Buying a T520 is the FHD screen worth the extra $200

Im buying a T520 in the next couple of days. My hobby is photography and I edit a lot in LR and PS. I am looking at going over my budget and getting a FHD screen instead of the HD+. Can any one give me any feedback, is it worth the extra $200.
Solved!
Go to Solution.

If you plan to work with LR and PS FHD does worth extra 200 .
You can downgrade other components like HDD, Video graphics card, no WWAN card, to compensate screen price.
You can upgrade other components in the future, but you can't upgrade the screen.
My TP : T410s i5, SSD, RAM 6Gb, Intel HD, Centrino N6300, Win 7 Ultimate 64

Similar Messages

Buying a new MBP Retina, is the top end Haswell i7 worth the extra $200?

Spec'ing out a brand new 15" MBP… I'm upgrading from my 2008 Core 2 Duo model with 6GB RAM. The question is, specifically:
As a graphic designer who uses Adobe Creative Cloud pretty extensively (Indesign, Photoshop, Illustrator, After Effects), will the extra $200 for any extra 300mhz of processor be worth the added cost?
Already the machine is pretty beefy, just wondering what the community thinks.
Hollah.
B

Benjamin Powers wrote:
will the extra $200 for any extra 300mhz of processor be worth the added cost?
not in my opinion.

I am going to buy myself a MacBook Pro in the near future and was wondering if the new Retina Display model would be worth the extra cash. I will mostly be doing photo/video/music editing.

I am going to buy myself a MacBook Pro in the near future and was wondering if the new Retina Display model would be worth the extra cash. I will mostly be doing photo/video/music editing.

if you're not in a big rush - why not hold off until Adobe and Microsoft releases an update to support the Retina Screen.
Don't get me wrong - the Macbook Retina is a good and videos look great - but when it comes to Photoshop, it's a little blurry and the fonts in Excel and Word is pretty blurry too.....I own one....
In any event, if it's something you can live with - then by all means - go for it.....
Otherwise - get the non Retina Macbook Pro - it's cheaper, and it's user upgradeable in both RAM and Hard Drive.
Good luck.

Is the retina display for the new mac book pro worth the extra cost? I'm buying a new mac book pro but not sure about the retina display.

Is the retina display for the new mac book pro worth the extra cost? I'm buying a new mac book pro but not sure about the retina display.

There is a US$10 adapter from old power adapter to new MacBook Pro.
MagSafe to MagSafe 2 Converter
The MagSafe to MagSafe 2 Converter allows you to use the MagSafe connector on your LED Cinema Display, Thunderbolt Display, or MagSafe Power Adapter to charge your MagSafe 2-equipped Mac computer.
For battery life, check the latest Software Update for the fix for most problems.

Buying a new Macbook Pro. Deciding b/w this add on: 2.4GHz Quad-core Intel Core i7 vs. 2.5GHz Quad-core Intel Core i7? Is it worth the extra $250?

Buying a new Macbook Pro. Deciding b/w this add on:
2.4GHz Quad-core Intel Core i7 vs.
2.5GHz Quad-core Intel Core i7?
Is it worth the extra $250?
What's the big difference? Thanks.

Upgrade RAM yourself through macsales.com for $60. Use the remaining $140 of Apple's mmeory price and upgrade for $150 to hi-res (1680x1050) and anti-glare. I never regretted that upgrade on mine.
My humble opinion.
Sorry ... I just did the math and that puts you $10 out of pocket ...

Does the extra cash for i7 worth over buying i5?

Hi,
Quick description:
I am a VBA developer (Excel) and have no issues with CPU speed. However, I wanted to learn Android programming but the speed of Eclipse is a major drawback. It actually made me forget about Android for many months.
Tried Visual C++ Express today and is a bit slow to compile, so I am looking to upgrade my laptop.
Dilema: i5 or i7
I would like to get opinions from developers that have knowledge of this matter. Is i7 going to be make a difference in speed compared to i5?
These are the available procs I can choose from my retail shop (laptops):
i5-4210U 1.70GHz (most common)
i5-4200H 2.80GHz
i5-4210M 2.60GHz
i5-5200U 2.20GHz
i7-4510U 2.00GHz (most common)
i7-5500U 2.40GHz
i7-4710HQ 2.50GHz
i7-4712MQ 2.30GHz
So to conclude, I am looking for advice whether I should pay the extra cash to get an i7. My goal is to have shorter compile time then I currently do. Is the speed difference noticable between i5 and i7?
If this helps you benchmark speed, on my Intel Core2 Duo T6600 2.2GHz with 4GB Ram, took me 8 seconds for the first build of XBrackets plugin for Notepad++ (the code is available online).
Many thanks in advance!

Hi Dobre,
Thank you for posting in MSDN forum.
Since this forum is to discuss: Visual Studio WPF/SL Designer, Visual Studio Guidance Automation Toolkit, Developer
Documentation and Help System, and Visual Studio Editor.
Based on your issue,
I’m afraid that it is not the correct forum for this issue.
Thanks for your understanding.
Best Regards,
We are trying to better understand customer views on social support experience, so your participation in this interview project would be greatly appreciated if you have time. Thanks for helping make community forums a great place.
Click
HERE to participate the survey.

Is it better to get an ipod repaired or just buy new? Want the most cost effective solution.

I have an Ipod Classic and a Nano that have issues. The Classic headphone jack does not work. The Nano only show the white Apple screen. These belong to my daughter who is very hard on her electronics.she is a runner and a gym rat. Would it be worth is to have them repaired or just to replace. she has a birthday and Christmas coming up. Will the Apple store people be able to give me a reasonable answer without pressuring me into buying?
Thanks for the advice.
Willie Fiedler

Cost of repair is going to depend on whether you have Apple do the repair or a third party service. Here is a list of Apple repair costs for the different generations and models of iPods.
http://www.apple.com/support/ipod/service/prices/
Note that Apple doesn't actually fix the device, but instead does an out of warranty exchange for an iPod of the same model, capacity, and generation for a flat fee.
For third party service pricing, you'll need to do some of your own research. Just Google "iPod repair" and you should get back a plethora of results to work through. From there you can decide whether to go the repair or replacement route.
B-rock

Want to buy a home by the end of the year - do I have a chance?

Hi everyone, I'm new to the forums, and only a "lurker" for about a week or so. There are too many factors involved to explain why, but my wife and I want to buy a house by the end of the year; so we're calling December 15 our deadline. As you read through our situation below, please keep the following questions in mind. I have the opportunity to use about $3000 to pay down some debt; what do I pay down, and what do I leave with a balance (and use for purchases)?Should I open a personal loan to pay off some cards and have a "new" type of loan on my credit report? Or will the added inquiry hurt more than the new line will help? I get constant offers from crap places like Prosper, but maybe with a better company...Should I refinance my NJ Class loans at a lower interest rate?Should I refinance my car loan at a lower interest rate or longer term?Should I go into repayment on the Federal student loan now so I can choose the repayment plan with the lowest monthly payment (30-year "extended" or "graduated extended") and have it show up on my credit report with a low monthly payment? Or will it not come up on my credit report as such (will it still show a high payment)? Or will the payment amount be ignored by the mortgage company (I've heard some use something like 1% of the loan amount per month)?Since my wife's employment situation is not ideal, can I get approved with only my credit and income and whatnot (making me the only one legally responsible for payment), but still have "joint ownership" of the property?It looks like a downpayment of 5% on $240k ($12k) turns into about $20k of up-front expenses when you count closing costs and escrow-tax-insurance-somethingorother (technical term, right?). What are the chances that after settling on a price with the seller, they'd accept bumping up the price by the amount of my closing costs, and then paying my closing costs for me? So basically, I'd be financing the closing costs. I've seen it mentioned in another form ("I offered $###k with seller-paid closing costs"). If the chances are low, how else can I reduce those closing costs? I've seen negative points, personal loans and cash advances (not sure if legal to use borrowed funds?), and downpayment-assistance programs (reduce downpayment = more cash available for closing costs, but I haven't seen this offered in NJ outside of taking a second mortgage for the downpayment in certain cases only) mentioned, but does anyone have a definitive list of how to lower the financial burden of closing costs?Based on my income, debts, interest rates, monthly amount I can put into savings, and general "homebuying timeline," when should I get pre-qualified? Please do not limit your advice to that related to the questions above... I hope to learn as much as I can, as quickly as I can 1. Mortgage Credit Scores:
What are your fico MORTGAGE credit scores for each mortgage applicant?I don't really want to pay to get mortgage scores now because I'm not ready to get prequalified... still paying down credit cards, so to me it's useless to get the score until my credit situation is stable. Here are free scores from credit cards and whatnot:
Myself:Discover 6/21: 773Citi 5/26: 744Capital One 6/18: 746Mint.com 4/7: 686 (score to be updated July 7th) My Wife:Discover 6/14: 749 Based on these, and the general deviation between them and mortgage scores (<50 points?) I think I would be able to qualify for a conventional loan, skipping FHA (ugh... mortgage insurance for life?). Some low-downpayment loan programs like Fannie Mae's MyCommunityMortgage (MCM) require higher scores (especially for DU), and I do think I would have the required 680-or-so, but as I mention elsewhere in this post, I haven't found an NJ MCM lender (other than brokers). But ideally, a 3% downpayment (like MCM) and reduced (compared to FHA and conventional) MI (again, like MCM) would be ideal... Obviously, there's no guarantee that these are anywhere close to the mortgage scores, so once I feel like I've paid down my cards as far as I need to (i.e. I feel I'm ready to get pre-qualified), I'll make sure to buy the mortgage scores. I'm thinking that point will be in about a month, but that depends on your answer(s) to question 8 :\ 2. Credit Negatives:  None except for a late payment more than 24 months ago on a student loan that was in "interest-only deferment." I believe that's on TransUnion, which is what Capital One pulls. 3. Gross Income./4. Source of income.   Myself: $65,000 (+ bonus that some years is as low as $500, so won't include it)My wife: $13,000 (±$2,000) All income is from employment (hers is part-time, and with two retail jobs, very likely to vary; mine is a salaried position). I may get an added part-time just to boost my savings, but it wouldn't be reported to them (I'm thinking a 3-6 month deal). 5. Monthly debt payments. Here are all my cards and loans, including month opened, APR, balance, limit, and payment. All balances as of today: Currently in my name w/wife as authorized user:Elan Financial CC, opened 6/2013, 20% APR:$-10 ($10,600 CL); payment $0Discover It CC, opened 5/2013, 15% APR:$2,900 ($5,000 CL); payment $59 **current APR 0% since entire balance was transferred from Elan at one point with a 0% offer that expires in AugustCapital One Quicksilver CC, opened 2008, 16% APR:$678 ($4,000 CL); payment $25Citi ThankYou Preferred CC, opened 8/2013, 14% APR:$700 ($2,600 CL); payment $25BankAmericard Cash Rewards CC, opened 8/2013, 15% APR:$616 ($2,000 CL); payment $25 My credit limits all went up within the last 6 months. Before then, they were $6,600 for Elan, $4,000 for Discover, $1,000 for Capital, $2,000 for Citi, and $800 for Bank of America. BofA was the only one that didn't automatically raise my limit or tell me I should request an increase, and when I requested it, they were the only ones that hit me with a HP. The Kay card below has also had a constantly-rising credit limit, from an original of $500, to $2500 a year ago, to the current $4000. Just in my name:Kay Jewelers CC, opened 4/2012, ridiculous (25%?) APR:$0 ($4,000 CL) - payment $0Macy's CC, opened 5/2014, 25% APR:$0 ($600 CL as of March) - payment $0M&T Auto Loan, since 9/2013, 5.3% APR:$10,310 ($14,218 original) - payment $231 (72 months total)HESAA/NJ Class, in repayment since 6/2015, 7.5% (approx. avg.) APR:$13,014 (originally less, but interest has accrued while in school) - payment $131FedLoans Direct Loans, in grace until 11/2015, 5% (avg.) APR:$56,237 (originally $52,000, but interest has accrued while in school) - payment $403 under standard repayment, <$250 under extended repayment ("Mortgage Letter" shows $403 unfortunately, since I can't pick a repayment plan now unless I forfeit the rest of the grace period) Wife's name w/me as authorized user:Discover CC, opened 5/2015, ridiculous (>20%) APR:$1,304 ($1,500 CL) - payment $35 So basically, I have a crapload of debt and quite a few recent inquiries. However, my credit score shot up when:The 5/2013 accounts aged to 2 years (and thus the inquiries were removed);I paid down cards and increased limits; usage went from ~$13k of ~$19k revolving limit used to about ~$6.5k (at one point) of about ~$25k (at one point) revolving limit used; now it's at about $5k used of $29k;I was added as an authorized user on my wife's card (at card opening).I think those point to a nice boost to the credit score when (1) I pay down the cards even more [to end of July], and (2) the three inquiries from BofA, Citi, and M&T disappear [2 in Aug, 1 in Sep]. Sounds like my pre-approval should be early October, making my intended closing date near-impossible . Maybe I can still qualify with a good rate despite the inquiries?
6. Employment (for those who are employed). Myself:Went from $16k/year to $26k/year part-time while in school, now $65k/year (as of last month) and salaried, all at the same company for 4 years now, and the boost was due to graduating; surely they can throw out the 2-year requirement? I plan on staying here for many years, and am about 99.9% certain there will be no reason for that income to drop in the forseeable future. Wife:Nothing's sure, and it's very low pay. As noted above, $13k/year at the moment, but she's unhappy with both (retail... ugh) jobs, so that's not guaranteed. She's looking for a break and a decent office job, but even if she gets it, I'm pretty sure the short length of time that she'd have it before getting a loan would make the difference in income useless. I'll add here our budget: In our current situation, with about $5000/month net income ($1k from her, $4k from me), we can comfortably save $2000/month. July and October are 5-week months, so that goes up to $3000 those months. However, I'm using the $3000 surplus from this month to pay down cards. So that's $7k added to savings thru October or $9k thru November. Hypothetically, I could "skip" paying off cards (or pay down all but Discover) in order to boost up savings.
7. Assets/Reserves. This is to determine how much you could potentially have as a down payment and also as reserves to help qualify (for example if your debt to income ratio is high this could help qualify you anyway). Savings: $5000Checking: Everything that goes in, goes to paying credit cards or into savings. I haven't made a purchase transaction with a debit card in over a year because I get points on all my cards. So call it $0 available for moving to savings.
8. Location:  This is to determine govt guaranteed loan limits, what special programs might be available for you, how much property taxes & homeowners insurance will likely be, amongst other items. Central New Jersey (Somerset, Middlesex, possibly Hunterdon counties). I don't know where I can find a "conforming" 3-3.5% down loan here that's not FHA, since no local banks seem to advertise something like it. I've been looking at MyCommunityMortgage and they seem awesome - 3-5% down with mortgage insurance that is typical for 10-15%-down conventional loans - but when I do search for "Fannie Mae + your home state" as recommended, all I get is HomeFirst and general info on MyCommunityMortgage (since the income/value limits are higher for NJ, that info gets included in all their documentation on the program).
9. Property Description:  Single-family, "single home" (no townhouse/condo). No foreclosures, short sales, or other "as-is" situations.
10. Property Value.  $200,000-$250,000
11. Occupancy.  Currently? Rent $550/mo. As far as every credit application I've filled out is concerned, it's my responsibility. However, since the contract IS in both our names, I could hypothetically call it $275/mo (even split) or $440/mo (split based on relative income). Not sure what that would help/hurt with; I've heard of sticker shock being a concern for some, but if all goes according to plan ($2000/mo into savings, basically the amount the mortgage+tax+insurance would be), I don't see that being an issue. 12. Transaction Type. Purchase - primary residence. ----------------------------------------- Sorry for the extremely long post... and thank you all in advance

Georgie_Boy wrote:
Hi everyone, I'm new to the forums, and only a "lurker" for about a week or so. There are too many factors involved to explain why, but my wife and I want to buy a house by the end of the year; so we're calling December 15 our deadline. As you read through our situation below, please keep the following questions in mind. I have the opportunity to use about $3000 to pay down some debt; what do I pay down, and what do I leave with a balance (and use for purchases)? You want to get as many of your ccs to zero as you can ...optimum scoring is one account carrying a balance of 3-9% of your CL, all others at zero ...the mortgage lenders will count each account with a balance as a monthly debt due equal to your minimum payment when calculating your dtirs ...those minimum payments quickly add up and can seriously impact how much you can get approved for.Should I open a personal loan to pay off some cards and have a "new" type of loan on my credit report? Or will the added inquiry hurt more than the new line will help? I get constant offers from crap places like Prosper, but maybe with a better company...Ignore the personal loan offers. You have a decent credit mix now between your ccs and auto installment loan. A personal loan would only hurt your scores at this point.Should I refinance my NJ Class loans at a lower interest rate? Not personally familiar with these but it looks like a SL from the other info you've provided. Generically you should refinance when the total cost of doing so is beneficial to you. That said, a mortgage lender is going to look at total student debt, and use the greater of your current payment or 1% of the total ...thus refinancing for mortgage purposes may not result in any dtir benefit to you. Should I refinance my car loan at a lower interest rate or longer term? If this is a new car loan, yes ...if its a used car loan, it depends on age and value because your current rate isn't outrageous for an older car loan ...generically, if you can refinance to a lower monthly payment at a reasonable cost, you should do so in order to lower your dtir ...but its a trade-off because the HP will probably cost you a few points on your scores.Should I go into repayment on the Federal student loan now so I can choose the repayment plan with the lowest monthly payment (30-year "extended" or "graduated extended") and have it show up on my credit report with a low monthly payment? Or will it not come up on my credit report as such (will it still show a high payment)? Or will the payment amount be ignored by the mortgage company (I've heard some use something like 1% of the loan amount per month)? All of the govt guaranteed loan programs have recently moved to using the higher of your current payment or 1% of the total in your dtir calculations ...do the math and act accordingly. Be wary of any lender that is not using the higher figure when giving you preapproval numbers, uw will inevitably catch it and it could torpedo your loan after you've signed a contract and spent on prepaids and fees.Since my wife's employment situation is not ideal, can I get approved with only my credit and income and whatnot (making me the only one legally responsible for payment), but still have "joint ownership" of the property? She is either on the loan or not ...you can't have it both ways. At the time you apply, your LO will look at both of your incomes and tell you what will work best in your situation. As long as her income can be documented via tax returns, it should be "useable"It looks like a downpayment of 5% on $240k ($12k) turns into about $20k of up-front expenses when you count closing costs and escrow-tax-insurance-somethingorother (technical term, right?). What are the chances that after settling on a price with the seller, they'd accept bumping up the price by the amount of my closing costs, and then paying my closing costs for me? So basically, I'd be financing the closing costs. I've seen it mentioned in another form ("I offered $###k with seller-paid closing costs"). If the chances are low, how else can I reduce those closing costs? I've seen negative points, personal loans and cash advances (not sure if legal to use borrowed funds?), and downpayment-assistance programs (reduce downpayment = more cash available for closing costs, but I haven't seen this offered in NJ outside of taking a second mortgage for the downpayment in certain cases only) mentioned, but does anyone have a definitive list of how to lower the financial burden of closing costs? This is very specific to the loan program ...conventional with 5% dp limits seller concessions to 3%, FHA is 6% regardless, USDA is technically unlimited ...be aware that every lender will have their own overlays which may affect those numbers. It is also affected greatly by your market conditions which at the moment vary greatly by your locale ...in a buyers market, you can expect seller concessions ...in a sellers market, probably not. USDA offers the best govt guarantee program for closing costs since they will allow you to include closing costs in the loan up to the appraised value. New Jersey's web site is screwed up (at least for me) and I can't nail down exactly what dp/closing cost assistance programs are available to you but it looks very dependent on the specific location you are buying in.Based on my income, debts, interest rates, monthly amount I can put into savings, and general "homebuying timeline," when should I get pre-qualified? DO NOT get "pre-qualified" ...get "pre-approved" ...a pre-qual is virtually meaningless ...a pre-approval means they've actually looked at your documentation and, short of verification, are reasonably sure they can get you to closing ...its a huge difference ...as far as when? ...yesterday would have been great ...rates are rising ...its almost certainly going to get worse ...so bite the bullet ...find a decent realtor in your target area, ask them to recommend lenders they have worked with that can actually close their loans ...talk to those lenders ...get a pre-app ...go shopping ...if your credit scores/dtir improve significantly because of cc paydowns, ask your lender to rescore you ...mortgage pulls within 30-60 days all count as one HP. Please do not limit your advice to that related to the questions above... I hope to learn as much as I can, as quickly as I can 1. Mortgage Credit Scores: Its essential to your question of "when" that you know your actual mortgage scores ...the Discover scores are actual Fico cc scores, the others are FAKOs afaik ...but the Fico cc and mortgage scoring models differ in several important ways and vary easily by +/- 50 points depending on what is in your CRA files ...mine actually track fairly closely but others have seen very negative differences ...its worth the $40 imnsho to know where you actually stand ...anything you do to improve them in the next month will only help but is not sufficient reason to delay ...again imnsho.  2. Credit Negatives:  Have you tried to have the late removed from the CR? Depending on the SL source, some programs have been very responsive to GW requests after a good payment record has been reestablished ...ymmv but you lose nothing by trying.  5. Monthly debt payments. Get the Discover to under $500 if possible ...and ask for a CLI asap ...Discover has been handing them out like candy lately ...keep a balance open 3-9% if possible but if not, as low as you can ...its more important to zero the other ccs first.Capital One Quicksilver CC, opened 2008, 16% APR:$678 ($4,000 CL); payment $25 ...pay it to zeroCiti ThankYou Preferred CC, opened 8/2013, 14% APR:$700 ($2,600 CL); payment $25 ...pay it to zeroBankAmericard Cash Rewards CC, opened 8/2013, 15% APR:$616 ($2,000 CL); payment $25 ...pay it to zero HESAA/NJ Class, in repayment since 6/2015, 7.5% (approx. avg.) APR:$13,014 (originally less, but interest has accrued while in school) - payment $131FedLoans Direct Loans, in grace until 11/2015, 5% (avg.) APR:$56,237 (originally $52,000, but interest has accrued while in school) - payment $403 under standard repayment, <$250 under extended repayment ("Mortgage Letter" shows $403 unfortunately, since I can't pick a repayment plan now unless I forfeit the rest of the grace period)Its almost certain that the last two will be seen as a combined 69k SL with $690 used in your dtir calculation Wife's name w/me as authorized user:Discover CC, opened 5/2015, ridiculous (>20%) APR:$1,304 ($1,500 CL) - payment $35 ...pay this to zero Credit score almost certainly isn't your major problem ...debt-to-income is Total income = 78k =6500 moTotal mo debt = 134cc/231auto/690SL= 1055 + ~1600 mo PITI+MI (220k@5%/5%dp) NJ taxes are higher than national avgs = 2655 total monthly paymentsThats a be ratio of 41% ...ideal is <36% but many programs will go higher
6. Employment (for those who are employed). Do not count on reason and logic being used in the mortgage process ...this will come down to finding a lender who will work with you ...if the 4 yrs is same company and the line of work matches your degree, it may not be a problem ...but its one reason you want to get the pre-approval process going now ...to find a lender who knows your exact situation, has reviewed the documentation, and given you a pre-approval knowing all the facts ...av pre-qual will look at your score, ask you for your current income, and promise you pie-in-the-sky until the rubber meets the road and his uw upchucks over your employment history ...goodbye loan and all the money you paid ...get a real pre-approval  8. Location:  Hunterdon county has a lot of areas eligible for the USDA program and your income is well within the limits ...if the commute is acceptable, its a good program. Somerset/Middlesex are mostly ineligible. The NJ website for dp assistance programs isn't working for me but take the effort to ask your prospective lenders about these programs and their experience with them. Any that pooh pooh them should be scratched off your list. 11. Occupancy.   Sticker shock WILL be an UW issue but you appear to have it addressed. Current rent will not factor in to dtir for your mortgage.  ----------------------------------------- Sorry for the extremely long post... and thank you all in advance ...I could only wish that everyone would supply as much info as you have ...please feel free to ask if you dont understand ofr if I misunderstood something ...hth

Can I use split screens on and extra monitor I have. I can get mirror image on both screens, but not a split screen. The monitor is 1600 x 900.

Can I use split screens on an extra monitor I have? I can get a mirror image on both screens, but not a split screen. The monitor is 1600 x 900 AOC 20inch monitor. Hope I haven't wasted my money buying this £69 monitor. My 13" Macbook Pro is a little small for my ageing eyes. Thanks

In the display settings on your computer uncheck "mirrored". This will put the displays in "extended" mode. In extended mode you can set the external display to its native resolution as well as drag windows from your computer to the external monitor. I assume that is what you mean when you say "split screen".

Is the "512GB PCIe-based Flash Storage" on the new mac worth the extra cost? I am comparing with a refurb with better specs (faster CPU, larger hard drive) and from what I undersand the PCIe flash storage is the big differentiator in cost.

hello - i am considering two macbook pros
NEW - http://store.apple.com/us/buy-mac/macbook-pro?product=ME294LL/A&step=config#
REFURB - http://store.apple.com/us/product/G0ML1LL/A/refurbished-macbook-pro-27ghz-quad-c ore-intel-i7-with-retina-display
The refurb actually has a faster processor and a larger hard drive. From what I understand, the big difference in cost is the new macbook pro contains "512GB PCIe-based Flash Storage" versus the refurb "768GB Flash Storage".
Is the PCIe flash storage really worth the extra cost (and smaller size)?
PS - Also I believe the brand new one has 2 GB graphics memory as opposed to 1 GB graphics memory. I don't really care about that as much as I won't be doing a lot of video editing or gaming.

RestonManJavaLuver wrote:
Is she wrong - are these actually going to people's homes, being used, then returned and resold?
Some are some are not. Otherwise Apple has a ton of Mac's sitting around that have been returned by customers under their 14 day No Questions Asked return policy.
But they not just Returned and Resold. They go back to Apple, checked out (Tested) any parts that are not up to spec replaced and then repackaged in a plain white box to be sold as refurbs.

Where can i buy iphone 6 plus tampered glass screen protector and waterproof casing

where can i buy iphone 6 plus tampered glass screen protector and waterproof casing. how much is it and where can i get it.FROM SINGAPORE

If you take a look at the Lifeproof fre and it's features, I don't think you should need a tempered glass screen. I have found this case to be so perfect that the touch ID works better than it did directly on the iPhone 6 Gorilla Glass.

My mini i pad 2 retina display screen is not work correctly after two days of buying appear some gray line on screen un furtunately i live in iran and i havnot access to any i pad store please guide me

My mini i pad 2 retina display screen is not work correctly after two days of buying appear some gray line on screen un furtunately i live in iran and i havnot access to any i pad store please guide me

Try this - Reset the iPad by holding down on the Sleep and Home buttons at the same time for about 10-15 seconds until the Apple Logo appears - ignore the red slider - let go of the buttons. (This is equivalent to rebooting your computer.) No data/files will be erased. http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1430
 Cheers, Tom

Qosmios X300-156: Should I buy a cooler for the portable

Hi.
Well I'm freshman here in your site :)
I have a doubt about my portable. I have asked many people reviews, but none was able to convince.
I have a X300, and unfortnely he had a breakdown on the motherboard.
I'm from Portugal, anda they sad to me that in Portugal they don't have the motherboard,
I have to wait until she comes from germany. This is desperate because I'm there three weeks without the portable.
Makes me think if its worth buying a laptop so expensive. If it were a normal portable Surely it would have.
But my question is this. Should I buy a cooler for the portable since it has been down twice due to temperature?
Some people say that i don´t need it and some people say that i should buy. Does it hurt to have a cooler in the portable?
Well thats all. Thank you, and sorry my english =|
Regarts

Hi
Usually an additional cooler is not necessary and in most cases counterproductive.
In your case its important that the notebook has been placed on the table and that there is enough free space around the notebook to assign good air circulation.
Furthermore you should use the Toshiba graphic card driver because such driver supports and GPU overheating protection. Drivers from ATI page or nVidia page do not support such protection as this could lead to GPU damage.
Its also advisable to clean the cooling fans and grilles from time to time its could be helpful to remove the dust using the compressed air spray.

Possible to downgrade / replace T530 FHD screen?

Hi. My 85 year old father (who lives in another state) recieved a T530 with an FHD screen. The resolution is too high for him -- everything is too small. He can't return the machine, and none of the usual fixes (changing DPI or lowering the resolution) work for him or all of the programs he uses.
I've spent way too much time discussing this with him, (family tech support!) so now I have one simple question:
Is it possible to replace the FHD screen with an HD screen? Is it a straight swap?
Thanks for any help --
Solved!
Go to Solution.

I don't think you need to lower the resolution (non native resolutions always look bad/weird), have you tried increasing the size of the desktop icons to "big" and the fonts to 150% or so?
/L40SX/240/240X/2*340CSE/360PE/365XD/380D/380E/380XD/380Z/390/560E/560X/2*570/2*600/600E/750Cs/755C/760CD/760EL/760XD/770E/A20p/A22p
A31/i1600/G40/R50p/R61i/S30/SL510/2*T22/4*T4x/11*T6x/6*T4x0x/6*T5x0/3*W5x0/W700/3*X2x/4*X3x/3*X4x/5*X6x/3*X6xT/10*X2xx/2*X200T/4*X30x/Z60m/3*Z61x
Comunidad en Español English Community Deutsche Community Русскоязычное Сообщество

W530 FHD Screen Issue

Hi all,
The FHD screen on my W530 does not look very sharp. The text looks a bit blurry, especially for a 1080p display. I've tried changing sharpness, contrast, etc. to no avail.
The screen also has a slight reddish tint to it. I've tried using the color profiles found in this thread: http://forum.notebookreview.com/lenovo/695861-t-w530-fhd-color-profile.html to little avail.
Any Suggestions?
EDIT: Blurry text is now fixed; Reddish tint is the only problem now.
Thinkpad X120e w/ AMD E-350, 4GB RAM, 320GB HDD, HD Display
Thinkpad W530 w/ Core i7 3740QM, Quadro K1000m, 16GB RAM, 1TB HDD, 1080p FHD Display

With the 7 digit code and serial number from your laptop (don't post the S/N here) you can check the parts lookup and look for the panel model: click here
As alternative you could install a software like HWINFO or SIW or Everest and use it to check your panel model.
Hope this helps!
/L40SX/240/240X/2*340CSE/360PE/365XD/380D/380E/380XD/380Z/390/560E/560X/2*570/2*600/600E/750Cs/755C/760CD/760EL/760XD/770E/A20p/A22p
A31/i1600/G40/R50p/R61i/S30/SL510/2*T22/4*T4x/11*T6x/6*T4x0x/6*T5x0/3*W5x0/W700/3*X2x/4*X3x/3*X4x/5*X6x/3*X6xT/10*X2xx/2*X200T/4*X30x/Z60m/3*Z61x
Comunidad en Español English Community Deutsche Community Русскоязычное Сообщество

Buying a T520 is the FHD screen worth the extra $200

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for