Clarification on QT Pro

I just want to make sure I understand all this correctly.
I am using Final Cut Express 1 and DVD Studio Pro 2, primarily on a Mac Mini using OS 10.3.9. The original QT Pro key supplied with DVD Studio was for 6.3 I believe. I must have inadvertantly upgraded QT to version 7 (losing Pro) along the way.
If I get the latest Quick Time and purchase a Pro key, will this give me back MPEG2 export capabilities automatically in Final Cut? Will the MPEG2 option simply reappear in the Export options once I enter the key?
On another computer I lost the use of Quick Time altogether during an upgrade, and it took down Itunes, Final Cut and QT Player with it. I've seen people advising uninstalling QT and then reinstalling it, but how do you uninstall something completely on a Mac? I know there is an uninstall option on PC's.
Also, does the same QT Pro key work on the different versions of QT (7.4 currently) required by the different OS's (Leopard, Tiger, Panther)? Am I requred, for that matter, to buy a different key for each of the Mac's that I have?

I'm not sure what you should get with that combination of software. The MPEG2 export went away Because when Compressor came out it took on that job, and so QuickTime 7 didn't have that feature. You might try tracking down a copy of QuickTime Player 6, that may give you both your Pro features back, and the MPEG2 export, but I'm not positive.
If you do get Pro for QT7, and yes, you do have to buy it again, there isn't a 6 - 7 upgrade, it will work for anything running any 7.x version. There were different versions for OS9 and Windows, but if you're getting the OS X one, then it should work on any OS X machine.
I've tried to avoid reading the small print, and I think of QT Pro as being single user license, not single machine. I may be wrong about that, but I try to live with the guilt of having the same number of my home machine as well as my MacBook Pro!
You can't easily uninstall QuickTime. There's a thing called Pacifist I think, that you could look into, but other than that the only way really is to do a system archive and install. That would keep your settings and applications, etc, but would install the QuickTime that came with that OS release. For example, if you wanted to downgrade a 10.5.1/QT 7.4 machine to be QT 7.3, you would do an archive and install of 10.5, and then apply the 10.5.1 update, but go into the options to turn off the updating of QuickTime. Or something on those lines. You could look at pages like this to get more help on that:
http://www.macfixit.com/article.php?story=2008011811151896

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Pre-08 G5's and Benzene?

heard on the news the other night that investigation is being done to determine if there's a health hazard here - I'm very concerned, because my wife got her G5 quad back in early 06, and she spends hours to days at a time holed up in her studio with that computer (she's a composer and uses the computer and music programs extensively). Has anyone else heard anything more on this?
Message was edited by: Gail Burt

Quick clarification:
The Mac Pro and the PowerMac G5 (or just the G5) are two completely different Macs, only similar in look. (To tell which one you have, look at the front. If there's two optical drives on the top, it's a Mac Pro. One? It's a G5.)
I doubt the G5 had any of that benzene in it, but I could be wrong. Pretty much every Mac Pro has a chance of benzene included though.
I'd just brush it off as a minor issue unless I'm diagnosed with cancer. But then again I'm a slightly suicidal idiot, so...

Why does the Ni-Motion Torque-Control Program give me such an oscillation???

Hello,
I really hope to find somee help here...I have a UMI-7744 and I would like to do force control for a servo motor. I have tried the NI-Motion example "Torque Cntrl Using Monitoring Force"...it seems to be quite easy - it constantly measures the current force and compares the ADC-values with the target force. The difference between the two is then new relativ position...
When I test it with an actuator that does not touch the workpiece (current force==>0N) and then tell it to apply 50N (ADC-value of ~1000) then of course it starts moving towards the workpiece, but then overshoots quite significantly when it touches it, then undershoots, then overshoots, then undershoots....etc....
(1) Apart from the big overshoot, I would have assumed that the failure decreases over time and the force will be maintained at some point, but the actuator keeps on oscilating around the target force with quite high amplitudes.......does any body have an idea for the reason?????....How is it possible that the controller actually approaches the target force, ie. the over/undershoot should get smaller with every cycle...
(2) I was assuming that the problem is because I load quite large relative positions (1000 - 0 = 1000) while the actuator is not yet in contact with the workpiece which then causes the overshoot when the actuator touches the workpiece. Hence, I tried limiting the relative positions to +/- 100, but it seems that it does not improve anything. The actuator still never maintains a steady force.Any idea, why limiting the relative positions does not have an effect on the oscillation??
(3) I have seen that the use a delay of 50ms. Hence every 50ms a new target position is loaded. Is there any experience of what the BEST time delay is for motion control???? Is it better to decrease the delay to adjust the relative position more often OR would this have negative effects because the moves don;t have enough time to complete??????
I am grateful for any reply...

Hi Jochen,
thanks for the clarification on the pros and cons of the two Torque control approaches...very enlightening......
To clarify my previous question: I am using the S200VTS-Servo Drive from Danaher Motion. The drive is able to run in Torque-mode, Velocity-mode and Position-mode. In the latter case it needs a "step and direction" input, instead of an analog input. My idea was to setup the S200-drive in Position-mode because in the "Torque Control using monitoring Force"-example the inner PID loop is for the position...so I thought, why shall I setup the S200-drive in torque mode, when actually the PID-loop tries to control the Position.....you know what I mean? It appeared to me, that with setting up the drive in torque mode and running the example code with the positional PID-loop I am mixing force and position....
Kind regards and thanks a lot for your efforts.
Well, let's take it like that: The second approach is ok, if the dynamics of the torque are very low. The worst case scenario for this approach is a solid actuator pressing against a solid workpiece. When these two pieces meet, a force occurrs almost instantaneously. That means, that very short move distances result in high force differences. With your current approach this means that it's very hard to control the force, as in fact the only way to generate force is to move the axis a bit. If you control the force directly instead (analog feedback), you will get a much better control behavior.
To clarify the idea behind that:
Just think of two metal plates lying on each other on the floor. Now you step on the upper metal plate. Does the upper metal plate move? No. Is there a change of the force applied to the lower plate? Yes.
To summarize: 'Torque Control using monitoring force' works best in systems with very low dynamics and a soft contact between actuator and workpiece. still all the limitations that I have mentioned in my first post are true, so I strongly recommend to use analog force feedback.
Your last statement about running the motor in position or torque mode is not clear to me. Are you referring to operation modes of your drive (by the way, which drive are you using?). In this case the clear recommendation is to configure your drive always in torque mode, regardless of the type of control provided by the 73xx device that you are using. From a drive's point of view 'torque mode' means, that the analog input voltage (command input) is converted into a proportional current signal and that's in both modes the best option.
Jochen

MSI Pro-E Chipset Cooling (Need Some Major Clarification Here Before I Begin)

Hey guys, about to bring up a very well known issue here, which brought about many 'heated' debates, no pun intended :P I know there has been many threads on this issue for nearly 2 years now, and well, i did tons of reading on the subject, starting with this classic thread here: https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=126885.0 and various others. I'll try and keep this as short as i can and get right to the point. I know what needs to be done, and the method i will be going with (though i am still debating with some options on the final decision), so i wont even bother going into all of that and save myself and you guys some time here. I am quite certain that HU16E has seen more than enough of these threads, and that every time he sees one, he probably gets a brain ache (sorry man )
But basically, i want to remove the stock heatsink on my X58 Pro-E mobo, and replace BOTH the NB and SB heatsinks. This is something very simple to do, take maybe no more than half hour to get it all removed, put the new TIM on, reseat it, etc, and i am all done. The only problem is having to gut the system and put everything back, which takes even longer to do and is something i am not looking forward to doing, but i am just not comfy with an idle temp of 78c-80c, so i want to take care of all this asap. Yes, i know that is under Intels specs, and yes, it IS working, but i haven't even bothered to play any games on this new system yet, because i know if i was to fire up a power hungry game, that the temps would be well over 90c, and that is just NOT GOOD.
What i want to be sure of, and the main question here, is do any of you know, FOR CERTAIN, which heatsink will fit this mobo without any blood, sweat, tears, tedious modding and cussing up a storm and throwing temper tantrums? Or even worse, getting the heatsink and having it not fit at all? That is something i want to avoid, as it just wastes more time having to send it back, look for another and just creates more hassle. If i do decide to actually hacksaw the heatpipe that links the stock NB/SB together, well at that point, there is no going back, and when i go to put the new heatsinks on and they wind up not fitting, i am basically screwed and wont be able to use the pc for days until finding the right one, so again, i want to avoid all of that.
In that thread i linked to above, he mentions he used that Thermalright NB heatsink, but the problem here, is that he was using the Eclipse mobo, which is not the one i have. I seen some others in that thread saying that they had the PRO-E, but never went into enough detail that they used that same heatsink. It seems like it would fit ok, but 'seems' isn't good enough, and i need to be certain it would. Looking in the system right now, i can lower the gfx card to PCI-E slot 2, to make even more room, so shouldn't be a problem i would think.
But then i came across this thread, and found it quite interesting: https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=129044.0
Now this person used that Thermaltake Spirit 2 NB cooler, but it seems Thermaltake yanked that off the market, because the link to newegg in the thread, now shows it OUT OF STOCK/DEACTIVATED. Also if you go here:
http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/Product.aspx?S=1231&ID=1901 and click the pic of the old Spirit 2, it then leads you here: http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/Product.aspx?S=1231&ID=1901 , so they obviously recalled the other one for whatever reason. I am guessing because that one was copper, and this one is aluminum and also smaller and virtually do the same job as the other. This one seems really nice and would definitely be the one i would like to go with, since it has a 40mm fan on it all in one, unlike the Thermalright, which doesn't come with a fan (but can use an 80mn fan as well with the mounting contents it comes with). Based on what i have been reading about this issue, if i reseat everything properly, use AS5 and make sure the fans are blowing properly, this Thermaltake heatsink should have virtually the same effect as the Thermalright would. Of course, this leaves the SB completely exposed, which leads to me part 2 of this person's post. He linked to this NB/SB cooler, which is just about the same size as the stock SB cooler, and he 'claims' it fits just fine:
http://www.xoxide.com/enzotech-cnb-s1l.html
There is also another model by the same company, which has a small fan on it too:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835708006
The first one would definitely fit, at least where the gfx card is concerned, albeit, barely. Not sure if the one with the fan would, but then again, based on all that i've read so far, that seems like overkill, since the SB doesn't get hot at all, only lukewarm at this point, and a decent heatsink is all that is really needed. However, i say this person 'claimed' it fit, 'supposedly', because he never posted pics when asked about it, and then disappeared from his own thread shortly after. And what spoiled the whole read for me, was another person posting this:
"The enzotech low profile heatsink will not fit on the south bridge because the hole to hole diameter is too large for it to match up against the mounting holes of the south bridge on the x58 boards.
The Enzotech CNB-S1L has 2 possible hole-hole diameters: 54.6 mm and 59mm. However, the mounting holes on the mobo are only 49mm apart. So the Enzotech heatsink designed for the northbridge will not fit on the south bridge.
If you somehow managed to make it fit, please post pics."
So yea, now i can't be certain that heatsink would fit on the SB, and if this guy was telling the truth, if he did his own modding to force it to fit, or what. Yes, i can hacksaw the pipe off, and leave the stock SB heatsink there, but...i figure if i am going to replace one, i may as well replace the other while i am doing all of that. Like i said, i don't want to have to find out it doesn't upon installing it, because that is just unnecessary time being wasted.
And there you have it, guys. Now, i am no expert at all when it comes a lot of this stuff, as far as certain technical aspects go, but many posters here really know their stuff and from what i have read here and on other forums, i feel like a total noob sometimes lol. So all this boils down to, and what i really need to know, is will all the heatsinks that i have outlined here, fit this motherboard properly? I really need to take care of this asap, because this thing running at 78-80 all the time is really going to lower it's life span, and every second that it does, is just one less second of use. Maybe that is being a lil too dramatic, but still, i've seen so many get their temps down to the low 40s and 50s, so i know for sure this board DOES NOT need to be running that hot :-/
On another note, i noticed many saying they wanted to add nuts/washers or whatever, to give better stability and contact. Well, since as i am as bad as it gets with carpentry, measuring, etc, i have no damn idea which ones i would need. I once was asked to measure something long ago when i worked as a laborer for a carpenter and reported back, saying to him '2/3s'. The guy looked at me like i had two heads lmao. Fortunately, i can read a ruler/measuring tape much better now lol, but i'm still no Norm, from This Old House. I hear all this talk of 'spring mounts', 'push pins' 'mounting holes', 'screws', etc. Since i am unable to see the back of my mobo right now (only the CPU area from the other side of the case panel when removed), i have no idea if its using metal screws, or push pins, or what. I see the heatsinks i mentioned here, as well as many others, use these various methods, so im uncertain what would work on this board (if it needs plastic/nylon screws or metal ones). Now, i checked out this youtube vid of a guy showing how to remove my exact mobo and reseat it with new/better paste. It was quite informative. Just so you guys know, i have the older 'brown colored' Pro-E board. The one in the video looks to be the same color. However, i just purchased this board, along with the whole system less than 3 weeks ago, so i don't know how old this Pro-E may be.
Another important question about what this guy did in the vid too. You can fast-forward to where he takes it apart. Looks to me like they are metal screws, but again, im unsure if mine use those. The front of the heatsinks have two holes, those of which i can easily see, and have what looks to be a plastic washer or something on it. It looks 'greyish'. Now, A VERY IMPORTANT issue in this vid, is this guy removed the THERMAL PADDING on the heatsinks. I read here all over the place, that you are NOT SUPPOSED TO DO THAT, as to ensure that the heatsinks aren't touching any components on the board, the chipset itself. As you can see in the first couple comments, the guy says 'Yes, the existing pads were scraped off. It's important to remove the old thermal pads, otherwise you won't have any benefit & it may even be worse.' So yea. all that does is just confuse me more. Considering how gunked up, though, that the paste will be when removing it, i can only image that the stock pad on there is probably gonna be pretty nasty as well too, which is why he probably took it all off. But yea, wondering if you guys could clarify that for me, if that should be done or not. Seems many here were very firm that it should NEVER be removed.
I can honestly i never have had an issue with MSI until now, and they do put out quality products, but i hope in the future, that newer mobos would use better TIM and have a fan added on the NB or something. Other manufacturers do this, some don't, but they ALL should, so i am not just singling out MSI here. We live in an age where technology is very capricious and always progressing, and back in the day, well, PCs didn't require crazy amounts of fans, watercooling, etc. But with things putting out so much wattage these days, apps/games/movies requiring better hardware, which also needs more power and/or outputs a lot too, well you don't have to work for NASA to know that heat is going to be a problem, and the motherboard being an obvious vital component, should be adequately cooled just as well as everything else that needs it. I do love this board, and it does more than enough to suit my needs, i just wish it didn't run so dang hot That's the ONLY gripe i have about it.

Hey, HU16E, and others,
I just wanted to let you know that i finally broke down and attempted this procedure (after a lot of hesitation), and everything worked out perfectly as you said, WITHOUT having to buy some aftermarket chipset cooler. Maybe it was meant to be for me, because i learned a crap load of things in the process and in the end, it wasn't as hard or grueling as i thought (although 1 process was, which ill get to shortly lol).
Once i finally got everything gutted (well, just the stuff attached to the mobo), i then removed it, and hit a wall, because the screws that hold down the chipset heatsink, wouldnt fit any phillips head screw drivers had, so i had to stop, run out and buy a lil six pack of VERY small philips and flat heads. I had assumed during my extensive research on all of this, that those screws used the 6-32 size, which is pretty much the smallest i could find out there. Many pointed out the RC/Model Airplane hobby shops, but nothing i could find out where i live. Those 4 screws differ from everything else in the case. I thought they would be the M3 type screw (6-32), which on the wiki for pc-screws, had said they were commonly used on most mobos. But anyway, i got those off with the right screwdriver, and that was where the 'grueling' part came in.
The NB heatsink came off after 5 minutes of careful wiggling/rocking/twisting to the left and right. I never once PULLED UPWARD, until it was VERY LOOSE, in fear that i would crack the NB die, because if that happened, well, the mobo would basically have become nothing more than a good coffee cup stand). The SB took about 20 minutes since it was cemented on there pretty good. I had to use a wrench and lock both sides of it on there, and then again, just twisted to the left n right carefully, because my hands/fingers were too big to get a grip on the heatsink it uses. Finally, it came off, and i was good to go, but my goodness.....
...not to sound to harsh here, but man, that original paste it had was just terrible, HU16E. This Pro-E i have is the brownish colored one, and so, it had this pink, bubble gum stuff, that was VERY sticky and hard, and i can now see why these heating issues were taking place. Also, the HS itself wasnt as tight as when i finally put it all back. I used alcohol and qtip swab, and also your toothpick method of scraping from the outside, in, to form a clump, which worked well, but the thinner residue afterward was a real hassle to get off there, both on the HS and the NB die/SB surface. Used a butterknife on the HS, but only soft and non-metallic stuff on the NB die, and just kept wiping with alcohol and a microfiber pad for what felt like an eternity until it just basically dissolved and got that nice mirror finish. I used 4 of the 6-32 washers between the stock screw/spring/washer, and believe it or not, it fit very well. It's not loose, the screws head doesnt go through it at all, and once it was scerwed in nice n tight, there was no play at all, so it worked out really well. I mean, at most while it was loose, was probably just a micro millimeter of space while it was around the screws shaft, but again, once it was in there it was tight as can be. I used Arctic Cooling MX-4, since it one of the best out there and i liked the fact it was non-conductive. From what i have read about pastes, metallic-based compounds just arent necessary in this day and age anymore. Also replace the paste on the CPU cooler too.
So i fired up, and well...checked the bios temps, and there ya have it. Went from 82 degrees, down to 48! That definitely made it all worth it. Now i can finally do some gaming/hd content without having to worry about it going into the 90s. It hasnt even exceeded 60 on load, so all is well for sure Also have an antec spot fan set on medium and aimed right over the NB and added a 200mm fan on the top of case, acting as exhaust, so im sure that all plays a part too.
Honestly, though, i really hope MSI is NOT using that paste anymore, because it really is just....well.....ill just say it's BAD lol. It sure as hell would work awesome for some kind of adhesive or glue that is for sure lmao. Maybe MSI should hold onto to that stuff, and give the glue market some competition lol. But yea, as a thermal compound, umm...i just sure hope they switched to a good type of paste for all their future mobos, especially the z68s. I also don't believe that the NB/SB heatsink ever needed a combo type deal, via the heat pipe, as this just creates more tedium. Heck, i dont even think the SB even needs a HS on it, as it doesn't even give off much heat at all. Mine is barely lukewarm to the touch. Not to mention, when taking it off, the heat pipe tends 'move/bend' a bit, and this means the heatsinks on either side will not match up well, or be perfectly parallel when you seat them back on the board. I had to keep bending it gently and standing it on my table til all 4 pegs on the bottom would touch, this way i would know that it'd reseat properly. I hope in the future that MSI will scrap that whole linked HS set-up.
As i stated before, love the board, and the TIM issue was the only issue i had with it, and now since that is resolved, i have no gripes whatsoever. Down the line, ill probably get a z68 soon, and wouldn't mind at all going with MSI, but id like to be assured first that some changes were made to the chipset cooling, because even though this was all a good learning experience for me, it is not something i want to go through again lol.
But hey, thanks a bunch for all of your advice HU16E and other mods as well. I was going to go with that Thermalright HS, and your posts (past and present) convinced me otherwise and the temps are down to what others got them to WITH that same aftermarket heatsink, so you saved me 30USD

Clarification required as to installing Arch Linux onto Macbook Pro

I own a 13 inch Mid 2010 Macbook Pro with the base configuration. When partitioning my hard drive what hexadecimal flag should the 100 MiB boot partition be given and what format should it be formatted to? Also upon running iwconfig wlan0 does not appear how can I get wifi to work? Thanks in advance.

Unless you're installing a new hard drive, I would recommend reusing the factory formatted ESP. (You'll definitely want to do this if you're dual booting with OS X.)
In regards to wifi (and other installation and configuration issues), I would recommend (re)reading the MacBook Wiki. Most of the MacBook specific installation issues have been worked out and documented there.
Good luck.

Clarification for Pro 8 EULA

I'd like to receive some clarification on an issue I
certainly feel deserves it. Please keep in mind any reference to
"original media" need not be digital at all or in any way under the
control of Adobe before being loaded or converted to PDF format.
Please reference the text from the EULA below (on an
Acrobat-installed machine found at C:\Program Files\Adobe\Acrobat
8.0\Acrobat\Legal\en_US):
14.13.1.1 "Deploy" means to deliver or otherwise make available,
directly or indirectly, by any means, an Extended Document to one
or more recipients.
14.13.1.2 "Extended Document" means a Portable Document
Format file manipulated by Acrobat Professional Software to enable
the ability to locally save documents with filled-in PDF forms.
14.13.3 For any unique Extended Document, you may only
either (a) Deploy such Extended Document to an unlimited number of
unique recipients but shall not extract information from more than
five hundred (500) unique instances of such Extended Document or
any hardcopy representation of such Extended Document containing
filled form fields; or (b) Deploy such Extended Document to no more
than five hundred (500) unique recipients without limits on the
number of times you may extract information from such Extended
Document returned to you filled-in by such Recipients.
Notwithstanding anything herein to the contrary, obtaining
additional licenses to use Acrobat Professional shall not increase
the foregoing limits (that is, the foregoing limits are the
aggregate total limits regardless of how many additional licenses
to use Acrobat Professional you may have obtained).
As I currently interpret these lines in regards to form
submission and Usage Rights 14.13.3 sentence a) refers to the
extraction of information from 500 unique instances of the document
or a hardcopy representation thereof. Since this sentence refers to
the Extended Document which is inherently an instance of the file
itself I have interpreted as others have that the ultimate
determinant and initial starting point for scope of these terms
would be the file itself. Many developers are thus designing their
apps to assume the role of file-instance tracking where, for
example, a new package file could be manually created in
Professional 8 from combined documents, have Usage Rights Enabled
and then be re-used as a separate and digitally unique Extended
Document after 500 is reached - per the terms of the EULA. In this
way the instance of the file is tracked and removed from Deployment
when the limit is met. There should be no insinuation in regards to
this EULA discriminating against original media used to create the
Extended Document, as these paragraphs specifically define the
final "Extended Document" or the Deployed file itself as the basis
for their language. I am not putting this in here to cause any
debate, but merely to advise on my own and others' interpretation
of the EULA in regards to what seems to be a very clear
explanation, and a topic of interest to many developers who wish to
make full use of the power Acrobat Professional 8 provides - while
acting in accordance with said EULA.
In short there should be no bearing on the original media or
their likeness (not necessarily digital or under any control of
Adobe whatsoever at this point - as in before being loaded into or
converted by Acrobat) in regards to the final created PDF file as a
Usage Rights Enabled, or dare I say, Extended Document, correct? In
my own professional interpretation as a developer this would be a
correct understanding of your EULA. After all I would hope that
Adobe would foster the sort of development and progression in web
applications that this would afford without having to curtail to
specific languages or existing, marketed technologies.
I would like to hear confirmation or clarification from an
Adobe rep concerning this.
I am mainly bringing this to light after reading the reference
to hardcopy, but this should not be a problem as this clearly
refers to the "extraction of information from...any hardcopy
representation of such Extended Document", which would be after the
Extended Document is created and in regards to it's submission, and
so I am also verifying the ability to use similar original media in
the creation of a new Extended Document (and inherently a
completely new file) to be Deployed as this does not seem to be
contrary to the EULA. I do appreciate the time.

quote:
This is a user to user forum. Have you contacted Adobe
Customer Support or cantacted an attorney about your legal
question? An answer here is not binding on Adobe.
Oh don't worry I'm not trying to bind anyone and I have sent
a request to Adobe Customer Support but was hoping to gain insight
on the re-use of original media used to create the PDF and what
others' experiences may have been in regards to their professional
adherence to the EULA.
quote:
Try asking your question in the Acrobat Windows or Acrobat
Macintosh forum, as these forums deal with the Acrobat Standard of
Professional products and not the conferencing product Acrobat
Connect.
Yes, I was hoping these forums deal with Acrobat Standard or
Professional as I am talking about Acrobat Professional 8, I don't
know why you think my question was related to Acrobat Connect, I
don't even know what that is.
Contrary to what seems to be the "trend" on most tech-forums
nowadays it was my hope that any subsequent replies would focus on
the issue and/or topic at hand, although I would agree that an
official answer would come direct from Adobe. Did not mean to
direct such an official inquiry to the public but I am attempting
to engage in General Discussion here after all. I will certainly
take your advice to push the issue with Adobe, however I am also
interested in the interpretation of developers such as yourself.
These things happen with such a vague EULA - although when I
rationalize the very terms they have defined it does not seem so
vague, which is where my desire for confirmation would come from.
If no one else feels like providing any insight then I will
certainly have to see if I can come to some finality with an Adobe
rep.

Clarification re Pro account

I understand that to publish single or multi-folio apps across different platforms (i.e. Android, iPhone, Kindle) requires at least a Pro level account. I also understand that there is a charge per folio download after the initial subscription folio allotment has been used up.
What I am unsure is about is whether it is necessary to maintain a pro-level account in order to keep the said apps in the App Store and allow for customers to continue to download folios that have already been published.
Essentially, what I would like to know is whether it is possible to sign up for a Pro account for, say, three months only and during that time publish several cross-platform publications. If, after two or three months, a designer were to revert back to a standard Creative Cloud membership, would he/she still be able to purchase additional folio downloads to allow people to continue to download the previously published publications?
Your help is appreciated!
R.

No. The folios are hosted by Adobe. If you stop paying they stop hosting.
Bob

Quicktime Pro Registration - clarification...

I own two computers and wonder if it is possible to register Quicktime Pro on both with one registration key?
Many thanks,
falmvtex

I am about to get rid of my PC desktop which has Quicktime Pro on it. Can I de-authorize it on the desktop and transfer the registration code to my netbook? Thanks.

Power requirements of HP LaserJet Pro P1606dn Printer

Hello,
I had bought this printer from USA and brought it to India.
Now I've a question that whether this printer will work with a 240v of power input ??
Cause in USA HP website it is mentioned that it will work with a 110-volt input voltage: 110 to 127 VAC (+/- 10%), 60 Hz (+/- 2 Hz), 7 A; 220-volt input voltage: 220 to 240 VAC (+/- 10%), 50 Hz (+/- 2 Hz), 4 A
It can be seen over here : http://www.shopping.hp.com/en_US/home-office/-/products/Printers/HP-LaserJet/CE749A?HP-LaserJet-Pro-...
In India's Product page also it is mentioned same.It can be seen over here : http://www8.hp.com/in/en/products/printers/product-detail.html?oid=4110411#!tab%3Dspecs
Moreover on the back of the printer power requirements are given 110-127V ~AC.The pic of it can be seen over here: http://www.storemyfile.org/getfile.php?id=5724&key=4e7b6c045
So I'm in dilemma that whether this printer is a multivoltage printer (i.e. 110v to 220v) or not?
Pls. give me clarification about this so that I can start using the Printer ASAP.
Thanks

Welcome to the HP Forums RockmihiR91,
I read your post and see that you would like to know if the printer supports 240v.
I can help you with this.
Yes, you can use the printer on the 240v, but you will need a power outlet adapter and you will need
the adapter so it will fit the receptacle and converter.
It is not internally on the printer.
Hope this helps.
Have a wonderful day!
Thank You.
Please click “Accept as Solution ” if you feel my post solved your issue, it will help others find the solution.
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Gemini02
I work on behalf of HP

EFI update for the mid-2010 15" MacBook Pro?

Hi,
I was wondering if Apple enabled the Lion Internet Recovery feature for the Mid-2010 MacBook Pros in the new round of EFI updates released yesterday. I know that they already did this for the 13-inch weeks ago but I wanted to make sure they expanded support for the 15" inch and 17" inch model. My doubt arises from the fact that the EFI update is for the Early 2010 MacBook Pros which would technically be a Summer 2009 model, rather than the actual mid-2010 model which is the one that I have.
Thanks for the clarification.

I would agree. Actually, I am contemplating this possibility if Lion keeps annoying me with a bug in Safari where it tires to sandbox the GPU and then, crashes the whole web browser and computer. This iisue keeps happening even with the newest version of Safari v5.1.3 and the last time I encountered this issue occurred in a clean install of Lion v10.7.3 while writing an email on my gmail. Honestly, even though I love Lion and its features; it does not measure up to Snow Leopard's pinnacle of stability and compatibility. Besides the freezing issues I have experienced I also had an issue where my Mac would hang at shutdown and hang with a gray pinwheel (although this issue occurred only if I used the Mac OS X v10.7.0 installer, it has not appeared when installing Lion via the 10.7.2 installer, I am not sure about if the issue resurfaced in the latest installer as I had a hung shutdown when Safari froze and tried to shutdown my Mac, ultimately showing the dreaded gray pinwheel). Let's see what my Mac is up to in the following weeks, so far everything looks Ok and in the multiple visits to the Apple Store I have run hardware diagnostics in my MacBook Pro and all of the gave a clean bill of health to my machine. I can't afford to have the 8th clean install of Lion, therefore the next time Lion fails I will revert to Snow Leopard in a heart beat.

How do I take 300 dpi photos with my iPhone 4s? And how do I export them to my MacBook Pro at 300 dpi to use as I want to print photos.

How do I take 300 dpi photos with my iPhone 4s?
And how do I export them to my MacBook Pro at 300 dpi to use as I want to print photos.
I have been using the standard camera on the iPhone and require 300 dpi to create photo books as the photos are resized according the layout.
Your time and assistance in appreciated.
Thanks

Thanks Tonefox!
After looking at a few of the links I found a mathematical equation that assisted me.
Inches = Pixels/DPI
eg: 3 inches = 300 pixels/100 DPI
Using this equation and the fact that iPhone 4s takes photos that are 3264 x 2448 I was able to work out the largest print I could make with 300 DPI.
Width 3264 pix/ 300 DPI = 10.88 inches
Height 2448 pix/ 300 DPI = 8.16 inches
Therefore, the largest print (with 300DPI) I can make of these photos is 10.88 inches x 8.16 inches.
Which is great!
So is it critical for me to change the dpi in say photoshop or does it not matter as long as I don't go above the 10.88 inches x 8.16 inches?
From what I can gather the smaller I resize the photo the higher the DPI and the bigger I stretch the photo the lower the DPI?
Further clarification will be much appreciated. Thanks

FPS / Stuttering Issues (Overheat , Speedstep Issues ? ) MSI GE60 2PE APACHE PRO

**EDIT**
Unable to post direct image links , please ad HTTP:// before links
Good evening Fellow Gamers and Adepts.
I come to you tonight with a serious doubt , which has rattled me for a while , and after some intense troubleshooting i have came up blank.
Here's the deal , as stated , i have a MSI GE60 2PE apache Pro
Now , playing cs go has been the bane of my existence, i am aware there are heating issues with this laptop , but those have been fixed by a Thermal repaste, a cooling pad and the backplate removed.
Now i have no more throttling of CPU , and GPU appears to handle fine aswell; the thing is i keep having MASSIVE lag spikes in CS:GO , and apparently they are being cause by CPU issues.
Image for clarification .
(Standart situation , notice the relative low fps for a old game)
imgur.com/cJ2Ly80
After a few seconds the following occurs
imgur.com/cJ2Ly80,27y1P5C,aq30R4r#1
Notice the fps drop and the CPU frequency percent alert in game
another shot of this in console so you can see the several occurrences
imgur.com/cJ2Ly80,27y1P5C,aq30R4r#2
now keep in mind that these are the lowest game settings, in Fullscreen windowed mode , if i even CONSIDER putting it on standart fullscreen i get unplayable jitterness and fps that range from 10 to 80 , all in a second.
Now , as i have stated i have fooled around and disabled speedstep in the bios , meaning that the cpu is always at 100%, seeing i have removed the backplate , throttling is not an issue as IXT (Intel extreme tuning) can attest.
note aswell the "active core count" spikes to 4/3 in the exact moments of the stutters, meaning that both problems should , in theory , be connected .
Image for reference:
gyazo.com/e1257716681828d38213bcc0e5fa71bc
Details of IXT
gyazo.com/1f03a344b9ac2642b1a885ee0a8ea078
can ANYONE give me an ideia of whats going on ? i rather enjoy playing with games with friends , but this is driving me up the wall..
Lastest NVIDIA / Laptop drivers installed ; Bios Updated and EC firmware aswell.
Thank you for your time guys x)

My Mid 2010 MacBook Pro wifi keeps disconnecting, and doesn't turn back on. Help.

*Mountain Lion 10.8.2*
Here's what's happening:
I'll be browsing the internet probably surfing reddit (because what else do college kids do right?) and I'll click one of the links I'm interested in:
The page won't load at all, as if I have NO internet connection.
Click the wifi icon in the status bar. Before several networks (not just my current network) would show up. Now ONLY the network I'm currently connected to shows up.
Turn off the wifi to try to "refresh" it.
Turn Wifi back on. Now it will say "Searching for network" and show that I'm connected to a network, but the bars never fill the status bar icon. If I go to System Preferences > Network and try to turn on the wifi there it lets me click the button, but nothing happens.
Get frustrated that the wifi WILL NOT TURN BACK ON and restart computer
Start browsing the internet again or doing whatever college students do on the internet until it disconnects again.
See 1
What I've done to try to aleviate this:
Made a genius bar apointment. I'm out of warrenty, but he did confirm for me that my wifi card is working as expected, and it's not a hardware issue, but more than probable a software issue. He did some cool trick where he went to Library>Preferences>System Configurations and deleted the entire contents (I think this is where the network information is stored according to some of the plists I looked through) then restarted the machine and everything seemed to work ok for a while, but the problem came back. I actually still do this sometimes when it happens but results seem to be the same every time (Plus I have to re enter network information when I do this).
Genius bar guy suggested that I try reinstalling Mountain Lion. Didn't want to get rid of my data, so I just did an install over my current build. This took some time, but it seemed to work for a while, but alas the problem came back.
Genius bar guy suggested (as a last resort) a fresh install. So That's what I did. I backed up my computer (Really I just coppied my documents folder and music folder to an external. I did not use a time machine back up because "ain't nobody got time for dat") and I then formatted my hard drive (Which is an SSD if that may have anything to do with anything), and installed mountain lion again. For a while things seemed good, but the problem came back.
For clarification:
It has happened on multiple networks, not just the same network.
On top of that, every time it happens I have other devices connected to the same network and they work fine.
It has not always happened, this recently started about 2 weeks ago.
I have not recently installed any software that could have possibley done this (I use mostly MAS store stuff with the exception of Bartender, TotalFinder, and xQuarts, but all 3 of those had long been installed before I had to format my machine)
I can't really force the problem, but it seems to happen sometimes after the machine falls asleep, but I know for a fact it's also happened mid use (as described above)
Can anyone give me any kind of clue as to what is happening, why, and how I can fix it?

Years of fine internet use via WIFI then randomly it starts dropping then one day (weeks later) it is no longer accessible at all and even saying "No hardware installed" when I click on WIFI icon at the top right on screen. Here is how I finally fixed it!:
For six months I wallowed in this problem and had to connect my macbook pro to the internet via ethernet cable which as you can image was very restrictive :/
I have had numerous laptop technicans befuddled by this WIFI problem and most concluding with how my WIFI card must be broken and that I will need to buy a new one. The last suggestion I had on the matter was to buy a USB wifi dongle.
So I ended up buying this one, http://www.asus.com/nz/Networking/USBN10_NANO/Unfortunately my macbook pro didn't want to read the install disc and it didn't autorun so it didn't work. After reading more forums I saw that you could download the program from the net and sure enough it worked.. BUT STRANGER when I took the USB dongle out the WIFI was still working!! The program appears to have reminded my four year old macbook pro that it is indeed WIFI capable.
So to find this miraculous program its located herehttp://www.asus.com/nz/Networking/USBN10_NANO/HelpDesk_Download/
Same link as above just under SUPPORT>Driver&Tools
You then click on a file when its downloaded and a file called MAC will appear, then click on install. Within 5 minutes you should have your WIFI back. My macbook pro crashed again today but without having to get the shortest ethernet cable you've ever seen out again - I was able to install the program again and WIFI was up and running once more. Moral of the story - didn't need to spend any money to fix this and not even using the USB dongle.
So happy!! Hope it works for you too!
This also worked on a MacBook that lost its WIFI when a user accounts password was changed and the keychain password wasn't known to them - another random way to lose WIFI apparently

Conecting Mini DVI to HDMI Video Cable with my mac book pro

Hi. I just bought Mini DVI to HDMI Video Cable to connect my mac book pro to my HD TV. I connected the cables and put my TV on HDMI input. On the TV it appears the Snow Leopard Background but I can't see my desktop or the icons. What should I do to view my mac book pro on the Tv? Thanks!

Hi y3p3v3,
On the TV it appears the Snow Leopard Background but I can't see my desktop or the icons. What should I do to view my mac book pro on the Tv? Thanks!
You've got it connected, and you're viewing it already! Connect it up again, and try dragging a window either to the left, or right, off your built-in screen. You'll find that it appears on your TV!
What you're doing is running the computer in "extended desktop" mode. That means that your TV screen is available to put things on, but won't show your menu bar, dock, or icons. Those remain on the "primary screen" which remains your MBP's built-in display.
When the TV is plugged in, go to System Preferences --> Displays
The main System Preferences window will remain on your MBP's screen, but a second one should appear on the TV as well. If you go to the one on your MBP's screen, and click the "Arrangement" tab, you'll see two screens shown in the diagram. One will have a menubar. That's your MBPs screen. You can drag the menubar to the other screen to change the primary screen to the TV.
OR, you can just click "Mirror Displays" and your TV will show the exact same picture as your MBP display. This option is the simplest and will accomplish what you want, I think.
If you have any other questions, or if you need any clarification, feel free to ask!
--Travis

Satellite Pro P100: What is the Toshiba part number for a 2GB memory module

Unable to find any way of emailing this question so I have posted it on the forum. Sure this info should be more readily available without having to ask.
What is the Toshiba part number for a 2GB memory module for a PSPA4E-00F007. That's for a Satellite Pro P100 T2400
http://uk.computers.toshiba-europe.com/cgi-bin/ToshibaCSG/jsp/SUPPORTSECTION/discontinuedProductPage.do?service=UK&BV_UseBVCook ie=yes&PRODUCT_ID=115421
Crucial Memory gives me this module - is that correct?
http://www.crucial.com/uk/store/mpartspecs.aspx?mtbpoid=A332E10BA5CA7304
Found this via Kingstons site - is this also correct?
http://www.dabs.com/productview.aspx?QuickLinx=4P3V
Would really appreciate some official clarification here.
Many Thanks

It must be PA3513U-1M2G. You must check if this module is compatible with your notebook model. I think so.
Anyway I recommend you to buy high quality product like Kingston modules.

Clarification on QT Pro

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