Despite problems I'm fairly happy

I've read a lot of complaints, so maybe another perspective
will be help some of you to feel better.
I, too, got an error during the 1.1.1 update and got to learn
about restore. Annoying, but the restore worked.
Despite this error and the occasional other problem with the
phone I am mostly pleased with it. I'm a "light" user and
don't live or die by my connections, so minor and temporary
problems that might
be killers for other people are things I can shrug off.
I got the phone primarily to do light browsing when I'm
out in the world and to always have contact info and my
personal info database with me.
The ancient Palm Pilot died and I've never had an iPod.
The iPod functionality was my justification -- to listen to
educational stuff, but that wasn't the real reason.
I decided to get it the phone the day I wanted to know
how old Jane Austen was when she died.
As it happens I was on my way to an Apple store when the
subject came up and I was able to get an answer on a demo iPhone.
It has been fine for that -- browsing slow with EDGE sometimes
but also pretty peppy sometimes.
The main reason I got this mobile net device is that I despise the interfaces
on the other cell phones I've had. I didn't want special junk and
special browsers -- way too much pain for me. I just never had a
good match to the thinking of the designers -- I would repeatedly
pick the same (wrong) button for some function because that is the
one it should have been! The iPhone screen is very nice and the
responsive managment with pretty good physics (suitable momentum
and instant stop when you put a finger on a moving screen, etc.)
make it nearly effortless for me to use.
My chief complaint about the actual function of the phone
is the apparent variability of AT&T signal reception.
Sitting in a restaurant I can flip from no signal to 5 bars
and back in the course of a couple minutes.
I've seen other problems, including having Safari abruptly
return to the home screen and/or having music quit playing
while surfing. Reboots have seemed to eliminate a problem
state (which says the problem is some bad data or stored program
state somewhere). I now reboot occasionally because it doesn't
take very long and cleans up bad program state.
It seems likely to me that the engineering challenge of
producing so complicated a device that is an appliance
and really does just have to "just work" was just a little bit more
than Apple could manage in the time they had.
I believe (without evidence) that they are working on the
basic system software.
I picture their development guys
working long hours on very-difficult-to-reproduce bugs.
I'm not terribly surprised that they haven't opened up the
device to third-party apps yet since the base software may
not be exactly what you'd think of as rock solid.
The day general 3rd party apps can go on the phone is the
day it becomes even less stable so the core system has to be
very solid.
I hope eventually they will open it up a bunch more.
It is almost a "real" computer and it could certainly be
a much more useful single device to carry around.
Apple will have competition in this arena, eventually,
so I presume they have incentive to improve the software
and to continue to produce new hardware.
Oh, I suppose I should mention one other downside to the iPhone.
I now try to touch the display on my Macs from time to time to
move something. Cover flow in iTunes is particularly tempting to
try to move with a finger! I will be very pleased when my main screen
can have the same capabilities as the iPhone screen.

There is no answer to the meaning of iPhone.

Similar Messages

How to send my ipad for technical assistance? He fell to the floor but still binds despite problems in the system

How to send my ipad for technical assistance? He fell to the floor but still binds despite problems in the system

Here you go: http://support.apple.com/kb/index?page=servicefaq&geo=United_States&product=ipod
Good luck!

Charged despite problem not resolved!

i really dont know where to start....
a few months back, our phone line died...no dial tone..silence. the kids had dropped our phone a few times over the few years we'd had it so we bought a new phone...same problem. broadband connection was still fine though (and still is). so I ran through all the checks...disconnecting everything, unscrewing bottom half of main box to access test socket etc. plugged phone in......nothing. after all this i rang bt via my mobile (at cost!) to be told that they could send an engineer out but that we could potentially incur a callout charge of £130.00 if the fault originates after the main box (ie that we would not incur a charge if the fault occurs with anything upto and including the main box). I'll be honest and say at this time, I could not afford such a potential fee, so decided to make do with mobile use until I could afford the potential fee.
meanwhile, I recieve a letter from sky threatening to charge me more on my subscription with them, as I didnt have them connected to my phoneline.....I did but the boxes were unable to make their test calls due to the line problem.
faced with further cost, i had no chance but to gamble....and arranged an engineer visit.
the engineer called, glanced at the antique wiring coming into the property, took a cursory look at the main box, fiddled with the wiring (between outside and the main box) and changed the face on the main box. then confidently told me I needed a new filter....10mins and he was out the door! he then sat in his vehicle outside the house for 20-30mins.
line was working, hurrah! not...... bought a new filter....called sky out, resolved that issue.....then.....same fault...internet fine, no phone line, no dial tone, nada. whilst calling our number goes straight to 1571 as if line is busy.
I then notice that bt intend taking a £130.00 charge via direct debit....to say my jaw dropped.....
in this past week, i've noticed openreach engineers working in our area... in fact 1 van at either end of our street. I took the opportunity of approaching one of the engineers to ask if it was our problem he was working on. he stated no, it was the local golf club they were working on but had come across a fault that will have been affecting the area potentially for the last few months as a result of their work there. he stated that the fault i was experiencing had been reported to him by about 5 other local people, and whilst I was speaking to him another local resident gave a similar account.
encouraged by this conversation, i risked calling bt using my mobile......lines busy - leave number for callback in 1 hour.......no callback, tried this 2 more times.....same scenario. barring cancelling dd, I had very few options left, so i gave them 1 more try on thursday, got through to india.....they spent 27 minutes telling me that the engineer fixed the fault, before suggesting that they transfer me blind to the faults line, refusing to have to explain myself all over again, i insisted that they explain situation before transferring me through. the guy I was speaking to begrudgingly agreed to this only to come back to me after about 5minutes of hold music and state that the faults department would call me within 10 minutes.....
......they called me an hour and 10mins later, introducing themselves as being from the BROADBAND faults department, that they were very busy right now and would give me a call in 10mins.......suffice to say that is the last i've heard from them....
given the fact that the fault is not beyond the main box, by bt's own statement, I do not owe a callout fee, given that the DD is due to be claimed and the complete lack of customer service I have no choice but to suspend my DD (only allowing what should be claimed) as given the level of competence displayed already, I have no confidence in recovering funds claimed incorrectly if i was to allow bt to claim what they want to.
ultimately
*I want the fault fixed
*I do not want to pay for something that hasnt been done
*I am willing to pay if it can be proved that it is something in my house beyond the main box that is causing the fault
*I do not want to jump through hoops to get the matter resolved
*I am more that willing to play fair on this, but all I seem to be encountering is lies, failed service and stealth charging
please help, someone!

Hi Shalhassan,
Welcome to the forum and thanks for posting. I would like to look into this for you.
Please drop me an email via the 'Contact Us' link in my profile. (click on my name and you will find the link under the "about me" section). Include your BT account details and the link to this thread.
Cheers
Sean
BTCare Community Manager
If we have asked you to email us with your details, please make sure you are logged in to the forum, otherwise you will not be able to see our ‘Contact Us’ link within our profiles.
We are sorry that we are unable to deal with service/account queries via the private message(PM) function so please don't PM your account info, we need to deal with this via our email account :-)

My k8n now has no problems and im v happy how many others?

On board sound crap > bought an auidgy 2
Wrong temps > solved by beta bios 1.43 even right on cold boot now
SATA f*(^ up on OC > moved sata drives to ports 3&4
Power light randomly going of > disabled ATI speedup in extra shift+F2 bios options
Everything perfect now v stable at my oc been runnin it 4 1.5 months now and playin doom3, pi'in and foldin on it. just wish i had better mem so i could run 1:1.
how many other are 100% now?

Ok ive just got all mine sorted and it seems to be working correctly now, i was getting read outs of 80c on load and 60 normal, but ive got it down to 70 normal (going to flash the ram in a moment to see if that helps)
Ive used a combination of things to cool it down, sat down and wrapped all the cables up with spiral wrap.. moved all cables away from the motherboard and fans and placed around the edge of the case... mounted a fan over the PCI slots.. sounds odd but its working a treat and not much difference in noise.
But my Zalman CNPS7000B-Cu was not tight to the CPU which i didnt notice until i was mounting it back on with the supplied black bracket and back place.. I realised the bracket was to high and i couldnt screw it down enough without the feet for the bracket digging into the board.. i took it off and screwed directly onto the plate.. all was well didnt over tighten but got it so the cpu fan wouldnt move.
I was going to replace the bracket when i built the machine a coulpe of days ago but they looked identical (at the time) so decided not to.. am i going to have problems are as its working it will continue to work fine? (which is what i think)

I was ready to update my iPhoto, but I've seen so many reports of problems. Is anyone happy with it?

I don't want to lose my photos and I don't want a huge download problem. I was about to purchase iphoto '11, but hesitated when I saw so many issues here. But, it appears that my icloud photostream won't work without the upgrade. Did anyone have a trouble free transition, or is it one problem after another?

Remember the entire point of this forum is to help people who have problems. The millons of people who have none simply don't write here.
And, there are as many posts here from folks with issues with iPhoot 6, iPhoto 08, iPhoto 09 etc.
To use an old line, judging the software based on what you read here is like going to your local hospital late Saturday night and assessing the helth out your entire community
FWIW I had no issues upgrding.
As always, before upgrading anything make a back up. Or two.
Regards
TD

Can I find another plug in instead of Adobes problem Flash player. Happy for any tip of an alternative.

Adobe flash player has stop function. There is no way I can update it. Adobes update service say "the application already is running"
So I got tired on trying.
Now my question is - can I find another application so I can get Firefox Ok again.
I need to watch my videos from the university.

You don't have Flash installed, so it can't be running now.
# Restart Windows.
#Bring up Firefox, and install Flash from http://get.adobe.com/flashplayer/ but before you install, uncheck the Security Scan Plus. It has nothing to do with Flash Player and such additional baggage during installation is known as crapware. Only install the Flash Player.
#If the installation does not start use "Ctrl+J" to find the downloaded install and run it.
#When the install actually begins in an installation window, bring Firefox down with "Alt+F" (File) > Exit.
#If the installation does not proceed, then bring up the Windows Task Manager ("Ctrl+Alt+Del"), click on the "Processes" tab of the WTM and look for firefox.exe and plugins-container.exe and terminate if running.
#When the installation completes, restart windows, then bring up Firefox
#Check your Flash installation at http://www.adobe.com/software/flash/about/ to show that you have the latest Flash installed. (don't press the play now button).
#Check all of your Firefox plug-ins at http://www.mozilla.org/plugincheck/

Color Management Problem

I just installed Photoshop CS3 on my home PC, and seem to be having a problem with color management. When opening photos taken with my Canon G9, or even pictures downloaded off the web, in Photoshop they appear badly posterized. Viewing the same photos in the Canon ZoomBrowser, or with the standard Windows XP tools, they appear correct.
Obviously, my color management is not properly configured. I am using the standard North American defaults with sRGB for my RGB working space, and I've tried every RGB color management policy. My monitor is an older Dell 24" LCD (I don't have the model number in front of me right now). My monitor is not calibrated, but that would not account for the dramatic difference I see in Photoshop vs. other viewing applications.
The best I can achieve is by switching the RGB working space to Monitor RGB (or proofing with that configuration), and discarding the embedded color profile (sRGB in my Canon images). And yes, Photoshop does list the specific color space profile for my Dell monitor. This still results in a different color rendition from that which I see when viewing the same photo in other applications, with blues shifted slightly toward purple.
I have several other Mac and PC based Photoshop systems in my office, but I haven't had the chance to see how the same pictures look on those. It seems to me that this is something particular to the color space of my Dell monitor, but I'm not sure of the appropriate way to correct it.

Your prints are too dark. So you need to either make your monitor darker,
or your prints lighter. Given that you are probably fairly happy with your
monitor for cruising the web, etc, let's focus on your printer.
If it's like my HP, there is a brightness adjustment in the printer driver
under Start>Settings>Printers and Faxes><"printer name">. Adjust it until
the overall brightness of the print matches, as closely as possible, the
appearance of your screen.
To save paper and ink, I recommend that you print a thin strip at the top
of the page, and snip off the strip after each test.
Here is a test strip that you can use, with a variety of blurred skin tones
as well as a gray test strip. The procedure is documented here:
http://curvemeister.com/downloads/TestStrip/digital_test_strip.htm
As a final check, download images from any well-known web gallery and print
them, or use one of the calibration images from www.drycreekphoto.com . If
they are too dark or too light, you may want to revisit the brightness of
your monitor.
Trust your vision, and treat this as a learning experience. With a little
patience, and a systematic procedure, you can get good results without a
calibration device.
Monitor calibration devices are a valuable tool in a professional or high
end amateur setting. No one is saying they are a complete solution to
matching display to printer, and some final tweaking may be necessary for
matching print and display.

A Few Questions/Problems With My New iPod *PLEASE HELP*

Hello! I just received my first iPod (4th Gen, 4GB, Red Nano) two days ago (Christmas Eve) and have so far been fairly happy with it. However, I'm experiencing a few problems with it and am hoping that someone could help me.
Firstly, a few of the album covers on my iPod are just black squares. I've read other complaints about this on the forums, but haven't seen any solutions. What can I do to fix this?
Second, I can't figure out how to put my songs in order. On iTunes, it allows me to put songs in alphabetical order, but being that most of my songs are part of full albums, I want my songs to be in the order of when they play on the actual albums. When I try to drag my songs into their correct places, I'm not able to.
Also, is there any way to delete the games that my iPod came with? I think they might be taking up too much room for my liking...
OK, well if you can help or add some extra tips to getting started with my iPod, it would be much appreciated. Thank you!

Bump...

Screen Problems with iMac G5 20" (iSight)

Hello!
I had the same problem with my iMac G5 20" (iSight) as described by Bob North Apr. 18, 2006 at http://www.macintouch.com/readerreports/imacg5/topic2276.html#apr25:
"""" I repair Apple products, and recently I've seen strange and erratic display problems with the G5 flat-panel (iSight) 17" and 20"...and I am very curious about the origin. The picture will display what I will call "plaid pixles". Upon boot, the dispaly appears normal, but within 5-10 minutes, either at desktop or in ASD, the normal display will "crash" to the "plaid" display. The desktop, or whatever, can still be distinguished in the background, but it is overwashed by the plaid patterns -- which do change slightly, and also cover the full space of the screen. I've seen different scenarios, 3 in 2 weeks, where the symptom is exhibited with no particular failure pattern -- both before and after repair. I've replaced the main logic on one occasion, with no fix...but the 2nd try replaced both display panel and inverter. The display issue was fixed, but the system exhibited lockups only when it reached the destop. Another repair the same issue was seen after replacing the 20" main logic, where the symptom was not present previous. Personal opinion of the late 2005 IMAC flat-panels, in the hardware sense, is the likelihood of component manufacture issues, possibly the main logic boards or the panel displays themselves. Repair of this model, as opposed to the earlier, non-iSight flat-panel 17 and 20" models are extremely difficult -- access to main componenets is blocked by the display panel, which must be removed for each troubleshooting attempt. The internal hardware design is not oriented for repair ease...they are by far the most difficult to work on.
Any input regarding the display issues? Thanks.""""
I can't use the mouse or anything else, and after a while the fans start to go on max. This is the second time I encounter this problem within 30 days. What I have noticed is that the day before, the brightness of the screen started to "blink" slightly -- like if the screen tried to adjust itself.
But I haven't experienced what Bob North describes as the: "Upon boot, the dispaly appears normal, but within 5-10 minutes, either at desktop or in ASD, the normal display will "crash" to the "plaid" display".
I just restart with the power button and everything is working OK. I made an Extended Hardware test without any problems detected.
I have been looking for this issue with iMac G5 20" (iSight) and only found it at http://www.macintouch.com/readerreports/imacg5/topic2276.html#apr25 :
Apr. 18, 2006
bob north
I repair Apple products, and recently I've seen strange and erratic display problems with the G5 flat-panel (iSight) 17" and 20"...and I am very curious about the origin. The picture will display what I will call "plaid pixles". Upon boot, the dispaly appears normal, but within 5-10 minutes, either at desktop or in ASD, the normal display will "crash" to the "plaid" display. The desktop, or whatever, can still be distinguished in the background, but it is overwashed by the plaid patterns -- which do change slightly, and also cover the full space of the screen. I've seen different scenarios, 3 in 2 weeks, where the symptom is exhibited with no particular failure pattern -- both before and after repair. I've replaced the main logic on one occasion, with no fix...but the 2nd try replaced both display panel and inverter. The display issue was fixed, but the system exhibited lockups only when it reached the destop. Another repair the same issue was seen after replacing the 20" main logic, where the symptom was not present previous. Personal opinion of the late 2005 IMAC flat-panels, in the hardware sense, is the likelihood of component manufacture issues, possibly the main logic boards or the panel displays themselves. Repair of this model, as opposed to the earlier, non-iSight flat-panel 17 and 20" models are extremely difficult -- access to main componenets is blocked by the display panel, which must be removed for each troubleshooting attempt. The internal hardware design is not oriented for repair ease...they are by far the most difficult to work on.
Any input regarding the display issues? Thanks.
Apr. 19, 2006
Robert Mohns
bob north describes: "...recently I've seen strange and erratic display problems with the G5 flat-panel (iSight) 17" and 20"...and I am very curious about the origin. The picture will display what I will call "plaid pixles". Upon boot, the dispaly appears normal, but within 5-10 minutes, either at desktop or in ASD, the normal display will "crash" to the "plaid" display. The desktop, or whatever, can still be distinguished in the background, but it is overwashed by the plaid patterns -- which do change slightly, and also cover the full space of the screen."
Does it look anything like this?
http://downwardspiral.net/gallery/pbg4-display
My nearly 3 year old Titanium PowerBook G4 just did this one day, out of the blue. The problem went away after a few minutes, but I had already taken photos. Thanks to those photos, Apple gave the powerbook a new logic board.
(This PowerBook has had its logic board replaced twice, a new optical drive, and a cracked case edge replaced. AppleCare has more than paid for itself. Despite the occasional problems, I remain very happy with this machine. I'm sure I'd be much less happy if I had not bought AppleCare!)
Hubert

Hubert Frank,
To Apple Discussions!
What troubleshooting methods have you tried to solve your issue?
The knowledgeable users will need this info to avoid the "been there, done that" senerios.
Have you tried the methods mentioned in the following Knowledge Base Article?
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=301283 Troubleshooting when there's no picture on the display
Do you have AppleCare? If so, have you contacted them? If so, outcome?

T6060 volume problem

A friend of mine recently bought a set of T6060 5.1 speakers. Unfortunately, when using them he was unable to use something else on his pc bcause the speakers used the line-in socket. We did a trade (I had some 2.1 speakers) and he warned me that the remote volume control was very sensetive. Biggest understatement of all time. When I turn them on, I get no sound at all untill just after the number 2 on the dial. This is with computer volume on full. By about 2 /4 the sound is there, but not exactly loud. The music I listen to sounds best at a fairly loud volume so this is annoying. By 2 /3, just one little notch on the slider/dial thing, the volume is at full. For experimental purposes and so as to not make myself deaf, I turned the computer volume down quite low. Moving the dial between 2 /3 and max (or the equivalent of 10) make no difference at all. It is impossible to get the voulme at a suitable level for both listening to music and playing games. My friend suggested that I simply alter the volume in windows if it gets too loud, but if I have to minimise a game eery time I want to do this it will get very annoying, espeically when the remote should do the job.
Is there any way to fix this? Do I have to order a new remote (and where from?) or should I get the receipt (he still has it) and get the whole system replaced?
The soundcard I am using is a Sound Blaster Audigy ZX.
thanks.

I also have a set of T6060 5.1 speakers and they work perfectly! But your friend's right when he advised you to handle the remote control with caution, because they are a bit sensitive! I'm not sure as to whether the problem lies on your remote or your computer but if he has got the receipt, make sure you ask him to bring it for you in case of problems with your speakers! Now, what I advise you to do is to contact your customer support, because they are always quick when it comes to answering your e-mails! Also, contact them by phone to make sure that everyone knows your situation. Now, I have owned a lot of Creative speakers, but none of them had errors within the remote, so I think the problem relies on your computer, so check your sound settings and make sure that you have connected your speakers correctly and follow the guide that you recieved with your box. Another thing that you should note is, that you should not turn up the bass volume too much. Use it with caution, because you might break it if you play too wiht too loud bass! I have experienced that once with my P580 5.1 speaker system. I had to contact the support and they sended me a brand new one.
Good Luck! If you encounter any more problems, I will be happy to help you on my e-mail adress ([email protected]) or on this forum!

Cant get to the problem menu

I've been trying to report a problkem with a purchase and every time I click on "report a problem" a new window opens but not the "Problem Menu" window.
This is incredibl;y irritating since you just can't contact anybody by phone and no emails have been answered. The level of frustration is so bad I almost want to smash my IPhone IPad and my MacBook. Nearly ready to go back to Windows based devices. Does anyone know how to get to the "Problem Menu"?

We are so frustrated with not being able to talk to someone or even resolve the Itunes problem over their own resolution center that we refuse to buy another Apple product.I going to go back to Windows. When ever I had a problem with a windows application it was easily resolved every single time. My husband's blood pressure went up so high trying to get to the "Report Problem" window that I had to hide the laptop from him for fear he was going to have a heart attack. We spent countless hours over many days trying to get our money back from Itunes and not even one email from any of the dozens of responses we would have already received from Microsoft.
Up until our unresolved problem, we were very happy with Apple's equipment performance but their support *****. Sorry about the language but I'm extremely angry and don't know what else to do.

Problem/issue of nVidia GTX660M on GE60 0ND-298 with Windows 8.1

Hi folks,
I am newbie here, so please forgive me,
if my post is too long and ugly.
I have "almost" the same problem as the user called "Ghost", but in my case there
are few differences. I am too user of MSI GE60-0ND notebook, but the version is 298CZ (MSI GE60 0ND-298CZ).
some short info about me:
I am sort of experienced in PC maintenance, driver repairs, and software installing and setting up.
I had successfully and correctly helped at least ca. 35+ people (including few relatives and friends)
with some problems regarding their desktop PCs or notebooks,
mainly they needed from me to solve some specific problem - some reinstall or
correct install/set up of the OS and drivers and etc. or other software programs they need to use in everyday life.
I had correctly updated/reflashed BIOS or firmware on more than 25 PCs (on ca. 4-5 PCs in last 4 months).
but I am not very skilled in PC HW reparation and assembly.
The problem I had is possibly simple (or not), but until now I couldn't find the working solution written
on the MSi Forum/thread or anywhere on the internet.
I have everything up to date, including Windows OS (8.1), drivers, BIOS and EC/FW from MSI
(as you can see from specs taken from Speccy 1.25, DxDiag, nVidia control panel and other software).
Well (or not?), the problem is that high demanding apps, like modern games or some CAD software/benchmarks i had recently
tested shown that my notebook is only using
the Intel HD4000 Graphics (in all situations even when it shouldn't) and not the dedicated high-performance
nVidia GTX660M graphic.
I even used the nVidia Inspector 1.7.2 from the thread of Ghost's problem with the same nb/graphic card.
I played HL2 Ep Two and One, Garrys Mod 14.022 (latest), IL-2 Sturmovik: 1946 with Ultrapack 2.1 + SAS1946 updates
(with tweaked settings to use high-quality perfection/perfect settings)
to test and look if the dedicated graphics card is working or not. In all cases it shown that the nVidia GTX 660M
didn't even heat up some grade or load up the textures, and it appeared as non active against the HD4000 that run like wild.
In some of the above mentioned games it wasn't sufficient and the games crashed and/or closed suddenly-
that happened in Garrys Mod 14,
something same happened in that modded IL-2 Sturmovik: 1946 - but with it it crashed by saying that
"il2fb.exe has stopped working".
To tell you more, before when i had plain windows 8, it didn't happened even once
(for the IL-2 Sturmovik was and is still set in the compatibility mode for Win XP SP3 - so everything should work),
in the case of HL2 Ep. Two it happened almost same as in Garrys mod 14.x . The game simply shut down and quit,
and closed without saying anything.
By playing those games, i saw in the taskbar only the icon of Intel HD graphics 4000 looking as active.
The icon of nVidia in the taskbar panel stayed there or sometimes it completely disappeared,
and that indicates that pc was using only the Intel HD4000.
I tried to check for all updates, uninstall and reinstall Intel VGA HD4000 driver with latest official from Intel support,
and also after it by uninstall and reinstall of nVidia GTX660M driver with latest stable driver from nVidia page
with hope that the new drivers would do the thing and repair the errors/issues.
Until now I tried to solve my problem by myself,
but as nothing helped to solve the issue with dedicated nVidia card i had to visit this forum.
The current state of my pc to sum the facts together - to see what could be wrong there:
PC/Name-type: MSI GE60 0ND-298CZ (late summer 2013)
OS: Windows 8.1 (64-bit)
Tech specs: CPU - Intel Quad Core i7-3630QM Ivy Bridge 22nm,
RAM- 8GB DDR3/1600 MHz, HDD- 750GB (7200 rpm),
1. VGA (on chip)- Intel HD4000, 2. VGA- GTX 660M (2GB DDR5)
Motherboard: MS-16GA (HM76, rev. 1.0)
MB-BIOS version: E16GAIMS.514 (12/3/2013, installed 29.11.2013)
EC Firmware version: 16GAEMS1.506 (installed 30.11.2013)
Intel HD Graphics 4000 driver: v10.18.10.3412
NVIDIA GeForce GTX 660M driver: 334.89 (9.18.13.3489)
nVidia VGA BIOS Version: 80.07.27.00.05
Other drivers version
(which may cause the in-activity/problems of GTX 660M card)
- Intel Control Center v1.2.1.1008 **
- Intel Management Engine Components (ME) v8.1.0.1281 **
- Intel Management Engine Interface (MEI) v9.0.0.1287 **
- Intel SDK for OpenCL-CPU Only Runtime Package v2.0.0.37149
- NVIDIA PhysX System Software v9.13.1220
(** I have found some info that outdated (buggy) Intel ME and MEI drivers, could be the cause why the PC
uses only on board HD Graphics 4000 and can't switch to dedicated GTX 660 M when some app needs it,
could this be the thing or not?
I am really not sure, if it is cause why my PC is sticking on use of only HD4000 VGA.
Should i update the ME or MEI driver to latest stable as mentioned*** or not?
(*** on win-raid com in thread about latest Intel Management Engine Drivers-Firmware and Tools)
I am aware that a careless update of Intel ME or MEI can brick your PC or installed OS and make it unstable,
that is why i don't want to do that thing,
i want do some other way how to solve the correct vga switching issue.
Could you please help me, to detect where is the cause of the problem
and then to help me to solve it somehow ??
Please tell me also, if you need some other info
(i can send the DxDiag report if needed or something similar).
I know that my problem looks same way as had the user called "Ghost",
but in my case the details are a bit different and specific.
I will wait patiently for your advices.
Thanks in advance.

Thank you, for that little advice.
Sorry i didnt answered sooner, was kinda busy last weeks.
I will specify the problem more - explain my investigation about the issue.
But I have GE60 0ND, and i somewhere read (on this forum but in other thread/topic)
that on GE 60 0ND the power button doesnt change its color from blue, either it actually uses Intel HD4000 or nVidia GPU GTX660 M.
If i am not wrong in that, i hope so / i can say that on my lap the power button never changed its color to some other.
It was and still is blue.
What i found from Speccy or from Nvidiainspector soft v1.9.7.2 was that my nVidia is generally
never used - even in games which were more demanding and were set in nVidia control panel to use nVidia GPU only
and NOT the HD4000.
But i think there is also there some other, far deeper and worser problem.
In last few days I was checking the possible issues with current Intel chipset driver (Intel INF driver - currently v9.3.1025) and also with Intel Mangement Engine drivers (currently ME Components driver 8.1.1281 and ME Interface driver 9.0.1287).
To tell you more, the problem with GPU drivers started shortly after i updated the Win8 to 8.1, but other confusing symptom is that shortly after the pc boots up in to OS environment,
the screen flicker one time and then the nVidia's control panel icon in taskbar will dissapear.
That happens around one to five times in halfhour or hour, after the laptop was turned on. I am very confused, from it, because it looks like the pc is unstable or the Windows Explorer is crashing. After the holfhour it stops doing it, but some time ago i tried to fix it by comletely uninstalling and then reinstalling both of VGAs (HD4000 and nVidia GTX660M) with latest stable and official drivers - but it didnt solved the issue.
Also the icons on the desktop and in taskbar dissapear for a second and then reappear.
I tried to figure it out many times, but found that it wasnt Windows Explorer error. What is this problem?
Is it in INF chispet driver and ME/MEI driver or it is caused by some other corrupted driver?
I even wrote some notes about what I found out.
So there are my findings. The ME and MEI driver are responsible
for deciding the use of and handling interaction between the system's low- and high- performance/importance and on motherboard installed components.
If they are wrong or incompatible it causes some errors or that some of the used component will be not used because of the error.
Also same role, but sorta a bit different has the INF chipset driver, which is sorta above the ME and MEI driver and governs over them and over use of the other
CPU and MB components and periipheral devices, like USB2-3 controllers, Cardreader, charging function etc.
So my question is, i have found on Intel support Chipset INF driver for 7 series - the v9.4.1027 (November 2013), about which i read
that is also suitable for 7 series express chipsets like HM76/77 (my is 76)- should i try to install these drivers ?
Same, i had a hard work to find more current ME and MEI driver for notebook with Intel's 7 series express chipset
which should solve my problem. I found on Lenovo support webpage ME driver v9.0.1310 (components driver) and MEI driver v9.0.1287(interface),
they are both in one installer.
I read about that installer in description and found out that,
that drivers are useful on any lap with the 7 series chipset.
Just the Lenovo added note that those drivers and higher are usable on some other newly adde types of notebooks.
The provider of the driver was Intel.
I carefully read also some other info, and just few days ago i read also
if someone want/really neeeds to update
Intel INF chipset driver and after it the ME/MEI driver - one should unistall all drivers that are managed by that INF and ME/MEI drivers.
That means both VGA drivers (CPU GPU and dedicated GPU), Cardreader driver, LAN and WLAN drivers,
audio driver, all intel drivers - like Rapid storage, SCM driver and so, and manually uninstall the ME Interface driver through Device Manager too.
My other question is, could someone of you help with this by telling me some other information/advice i possibly completely overlooked.
Currently, my PC is working poorly - not slow, but the blicking of the icons on desktop and taskbar shortly after the system's start up
is totally horrible and the nVidia GPU GTX660M is unable to work (by crashing the Nvidia control panel).
I feel now really lost on this GE60 laptop altough i have good experience how to set PC or notebook.
I never faced this kind of problem - i would be happy if i knew the way how to fix it for once/definitely and use the fullpotential of that notebook.
Every advice or your experience will be very welcomed.
Thanks

2nd dead iPod Touch 4G in 2 months? Battery/charging problems!

Hi everyone,
It seems as of tonight that I will have to return my second iPod Touch 4G in the last two months. In both cases, it was an issue where the device would no longer charge, and became very hot on the top of the back panel when the device was turned on even for a few seconds (while not being plugged in). In the first case, the device seemed to be defective from the time I opened the box, which was confirmed at an Apple Store, but they asked me to ship it to Apple Repair to be checked out. Apple took a very long time to get a replacement to me, but was good about that problem, and I was happy with the replacement for the past month when all of a sudden tonight the new one would not change and became very hot.
Is this an issue that anyone else has seen? I essentially only charged it off of my laptop or a wall charger unit, but it seems like the battery essentially is shorting out. I love this device, but actually need to use a PDA-type device enough that I am questioning whether I should get a replacement or go back to my old Palm TX.
Thanks for any thoughts/feedback on my iPod Touch 4G battery/charging problems.
Message was edited by: eliotjasper

Most battery complaints complain about loss of charge. The iPod is designed to lose heat through the back as the battery discharges. This is most common when using the device a lot - like playing games. If yours will no loner charge, by all means return it to Apple.
As far as being a PDA goes, it is as good as any smart phone out there. The PDA, as you once knew it, is dead and has been for 5+ years. Take your iPod to an Apple store and insist on a replacement.

Disk Error Problem on Imac

Please can anyone help.
I decided to partition my disk so that I could use both windows XP and mac as Apple says you can, however I have incurred a problem part way through the process.
I created a partition for windows and then inserted my Windows XP disk with SP2(Student Version). I selected the right partition for Windows XP ("C:Partition3<Bootcamp>etc) and it completed two processing screens but now my computer is showing the following message...
Press any key to boot from CD.....
Disk Error
Press any key to restart
Sounds simple enough but I have pressed a key...several keys...all keys and nothing happens (I have a wireless keyboard and mouse - is this the problem?). I cannot eject the disk and when I switch the whole computer off and then back on I just get to the same screen and nothing happens. I have tried pressing the mouse key to eject the disk and pressing the C key as someone suggested in a previous reply but nothing changes.
This is a new switch over to mac for me - the computer is only 2 weeks old and so far I have been really happy with my mac. This is my first problem (which says something I suppose). I rang the mac suport number however there is no support available today! (not very supportative!) Is there anyone on this board who may be able to shed some light on this problem. I am happy not to partition my disk any more if it is just going to cause me problems and just stick with mac.

I just spent the weekend dealing with this.
First, the previous poster is correct as to why this is happening. The reason you are having the problem is because Boot Camp Assistant formatted the XP partition as FAT32. It needs to be NTFS. Windows Setup is supposed to ask you how to format the new partition (see page 13 of the Boot Camp manual). If your experience is like mine, Windows Setup never asks that question. It simply goes from you selecting the C: drive (Boot Camp manual page 11) to the installation process (a blue screen yellow bar marking progress as things are copied to the partition).
Here is a link to the manual that I'm referring to if you don't have it already: http://manuals.info.apple.com/en/BootCampInstall-Setup.pdf
I do not know why the format step is being skipped in some installs but not in all. Call it an "undocumented feature" (e.g., bug).
Here is how to fix it:
If you are still at the black screen, simply use the power switch to turn off your computer (on the back, round button, bottom left when facing screen, bottom right when facing the back). Hold that switch in for about 5 seconds and the iMac will shut down. Release the switch, wait 10 seconds or so then press it again to start back up.
You should still have the XP CD in the drive. This is what you want. You will get a blue screen with white text in the upper left hand corner that says "Windows Setup." On the bottom of the screen there will be some words telling you this and that is loading. Keep an eye on this. It will slowly list a bunch of things that it is loading. Toward the end, it will say something like "Starting Windows Setup." At this point, press and hold the F10 button. Keep holding it until you get a black screen with white text.
You are now in the Recovery Manager. You will be asked what volume you want. The only choice you should have is 1. This is your new Windows partition, it is not your Mac OS partition. YYou may safely type "1" (without quotes) and press return. Then, the prompt will look like this:
C:\Windows\
At the prompt, you type "cd.." (without quotes) and press return, the prompt will now look like this:
C:\
Now, we are going to reformat your windows partition as NTFS. To do so, at the prompt type the following without quotation marks "format c: /fs:ntfs" When typed into the prompt, it will look like this (pay close attention to spacing)
C:\format c: /fs:ntfs
It will give you a warning and ask if you are sure. Type "y" and press return. It will take some time to format and you will see a percentage counter counting up from 1% to 100%. When it is done, you will be back at the C:\ prompt where you will just type "exit" and press return.
Now, Windows Setup should proceed normally.
I think this is correct from memory. Credit to this Austrian guy over at this link about half way down (named diagonalinho http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=6061718) that summarizes the steps as well. Looks like English is not his first language so I didn't understand initially but it worked for me.

Problem with Stacked Bar

I need to show details about messages transactions.
I decided to use a Stacked Bar chart to view present number of trans' of different types by their date.
I use this query in all the series:
select null link, sd label, c value
from (select trunc(STARTDATE) sd, count(TRANS_ID) c
from TRANSACTION
where ERROR = 'OK' and MSGTYPE = 'THE_MSG_TYPE_VALUE'
group by trunc(STARTDATE)
order by trunc(STARTDATE) )
the chart is presented, and i thought it's correct. apparently not.
in some msg types it placed its colored column in wrong date (i think it's because it's the only type that has transaction/s in this date). it simply was added to the other columns serially.
the correct (and expected) result was to place it in separate column and not to add it to the other series.
maybe i should add something in the query. if someone encountered this problem, i'd be happy to take advices.

Here's my result with six values in a single series. I double clicked the last bar to change its colour from the default grey (which was visible) to magenta.
Numbers 2.0.3, iBook G4, OS X v10.4.11
(Shot in the dark:) Try double clicking the value label, then changing the order position of this item.
Regards,
Barry

Despite problems I'm fairly happy

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