Complicated situation

Hi all, I ran into some really weird problems with my iPod (20 Gigs). I discovered at one point that all my songs were wiped out, basically nothing left. But when I checked the "about" option in the "settings" section, it clearly stated that I have 1.1 GB available space left, but also stated that I have 0 songs. Is there something else other than my music occupying the iPod? Or is it just broken? If any of your suggested solutions require connecting my iPod to my PC, forget it because it now freezes my iTunes whenever I plug it in. Any help is appreciated, thanks!

I dont have a for sure answer for you. But you arent the only one this is happening to. my ipod freezes my computer too, everything just dies. my ipod freaks. it all happened after the january update. did you download the january update and the newest itunes? i did and thats when all this happened. it could have something to do with that. try uninstalling itunes, running a virus software in safe mode if you can if you have any software to. then try reinstalling the itunes. (original that came with the ipod). on the ipod updater there should be a restore function. have you tried that?

Similar Messages

Stuck in a complicated situation

I have to come up with a query for report which is dependent on what is selected in the 7 drop boxes.
startdate: enter text
enddate: enter text
Department: Deptname
Group:drop down (values like All, Supervisor, Manager, etc)
Classification:drop down (all drop downs have values like above)
Shift:drop down
Report Category:drop down
Overtime Type:drop down
Sort Type:drop down
So a user can select "all" job types or a particular one like "carpenter"..
If the person selects "all" then I dont want to put a where clause or have a condition/restriction in my query ..
I am not sure how I can have a query for this situation without multiple if elses for each situation.. Any ideas?
I will have to say if group = "All" then dont include condition
if group = "All" and Shift="A''" then dont include both
if reportcategory ="All" and ... and so many conditions??? Is there a way out of this complication?

rephrasing the question:
I have select * from a,b,c where .........
Now I want to add not only d_column = "1" but also "d"
itself after from so that it becomes:
select * from d,a,b,cThen you just have more strings to dynamically generate. Example:
String fromList = "a,b,c";
String columnList = "x1,x2,y3";
String whereClause = "someColumn=? AND someOtherColumn >= ?...";
if (someCondition) {
fromList += ",d";
whereClause += " AND d_column=1";
columnList += "d_field1,d_field2";
String sql = "SELECT " + columnList + " FROM " + fromList + " WHERE " + whereClause;
...

Kind of a complicated situation/question

Ok so here's the deal. I ordered a 5s this morning when they became available. I had hoped to go get one at the store but realized that I wasn't going to be able to get off work and didn't want to take the chance they'd be sold out by this evening. The problem is I recently sold my iPhone 5 and need to ship it today. Worst case scenario is I simply go without a phone until next week when the 5s arrives but I'm hoping to avoid that. I have an old iPhone 4 lying around and am wondering how big of a pain it would be to get that activated on my line for the next few days. Since it's not an LTE device I know it isn't as easy as swapping the sim card. My question if I do activate the 4 temporarily will I still be able to use my same sim when my 5s gets here next week? What will the procedure be to go from my old 4 to my new 5s once it gets here?

Hi seannymurrs,
Congrats on ordering your new iPhone 5S! I'm confident that you will love your new device when it arrives. You can activate your previous iPhone 4 online at your convenience. Please visit this link http://bit.ly/12EqC7I for easy instructions. Your current SIM should be good to activate your new phone as well, just process activation online entering the SIM card number. Happy upgrading!
AntonioC_VZW
Follow us on Twitter at www.twitter.com/VZWSupport

Complicated moving home scenario

I am in quite a complicated situation and was wondering if anyone had experience, or bt experts could answer the question.
I currently rent a property, to which i have bt infinity at 30MB.
My landlord is moving me to a different property for a few months, while there is work being carried out on my current property.
The new property does not have a bt phone line, however it is in an area which can get 76MB infinity connection.
Could i move my current broadband connection to the new property and have a new phone line connection activated, whilst at the same time increasing my speed to 76MB. Then after a few months reduce the package again when i move back to my previous property?
Any help would be greatly appreciated!

You would be better to contact BT on this link and they should be able to help answer your question.
https://bt.custhelp.com/app/contact#h=eyJzdGVwMCI6ImNvbnRhY3RJdGVtTGluazU2MjQiLCJzdGVwSWR4IjoxLCJzdG...

Stolen iPad (bit complicated)

Dear Y'all,
Like the title said, it's a bit complicated situation I'm in now..recently my iPad got stolen, and I managed to track it back to the last location the culprit was. However the culprit immediately shut off the device so I couldn't track it further. I try the Police, but they ask me for proof of ownership..and here is the my situation...:
I bought the iPad from my friend who had his iPad replaced due to product defect. He got a receipt that concisted all the new information regarding the replacement iPad from Apple authorized reseller. The thing is, I lost the receipt...I only have its box that doesn't match with the iPad serial number nor IMEI because it has been replaced... However, months before the event, I registered my device to "Find my iPhone" app... to process my case, the Police needs my serial number and IMEI, and my question is: "Is there possible to retrieve the iPad information from iCLoud?" because I tried and there was not much information you could access into your each device..
Thanks

These links may be helpful.
How to Track and Report Stolen iPad
http://www.ipadastic.com/tutorials/how-to-track-and-report-stolen-ipad
Reporting a lost or stolen Apple product
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht2526
Report Stolen iPad Tips and iPad Theft Prevention
http://www.stolen-property.com/report-stolen-ipad.php
How to recover a lost or stolen iPad
http://ipadhelp.com/ipad-help/how-to-recover-a-lost-or-stolen-ipad/
How to Find a Stolen iPad
http://www.ehow.com/how_7586429_stolen-ipad.html
Apple Product Lost or Stolen
http://sites.google.com/site/appleclubfhs/support/advice-and-articles/lost-or-st olen
Oops! iForgot My New iPad On the Plane; Now What?
http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424052702303459004577362194012634000.html
If you don't know your lost/stolen iPad's serial number, use the instructions below. The S/N is also on the iPad's box.
How to Find Your iPad Serial Number
http://www.ipadastic.com/tutorials/how-to-find-your-ipad-serial-number
 Cheers, Tom

HP Cloud Print Driver for Windows Server 2003?

Hello,
I have a unique (complicated) situation that I am trying to find a solution for.
Here is the deal,
My company is trying to set up a temporary remote branch location inside a building where we are unable to wire a network. Our solution is to use a wireless hotspot. Connected to this hotspot, we will have an iPad and an HP Laserjet M525.
The iPad will be connecting to our Citrix environment over VPN through Citrix Receiver to deliver a desktop interface to the iPad. This is needed to access a few applications that are used at the branch.
The problem now is printing, AirPrint wont work because the iPad is on VPN (and its at a windows interface, not the iPad's).
I had the idea of using the HP printers built in ePrint function to print, so I set that up. So now sending at email to [email protected] prints to the HP printer attached to the wireless hotspot.
Emaling to print works, but ideally, I would like this printer to show up in the Windows Devices and Printers, so that the user can just click print, choose the HP printer, and it will print, (with a delay obviously as its sending an email).
So I downloaded the HP ePrint Windows Driver, which has to be installed on the main Citrix servers so that the users session can grab the printer and use it, turns out the driver doesnt work on Windows Server 2003.
My first attempt at a workaround was Google Cloud Print, which was fairly simple to connect to HP ePrint, but apparently the Google Cloud Print Driver doesnt work on Windows Server 2003 either.
Is there a version of the HP ePrint Driver out there that works on Windows Server 2003?
tldr:
I would like to print to a remote HP printer that is connected to a wifi hotspot from our internal network. I need whatever software I download to be compatible with Server 2003.
I understand this is over complicated but thanks for any input.

I believe I understand your issue. You would like to use a print driver to print to your HP ePrint enabled printer from your apps that are hosted by Citrix server. While I believe this makes perfect sense, HP does not have a print driver that officially supports MS TS or Citrix that also supports the ePrint Cloud path. The reason for this is the ePrint windows driver is a "dynamic" print driver (similar to HP UPD dynamic mode) that handles multiple print paths (tcp/ip, wireless direct, cloud, etc) in a single driver instance by dynamically changing the port the print queue is bound to so the port is specific to the delivery path. For example, if printing to a network printer it will use a MS Standard tcp/ip port. If printing to the ePrint cloud a custom port is used, etc. Well, if you have lots of Citrix users trying to print to a single print queue, but to different destinations, the users would be colliding with each other when they print by having the driver trying to change the print queue to different print ports at the same time.
What you could do is install an ePrint print queue on the citrix server if you can control the access to that queue to just your local branch users. Also, if you only have on ePrint enabled printer the situation is even better as only one port will be needed by that queue. You can find the ePrint software at www.hp.com/go/eprintsoftware You might want to download the version of the driver that supports XP as Windows 2003 is very similar print system.
NOTE: this is not a supported environment for this driver. You would be using it without warrenty or support and no promises are being made here.
Good luck if you choose this path and please post back the results. Thanks!

How to recover Deleted file from HARD DISK

By mistake my entire AVCHD file of 90 Mts duration was deleted from my Hard Disk, this I realised after a week., in the meantime I have not added or deleted any file from this hard Disk. I had given my this hard disk to my service engineer to recover the video., he has tried and recover some 40 mb file., but I cant open this recovered video file in Premiere or any other video convertor programme., also I cant get any information about Video.
Can anybody in the forum help me and suggest how to recover my deleted Video from the Hard disk

Hi, hard disk data loss is actually a hard task for many users 'cause most of them think this kind of problems is a complicated situation. Here are some tips you need to know after data loss happened.
1. If you meet the file loss situation, keep calm and stop using your computer to do any read or write operation until you find the way to recover the lost files because any wrong operation.
2. If you've lost a file, time is of the essence. As new files saved to Mac hard drive or storage devices, the original files gets overwritten. So do not use the drive or disk which your deleted files are stored before at all, until you have completed the scanning and recovery process.
3. The system crashed or the files loss situation happens occasionally, so remember build a backup for the files periodically is strongly needed.
4. If you meet the file loss situation again, stop using the Mac or storage device right now, use another computer to process the files recovery.
5. Remember this, no matter at the normal time or after files recovery, build a backup for the files periodically is the best method to protect your files from data loss situation.
This post offers you more tips you may need: http://www.uflysoft.com/data-recovery-mac/mac-files-recovery.html

Got mixed up with someone else's account, please help!

Alright guys, I'm sorry for the long post, but this is quite a complicated situation now and I haven't been able to get help anywhere else. I talked to a Reddit user who happens to work for Best Buy Corporate, and he recommended asking one of the Community Connectors. So here I am.
Let me start with my original issue:
Back when "Best Buy RewardZone" was still around, my mother had signed up for an account for my family to use. At the time, I wasn't yet 18 and therefore a parent had to sign up on my behalf. My mom never actually shops at the store, though... the only time she even goes there is if she's buying a gift for me or picking something up that I had put on hold.
I'm now 23, meaning we've had this account for probably six years. Obviously RewardZone is now just called My Best Buy, but it's the same number, and we're still getting the bonus points.
Up until about a year ago, the emails were still going to my mother's email, including the rewards certificate. I had created a free account for myself (not associated with any rewards account) in order to buy something back in 2007 or so (before we signed up for RewardZone), so I couldn't change her email address to mine - the system simply would not let me do that since my email already had an account.
What I did in the meantime was just create a second email for myself and change her account's address to that. That way I was able to check it and get my reward certificates, and she wasn't bothered. But, the account was still in her name. Now that I'm older than 18, I should be able to get it in my name. We have the same last name - it's obvious that I'm not trying to scam the system or anything. I can understand if "Jane Doe" wanted to transfer an account to "John Smith" and the customer service rep wouldn't allow it because that's completely sketchy, but why can't two members of the same family shift around who actually owns the thing?
Well, I noticed a few months ago that there was an option to link my account to a different My Best Buy number. So I put in my "mom's" ID, then logged into that account to confirm it. The result was basically two different logins that belonged to the same rewards account - however, the purchase history was still separate.
So anyway, on December 30, my mom and I called the Best Buy customer service number. She explained the whole situation, and was told that they can't change the name on an account - only two letters. This seems a bit suspicious to me, because if they had typed in somebody's name wrong when they signed up, that person would basically be stuck with it forever...
I explained that even though the account had my mother's name on it, I was the one who was making the purchases for the past couple years. I used my credit card or PayPal account, so they were all technically under my name. What the lady said I can do is create a new Member ID, and that somebody could transfer those purchases to my new ID, under my own name. She said that since I already had an account (which was now tied to my mother's ID), what she'd do is just delete my account and then I would sign up using that same email address, and this time not put in a member ID.
I did that, and she said somebody would transfer the applicable purchases (basically all of them for the past year at least) to my "new" account.
It's been almost 3 weeks now and so far, my account still has absolutely nothing in it. I do notice that purchases made with my account have been moved over to my mother's account... the completely opposite direction as I wanted.
A more serious issue, however. I preordered the Meta Knight Amiibo figure (Best Buy exclusive) from the site back when it was still in stock. Obviously now it's completely sold out, because of the high demand. Because the order hasn't been fulfilled yet, it completely disappeared from both accounts. I still have my order confirmation email, with the order number, but cannot actually pull it up online to view the status.
So I called back today and explained all of this. I was basically told "We can't transfer points, period. Whoever you talked to last time was wrong." Well that's great, now my account is completely empty, despite the hundreds of dollars of purchases I've made, because of someone's mistake? This needs to be fixed. The person I talked to today said he'd tie the Amiibo preorder back with my account "in 7-10 business days" as the other person said. I have to hope this guy is actually telling the truth this time.
But what can I do to fix this problem?
This was my situation a month ago.
Luckily the Meta Knight has arrived just fine, and I did get the emails updating the status for me.
I since then contacted customer support via the website, and got an offer to merge the two accounts in my name. But here's the thing... they combined the wrong account! I'm not sure why they thought the other account belongs to me, but all of the purchases were made at stores in Ohio, and I'm not from there. The address on file is somewher eI've never been. It's clearly someone else's account. Oh, and my Gamer's Club Unlocked has completely vanished as well, which I was told wouldn't happen.
So basically right now, when I log in with my email address, I get somebody else's member ID, somebody who happens to have an Elite Plus membership - but no Gamer's Club Unlocked. I've made a couple purchases in-store, but I need some help fixing this problem as soon as possible.
The only purchase I *know* was made with the older account (the member ID that was auto-created when the My Best Buy program was launched, probably?) is that Meta Knight order, and I still have all the emails with the order number if somebody can look it up and find what My Best Buy ID it was tied to. I also have the second member ID, the one I created while on the phone with customer service - and the current (WRONG) one.
You see how this is just one massive problem? I want to solve one thing at a time, though. If one of the Community Connectors is able to move accounts and memberships around, please let me know and I'll shoot you a private message with details. My first priority is simply getting that Gamer's Club Unlocked membership back as I did pay for it and want to buy some more video games, but I've been holding off since I haven't been getting that discount. I can worry about getting the stuff moved over from the account in my mother's name after that.
Thanks

Hi drfsupercenter,
Thank you for taking the time to sign up for the forum and connect with us.
After reading over your post, I can definitely see how everything involved may seem complicated; however, I am confident that I can get everything straightened out for you. There is no reason why you should have to call into us over and over again or wait week after week for a resolution. The terms of the My Best Buy program are pretty direct, so I believe any level of frustration could have been avoided.
A My Best Buy account (formerly Reward Zone) is intended to be used by a single member, and a member is not to share their account, benefits, points, or certificates with anyone else. If the account was in your mother's name, then it should have only been actively used by her. When it comes to merging multiple accounts the name on each account must be the same. While there are occasions where we can change/alter the name on an account, we cannot completely change a name.
I looked over your account history using the email address you registered with the forum and see that two accounts were merged a few weeks ago. If any purchases you did not make were somehow merged with your primary account, then I should be able to remove them. I would also suggest that we make sure the information associated with your account is up-to-date. You do have an active Unlocked membership, so we may just want to have you relink your accounts (My Best Buy and BestBuy.com).
I want to apologize for any inconvenience you have experienced, and I would like to gather some additional information and go over your My Best Buy account with you, so I will be sending you a private message. To check your private messages, you will want to login to the forum and click on the little yellow envelope icon located at the top of the page. I look forward to further speaking with you to see what I can do to help.
How to Link a My Best Buy™ membership to your BestBuy.com Account
I hope you enjoy the rest of your day.
Derek|Social Media Specialist | Best Buy® Corporate
Private Message

This is getting old

First, I want to thank Rosa, the tech who helpe me fix my wife's Blackberry Curve so it was able to complete the system update. And she was a multi-tasking machine as she also addressed my issue with my DroidX.
What I am writing here is in no way, a reflection to the Tech I mentioned above. This is an issue I am still having with my DX. My first one was perfect. Except when it through itself into an endless boot load with the Droid Eye during the Froyo update and it throwing itself into 1X all.the time and having no data transfer. Since then I have had the same issue with the 3G dropping out. But with different issues on top of that as well. For instance, my next one sent to me also had a camera button malfunction - it wouldn't register the keypress/keystroke. That got sent back. I got another. That was having the same issues plus it rebooting itself and acting weird. Almost possessed. That was sent back. I got another. That one - same issue pluss when I go into the Android Market, I would download something ( i.e. Informed ALS Field Guide which I have had for a while with no issues) and the download would drop off. And disappear. As if the download was not even started. Alsong with some "meteor" action while I select icons on the screen and try to type. That one is going back. And the replacement I have now has the same issue with the 3G dropping off with no data transfers STILL. It dropped on me 3 times while trying to type this. And this one is unreliable with the screen selections. i.e. I press on the top right, and a totally different spot on the screen is selected. Sometimes across the the whole thing. And I noticed that the charge slot is quite loose. None of the other ones were this loose. The cord will pop out if I am not carefull placing the phone down to charge. God forbid if I try to use it while it's charging. Because I will deffinately pop out then.
Which brongs me to an other gripe. Why the hell am I going to get a "certified "like new"" phone (especially after all tbis) when I BOUGHT THE **bleep** THING OUTRIGHT. I didn't buy it with the discount. I bought it full retail price. If I buy a package of Pringles® and I notice something wrong and take it back,they will exchange it for a new one. Not an almost full container that was not completely tampered with. I'm just about ready to do to this phone what the old lady did years ago in the Discount Tire Co.™ commercial - throw it through your window to return it.
Before people start saying all the crap about " well, are you in a decent area?", "try switching around some of the settings," "maybe it's an app that is causing the problem?" and other rediculous things, let me me frank and clear. It would happen after a hard reset with nothing but stock apps and system settings. And I was in the Military. I know about characteristics with electronics like this and know my way around this type of thing. And I know that sometime unexplainable weird ju-ju happens with things. Hell, I've seen a piece of equipment power itself on with no remote wired in or no equipment around that had it's frequency. But this is several phones now. And I am extremely frustrated and **bleep** off about it.
This is just strict theory, speculation, and hypothesis on my part here. But I think that it may be something to do with the phone not being able to handle the slight fluctuations in the frequency and signals. My wife's Curve would be side by side with my DX in the same spot and my 3G will drop off completely while hers either has a normal SLIGHT fluctuation but handles it very well, or no fluctuation at all. And when I have both phones going to the same web page, mine will (when 3G drops off) will sit there for a very long time if not forever still trying to load the page (with no arrows either, mind you) while my wife's pbone goes right to it. And it's really sad when you take into consoderation the specs of this phone compared to her Blackberry Curve 9330. This this is supposed to smoke any other 3G phone - 1GHZ processor, at least 512MB RAM, total around 40MB (being modest) available storage. And that's not getting into other spec aspecs and ratios. But her pbone would have a tendancy to get to the page first and have it loaded before mine. Mine would still be outside smoking a cigarette and then come inside to have a cup of coffe. But then decide to take a nap. Which is rediculous. Because WHEN this expensive paperweight decides to hit on all cylinders, it kicks everything else in the junk. And then points and laughs. But unfortunately the performance is unreliable and as predictable as a schizophrenic at a noisy and busy shopping mall exhibiting signs of suicidal idiations (SI's).
Anyone want to go "Droid Golfing" with me? I've been itching to see what this does when struck with my driver.
But if any VZW supervisor actually read this in it's entirety, Rosa did go above and beyond to help me get my wife's phone to push the update on her phone. And she deserves A LOT of kudos for that. Especially because I was "that call." The one any representative dreads. You're watching the clock and you're getting excited because its 5 minutes before your shift ends. You can feel it. You can taste it. Almost freedom when all of a sudden your call light comes on. But then it ends up being that complicated situation that takes an hour or longer to resolve. And she even maintained her patience with me and made sure her job was done and done right before she let me go.....that is before I fumbled my phone and inadvertently pressed the end button ending the call. While I was in the middle of explaining something no less! But she did try calling back and at that point my DX decided that it was done working for a while because I didn't know she tried calling back until ten minutes later when for whatever reason I decided to turn my phone off and then back on again. And then I looked up at the top of my screen. And there was a voicemail. From her still trying to make sure sure it was still updating properly.
Sent from my bathroom via DROIDX on Verizon Wireless

firefighterguy wrote:
First, I want to thank Rosa, the tech who helpe me fix my wife's Blackberry Curve so it was able to complete the system update. And she was a multi-tasking machine as she also addressed my issue with my DroidX.
What I am writing here is in no way, a reflection to the Tech I mentioned above. This is an issue I am still having with my DX. My first one was perfect. Except when it through itself into an endless boot load with the Droid Eye during the Froyo update and it throwing itself into 1X all.the time and having no data transfer. Since then I have had the same issue with the 3G dropping out.
Have you tried updating roaming by calling *228 and #2, this usually helps with this situation.
The cord will pop out if I am not carefull placing the phone down to charge. God forbid if I try to use it while it's charging. Because I will deffinately pop out then.
I have to agree the plug is to loose and kind of a pain at times...I use my dock to avoid this..
Which brongs me to an other gripe. Why the hell am I going to get a "certified "like new"" phone (especially after all tbis) when I BOUGHT THE **bleep** THING OUTRIGHT. I didn't buy it with the discount. I bought it full retail price. If I buy a package of Pringles® and I notice something wrong and take it back,they will exchange it for a new one.
I would guess this is because the device is coming from another source other than manufacture and do to the guidlines of the warrenty Verizon serves as a middle man to cover the device under Motorola policy... Also even if you dealt with Motorola they would most likely replace with a remanufactured device which is the same as a "Like New" from Verizon. This is a common practice these days. Not saying its right but is in the guideline of warrenty.
Before people start saying all the crap about " well, are you in a decent area?", "try switching around some of the settings," "maybe it's an app that is causing the problem?" and other rediculous things, let me me frank and clear. It would happen after a hard reset with nothing but stock apps and system settings. And I was in the Military. I know about characteristics with electronics like this and know my way around this type of thing. And I know that sometime unexplainable weird ju-ju happens with things. Hell, I've seen a piece of equipment power itself on with no remote wired in or no equipment around that had it's frequency. But this is several phones now. And I am extremely frustrated and **bleep** off about it.
After 2.2 update there was a new feature option under Settings / Privacy / Automatic Restore that has been causing a number of issues to continue to return on several device because this option restores system settings that usually caused the reason for hard reset, it is wise to disable this to avoid this issue... I had one device replaced because of this before I identified this as the issue.
This is just strict theory, speculation, and hypothesis on my part here. But I think that it may be something to do with the phone not being able to handle the slight fluctuations in the frequency and signals. My wife's Curve would be side by side with my DX in the same spot and my 3G will drop off completely while hers either has a normal SLIGHT fluctuation but handles it very well, or no fluctuation at all. And when I have both phones going to the same web page, mine will (when 3G drops off) will sit there for a very long time if not forever still trying to load the page (with no arrows either, mind you) while my wife's pbone goes right to it.
It is hard to compare two different devices signal by the number of bars because the device displays information for signal from a calibrated source that the manufactured programmed to their specs and this can cause the number of bars vary from device to device. I have had devices that gave perfect reception during calls when the device only showed one bar. Just something to take is consideration.
it's really sad when you take into consoderation the specs of this phone compared to her Blackberry Curve 9330. This this is supposed to smoke any other 3G phone - 1GHZ processor, at least 512MB RAM, total around 40MB (being modest) available storage. And that's not getting into other spec aspecs and ratios. But her pbone would have a tendancy to get to the page first and have it loaded before mine. Mine would still be outside smoking a cigarette and then come inside to have a cup of coffe. But then decide to take a nap. Which is rediculous.
Comparing Droid X (Full Version Browsing) verse a BB with a mobile base browsing experience will always be slower because the mobile version disables all animations or unoptimized data and also do not forget that flash requires additional time to render but the full version requires more resources.

IPod only recognized as digital camera / Apple Software Update unable to be uninstalled

This may sound like a common problem, but I've done a LOT of work trying to fix it based on online searches. With no avail, I think this problem can't be easily fixed.
As the question states, the initial problem is that my iPod Touch (1st gen I think, maybe 2nd gen, iOS 3.1.3) wasn't recognized by iTunes as an iPod, but only as a digital camera (Windows 7, 64-bit). At first I was content because I didn't have extra songs I wanted to add. But then when I cleared the RAM one day, the iPod restarted with the USB/Connect to iTunes screen. Finally, I had no choice but to try to fix the iTunes problem. So, as most people suggest first, I tried to update iTunes.
Unfortunately iTunes was unable to update. There was a rolling back error, that I traced to Apple Mobile Device Software by using the Command Prompt and logging the install log. Apparently, iTunes didn't have sufficient permission by Windows to delete the necessary files. I even uninstalled iTunes to try to reinstall it, but it didn't reinstall, leaving me with no iTunes at all.
Then I extracted AMDS installer from the iTunes installation package and logged that installation process to find errors. According to an online source, the driver was blank, so I first tried using pnputil.exe in cmd to remove the Apple driver package. This failed, so I manually went into C:\Windows\System32\DriverStore\FileRepository to find the driver to delete it so it could reinstall. Unfortunately, it still wouldn't install.
In addition, I changed the ownership of ProgramData, Program Files, and Program Files (x86) in the C:\ disk to Administrator instead of SYSTEM and gave full permission to myself (the administrator) and "TrustedInstaller." A risky move, I know, but I was desperate. I had hoped that this would give permission to iTunes to modify what it needed to modify, but this still didn't work.
Thus, I tried to remove all traces of Apple software that related to iTunes manually. This involved the Apple files in ProgramData, Program Files\Common Files, and Program Files (x86)\Common Files. Then I tried to uninstall the list of programs related to iTunes (Bonjour, QuickTime, etc). However, Apple Software Update refused to uninstall and gave an error "There is a problem with this Windows Installer package. A program reuired for this install to complete could not be run. Contact your support personnel or package vendor." I fear in my deletion of files, I might have deleted something necessary for this uninstall.
I downloaded multiple forced uninstallers, but none of them worked - the same message showed up constantly. I went into the registry key to see if I could manually uninstall Apple Software Update, but this didn't seem to work either. I was too afraid to delete anymore files...
So here I am again, having walked in a complete circle in this extremely complicated situation. The files I deleted in my first attempt at a solution ended up hindering a possible actual solution. Any ideas to uninstall Apple Software Update, or to solve iTunes rolling back error, or to remove the connect to iTunes screen from my iPod would be greatly greatly greatly appreciated. I can live without iTunes, but my iPod is very important to me. If anyone has a solution to remove the screen without connected to iTunes, or connecting to a different computer's iTunes, I would be willing to take that course of action too.
Thanks!

This may sound like a common problem, but I've done a LOT of work trying to fix it based on online searches. With no avail, I think this problem can't be easily fixed.
As the question states, the initial problem is that my iPod Touch (1st gen I think, maybe 2nd gen, iOS 3.1.3) wasn't recognized by iTunes as an iPod, but only as a digital camera (Windows 7, 64-bit). At first I was content because I didn't have extra songs I wanted to add. But then when I cleared the RAM one day, the iPod restarted with the USB/Connect to iTunes screen. Finally, I had no choice but to try to fix the iTunes problem. So, as most people suggest first, I tried to update iTunes.
Unfortunately iTunes was unable to update. There was a rolling back error, that I traced to Apple Mobile Device Software by using the Command Prompt and logging the install log. Apparently, iTunes didn't have sufficient permission by Windows to delete the necessary files. I even uninstalled iTunes to try to reinstall it, but it didn't reinstall, leaving me with no iTunes at all.
Then I extracted AMDS installer from the iTunes installation package and logged that installation process to find errors. According to an online source, the driver was blank, so I first tried using pnputil.exe in cmd to remove the Apple driver package. This failed, so I manually went into C:\Windows\System32\DriverStore\FileRepository to find the driver to delete it so it could reinstall. Unfortunately, it still wouldn't install.
In addition, I changed the ownership of ProgramData, Program Files, and Program Files (x86) in the C:\ disk to Administrator instead of SYSTEM and gave full permission to myself (the administrator) and "TrustedInstaller." A risky move, I know, but I was desperate. I had hoped that this would give permission to iTunes to modify what it needed to modify, but this still didn't work.
Thus, I tried to remove all traces of Apple software that related to iTunes manually. This involved the Apple files in ProgramData, Program Files\Common Files, and Program Files (x86)\Common Files. Then I tried to uninstall the list of programs related to iTunes (Bonjour, QuickTime, etc). However, Apple Software Update refused to uninstall and gave an error "There is a problem with this Windows Installer package. A program reuired for this install to complete could not be run. Contact your support personnel or package vendor." I fear in my deletion of files, I might have deleted something necessary for this uninstall.
I downloaded multiple forced uninstallers, but none of them worked - the same message showed up constantly. I went into the registry key to see if I could manually uninstall Apple Software Update, but this didn't seem to work either. I was too afraid to delete anymore files...
So here I am again, having walked in a complete circle in this extremely complicated situation. The files I deleted in my first attempt at a solution ended up hindering a possible actual solution. Any ideas to uninstall Apple Software Update, or to solve iTunes rolling back error, or to remove the connect to iTunes screen from my iPod would be greatly greatly greatly appreciated. I can live without iTunes, but my iPod is very important to me. If anyone has a solution to remove the screen without connected to iTunes, or connecting to a different computer's iTunes, I would be willing to take that course of action too.
Thanks!

Security concern regarding my iTunes gift card

I have never used a iTune gift card, so my question may be silly. This is a little bit complicated situation: I have a gift card of a few hundreds, and it was accidentally exposed online.
As you know, at the back of card, there are 16 digits code, which is used to redeem gift card manually. But fortunately, only partial of label has been scratched, so whoever saw the photo, they don't know the whole 16 digit code.
Now here is the question: there are other numbers (such as a long series number under the scan bar), there are also numbers at the left-buttom corner and right-button corner. Can people steal my iTunes gift card without the whole 16 digit codes? Can they use other sets of numbers to redeem the gift card online?
You may ask me to redeem the card to my account immediately, but that is not what I want. I don't have any apple product, and this gift will be given to a friend in a few weeks when he visits me. I just don't want to be embarrassed to give friend a gift card of $0.
So let me repeat my question again: Can people steal my gift card without the whole 16 digit codes? But they do have a picture of other sets of numbers.
Thank you very much!
Here is a sample of gift card (google it online, not my gift card):

iTunes Store: Invalid, inactive, or illegible codes

Unable to restore Satellite laptop running Windows 8.1

I have recently acquired some malware on my laptop, and after several unsuccessful attempts to remove it have decided to try to restore the machine to factory settings.
Unfortunately, I did not create backup media when the laptop was new and the recovery media creator only appears to create a recovery for the system as is.
I attempted to refresh the laptop using the inbuilt recovery tools, but got an error "The drive where windows is installed is locked. Unlock the drive and try again".
Then I attempted a reset and got "Unable to reset your PC. A required partition is missing."
I did not create any recovery media when the laptop was purchased, so do not have this.
I do not have a 'clean' system image to for a system image recovery.
I do not have a previously created restore point for a system restore.
Automatic repair appears to only deal with issues booting the system, but still got an error "Automatic repair couldn't repair your PC" as I was trying anything at this point.
Please can anyone offer any advise of any other route that I could take to restore to factory settings.
Thanks

Huh...it is pretty complicated situation now. Problem is that there is no some special workaround and you cannot force recovery image installation. Either it works or not.
It is a pity that you didnt create recovery media. This is the first step that everybody should do after notebook purchase. This recovery media can be used in such complicated situations.
> Unable to reset your PC. A required partition is missing
For some reason recovery tool has no access to recovery partition or saved recovery data.
What you can do now? To be honest I see only one solution there: to order new original recovery media for your notebook model. It can be done on https://backupmedia.toshiba.eu/landing.aspx

Upgrade leopard to snow leopard with preexisiting snow leopard time machine backup

I was using an old desktop Mac that had been upgraded to snow leopard from leopard a few years ago. Disk utility said I needed to repair my hard drive using the installation discs. I didn't have the snow leopard installation disc but still had the leopard installation disc which I used. When the computer re-installed leopard onto my hard drive, it created a partition: one with my hard drive running snow leopard, and then a new one with the space left over, running leopard. I got my replacement snow leopard installation discs and would like to delete the leopard partition, and go back to what I had before with the snow leopard drive. I do have a time machine backup (somewhat incomplete) and am making a copy of the physical snow leopard drive. I cannot access the most recent time machine backup since I'm back to running leopard and the time machine backup was made under snow leopard. I'm not sure how to proceed from here to upgrade to snow leopard. When I try to upgrade to snow leopard, I'm asked which destination drive to use. I don't want to use the snow leopard drive, since it would get deleted. So, would the leopard drive be the answer in this case? And what would happen to the contents of my old snow leopard drive? Would I end up with two partitions, both with snow leopard, but one being current (nothing on it) and the other being my old drive? Would I be able to get rid of the current drive and then use only my old drive? Thanks in advance for any help.

First of all, it's unclear to me why you cannot select the old Snow Leopard partition.
I also think you should have been able to repair hard disk using the leopard CD disk without actually installing leopard OSX by using the Utilities only.
Also, Why is your Time Machine backup incomplete? Is that under Leopard or Snow Leopard?
Now you have two partitions with two different OSX (Leopard and Snow Leopard). Your goal is to get back to Snow Leopard.
I going to assume that the original Snow Leopard partition is inoperable (this is also question?) I would upgrade the Leopard partition to Snow Leopard. Afetrwards, use the Migration Assistant to bring in your data, documents, app, and settings. Once complete, you should be able to see your Time Machine backups. If all is ok then you can delete the original Snow Leopard partition.
This is a somewhat complicated situation, so I am issuing a caveat that is my opinion only. Wait until another expert provides input regarding your situation to determine the best course of action.

Xbox 360 not fully functional

Hello everyone, I have pretty complicated situation with my xbox 360 and linksys router. I have Linksys WRT54G Version 2 router. I running Firmware Version: v4.21.1, Nov. 6, 2006. I have my xbox wired to port 1 on my router, and my pc is connected by wireless card. Here is the problem, I can log into xbox live while connected to the router. I can play games and send text messages without any problems. However I cannot talk to certain people on my headset, one being a friend who I play with all the time. If I connect my modem directly to my xbox, I can chat with the headset. When I run the xbox live test connection, the test fails at MTU. I got on my router settings and my MTU is 1365. I have increased it, decreased it, and set it to auto, and it still fails the test. I went to security and unchecked the check box for Block Anonymous Internet Requests. Still cannot chat or pass xbox live chat. I have opened up my gaming ports: 88 to 88 UDP 192.168.1.101 3074 to 3074 UDP 192.168.1.101 3074 to 3074 TCP 192.168.1.101 Still effect. I don't know what else to do. My friends NAT is set to open. so it must not be him. I really would like to resolve this problem. Its funny though because I cannot pass the test, yet I can still log in and play online games, text, send voice message, and ect. I just can't chat on headset to certain people. I can chat to some one my head set though. I know it sounds weird but that is what happening. Any help would be appreciated.

lashingpaladin wrote:
I will try to lower the MTU Further, but when the xbox live test fails the MTU test it says the xbox requires 1364 MTU or higher. It must have something to do with the router because when I connect my modem directly to my xbox, then I have no problems.
Hi
maybe the traffic on networking ports after connectin router in between is of some concern?
try enabling a DMZ ip - 192.168.1.101 for the Xbox on router .
and dont mess around much with MTU , cause below 1350 i dont believe it will work anyway.
let me know the status ?
pe@c3
"What u Give , is wht u better start expecting to take back".. - http://Forsakenbliss.wordpress.com

Urgent Help Needed - Frozen disk drive & mouse

This is quite a complicated situation, but i will put it simply:
I woke my mac from its sleep, and went to connect to the internet(wanadoo broadband. It wouldnt do it and went from saying 'connecting....connecting...'on the finder bar in the right hand corner(next to where the time is)and said 'disconnecting...' over and over. This usually last a few seconds but 5 minutes later it was still doing it, so i went to restart the mac.
When it was restarting, it went to the login page, and it never does this, so i went to use the mouse to click on it, but it wouldnt move from the top left corner of the screen. So, i used the keyboard to select it and logged in. Once it had got into the finder the mouse still wouldnt move. The time kept coming on and then disappearing again over and over.
I have tried opening Norton Disk doctor but i can select any options because the mouse wont work and a live update comes up before it opens and i cant select the option of not to use it. I have tried several things, i restarted using the on/of button and no change, i have unplugged all the usb devices but nothing has changed.The disk drive wont open either when i click on the eject key. So i cant reboot from a disc because
1)disk drive wont open
2)I cant click on the apple in the top left corner to go to the restart option and then hold down any keys.
The only reason i am on the net is cos i have used my flat mates pc to hook up on the net so i can get some advice, the apple helpline wont help me as i no longer have apple care plan, and i dont want to go out and travel to a different city to get hold of a new mouse, if it isnt the initial problem.
I really need help because i have work to do and deadlines to meet and even though i have the work backed up on an external hardrive, i cant access it because what i am using is a pc and my work is formatted for a mac. I also didnt get round to backing up all my music from itunes, so i really hope it doesnt come to formatting my hardrive because i dont want to lose all my files.
Can anyone help me please? Im desperate

StreeX,
If you have time, search the Discussions for "Disk Doctor Kervorkian". Symantec Systemworks / Norton Disk Doctor is widely and consistintly blamed for making things worse, sometimes irrepairablly so. (So be grateful you couldn't select it.)
You wisely unplugged other USB peripherals, but did you try unplugging and re-pluging the keyboard and mouse? Also try disconnecting your Ethernet (and phone line if any). The only peripherals should be the keyboard and mouse.
Does the mouse's red LED light up when the computer is on? Try both with the mouse plugged into the keyboard and with the mouse plugged directly into the Mac.
You can force the optical tray to open by holding down the mouse button while starting up. It's also possible to carefully (and gently!) pry the drawer and then the tray open with a fingernail of X-acto type knife blade.
You can force the Mac to restart unconditionally holding down command-control-eject (see Magical Macintosh Key Sequences)
Can you get the Mac to start up in Safe Mode?
With the optical tray open you can try booting from youe OS X Install disc to run Repair Disk to check for errors. An alternative is to boot to single-user mode and run the file system check utility. Refer to Using Disk Utility and fsck.

Complicated situation

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