Contrast/brightness calibration issue

Hello
I have an Apple Studio Display 17-inch CRT with a VGA connection to a recently installed Radeon 9800; and before that an ATI Rage 128. For a long time now I have not been able to calibrate contrast or brightness in Display Calibration Assistant. Basically, the window with the brightness oval in it doesn't respond to increases or decreases in contrast or brightness. Native Gamma, Target Gamma, and Target White Point all respond normally.
I have tried cleaning the AGP Slot on the mother board, and the AGP connectors on the 9800. I've also tried repairing permissions, and profile first aid. So is this a software issue, or hardware issue; and is it repairable?
I do run OS 10.4.11 on a G4 Sawtooth with 2GB Ram, and a 1.8GHz dual CPU.

I'm not an expert on monitors, but I do know tubes and that, from your description, is what you have, a CRT. If the monitor is years old then the cathode may be losing its ability to emit electrons. This will cause problems trying to get the responses you need. It's akin to old people like me just wearing out. You can increase the emissions by raising the filament voltage like they used to in the old days when tv's cost several weeks of gross pay, but that just accelerates the inevitable. Replacing the cathode is technologically possible, but economically the cost would scare you to death.

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How can I manually change contrast/brightness/colors?

I want to simply use some slider to adjust the contrast, brightness, gamma or color balance in my MacBook Pro, but for some reason I'm unable to find it. All I can find is the calibration process, but when I calibrate it "correctly", the screen is a bit too dark so I just want to adjust the brightness/gamma manually AFTER the calibration. How? Where? Please don't tell me that it's one of the "Apple doesn't allow me to do this" things ;-)

VarHyid,
The only way I know how is though System Preferences > Displays
For Brightness there is a slider in System Preferences > Displays > Display ( Tab )
For Gamma and Contrast you have to use the Display Calibrator Assistant found in System Preferences > Displays > Color ( Tab ) > Calibrate...
Although if you use Expert Mode there are more options.
You can fine tune the Color Profile settings if you use Expert Mode. Then you just go through the prompts and adjust as you would like it.
Hope that helps,
Weston
Support Articles,
If your Display doesn't look right: https://help.apple.com/machelp/mac/10.10/index.html?localePath=en.lproj#/mchlp29 06
Calibrate Your Display: https://help.apple.com/machelp/mac/10.10/index.html?localePath=en.lproj#/mchlp11 09

Mplayer too dark, Equalizer(Contrast,Brightness,Hue,Saturation)

Playing videos on mplayer were too dark!
and Equalizer -> Video (Contrast,Brightness,Hue,Saturation) controls were unavailable/not working!
After some research, I found a solution, for both problems.
Using information on this URL http://www.mplayerhq.hu/DOCS/man/en/mplayer.1.html
Open a Filemanager as root, and go to /etc/mplayer and create a file called mplayer.conf, and paste this code inside.
# Write your default config options here!
# eq[=brightness:contrast] (OBSOLETE)
# default:0:0
# eq2[=gamma:contrast:brightness:saturation:rg:gg:bg:weight]
# default:1.0:1.0:0.0:1.0:1.0:1.0:1.0:1.0
# hue[=hue:saturation]
# default:0.0:1.0
vf=hue=0.0:1.0,eq2=1.0:1.0:0.1:1.0:1.0:1.0:1.0:1.0
Remember to leave 3 empty lines at the end of the code, before saving.
Notice I changed the 3rd default value in eq2 from 0.0 to 0.1, this will appear as 10 in the equalizer.
This 10% increase in brightness gave me a brightness, similar to watching the same video in VLC.
Well I hope it helps someone else having the same issue. :-)

since front row just hijacks dvd player and such you should be able to change it in dvd player's preferances. are the tv shows from the itunes music store?

Does iTunes have any hidden picture controls for video playback (e.g. contrast, brightness) ?

Does iTunes have any hidden picture controls for video playback (e.g. contrast, brightness) ?
I haven’t been able to find any.
Since the .m4v file type appears to prevent any video bought or rented from the iTunes Store from being played using any other program the lack of these picture controls - if indeed they are lacking - make it seriously deficient as a video player.

Thanks for the rapid response to my enquiry.
I know that it’s possible to adjust the monitor’s performance via System Preferences but it is rather long-winded and I’d rather not alter the settings for the entire screen (and then have to change them all back once finished) when it’s only the video playback window that needs adjustment.
Since iTunes provides various options using the Equalizer for adjusting sound playback it seems rather odd that they don’t have a similar panel for video.
Regarding QuickTime.
Apparently earlier versions (such as 7) had picture controls but the current version (10.4) does not.
I assume Apple are phasing out QT whose development seems to have stopped - or rather gone backwards since it now lacks capabilities it once had - and intend in future to treat iTunes as their universal media player which no doubt makes sense from their point of view.
I wasn’t aware of the .m4v file type when I made my first and probably last video purchase via iTunes yesterday and didn’t realise that it would restrict my options for playback so completely.
The experience has really put me off buying any additional video from the iTunes Store.
Back to DVDs.

HP TX2000 Pen Calibration Issue(s)

I have an HP tx2000. I reinstalled windows and then I went to calibrate the pen digitizer thing (for portrait) and in the middle of calibration a window poped up. I couldn't close the window with the pen because it wasn't calibrated properly. So, I rotated the screen to the regular landscape view and closed the window. Well, no matter what I tried, I couldn't get back to the calibration. So, I shutdown the computer and tried to calibrate it again, but it wouldn't let me. Does anyone have any suggestions to fix this calibration issue? Thank you very much for your help.

There are more than 1000 entries in google under "hp pavilion tablet driver"each asking for the driver.
More than 300 visitor read your post.
No one answered at all.
Do you think is your fault, or maybe HP and Wacom are too busy to deal with this issue.
Until this issue stays under, lets say, 500 readings, you'll get no answer.
Maybe you thougth they will hurry up for you, and your error buying this equipment for your specific need, and the possibility of sell it out!
It's a shame but, in this business, products go to the market before they get success on real quality tests. We, final customers, are their quality control. And these products are OK unless anyone can speak loud enough to reveal any inconvenience.
Don't wait for any answer until another user, with enough time and knowledge to get it running, falls in the same problem.
Anyway, good luck!!
God, give me patience. But give it to me NOW!!!

How do I modify the contrast/brightness/adjust color of only a PORTION of a picture?

I'm working with Adobe Photoshop Elements version #10.
How can I adjust the contrast/brightness/adjust color etc. . .of just a PORTION of a picture, and not the entire picture?
I've tried "defining" an area that I want to change by using a lasso tool, but when I custom draw an area of the picture, I don't see
any option that lets me adjust the contrast/brightness etc....of that section.
Many thanks for any help.
Kevin
([email protected])

Once you select it, anything you do should apply only to the selected area, or you can create a new layer from the selection, too. So if you make a selection and apply levels, it should only change the selected area. The new layer gives you the option of going back later to change or delete your corrections.
For what you want to do you can also use the smart brush, which lets you select and apply corrections in one go. Just sort through the smart tool's options in the options bar's thumbnail's popout menu till you find what you want.

T510 DISPLAY Issue: Intermittent high Contrast/Brightness

Hi folks - This is my first Lenovo forum submission and I will do my best to describe the problem with my laptops' video/display. I'm all ears for your suggestions.
*Issue*
The display would occassionally dip down in brightness/contrast then change up to a very HIGH contrast level on its own. The desktop icons, background image & browser images become un-sightly bright BEYOND your normal Lenovo Power Manager settings. All the white hues turn even brighter, and some hues are NOT viewable at all on certain backdrops. Usually, it resolves itself after several minutes.Then it's business as usual.
I do not believe it has anything to do with the Power Manager settings (e.g. Idle Time, brightness control, Battery vs AC power, etc.). It simply occurs on it's own then disappears. A reboot can help and so does closing the lid and re-logging into Windows. But who wants to practice that technique after paying over $1600 for a professional grade business laptop?
I found only ONE forum message that came close to reporting the problem, found in the body of a message and NOT as a subject (SEARCH: "screen image fades as if you lose contrast")
Frequency ? - Atleast 4 times a month for the past 3-4 months since my purchase in summer 2010.
OS: Windows 7 (64 bit)
CPU: i5-540M 2.53GHZ
RAM: 4 GB
Laptop model: T-510
Laptop Product ID: 4313CTO
Graphics: 15.6 HD+
Battery: 6-cell
Purchase date: summer 2010
Solved!
Go to Solution.

http://forums.lenovo.com/t5/T400-T500-and-newer-T-series/T410-Screen-flickering-randomly-screen-cont...
W520: i7-2720QM, Q2000M at 1080/688/1376, 21GB RAM, 500GB + 750GB HDD, FHD screen
X61T: L7500, 3GB RAM, 500GB HDD, XGA screen, Ultrabase
Y3P: 5Y70, 8GB RAM, 256GB SSD, QHD+ screen

Monitor Calibration Issue?

When I'm in Develop or Print the brightness and color of a harbor that I photographed look just fine. They also look fine when I call up the printer's print preview window. However, when I print out the photo, the blue water in the shadows takes on a greenish tint and other areas of shadow come out darker than what is shown on the screen. Could this be a monitor calibration problem?

No that is the correct profile. the SP indicates glossy photo paper. The MP
is because this is a multifunction printer. Alas this also indicates the
likely issue. The drivers for many of these cheapo printers simply do not
turn off their color management even if you tell it to do that. My guess is
that what is happening is double color management. The driver is expecting
data in sRGB and coverts that to a printer profile. However, it got data in
the profile already so it gets applied twice. This bug in the drivers only
shows up in more modern apps such as Lightroom and Photoshop CS5 as they
only use the most recent method to send data to the driver and the drivers
haven't been updated to allow the more modern method (and likely never
will). You can sometimes get these printers to print correctly by setting
the driver to expect adobeRGB or sRGB and telling Lightroom to send data in
that colorspace (select show display profiles in the other dialog and enable
those). Sometimes the sequence of when you go into the print settings dialog
matters and the driver will suddenly decide to cooperate as long as you go
by business in the exact same way every time.

Color calibration issues with Mavericks

Hello All,
I found my MBA's color calibration has changed dramatically after installing OS X Mavericks. The shared links, icons at doc etc. are highly saturated. Are you experiencing the same problem? How to solve this?

Did anyone find a fix yet? I'm experiencing the same issues... In my case it possibly affects icons but also photos, and more remarkably so: colors appear too contrasted and saturated, especially reds. Crushed blacks, loss of detail in dark areas, and overall darker images. Both in Safari and when I browse and preview pics in Finder. For whatever reason, the color change is especially noticeable in thumbnails... This is unacceptable for me. I don't want any filters whatsoever. Anyone got a clue on how to reverse this behavior? Please Apple, fix this.

HELP RGB Calibration issue in ACR 6.5

I have a dilemma, I am attempting to calibrate my Sekonic light meter and that is pretty easy but I am having a problem with WB between 3 pieces of software.
1. ACR 6.5
2. DxO Optics 6.6
3. Canon DPP
I have set all color spaces to sRGB including the camera for uniformity)
Here is what I have done ...
1. I took a WB reading to set my Canon 1D MK IV to basically a WB in the ball park.
2. I took a Lastolite grey target and lit it with a 50" Octobox to get balanced light across the grey target.
3. I metered with my light meter and set the camera to the light meter readings
4. Set camera to meter readings (1/60th f/8 iso 100)
5. Took the shot.
When I loaded the image into DPP the RGB settings were 129, 127,125 (pretty much perfect) [see image of RGB numbers] and everything was zeroed out.
When I loaded the image in DxO Optics 6.6 the RGB numbers were 130, 130, 130 (again everything has been zeroed out and those are the raw numbers with the software doing NO adjustments.)
When I load the image into ACR 6.5 however it is a completely different story.
ACR 6.5 gives me the following numbers 67, 67, 66 and wants to up the blacks from 0 to 5, wants to move brightness from 0 to 50% and wants to change the contrast as well.
Can someone give me an idea of what is going on here, if I use ACR all my images are going to be blown out (and have been which is why I am going to all of this effort to get it correct.
I am adding the 2 screen shots of DxO Optics 6.6 and DPP in this post and then in the next post I will add the screenshot of the ACR histogram and the actual image.
I do pretty much all of my raw processing in ACR and then I go in Photoshop CS5, so this is an issue for me.
Hopefully someone can assist me here,
Many thanks
Gavin

I would suggest you post your question on the WebCenter Interaction forum.
WebCenter - Interaction
Brad

Color calibration issues - blue tint w/ sRGB

Need some help getting this issue resolved & wondering if there is a problem with my LCD.
I do a lot of web and video work and recently moved from a 17" Powerbook G4 to a 17" MacBook Pro. Both used with a 20" Apple Cinema display. The color temperature (tint) between the Powerbook and the new MacBook Pro are drastically different - especially when using sRGB calibration which is recommended by Adobe for this type of work. The cinema display seems correct and closely matches my Powerbook when using sRGB, but the Macbook Pro is very blue. The Macbook Pro displays more warm grays vs. the cinema display when using the default calibration settings.
Using sRGB for both displays:
http://idisk.mac.com/edgedesign-Public/Calibration/photo_sRBG.jpg
Using default calibration for both displays:
http://idisk.mac.com/edgedesign-Public/Calibration/photo_default.jpg
*Notice the 20" cinema hardly changes in either of these shots which make me think there's a problem with the MacBook Pro display.
- Are all the new MacBook Pros like this?
- Why so different than the Powerbook display and Cinema displays?
- Any calibration suggestions for Adobe CS3 and screen work?

Brief intro before I pontificate: I have a degree in imaging and used to be one of the guys you talked to at Eastman Kodak about monitor color calibration (before Kodak drove me crazy).
A few points:
First, sRGB is a needlessly small gamut color space invented by Microsoft. In the professional imaging field it is looked at with great disdain because it is imposing a needless crushing of your monitor's color profile. I've talked to one of the color experts at Adobe and he completely agrees. I don't know who at Adobe is recommending sRGB, but they are W R O N G. I personally call sRGB 'StupidRGB' in order to remind myself exactly what it is worth.
Second, the field of color calibration, color matching and color correction is complicated and requires considerable understanding to perform correctly. There are entire books on the subject, well worth reading. You can even take classes on the subject, such as at Rochester Institute of Technology (plugging my Alma matter). If you have shopped around for color calibration devices you will find they are incredibly expensive, and there is a reason for that.
Third, LCD screens generally SUCK for color matching. Here are a few reasons why:
(A) The viewing angle of most LCD screens is so small that if you tilt your head up, down, right or left you end up with a shift in color balance and contrast. Result: no way can you accurately color match. This is most certainly the case with ALL MacBooks, MacBook Pros and iMacs. The Cinema displays are vastly better. You can check this out yourself at your local Apple Store.
(B) In case you had not heard, none of the MacBook or MacBook Pro laptops are capable of showing all colors to which the human eye is sensitive. They don't do 'millions of colors' despite advertising you have read. They do about 260,000 colors and dither the rest. Dithering does NOT create colors that are not there. It just fakes them. The result again is that it is impossible to use these LCDs for accurate color matching. I have no knowledge about whether this color problem is the case with iMacs, but refer to the paragraph above regarding their viewing angle problem.
(C) The color gamut on even the very best LCD display is at the mercy of the fluorescent light bulbs inside the displays. The massive problem with fluorescent lights is that they do not have a continuous color spectrum. What you get are specific wavelength peaks with complete dropouts of other colors. Ye old CRTs with electron guns and glowing phosphors were/are not perfect either, but they were/are MUCH better at representing the full spectrum of light. Their gamut is much larger and more accurate than any LCD display. CRTs remain THE professional display for color calibration and color matching, even today.
I could rant on, but I think you get the message: Color matching on LCDs is a lousy idea, and on MacBooks and MacBook Pros it is essentially an impossible idea. The colors you need are not there on the screen. What you see is not what you get in terms of color. Give up.
That having been said, you can optimize your results for guestimation purposes. The very first thing I do with ANY display, including on Mac laptops, is go into the 'Displays' preference pane, hit the 'Color' tab and 'Calibrate...' the display. You MUST use 'Expert Mode'. Don't bother with mickey mouse mode. Fiddling with the settings will drive you nuts at first. But practice makes perfect. As long as you are not color blind you WILL get the hang of it, even if you don't understand what it is doing. Don't get psyched out. It works rather well.
When you get to 'Gamma' (you can look these terms up on Wikipedia) you want to use the same Gamma number as the other monitor you will be using for viewing. 1.8 is fine for Macs. Beats me why the 'PC' standard is 2.2. It is essentially a harsher contrast, but try it and use it if you like it, on BOTH monitors. Do NOT use 'native gamma' as it is rare that two displays have identical native gammas.
Next up is your 'white point'. Again, you want both your displays to have the same white point. D50 is the standard for viewing images in daylight. D65 is a bluer 'white point'. 9300 is the bluest of all. These numbers represent 'color temperature' as it is called. The sun has a color temperature hovering around 5000º Kelvin, thus D50 where D = Display. D65 = 6500º Kelvin, etc. Again, there is lots to read about in this field. Do NOT use 'native white point' on your displays if you are color matching because again, they won't be the same on each display.
When you get to the point of naming your color calibration profile you MUST include in the name the gamma number you used and the white point number you used. You will want to know, believe me. Here is why: You are going to want to make further color calibration profiles for different situations either now or in the future. Here's one example:
Lighting environment: Are you working on your MacBook Pro in the dark? Are the walls in the room a neutral color? Or are the walls colored? What kind of light is being used in the room? Fluorescent? Incandescent? Daylight? Details in the lighting environment in which you are working will affect how you perceive color on your display! You may want a morning color profile, an afternoon sun profile, and a night profile. If you have windows near you, these different times of day will affect the light in your work area and how you perceive color on your display. Again, go find a good book if you really want to understand this stuff.
A good basic calibration for plain old every day work, useless for color matching but nice to look at: I go through the calibration process for my lighting environment then use a gamma of 1.8 and I check off 'Use native white point'. Why? LCDs look their best at their native white point. You get good contrast with optimum color. Try it, you'll like it.
:-Derek

Display Calibration Issues

hi,
just upgraded to 10.6.8 and lots of issues.
the biggest is that my 30" cinema display now looks 15-20% lighter.
the screen image (especially in abobe indesign) doesn't look like it did in 10.5.8
and looks lighter than my normal print output.
I've played around with display calibration, but my new settings are really different
from my original settings. and of course, now all my indesign files are out-of-sync
with the abobe color settings and need to be updated, each and every one.
I also read that the new 'target gamma' is now 2.2 for 10.6.8 (as a default), but
when calibrating in SL, isn't not default and you need to know to manually change that.
has anyone else experienced these kind of SL display problems?
if so, how did you correct them?
in the back of my mind I'm thinking it's something with the video card, but
I'll try anything short of messing with that.
bottom line: all was well in 10.5.8.
now with 10.6.8, I've got issues that need to be fixed asap.
jim

my suspicion is snow leopard.
Nope, color works just fine. Something has changed in your setup. If you're using the exact same monitor and printer profiles you had under 10.5.8, color should come out the same under Snow Leopard.
While the default for Snow Leopard is now a 2.2 gamma, it doesn't mean you can't change it. It only means the long supplied Apple profiles are now built with a 2.2 gamma instead of 1.8. You can still build your monitor profiles to any white point and gamma you want.
Color matching is actually much simpler than it sounds. Though I should say the concept is simple. ColorSync is what controls color between devices. If you're trying to match your print to the monitor, ColorSync reads the monitor profile's color space. It does the best it can to make it fit and translate to the printer profile's color space.
That's the simple explanation. But in order for that to work, you need accurate profiles. You'll go through an awful lot of paper and ink trying one unrelated profile after another, and still get nowhere. By "unrelated", I mean using a profile that has nothing to do with the device. Such as choosing "Adobe RGB" as your monitor profile. That profile means nothing in relation to your monitor. It does not describe the white point, gamma or brightness you monitor is necessarily set to, nor the gamut or range of color it can actually display. Same goes for the rest of any profile the system allows you to choose as your monitor profile. They are all generic profiles that in no way describe the device you are looking at. I go into a lot more detail on monitors here.
So when you do use one of those generic monitor profiles, ColorSync can only assume, yes, this must be exactly how the monitor looks that you're viewing. Which of course it doesn't. So naturally, printed color is rarely even close.
The least expensive color management tool you can buy, and at the same time drastically improves your ability to match output to your screen is something like this. Of the two models, definitely get the i1Display Pro. Much faster, accurate unit. Also much better software with more control. Don't bother looking at older colorimeters such the i1Display2, Spyder, or any other previous models. They can't handle the output of today's wide gamut LCD or LED monitors. Gray rarely comes out gray. Usually very greenish or pink. These new models have bee completely redesigned to handle today's monitors. They also handle older monitors just fine.

Dell SW198FWP 19" LCD Calibration Issues

Hi,
I have just purchased a 19" Dell Widescreen LCD Monitor (SE198WFP)and I'm not very happy with the display quality. When first hooked up, it's very bright and the image is very washed out. When I use the Apple calibrate utility, I can make the display quality good, but on the first step of the utility, it says to make the oval just barely visible, but the adjustments do not change the intensity of the oval. The other calibration settings do change the display and make it better, but still not as nice as it looks when connected to my Windows PC.
On my old display, LG 17" (not widescreen, 1780U), when I would use the Apple calibration utility, the oval intensity would change with adjustments. Overall, the LG has a better display quality, but it's small and the fonts are a little more fuzzy than the new widescreen Dell.
Both LCD monitors were (are) connected using DVI, not VGA. Does anyone know what is happening?
Thanks for any help.

Those first steps outlined in Apple's calibration procedure are generic and cannot be trusted to apply equally to all monitors. For example, it says to set contrast to its highest setting on the monitor, but that's not always the case that that would be the correct setting for a given monitor. I believe your Dell is recommended to default at a contrast setting of 75. So I would use that instead. Or maybe experiment and try different settings around 75, either plus or minus, and see if that helps.
I think it's more important to try and get the left and right halves of the square containing the oval to be as indistinguishable from one another as possible, more so than trying to get the oval to disappear, which I couldn't get my monitor to do either, for what it's worth. Good luck.

[Solved] Screen brightness control issue

I just purchased a Lenovo T410s. I have set it up to only use Nvidia and only give visibility to the Nvidia GPU. The problem I have is once X starts I can no longer change the screen brightness with the function keys. I'm using KDE and it registers that I'm trying to change the brightness but the screen never changes. If switch to run level 3 I can use the function keys to change the brightness without an issue. I'm confused at what is causing the issue. I'm not sure what information you need to help me, but I will give you what you need if you tell me.
EDIT: I discovered on the Nvidia forums that the backlight function was disabled in the drivers for this model. Apparently when in use it causes squealing sounds.
Last edited by migizi (2010-12-09 13:15:40)

I did some more testing and here is what I found out. I switched my laptop to use integrated GPU only, so that means Arch sees my GPU as the Intel HD. Now I can boot X and control my brightness with the functions keys. Has anyone else run into the problem with Nvidia drivers and the Quatro NVS 3100m GPU?

Windows 8.1 - Brightness control issues!!

Microsoft - Nowhere in all the communications you've posted here have you even remotely taken responsibility for this bug! The first time we go to adjust the screen brightness after updating to 8.1 - the screen goes down to it's minimum brightness setting
and will not adjust, no matter how we try to adjust it. My P500 Lenovo had the same issue. I talked with Lenovo support and they knew the driver that was included in your 8.1 update was the problem. We tried installing an 8.0 driver & a driver
from the Intel site to no avail. Lenovo support finally installed a basic Microsoft driver which solved the issue! My question - at this point - is, if it's obviously a problem related to the 8.1 update - when can we expect a fix? When 8.2 comes up - do we
dare assume that the driver in it will be solving the problem - or will it reintroduce it? As customers who purchase your product - we expect better
communication regarding issues that crop up. We don't expect perfection - just
integrity!

I shall suggest you to uninstall and reinstall graphic driver.
Intel has already come out with graphic driver designed for Windows 8.1 32bit and Windows 8.1 64bit.It is available in Lenovo's website and it is applicable for P500.There is absolutely no need to install the graphic card driver made for windows 8
when the driver for windows 8.1 is available in manufacturer's site.
Intel Video Driver for Windows 8.1(32-bit, 64-bit) - IdeaPad Z400, Z400 Touch, Z500, Z500 Touch, P500
Version
: 9.17.10.3223/10.18.10.3277
Intel Video Driver for 32-bit Windows
Intel Video Driver for 64-bit Windows
Windows 8.1 32bit
Windows 8.1 64bit
16 Oct 2013
Ref:-
http://support.lenovo.com/en_IN/downloads/detail.page?DocID=DS032589
S.Sengupta, Windows Entertainment and Connected Home MVP

Contrast/brightness calibration issue

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