Best Quality import when editing with a DVD master?

I have been on a project, that is nearing online, that has a large amount of footage that I have had to import off of DVD. I have been using Streamclip's "Apple Motion Jpeg A" setting at 100% when I have converted files to QT. Anybody know the best way to get this material off DVD and into QT at the best quality? The footage is so bad, that it may not make a difference, but I thought I would try. Anybody use any treatment tricks when working with old, home movie type footage, to "spruce it up" and help it not stand out so much?
Thanks for your input.

The question would be; is the footage bad only because it is from heavily compressed DVD-Video? Or is it bad because it's old home movie footage? Or a combination of the two.
Since it is old home video footage, I'd suspect a fairly low quality camcorder was used. If that's the case, I'd convert the footage to the Apple DV/DVCPro codec using MPEG Streamclip. Or simply capture the footage through a DV device while playing the disc in a DVD player.
Once it's on your system, try using the 3-Way Color Corrector filter to enhance the contrast and control the chroma levels.
-DH

Similar Messages

Best quality import from VHS

I'm importing some VHS tapes into iMovie09 using an ADVC-55 and then MPEGstreamclip to break the project into small clips. However, I'm new to MPEGstreamclip and want to use the best quality settings for the data transfer. Rather than spending many hours trying different strategies, can anyone recommend what settings will, in general, give the best quality?
The tapes, and output DVD, are PAL.
Thanks for suggestions and tips.

As a new user, what is the best channel for obtaining iMovie 06, given that it's the best method for maintaining quality?
I understand your frustration. Actually, once you get the work flow down, it is pretty easy. I think it's fairly well established that iMovie 06 will give you better quality with DV video to make a DVD.
Obviously, it seems a little complicated to have 2 versions of iMovie. I can't think of any other cases where I have 2 versions of the same program. However, in the case of iMovie, iMovie 06 and iMovie 09 are vastly different.
I use both of these iMovies on a regular basis. But on the project that you are describing, I would definitely use iMovie 06 for better quality. Someday, when you're dealing with high definition and are sharing these videos on the internet, you may find iMovie 09 to your liking.
I found iMovie 06 to be very intuitive and easy to learn. My video editing goes back to the film days, so I find iMovie 06 quite natural to me.
If you buy the iLife 06 disk, only install iMovie 06 from it. iMovie 06 will not delete anything and it works fine with iDVD 09.
Basically, connect your camera and import into iMovie 06, then share to iDVD 09. Do a 5 or 10 minute project first to establish your work flow. Do this a few times and you can zip along thru the remaining work.
You can get iMovie 06 in a number of ways. You cannot download it FROM APPLE any longer (it was free for a time). You can also find iMovie 06 on the iLife 06 install disc. You can buy iLife 06 on Amazon or eBay.
But be prepared to pay about double the cost of iLife 09 (but well worth every penny). Seller's are becoming aware of its value.

Version Set is not created when editing with Photoshop CS4?

Last week I was working in PSE7 and opening files into PS CS4 for editing. I open the files by clicking the Open with link and choose Photoshop. I edited several dozen photos and when I closed them from PS CS4 Version Sets were created in PSE7 like they should be. At some point that stopped happening. Now when I do as before and open the files into PS CS4, edit them, and then close them the Version Set is not being created in PSE7. I look in the folder containing the files and the file has a new modified date but it still has the same file name instead of being saved with the - edited name as before. Does anyone know why the version sets are no longer being created when editing with PS CS4? I can edit the files with the PSE7 editor and the version sets are created as they should be. Thanks!

Okay so tha there is no misunderstanding here is exactly what I'm doing. From the PSE7 Organizer I select a photo (file name Tetons & Jenny Lake 026.jpg) and click the Fix tab. I then click More Options and select Photoshop. The photo opens in into PS CS4. I make my edits click the x on the tab to close the image and I'm asked "Save changes to the Adobe Photoshop document "Tetons & Jenny Lake 026_edited-1.jpg" before closing?" I click Yes then click OK to save the image at maximum quality. I go back to the PSE 7 Organizer and there is no version set. I check the folder the original image was in and see the original file Tetons & Jenny Lake 026.jpg with a new modified date and time. I can even choose Save As from PS CS4 and it asks me if I want to overwrite Tetons & Jenny Lake 026_edited-1.jpg and I select Yes, but I get the exact same results. Thanks!

HT4293 i am trying to use dual monitors when editing with FCPX. I have a macbook pro and an apple cinema display monitor. I have connected them and opened Fcpx but the option to use second monitor is not active! what do i do ? please help going bonkers!

i am trying to use dual monitors when editing with FCPX. I have a macbook pro and an apple cinema display monitor. I have connected them and opened Fcpx but the option to use second monitor is not active! what do i do ? please help going bonkers!

<http://support.apple.com/kb/HT5891>
You can use USB for the Apple trackpad.
<http://www.mobeetechnology.com/the-power-bar.html>

What should your sequence settings be when editing with H264 in CC?

I keep getting a yellow bar when editing with H264 no matter what I make my settings as. Is there a way to fix this?

Hi jdib,
That's pretty normal for DSLR footage. Check out this article: http://blogs.adobe.com/premierepro/2011/02/red-yellow-and-green-render-bars.html
Thanks,
Kevin

Best Quality Preset/setting for 16:9 DVD

What do you think is the best quality preset for a DVD to be played at today´s LCD, Plasma or LED TVs? Actual film has been shot with a Panasonic DVX 100BE in 16:9 without black borders, Edited in Pr 5.5.

function(){return A.apply(null,[this].concat($A(arguments)))}
function(){return A.apply(null,[this].concat($A(arguments)))}Oslomela wrote:
What do you think is the best quality preset for a DVD to be played at today´s LCD, Plasma or LED TVs? Actual film has been shot with a Panasonic DVX 100BE in 16:9 without black borders, Edited in Pr 5.5.
If you want to play your dvd on a big HD tv you need a dvd-player with upscaler otherwise it will look awful.
Use DL or export your timeline directly to mpeg2-dvd.

Exporting the film in best quality for further editing

I am about to finish a 52-minute long documentary in Final Cu Express. I've been editing in HD, using Apple Intermediate Codec1080i50.
Part of the project files and render files are in an external G-Raid and other part are on my Macbook pro hard drive, Since I will be traveling, I would like to be careful and minimize the risk of something happening either to the G-Raid or to my Mac, therefore, I want to export the film as it is, although in the future I still might need to work on it - do some more final editing and definitely do the subtitles in DVD Pro (currently I don't have the DVD Pro). My question is whether I should be using export - quick time movie or quick time conversion - and what the settings would be for the best quality product that could be used in documentary film screenings and possibly shown on TV? Or how should I go about saving the project? Right now the project file only has references to the files, right, not the files themselves and if something happens I might lose it all...
Thanks for the help!

QuickTime Movie. Forget the render filed, they seldom reconnect properly; it's usually better just to re-render. Keep your G-RAID and make sure it is backed up together with your project.

Major Quality loss when editing in Iphoto 09

Hi,
I am a new user to Imac and Iphoto and I saw that when I edit an Image in Iphoto, I loose a lot of my original data.
I have found that I can return to the original picture, but I wish to edit (especially using the CROP function) then print the Image on 20x30 cm size and therefore I need all the quality I can get.
When I Crop either JPEG or .RAW formatted images (for example 10 MBytes in size) even if I select the COMPLETE image, I am left with only 4 or 5 Mbytes of data.
It gets much worse when I really Crop a part of the picture.
A 12 Mega pixel photo should supply sufficient data to cover a complete wall, but for some reason a lot of quality is lost when I use any of the editing features.
Am I doing something wrong ?
Should I change any of the settings ?
Thanks for your advice

Welcome to the Apple Discussions.
the only difference is that Iphoto took my quality !!
Are you basing the "quality" loss on visual appearance of the photo or on the resulting size of the jpeg file? If it's the latter that is really not an accurate method. True, some information is lost with a jpeg edit and save (only the first edit in iPhoto results in additional jpeg compression) but, in my experience, you would have to print a VERY large print before seeing any noticeable image degradation. I've compressed jpegs as high as 60%, i.e. a quality setting of 40, and for most all uses up to 5x7 prints haven't seen noticeable image degradation. However, I realize image quality is subjective and open to individual interpretation.
So unless you are visibly seeing image degradation I wouldn't worry about the file size reduction, especially in iPhoto as it's compressed only once no matter how many edits are made and saved. Apple uses a compression algorithm that gives the best image quality for the amount of compression it uses.
The following is from the Usernet FAQ site article "JPEG image compression FAQ, part 1/2':
Subject: [4] How well does JPEG compress images?
Very well indeed, when working with its intended type of image (photographs and suchlike). For full-color images, the uncompressed data is normally 24 bits/pixel. The best known lossless compression methods can compress such data about 2:1 on average. JPEG can typically achieve 10:1 to 20:1 compression without visible loss, bringing the effective storage requirement down to 1 to 2 bits/pixel. 30:1 to 50:1 compression is possible with small to moderate defects, while for very-low-quality purposes such as previews or archive indexes, 100:1 compression is quite feasible. An image compressed 100:1 with JPEG takes up the same space as a full-color one-tenth-scale thumbnail image, yet it retains much more detail than such a thumbnail.
Read more: http://www.faqs.org/faqs/jpeg-faq/part1/#ixzz0UKB59gND
Message was edited by: Old Toad

LR 1.3.1 auto stacks photos when editing with Photoshop

Hi,
No matter what I do I can't stop Lightroom 1.3.1 from automatically importanting the TIFF I creat when I perform a "edit with Photoshp CS3" on any of my RAW files. This never used to be a problem the auto update updated my Lightroom to the latest release a couple months ago. This sounds like a regression bug to me. I searched the forum before I submitted this, but I don't see anybody else with this issue.
Mike

When I export to Photoshop, then save, I have a PSD file stacked with my raw file. But when I am in Library, filtering my collection by the Metadata Browser by Date (for one specific day), and then I select by star rating, I have these two separate images, that won't "stack" together. And all the stacking commands are greyed out. Only when I am viewing my thousands of images (un "filtered") do the stacking commands seem to work. I can't find anything about this in the help. I only want to see the #1 image from each stack!
Thanks.
Steven

Quality reduction when sharing with iDVD

Hi Everyone
I'm new to iMovie 11. This week I made my first short movie with a 720HD camera and I'm very pleased with the quality. When I watch it on my iMac it's great and when I share it with iTunes and watch it on my home TV, using AppleTV, the picture is great as well. However, when I share it using iDVD there is a fall off in video quality (with blocky text in title sequences) as I play the disc back through my DVD player and TV. I've tried playing the disc back through a friend's DVD player and TV, but things are no better.
Is this normal when sharing through iDVD or is there a setting I've overlooked?

Hi
As You see there are much to this - at least three levels as I get it
1. DVD-standard 480i
2. How it moves from iMovie to iDVD - Share to Media Browser and as Large
3. Choise of video editor as
iMovie'08 or 09 or 11 - are not tools of choise as they discard every second line resulting in 240i quality
I use
• iMovie up to HD6 or
• FinalCut any version
as they deliver 480i not losing anything.
Use High quality DVD - I use Verbatim DVD-R
Burn at slower speed - I use x4 - to get less burn errors
makes the DVD even better (plays on more Players)
Yours Bengt W

Quality degradation when editing a WMV file

I have a long duration WMV file (more than one hour) that I want to edit, with the goal of creating multiple files that can be uploaded to YouTube. The file is recording of a PowerPoint presentation with voiceover. It was delivered live on Webex (Cisco's online meeting service), recorded using Webex's built-in recording, then converted from their proprietary format (file extension .ARF) to WMV using the converter utility that Webex provides.
The resulting WMV is quite large (approx 150 MB) and quite sharp/clear to watch/listen when played in the Windows media player.
As stated above, I want to edit the video into chunks that are 15 minutes or shorter, and post to YouTube.
I am using Adobe Premiere Elements v. 8.
So, I do my editing, resulting in content that is less than 15 minutes. I go to the Share tab, click on Personal Computer as the type of share, and choose Windows Media. The file renders. What results is a new WMV that, when played in the Windows media player, has just awful visual quality - the smaller text in the PowerPoint cannot even be read, whereas it was quite easy to read in the original WMV recording.
Any ideas how I can get output that is as good as my original recording?
Is it really necessary to "re-render" the project, since I am going from WMV to WMV? Can't I just snip/delete to get the content that I want to keep, without rendering?

I am still struggling to get a slide show of decent clarity. Am looking at the article you mentioned - http://forums.adobe.com/thread/450798?tstart=0 – but it raises a number of questions for me.
I’m working on Windows Vista with Adobe Premiere Elements v. 10 (I have upgraded). I also have Adobe Photoshop CS3.
You write “This workflow is for NTSC 4:3 720x480 with a PAR (Pixel Aspect Ratio) of 0.9. If your Project’s Presets are different, use those specs to resize to.”
That’s a good place to start. The slides I am working with are TIF images extracted from PowerPoint and saved at 300 DPI. Their default size is 3070 x 2302, but I can open them in Photoshop and resize.
My goal is to create a slide show for uploading to YouTube. I have already extracted the audio as an AAC file and will add that in.
Given my goal and the materials I am starting with, what are the ideal pre-sets to choose when I begin the project?
Or, how do I choose the Project Presets that you use? The default project settings (shown in the dialogue box where I give my project a name and storage location) appear to be NTSC-AVCHD-AVCHD LITE 720p24. If I click the “Change settings” button I am shown a number of choices (for example, the sub-categories within NTSC are AVCHD, DSLR, DV, FLIP, Hard disk flash memory camcorders, and HDV. Which matches the “NTSC 4:3 720x480 with a PAR (Pixel Aspect Ratio) of 0.9” that you use?
4:3 refers to the image’s aspect ratio, correct? I did not look at every Project Preset that is offered, but in the ones I did look at, I did not see a 4:3 aspect ratio specified…
Can you clarify?

Keyword problems when editing with CS6

In LR 4.2 and 4.3, when I edit with photoshop and use lightroom corrections, LR creates a new file. I edit it in CS6 and save and close. Back in LR, the file is there, the proper keywords are highlighted and there, but LR cannot find that file. In other words, LR does not recognize the photoshop keywords.
I am using Win 7 64. My catalog has less than 1,000 images. My master catalog has 25,000 with the same problem.
As I understand it, when you edit in Photoshop with LR corrections, LR creates a new file and PS takes in. PS sends info to LR when it is done. If I edit a photo selected with a keyword and I can only see that image, when I get back to LR the screen is grey and no image is found. I can find the photo in the folder.
My workaround is to delete the keyword and reenter. In a small database with few keywords, clunky. In the real world, very difficult.

I have been using lightroom since verison 1 (actually I owned the precursor, I forget the name).
Step by step
1. Select image. Add unique keyword. enter. Keyword is now in the keyword box and highlighted in recent keywords.
2. click on keyword to select all images with that keyword. Highlist the test image.
2. Right click the image.select "edit in ..." "Edit it in CS6..." Then "Edit a copy with lightroom adjustments" (edit a copy- same issue)
3. CS6 opens and the file selected is open. Convert to B&W (anything). Control -s to save. Control - w to close.
4. Goto lightrooom.. New edited image in the folder, but invisible to keyword. The number of images associated with that keyword gets larger by one.
In my system, the key step is step 2. If I add a keyword and edit from the folder everything is fine. If I have selected or filtered by keywords, the edited image does not index for that keyword.
Is this me? I guess my workaround now would be to edit images from the folder view/

Constant wait cursor when editing with LVOOP

I've searched around several times for any mention of this problem but have never found anything. It continues to drive me crazy so I figure I'd ask about it.
I have a decently sized project utilizing about 25 LVOOP classes in the hierarchy. Whenever I edit a VI within a class, every change I make causes a wait cursor for about a second or 2. This is not a long time, but when I'm in the middle of making something and trying to edit a VI rapidly, it gets extremely annoying to be blocked every couple seconds as I place, move, and wire objects.
I assume this has to do with compiling the VI, any callers, and doing something with the class, but is it common to block input while this takes place? Is there any remedy for this?
I'm developing on a 1 yr old Xeon system with a 10k rpm drive and 12GB of ram, it's definitely not an issue with my computer being slow.
Thanks

I am working on a large LVOOP project with 30 lvclasses. The only time I get the wait cursor is when I edit the type defs and select Apply Changes. I do not notice any delays when editing the VI's whether they are methods or plain old utilities.
In my hierarchy, I created inheritance by having lvlibs which also contain lvclasses. Most methods now access the superclass (well, that's what I call it.. the cluster that contains all classes).
Do you have access to another PC which has LV installed? If so, do you get the same behavior?

Poor quality video when I make a DVD

Hi,
I've been very disapointed when making DVDs from HD footage. I create a sequence in Premiere Pro CS5 and use the Dymnaic Link software to bring that sequence into Encore with out rendering it. The sharpness and clarity are fine on the original footage but as soon as I make it into a DVD the output is always less sharp and less defined. Now I understand it is reduced in definition when rendered for the DVD but if I buy a DVD and play it on a 65 inch high def TV it is almost as clear as a blue ray. The stuff I make doesn't even look good on a 25 inch TV:(.
Can any one help me figure out what I'm doing wrong?
thanx,
Mel

What are the recommended settings in Sorenson Squeeze 6.5 for making transcoded files for Encore CS 5 SD DVDs? Is this a good work around to the problem in this thread?
Also, anyone know why Squeeze has gone through multiple versions without being able to fix its Blu Ray encoding. A technician told me it was something to do with Encore, but that was it....

Why would my SD export be better quality when editing with SD instead of HD?

My footage is in HD 24p. I have found that if It set my sequence to DV 24, when I export to MPEG 2 I get a good quality video. However, when I edit the same footage using a HD sequence and export to MPG2, the file size is about the same, but the video is slighty blury. Any ideas why? I would think the quality would be better edting in HD instead of SD, when exporting to SD or MPG 2?

I filmed it in SD on my Sony HDV-AU1 camera. What is killing me is if I choose upper then the footage looks fine, but then what I have done is add some jpeg images that I created in photoshop on a PC. they are simple images of text that say "Round 1" or "Round 2" in between the fights. I have them spin into view using one of the transitions in FCP, but when I get it to dvd, they look horrible, echoy, just like the footage looked like before I changed it to upper field. So as it looks now, I can't have both look good i guess. This doesn't make sense to me!! It is incredibly frustrating especially since I'm out of money and almost out of time on this project (it has to be done by next week). I keep re-doing the project, re-building it, re-setting it in one type of sequence after another and it's not looking good at all. what am I doing wrong?

Best Quality import when editing with a DVD master?

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for