Reseated the heat sink using artic silver 3

and my temperatures remain the same as before, using the thermaltake thermal compound.
on arctic silver's website though. it did say that it would take 200 hours to get settled and that in 200 hours it would drop 2-5 degrees

Quote
Originally posted by cwigster
Seriouly though, despite the heat spreaders and increased surface area you do still need some thermal paste dont you?
You *ALWAYS* need a slurry of fine, thermally conductive particles in a neutral liquid at an interface across which you want efficient thermal transfer.
A *VERY* thin layer of paste! You do not want to create a boundary between the two objects, just enough material to be forced into the microscopic (sic) gaps between the two surfaces in accordance with the fluid exclusion principle.
Arctic silver is good quality, well mixed product; but for most PC applications, you wont see a significant improvement over silicate based pastes unless you look on the scale of weeks of uptime. Its major advantage is that it is the only "brand name" thermal paste for hobbyists which is produced at a consistent quality level (very small particle size, low tendency to agglomerate or "clump" which will impair efficiency). Dont expect to see the "2-5" degree improvements they advertise, unless you are using a well ventilated case in a very cold environment. If the ambient temperature in your case is >30ºC, then you wont see massive improvements in stability. However, good quality thermal paste will stand you in very good stead when you approach 50ºC ambient temperature in the case, as at this point the thermal resistance of the boundary becomes very important again.
I have noted before, that I personally use an optical polishing slurry of aluminium oxide with carbon fines added as a heat transfer agent; I apply this in a very thin layer with a soft rubber spatula. The addition of a heat spreader means the new HSF for the Athlon64 is much higher force than older chips and, hence, many myths relating to heat transfer can be dispelled as the actual thermal conductivity of the paste is not as important as the size of its particles now... very small particles of a low thermal conductivity material will actually create a greater effect than larger particles of high thermal conductivity since contact forces with the new HSF design are much closer to ideal.
err!
jak

Similar Messages

Question about the heat sinks in these models

Hey all,
Can anyone tell me about the heat sinks used in these model laptops?
Here are my questions:
Are they made from pure copper?
What is inside the tubes that run between the processor covers and the fan? Is it just air? or something else?
Is the thermal paste that sticks to the processors toxic?
I'm not sure this is the right place to ask but thought i might as well try.
Solved!
Go to Solution.

you mean the entire T series range, or are you after information on a specific T model?
1) most of the parts are made of pure copper
2) there is a working fluid within heat pipe, which should either ethanol or acetone. The phase change from liquid to gaseous phase is what transports the heat away from CPU/GPU/motherboard chipsets.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat_pipe
3) thermal paste usually contains silicon and silver, it is not to be ingested as such.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermal_grease
Regards,
Jin Li
May this year, be the year of 'DO'!
I am a volunteer, and not a paid staff of Lenovo or Microsoft

The Macbook Pro 13 Retina late 2013 heat sink

Did any body notice the unusual design of heat sink in Macbook Pro 13 Retina late 2013? The heat sink only covers CPU but NOT the iris GPU. I wonder why is it designed like this? The GPU can generate much more heat under certain conditions.

Hi All, sorry about this post, I studied the architecture of Haswell chips, find out the small little one is the PCH not GPU.

How Should My Heat Sink Gel Look?

Hey all,
Is this enough heat sink gel for my fan fixture to board connection?
I was having problems with overheating while gaming, so I took my fan fixture out and cleaned it out real well. Doing this required me to pull it away from the board, and I'm not sure if I should have cleaned the heat sink gel off and re-applied some new.
Here are some photos of how the physical connection looks. I simply put it back and place, and here I am typing to you now:
http://rosshardy.com/files/images/IMG_2241.JPG
http://rosshardy.com/files/images/IMG_2240.JPG
Thanks!
Ross
P.S., my warrenty already expired (I'm aware that I would have voided it).

lead_org's idea of useing a credit-card or similar tool to spread the compound is a good idea.
My idea of iceing on a cake was a bit vague I suppose. The point was an even thin layer, liberally applied to fill the neccesary imperfections, yet thin enough to not be wasteful.
This excerpt from the Wikipedia artical on "Thermal Grease" may enlighten things a bit for all in question. There's more for those technically interested on the Wikipedia web site; referrenced via the link above, but I think the notes below should suffice enough info for the average person.
Purpose
Thermal grease is primarily used in the electronics and computer industries to assist a heatsink to draw heat away from a semiconductor component such as an integrated circuit or transistor.
Thermally conductive paste improves the efficiency of a heatsink by filling air gaps that occur when the irregular surface of a heat generating component is pressed against the irregular surface of a heatsink, air being approximately 8000 times less efficient at conducting heat (see Thermal conductivity) than, for example, aluminium, a common heatsink material.[2] Surface imperfections inherently arise from limitations in manufacturing technology and range in size from visible and tactile flaws such as machining marks or casting irregularities to sub-microscopic ones not visible to the naked eye.
As such, both the thermal conductivity and the "conformability" (i.e., the ability of the material to conform to irregular surfaces) are the important characteristics of thermal grease.
Both high power handling transistors, like those in a conventional audio amplifier, and high speed integrated circuits, such as the central processing unit (CPU) of a personal computer, generate sufficient heat to require the use of thermal grease in addition to the heatsink. High temperatures cause semiconductors to change their switching properties to the point of failure while CPU power dissipation overheating causes logic errors as heat raises electrical resistance on the multi-nanometer wide circuits of the CPU core.[3]
Applying and removing
Computer processor heatsinks utilize a variety of designs to promote better thermal transfer between components. Flat and smooth surfaces may use a small line method to apply material, and exposed heat-pipe surfaces will be best prepared with multiple lines.[4]
Because thermal grease's thermal conductivity is poorer than the metals they couple, it is important to use no more than is necessary to exclude air gaps. Excess grease separating the metal surfaces further will only degrade conductivity, increasing the chances of overheating. It should also be noted that silver-based thermal grease can also be slightly electrically conductive. If excess were to flow onto the circuits, it could cause a short circuit.
The preferred way to remove typical silicone oil-based thermal grease from a component or heat sink is by using isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol). If none is available, pure acetone is also a valid method of removal. There are also purpose made cleaners for removing and purifying the surfaces of the contacts.
HTH.....
Regards,
Visible_Spirit

Need clarification on exact size/amount of Artic Silver to apply on AMD64 3000+

I am installing the OEM HSF on my AMD64 3000+ winchester CPU using Artic Silver and I need a bit of clarification about the size/amount of the Artic Silver blob that I need to put on the CPU heat spreader.
EDIT - I'm reading the Artic Silver instructions right now from the website:
Quote
Only a small amount of Arctic Silver is needed
P4- About the size of an uncooked grain of short-grain white rice or 2/3 of a BB.
Athlon64- About the size of one and a half uncooked grains of short-grain white rice or 3/4 of a BB.
Could someone give me a diameter in millimetres (mm) or something? I'll go look for some rice in the house, but anyways......lol... :P
For clarification, I want to be sure I put the proper amount of AS on the heat spreader. I don't really know how big a BB is exactly. Is a BB a ball bearing or a "BB" used in bb guns? I'm guessing the size I should use is around 3 or 4 mm? Could someone clarify this for me before I go ahead?
How much AS should I apply to the heat spreader? How big should the round blob of AS be?
thanx,

Ok, but using a peice of paper may introduce dust, lint or paper particles. They don't even say to spread the AS compound around at all, they just say:
Quote
9. On an Intel P4 or Athlon64 type CPU with a large metal heat spreader, put a small amount of Arctic Silver onto the center of the heat spreader as shown in the photo.
Only a small amount of Arctic Silver is needed
P4- About the size of an uncooked grain of short-grain white rice or 2/3 of a BB.
Athlon64- About the size of one and a half uncooked grains of short-grain white rice or 3/4 of a BB.
10. RECHECK to make sure no foreign contaminants are present on either the bottom of the heatsink or the top of the CPU core. Mount the heatsink on the CPU per the heatsink's instructions. Be sure to lower the heatsink straight down onto the CPU.
Once the heatsink is properly mounted, grasp the heatsink and very gently twist it slightly clockwise and counterclockwise one time each if possible. (Just one or two degrees or so.)
Please note that some heatsinks cannot be twisted once mounted.
Our testing has shown that this method minimizes the possibility of air bubbles and voids in the thermal interface between the heat spreader and the heatsink. Since the vast majority of the heat from the core travels directly through the heat spreader, it is more important to have a good interface directly above the actual CPU core than it is to have the heat spreader covered with compound from corner to corner.
So they say to put a little tiny blob on there and just attach the heatsink right on there. I am guessing that the attaching of the heatsink does the work of spreading the compound and avoids voids..lol..if you excuse the pun.

Best cleaning steps for g4 processor and heat sink?

I just pick up a dual 800 quicksilver cpu. What is the least expensive/best way to clean the die surfaces as well as the heat sink surfaces? Also does anyone know a link showing stable higher than originally rated speeds?

Hi pheidius-
The surface description is odd- I would expect it to be smooth (as all heatsink surfaces I have seen).
You may be correct on the thermal pad. It would be the only logical explanation..... I've never really "dissected" a thermal pad before- just scraped them off and tossed 'em.
If it is a thermal pad, you may have clearance problems with just thermal compound. This is, of course, dependant on the thickness of the previous pad......Just check the heatsink and it's contact on the processor after you have finished cleaning the thermal pad from the heatsink. It should be obvious if there will be clearance problems.
Recommended removal proceedure for a thermal pad is to use a plastic card (like a credit card) or a plastic putty knife.
When replacing thermal pads, after the old is completely removed, the heatsink surface needs to be heated until hot to the touch (use a heat gun), and then apply the new pad, pushing the pad on firmly and evenly.
Note: When using thermal pads, wait until the heatsink and pad are cool before removing the protective paper and installing on the processors.
If you end up using thermal compound, carefully apply the compound. Getting sloppy, and applying too much, especially with Arctic Silver, can cause problems. The compound is not just thermally conductive.......it is also electrically conductive.
Back to the overclocking question- This article may be of interest.

MSI R6950 Twin Frozr III Power Edition – Replacement Heat Sink?

Hello,
Does anyone know of a good 3rd party heat sink that will definitely fit this non reference card? We all know that manufactures such has Artic, Thermalright and Prolimatech make such heat sinks, but of course they are for reference cards. I'm sure you can understand that I don't want to make any expensive mistakes!
Thanks,
Krutish.

Thanks for the reply flobelix.
My main concern was the amount of decibels this card produced when pushed, not its thermal properties. Under high stress the card would peak at 80-85c with a fan speed of anywhere around 80-100%. Normal gaming temps would be around 65c-75c depending on game, or gaming environment, with matching fan speeds. That is why I was looking for a replacement, the temps were within the manufactures tolerances, even if a little high, but the db's were well outside of mine!
However, the situation as changed somewhat. While messing around inside the case trying to improve airflow I accidentally touched the heat-sink assembly, and upon doing so the fan instantly roared to 100% and the temps started to shoot up. I wiggled the assembly again and the fan and temps dropped back! So it seemed like the heat-sink was lose! I removed the card and tightened the screws a little, this solved the problem in regards to the temp/fan shooting up, but the temps were still high!
The next step was to completely remove the heat-sink, give it a good clean and replace the thermal compound in the hope that this would solve the noise/heat problem. It was at this point that I spotted the problem! The GPU was absolutely caked in thermal compound, so much so that all of the resistors around the GPU were also covered in thermal grease, (Don't these guys know less is better?) good job they hadn't used a metal based thermal compound, that could have wrecked the card!
Anyway, I removed the mess and used TIM-clean to dissolve what was left and finished the clean up with isopropanol. I applied a small amount of compound, replaced the heat-sink and Bobs your uncle! Max loads so far, GPU 64c – Fan speed 55%... That I can live with!
So there you have it, this card as been noisy and running hot from the day I brought it, but I didn’t know any better, I've never seen or heard a MSI R6950 in action before, now I have!
Made In China. (Sad Face)
Krutish
Oh almost forgot... i heard off Artic, they recommend the Twin Turbo II, Xtreme II or the Xtreme III for this card!

How to make 260 gtx 55nm VRM custom heat sink

Warning: This will void your warranty
The caveat above added by Mike, Forum Administrator
How to Create a Custom 260 GTX 55nm VRM Heat Sink
Introduction: This guide was created to show how you can make a custom VRM heat sink from the stock heat sink to be used with an aftermarket cooler.
Reason: Many aftermarket companies, such as Thermalright and Arctic, fail to provide a good VRM heat sink for the 55nm 200 series GTX’s. The solution often involves poorly sticking thermal tape or no solution at all, such as the Arctic cooler, which states it’s ok to leave the 260 GTX 55nm VRM chips uncovered. To leave the VRM chipset uncovered maybe ok for stock clocked cards but what about an over clocked card or an enthusiast trying to push the performance envelope? That is after all, what these aftermarket cooling solutions are all about; especially the Arctic cooler which can cool up to 250 watts! Fortunately the solution is very easy and should take you no more than 10 to 15 minutes to address.
Use: To create a custom made VRM heat sink to be used with an aftermarket cooling solution such as the Arctic cooler and Thermalright cooler.
Tools:
Dremel, with metal cutting wheel and sanding wheel.
Thermal Pads, which you can buy in sheets from any performance pc store and should be 1.0 mm in thickness.
Philips Screw Driver, very small size would be ideal.
Before we begin I’d like to remind you that removing or tampering with the stock heat sink will more than likely void your warranty. This guide was also constructed assuming an aftermarket cooler will be installed. The card used in this guide is a MSI 260 GTX 55nm with reference PCB design (REV 1) but will also work with other 200 series GTX cards. When working on any electronic device, always make sure you are well grounded!!!
Step 1: Remove the screws with the springs only from the back side of the graphics card as shown in figure 1A. There is a total of 13 spring screws that need to be removed. Check to make sure that your card does not have two small additional securing screws which are located on the exhaust side of your graphics card with your DVI ports. If your card does contain these additional screws, remove them before continuing on to step 2.
Step 2: Gently work the card from the heat sink. NOTE: Do NOT force or pry heavily, you will damage your card. It may take a little caressing depending on how much poor quality thermal putty was used from the manufacturer.
Step 3: Remove the fan power connector from the fan power port as shown in figure 2A.
Step 4: Remove and discard all the old thermal pads. You should never re-use thermal pads and especially not the low quality manufacturer ones! NOTE: keep in mind the location of the VRM thermal pads since you will be making replacements.
Step 5: Clean off the voltage regulator chips with a tissue or with a soft eraser as instructed by Arctic. Personally I use a tissue very lightly dipped in alcohol to clean the surface of the chips. The voltage regulator chips for the 260 GTX 55nm are shown in figure 3A. NOTE: I will not be covering the cleaning of the GPU or Ram since it does not pertain to the VRM heat sink.
Step 6: Flip the heat sink so you are looking at the bottom where the thermal pads were attached. There are 6 very little screws which need to be removed from the assembly. Figure 4A shows the location of the screws attaching the plastic shroud assembly. Once they are removed gently pry the plastic shroud off and set it aside.
Step 7: Now turn the heat sink over and remove the 4 black screws from the top side of the heat sink. The fan should come off freely and set that aside as well. Your heat sink should look like figure 5A.
Step 8: Now we are ready to begin cutting the stock heat sink. With a sharpie draw a black as shown in figure 6A. This will give you a marker to follow when cutting.
Step 9: Attach the metal cutting wheel to the dremel and begin cutting across the black line. Danger: ALWAYS wear eye protection when cutting a metal object or any object. The metal is very soft and not much force is needed to cut it. Try not to damage the mounting holes when cutting (figure 6A). You may need to lightly sand the cut edge depending on how rough or jagged it is after cutting. When you’re done you should have a piece as shown in figure 7A. This will be your VRM heat sink. Important: MAKE SURE you clean the heat sink well and remove all metal particles. Also allow the heat sink to dry well before installing!!
Step 10: Next cut the new thermal pads to the shape of your VRM chips. It should look like figure 8A when you are finished.
Step 11: Gently place the heat sink into place and attach the screws. When you are done it should look like figure 9A.
Congratulations on your custom made VRM heat sink. The great thing is that it never has the risk of falling off, such as thermal taped ones, and can be removed and installed as many times as you wish. It also does not contain thermal adhesives which also do not facilitate removal as well. The stock spring screws will also insure secure contact between the VRM chips and the sink. The custom heat sink comes with nicely built in fins and much better cooling performance then individual dinky VRM heat sinks provided from the Arctic or Thermalright coolers.
p.s. It is possible to put old heat sink back on the card since each section has its own mounting screws but I would not recommend this unless absolutely necessary.

I'm running a corsair 750 watt PSU
Q660
Gigabyte g31 motherboard
1TB WD Hard drive
OCZ 1066mhz of ram
And I recently swapped the lighting with a gtx 260 and see what would happen in the same system. The GTX260 ran games smoothly, and would run furmark fine with the newest nvidia drivers. Swap back the gtx 275 lightning, and games are really slow and choppy especially when you add any kind of AA. The FPS is literally cut in half when I switched to the msi gtx 275. I think it's safe to say that the GTX275 is defective.

Heat Sink on MacBook Pro (mid 2012)

I recently acquired a mid-2012 MacBook Pro that is in need of repair. The device was advertised by the seller as needing repair, and I wanted to experiment in repairing such a problem.
The MBP suffered the symptoms of a failed logic board - no power, LEDs don't light up on either the side of the Mac or the MagSafe Adapter. Per the tutorial on Ifixit.com, I took a look inside the laptop and was able to safely remove the logic board. As I examined the heat sink and the thermal paste connecting it to the processor, I found that the paste had completely dried up. In other words, as I completed part 3 of Step 27 ("Carefully remove the heat sink from the processor."), the heat sink could be removed immediately after I unscrewed it from the logic board - no need to use the spudger to loosen the paste. While examining the interior, the battery also seemed to have signs of wear (the screw tab closest to the optical drive appears cracked); no damage/leakage of battery cells detected.
What are my options at this point? Will it be worth it if I try to clean the old paste from the heat sink & processor, then reapply as instructed (on ifixit.com or other reputable DIY repair sites)? Or, because the battery is slightly damaged in addition to the lack of processor-to-heat sink connectivity, would it be easier/better in the long run to make an appointment at my nearest Apple Store for a Genius Bar consultation?
Thanks for any advice & comments!

Re: Heat Sink on MacBook Pro (mid 2012)
created by PlotinusVeritas in MacBook Pro - View the full discussion
This solved my question This helped me
And why again are you worried about re-applying thermal paste to the heat sink to CPU on logic, ...since youve already indicated the logic board is fried....?
I assume you got a new logic and are asking about grabbing some white thermal paste off Ebay.....or?
... or I'm basically seeking the opinions of more experienced members of the Community (such as yourself ) that can verify my attempt to personally fix the device are not worth it, and are better left to Apple's Geniuses.
Actually, I haven't gotten a new logic board yet. More or less, I was taking it apart for inspectional purposes only. I wasn't intending to remove the heat sink, but the thermal paste was already worn out. I am not sure if the logic board is fried, though after examining the whole laptop some more, the previous owner may have tried to do some fixing/upgrading and failed (foam missing, a bracket for the HDD missing also). I was examining the logic board to determine if there have been any liquid damages to the machine - none found, to the best of my knowledge.

Bluetooth prevents MacBook from sleeping: related to heat sink?

I recently purchased a used MacBook core duo with a fried hard drive. I replaced the hard drive with a drive built on another machine with Snow Leopard already installed, upgraded the Ram, and everything ran well...except that the MacBook refused to sleep. I was shutting it down at night and restarting when I needed to use it. One day I started up to the blue screen -- ran disk utility off another computer, tried a PRAM reset, etc, nothing. I took it to the Apple store and they ran a diagnostic that showed a heat sink error, but the archive and install of Snow Leopard worked and restored everything.
Since then I did some troubleshooting and think the sleep issue is related to the bluetooth -- but disabling bluetooth only helped some of the time. It seems the chip heats up and then I have the sleep issue once again. I know there are threads on Apple Discussions about removing the bluetooth chip, which I could do, but I'm concerned that all these problems might somehow be related to the heat sink. Any ideas? I don't really want a logicboard failure down the road...

IrishImmirage wrote:
Any ideas?
Shut it down instead of sleeping. That's one of the dangers of buying a used machine, especially a used Mac. Why would someone want to sell their Mac unless it was broken and they didn't get the extended warranty.
My 1st generation MacBook has a similar problem. I didn't notice it until after the 3 year warranty had expired. Maybe I should sell it

Cleaning heat sink on Macbook Pro Retina after liquid spill... HELP!

Hello all...
My wonderful boyfriend spilled about 3-4 tablespoons of orange juice on my Macbook Pro Retina (15in) on Thursday. Right over the left speaker and onto the ESC, ~, brightness up and down, 1, 2, 3, TAB, Q, W, Caps Lock, and A key. It also dripped down and got into the vent. I immediately (like within 1 second) grabbed it and turned it upside down, and wiped it up while holding it upside down. I then turned it off and held it upside down for some time, and let it sit open and off after that. I turned it back on the next day and had no apparent issues. (However today some of the keys have been "crunchy", so I think I better clean them...)
I couldn't get it to the Apple store until yesterday because of Hurricane Sandy and not having power or anything. I had the genius check it out. He could only take off the back without having to charge me anything and he said that none of the liquid sensors were tripped in the back of the computer but that there was some dried up orange juice in the heat sink (but apparently not really anywhere else which he said makes me the luckiest person in the world). He took a photo on his phone and showed me... just some residue and orange juice that looked "dried up" in like 5 or 6 of the vents. He said that I could try to clean it myslf with alchohol wipes and a toothpick at my own risk. But I am very nervous as I am not exactly tech savvy... I watched videos on how to take the back off, but the part about disconnecting the battery and all gets me nervous. My question is, do I have to disconnect the battery to just gently clean up the heat sink with a little toothpick and alchohol wipes? Do I have to ground myself? What do I do?
Also, how necessary do you think it is to even clean it up? Could the heat sink need to be replaced in the future from this? Is it really a big deal? I'm looking for honest answers, since I felt like the genuis guy had too much liabality to say anything to me about anything.
Unrelated, what are the chances that liquid got through the keyboard to anything more sensitive to liquid? The genius couldnt really give me an answer. I have noticed just as I am typing now that sometimes it seems that the cursor of where I am typing will just jump back to the end of the previous line when I hit the Caps Lock key... it's very strange and I'm getting agita just thinking about it. Could that be a problem with just my keys getting stuck somewhere or a bigger problem with hardware being damaged... help and THANK YOU!

When i start any game the CPU goes up to 90° in 2 minutes and the computer shutdown after at least 5 min.
I found a solution. after a lot of research i checked that my fans are working on the minimum means at 2000 rpm even when the games are on. so i install it a software called smcFancontrol that u can control ur fan speed and i make it up to 4000 pm (you can do it with iStat menu too) and i tested my computer. I Have been playing on my macbook pro since this morning and there is no problem of overheat or shutdown.
Is it normal that we need to change the fan configuration or control to play a game that was working fine before.?
for cooling my machine i have a mStand Rain design http://www.raindesigninc.com/pic_high%20res/mstand_macbookpro_keyboard_perspecti ve_unibody.jpg

Pismo CPU upgrades/heat sink

Does anyone know if the 400 mhz heatsink and 500 mhz heatsink are interchangeable?
PowerMac G4 MDD 1.25 Ghz, PowerBook G3 Pismo 400, Newton 2100, iPod Photo 30 gb Mac OS X (10.3.9)

Hi Gerry:
Are you replacing just the heat sink, or the entire processor daughter-card? If the heat sink and tube only, yes, they are interchangeable. Be sure you apply a thin, even layer of thermal compound on the processor after removal of the old heat sink and before installation of the new.
Good luck.
cornelius
Message was edited by: cornelius

Disconnect battery just to clean heat sink?

I had a minor liquid spill on my retina macbook pro. Took it to apple, genius said everything "appeared" fine except for some residue on the heat sink (it was orange juice). He took a pic on his phone and it showed some dried up orange juice in like 5-6 of the vents. He said I could try to clean it myself with alchohol wipes and toothpicks.
Here is my question - do I need to disconnect the battery or do anything after I open the back, but before I clean the heat sink? I am nervous about doing this as it is, and I am afraid of messing something up.

I thought that corrosion would be a big problem, and the genius told me that the heat sink is made from a coated aluminium and can't corrode... was he wrong?
I am really tight on money (owning a rMBP is way out of my means but I saved up for a long time...) and don't want to have to spend the money to have someone else clean it if it's not really important to the operation or life of the computer or if it's something I can do myself.
Thanks for your input so far!

Heat sink part # for Dual 1 GIg QUicksilver . . .

Is this a correct heat sink # ? 805-3096 B ?
(Thought it was 805-3706)
Anyone?

Thats the official part number of the kit including the springs, but the heat sinks also have a white tag on the bottom with a part number.
I have one I pulled from a dual 1gig QS and it reads 805-3706 (white tag)
Any clues as to the these white tags with numbers on the bottoms of the heat sinks?

Replace heat sink or fan (or both)?

Would replacing the heat sink or fan (or both) help to to reduce the temperature of a really warm powerbook or is it hopeless?

never seen "temperature guidelines" in any sources - either Apple service manuals ot otherwise.
"official position" is that laptop is supposed to run hot sometimes.
as a guess, replacing fan/heatsink is probably not worthwhile, especially since hot temps could be caused by different components, such as hard drive, RAM, AirPort card etc.

Reseated the heat sink using artic silver 3

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for