Crt displays???

how do these new intel mac minis handle crt displays???
i have heard about some potential incompatability.
i need to use crt in my graphics work.
any clues???
thanx in advance.
j

I don't believe you should have any problems. As long as you can confirm that the mini can drive a display at a resolution and refresh rate that matches your CRT. Remember that the mini comes with a DVI connector so you will more than likely have to use the DVI to VGA adapter.
If you're not confident as to it working you can always try to find someone with one onf the new minis and physically try it with your CRT display.
PS from what I understand the majority of problems come from issues with DVI LCD displays.

Similar Messages

Help with CRT display...

Hi all...
I'm facing a nasty problem connecting an external crt display to my MacBook Pro.
First here's the setup:
-Two MacBook Pro 2.4 GHz
-G4 Cube 450MHz
-iBook G3 800MHz
-CRT DPRO750SB 17" (Nec-Mitsubishi)
-CRT AT897D-1 17" (Formac)
-Problem:
I used to connect the DPRO750SB to one MBP with the Apple's DVI/VGA adapter and everything was fine but now the display doesn't light up anymore.
Furthermore, trying to boot with the display hooked up make the computer crash during startup.
-Clues:
The display and its VGA cable seems OK since there is no problem with the G4 Cube (VGA to VGA) nor the iBook (mini-DVI/VGA).
I have no problem using the Formac Display with both MBP (DVI/VGA).
The DPRO750SB icc profile don't show up anymore in the "Displays" Preference Pane.
I'm able to get the DPRO working sometimes by plug the Formac in, unplug it, then plug the DPRO in.
(in this case, the "Displays" Pref Pane says it's the Formac).
I'm really lost now...
Any help would be greatly appreciated...
Thanks
Fabrice

Well BF1942 and 3D mark both run fine, stable, no glitches and run at the size they are supposed to. Does anyone have any suggestions? PLEASE HELP!
twanto

IMac 400 VGA Out to LCD Monitor works but CRT Display is Black

Hello.
Our church has an iMac 400 with the VGA out port in the back. We connect the iMac an LCD projector to display PowerPoint presentations.
Intermittently, the iMac's CRT display works, then the next time it may not work. Some Sunday mornings it won't work at all, though the desktop can be seen on the screen overhead because the Mac is sending the signals to the LCD projector, which worksf ine. If I disconnect the VGA cable and boot the iMac, then the display works perfectly. Everytime.
I've changed the VGA cable twice, thinking it was bad, but there is no consistent rhyme or reason why this occurs. Some Sundays, both the CRT and the LCD projector work as they should. Other times, only the projector works.
The VGA port always works because the LCD projector always displays the desktop. But the screen on the iMac itself is used as a viewing monitor of sorts for the speaker, and we need it to work properly (the speaker faces the iMac, while the screen for the LCD projector is over his head and behind him).
Any input would be appreciated.
Thanks,
RW Harris, Pastor
Crossview Community Church
CrossviewChurch.com
iMac DV 400 Mac OS X (10.4) 1 gig RAM

It sounds like you may already have the answer in your post... Dual Link versus "not compatible"
The only other thing I can suggest is to connect them up, then go to System Prefs --> Displays --> Detect Displays
That works for me when it doesn't connect immediately - but then again most of the time my display notices the input immediately

Can a wire disconnected from the CRT display cause the computer to crash?

Hello all,
My computer keeps on freezing up and also having kernal panics when I am using it. I have tried everything to fix the problem but nothing worked. Today, I shined a flashlight through the cover of the computer and found a wire that is disconnected from the CRT display. While I am using my computer, the display is working fine. No discoloration or anything. Can someone please let me know (if you know) that a wire disconnected from the CRT display is causing my problem?
Thanks in advance for your help in this matter.
iMac 500 MHz PowerPC G3 256 MB SDRAM 30 GB HD Mac OS X (10.3.9)

Hello,
It's really hard saying what you are looking at. Here's my thoughts:
Has the computer ever been serviced / dismantled?
If not, the wire may have always been like that from the factory.
Without seeing it, it's hard saying for sure.
It could be a "Tie" or something similar that just there to hold things in-place (like a zip-tie). It's not unusual to find actual wire used as a tie.
It could be a wire that was only used in specific configurations. Perhaps your system doesn't have the option that needed that connection. They may have used a standard wire-loom, and only used wires they needed.
It could be your AirPort antenna (used or not). I can't say since I cannot see it myself.
There's just any number of things it could be.
But, if the machine has been working, and not been opened, then that wire has probably been like that for a long time.
The only reason I could see for a wire to be loose now if it wasn't previously, would be if it had stress on it, and the solder connection just let go / broke.
Can you describe what it looks like in more detail? That might help someone identify it.
How does it run through the system? Can you tell what color it is? Is is coated or bare wire? Does it run along with the other wires? Does it look like it was attached previously? Is there a bare end on the wire? Does if have a connector? Etc.
Perhaps with some additional detail, we might be able to better advise you.
I hope this helps.

EMac CRT "display sleep" doesn't really power down

Greetings:
I understand that the eMac's CRT "display sleep" mode doesn't really power down but just darkens the display, as shown by the instant start up when you break sleep -- which truly powered down CRTs can't do (need several seconds to).
Is there a third party program which can truly power-down the CRT for "display sleep" while other processes are at work? I'm watching my 'lectric bills and this would really help.
JimWG

eMacs and old CRT iMacs are completely different beasts when it comes to the CRT connector inside.
The old iMac, at least this is true with my old Grape 333MHz model, used a standard 15-pin D-Sub type monitor cable inside so the "modification" would have been nothing more than unplugging the internal monitor and then plugging in the cable from the LCD monitor.
With the eMac, it isn't a standard monitor cable so you would have to figure out which wires are which and then make an adpater hardness to give you a standard output connector.
Patrick

CRT Display stopped working with Mac Mini

After over a year, my 7-year old ViewSonic CRT display went dark while working on my 1-year old Mac Mini (PowerPC). I replaced the DVI-VGA adapter and it worked perfectly---for a week---and then did the same thing: the screen went dark and the power light went red on the monitor. Both times this happened I hooked up an older generic monitor to see if my ViewSonic had died, and it put up a message stating that "both signals" were missing.
Why was the adapter only a temporary fix? Do older CRTs have the habit of frying these adapters or is it something else?
Mini Mac Mac OS X (10.4.5)

The older monitors that did not come with vga plugs were sometimes computer specific Example. a compac monitor would not work with an ibm. You should get at least a monitor that has vga plug. I had a gateway plugged into my mac mini. Some one will most likey say I'm wrong , but I did try the compac with an ibm. no screen. Older pc monitors with vga plug are pretty cheap right now,. Got mine from goodwill for $6.00

I am using an old CRT display, can I NARROW the aspect so I don't have to scroll rightwards?

Almost every website flows over the edge of the available visual field on this old monitor, so I must scroll to the right simply to see the whole field. I realize that this is for the newer, wide-aspect ratio displays, but isn't there a way to automatically narrow the field to fit my screen? I will try to change my display settings, but that will make the type much smaller, I think.... Take care, and thanks, DAVID

What is the resolution (width and height) of this screen?
Some websites still display fine with 1024x768, but a lot require a wider monitor to avoid scrolling horizontally.<br />
If you have less than 1024x768 then you should consider buying a LCD monitor.<br />
An LCD screen is probably much cheaper then what you have payed for the CRT screen and is also much easier for the eyes (pixels are one to one and no flicker).

Jagged wavy lines edge of CRT display with Dual Core Mac mini

My friend recently bought a Dual Core Intel Mac mini and when hooking it up to a 19 inch MAG monitor there are often wavy lines on the edges of the screen. They go up and down both sides, are jagged, and also are not static but moving quickly. Sometimes it seems to behave normally while other times if it doesn't show up on the boot screen it will show up after a little bit of use.
At first it seems that the more stuff I opened the worse it got, so I thought it could be the shared video RAM as he did not upgrade from the original 512 , but that should only slow the computer down anyway. Now I think rather than the RAM I think it could be related to the Apple DVI to VGA adapter, resloution/refresh rate, or just bad video hardware. I can't rule out that it just won't play nice with the majority of CRT monitors out there either. Sometimes changing the resolution/refresh rate helps and other time it doesn't. From what I heard my friend experienced wavy lines somewhat on his own monitor but I don't think it did it when using a DVI to HDMI cable to his Sony 50 LCD (and I didn't see it when hooking it up to mine either).
If anyone has any idea what could be going on I would greatly appreciate it. The reason it is so important is that my friend decided that the Mac mini was kind of an impulse buy and didn't need his iBook and another computer for his TV so he is going to sell it to my brother who is in need of a computer. So I don't want him to get into something that will give him problems right away.
Thanks in advance,
Robert

So is the MAG monitor your brother's monitor? That wasn't clear.
What you are seeing will most likely be limited to the MAG monitor. The MAG is experiencing some kind of noise coupling in to horizontal sync, likely from it's own power supply. You are correct that this will be related to the sync rate. Changing the vertical refresh to something higher, like 85 Hz or higher if available, might help to mask the noise. Also, power supply loading will affect how the noise manifests, so you weren't imagining when you thought that opening more applications made it worse. It didn't have anything to do with the mini but rather the different average picture level on the screen was changing the monitor's power supply loading and hence changing the beat frequency between hsync and the power supply's switching frequency.
I think it is safe to say most of what you see is bound to the monitor and not the mini. Furthermore, if you are stuck with this monitor, you can probably lessen the appearance of the noise by mucking with the refresh rate out of the mini.

Fuzzy CRT display

Hi
I'm a switcher from Windows and this is my first MAC - why is the screen display so fuzzy?
Also where's the end key - and why the @ iin such a funny place?
Thanks
PS - looked at some posts and seems it may be to do with anti-aliasing - is it worth switching this off? how? it really is very fuzzy

Then I've got a feeling that a little fuzziness is
the least of your problems with that mini. The G4's
are infamous for having bad video output that doesn't
meet VESA specs. This article should bring you up to
speed. If you need more information just let us
know.
http://www.modmini.com/mod/howto/dimvideo.php
Its so bad now I'm going to have to get rid of it (the MAC) - I've worked with computers for over 20 years and never seen such a phenomenon - even on really dirt cheap PCs. Its like looking through a layer of grease or dust on the screen. I might just try and take it to my brothers house and see it on his TFT.
I do like the design of the MAC mini (quiet, small etc) - you can't get a lifstyle windows PC like that for the same money - and OSX obviously has its UNIX pedigree.
The other thing I'd say is that maybe because the MAC community is smaller - the level of expertise available is less - I'm trying to share my MAC connnection and I don't seem to be able to do it - if I had a similar problem on Windows, after posting a question I'd be inundated with fixes.
Looks like MAC 0 - Windows 1

Mac Mini and 17" Studio Display CRT (ADC)

Is there someone who can tell me if there is a DVI to ADC Adapter to get a Mac Mini to work with the beautiful 17" Studio Display CRT (ADC). Which is an anolog monitor, the adapters i can find work only on LCD (digital) screens.
Please let me know...
Ger

Do NOT buy the Apple DVI to ADC adapter, it does not work with CRT displays.
The 'geniuses' at the Apple store recommended that I buy this adapter. It didn't work. I have since found out (after extensively surfing the web) that I am not the only one who has been recommended to buy this adapter by an Apple 'genius'. However, It is simply not designed to work with the CRT's, it is LCD only.
There is no way to make the ADC 17" CRT studio display work with new non ADC Apple hardware. Apple have simply dismissed it, much to the annoyance of all the customers who had purchased this perfectly respectable display.
If you want to use your Mac Mini you will need to use either a non-Apple display or one of their new displays. Your perfectly functioning CRT is now a doorstop.

17" LCD Cinema Display does not work on G4 Tower with ATI 9000

Hi,
I have a G4 Tower with the original AGP ATI Radeon 9000B video card. My friend gave me this unit just recently but not the original monitor. Well after he got his new 30" Cinema Display he gave me the original 17"LCD Cinema Display. I was so happy, plugged it into the card and fired up the CPU but nothing! just blank! It is not getting any power for the USB ports or anything. My buddy says the monitor was checked before I picked it up. I yanked the Video card out and put it back in, inside the CPU was clean as was the card, put it back together and still nothing. The VGA monitor I have is connected via adapter to the other input and works fine. I tried doing display settings and the Cinema is not even detected. Is the Video card fried on the digital side?
Do I need a new one?
Here is the info on the CPU:
Machine Model: Power Mac G4 (AGP graphics)
CPU Type: PowerPC G4 (2.9)
Number Of CPUs: 1
CPU Speed: 400 MHz
L2 Cache (per CPU): 1 MB
Memory: 1.5 GB
Bus Speed: 100 MHz
Boot ROM Version: 4.2.8f1
Serial Number: XB0120xxxxx
Any help wold be appreciated.

Hi MFG,
Welcome to the discussions.
The G4 AGP Graphics model originally shipped with an ATY Rage 128 graphics card. The ATI Radeon 9000 graphics card that is installed in your G4 is not the original card.
The ATI Radeon 9000 comes with a native ADC port (which you are trying to use). This port is only fully functional if the computer is ADC enabled. Your model of G4 is, unfortunately, not ADC enabled.
You can confirm this by opening the computer and having a look at the AGP slot (where the graphics card is installed). In ADC enabled Macs, there is an extra slot at one end of the AGP slot to accomodate an "extra leg" that the ADC graphics cards (such as the ATI 9000) have. This extra leg supplies the power and USB feed. You'll probably find this extra leg with no slot for it to go into.
What this means is that you are not getting power and USB feed through the ADC port to your display.
If you want to get the 17" ADC Apple LCD display working off this card (it's definitely the LCD display and not the CRT display, please confirm), you will need to use a DVI to ADC adaptor such as this one:
http://www.drbott.com/prod/db.lasso?code=0111-DVAD
and run it off the DVI output.
You can run your VGA screen at the same time (if you want to) off the ADC output by using this adaptor:
http://www.drbott.com/prod/db.lasso?code=0117-ADCV
This will work off the ADC port because, although the ADC port is not getting USB or power feed, it's still getting the DVI feed (which is what this adaptor needs).
Cheers!
Karl

Slot-loading DV Display/HardDrive seize up

I am posting a conversation I have been having with a discussion board user, as I think it will be useful for others
On Fri, Feb 18, 2011 at 4:46 PM, <**@**.com> wrote:
Hi Richard:
I've just been reading an exchange you had with someone named Graham in the UK about his iMac going black and becoming unresponsive. After a series of exchanges, you finished up (I think) with:
That can be a possibility. If it was the CPU temp that's causing this the entire logic board would have to have come loose or perhaps the conductive paste has dried out/failed, unlikely.
So upshot. In my experience the part that fails in these G3 iMacs is the PAV (The board you see when you look down from the top it's under the CRT and drives the monitor section. The logic board derives power from the PAV via down converter).
The shutting down is a classic symptom and the most irritating.
Others: No start - power light blinks or turns amber, video gets wonky - color shifts or size variations, sparks arcing sound, native screen is dark but external monitor works fine (not on option on your 350, no external spigot). This is why I've got 7 or so iMac G3s in my basement. Mostly 350s since I was given around 20 of them and I repaired and donated most into the inner city. The ones left have PAV problems.
Wacky upgrade options:
I'm especially interested because here you mentioned the other main symptom I've noticed in my own version of the same problem: the "arcing sound" which I've been hearing almost from the start of my issues. Everything else almost mirrors his, except the time for the symptoms to kick in has reduced to less than 10 minutes.
I thought it might be the drive, so I've tried 2 different hd's, and it happens with both, and I tried running the iMac (400jhz slot loading) just off of CD, and it shut down then too!
Obviously, I've been inside the machine to replace the drives, with my teenage daughter's help (my eyes aren't so hot). I'm going to check for this OS X temperature software and see what it tells me. I did run a RAM checker, and it said it was all fine, so at least I know it's not that. I tried to get a version of Apple Hardware Checker for it (or whatever it's called) but it said the iMac DV would not run the software.
Do you still have those . . . PVA's? This machine is a perfect print server and backup hd and work stereo, and we have enjoyed tinkering with her in the past. If it wasn't TOO complex, I'd like to give it a try. I showed my daughter how to solder a battery cable onto a tester circuit board, so if that's the kind of thing we'd need to do, I'm game.
Let me know, and I'm looking for a temperature checker right now. Oh yea, and Tricia Helfer DOES look pretty hot.
Carey
On 18-Feb-11, at 8:37 PM, spudnuty wrote:
Hi Cary,
the other main symptom I've noticed in my own version of the same problem: the "arcing sound" which I've been hearing almost from the start of my issues.
That arcing sound is almost always the flyback transformer. That is on the PAV board which is basically the entire upper half of the computer. Here's a site in England where you can download the Service Manual for your machine.
http://www.macmanuals.co.uk/
So since you have a 400 MHz machine it's one of the more desirable machines since it has firewire. 400 to 700 had them. As I mentioned in my post I would pull the logic board and transfer it to a working 350. If you look in the manual swapping the board is simple. Then again around Chicago these G3 iMacs are sold for $25 or less. Don't know the situation where you are.
I used to repair these but they've become so cheap that the board swap is now my chosen path.
Richard
On Sat, Feb 19, 2011 at 12:22 PM, <**@**.com> wrote:
Richard:
I guess this shhould've been on the discussion board so others could see it, but I'll just ask one more thing before looking into the manual:
Remember, I've swapped a harddrive and memory, but board changing is something I've never tried before:
So, are you saying that the PAv that might be creating these issues, being such a large part of the computer, should just be abandoned, and the logic board swapped into a 350 because of it's simplicity? Does the logic board contain the 400 mhz processor and firewire hookup, or would those be left behind on the 400 iMac's PAV board?
I'm looking at the manual, and you're right, pulling the logic board does look pretty simple, but I haven't found the answer to the above question yet, so I'll send it to you.
I emailed this to you because the original post a over a year old, and I wasn't sure you'd still be watching the discussion boards. Next time, I'll just 'trust to the boards', though I've only received 2/5 answers through it over the years.
Thanks again.
Carey
On 19-Feb-11, at 6:17 PM, spudnuty wrote:
Carey,
So look at the pic I enclose. It's from the service manual.
So you've had the machine apart to this point, from here it's just the removal of the 10 screws to remove the logic board and down converter. They plug into the upper part via a couple of connectors. There could be a few plastic rivets that tie the board to the divider panel.
Does the logic board contain the 400 mhz processor and firewire hookup, or would those be left behind on the 400 iMac's PAV board?
That's all on the logic board.
Basically the iMac is a CRT display and speakers with a logic board underneath with the optical drive and the hard drive.
The board on top is called the PAV board ( power analog video) i. e. video power supply for a computer monitor. Power comes from that board and comes down to the "down converter" which changes it to logic board power, basically 12V and 5.5V DC. (These boards have been run "headless" but now not worth the trouble)
So your path from here will be determined by what kind of donor iMac you find. It must be a slot loader and the chances are it will be as fast or faster as your current machine.
Richard
On Mon, Feb 21, 2011 at 11:17 PM, <**@**.com> wrote:
Hi Richard:
Well, despite your own circumstances with blueberries and strawberries falling from the computer sky, I've gone on 4 different user forums and several different 'used things for sale' websites, and so far the closest I can come to getting a used imac is having one shipped from the next province (about 500 miles) for about 50-60 bucks, or possibly one in the city which the poster said they wanted 200 bucks for. I've had no reply to my email to them, yet.
Would you be willing to sell me one of those PAV boards, if they're still kicking around? I would think the shipping would be much less than the whole darned computer.
If you don't still have them in piles around you, I may just have to turf the iMac entirely for budgetary reasons.
I guess with the much smaller population, the proliferation of iMacs is similarly reduced. There's only about 3 million people in Alberta, which is where I am.
Let me know.
Greatly appreciate the information connections you've made for me.
Cheers
Carey
On 22-Feb-11, at 1:17 AM, spudnuty wrote:
Hey Carey,
Well I was forced to leave all of my iMac G3 parts with a recycler in Chicago when I moved.
I actually found one here in Pocatello (town of 60K) for $25 so maybe you can find the same thing. I don't have a PAV board and they are very hard to swap out, don't think I ever did it.
So, thinking a bit more about your situation, since you're using it as a server, when it fails does it absolutely freeze up? On the 400 you can attach a VGA monitor to the spigot under the perferated oval grill under the bottom rear. The monitors can fail in these and still produce power to run the logic board. Around here you can get a cheap LCD 15" monitor for around $25. A CRT type you can probably get for free. So if you're lucky it can still work that way.
There were people who ran a logic board headless, but most of these are out of date:
Here's a few:
http://www.applefritter.com/node/2241
http://www.cryogenius.com/hardware/imac/
a translation of the classic French mod:
http://www.hardmac.com/articles/39/page1
Soo hopefully yours will fail and just the CRT will be involved.
Here's hoping...
Richard
<Edited by Host>

Perhaps one of your RAM modules has gone belly up. To test this, remove both RAM modules and start up. If the RAM is the cause of the problem, the computer will respond with a complaining chime, and of course go no further. But that will indicate the RAM is cause, and you can go to the next step; try to start up with just one of the RAM modules installed - either one. If that gets you nowhere, try the other one.
If the problem is not bad RAM, it is beyond my expertise to help. Sorry.

DVI to ADC adapter STudio display will not power on when used with Mac mini

I have a Mac mini and I just purchased a used apple 17" CRT studio display. I bought the DVI to ADC Adapter as recommended by my Apple store. When I hook everything up (I have checked and redone this two times) The power light will come on for about a second when presses. When the mini powers up there is a blank dark screen. I would appreciate any ideas on this. thanks!
Mac mini Mac OS X (10.4.1)

Hi
unfortunately I think the Apple store have sold you the wrong item.
I'm almost certain the DVI to ADC adapter only works with ADC based flat panel displays. DVI ports can output digital or analogue signals (or a combination of the two). The adapter seems to provide digital, which is why it works with the LCD displays, but not analogue, which is why it doesn't work with the CRT displays.
Confusingly Apple did a 17" Studio display both as a CRT and LCD.
Dr. Bott do a similar adapter but they explicitly state it's not compatible with the 17" CRT.
Unfortunately I'm not sure there's a solution, as the display has an ADC connector yet I'm not aware of any adapters available that will work.

DVI to ADC Adapter a 12" Powerbook and an Apple Studio Display 15"

hello,
i am trying to hook up a 12" powerbook with a DVI to ADC adapter to an Apple Studio Display 15".
i´m just about to buy a used 15" display on ebay.
i was wondering if this is working out together. in the apple store there are two DVI to ADC adapters at different prices and displays supported?
so if anybody could help me out please let me know!!!!
thank you very much
regards, g.

Hi
unfortunately I think the Apple store have sold you the wrong item.
I'm almost certain the DVI to ADC adapter only works with ADC based flat panel displays. DVI ports can output digital or analogue signals (or a combination of the two). The adapter seems to provide digital, which is why it works with the LCD displays, but not analogue, which is why it doesn't work with the CRT displays.
Confusingly Apple did a 17" Studio display both as a CRT and LCD.
Dr. Bott do a similar adapter but they explicitly state it's not compatible with the 17" CRT.
Unfortunately I'm not sure there's a solution, as the display has an ADC connector yet I'm not aware of any adapters available that will work.

Mini displayport to VGA + Samsung CRT

I have a brand new 15'' MacBook Pro and an old Samsung 19'' CRT Display. I tried connecting them using the Apple Mini Displayport to VGA adapter but it looks like the monitor is not receiving any signal. I tried "Detect displays" in System preferences > displays but still nothing happens.
I read in these forums that there's an update for the adapter firmware but I downloaded it and it said there was no adapter to upadte. I also found that there are problems with some Samsung displays.
So, is there any way to fix this? I could buy a Mini Displayport to DVI + DVI to VGA adatper but I would like to avoid that.
Thanks!

It's not being detected: there's no Arrangement tab in Displays and clicking Gather Windows doesn't show other window.
I've never used this display with a different Mac.
Thanks!

Crt displays???

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