D-110 Slide Scanning

I have a D-110. Can I scan and digitize 35mm slides ? If so, do I need any other accessories ?

Hi cgn200,
RE: Slide scanning, take a look at this article:
http://www.hp.com/canada/portal/hho/digital_photography/organize_archive_photos/tips/scanning_slides...
Note: you need a photo scanner with built-in negative and slide scanning ability
You would need a product specifically designed for this purpose, as a standard scanner won't be able to produce satisfactory resutls. The products recommended by the article are the
HP Scanjet G3110
HP Scanjet G4010
HP Scanjet G4050
Hope this helps!
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Similar Messages

Slide scan attachment for 5200 C

I have an old back-up computer running Widows XP in conjunction with an HP 5200C scanner. I have the slide scan attachment for the scanner but can't get it to work. I no longer have any of the operating instructions.
What do I need to do?
This question was solved.
View Solution.

Oh ok got ya.
You must be using one of these shown in this review.
http://www.andromeda.com/people/ddyer/photo/slide-transfer.html
Those are a rare piece of equipment. No, there are no instructions on the net for the prism attachment. Very frustrating HP. I heard they were ok but not that great actually.
So you are asking how to place the slide in the prism and use it, correct?
The only instructions I can find are for a homemade version that works under the same principle.
The key is to place the slide in the center of the scanner but position the slide to one end of the prism so I can get as much light as it can to reflect back into the film.
Look at the example on this web page for the homemade version. The principle should be the same.
http://www.abstractconcreteworks.com/essays/scanning/Backlighter2.html
If this is what you are asking, then this should work.

Convert slide scan files to .dng?

We are scanning masses of old slide scans and bringing them into Lightroom as .tiffs. Recently I was told that if I convert those .tiff files to .dng that would enhance developing operations in the Develop module and almost simulate working with a RAW file.
Does anyone have any experience with this process? And any opinion about it?

The only advantage of DNG over a TIFF is its ability to retain the full RAW capture of a photographic sensor. A scanner works differently, some have a pseudo RAW format...Nikon scanners can do this scanning to the NEF format. But if you have scanned as a TIFF keep the original as a TIFF LR's functionality will be the same with a DNG made from a TIFF and the original TIFF. Whoever is telling you taht you can magically gain information by converting file types is misleading you and DNG compression (whilst the best for RAW formats, isn't any better than TIFF's so the file size remains the same as does the ability to write xmp metadata to the file (rather than as a sidecar file. In brief converting anything other than an original RAW file to the DNG format is just a waste of time.

Looking for Pixma plus 35mm slide scanning!

Hello.
I used to have a Canon Pixma printer with a 35mm scanning facility built in to the lid. Broke down some time ago, unfortunately.
And now Canon don't do Pixma printers with 35mm scanning.
Been scouring the internet for an MG8250 or equivalent, with no luck. I don't WANT to change from Pixma. I think it's possibly the best colour print system you can buy, but I do need that 35mm slide scanning facility, so any suggestions as to an alternative product, i.e. a good quality colour printer (plus copier plus flatbed scanner plus 35mm slide scanner), offering similar print quality as the Pixma?
I suppose one alternative is to buy a stand-alone 35mm neg scanner, but I also have a number of ancient (1890s) large b&w negatives so a 35mm-only carrier wouldn't do - I need something where I can use bits of tape etc. to hold odd-sized films.
Thanks for reading, and I hope someone has a suggestion or two.
Allen.

Aside from looking at the pretty transitions, did you read
the rest of the
page? See the part where it says "Step 1 - copy and
paste....."
Then do Step 2. It just can't get any easier than that.
Read the bit underneath step 2 and it tells you how the
script can be used
multiple times on a page - Again - step 1: you give it a new
name in the
javascript file, and add the names and paths of the images
for the
consecutive slides you wish to display. Then, again, Step 2 -
you call the
slideshow somewhere on your page.
Without sounding condescending, sit back, read the
instructions again, and
have a go at implementing them into your page.
Upload your efforts, post a link to the page, and we'll be
able to help you
further if you need it.
You can describe what you have, how you want it to work, but
until we see a
page live, its a bit hard to help further.
Last resort, spring for a paid solution to do it all for you
(which I highly
recommend) -
http://www.projectseven.com/products/galleries/ssm/index.htm
Brendon
"Fugasi" <[email protected]> wrote in
message
news:gju0dl$olu$[email protected]..
> Brendon-
>
> >I've used this one many times before with good
success:
>
> I don't know how to use this, its a bunch of code.
>
> 1. Do I C&P this and paste it into my page? Where on
the page?
> 2. I actually want to have four separate slide shows
happening at once on
> the
> same page. Will this code allow me to do that?
> 3. Right now I have four photos in-line horizontally in
non-css table. I
> want
> those four to interchange as a slow dissolve slide show.
How do I specify
> that
> I want the slide show to appear in the table cells?
>
> Thanks
>

Slide scanning with Scanner G3110

My HP scanner g3110 works very well for usual task (scanning any size documentation black and white or color or color photos) but I can't scan a color slide. The resulting image is small even if I make a selection to scan just the slide and it is also very dark.
I went on HP Internet site and I followed the procedure to put everything up to date on the scanner but sorry, the problem is still there.
My operating system is WINDOW 7 (64bits)

Hi @joseph9
I would like to help you with your G3110 scanner. I understand it is working well with the exception of scanning slides.
Please take a looks at the following document; The scanned images are dark
Also, here is the how to section of the G3110 support site; Tips for scanning transparent items, this might be the most helpful
If the issue persists, though, I suggest calling HP. If you are in Canada or US call 800 474 6836, or you can Contact HP Worldwide.
I hope this helps.
Please click the Thumbs up icon below to thank me for responding.
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HP photosmart 7180 slide scan problem

After updating to Snow Leopard, the Photosmart c7180 printer works fine and the scanner works fine on documents and photos. When I try to scan a slide or negative, the scanner zips VERY FAST to about 1/3 of the scanner area and stops. An error message appears on the printer screen "unable to scan, copy or fax". When I cancel on the printer panel, a new message appears saying "analyzing film". The computer screen continuously shows the message "preparing to scan". I have let it sit this way up to 5 minutes and nothing happens. Everything locks up and the only way I can get out is to turn the printer off.
I have uninstalled the HP printer software a couple of times and downloaded and reinstalled software from both HP and the Apple site, including doing a software update on each one. None of that has cured the problem.
Anything else I can try to eliminate this problem?

http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/siteHome?cc=us&lc=en

How is Aperture or iPhoto suitable for my slide scanning project?

Hi!
I am confused as to what program to use for my project; I have many hundreds of slides/films/photos I will be scanning but I will make this as simple as possible. Let's say this is what I have done so far:
1) Scan slides from 10 Kodak carousels and save as 18MB TIFFs ~2400dpi or greater. These are numbered Tray 1 001, Tray 2 001, Tray 3 001 etc. and each tray has 140 slides. However, please note that these slides are mixed up within and sometimes between individual trays, i.e. some are from 1960 birthday parties, 1977 hiking trip, 1968 Christmas, etc. (There is no way I will arrange them before scanning!)
2) Bring them into PSE 8 and do editing. Post editing, save as a separate JPG which is now 6 MB in size, and with the same name except of course the .jpg extension. Store the TIFFs on external HD.
3) This is where I am stuck! I need to completely rearrange these JPG-images and give them more descriptive names. If I do not use Aperture or iPhoto, I would probably make 10 separate folders, drag JPGs into these folders and their subfolders, relabel the JPGs, do more shuffling, and be done....but my arm would fall off by then.
Can you give me an idea of how my workflow would go if instead of step 3, I brought these mixed-up JPGs into Aperture for my rearranging (and probably more editing) using keywords/projects/folders etc?
I do have one more pressing question. If I go the Aperture route and I have finished my project and I want to take my Aperture library to a computer that does not have Aperture or iPhoto (say a PC) or bring them into Lightroom or some other program, what will happen to my file structure? Will a JPG I have labeled '1968 Christmas 001' still be in its folder I have labeled 'Christmas'? Will my Masters remain labeled 'Tray 1 001 as they were when I first imported?
I use iPhoto but have not imported any of these scanned slides because I just don't think iPhoto is suitable for my project. I am also curious if Lightroom might be a viable alternative and once I have everything ordered and labeled to my satisfaction, I could then bring them into an 'iProgram' for the fun stuff.
Thanks and if anybody has any suggestions to better my workflow, feel free to comment!

If at a later time I choose to leave Aperture, can I get my files out in some semblance of the structure I have established?
Yes, Depending on the setting you give to Aperture it might not even be necessary to get them 'out', because they are not even 'in'. This is the widely discussed 'referenced' vs 'managed' topic. BTW, this only holds for the original files. Edited version always need to be 'taken out'.
If I go through the trouble of sorting all my photos and creating projects, albums, etc, when I export will it create a file structure similar to it?
Yes, you could tell Aperture to create a file structure similar to your internal structure.
And will it export the various versions, in addition to the original files when i export it?
Yes, but not simultaneously, by hitting one button. Exporting originals (called masters in Aperture terminology) and versions are two different buttons to push.
I understand from reading other forums that with iPhoto the library structure will be lost because it is an SQL database but I'm trying to figure that out with Aperture.
This is not entirely true. Both programs will export keywords, GPS data etc. etc. iPhoto will not create a specific file structure on export, but Aperture can do that. Some people are frightened that the files are stored inside a library, where they cannot physically see the files, but both programs have the ability to store outside a library package and in a location where you can physically see your files. Of course when you stop using these programs you will loose the database benefit (i.e. fast searching on various forms of metadata and using those data for sorting), since you'll now be managing your photos again with an ordinary file manager.

Archiving slide scans. Tiff or jpg?

We're scanning a bunch of slides to digitize and archive them and bringing them in as tiffs at the moment.
That takes up a LOT of space. Should I be converting them to jpgs before importing them?
If so, where, CS3? I don't use Bridge at all. What size, etc.?
Joia

This sort of goes along with my other question about the external drive dilemma.
Must think about this a bit more.
Enjoy the championships. Canadian? My husband is a card-carrying Canadian here in the US
and I've learned to love watching - no! not hockey! - that game where they slide a big stone on the
ice - Curling, that's it!
Must go fix dinner.

Slide scanning problem

Hi all.
I have a slide talk which I have given many, many times. I bought iWork so that I could digitize it. I apologize for being off topic here, but some of the slides come out beautifully and some are amazingly washed out. The slides themselves don't look all that bad, in fact some of these look quite nice.
Any ideas on how to correct this washing out of some images?
Underlying this problem is that I will never be able to replace many of these images, so I have to make these slides work.
Again, sorry for being off topic...but it's kind of related, I hope.
I'm using a Cannon 8400f scanner and Photoshop elements.
Thanks!

Are you paying close attention to make sure you're color-correcting all of your images the same way? The first thing I'd do is take two of the images that show the widest range of quality and go through your steps again to make sure that some color setting isn't throwing you off.

I would appreciate it if someone could advise me as to the optimum resolution, dimensions and dpi for actual photographic slides that I am scanning for use in a Keynote Presentation, that will be projected in a large auditorium. I realize that most proje

I would appreciate it if someone could advise me as to the optimum resolution, dimensions and dpi for actual photographic slides that I am scanning for use in a Keynote Presentation, that will be projected in a large auditorium. I realize that most projectors in auditoriums that I will be using have 1024 x 1200 pixels, and possibly 1600 x 1200. There is no reference to this issue in the Keynote Tutorial supplied by Apple, and I have never found a definitive answer to this issue online (although there may be one).
Here’s my question: When scanning my photographic slides, what setting, from 72 dpi to 300 dpi, would result in the best image quality and use up the most efficient amount of space?
Here’s what two different photo slide scanning service suppliers have told me:
Supplier No. 1 tells me that they can scan slides to a size of 1544 x 1024 pixels, at 72 dpi, which will be 763 KB, and they refer to this as low resolution (a JPEG). However, I noticed when I looked at these scanned slides, the size of the slides varied, with a maximum of 1.8 MB. This supplier says that the dpi doesn’t matter when it comes to the quality of the final digital image, that it is the dimensions that matter. They say that if they scanned a slide to a higher resolution (2048 x 3072), they would still scan it at 72 dpi.
Supplier No. 2: They tell me that in order to have a high quality image made from a photographic slide (starting with a 35 mm slide, in all cases), I need to have a “1280 pixel dimension slide, a JPEG, at 300 dpi, that is 8 MB per image.” However, this supplier also offers, on its list of services, a “Standard Resolution JPEG (4MB file/image – 3088 x 2048), as well as a “High Resolution JPEG (8 MB file/image – 3088x2048).
I will be presenting my Keynotes with my MacBook Pro, and will not have a chance to try out the presentations in advance, since the lecture location is far from my home, so that is not an option.
I do not want to use up more memory than necessary on my laptop. I also want to have the best quality image.
One more question: When scanning images myself, on my own scanner, for my Keynote presentations, would I be better off scanning them as JPEGs or TIFFs? I have been told that a TIFF is better because it is less compressed.
Any enlightenment on this subject would be appreciated.
Thank you.

When it comes to Keynote, I try and start with a presentation that's 1680 x 1050 preset or something in that range. Most projectors that you'll get at a conference won't project much higher than that and if they run at a lower resolution, it's better to have the device downsize your Keynote. Anything is better than having the projector try and upsize your presentation... you work hard to make it look good, and it's mangled by some tired Epson projector.
As far as slides go, scan them in at 150 dpi or better, and make them at least the dimensions of your presentation. Keynote is really only wanting 72dpi, but I do them at 150, just in case I need to print out the presentation as a handout later, and having the pix at 150 dpi gives me a little help with their quality on a printer.
You'd probably have to drop in the 150 versions again if you output the Keynote to .pdf or Word or something, but at least you have the option.
And Gary's right (above) go ahead and scan them as TIFFs. Sooner or later you'll want to do something else with these slides (like make something for an iPad or the like) and having them as TIFFs keeps your presentation looking good.
Finally, and this is a big one, get to the location for your presentation ahead of time if you can, and plug the laptop in and see what you get. There's always connection problems. Don't let the AV bonehead tell you everything will work just fine ('... I don't have any adapters for a Mac...') . See it for yourself... you're the one that's standing up there. Unless it's your boss, then you better be really sure it works.

Cannot scan multiple slides from Canoscan 8600F

In the past when I had a PC I was able to scan multiple color slides (using the multiple slide adapter), but on my Mac when I installed the Canoscan driver and software, I used Image Capture to scan. Here's what the right side of Image Capture shows:
Kind: Color
Resolution: 75 dpi (I set this low because it is just for web and computer viewing)
Use Custom Size: Letter size
Scan to: Desktop (I have hundreds of slides so is it better to scan to a specific folder? I do not want to mix these scanned photos with my Pictures)
Name: Scan 1,2 etc.
Format: JPEG
Detect Separate Images selected.
The result of the scan shows one image of the film holder and four blackened slides, with no details. No individual slides shown.
What happened?

It's best to scan to a folder on the Desktop so you can keep them together and organized.
You must set the source as "Color Positive Film".
Image Capture with Mt. Lion (and maybe Lion) does not have that slide or transparency setting option.
Use the CanoScan application for slide scanning because it will automatically select each of the 4 slides on the platten and save them as individual images. The CanoSdan Toolbox will do the same.
You can get the latest scanner drivers and CanoScan software here: Canon U.S.A. : Support & Drivers : CanoScan 8600F for OS systems up to Mt. Lion.
I'd reinstall the drivers and the software and give it a try again both with Image Capture and with CanoScan.
NOTE: I've gotten what looks like some roller smudges on the underside of the glass platten. Looks like some of the smudges that I can wipe off the top side when I get them but they are underneath. I haven't noticed any problem with the scans due to them, however. Have you gotten anything similar?
OT

Lightroom 2 sharpen settings for scanned slides

Hi,
I'm catching up on scanning a large number of 35mm slides (shot mainly on Fuji Velvia 50, and scanned on a Nikon Coolscan 8000ED) and importing them into Lightroom so I can manage them from there. Can anyone provide advice on suitable sharpening settings to use under Detail in the Develop module?
Obviously different films and images will require different treatment to get the best results for image detail and grain, but it would be really helpful to hear of others' experience to get an idea where to start. Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

I don't know whether there is or there is no any particular settings recommended just for a particular type of slide scanned on a particular scanner with particular scanning parameters, but the general rule for capture sharpening in Develop module is: "If it looks good on screen at 100%, it's good".
Just zoom in to 1:1 and use your eyes to judge when there's enough sharpening without making halos or revealing to much film grain.

Correcting colour and contrast in scanned slides

I am investigating how to scan slides as accurately as possible, with the qualification that sometimes I may accept less than 100% accuracy for a better-looking image. I am in the midst of comparing several scanning methods, and at this stage one particular method stands above all the rest.
My original idea (before I started testing) was that I would not ask the scanner to do much processing of the raw image, that I would edit in Photoshop. The reasoning was: there's no better image-editing program than PS, and if PS (or its plugins) can't improve the image no other software could.
Well, it looks like I was wrong. I have tried to edit several raw scans, and using PS I can't get results that are as good as asking the scanner to edit the slides.
I have uploaded two sample scans to: http://www.mediafire.com/?z1w4ekew39dwa
Each scan has two versions: a "natural" scan out of the scanner (no corrections), and a corrected scan (suffix GB) using various scanner settings.
What intrigues me is that the scanner is able to automatically correct colour casts and improve contrast across a wide variety of slides. i.e. I have tested slides from the 1960s through to 2007 on various stock (Fuji, Anscochrome, Kodachrome, Ilfochrome). In almost all cases, and without changing the scan settings, images come up as good as the two uploaded images. The only setting I sometimes need to alter is what I call the "gamma", for slides that are underexposed or have a lot of dark regions where detail should be visible (and the reverse for overexposed slides).
Maybe I am not using PS to its full potential, so I am hoping that someone can have a go at editing the "natural" scans to see how close they can get to the corrected scans from the scanner – and then explain how they did it.
I am astounded at what the software inside this scanner can do with images. I thought PS was the be-all and end-all for images, but in my hands, PS comes in second and I'd like to know how to improve its performance.
Thanks in advance for any input.
Notes
1. I purposely choose challenging slides for testing. They either have a large contrast range with visible detail in the highlights and shadows; or colour casts; or bright saturated colours.
2. When testing, I compare all scanned images as seen on my computer screen with the original slide on a hand-held light box viewed through a loupe. For example, all colours in the image called Slide Scan 15 GB, even the metallic-looking sheen of the raincoats, appear as a close match to the original slide. The only significant colour variation is in the foreground rocks (which are a grey-brown colour in the slide), and the sky (which is a slightly darker blue in the slide). This slide is, maybe, 1/2 stop underexposed which explains the saturated colours and the dark "natural" scan.
3. The scanner spends a significant amount of time applying corrections. An 18 MB image (2000 dpi) might take 30 seconds to scan, then another minute for the corrections to be applied.

Welcome to the forums elinhjulstrom,
I saw your post about the scan quality issue you are having with your Deskjet F2180 on Mavericks. I would like to share my ideas with you that might help.
Try:
Mac OS X: How to reset the printing system (This will delete all printers)
Repair disk permissions
Re-add the printer (not the AirPrint driver)
Try the scan again
If there is still an issue, check out this link and use another method to scan:
OS X v10.9 Mavericks: Installing and Using the Printer on a Mac
Enjoy your day
R a i n b o w 7000I work on behalf of HP
Click the “Kudos Thumbs Up" at the bottom of this post to say
“Thanks” for helping!
Click “Accept as Solution” if you feel my post solved your issue, it will help others find the solution!

Canoscan 9000f - Having trouble scanning 1.5" x 1.5" Ektachrome Slides

The bottom slide scans fine with the correct dimensions but the top slide gets cut to roughly the same dimensions as the bottom, chopping off some of the image. Everytime I try to change the input size it tells me it's invalid and to enter a correct value. Does anyone know how to scan the size on top without any of it getting chopped?

Yes I did! And by accident.
Assuming you're using Photostudio 6. Once you Acquire and prescan your slides, click on the icon all the way to the left on the menu bar (under where it says ScanGear). This button "Switches On / Off the thumbnails view mode" After you click that just select your photo and the outline will start "crawling" around the image then drag it to the dimensions you need! Good luck and happy scanning!

How do I associate a scanner's icc profile with the TIFF files from scanning old slides?

I profiled my slide scanner and have an icc profile for that scanner. In Photoshop I can assign that profile to those files obtained by scanning slides in that scanner. Can I do something functionally equivalent inside Lightroom?

This is totally off on a tangent, so feel free to ignore:
After struggling with slide scanning on an Epson V500 for years, and generally getting lousy results (loads of chromatic aberration, poor detail resolution despite plenty of pixels, and bad color) - I decided to try to photograph them. The setup is simple. D800, Micro-Nikkor 105mm with extension tube (but any macro that goes 1:1 should do), small piece of diffusing plastic, flash backlight. And some tape to hold it all together.
Wow.
The result is razor-sharp with all the fine detail I have always missed, totally clean from CA, and with a few quick Lightroom adjustments it's there. Previously I had to bring them into Photoshop and spend hours.
The scanner is outside my window if anyone needs it...

D-110 Slide Scanning

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