Display housing is damaged.

my matchbook pro 15" mid 2010 display housing is damaged and seems to be pulling away at the hinge connection. Is this something that can be repaired by someone who i s handy or does it need to be done by a specialist?
Thanks

MedlockDustin,
for TextMate, you’ll need to download TextMate 2.0 alpha, since earlier versions of TextMate aren’t supported on Mavericks. The file will be named “nightly”; save it to your desktop. Once the “nightly” file has finished downloading, rename it to “TextMate.app.tar.bz2” — that will give it the “BZ” icon on your desktop. Once it’s been renamed, you can double-click on it, and TextMate.app will appear on your desktop. Use your administrative login to move TextMate.app to your Applications folder.
Regarding the “unidentified developer” message displayed by trying to open git 1.8.4.2, please refer to this Apple page for the workaround.

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HT201364 texmate and git 1.8.4.2 won't work on OS X Mavericks. I've downloaded them repeatedly and the following errors display "Textmate is damaged and can't be opened" and Git states "can't be opened because it's from an unidentified developer". Please

texmate and git 1.8.4.2 won't work on OS X Mavericks. I've downloaded them repeatedly and the following errors display "Textmate is damaged and can't be opened" and Git states "can't be opened because it's from an unidentified developer". Please help!

MedlockDustin,
for TextMate, you’ll need to download TextMate 2.0 alpha, since earlier versions of TextMate aren’t supported on Mavericks. The file will be named “nightly”; save it to your desktop. Once the “nightly” file has finished downloading, rename it to “TextMate.app.tar.bz2” — that will give it the “BZ” icon on your desktop. Once it’s been renamed, you can double-click on it, and TextMate.app will appear on your desktop. Use your administrative login to move TextMate.app to your Applications folder.
Regarding the “unidentified developer” message displayed by trying to open git 1.8.4.2, please refer to this Apple page for the workaround.

Replacing Display housing for Early 2008 Macbook pro. older housing ok?

Hi guys! i have the newest Penryn Early 2008 Macbook pro 2.6 and have had an accident with the aluminum of the display housing. I am currently trying to find a compatible case to replace it with. I cant seem to find spare display housing that are made particularly for the new macbook pros for some reason =(
I've heard that there are different moulds of the Display housing since there are 3 different manufacturer for the LCD screen? (LG, SAMSUNG,CHIMEI)
Would the display casings of the older Intel Macbook pro work as long as I match the manufacturer? (e.g. if i have the display casing from a samsung early 2008 macbook pro, would this be compatible with the 2006 or 2007 samsung display housing?)
i have found a case for an older samsung http://www.welovemacs.com/9227221.html and chimei here
http://www.welovemacs.com/9227351.html
Please help me out if you have any idea! thanks in advance =)
Message was edited by: wcngu1
Message was edited by: wcngu1

There is a service that I have yet to try but it looks pretty reliable and they service macs in virtually every way possible. Go to macservice.com and just follow the steps and choose what you want to repair. For MacBook pro you an get the display housing replaced for about $200, I know that is a bit steep but it's the easiest way to get it repaired. If you do use it let me know how you liked it.
Message was edited by: CaptainBump

House fire damage to iMac

We recently had a house fire at our town home cluster. Our unit was damaged with smoke residue. The visible damage was in the room with our one year old 27 inch iMac. Is there some documentation or insurance standard that will allow for replacement? Everything with the insurance company is a fight and we fear the iMac failing a month or two after the claim is settled. Their response is "If it turns on it is OK".

It may cost you a bit out of pocket, but you might be able to take it to a service provider and have them do a diagnostic and open it to see if there is any visible damage. But, as varjak paw, the insurance company can just ignore it, but I would think with a written evaluation it would be harder for them to do so. And if they don't find anything wrong, it may give you peace of mind.
That being said, if the damage to your apartment was only smoke and the computer was turned off, there shouldn't be too much smoke residue drawn inside and once you clean off the outside, it should be fine.

Will more recent MacBook Pro 15' Display Assemblies be compatible with my mid 2009 MBP?

My question will be geared towards folks who have experience doing self repairs on their MacBook Pros but I do welcome all helpful input. It breaks my heart to say that my MacBook Pro was dropped and now has a broken LCD/LED screen with a dented Display Housing(Lid) but the Front glass Display is fine. It is currently acting as a desktop with an external monitor. I am looking to do some self repairs as the price they charge at the genius bar isn't worth it for the older model and I am comfortable enough to do the repairs myself. I've been doing some research and it is possible to get the pieces individually(Not through apple directly) but now it becomes a compatibility game. In short, I have a mid 2009 15' 2.53GHz macbook pro but I will post a link to my tech specs.
http://support.apple.com/kb/SP544
My two options for self repair are either to
A) Buy an entire Display Assembly which I can swap out with my broken one OR
B) Buy a new LCD/LED screen and Display housing
I am leaning towards option B because the cost to replace the LED display is much cheaper but I am having no luck finding a relatively cheap, non damaged 2009 15' Display Housing. Some online stores that do sell it go for ridiculously high which in the end would make option A cheaper. I don't actually need to replace the Display Housing for the computer to work but I can't stand to look at the dent so I'll be doing the replacement.
So back to my original question. When searching for parts or an entire Display Assembly, would more recent models such as 2010, 2011, 2012 or 2013 parts be compatible with mine? Or were all models created differently and must be replaced with same year/model parts?

Yes. Any 2.5" 9.5 mm thick SATA HDD, SSHD or SSD will fit and be compatible with your MBP.
Ciao.

Caller display not worked since June 2014

On 26/06/14 I reported a fault (VOL-**********) that the caller display function had stopped working following a thunderstorm in the area. According to the fault status this fault is showing as being corrected and closed on 02/07/14 when in fact the fault still exists. I tested the line using the BT test socket with a new BT2000 phone and this displayed ‘incoming call’ therefore my internal wiring is not part of the problem. I have also dialled the test code *#234# to check if the caller display service is available and confirmed that it is. I then tested the new BT2000 phone on the neighbour’s telephone line and this showed the caller ID for incoming calls, as did my other telephone as well; therefore none of the telephone handsets are at fault. Three times BT have informed me that the fault has been fixed and yet I still have no caller display. Reading through the forums it would appear that other people have encountered similar issues and that the problem is at the exchange, “An Openreach engineer discovered that the RS232 burst transferring the CLI number up the line was too weak and he then went down to the exchange to investigate. He then discovered that the fault lay in the ADSL device which lies between the analogue exchange equipment and the outgoing line”.
I’m surprised to see that BT are taking so long to trace a fault in their system last raised 5/8/2014 (VOL012-**********) and that they haven’t sent an engineer to the property or to the exchange to check the problem.
My patience is wearing thin over this problem with my Caller Display not working as it started in mid June. I’m also becoming less enthusiastic about BT and find it harder to recommend them to others.
My last message from BT, tells me that it should be back to normal on the 8 August. However, it is still not working. Their message that my phone should be back to normal now and if it isn’t report this to BT, is ridiculous. If an engineer had investigated what was causing the fault and found it, then he would have fixed it. However, either an engineer has not investigated the fault or BT is not competent in fixing their own service faults and makes these statements with crossed fingers?

An engineer called yesterday and told me that he had been asked to test the line for a voice fault not a Caller Display fault. However, his testing revealed there is no line fault, CLI signal is strong and he was happy that the new BT2000 phone (bought after the lightning strike) is working properly. (This phone had also been tested on a neighbour’s phone line where it displayed the callers number). He also found that this same BT2000 phone on my line was not displaying the Caller’s number (CLI), but couldn’t offer any reason why.
I conjectured with him that these tests must bring the problem down to a corrupted CLI signal which does not allow the phone to understand the phone number being sent.
When the lightning struck the phone line back in June, it blew the telephone connection in the back of the Sky Box with a flash and bang (telephone cable now removed from the Sky box). It shorted the Openreach Faceplate (now replaced) so that the phones and broadband stopped working and it caused the phone to light up and react as it does when a call comes through.
Now isn’t it possible that the lightning also travelled along the copper wire to the green cabinet just outside the house and damaged something there which is corrupting the CLI signal, but which does not not show up when the voice line is tested? If not, then there must be a problem further back in the infrastructure, possibly in the Exchange, that is causing a corrupted signal to be sent to my phone?
He told me that another team would have to investigate the Caller Display fault as he was instructed to look into a voice issue and as a field engineer he was not able to investigate any problem that might be in the Exchange. I don’t know whether this Exchange Team would be able to investigate a problem in the Cabinet if nothing is found in the Exchange or can that only be done by a field engineer? He told me to contact BT again as he’d done all that he had been instructed to do and they would have to instigate a fault team to further investigate the problem.
When all this is considered we have the basic problem that BT are unable to provide me with a Privacy and Caller Display Service that I have been paying for, because of a fault in their infrastructure. How much longer is it going to take before they correct the problem that’s been going on since June 2014?

Macbook Model A1138 display problem

Hi fellow Mac users. I have a Macbook Model a1138 with a 15" screen. Its been a great computer till now. In the last month the screen has gone all wonky. If you move the screen at all it develops a horizontal line at about 1/3 of the way down the screen...below the line is a shaded image of the screen...the cursor stops working when you bring it below that line. If you navigate to a new page on the browser, the area below the line stays on the same page. I assume that whatever new signal is being transmitted to the screen is only making it to the top portion of the screen. Heres where it gets weird. If you move the screen again it will sometimes correct and stay stable until you jostle it. Also, if you give the display a pinch at the line area it will sometimes correct. Do I need a new display or is this a connection issue?

First off, you have a MacBook PRO, not a MacBook. It's easy to tell since MacBooks only come in 13.3" sizes. Plus it'll say "Pro" under the display.
That aside, it sounds like you probably have a loose and/or pinched video cable. I guess it's up to you if you want to attempt some of the quick fixes yourself, because if you're not careful you may end up making things worse. So if the system is under warranty, take it somewhere to get worked on, otherwise read on if you're willing to assume the risks of whatever happens.
First thing to do after removing the bottom cover (the screws are PH00) is to locate the battery connector. It's pretty easy to spot, since it's right by the battery, and looks completely different from all other connectors. Use your fingernail or something non-metalic to gently pry it up and out of it's slot.
Now, the video cable is the one in the top right corner that is put in at an angle. Sometimes it has a little EMF gasket on it that needs to be peeled off. There should be a small black flap on the front side of the connector. This pulls up, then goes up and over the connector to release the latch. Then the connector pulls straight back. Now that you've removed it, you simply put it back in, and make sure the connection is solid. Then swing that little locking lever back over, put the gasket back on, reconnect the battery if you want, and see how things go. You may wish to hold off putting the screws back in until you know things are working.
If that doesn't fix it, then it would require taking apart the display housing, and you run the risk of damaging the hinges if you don't have something to keep the system lined up properly while taking the weight off. So, if the above doesn't fix it, then there's something more serious wrong that you really should take to someone better equipped. You may need a whole new video cable or even a new display. But again, if this is under warranty, do NOT try anything above, take it in to be serviced by a professional.

If I move the display my pismo loses power

Hi all, I have a pismo, and it works great...except when I physically move the display forward or back an inch. Then the power cuts out. Goes dead. It'll start up again okay but if I move it at all, it dies. The backside of the display does have a small crack in it, made by yours truly when I took the display housing off to install a new motherboard. I'm pretty good with these, and am wondering if I need a complete new display and housing, or if there's a part in there that just needs fixing, or if it's something in the pb itself. Anyone have any ideas?

David,
I don't believe a bad display or damaged data or inverter cables can shut the 'book down. I believe that when you move the display, you are torquing/stressing the main body and this is somehow causing a circuit to open. With the display open at 90º to the body and the powerbook running, pick up the powerbook by each corner, each end, or if necessary hold it in your hands and gently twist it...see if it will shut down. I would try the same if you have not done so on battery-only in addition to the power adapter.
I cannot tell you which component is at fault, but users who have had similar problems were usually able to correct it by a disassembly and careful reassembly while looking closely at all connections.

HP G70-460US Bezel Display?

I recently disassembled my laptop in an attempt to repair the left side hinge; however, I discovered that it was not the hinge that was broken, but the plastic housings of the screws that hold the hinge in place. A made a temporary repair with superglue, but two weeks later my laptop is back to snapping and cracking every time I open it. What I would like to do is replace the display on my computer--not the screen itself, because there is nothing wrong with the LCD panel, but the plastic casing around it to which the hinge is attached. Search engines such as Google and the HP website suggest parts such as the LCD bezel assembly; if I order this, will I be able to repair my problem?
This question was solved.
View Solution.

The bezel is the top plastic piece. What you need is the display housing or display back cover.
488379-001 In stock
LCD back cover - For 17-inch display panel
RoHS: Modified
If you google the part number you can find it on ebay and elsewhere but the HP price is pretty fair.
The screw holes are likely damaged because the hinges have seized up. They still look OK but they have become too diificult to move so it puts stress on the screws. You need to replace the display back and the hinges.

Macbook display issue - vertical band

The LCD display on my daughter's Macbook got fried because she dumped a drink on it - yes, it was alcoholic. She had some else's fried MacBook laying around so I harvested the LCD display from it and put it in her Macbook. The swap went just fine.
I booted her machine and found a vertical stripe on the right 1" of the display.
You can see the stripe in the photos here:
http://gallery.me.com/carlfino#100011
I checked the connection from the video cable to the lcd display and all was well. I know it's not the connection from the motherboard to the video cable because this stripe did not exist on the previous display and I didn't affect this connection when I swapped the lcd display.
I have no history on the display that I placed in the unit, so I guess it's possible that this stripe was a problem embedded in that display. But, if any of you have suggestions on what could cause this I'd like to hear them.
Regards,
Carl...

I have not tried an external display. The only time it is not there is on bootup, when the grey screen shows. As soon as any colored desktop image shows up the band is there. I also removed the video display cable from the back of the display while the machine was running. As soon as I removed the video cable, the screen went grey, and the band was not there. When I plugged the video cable back in, the stripe returned. Clearly, it's a video problem - the question is whether the problem is rooted in the motherboard or on the lcd display side. I suspect the lcd display, because even though the previous display had liquid damage, I could see the entire display and the vertical band was not present.
Carl...

27" LED display drawing too much USB power?

I'm having the infamous "USB device is drawing too much power" issue, but in my case it's a little different. Whenever I plugin the USB cord from my 27" LED display to the MacBook, it results in the above error (too much power, USB is disabled).
I've narrowed down the following:
1. Happens on two different MacBook Pros.
2. Happens when LED display is powered from different outlets.
3. It seems 2 of the 3 USB ports on the back of the display are not working.
This started happening after I moved about a month ago and reconnected everything, including a USB Hub I was using previously. I also have a SD card reader, all of which was plugged in and ready to go. When I powered up everything, the lights on the Card Reader and USB were actually pulsing, which didn't look right so I immediately powered everything down. Checked all connections and tried again. Same thing happened, so I unplugged the card reader and USB hub.
At this point, I had my keyboard plugged into the monitor which is how it was prior (before my move). I powered up everything again and while waiting for the keyboard to come on (the keys are illuminated), I noticed it was actually VERY hot - the underside of the keyboard. So I unplugged it and had a little bit of a sonofa***** moment. The keyboard seemed fried. It wouldn't come on for anything, so I went and bought a new one.
Soon as I get home, I plugged the new keyboard directly into the laptop and ignored the external LED display. Everything seemed to work fine, so I tried plugging the external monitor in, but soon as I connected the USB cord... this error pops up every single time.
Is this a USB cord issue (on the LED display) or what? I'm at a loss of what could have happened, since when I moved everything was transported very carefully. The LED display was even in it's original retail box, so nothing was damaged in the move, USB cord included.
Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated. I know ultimately I may need to bring it in for repair (still within warranty as I purchased the display in May 2011)... but I'm trying this first incase anyone has any ideas that could help me avoid that hassle.

Smc reset sometimes addresses some power issues.
It is possible that when that first keyboard failed when plugged into the back of the display it somehow damaged the display usb ports.
If you are under warrantee, take it to apple and let them deal with it.

IPod mini 1st Gen. Display problem

Hello everybody!
I've got a problem with my iPod mini display: In the last few weeks the display got brighter and brighter.. or should I say I lost the contrast? .. so now I can't see anything on the display. The iPod works very well but I have to use it blind And the problem ist not solved by using the contrast settings! But now I can't see the seetings anyway I think, the display is internally damaged or something like this..? Do you have any idea? Thank you very much for your help!
Greetings from Hamburg, Germany
Marco
iMac G5 20 Mac OS X (10.4.5)

Did you try these?
The Five Rs.
If nothing helps, and you think it needs repair, you can arrange online service here.
Service request.

Ibook g3 Display Case Broken

My daughter accidentally knocked our computer off the table last night and the casing around the display is broken. Not cracked just coming apart now. The display works fine but I need to fix the casing. What is the best way to do this?
Thanks.

Which model is it (MHz rating and optical drive specs)?
There are two different types of case on the iBook G3 (Dual USB), so in order to find one that matches, we need to know which model it is.
Do you want to try this yourself? It's quite complicated, requiring nearly complete disassembly of the iBook to get to the display housing.
http://www.powerbooktech.com/knowledge,name-Display-Housing,type-6.htm
(Note the links of "Things to do first" at the top of the instructions.)

Airport and External Display

Greetings,
Today I started using a secondary Display with my Macbook using the miniDvi to Dvi original Apple adaptor. After few minutes (10 max) the airport loses the connection with my wireless router and can not detect any wireless networks. I restored the connection by shutting down the Macbook, removing the adaptor from the Macbook and starting the Macbook. Also I reproduced this problem another two times by doing the whole cycle twice.
Has anyone else noticed this?

The Airport card is located inside the black plastic display hinge cover, and is cabled through one of the hinges to the logic board. If your display hinges were damaged, that cable may have been cut or shorted out. You'll have to investigate that before deciding whether it's worth replacing the card in your crippled MBP.

I am a new iphone 4 user... I have insurance what does the Manufacturer Cover in damages or design flaws ?

I recently was talked into upgrading to an iphone 4.....I Love Apple and all of their products and accessories!!! My son & I have become computer genius
within 5 minutes, there is actually an app for everything....Except a design flaw or water/steam damage? I was hoping to resolve this unfortunate experience!!!
I had my iphone 4 in the outlet in the hallway near my bathroom.. I love the 80's I Heart Radio App...Apparently, the phone has water damage and needs to be looked at or replaced. I have been to 3 AT & T Stores before I received excellent customer service by speaking to the store manager...I had a different design flaw with Moto Atrix was still within the Manufacture waranty. They said it was a desin flaw with the keyboard...not able to fix and would have to pay the deductable.. That is not good enough!!! I buy everything i this i that!!! I can't live without my iphone I have money with Starbucks and also linked to Shell Rewards
and Speedway... Not to mention all my personal numbers, emails, facebook friends.....The phone was not dropped in water and was not in the same room as water but being 10 to 20 feet away something with the steam set off the water display for water damage??? I don't know why this is? When I first started on my quest with AT&T I thought I would have a grace period or design flaw? Please help!! I am unable to conduct daily day to day things without my iphone I was advised if they cracked my SIM card it's broken forever???

If the little built-in water detector on the iphone shows positive, ie water damage, then Apple will not do anything for you under warranty. The best thing that they will offer you is a swap to an identical (new phone) at a price around £150 in UK or the equivalent in your own country. If you are backing up to iCloud (or your computer), the new replacement unit will be able to load up all your old information etc. everything apart from synced data like music which you will need to re-upload.
You could argue that the water damage sensor on the iPhone is too sensitive etc. but Apple don't respond too well to this although you will be in a better position (and will be listened to more sympathetically) if you have bought AppleCare for your iPhone.
I know that this is annoying but I hope that you manage to get your problem resolved soon.

Display housing is damaged.

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