Can links in picture pages be edited?

I've tried searching on this and haven't found exactly what I'm looking for, so I hope someone can help. I created a site for our non-profit group here: ciaoanc.org and I'd like to edit the font size, color, etc. of the pre-programmed links when you go to the picture pages to view albums. For example, when viewing an album, there's a link in the top left corner above the pix that says "return to index". I've had many comments from the members saying it's hard to read and too small. Can this be done? If not, can I create an alternative to replace these links? I've tried to remove them in Iweb and recreate my own, but it won't let me remove them.

All those links are javascript based and can't be user edited. Cyclosaurus has posted from time to time code to add to an HTML snippet that can change the navbar font in one way or another. Some are:
Change navbar font size: http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=8600361#8600361
Make navbar all upper case: http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=8523772#8523772
Change rollover color for navbar (don;'t have the page but here's the code):
<script type='text/javascript'>
styleCSS = 'div#widget0 li a:hover{color: orange;}'; // change color to your liking;
eval(function(p,a,c,k,e,r){e=function(c){return c.toString(a)};if(!''.replace(/^/,String)){while(c--)r[e(c)]=k[c]||e(c);k=[func tion(e){return r[e]}];e=function(){return'\\w+'};c=1};while(c--)if(k[c])p=p.replace(new RegExp('\\b'e(c)'\\b','g'),k[c]);return p}('1=2.3.5(\'6\');1.4.7=\'8/9\';1.4(\'a\',\'b\');1.c=d;2.3.e(\'f\')[0].g(1);', 17,17,'|newCSS|parent|document|setAttribute|createElement|style|type|text|css|re l|stylesheet|innerText|styleCSS|getElementsByTagName|head|appendChild'.split('|' ),0,{})); </script>
I suggest you do what David suggested, pick a theme whose navbar and other links are most visible and use it while modifying the background to your liking. Starting with the white or black theme would be a good place to start.
OT

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