Best way to preserve protos

I would appreciate some opinions on how you preserve your pictures in I-Photo ?
Currently ---- I burn them to CD, but ---- the CD's will start to add up after awhile.... Do you have an external hard drive ? I have a Me account but ---- my bandwidth is not the greatest so it would take a long time to copy, plus when I sync... it will take a long time to sync.
Also --- my music on I-Tunes ---- to preserve them.
I'm thinking getting an external HD - but still looking for the best bet to save my goods - I know nothing is 100% but ----- ideas would be appreciated on how you preserve your photos, and I-tunes.
Thanks,
Bob

My Library lives on my iMac.
It’s Backed up to two external hard disks every day. These disks are permanently attached to the iMac. These back ups run automatically. One is done by Time Machine, one is a bootable back up done by SuperDuper
It’s also backed up to a portable hard disk when ever new photos are added. This hard disk lives in my car. For security, this disk is password protected. For this job I use DejaVu because it makes a simple back up that is clear and can be tested easily without doing an full restore.
I have a second off-site back up at a relative’s house across town. That’s updated every 3 or 4 months.
My Photos are backed up online. Personally I use SmugMug but there are many options including flickr. However, check the terms of your account carefully. While most sites have free uploading, you will often find that these uploads are limited in terms of the file size, or the bandwidth you can use per month. For access that allows you to upload full size pics with no restrictions you will need to pay.
Every couple of months I test the back ups to make sure they are working correctly. It’s very easy to mis-configure a back up application, and the only way to protect against that is to do a restore.
Regards
TD

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What is the best way to preserve my battery? Should I always have it connected to the charger when using it or should I use it and then recharge it?

What is the best way to preserve my MacBook Pro battery? Should I always have it connected to the charger when using it, or should I use it and then recharge it?

Don't worry about it:
http://macmost.com/dont-stress-about-batteries.html
If you want to condition it once a month, go ahead:
http://www.apple.com/batteries/notebooks.html

Best way to preserve movies

My iMovie files are taking up a lot of space on my computer. But I want to continue to make copies of them in the future. Can I save them in some kind of iDVD format to preserve quality, but consolidate space? If I export them to .DV format will they lose any quality? (I know .DV still takes up a lot of room)...
Thanks!

Hi s
Can I save them in some kind of iDVD format to preserve quality, but consolidate space? <</div>
No. Not if You want to cont. editing and keep full quality.
Best way (my opinion and strategy)
1. I keep ALL my original miniDV tapes .
2. When edited a movie I Export back to Camera and new tapes (some project
needs more than one tape)
3. If very important and may be of economical value. I buy an extra hard disk
FireWire + Mac OS Extended formatted. (NOT DOS/UNIX/FAT32/Mac OS Exchange)
Copy the full project to this and disconnect it for storing on bookshelf till
it will be of further interest.
4. One might copy to a set of DVD-disks but they easily exceeds 10 or even
more and will be a fragil way of storing a multi-part files on.
5. More modern way of storing on server or .Mac accounts is out of rang
for me.
Yours Bengt W

What is the best way to preserve your battery?

I'm new to macs and I would like to know the best way to prolong my battery life, is it better to keep it plugged in while you can and disconnect it only when necessary or is it better to let your battery run down then fully charge it again.

See Apple - Batteries and About Notebook Batteries
This is especially important:
Standard Maintenance
For proper maintenance of a lithium-based battery, it’s important to keep the electrons in it moving occasionally. Apple does not recommend leaving your portable plugged in all the time.
Apple recommends charging and discharging its battery at least once per month.

What's the best way to preserve battery life?

I know obviously make sure your backlight isn't always on and keep Wifi off, I've read www.apple.com/batteries throughout.
I'm talking about preserving the battery itself.
Like is it better to let the battery run all the way down before you recharge it or charge it as soon as it gets around 40-50% or every couple of days?
I have my blackberry which I charged every night regardless for months and months and now about a year later, the battery is basically crap and I'm lucky if I don't have to charge it every night now.
Same concept apply?

MrMarino wrote:
I know obviously make sure your backlight isn't always on and keep Wifi off, I've read www.apple.com/batteries throughout.
Yup, the backlight is the biggest battery drain.
I have my blackberry which I charged every night regardless for months and months and now about a year later, the battery is basically crap and I'm lucky if I don't have to charge it every night now.
Rechargeable batteries don't last forever. I supervise a cell phone repair department. We generally tell customers that, with average use, a battery will last about a year. Heavy users, it can be six months. Many Blackberrys have big screens, too. Over time, no matter what you do, a rechargeable battery will lose capacity and eventually, not hold a charge. At least your Blackberry has a user replaceable battery and you can pick one up for less than $40 dollars!
Best of luck.

What is the best way to preserve page numbers from InDesign to EPUB?

I have a project where the source files are InDesign based - the final step before the product goes to print. We want to bring this content to reflowable EPUB format, but we need to keep the print page numbers in order to support citations.
Has anyone faced this type of challenge previously, and what was the approach pursued? While an InDesign 2014 export to EPUB Fixed will preserve the page numbers, there will be a lot of cleanup required to make these files reflowable again.
Andre

Hi Douglas,
I agree that the common practice of removing the page numbers works with regards to trade content (fiction, non-fiction, magazines, etc) where pages generally are to communicate how far you have 'travelled' in a particular title. With reference works, however, this particular type of metadata can have a greater meaning - communicating to other individuals the location of a reference in order to allow them to see the reference in its original context. It becomes a way of locating relatively precise locations within a work that is being referenced.
Currently, and we can expect for some time, the original print content will be the authoritative version that is referred to, or cited, as a means of communicating the exact location of a specific reference to another individual. Although evident in many industries, perhaps this arises most commonly in legal texts, where a lawyer as part of an argument or a judge in writing a decision will cite a text reference by title, volume, possibly edition, date/year, etc. and, ultimately, the page number - which in the end is just another piece of metadata relative to the text that appears on that particular page. In order to create digital copies of these types of texts that can still function relative to the print authority, an accurate page number that corresponds to the print needs to be available somewhere in the texts. (This is true both ways, by the way - both in terms of following a cite to a specific location within the content; and citing a specific location within the content).
For many publishers, InDesign will be the final, what I would call 'exportable' format that can maintain a certain degree of information about the context of the source content and will have page numbers represented that precisely reflect what will be found in the final print version.
I have some ideas on how I would like to present this in a reflowable digital version (and reflowable text for this type of content is desirable for all the reasons it would be elsewhere - adaptability to screen size, ability to resize/change fonts for different reader experience, etc). And the new EPUB fixed export function will allow me to preserve the page numbers and through some programming I can get to a point where I can isolate the text that corresponds to a specific page number from the InDesign exporta manual solution would not be an improvement), but with a somewhat 'cleaner' export of the text of the content, where the precise fixed formatting is not so important.
The perfect solution would be to allow page numbers to be preserved within a 'hidden' tag in the EPUB reflowable export - so that the content of each page would be preceeded by an <a id="Page_75" /> tag, with words that are hyphenated belonging to the page on which they started. Note that the use of such a tag would also go a long way towards supporting the call for a "page-list" and hyperlinks as you've described them above. If the publisher wanted to make use of such a tag, it would be available to them - otherwise the tag would be ignored by publisher and eReader software alike.
Andre

Best Way To Preserve MiniDV on Hard Drive

Hello!
I am starting a project where I am going through many MANY MiniDV tapes and I want to store them on an archive Hard Drive for future use (so that I do not need to deal with the real-time importation again). I have Premiere CS4 and have the camcorder connected via Firewire. My question is how can I save the raw footage the cam preserving all its detail? I want to keep the footage as it is on the MiniDV tape, so the archived version on the hard drive is a perfect reproduction of the tape. Once I have things archived, I will import them to edit and then compress them to smaller files sizes. I am well aware that the original tapes will take a lot of hard drive space (~ 13 gigs per hour), but that isn't an issue. I want to make sure that I never have to take all the time to import the original footage again.
I am well aware that the original tapes will take a lot of hard drive space (~ 13 gigs per hour), but that isn't an issue. I want to make sure that I never have to take all the time to import the original footage again. I also want to be able to import the archived video into any editing software I choose in the future, be it Premiere or something else.
Thanks!

I am well aware that the original tapes will take a lot of hard drive space (~ 13 gigs per hour), but that isn't an issue.
Thats SD, and I use ScLive for that. There's another program for HD that's supposed to be good but I haven't used yet.
It captures real time (firewire 800 is what I've used)...so it takes an hour ...I only have a mousey computer with 2 hard drives..should have 3...but I don't have the room in the tower or the sata port either for another....anyway, I capture to the 2nd hard drive which I use for my assets and projects....If I wanted to "save" those captured files ( even before importing to the project ) I would hook up an external hard drive and just copy all the files over to the external dirve.... some people use external drives for assets for a working project and that's when you need to assign the drive letter etc so you dont lose the link from project file ( on say the second hard drive ) to the assets ( on the external drive). But we're talking about saving for use on other stuff so you don't have to deal with that part of it...
ScLive will detect when your timecode indicates you turned off and on the camera...and make an avi type 2 file for each "clip"....so if you do more than one tape it's good to make folders for your tapes and name each folder , tape1, tape2 etc...then when capturing, name each file "tape1, tape2" etc and put into the relevant folder.....that way the timecodes match the tapes too...as the timecode becomes part of the filename..prefixed by what you name it...
ScLive is about $30 I think and its really good.
ps 1 terabyte 7200rpm drives are fairly cheap and fast and unless you really need larger size I would stick with that...
pps...dont forget, format drive ntfs, dont partition, indexing off...should be true of all your drives
the ones here who have taught me this stuff, harm millaard , john smith, bill hunt, ann bens, jeff bellune, curt wrigley, etc...lots more...have a lot of threads about systems and so on if you need more help on that end of it

Best way to preserve battery?

I just got a new macbook and I was wondering which of the two scenarios will best preserve my battery for better quality, or if it makes a difference at all:
1) Charge my battery to full, unplug, use up battery to empty, and plug in to charge to full again. Repeat cycle always.
2) Keep my macbook plugged in at all times when possible.
Thanks everyone.
MacBoook Mac OS X (10.4.8)

I will try and answer your first question as best I can, as I am not completely sure about this.
What I have heard, is that the computer runs completely on the power adapter when plugged in. But the charger is also charging the battery at the same time. I'm pretty sure that the MacBook's power adapter, has two circuits inside. One is for powering the computer, the other is for charging the battery.
Your second statement is also partly true. The battery that is used in all current Apple notebooks are designed to automatically be used on battery no matter what from time to time. This is to help prevent the battery from dying a premature death by being plugged in all the time. What happens is that when the battery reaches the fully charges state, the computer begins to run on battery power, while still plugged in, but only for a short time. (Something like 3-5% I think.) This is to make sure that 1. the battery does not overcharge, and 2. the battery's ions move around a bit. (That keeps a battery healthy, thus, using the computers battery is good for it...)
Your third statement is also partly true. Batteries are only perfect for up to 300 charges, or so Apple says. Once you get to 300 cycles, the battery is not dead though. Apple states that all of their batteries are designed to hold about an 80% charge at full capacity once they reach 300 cycles. This said, your battery is going to die weather or not you leave it plugged in all the time, or use it like it is intended to be used. I for one recharge my battery whenever the low battery warning comes up, I don't wait for the computer to go to sleep, or I recharge it when it is low if I know I will need it later.
I still stand behind my recommendation that not leaving a battery plugged in and using it normally, will allow it to9 last longer than leaving it plugged in all the time. Here is a real life example that I personally have seen: My dad purchased a Gateway notebook 5 years ago, he has it plugged in all the time. My aunt purchased a IBM ThinkPad about 6 years ago, and only plugged the battery in when it died. Guess what, my aunt's old notebook runs on battery for almost 3 hours after 6 years, my dads battery on the other hand last about ~30 minutes at the most.

Best way to backup old Tungsten E?

Had horrible, but apparently common, problem today of all my calendar data being lost. I absolutely never want to go through this again. What is the most reliable way to back up all Palm data on a daily basis? I have an old (2003-4) tungsten E.
Many thanks!
Post relates to: Tungsten E

You have a couple options,
1. Copy the username folder on the PC to the PC desktop or some place on the PC that you will remember. You can then copy the folder to a flash drive, CD-RW or hard drive.
Click on the following link to the kb.palm.com webpage for the article regarding the location of your username folder.
http://www.palm.com/cgi-bin/cso_kbURL.cgi?ID=26674
2. You can follow the steps below for another option for backing up. With this option you can import the data into any version of Palm desktop. I would recommend this procedure.
The best way to preserve your data is to export the data in each category in Palm Desktop to a seperate folder on your PC.
Create a new folder on your PC somewhere that is convenient. Name it something like Palm Desktop Data. Click on the link below and follow the instructions on that page for the export procedure.
http://www.palm.com/cgi-bin/cso_kbURL.cgi?ID=28734
Make sure you select all for the range in the export window.
With the data saved in the folder you created, make a copy of that folder and save to a flash drive, cd-rw or external hard drive.
Anytime you make a change in Palm Desktop, export the data that was changed to that folder and save again to the external media.
With this process you can always import the data back into Palm Desktop anytime you have a problem with the data in Palm Desktop or if your computer/hard drive/device crashes.
Post relates to: Palm i705

What's the Best Way to do Different Takes?

Hello there ...
I'm slowly making my way around Garageband ... I did a recording the other day of a combo ... electric piano, bass, drums, sax, and a vocalist ...
It was the first recording I've ever done in my life ... and I am amazed at the results .... it sounds pretty darn good. I'm fortunate that I have good mikes and a presonus preamp ... as I'm sure that helps a lot.
That said ... there are things I would do differently now ... and I want to ask how I would best do them ...
For example ... I just tracked one huge file ... then found out I would have to cycle each region and export them to make separate files as tracks on a cd.
The cycling thing worked great ... except that all the parameter changes I made on a region to make it sound better (depending on the cut) affected the whole recording.
So I realize I need to make whole new files for every take for when it comes down to mixing ...
My question is ... what is the best way to do this? Just do a "save as", rename ... and then delete everything that was recorded from the previous take and start fresh?
Thanks for any advice .....
I also noticed that when I adjusted the volume of part of a track using the graph points in the expanded track volume panel ... that I couldn't go back and adjust the original main individual track volume in the track input bar window. It became greyed out ... am I missing something there?

Now, if a particular take sounds good but you want to
change your effect settings, save as a different
GarageBand file and delete all the less-great takes.
This will be your master for that tune. You will
still have your other file with everything on it, but
this is the best way to preserve the many and note
the exception.
Hi Schneb ...
That sounds like a very good solution .... that way I would not waste any time during the session doing all those "save as" between takes .... I would just stop recording ... then start again and make a new region.
It makes a lot of sense to do the "save as" thing later and then just delete everything but the particular region (take) you want to work on ...
Thanks ...!
About the volume thing .... so once you fiddle with expanded volume track settings .... you can no longer manipulate the track slider volume?
If so ... I remember there is some sort of command to restore the track volume to its original is there not? At least that way you can start over ...

Best way to archive old footages

I have a few hundred VHS, miniDV, 8, and Hi-8 tapes with footages I do not want to lose.
What's the best way to preserve them in the long run? I'm afraid my Canon 8M, Sony Hi-8, and Sony miniDV (with Firewire) cameras won't last for too much longer, and my VCR just died.
Am I better off to:
a. Digitize all of them using FCP or FCE and store the clips using a big hard drive or burn them on DVD's for future use. Any suggestion for a database to store EDL
info?
b. Get another miniDV cam with firewire and just archive the VHS, 8M and Hi-8 tapes using the new miniDV camera. Any suggestion on a good quality one at a reasonable price?
How long do miniDV tapes last anyway? I have several that have been at least 5-6 years old.
Any suggestion will be greatly appreciated. Thanks! /Kenny

Hi Kenny-
From the storage perspective i think StudioX has you covered. I do have a couple of thoughts about my recent experiences to share.
I have been working with a lot of of old (25+ years) VHS and (40+) reel to reel tapes lately. Think about it-that's actually a lot longer than I think any of us actually expected them last. The older VHS tapes tend to become sticky and the plastic mechanisms of the actual VHS shell are breaking down. Physically inspect every tape that you prepare to archive. Press that little button in on the side of the cassette and physically operate the door and look at the tape. Don't forget to remove those little plastic tabs on the back that keep you from recording over the tape-yeah I know but you would be surprised (;>)
Get good at taking apart shells and moving the reels from one cassette to another. Practice splicing. I have a master shell that I modified by removing the door that closes to cover the tape to make one less thing to go wrong.
Dealing with animal p p is another topic altogether so if you need any help there just let me know and I will share.
Luck-
-DaddyPaycheck

Best way to archive projects for future use

I use Adobe Premiere Pro CS4,but this is a more generic question. I shoot videos that people want to save for a long time. I burn my projects to DVD's (or Blue-ray discs if the client does not mind the cost). DVD's can be destroyed, lost, wear out. What is the best way to preserve these memories? I know that some people charge the client and use a dedicated external hard drive for each project. What technique is not too expensive, but will last the longest?
Thanks,
Lisa

OK, I meant to tack this question with my last one, my client wants me to take her 1 hour video and compress it to a format that she can store/watch on her own hard drive. What format would retain audio and video quality best, and not be enormous and still be able to run on a computer (ie not burned to a DVD or Blu-ray Disc)?
Second part to this question:
one of my projects is 5 years old - not done on a external hard drive - which means that I can no longer access the project for conversion purposes. What choices do I have if I only have a DVD disc to convert to a file that can play/be stroed on a computer?
Thanks

Best way to go from Final Cut to DVD preserving Color Corrections

What is the best way to take my video project from Final Cut and burn it on a DVD (using DVD Studio), I need to preserve the color corrections I have made (used an external video monitor)? Also my camera shoots at black level IRE 0 and I have edited it that way, but as we all know NTSC TVs use IRE 7.5 is there anyway DVD Studio or FCP can convert the IRE so it matches?

from FC; export to compressor
In compressor, choose appropriate preset (i.e. best quality, >90 minutes, 16x9)
encode the sound as dolby 2 (if you choose "all" you'll get an extra aif file)
take the 2 files (video and audio) into dvd studio to encode.
Not sure about your IRE 7.5 question, I always assumed it was automatically converted but now you have me thinking...

The best way to get help with logic

I was posting in a thread on support for logic which appears to have been deleted. anyway, what I was going to say I think is useful info for people, so I'm going to post it anyway. to the mods - it doesn't contain any speculation about policies or anything like that. just an explanation of my views on the best way to deal with issues people have with logic, which I think is a valuable contribution to this forum.
I think there's a need for perspective. when you buy an apple product you get 90 days of free phone support to get everything working nice and neat. you can call them whenever, and you could actually keep them on the phone all day if you wanted, making them explain to you how to copy a file, install microsoft office, or any number of little questions no matter how simple - what is that red button thingy in my window for?.. on top of that, you've got a 14 day dead on arrival period (or 10 days I can't remember) in which if your machine has any kind of hardware fault whatsoever it's exchanged for a totally new one, no questions asked. a lot of people complain that applecare is overpriced.. and if you think of it just as an extended warranty, then it is a little pricey. but if you are someone that could use a lot of phone support, then it's actually potentially a total bargain. the fact that 2 or more years after you bought a computer, you could still be calling them every single day, asking for any kind of advice on how to use anything on the machine, is quite something. many people on this forum have had problems when they made the mistake of upgrading to 10.4.9 without first creating a system clone or checking first with their 3rd party plug in vendors to make sure it was ok. so, with apple care, you could call them and keep a technician on the phone _all day_ talking you through step-by-step how to back up all of your user data, how to go through and preserve your preferences and any other specific settings you might not want to lose, and then how to rollback to an earlier OS version.. they'll hold your hand through the whole thing if you need them to.
as for applecare support for pro apps like logic, I'd be the first person to agree that it's not great for anyone except beginners and first time users. if you look at what it takes to get even the highest level of logic certification, it's all pretty basic stuff. and logic doesn't exist in a vacuum, there is an entire universe of 3rd party software and hardware, as well as studio culture and advanced user techniques that are going to be totally invisible to some poor phone support guy at apple that did a logic 101. but it's not hard to see that apple are trying to promote a different kind of support culture, it's up to you to decide whether you want to buy into it or not.
the idea is that they are able to provide basic setup support for new users, including troubleshooting. because it's a simpler level of support, at least they can do this well. so there's no reason why any new user with say a new imac and logic can't get up and running with the 90 days of phone support they get for free.
but the thing is, for extremely high end pro users it's a different matter altogether. pro use of logic within the context of say, a studio or a film composition scenario is a very different world. it's almost a nonsense to imagine that apple could even hire people capable of giving useful support for this end of the spectrum, over the phone. there are so many variables, and so many things that require a very experienced studio person or in-work composer to even begin to understand the setup, let alone troubleshoot it. and it's a constantly evolving world, you actually have to be working in it and aware of developments on 3rd party fronts as well as changes in hardware.. not to mention even changes in the culture of studio production and the changed expectations that come from that. there's no way some poor little guy sitting at a help desk at apple can even hope to be privy to that kind of knowledge. it's already good enough that they don't outsource their support staff to india, let alone go out to studios and hire the very people with the skills that should be staying in the studio! not answering phones for apple.
so, given this reality.. companies have two choices. they can either offer an email based support ticket system, which others do. but in my opinion.. this can just be frustrating and only a half-solution. sure you 'feel' like you are getting a response from the people that make the software and therefore must know it.. but it's not really the case due to what I said above. DAWs don't exist in a vacuum, and so much of what you need to understand to help people requires an intimate knowledge of the music industry in which they are working. you still won't get that from steinberg, even if they sort of answer your emails. the other problem is that this kind of system can mean sporadic answers, a lot of tail-chasing, and quite often you won't get an answer that helps you in the end anyway.
the other model is to foster a strong user support culture. some people react in the wrong way to this idea.. they just think it's a big brush off from the manufacturer, saying we don't care, go sort it out yourselves.. but this isn't true. apple has a classification for pro resellers called 'apple solutions expert - audio'. what this means is that these dealers are recognised as audio specialists and they can receive extra support and training from apple for this. but more importantly than this.. most of them are music stores, or pro gear dealerships that are also mac and logic dealers. they already employ people that have worked or do work in the music industry, and are constantly on top of all of this stuff. apple encourages these dealers to run workshops, and to provide expert sales advice in the very niche area that logic is in, which they can do far better than some generic apple store ever could. but most importantly, they are encouraged to offer their own expert after-sales support and whatever other value-adding expertise they can, to get sales. because margins in computer gear are so tight nowadays, discounting is not really a viable option for these dealers to guarantee getting musicians to buy computers and logic setups from them. the only companies that can entice people with a lower price a big online wholesalers or big chain stores. so the best idea for these niche expert stores to get sales is to offer you their own experts to help with configuration, ongoing support and to generally make it a better idea that you bought your system from them rather than from some anonymous online store. I can see the wisdom of this.. it puts the support back out there on the ground where it's needed, and also where it can work best. apple could never hope to offer the same level of expertise in helping a film composer work through some issues with a specific interface or some highly specific issue they have with getting a task done. no big software manufacturer could do this anywhere near as well as people out there that have worked in studios or currently do work in studios. so in my opinion it's a far better model to foster this kind of support culture, along with training courses, books and training video support. also user forums like this one are possibly one of the most valuable ports of call anyone could ask for. apple couldn't replicate this with their own staff, even if they tried. and even if they made a system where some of the people close to logic development were able to answer emails, it would still be nowhere near as useful, as rapid or as capable of being up to speed with logic use out in the real world with 3rd pary gear, as any of these other methods are.
the only thing I think they could do better would be to publish a list of known bugs which are officially recognised. this would help everyone and put an end to a lot of wasted time and speculation on if something is a bug totally to do with logic, or if it's a specific issue raised by a particular configuration.
but really, in my view, a 3rd party support and training culture through a combination of specialist dealers, consultants that literally run a business setting up computers for pro-users and helping them keep it all working, online user-to-user forums and published materials really are the way forward.

In all honesty this is currently the 3rd "logicboard" (motherboard)
in my powerbook due to a design flaw regarding the 2nd memory slot....
Yep. Mine failed five weeks after I bought it. However, I bought it for work and couldn't afford being without it for four weeks while they fixed it, so I had to live with it. My serial number did not entitle me to a replacement either, post Applecare.
My firewire ports have burnt out from a third-party defective device (no hot-plugging involved)
My screen is blotchy (my PW serial number did not entitle me to a replacement).
My battery serial number did not entitle me to a replacement, and is not that good these days.
My guaranteed Powerbook-compatible RAM is actually not, causing RAM related problems, most notably these days meaning that as soon as I switch to battery power, the laptop crashes, so I can only use mains power. The company I bought it from stopped taking my calls and wouldn't replace it after they replaced it once, so I'm stuck with it. And of course, only one ram slot is working, so I can't even use my original stick in the first slot, which would shift the dodgy stuff away from the lower system area.
My power supply failed at the weak spot and caught fire. I managed to break apart the power supply and recable it so I didn't have to buy a new power supply, although the connection at the laptop end is loose (all the more fun that as soon as power is lost, the laptop crashes - see above). The power supply is held together with gaffa tape. Silver gaffer tape though, so it's still kind of 'Appley"...
My internal hard drive is dying - four or five times now it clicks and won't power up, causing the laptop to die.
One foot has fallen off (but glued back on).
The lid is warped.
The hinge is loosish.
The S-Video adaptor cable is intermittent.
But aside from all that, I have looked after it well, and I love it to death. Just as well, because it doesn't look like it will be that long...
But it still "just works". Apart from the battery power obviously. And the ram slot. And the ram. And the screen. And the hard drive. And the firewire ports. And the feet.
But everything apart from the main board, the screen, the case, the hard drive and the power supply works fine. So thats... er..
Hmm.

My wife and I share an Ipad.   We each have our own email address and calendar.   What is the best way for us to backup both accounts (we currently only have 1 ICloud account)?   Thanks for any help!    Alan

My wife and I each have our own email address and calendar. These are on one IPad.   The Ipad has a single ICloud account.
What's the best way to backup both Calendars, etc?   Does ICloud automatically back up every account on the same IPad? (I checked ICloud, but I could only find my stuff.)
Thanks for any help!
Alan

First, you need to understand that there's a difference between "syncing" and "backup". Backup is the saving of content and settings, where syncing is the bidirectional transfer of content for an account to a web-based server (like iCloud, Gmail, Yahoo, etc.)
If you see your calendar in your iCloud account, that implies that you have set up your iCloud account to host (sync) your calendar, and perhaps contacts, email, and notes. An iCloud account can only sync one user's information at a time so it is intended to support a single user. You can have more than one iCloud account, and you can even have more than one iCloud account on the same device (but one has to be primary, and the secondary iCloud has limited capabilities), but a single iCloud account only supports a single user's content.
Backup is the saving of your device's content and settings to use in case you need to recover these things, but you can't see the contents of your backup (just the size and device name). You can backup more than one device to iCloud and you can backup to iCloud or you can backup to your computer, or both (one at a time though, you have to choose).
So, if your wife has her own email and calendar she can certainly do that in parallel to whatever account(s) you have for email and calendar. But if you have only one iCloud account then only one of you can use it for email, calendar, etc. But the backup of these accounts is really just a backup of the device's settings that link the device to these accounts. For example, if she uses Gmail then the backup of the iPad only backs up the fact that your iPad is set up to use her account, it does not backup the account itself (the content of her account is saved and preserved on Google's servers, not your device's backup).
Does that make better sense?

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