Do I still need to reset my router?

I moved my cable modem and router (Linksys E1000) to a different outlet, so I had to power everything down. It's now set up and running again, and I know it's working fine because my laptop connects wirelessly. However, my desktop, printer, and TV won't reconnect. All of the devices show my SSID as the first available option, but I get error messages when I try to connect - my desktop says to reset my router, my TV says to check my connection.
Would I be able to resolve the issues on my other devices by resetting my router, even though it's working fine with my laptop? I'm reluctant to do so only because I don't want to risk losing the currently working connection to my laptop.
Update: I just tried connecting my phone, and it's asking for my network password. I tried both the router's PIN, as well as the passphrase. Neither works. Error message says network password is incorrect.

Wow. I solved it - didn't know I needed to enter the dashes in the security key.

Similar Messages

New Internet Service, Do I Need to Reset E2500 Router?

I had temporarily used my E2500 router to work with a wireless broadband source by connecting it to a Cradlepoint CTR500.
Now I will be connecting the E2500 to run (permanently) with Time Warner Roadrunner using a Scientific Atlanta WebSTAR DCP 2100 cable modem . Since I am changing the source of the internet, do I need to reset the E2500 back to the factury defaults and then perform a new set-up on it using the Cisco Connect software?
The cable modem is currenlty connected via ethernet cable directly to the PC. I had read that removing the ethernet and cable connection from the cable modem and powering the modem down for 10 minutes will cause the modem to "forget" the PCs MAC address. Once the PC's MAC address had been "forgotten", connect the modem's ethernet cable to the router, which will make the modem pick up the router's MAC address, and eliminate the need for cloning the PC's MAC address. Does this sound correct?
Solved!
Go to Solution.

Unplugging the power to the cable modem for 30seconds should be good enough. As for the router, you should be able to get by without a reset if it is set to DHCP for the internet connection type.
I don't work for Cisco. I'm just here to help.

Do I need to reset the router when switching between Win and Mac?

I just set up my new Mac Pro with OSX 1.5.2 and Win XP using Bootcamp and it all works fine, but I have one question about connecting to the internet.
I have a Belkin pre-N wireless router. I am connected using an ethernet cable.
When I switch between OSX and Windows by restarting the computer, is it necessary to restart the router while the computer is off so that when it comes back on it can locate its proper connection?
When I was working on my old PC and my new Mac Pro, I noticed that if I just took the ethernet cable from the Mac or PC and connected it to the other machine, it couldn't find the internet unless I turned off the router, waited a moment and turned it back on again, connected to the other machine and then started the machine.
As the two OSs are now in the same machine, will this continue to happen or can I simply switch between operating systems without having to re-initialize the router and connect it before turning on the computer again?
I haven't tried it yet because I am afraid to screw things up, so I am continuing to turn off, restart the router, re-connect and turn the computer on again. That work perfectly but it is tedious.
Can anyone please advise on whether this is necessary or not?
Thanks a lot for any advice.

Luis:
You should be able to leave the router on and switch between the two OSes. Try it. Worst thing that can happen is that you would need to restart the router.
Axel F.

Need to reset password, lost install disc

I have a wireless router, Model WRT54GS v7. I moved recently, and I need to reset the password to connect wirelessly. I've lost the install discs during my move. What do I need to do?

The reason why the admin is no longer working as the router password because you might have setup a router password, not knowing, during the first time you setup your router...If you remember the router password when you first used your setup cd to install your router then enter that password else you need to reset your router and re-configure it...
To reset the router press and hold the reset button for 30 seconds...Release the reset button...Unplug the power cable from your router, wait for 30 seconds and re-connect the power cable...Now re-configure your router...
If your Internet Service Providor is Cable follow this link
If your Internet Service Providor is DSL follow this link
Then adjust the Wireless Settings as suggested in the previous post...

Need to Reset Password for Partental Controls

I need to get into Parental Controls to make changes and I don't have my password. What can I do? My password hint is not of any help.
Thank you,
Kat

What is the model number of your router?
If you have Linksys E series or valet router and you are using Cisco connect for parental control then you will need to reset the router and reinstall the Cisco connect. See this link.

WRTG54T - Constant Have to Reset the Router

Hello - I have a WRTG54T Wireless Router. I have my Dell Lattitude (that is wired) to the Router as well as a Dell Lattitude D600 connected wirlessly. I recently downloaded Norton Internet Security and now, while it shows my router is working, I need to reset my router a few times a week - even 2-3 times a day. This never happened before I downloaded Norton. So - I dont know if this is a coincidence or what. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks - Rob

Norton Internet Security sometimes block wireless internet access... try to find a way (usually there is a setting in it) that will allow you to connect wirelessly w/out any issues... if not try to change the wireless channel of the router to 11...

Recovey Procedure after "Reset of Router" is what?

On comcast cable
Have 3 wired Win XP Home version PC's & one wirelessly connected Visa Laptop connected to a Linksys WRT54G ver.6 router.Works great .Want to ADD a Win 7 laptop, but have "lost" router password .All units have Cisco Network Magic Pro 5.5 installed. If I elect to Reset the Router to Factory Default ...what is the procedure to bring everything back online..Try as I might I cannot find the recipe or procedure to get back online
OR how about ..what if I bought a new Linksys 160N ? Could I simply disconnect the old router & re install the new one without having to do anything manually. Just depend on the software to automatically confiure my network . And just be super careful to protect my paswords in the future ?

I guess you are asking about the Network Key or the Security Key needed to connect the Wireless Network on the Wireless computer...If yes then,you can get the key by loging into the setup page of the router...
Open an Internet Explorer browser page on your wired computer(desktop).In the address bar type - 192.168.1.1 and press Enter...Leave Username blank & in Password use admin in lower case...Under the Wireless tab,click on the Wireless security tab to get the password..
If the admin password is not working then,you need to reset the router and you need to configure all the settings again on the router as per the ISP settings...
If you are planning to replace the router then,again you have to configure the router as per the ISP settings..
If your Internet Service Provider is Cable follow this link
If your Internet Service Provider is DSL follow this link

Need to reset the Wireless Router everytime I use it?

Hello all, I read through the messages already on the board but didn't see this problem, so apologies if this has been asked already etc.
Basically, I have a LinkSys Wireless-G Router with Speedboost, and I'm having some right problems getting it going.
Essentially, I get it working, go on the internet, works fine super fast and I have no problems. Then I'll turn off the computer, unplug the router etc (I turn off everything at the mains to save energy). When I want to go back online I plug everything in, turn on the computer and this is where I start having problems.
The computer will think its connected to the router and the internet but when I open up a website it can't access it and I just get the standard error message.
One of my computers uses a Linksys Wireless Adaper with Speedboost and the utility with that says that it has accessed the Access Point but cannot connect to the internet.
Basically I end up fiddling about all the time - I wondered if its because I'd set up WAP security, but everything was on the same setting anyway and when I disabled security it was still the same.
I set up my laptop to use the router wired instead of wirelessly but had the same problem.
I pressed the orange button on the left front side of the router, and it flashed white for abit before going orange again, and suddenly it started working.
I'm not sure what that button is! Does it reset the router or something? I know when I've pressed it before (following a troubleshooting guide from somewhere) and it stayed white, but still had problems with it. Anyway, I'm using it now to write this message so as you can see once I'm connected I don't have a problem!
Essentially - is this a router hardware problem and does it need replacing? I upgraded the firmware but its still the same. The firmware is 1.50.8 or whatever!
Thanks for reading, hope you can help!
Alex

It's a bot of a silly argument really. If you unplug the thing it is likely to loose settings. It is coming up with defaults that will allow you to connect but not reliably.
If you are worried about security, enable one of the many forms of security like WEP and so on. That will keep unfriendly folks from "borrowing" your network. If you read the wattage ratings on the gateway/router, they are tiny. I have never heard of any such device catching anything on fire. There just isn't enough current/voltage to do so. If it overheats, it is obviously defective and you should return it as there is something wrong with it, etc.
Honestly, it can't cost more than a few pennies per day to run. You can, as an extra measure of external security, turn off your DSL or Cable modem when not using it. This will let you share files internally without having open internet access until you want it.
Just suggestions.
SM

Safari isn't recognising any websites at all. It is saying "can't verify certificate or server". I have reset my router, reset the Mac Air and still nothing. If there are updates it also won't let me open the App Store...

I Have tried everything and it still won't let me open anything in Safari. I have reset the Mac and router. It's just not working.

This could be a complicated problem to solve, as there are several possible causes for it.
Back up all data, then take each of the following steps that you haven't already taken. Stop when the problem is resolved.
Step 1
From the menu bar, select
           ▹ System Preferences... ▹ Date & Time
Select the Time Zone tab in the preference pane that opens and check that the time zone matches your location. Then select the Date & Time tab. Check that the data and time shown (including the year) are correct, and correct them if not.
Check the box marked
          Set date and time automatically
if it's not already checked, and select one of the Apple time servers from the menu next to it.
Step 2
Start up in safe mode and log in to the account with the problem.
Note: If FileVault is enabled in OS X 10.9 or earlier, or if a firmware password is set, or if the startup volume is a software RAID, you can’t do this. Ask for further instructions.
Safe mode is much slower to start up and run than normal, with limited graphics performance, and some things won’t work at all, including sound output and Wi-Fi on certain models. The next normal startup may also be somewhat slow.
The login screen appears even if you usually login automatically. You must know your login password in order to log in. If you’ve forgotten the password, you will need to reset it before you begin.
If the problem is not reproducible in safe mode, then it's caused by third-party "anti-virus" or "security" software. If you know what that software is, remove it as directed by the developer after backing up all data. If you don't know what it is, ask for instructions.
Step 3
Triple-click anywhere in the line below on this page to select it:
/System/Library/Keychains/SystemCACertificates.keychain
Right-click or control-click the highlighted line and select
          Services ▹ Show Info
from the contextual menu.* An Info dialog should open. The dialog should show "You can only read" in the Sharing & Permissions section.
Repeat with this line:
/System/Library/Keychains/SystemRootCertificates.keychain
If instead of the Info dialog, you get a message that either file can't be found, reinstall OS X.
*If you don't see the contextual menu item, copy the selected text to the Clipboard by pressing the key combination command-C. Open a TextEdit window and paste into it by pressing command-V. Select the line you just pasted and continue as above.
Step 4
Launch the Keychain Access application in any of the following ways:
☞ Enter the first few letters of its name into a Spotlight search. Select it in the results (it should be at the top.)
☞ In the Finder, select Go ▹ Utilities from the menu bar, or press the key combination shift-command-U. The application is in the folder that opens.
☞ Open LaunchPad and start typing the name.
In the upper left corner of the window, you should see a list headed Keychains. If not, click the button in the lower left corner that looks like a triangle inside a square.
In the Keychains list, there should be items named System and System Roots. If not, select
          File ▹ Add Keychain
from the menu bar and add the following items:
/Library/Keychains/System.keychain
/System/Library/Keychains/SystemRootCertificates.keychain
Open the View menu in the menu bar. If one of the items in the menu is
          Show Expired Certificates
select it. Otherwise it will show
          Hide Expired Certificates
which is what you want.
From the Category list in the lower left corner of the window, select Certificates. Look carefully at the list of certificates in the right side of the window. If any of them has a blue-and-white plus sign or a red "X" in the icon, double-click it. An inspection window will open. Click the disclosure triangle labeled Trust to disclose the trust settings for the certificate. From the menu labeled
          Secure Sockets Layer (SSL)
select
          no value specified
Close the inspection window. You'll be prompted for your administrator password to update the settings.
Now open the same inspection window again, and select
          When using this certificate: Use System Defaults
Save the change in the same way as before.
Revert all the certificates with non-default trust settings. Never again change any of those settings.
Step 5
Select My Certificates from the Category list. From the list of certificates shown, delete any that are marked with a red X as expired or invalid.
Export all remaining certificates, delete them from the keychain, and reimport. For instructions, select
          Help ▹ Keychain Access Help
from the menu bar and search for the term "export" in the help window. Export each certificate as an individual file; don't combine them into one big file.
Step 6
From the menu bar, select
          Keychain Access ▹ Preferences... ▹ Certificates
There are three menus in the window. Change the selection in the top two to Best attempt, and in the bottom one to CRL.
Step 7
Triple-click anywhere in the line of text below on this page to select it:
/var/db/crls
Copy the selected text to the Clipboard by pressing the key combination command-C. In the Finder, select
          Go ▹ Go to Folder...
from the menu bar and paste into the box that opens by pressing command-V. You won't see what you pasted because a line break is included. Press return.
A folder named "crls" should open. Move all the files in that folder to the Trash. You’ll be prompted for your administrator login password.
Restart the computer, empty the Trash, and test.
Step 8
Triple-click anywhere in the line below on this page to select it:
open -e /etc/hosts
Copy the selected text to the Clipboard by pressing the key combination command-C.
Launch the built-in Terminal application in the same way you launched Keychain Access.
Paste into the Terminal window by pressing command-V. I've tested these instructions only with the Safari web browser. If you use another browser, you may have to press the return key after pasting. A TextEdit window should open. At the top of the window, you should see this:
# Host Database
# localhost is used to configure the loopback interface
# when the system is booting. Do not change this entry.
127.0.0.1                              localhost
255.255.255.255          broadcasthost
::1                                        localhost
If that's not what you see, post the contents of the window.

I want a new and more powerful (non-Apple) wireless router but I still want to use my existing Time Capsule to continue with my Time Machine backups and I still need the Time Capsule's Network Attached Storage (NAS) features and capabilities

THE SHORTER STORY
My goal is to successfully use my existing Time Capsule (TC) with a new and more powerful wireless router. I need a new and more powerful wireless router in order to reach a distant Denon a/v receiver that is physically located in a master bedroom some 50 feet away from my modem. I need to provide this Denon a/v receiver with an Internet connection so that it can obtain its firmware updates and I need to connect this Denon a/v receiver to my network in order to use its AirPlay feature. I believe l still need the TC's Network Attached Storage (NAS) features because I am not sure if the new wireless router will provide me with the NAS like features / capabilities I need to share files between my two Apple laptops with OS X 10.8.2. And I know that I absolutely need my TC's seamless integration with Apple's Time Machine (TM) application in order to continue to make effortless backups of my two Apple laptops. To my knowledge nothing works with TM like Apple's TC. I also need the hard disk storage space built into the TC.
I cannot use a long wired Ethernet cable connection in this apartment and I cannot use power-line adapters. I have read that wireless range extenders and repeaters are difficult to successfully set-up and that they will reduce data speeds, especially so when incorrectly set-up. I cannot relocate my modem and/or primary base station wireless router.
In short, I want to use my TC with my new and more powerful wireless router. I need to stop using the TC to connect to the modem. However, I still need the TC for seamless TM backups. I also need to use the TC's built in hard drive for storage. And I may still need the TC's NAS capabilities to share files wirelessly between laptops because I am assuming the new wireless router will not provide NAS capabilities for OS X 10.8.2 (products like this/non-Apple products rarely seem to work with OS X 10.8.2/Macs to provide NAS features and capabilities). Finally, I want to continue to use my Apple laptop and AirPlay to wirelessly access and play my iTunes music collection stored on the TC's hard drive. I also want to continue to use my Apple laptop, AirPlay and Apple TV to wirelessly watch movies and TV shows stored on the additional external hard drive connected to the TC via USB. Can someone please advise on how to set-up my new Asus wireless router with my existing TC in such a way to accomplish all of this?
What is the best configuration or set-up to accomplish my above goals?
Thank you in advance for your assistance!!!
THE FULL STORY
I live in an apartment building where my existing Time Capsule (TC) is located in my living room and serves many purposes. Specially, my TC is at least all of the following:
(1) Wi-Fi router connected to Comcast Internet service via Motorola SB6121 cable modem - currently the TC is the Wi-Fi base station that connects to the modem and has the gateway address to the Internet. The TC now provides the DHCP service for the Wi-Fi network.
(2) Wireless router providing Internet and Wi-Fi network access to several Wi-Fi clients - two Apple laptop computers, an iPod touch, an iPad and an iPhone all connect wirelessly to the Internet via the TC.
(3) Wired Ethernet router providing Internet and Wi-Fi network access to three different devices - a Panasonic TV, LG Blu-Ray player and an Apple TV each use one of the three LAN ports on the back of the TC to gain access to the Internet.
(4) Primary base station in my attempt to extend my wireless network to a distant (located far away) Denon a/v receiver requiring a wired Ethernet connection - In addition to the TC, which is my primary base station, I am also using a second extended Wi-Fi base station (a Netgear branded product) to wirelessly extend my WiFi network to a Denon receiver located in the master bedroom and requiring a wired Ethernet connection. I cannot use a wired Ethernet connection to continuously travel from the living room to the master bedroom. The distance is too great as I cannot effectively hide the Ethernet cable in this apartment.
(5) Time Machine (TM) backup facilitator - I use my TC to wirelessly back-up two Apple laptops using Apple's Time Machine (TM) application. However, I ran out of storage space on my TC and therefore added external storage to it. Specifically, I added an external hard drive to my TC via the USB port on the back of the TC. I now use this added external hard drive connected to the TC via USB as the destination storage drive for my TM back-ups. I have partitioned the added external hard drive, and each of the several partitions all have enough storage space (e.g., each of the two partitions used by TM are sized at three times the hard drive space of each laptop, etc.). Everything works flawlessly.
(6) Network Attached Storage (NAS) - In addition to using the TC's Network Attached Storage (NAS) capabilities to wirelessly back-up two Apple laptops via TM, I also store other additional files on both (A) the hard drive built into the TC and (B) the additional external hard drive connected to the TC via USB (there are additional separate partitions on this drive for these other additional and non-TM backup files).
I use the TC's NAS feature with my Apple laptop and AirPlay to wirelessly access and play my iTunes music collection stored on the TC's hard drive. I also use my Apple laptop, AirPlay and Apple TV to wirelessly watch movies and TV shows stored on the additional external hard drive connected to the TC via USB. Again, everything works wirelessly and flawlessly. (Note: the Apple TV is connected to the network via Ethernet and a LAN port on the back of the TC).
The issue I am having is when I try to listen to music via Apple's AirPlay in the master bedroom. This master bedroom is located at a distance of two rooms away from the TC's current location in the living room, which is a distance of about 50 feet. This apartment has a long rectangular floor plan where each room is connected to the next in a straight line. In order to use AirPlay in the master bedroom I am using a second extended Wi-Fi base station (a Netgear branded product) to wirelessly extend my WiFi network to a Denon receiver located in the master bedroom and requiring a wired Ethernet connection. This additional base station connects wirelessly to the WiFi network provided by my TC and then gives my Denon receiver the wired Ethernet connection it needs to use AirPlay. I have tried moving my iTunes music directly onto my laptop's hard drive, and then I used AirPlay on this same laptop to connect to the Denon receiver. I always get a successful connection and the song plays, but the problem is that the connection inevitably drops.
I live in an apartment building and all of the many wireless routers in this building create a great deal of WiFi interference on both the 2.4 GHz and 5GHz bands. I have tried connecting the Netgear product to each the 2.4 and 5 GHz bands, but neither band can successfully maintain a wireless connection between the TC and the Netgear product. I also attempted to maintain a wireless connection to an iPod touch using the 2.4 GHz band and AirPlay on this iPod touch to play music on the Denon receiver. Again, I was able to establish a connection and successfully play music, but after a few minutes the connection dropped and the music stopped playing. I therefore have concluded that I have a poor wireless connection in the master bedroom. I can establish a connection, but it is intermittent with frequent drops. I have verified this with both laptops by working in the master bedroom for an entire day on both laptops. The Internet connection in this master bedroom proved to drop out frequently - about once an hour with the laptops. The wireless connection and the frequency of its dropout are far worse with the iPod touch and an iPhone.
I cannot relocate the TC. Also, this is an apartment and I therefore cannot extend the range of my network with Ethernet cable (I cannot drill through walls/ceilings, etc.). It is an old building with antiquated wiring and power-line adapters are not likely to function properly, nor can I spare the direct power outlet required with a power-line adapter. I simply need every outlet I can get and cannot afford to block any direct outlet.
My solution is to use a more powerful wireless router. I found the ASUS RT-AC66U Dual-Band Wireless-AC1750 Gigabit Router which will likely provide a better connection to my wireless Internet in the master bedroom than the TC. The 802.11ac band of this Asus wireless router is totally useless to me, but based on what I have read I believe this router will provide a stronger connection at greater distances then my TC. And I will be ready for 802.11ac when it becomes more widely available.
However, I still need to maintain the TC's ability to work seamlessly with TM to backup my two laptops. Also, I doubt the new Asus router will provide OS X 10.8.2 with NAS like features and capabilities. Therefore, I still would like to use the TC's NAS capabilities to share files on my network wirelessly assuming the Asus wireless router fails to provide this feature. I need a new and more powerful wireless router, but I need to maintain the TC's NAS features and seamless integration with TM. Finally, I want to continue to use my Apple laptop and AirPlay to wirelessly access and play my iTunes music collection stored on the TC's hard drive. I also want to continue to use my Apple laptop, AirPlay and Apple TV to wirelessly watch movies and TV shows stored on the additional external hard drive connected to the TC via USB. Can someone advise on how to set-up my existing TC with this new Asus wireless router in such a way to accomplish all of this?
Modem
Motorola SB6121 SURFboard DOCSIS 3.0 Cable Modem
Existing Wireless Router and Primary Wi-Fi Base Station - Apple Time Capsule
Apple Time Capsule MC343LL/A 1TB Sim DualBand (purchased June 2010, likely the Winter 2009 Model)
Desired New Wireless Router and Primary Wi-Fi Base Station - Non-Apple Asus
ASUS RT-AC66U Dual-Band Wireless-AC1750 Gigabit Router
Extended Wi-Fi Base Station - Provides an Ethernet Connection to a Denon A/V Receiver Two Rooms Away from the Modem
Netgear Universal Dual Band Wireless Internet Adapter for TV & Blu-Ray (WNCE3001)
Addition External Hard Drive Attached to the Existing Apple Time Capsule via USB
WD My Book Studio 4TB Mac External Hard Drive Storage USB 3.0
Existing Laptops on the Wireless Network Requiring Time Machine Backups
MacBook Air (11-inch, Mid 2012) OS X 10.8.2
MacBook Pro (13-inch Mid 2010) OS X 10.8.2
Other Existing Apple Products (Clients) on the Wireless Network
iPod Touch (second generation) is model A1288.
iPad (1st generation)
Apple TV (3rd generation) - Quantity two (2)

Thanks Bob Timmons.
In regards to a Plan B, I hear ya brother. I am already on what feels like Plan Z. Getting WiFi to a far off room in an apartment building crowded with WiFi routers is a major pain.
I am basing my thoughts on the potential of a new and more powerful router reaching the far off master bedroom based on positive reviews on cnet.com, pcmag.com and pcworld.com. All 3 of these web sites have reviewed the Asus RT-AC66U 802.11AC wireless router as well as its virtual twin cousin 802.11n router. What impressed me is that all 3 sites rated this router #1 overall in terms of both range and speed (in both the 802.11n and 802.11AC flavors). They tested the router in real world scenarios where the router needed to compete with a lot of other wireless routers. One of the sites even buried this Asus router in a media room with thick walls and inside a media cabinet. This Asus router should be able to serve my 2.4 GHz band wireless clients (iPod Touch and iPhone 4) with a 2.4GHz Wireless-N band offering some 50 feet of dependable range and a 60 Mbps throughput at that range. I am hoping that works, but it's borderline for my master bedroom. My 5 GHz wireless clients (laptops) will enjoy a 5GHz Wireless-N band offering 150 feet of range and a 200 Mbps throughput at that range. I have no idea what most of that stuff means, but I did also read that Asus could reach 300 feet and I got really excited. My mileage may vary of course and I'm sure I'm making some mistakes in my interpretation of their data. However, my Winter 2009 Time Capsule was rated by cnet.com to deliver real world performance of less than that, and 802.11AC may or may not be useful to me someday. But when this Asus arrives and provides anything other than an excellent and consistent wireless signal without drops in the master bedroom it's going right back!
Your solution sounds great, but I have some questions. I'm using OS X 10.8.2 and Airport Utility (version 6.1 610.31) and on its third tab labeled "Wireless" the top option enables you to set "Network Mode" to either:
Create a wireless network
Extend a wireless network
Off
Given your advice to "Turn off the wireless on the TC," should I set Network Mode to Off? Sorry, I'm clueless in regards to how to turn off the wireless on the TC any other way. Can you provide specific steps on how to turn off the wireless on the TC? If what I wrote is correct then what should the rest of this Wireless tab look like, or perhaps it is irrelevant when wireless is off?
Next, what do you mean by "Configure the TC in Bridge Mode?" Under Airports Utility's fourth tab labeled "Network" the top option "Router Mode" allows for either:
DHCP and Nat
DHCP Only
Off (Bridge Mode)
Is your advice to Configure the TC in Bridge Mode as simple as setting Router Mode to Off (Bridge Mode)? If yes, then what should the rest of this "Network" tab look like? Anything else involved in configuring the TC in Bridge Mode or is it really as simple as setting the Router Mode to "Off (Bridge Mode)"?
How about the other tabs in Airport Utility, can they all stay as is assuming I use the same network name and password for the new Asus wireless router? Or do I need to make any other changes to the TC via Airport Utility?
Finally, in regards to your Plan B suggestion. I agree. But do you have a Plan B for me? I would greatly appreciate any alternative you could provide. Specifically, if you needed a TC's Internet connection to reach a far off corner of your home how would you do it? In the master bedroom I need both a wired Ethernet connection for the Denon a/v receiver and wireless Internet connection for the iPhone and iPod Touch.
Power-Line Adapters - High Cost, Blocks at Least One Wall Outlet and Does Not Solve the Wireless Need
I actually like exactly one power-line adapter, which is the D-Link DHP-540 PowerLine AV 500 4-Port Gigabit Switch. This D-Link power-line adapter plugs into your wall outlet with a normal sized plug (regular standard power cord much like any other electronic device) instead of all of the other recommended power-line adapters that not only use at least one wall outlet but also often block the second outlet. You cannot use a power strip with a power-line adapter which is very impractical for me. And everything about my home is strange and upside down. The wiring here is a disaster and I don't have faith in its ability to carry Internet access from the living room to the master bedroom. And this D-Link power-line adapter costs $90 each and I need at least two to make the connection to the Denon A/V receiver. So, $180 on this solution and I still don't have a dependable drop free wireless connection in the master bedroom. The Denon might get its Ethernet Internet connection from the power-line adapter, but if I want to use an iPhone 4 or iPod Touch to stream AirPlay music to the Denon wirelessly (Pandora/iTunes, etc.) from the master bedroom the wireless connection will not be stable in there and I've already spent $190 on just the two power-line adapters needed.
Extenders / Repeaters / Wirelessly Extending the Wireless Network
I have also read great things about the Amped Wireless High Power Wireless-N 600mW Gigabit Dual Band Range Extender (Repeater) SR20000G and the My Net Wi-Fi Range Extender. The former is very powerful and the latter is easier to install. Both cost about $150 ish so similar to a new Asus router. However, everything I read about Range Extenders points to them not being very effective for a far off corner of your house wherein it's apparently hard to place the range extender in the sweet spot where it both gets a strong enough signal to actually effectively extend the wireless signal and otherwise does not reduce network throughput speeds to unacceptable speeds.
Creating a Roaming Network By Hard Wiring with Ethernet Cable - Wife Would Say, "**** No!"
Even Apple seems to warn against wirelessly extending your network (see: http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4145#) and otherwise strongly recommends a roaming network where Ethernet cable is used to connect two wireless base stations. However, I am in an apartment where stringing together two wireless base stations with Ethernet cable would have an extremely low wife acceptance factor (WAF). I cannot (both contractually and from a skill prospective) hide Ethernet wire in the walls or ceiling. And having visible Ethernet cable running from room-to-room would be unacceptable, especially to the wife.
So what is left? Do you have a Plan B for me? Thanks in advance for your help!

My phone has been losing calls and according to the apple store i need to reset it due to a software fault - i have done this and still have the same problems. how do i reset the phone without reinstalling the soft ware fault by way of icloud backup

my phone has been losing calls and according to the apple store i need to reset it due to a software fault - i have done this and still have the same problems. how do i reset the phone without reinstalling the soft ware fault by way of icloud backup

Well, it appears that your backup is corrupt, thus causing your issue. So, you'll have to restore as a new device, & not from backup. Follow this by syncing your content back to your phone:
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1414
Do not restore from backup.

Do i still need to use my wireless router with Time Capusle?

I thought that by buying a new Time Capsule (TC) for data storage and as my sole wireless hub (saving on plugs and space) i no longer need my old wireless router?
However, it will only work via my old router?
Tried putting my old ethernet cable into the TC (which is in fact slightly smaller than a traditional computer ethernet cable?) , which then routes to an ADSL filter and then my BT phone socket. However, my computer reads the wireless network but the TC tells me that my ethernet cable isn't plugged in properly?
In contrast, when i connect my old router, via a traditional ethernet cable, to the TC it works fine?
Please tell me i don't need both?
Best
D

It sounds like you have an ADSL Internet connection provided by BT. Unfortunately, the TC does not have a built-in ADSL modem and it will still require one for Internet access. You would then connect the TC by Ethernet to this modem.

Just ordered new iMac do I still need a modem/router for Internet access

Just converted to apple,ordered a new IMAC but little confused on Internet access.
does the extreme still need a modem/router,just a little confused after reading all the comments about poor connections etc.
Old windows soldier sorry if a little vague .

The AirPort Extreme is a router, but it is not a modem. You still need your existing cable or DSL modem. That device is usually supplied by your ISP and may or may not include the functions of a router.

My old Apple ID is still showing when i need to reset my security questions. And i am not able to buy on music on iTunes. someone help?!

My old Apple ID is still showing when i need to reset my security questions. And i am not able to buy music on iTunes. someone help?!

All apps, all paid and free apps include DRM protection which is tied to the iTunes account/Apple ID that was used to download the apps. You will need to use the Apple ID that was used to download the apps to install app updates.
Apps downloaded with one Apple ID can't be transferred to another ID and accounts can't be merged.

I am still getting redirected to various web sites when using Safari. My PC is not affected but my I phone and I pad are. I have reset my router and changed my admin name and password. I am still being redirected.

I am still getting redirected to various web sites when using Safari. My PC is not affected but my I phone and I pad are. I have reset my router and changed my admin name and password. I am still being redirected.

Chances are you mis-typed a character in the Wifi password and the devices saved that information. Now whenever you try to connect the device refers to the wrong password and the Jetpack does not accept your connection. Tell your devices to forget the wireless connection and start over.
Once you enter the proper WiFi credentials the Jetpack will allow you to connect.

Do I still need to reset my router?

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