Calibrating a 23" ACD

I just attempted to calibrate my year-old 23" ACD using a Spyder2Pro. The resulting profile looked much brighter and redder than any of the other profiles such as Apple RGB, Adobe RGB (1998), Generic Monitor, NTSC (1953), etc. In fact, clicking through the profiles, most of them look identical to my eye yet quite different than my custom profile. Should I trust this custom profile, seeing as how it was tailor-made for my display, or go with the majority rule of how my display should appear?
Also, does anyone know whether I should select "Brightness" or "Backlight" during the Spyder's calibration process?

Raymond Fox wrote:
So how does one determine what standard to calibrate to?
In a picky professional setting you would choose values that are consistent with your main type of output. Actually most people should do just fine at 6500K/gamma 2.2 (I do), then set the Luminance to whatever makes it consistent with how bright your paper looks coming out of your printer. (If the monitor is too bright, for example, you will think your prints are dark but it's only because a too-high monitor brightness is creating unrealistically high brightness that can't be reproduced on paper.) The main reason to pick other values is if you are doing critical work and have a viewing booth and specific papers you need to match. Otherwise, 6500K/2.2 should be an OK setting if you don't have any other ideas.
You might want to read this article for more explanation. If you want to go deep into this, read the Real World Color Management book referred to in the link.

Similar Messages

Calibrating a New ACD Aluminum Widescreen

I just purchased a monitor that is apparently from the last production run of the wide screen 20 inch Aluminum Apple Cinema Displays. They were discontinued in February and are the last of the low glare ACDs.
My question is, what is the best hardware calibrator for this display? I know that this display has been around for a while and has gone through a few iterations, so was wondering what seems to work best in the most recent ones, say 2007-2009.

http://spyder.datacolor.com/index_us.php

CM and Adobe

A while back, with the help of Ann, Ramon, Lindberg, and a host of others, we looked at a problem I was having with strange colors mutating on my screen and Color Management. Part of the problem apparently was hardware related.
Over the last few days, I noticed if I created something in my AdobeRGB workspace and converted that to sRGB and then previewed in Firefox which I have set to color manage, that the colors were shifting to a more saturated palette. But not nearly as bad as previously.
I knew that the colors were fine in CS4 or Bridge and what they once looked like in Firefox when we went through that discussion. So, I knew that the images had not changed, and went to find out what had.
While the mutation was not as noticeable as last time, nor do I think my hardware was failing this time around, I decided to look at my ICC profiles and check and recheck all monitor profiles.
Then I thought after really looking closely at the images on my ACD, that it was most likely a software issue of the program reading the wrong profile, the laptop profile. There was no reason the the images when viewing on the ACD would look fine in CS4 or Bridge but then look more saturated in Firefox with color management or Safari.
So, I did a test.
I knew each screen was calibrated using ColorEyes2 with a Monaco OptixXR Pro puck. Each was verified. So, I set my laptop to the profile that my ACD uses, and you got it, the colors on my ACD when viewing an image were fine. This of course was after setting the profile and restarting.
So I don't care what my laptop screen looks like when using the Apple Cinema Display, but I do care that when using dual monitors, not only does FireFox appear to use the wrong profile at times, I have noticed that if one is not careful, that CS4 will do the same.
For now, when using both the laptop with the ACD I plan on just setting both to the profile I use for my ACD calibrated. Then I shouldn't ever see the colors start to mutate.
But my question, besides an Adobe product or Firefox or Safari, is there any program that is color managed to view jpgs that are created in CS4 that we can check and compare? I think Preview uses monitor RGB. I am not sold on the CM of Firefox or Safari. So if you work in an AdobeRGB workspace and convert an image to sRGB and want to view, besides Firefox or Safari, or other Adobe product, what program would one use?
I think either the programs are reading the wrong profile at times, or the mac is providing the wrong profiles at times. Either way, the colors look more saturated than they are at times when viewing in Firefox or Safari and yet look like intended in CS4 or Bridge. So something is causing the wrong profile to be read or used.
For now, the work around seems to be to use my ACD monitor profile as also the profile for the laptop. Bummer. But it works and so life goes on....
Thanks.

Final conclusion:
I re-calibrated both the ACD monitor and the notebook. Same old problem. So I again tried to view the sRGB in Firefox using CM with BOTH the notebook and the ACD set to the same profile, the one for the ACD. All is well. Just a work around.
I won't say this is an issue Adobe can help with so will leave it at that and let this thread die.
I will say no doubt it is a mac issue and most likely either the macbook pro hardware/software or the OS being Leopard. Either way, I am yet to be impressed with a mac over a pc. With one, you get these issues and with the other, viruses.
Its a computer. And neither OS is perfect nor is their hardware. I have found so many issues with this piece of cr@p notebook that I wish I could afford to get rid of it. But it does what it does and I work around it.
So JM, thanks for responding but I have a feeling the only fix is to once again format and reload, just like a pc. Though my hard drive is only half full and half available and I do not have ten thousand fonts loaded nor anything crazy, it just misbehaves like PCs.
If vendors would only work on stability for a moment and forget adding more problems called bells and whistles, we may yet one day see a solid performer. Until then, this macbook pro is not worth the money spent, nor has any system to date.
When I built my own clone PCs and stayed with win2000 I had a system that finally was almost bullet proof. Then they had to go to XP and worse yet... Vista.
My unfortunate need to upgrade finally to either Vista or Leopard has just shown poor timing. I know many here have yet to upgrade from Tiger. We will see what the future holds. Till then, we will continue to find our work arounds.
thanks...

Loss of Image Info on Cinema Display

I recently jumped to a 2 year old G5 and 20" cinema display combo and am getting screwed.
Basically, my screen is not showing me what's actually going on with the files. The screen seems too contrasty / punchy / hot... I'm a graphic designer, and since I need to be able to (at least marginally) view on screen what information is in a file, this has made image manipulation nearly IMPOSSIBLE. My epson printouts DO show me this "lost" information, but I certainly can't work off of printouts alone for the life of this machine.... In the meantime, areas of an image that are as dark as 10 or 20% grey are showing up on screen as PURE WHITE. And this is probably only the loss that glaring enough for me to notice... (Although, when I watched a movie the other day, the blacks also felt WAY too dense, and seemed to eat many of the scenes...)
I've tried every calibration option the ACD seems to offer, to no avail. I've checked to make sure my video card works with my monitor, as answered in the affirmative with the following thread:
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=1125196&tstart=0
At this point I don't know if the problem is in my G5, or the monitor, or what....
Can anyone help?
Some more information that may be helpful/relevant:
1) The "hotness" is not application specific. It occurs in Photoshop, Quark, in PDFs, everywhere....
2) The G5 was refurbished when originally purchased.
3) Before I jumped to this set-up a few weeks ago, I was on a very reliable emac running OS9 (no snickering please...) and what I saw on the screen there was pretty bang-on with what I was seeing in my print outs and final files.
4) I'm using the same printer and scanning devises that I was with my emac, so I don't think they're the problem... but JIC, they are Epson Perfection 1640SU Scanner, and Epson Stylus photo 1270 Photo Printer.
Let me know If I've left out any key, relevant info.... And Thanks!

Make sure the "Enhance contrast" slider in the "Seeing" tab of "Universal Access" system preference is all the way to the left.

23" ACD with pink in upper right quarter of screen, live with it?

I've got a week 28 ACD that arrived as a portion of my not-yet-shipping Mac Pro order. From what I understand this is the new spec version (it certainly is very bright with vivid colors).
I've been using it for about a week and can't shake the notion that towards the upper right quarter of the screen the color is slightly more pink/magenta than the rest of the display. Frankly, this is only noticeable in gray tones—reds, greens, and blues look fantastic no matter what. Unfortunately there is lots of gray in OS X and in general the work I do tends to include gray from time to time of course!
I've used both the Apple Display Calibrator and SuperCal. The Apple one helped alleviate the very pink cast the entire screen had with the default color profile, but I found that SuperCal produced much better results giving me neutral grays across the entire screen... almost. The pink quarter (and I swear almost the whole upper half, but that might be my imagination?!??) of the screen remains EVER SO SLIGHTLY different looking.
I also have backlight bleeding that I'm prepared to live with as it's barely noticeable most of the time. I don't have any image persistence, dead pixels, etc. Is it worth either the long drive to the Apple Store or the high cost of shipping it back for a replacement? Should I not demand perfection? The problem is risking getting a WORSE replacement at a troublesome expenditure of time and money to me.
I also want to hear if anyone has the same barely-noticeable-pink-in-only-a-portion-of-the-screen issue.
PowerBook G4 15"/800MHz Mac OS X (10.4.7) 23" Cinema HD Display

Sure I have it too ... When I bough my first 23 it was pinkish overall and I finally messed about with the calibrating long enough to accept the result and live with it ... I just bought my second one and now have a pink to green gradient ... can't get rid of it ... Reading the forum I also seem to have backlight leakage and the translucency problem ... Haven't noticed a dead pixel yet ... if that one happens ... there will be a dead salesman at the store ... It's a pitty ... loyalty to Apple only goes a certain way ... thinking of buying Sony LCD's instead ... but then I read they are the same ... Maybe I just have to live with it ... and dream about the paradise holiday I will make with the profits of my edit on these not perfect displays ...

Calibration of 24" iMac(white) please advise

Hi,
We recently purchased a 24" iMac(white, late 2006), we were lucky enough to find one, I'd read negative things about the new Alu iMacs and when my wife(a photograhper) saw one in the store she said "no way" so the previous was a good choice. It seems the one we found was the last one in the city, nobody else had one in stock. I suspect Apple are pushing the "Creative Profesionals" towards the MacBook Pros and Mac Pros with ACDs hence the changes but that's just my opinion...
Anyway here's the thing, have been trying to calibrate it. I'll try to explain what it is I've been doing as a series of steps so it's easy to digest
1. We have an eye-one display 2(now X-rite "i1") with the software updates so it works fine in Intel Mac.
2. I had been browsing this and other forums and discovered that when calibrating I should specify a native white point or 6500K(for inkjet), gamma 2.2 and a luminance of 120.
3. When using the i1 software I selected LCD and then the advanced mode. When it gets to the select white point there's an option for presets or red, green and blue. The latter I cannot do as there are no such controls so I select the presets, click next, it shows the target as 6500K but the actual was 7000K. When I try the RGB presets as a test it shows the blue as being too high(7000K).
4. When specifying the target luminance I couldn't get the brightness below 145 so I had to use the "shades" software to get it to 120. That allows the profile process to complete correctly but what I don't understand is once the profile is complete do I leave the shades running(without touching the slider) and not touch the OS X brightness control or turn off the shades and leave the OS X brightness control setting where it is? Can someone please clarify/explain this?
5. I then come across the "coloreyes" software which supposedly is the best of them all so I download the demo(have 4 trys remaining). The implementation of this is very different from other apps I've seen but there's lots of info.
6. Coloreyes has this "Apple Monitor" preset which I tried but then I read in this forum that others had used the LCD Brightness preset instead, is that "LCD Brightess/Gain"(with iMac like icon) or "LCD Brightness"(with laptop like icon)??
7. Coloreyes has gamma of 1.8, 2.2 and L*, should I use this L* for a 24" white iMac late 2006?
8. Coloreyes has a pre-calibraton brightness checker, I should place the OS X brightness slider in the middle(for example) start the process and use the keyboard controls until the brightness = 0 and then start the profiling?
9. The current profile started with brightness = 0, native white point, gamma L* and luminance 120. My wife says the photos look a little dark. She doesn't use the screen as a final guide for her images more so the levels in photoshop and the final prints but I guess the onscreen results should be as accurate as possible. Am beginning to think the iMac(which was to be a much better option than a 24" Alu) was a bad idea, it's otherwise a lovely computer and she's very please with it.
If someone has an idea on this can you please reply with details in steps like above? Maybe it's an idea to paste my post and add commments or suggestions inline. I'm far from an expert on this subject, my knowledge is based on what I've found when searching google. It seems that opinions and experience vary quite a lot

Hi,
What do you mean exactly by "I found that for some reason I could not calibrate from the "apple monitor" setting at first." do you mean you couldn't specify native white point, luminance 120, gamma 2.2?
I'm assuming you did it this way(please correct me if I'm wrong as I more than likely am
1. You started with "LCD Brightness only"(native white point, luminance 120, gamma 2.2?) first, not "LCD Brightness/Gain" and setting the brightness to 0 prior to starting the profiling.
2. You then used that as your starting point(although profiling apps ignore the current profile when starting) choosing "Apple Monitor"(native white point, luminance 120, gamma 2.2?) without setting the brightness as that option doesn't specify it.
I'm assuming you specified the same settings twice?
Another thing that has me puzzled is how come when using an i1 with eye-one software for luminance 120 you have to push the OS X brightness slider all the way to the left and then use "Shades"(or equivalent) to decrease the brightness even further to reach 120 where as with an i1 and coloreyes you can specify luminance 120 and just use OS X brightness slider to reach the correct value? I'm assuming it's because coloreyes is a better app?
Sorry for all the questions, just trying to understand the process and find the best method/solution

New 30" acd & old 23" acd problems

Hey
Last week my 23” 2-year-old acd power bar completely died. With Apple care, I had it replaced in store. Once I got home, when I powdered on the display the screen was full of dust spots, sandwiched between the LCD and the protective screen. So the next day I was back in the apple store. We were all puzzled on how the dust got in there, but since you can’t just clean it they placed an order for a replacement monitor. I took this one back home...so far so good.
For the past few weeks I was toying with the idea of getting a 30” acd, so the next day I went to another apple store (it was on my way) and picked a brand new one. Got home, plugged it in...and what the...! First, the backlight bleeding at the bottom left and right corners was terrible. Left bleed was sort of extending upwards, in a weird spiral. But that’s not all...I replaced the background with a solid white, and to my surprise, left quarter of the display was shifting towards blue.
I didn’t go to the apple store right away, i actually waited to get the 23” replacement. After few days i picked it up, came home, plugged it in, and again...more troubles. The white background didn’t match at all. The 30” was white, with that annoying shift towards blue on the left, and the 23” was just yellowish/pinkish.
Off the the apple store yet again. First, we dealt with the 23” - waiting for yet another replacement. Then the 30”. I tried 2 monitors in the store and BOTH had the same blue shift on the left. The backlight bleeding was uniform on those two new, but that shift was present on both. I wasn’t happy, but i took the 2nd display (3rd 30” i tried) just to see how i’d feel using it...and so far, I can’t stand it. All i see is the blue on the white background.
just today i replaced my old sypder 2 with eye-one display 2 calibrating device. I ran multiple tests on the 30” monitor (center, bot/bottom left and right) and found out that the left side of the monitor is quit a bit different. The blue linear curve on is quite a bit off at the top (at about 240) on the left calibration point comparing to the center. Reds and greens are off in colorant tristimulus (when checking the profiles), and the tristimulus value is off towards the blue on left calibartion when looking at the chart. It's there, it's visible.
Now, i’m trying to calibrate the 23” and 30”, trying to get the same white look. No luck!
This is driving me insane. Same panel technology, same manufacturer, two different colors. And the 30”....all where made in korea...is it possible its a bad batch or something. I’ve never seen anything like this with any display I owned or worked on, from a cheap 200$ panel to 1000$ 24” - none had backlight bleeding, much less any color shifts.
I do a lot of post image post processing (advanced amateur photographer), and this is simply unacceptable. As far as I'm concerned i own 3.5 thousand pixels that are complete worthless...
I’ll hit the apple store tomorrow with the 30”, again. I don’t think i’m expecting a lot from a 2,000$ display.
I’d really appreciate help, comments, anything that could help...
Thanks
adrian

Update:
picked up a brand new 30" - this one is great - uniform backlight, no weird colour shifts, just ever so slightly less bright at corners, no dead/stuck pixels. later on today I'm going to pick up the new 23" that just arrived...will test it in store.
adrian

Playback only working for audio / nothing on screen or MXO-ACD external?

Last week I finished hooking up the MXO to my external 23"ACD. Everything was great; footage playing in the timeline appeared on the external display; footage in the viewer played on the external monitor.
Today I load some additional HD footage and the external monitor is black - plus when I try to playback, even within my primary display, audio is playing but video is not.
External is set to MXO uncompressed 1920x1080 23.98fps RBG; source is Sony EX1 with same res and speed. Even the footage I loaded last week will not play in FCP now.
I'm hoping there is some stupid thing I did that is easy to correct! But I'm not aware of doing anything to the setup from last week.

the solution: You must have "mirror on desktop" enabled in settings. Even though this normally results in a simple passthru of the DVI image, when the external monitor is connected thru the MXO, you get the full proc amp / color calibrated image.
Yes, all the other settings have to match the footage, but that's not the hard part. This setting was a bit counter-intuitive, let's say.

Spyder2PRO worthwhile for 20" ACD"?

I recently purchased a 20" ACD to to better edit photos on my 17" PB G4. I was about to order Spyder2PRO from B&H but then saw on a message board that Apple ACDs only allow calibration of brightness and that a pro calibration tool is not worth using on ACD. Is this accurate? I don't want to throw away $200. thanks, ralph
1.67 GHz 17" PB & 20" ACD, PowerMac Dual 2.5 & 23" ACD, Fuji F31fd Mac OS X (10.4.9) Airport Extreme Base Station and Airport Express

"...Apple ACDs only allow calibration of brightness and that a pro calibration tool is not worth using on ACD..."
I think you misunderstood. Brightness is the only adjustment you can make using the display's controls. Calibration is a whole 'nuther thing. The two bills will be well spent......

20" ACD brightness / Eye-One 2 problem

So I go to do my normal calibration with my Eye-One Display 2 on my 20" ACD and it goes fine, although I am surprised to see that the brightness level has fallen to like, 75cd/m2. So I turn up the brightness to 120, calibrate. Fine. Then I go to do a second profile (at D50) and when it gets to the brightness calibration, it says I'm down to 113cd/m2! What's going on!? Did my monitor drop from 120 to 113 in 2 minutes without my noticing? Or is the Eye-One broken/dead/unreliable? Or am I missing something else..?

Oh - btw - I didn't move the calibrator so it can't be inconsistencies in the backlight unless the backlight is fading uniformly.

Brightness of MBP display vs. 23" ACD

I was under the impression that these two should have similar brightness. However, my 23" ACD is much brighter. Is this normal or do I accidentally have some settings tweaked on my MBP. I just got it and have made sure that the display is turned on all the way (using f2). Any suggestions?
Frankie

When calibrating my MBP display with ColorEyes and a Spyder2 I only get 157 cd/m2 while my 23" ACD will top 300 cd/m2.
Furthermore, the MBP has very low saturation, little contrast and a strong green color cast. Compared to the ACD this is very obvious.
I have tried about everything possible to match both display, but to no avail. The culprit seems to be the factory colour profile "Color LCD-42715C0.icc" which can be found in "Library/ColorSync/Profiles/Displays". No matter what I do to it, even deleting it won't change anything. It will be recreated next time I start my MacBook Pro.
Regards,
Roman

MBP Display Colors, should the be the same as ACD?

Greetings everyone.
Just bought my 1st Mac laptop (15" MacBook Pro). Before that I have a year of experience with Mac Pro. I've noticed an interesting thing - colors on mbp are little desaturated. I've set up color calibration on both MBP display and 23" ACD identically. But colors are different. Is this normal? Desaturation is about 10% comparing to ACD. Everything else works well.
Thanks in advance.

It's true, a laptop LCD can't perform as well as a desktop. You can calibrate to the same specs, but they will appear different because the desktop monitor will be able to calibrate closer to the target specs. See the interactive chart at the middle of this page.

Problems with ACD 20"

On July 21 I bought a 20" ACD from our local apple store, I got it home and hooked it up to find multiple stuck + dead pixels as well as a pink hue on the right side of the screen and a cyan hue on the left with a blue vertical band running down the screen left of center. I took it back and they exchanged it, I got home, hooked it up and this one had the exact same thing minus all the dead / stuck pixels. I took it back and they exchanged it, I got home and this 3rd one had the exact same thing minus the dead / stuck pixels. I took it back and they gave me a refund.
Today I went to an authorized apple reseller here and bought a 20" ACD hoping it came from a different batch, I got it home hooked it up and this one had the same thing except the vertical band was 3 times wider and right of center, plus the screen was crooked. I took that one back 20 minutes ago and they opened a new one for me to inspect before exchanging it and this one had the same problems. They seen the problems and refunded my money.
What is apples problem with quality control? Are they too focused on secondary products like the ipod and iphone? It seems their quality control with respect to displays is really horrible lately. All the gas and time spent on trying to get something decent from apple has been a real pain.
Message was edited by: Mayor Mc. Cheese

All of the ones I bought and had to return looked exactly like the problems described on this page:
http://www.dreamlight.com/insights/bugs/hd23.html
It's like the problems the 23" displays had except it was on all of the 20" displays I attempted to purchase over that period of one week. Every single one had horrible blue(ish) vertical band(s) either just left of center or in the case of two of the last ones I tried left of center AND the entire right side about 5 or 6 inches was also blue. Not to mention every single one of them had bad pink hues in the grays or shadows and it would not calibrate out, if you did try to calibrate the pinkish hue out that only made the blue bands more distinct. I felt bad taking all of those displays back since I honestly wanted one bad enough to make the 20 minute trip each way per monitor to keep trying to get one which worked. Extremely frustrating and VERY disappointing with respect to my loyalty to apple and playing the cinema display lottery... I still love apple but PLEASE work on quality control, I can't speak for everyone but I myself would be more than willing to pay a bit more for something which is held to a higher quality standard. Maybe move production OUT of China and to Europe or the USA? I ended up buying 2 samsung 21.6 inch 216BW displays for $100 less than the one 20" ACD and while the panel isn't a supposedly superior "s-ips" the things BOTH worked right out of the box with no blue bands or pink hues, a slight blue hue was present but that calibrated right out and not a single dead or stuck pixel on either one. I'm not a professional photographer or anything but I can't see a bit of difference between the ACD and the 2 samsungs when looking at a photograph. The gradients are good and colors are excellent.

15 McaBook Pro working with 23" ACD

Hi All, I posted a similar post several months ago, but got no response.
I am a photographer, and I have a 15" MacBook Pro 2.2 Core Duo/4GB Ram and I love it!! A truly great machine. But there is a huge difference in the look of the 15" LED screen compared to my 23" display? I'm trying to get them closer.
I run my MBP in 'dual monitor' mode, so I am seeing the same images side by side.
Is there just some 'trick' to getting the dynamic range, and the color saturation out of the 15" LED screen so it compares to the 23" ACD. Currently, I wouldn't trust my MPB to edit color images on. Understand, I'm not saying the colors are 'off', there just not as 'on' as the 23" ACD.
I hardware calibrate both monitors at the same time, using the same hardware system. They are calibrated to 6500K 2.2 gamma. And pretty much, anyone who looks at the MBP 15" by itself, says it looks "great!!". But, compared to the ACD 23" in side by side, it's dramatically different in overall richness and dynamic range, and in particular the color saturation. And this is true when simply sliding an image from one screen to the other. Or even with the look of the basic colored folders in 'Column view'.
So how do I get that Cinema Display 'look' from the 15" LED technology? Is it remotely even possible, to get it closer?
Or, is it simply just not to be?
Other forums have discussed the technical reasons why. One poster suggested adjusting the contrast on my MBP, and told me the keyboard shortcuts. But it adjusts the contrast on the 23" display at the same time. Is there a way to adjust the contrast and/or saturation on the MBP without the 23" ACD being affected. Obviously, the system allows for separate profiles and calibration. Along with 'brightness' adjustments. I would like to adjust the contrast and saturation as well.
Thanks for your suggestions and help.
-Sol
Sol

Thanks for the feedback.
Newer technology or not, the MBP LED screen just doesn't hold up to the ACD 23". Less contrast. less saturation, and some colors are just off a bit. And unfortunately, being that I'm a photographer, being off 'just a bit', just doesn't cut it.
For example, reds on my ACD, such as the color of an apple, has a definite although slight, orange cast to it, more of a fire-engine red. Not dramatic, but obviously wrong when you doing color editing for photos, in particular portraits and skin tones.
So back to my original question. I'm hoping someone here has the Guru calibration insight for working with two monitors.
When calibrating the two monitors, MacBook Pro 15" and Apple 23" Cinema Display, using a hardware calibration system, the Apple System preferences give you two color-calibration dialog boxes. One on each screen. You can adjust 'Brightness" individually on each screen as you calibrate, but not the 'Contrast'. Now by using the keyboard 'shortcut' of Controloption+command'comma' or 'period' you can adjust the contrast up and down. But, it adjusts both monitors at once. My ACD does not need the extra contrast. Which means currently, I can't use it.
So, can the MBP be adjusted separately? Since the ACD adjusts with the MBP, when they're connected together, I would assume that the ACD would be affected by this adjustment even if it wasn't connected. As in, the new 'Contrast' setting would apply to the ACD when re-connecting it to the newly adjusted MBP.
There are no visual indicators of the 'Contrast' level, as in numeric, or bars (like the 'Brightness' has), so it's hard to tell 'exactly' where your at with the 'Contrast' levels.
And finally, if I adjust this keyboard 'Contrast' control, is it possible to reset it to factory afterwards (just in case)?
Bottom line is my ACD 23" looks fantastic, and I don't want to screw it up in the process.
Thanks

Pink Tint 23" ACD (when compared to dell 2408WFP)

I purchased my 23" aluminum ACD back in 2005. I have the M9178LL/A model.
I never thought I had a problem with this display. I am a video editor and it always seemed to serve me well. However, I recently purchased a secondary monitor, Dell 2408WFP (only because the ACD 23" have been discontinued) and was shocked to realize that when placed next to my ACD, it's very obvious that the colors are way off. The ACD has a very obvious pink overtone about it. Whites especially, but overall it is very off. This also seems to dull other colors. Projects that I worked on in the past all look slightly off color-wise on the new monitor because of this. It seems the compressing of files to H.264 saved me from my work being a complete mess to the world (as compression usually slightly dulls colors, and all my raw projects are way over-saturated because of the dullness of this display).
Some quick reading makes me realize that this was an issue with a group of ACD's and I'm wondering if there's any chance apple would care that my monitor is not giving (and has never given) accurate color representation - even though I'm only noticing it 4 years after purchase. And what my options are (if any) at this point. Upon realizing this I re-ran the color calibration in advanced settings which I haven't done since the original purchase, no change - it's the display. Not it's calibration settings.
Thanks for taking the time to look this over, looking forward to your opinions.

I guess it partly depends on which specs are important to you.
The Samsung seems a typical consumer oriented display, ideal for playing games and watching movies, due to the pixel response time and bright colours etc.
The Apple seems more pro oriented with faithful colour reproduction, wider viewing angles (typical not 'up to') and a list of accreditations as long as your arm. Also I expect the 'high gloss' enclosure of the Samsung display may be thought of as an unwelcome distraction on an Apple display.

Calibrating a 23" ACD

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