Do the "whine free" sacrfice their right to battery life?

Hi all,
A simple thought/question just occurred to me...
Do the MBPs that are supposedly "without whine" still get 3+ hours of battery life? At a basic level, I'm wondering if the non-whiners just never let the processor idle.
I typically get a little over 3 hours when I let mine whine, and about 2:40 or less when I use the mirror widget.

my MBP 17 has zero whine, and the battery life is >3 hrs for light work as expected. i.e. the correlation you're thinking about is most likely anecdotal...
i'm just providing a single data point of course - others will post if they disagree...
cheers

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<Edited by Host>

Why doesnt the iPhone keep a few percent of battery life up it's sleeve to allow the alarm to go off?

Fifteen years ago, and for ten years running, spanning Nokia, Samsung, Motorola, Ericsson and a couple of cheapies, I had the ability to set an alarm and it would wake me in the morning. Even if my phone went flat! I know none of these devices had the same drain as an iPhone, but surely the clever people at apple could design some code that will "kill" the phone at 5% battery so it's got enough charge for the alarm to function.
Knowing some people would prefer that the phone doesn't shut down at 5%, a setting could be applied in an "alarm clock " section of the "settings" app, or it could be applied only when an alarm is active.
I just don't think that an iPhone should lack functionality that was available to be on a Nokia 5110 ;-)

Submit your feedback requesting this feature directly to Apple using the appropriate link on the Feedback page:
http://www.apple.com/feedback
In the meantime, if you plug the iPhone in at night, you shouldn't have a problem.

The internet is not working and poor battery life

Hi everyone!
When I try to connect my Ipod touch(5g) to the WiFi, it will show me the signal I'm getting but won't let me use the internet. The only way out "to fix" this software failure is to reset my Ipod. When I do this I can keep using Safari and apps. However, I'm tired of doing this in order to get the Internet back, because suddenly the Internet goes down again. Besides, I've realized that the battery's life dramatically runs out when the WiFi is on. I hoped that the issue would be solved with the newest version of IOS, but unfortunately not occurred that way. At the same time, my Ipad 2 IOS 6 has the same settings than my Ipod touch (5g) and works smoothly. I'm really dissapointed with the performance of this device. I was really excited to get one. Any suggestions?
Thanks in Advance.

Did you already try to set it up as new device without using the latest backup, in case it contains damaged files?
How to back up your data and set up as a new device
Did you check your router settings?
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If it does not work after that, get it serviced or looked at by Apple:
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Does anyone else think that the new update 5.1.1 drains battery life faster than 5.1?

I charged my phone to 100% last night and unpluged it last night before going to bed. 10 hours later, when I got up, my battery had went down all the way to 68% and with no apps running in the background... All while my iPhone's currently running on IOS 5.1.1. I never had this problem with IOS 5.1, when the battery would only drop to around 97% overnight.
Anyone else having this problem?

With Phone, Messages, and Setting apps active and
Celllular data enabled, my AT&T 64 gig, 4S drops about 4-5%
overnight. Which is about what it was with 5.1.
So, I personally have seen no change in battery performance
and when using the phone I haven't seen any difference either.

The Whine of Intel Core Duo (mobile) (& its users) in Laptops of all brands

Can I start by saying - OH NO, NOT ANOTHER WHINE THREAD.
But I had a search and this issue doesn't seem to be covered that much yet, and I feel it's important for us blighted by the whine to work out what to do about it. Apple has told me (and a lot of you) many different answers, "We recognise this issue and we're trying to fix it", "They've all got it! Stop complaining", "It's within spec, they're MEANT to do that", "Faster processor architectures generate more noise, there's nothing we can do", "You're mad.. there's no noise."
I think we can take these points as givens:
• There are three noises commonly reported; moo (HDD-fixable) / buzz (Inverter-fixable) / whine (CPU-mysterious). We're dealing with whine here.
• Not all MBPs are created equal, some whine, some don't.
• AppleTech will feed you a line to get you to go away. Don't give up.
• A whine is NOT within spec at these prices. (check consumer rights)
• The whine is made by hardware vibration of some sort, this can be affected by software, but the software does not generate it (ie. it doesn't come out of the speakers).
• When running XP, for 99% of people the whine disappears.
• The whine seems to be related to battery power as well. Most people experience a louder whine when using (or charging) the battery.
So in a roundabout way I come to this - Does anyone know of other laptops using Intel Core Duos and causing a whine noise? In my opinion this is unlikely as the whine disappears in XP, but it would be good to know if it is happening anywhere else. If you know of any other 'whiners', please post a link to where you found out about it and the name of the model doing it.
If other models do it, it would seem to indicate defective processors (which lends credence to Apple's "it's a problem with newer, faster processors" line), and it ain't really Apple's fault - but they'll still need fixed. If Apples only do it, then we should all shout at Apple for lying to us until we get ours fixed/replaced.
My laptop is being picked up in two days to be 'repaired' so we'll see what happens then. According to AppleTech I'll get a report on any repairs done to it, so I'll post again with what repairs were carried out and what effect they had when it comes back.
MacBook Pro 1.83GHz Mac OS X (10.4.5) 1.5GB RAM, 80GB

Hey LanEvoVIII... (Have you ever heard one of the defective MBPs in real life? If you feel the need to reply to this post, answer that question, although it would be infinitely preferable if you just removed yourself.)
Technology is not perfect, I know that. But for the amount of money you pay for Apple technology it should be better than this. And perhaps I wouldn't have bought a computer if I'd known that it makes noises like this.. unfortunately not mentioned anywhere by Apple, only on these forums where you-who-knows-best says we shouldn't talk about it.
Also you numpty, the point of all of this is we're trying to use the return policies and hardware warranties and gettin the runaround by Apple. This is another reason why people are unhappy - not so much the problem, more the fact about it's resolution (or lack of).
So how's about this? shut yer face. I'm aware of the irony of whining about a whine. You're so smart and funny referencing the same lil joke I made at the beginning of the post. What a smart smart human you are. Go on, give yourself a wee pat on the back for being so good and understanding the nature of technology so well. Go on, do it. There, doesn't that feel nice? Now go take your smug sense of self-satisfaction to some other thread and let us try and sort this out so that it doesn't drag on any longer.
Natsus, well said, sorry but I couldn't keep such a nice calm head about it as you. I know things are better if we all stay civil to each other. After so much trouble with this issue I ain't got much patience left, especially for people like "LanEvoVIII".
MacBook Pro 1.83GHz Mac OS X (10.4.5) 1.5GB RAM, 80GB

The whine issue and its dissappearance

so maybe someone can answer this for me. ive read all the forums and am familiar with all the issues. i have a week 13 build 1.83 mbp. it has the whine that goes away with photobooth or the noisekiller. when i boot to xp via bootcamp there is no whine whatsoever. *** is up with this.

Yes.
There was a bug in the Windows XP implementation that lead to this. Microsoft has acknowledged and patched this and users who have done so report that MacBooks now whine under XP with this patch. On the other hand, battery life is now marginally better than it was under XP (previously users were reporting that they experienced about 15 minutes less battery life under Windows than under OS X). I'm not sure what the current state of play is.
So, for those who think that Microsoft has more experience with power management on Intel processors, the real world experience says otherwise. Battery life seems to be longer under OS X.

IPhone 4S Battery Life: Best solutions and procedures for 1st time user: 1-Do you have a battery life issue (learn first what the usage time spec is about) 2-What can you try to remedy the situation without reading 500 pages of posts

What follows is a grouping of some of the most fruitful procedures - from what I've seen in the biggest battery life issue thread - and some background information and discussion for solving or improving the battery life with the iPhone 4S and may be applicable also to devices on which iOS 5.0/5.0.1 has been applied. Credit goes to the respective users who contributed this information to the forum and they should be commended for doing so. This is not a final listing. The goal here is to provide a first stop sort of knowledge base document for newcomers instead of having them perusing the never ending threads where the wheel is reinvented on every page...
Please don't post your questions, usage screenshots, or claims that it worked or not for you or anything here except PROCEDURES/DEBUG STEPS/SOLUTIONS or improvements to the procedures already listed here. Try to use point form and to be as concise and clear as possible. Hope all this helps.
Thank you and good luck!
General info and specs
First, take a look Apple's battery tips, info and specs(obligatory reading for all Iphone 4S users - read it once and for all):
http://www.apple.com/batteries/iphone.html
http://www.apple.com/batteries/
... you didn't read it? loll Always remember this i.e. the definition of "usage":
Usage: Amount of time iPhone has been awake and in use since the last full charge. The phone is awake when you’re on a call, using email, listening to music, browsing the web, or sending and receiving text messages, or during certain background tasks such as auto-checking email.
I'm still not convinced you read the links so here's what Apple has to say in terms of fine tuning your battery life:
Optimize your settings
Depending on how they are configured, a few features may decrease your iPhone battery life. For example, the frequency with which you retrieve email and the number of email accounts you auto-check can both affect battery life. The tips below apply to an iPhone running iOS 5.0 or later and may help extend your battery life.
Minimize use of location services: Applications that actively use location services such as Maps may reduce battery life. To disable location services, go to Settings > General > Location Services or use location services only when needed.
Turn off push notifications: Some applications from the App Store use the Apple Push Notification service to alert you of new data. Applications that extensively rely on push notifications (such as instant messaging applications) may impact battery life. To disable push notifications, go to Settings > Notifications and set Notifications to Off. Note that this does not prevent new data from being received when the application is opened. Also, the Notifications setting will not be visible if you do not have any applications installed that support push notifications.
Fetch new data less frequently: Applications such as Mail can be set to fetch data wirelessly at specific intervals. The more frequently email or other data is fetched, the quicker your battery may drain. To fetch new data manually, from the Home screen choose Settings > Mail, Contacts, Calendars > Fetch New Data and tap Manually. To increase the fetch interval, go to Settings > Mail, Contacts, Calendars > Fetch New Data and tap Hourly. Note that this is a global setting and applies to all applications that do not support push services.
Turn off push mail: If you have a push mail account such as Yahoo! or Microsoft Exchange, turn off push when you don’t need it. Go to Settings > Mail, Contacts, Calendars > Fetch New Data and set Push to Off. Messages sent to your push email accounts will now be received on your phone based on the global Fetch setting rather than as they arrive.
Auto-check fewer email accounts: You can save power by checking fewer email accounts. This can be accomplished by turning off an email account or by deleting it. To turn off an account, go to Settings > Mail, Contacts, Calendars, choose an email account, and set Account to Off. To remove an account, go to Settings > Mail, Contacts, Calendars, choose an email account, and tap Delete Account.
Turn off Wi-Fi: If you rarely use Wi-Fi, you can turn it off to save power. Go to Settings > Wi-Fi and set Wi-Fi to Off. Note that if you frequently use your iPhone to browse the web, battery life may be improved by using Wi-Fi instead of cellular data networks.
Turn off Bluetooth: If you rarely use a Bluetooth headset or car kit, you can turn off Bluetooth to save power. Go to Settings > General > Bluetooth and set Bluetooth to Off.
Use Airplane Mode in low- or no-coverage areas: Because your iPhone always tries to maintain a connection with the cellular network, it may use more power in low- or no-coverage areas. Turning on Airplane Mode can increase battery life in these situations; however, you will be unable to make or receive calls. To turn on Airplane Mode, go to Settings and set Airplane Mode to On.
Adjust brightness: Dimming the screen is another way to extend battery life. Go to Settings > Brightness and drag the slider to the left to lower the default screen brightness. In addition, turning on Auto-Brightness allows the screen to adjust its brightness based on current lighting conditions. Go to Settings > Brightness and set Auto-Brightness to On.
Turn off EQ: Applying an equalizer setting to song playback on your iPhone can decrease battery life. To turn EQ off, go to Settings > iPod > EQ and tap Off. Note that if you’ve added EQ to songs directly in iTunes, you’ll need to set EQ on iPhone to Flat in order to have the same effect as Off because iPhone keeps your iTunes settings intact. Go to Settings > iPod > EQ and tap Flat.
Usage specs for the 4S - http://www.apple.com/iphone/specs.html:
Talk time: Up to 8 hours (12.5% per hour drain) on 3G, up to 14 hours (7.1% per hour drain) on 2G (GSM)
Standby time: Up to 200 hours (0.5% per hour drain)
Internet use: Up to 6 hours on 3G (16.6% per hour drain), up to 9 hours (11.1% per hour drain) on Wi-Fi
Video playback: Up to 10 hours (10% per hour drain)
Audio playback: Up to 40 hours (2.5% per hour drain)
So a scenario of normal usage could be for example: 4 heavy hours of 3G internet browsing (66.4%), with one hour of call on 3G (12.5%) and 22 hours of standby (11%) = 100%
A battery life issue is a problem where the drain is really out of spec either during usage or standby or both. For example, multi-% per minute drain during usage or a 10% drain per hour during standby is problematic. Browsing the internet on 3G during one hour and losing 16-17% is not.
Apple's test methodology for claiming the specs:
http://www.apple.com/iphone/battery.html
Procedures
davidch tips (reset+full discharge recharge):
Go through these steps to address the battery after updating to iOS 5.0.1:
1. Reset all settings (settings app-> general-> reset)
2. Go through initial setup steps (lang, wifi, siri, enable location, etc) and choose setup as new phone (don't worry your apps, data, contacts, mail will still be there). Do NOT restore from iCloud or iTunes (It can copy back corrupt settings)
3. Turn off system location services timezone and iAd
4. Fully discharge battery (tilll it shuts off with the spinning wheel)
5. Fully recharge battery (overnight if possible)
In my experience this improves the Standby battery drain issue significantly in most cases. It reduces drain from 2-4% or more per hr to 0.5% or less. It has worked for many, many users now. If it does not work after a few try's you may have a real battery or hardware issue and should contact Apple. Good Luck!
ram130's variant of davidch i.e. additional steps:
Now using davidch original steps and attaching the tweaks I made to get me more usage. As shown on page 29.
Go through these steps to address the battery after updating to iOS 5.0.1:
1. Reset all settings (settings app-> general-> reset)
2. Go through initial setup steps (lang, wifi, siri, enable location, etc) and choose setup as new phone (don't worry your apps, data, contacts, mail will still be there). Do NOT restore from iCloud or iTunes (It can copy back corrupt settings)
3. Turn off system location services timezone and iAd
4. Fully discharge battery (till it shuts off with the spinning wheel)
5. Fully recharge battery (overnight if possible)
6. Disable Siri 'Raise To Speak' and REBOOT *( if possible use another camera to verify the                 infrared is off after the reboot).
7. Set emails, icloud and calendars to fetch. ** test. Mines on hourly.
8. If your in a no signal and your phone is saying "Searching..." even after 10mins, reboot while in that area and after 1-2min it should say "No Service". This mainly applies to Verizon customers and improve battery life in these areas.
9. *optional* Goto Settings > General > Network and you will see "Hotspot.." loading something, wait a few seconds and it should say "setup personal hotspot" then exit out.
* I notice a great improvement after disabling this and rebooting. This increased my "screen on" usage or at least helped it. Make the change.
** I have not tested push yet to narrow down the drain but I had this change on my phone. I believe exchange push is responsible for some stand by drain. As for icloud, haven't notice much of a difference. Just try it for a day. My email still came in fast most times. Again still testing, will report back on these..
buxbuster tips(wifi sync, iCloud):
These are my own tested workarounds that worked for my iPhone 4S and seemed to have worked for others as well :
Workaround number 1. Deselect wifi-sync in iTunes and press sync.
If that doesn't work try :
Workaround number 2 : Remove iCloud, reset network settings. ( I guess this won't work for you since you don't have it enabled ).
If both workarounds fail, you can always try to completely wipe your phone. That also solved some of the cases out there.
rolandomerida tips - i.e. buxbuster and additional steps:
Finally, I solved the syncing error loop. My contacts are syncing flawessly again between my devices and iCloud, and yes, the battery stopped draining, which is the main topic here.
I followed instructions from buxbuster (check his workaround a few pages up!) and an additional BIG step to restore contacts and syncing, as seen in a MacRumors forum.
This is what I did:
1. Make a backup of your Address Book, using the vCard option (or both, it doesn't hurt). Save it for later.
2. In your iPhone, delete iCloud account. When it asks, accept both: delete AND delete from my iPhone.
3. Reset network settings. The iPhone will restart, then will ask you to unlock the SIM card.
4.Turn Wi-Fi on.
5. Add the iCloud account again.
That's for Buxbuster's workaround. For some, it might work just like that. My iPhone repopulated from iCloud after step 5, but I still had that "server error" on iCloud. I had to do some extra steps, since my Mac was not syncing to iCloud and couldn't edit anything on my Mac or iCloud. Syncing back had to be fixed, too. If not, the syncing loop would continue from my iPhone, and the battery would drain awfully again.
1. In System Preferences -> iCloud, I turned Contacts off. I chose "keep on My Mac" those contacts, but I got an empty Address Book after a while. And a few minutes later, iCloud contacts were empty and my iPhone also. It is scary at first! Now, before importing that vCard backup...
2. Turn Wi-Fi off. This is important, since your contact-empty iCloud will attempt to wipe your Address Book from your Mac in seconds after importing.
3. Import your vCard backup to Address Book. Just drag it to your blank Address Book window; it asks if you want to import "x" number of cards. Of course, say yes.
4. Turn Wi-Fi on, and then iCloud contacts on again (System Preferences -> iCloud). It will offer to merge your newly populated Address Book with iCloud (which is empty at this point). It should upload every single contact to iCloud, and then to your iDevices. If not, a fifth step would be to import the vCard file to iCloud, but it shouldn't be necessary.
So, with iCloud syncing working correctly, there is no battery draining! Again, that was my particular issue.
I can't tell if this is the single answer to the widely spread battery draining problem, but it sure can be fixed with these workarounds, and yes, Apple should address the problem with a future update, for we affected customers don't need workarounds in the first place
This is the MacRumors discussion:
http://forums.macrumors.com/showthread.php?t=1256807
And dont' forget to check buxbuster's fix, video, and THANK him!
Miless tips (full 800mb release of 5.0.1 and sanitizing a restore):
As for 4S battery life. Try doing this,
1. Settings>Location Service ... disable all location services you do not need. In particularly Facebook because it drains the battery a lot.
Scroll down to the bottom at Settings>Location services>System Services ... Disable Setting Time zone, location based iAds, Diagnostic & Usage.
2. Settings>Notification>Calendar ... turn off the Notification Centre.
3. Settings>General>Reset ... do Reset All Settings. Doing this will not wipe out your iPhone. It will just Reset the network settings, location warning, keyboard dictionary, etc... but it will clear up some corrupted data there. Generally this will help.
Try these 3 steps first... if it still drains a lot, try the following,
4. Drain your battery down to 1%. Then charge it up using USB from PC ... not the charger. The charger output 1.0 A ( x 5V from USB ... you get 5W power). From PC, output is only 0.5A x 5V = 2.5W power. Charging is slower but trickle charge 4S helps the battery retain its charge better. I think it takes about 3-3.5 hours to charge full from USB/PC compared to slightly below 2 hours using iPhone charger.
If after doing the above still could not solve your battery issues (mine with iOS 5.0 was ok up to step 4, but not iOS 5.0.1).... plug you iPhone to a charger (any charger), from iPhone, access your iCloud ... set it up if you havent. Back up your iPhone data to iCloud. if you do not have enough storage (only 5GB is free), go to details and select the apps you need its data backup, choose only those you really need and leave those unnecessary ones out. Back up your camera roll to your PC/Mac manually as it could be too big to backup to iCloud.... once you have it setup, make sure you are on Wifi ... tap backup to iCloud from your iPhone. It will take a while if the file is huge.
Once backup to iCloud is completed, plug your iPhone to PC/Mac and launch iTunes 10.5.1 (make sure you have 10.5.1)
Click Restore. It will automatically initiate a download of iOS 5.0.1 ipsw for iPhone 4S. Wait for the whole process to finish, ie. download, restore software/firmware.
Once its done, do not set up your iPhone from iTunes. Set it up on your iPhone. Go through the selection. When prompted, select restore from iCloud (from your iphone backup earlier). Keep your iphone plugged into iTunes while restoring backup from iCloud. Because while restoring from iClouds, some data will be synced from iTunes if you plug in, e.g. music, video, etc... unless you bought these content from iTunes store. Apps will be downloaded from App Store from the cloud.
Once it's all done restored. Turn off your iPhone,.. and turn it on again.
Now, hopefully your battery wont be draining so fast anymore. Usually it wont after this. But you need to charge your battery at least 4-5 cycles to stabilize the charge on the battery. I dont know why... but battery life seems to get better and better for me after a few charge cycles after all the above work.
Good luck. Let us know if it works for you.
W. Raider tips (Sirii):
Bottom line for me of things that helped battery life are:
1. Turing off Siri and Rebooting the phone by holding the Home button and Top button down, ignoring the slider, until the phone shut down. (turn off Siri, reboot, and check top front of iPhone 4S against a lesser camera like the front-facing camera on an iPad2 - making sure the IR sensor is off)
2. Fully draining the battery, meaning using the phone until it shuts itself off from a drained battery and then recharging it to 100% about 4, maybe 5 times. I charged it both with a Mac and a wall charger.
Hope this is helpful!
Comments
jmm514 remarks (Twitter):
I may have found something. I had Twitter disabled in my notifications, but got a tweet today that popped up on my home screen. Didn't know I had this enabled. At the bottom of the Twitter notification settings is the home scrren toggle. Since disabling this, battery life seems better. Considering there is no setting for frequency of checking for tweets, it appears the phone is continually connecting to wifi to check for new tweets.
tmksnyder comments (notifications, corrupt data in iCloud):
For me, I found my iphone on wifi mysteriously connecting to my mac. I eventually narrowed it down to the Apple Move Trailers app which keeps a file in iCloud. The phone was trying to sync the file with the mac in the background even when the Movie Trailers app was closed (hitting the red x). Based on my macosx logs the iCloud process that was trying to sync was working directly between the phone and the mac without using itunes by connecting to an https address hosted on the phone. It was connecting every 3 minutes and failing (while phone was awake or awake during during a notification). I also found that iCloud control panel on OSX would error if I tried to delete the file. I fixed it by removing the App and doing a hard reset which stopped the sync. I probably could have turned off iCloud document sync in the phone but didn't think of that. My battery life has greatly improved while at home on wifi.    I am now at 28 hrs standby, 2 hrs 20 minutes of usage, and 68% battery. It was ok before where I could get 20-30 hrs standby and 6 -8 hrs usage. My usage today was phone calls, 3g surfing, and music via bluetooth in the car.
I also found even with Itunes iMatch, if I mass updated tages, art work etc, it would hit the phone on wifi even in standby. I was amazed.   Granted if I am not doing updates, Match won't hot the phone so this was a once in awhile event. I could drop my percentage by 5-10% in a matter of minutes when doing updates.   I think a lot of our problems are background processes, associated with iCloud, notification, and apps. More features means more battery.   I think the key thing is to keep track of what has recently been added or changed if battery life gets worse all of a sudden.   It may be an app that was recently installed and if possible you may want to completely remove it and not just quit it.
With twitter, i think it uses push notifications so it doesn't need to be running and actively poll on the phone. For instance , if i quit the mail app, i still will get mail notifications and can swipe the message and load mail. Apple Push Notifications servics maintain the connection to the phone and there are likely pings or connection checks that occur for the service on an os level not an app level. This minimizes the load so there arent a bunch of apps all runing and constantly checking. The notification service , if it is contacted from twitter or another service with data, will check the settings you have registered to the with the apple push service and send the notification to your phone. No matter what, there is a drain with notifications. M hunch is once one application is configured to receive notifications, connection checking occurs betwen the push service and the phone so it knows where it is on the network. If it is implemented correctly, these checks arent frequent if you are still and more frequent as you move. The other drain is for when the noification hits and is processsed. If i get 9 emails over night, my screen just popped up for 20 seconds or so to process each message using battery. I would even think that just go from low power to turning n the screen uses more juice than if the device was already on and i get the message. On nights I get no notifications, I see a 3 or 4 percent drop. On nights with a number of notifications, i have seen up to a 10 percent drop. Besides notifications, wifi sync and icloud will poll on the local network and use up battery if the host computer is on and running itunes or trying to sync a data file that is corrupt (which i had with the apple movie trailers app causing my phone to drain). For me turning off wifi sync and remving a corrupt file in icloud solved my battery issues and I get over 24 hrs of standby with 6 to 9 hrs of use and this is with all the normal location services and push serivices turned on.
See http://developer.apple.com/library/mac/ipad/#documentation/NetworkingInternet/Co nceptual/RemoteNotificationsPG/ApplePushService/ApplePushService.html for more info. I think it has a good overview of how the notifications work.

Well seems like that rumor of iOS 5.0.1 is finally gone the way of the dogs since developers got a beta of 5.1. So as stated earlier in the master discussion-> I suspect if you are filling up this thread with false post or creating a master set of links to various post that are unreliable you are wasting your time. Press is not going to touch the story due to poor or inaccurate sources which may be links from the master thread. This can include inaccurate information, combination of conflicting post or postings from users which may not own the device. Reputable press organizations have policies that require discloser and strict rules about what is a reliable source for a story. It is clear that many of the post in the master thread, which are links presented here are questionable.
Sorry to say that postings taken without any analysis of their totality have been propagated via various sites, for example sites such as http://www.2012federalbudget(dot)com. (Do not visit but I suspect that this is not the 2012 federal-budget site you would expect based on analysis of the records. There are plenty of sites like http://www.2012federalbudget(dot)com propagating questionable post in these threads.) One site for example in the discussion thread used a self signed certificate, the site had a log in to allow users to enter their OpenID. Seems many of these sites are pop and drop drupel configurations.
So remember this is how the really bad rumor of iOS 5.0.2 got started, the 5.1 memory leak issue, iCloud Issues, call quality, address book, etc.
Some of the postings have been very comical, I think the latest now is a dropbox issue. Seems that the length of the previous thread has resulted in various app engines of some proxy servers/tools reaching their limits.
So I would make sure to know the source of any information you link to. Make sure you avoid entering any information to outside links such as OpenID or Apple ID, these are big prize items for anyone with malicious intent. If you have issues and are a valid user contact APPLE CARE. (Note link is using McAfee Secure Short URL Service, and is https.)
http://mcaf.ee/ricdt
The original solution still represents a high level of success for users having any battery issues.
Install 5.0.1 on your iPhone 4s. Some users posting they are still using older versions, bad fake serial numbers, etc.
Make sure your device can run iOS 5.0.1 and is not altered.
Make sure you use a new Sim, not some cut down version which many users admit to doing. (Again, worth confirming what people are posting.)
Reset the device doing a hard reset and software reset.
Let battery drain and then charge for the full cycle, which is 24 hours.
I think you will find you will get the battery usage that APPLE has stated for the device.
Best of luck, stay safe and thanks

The most systematic analysis of Lumia 800 battery ...

Hi, don’t mean to be arrogant, but I’ve read many threads, forums, posts etc. There are tons of info, someone tried a table, etc. but no one has attempted to summarise the relevant parameters. So here goes:
1.     I have a Cyan 800, bought locked at “3” UK, then unlocked. It’s beautiful and makes iApple UI look, well, jurassic or geriatric in comparison. The screen is so beautiful that I switched the thing on just to marvel at the ease of reading the glorious white on black (real black, not grey) and I am smitten by the ascetic aesthetics of the UI that put function over form (I simply can't stomach the saccharine animation of Apple, it is an eye candy for a while, then becomes bothersome, at least to me.
2.     Initially, I noticed that the battery life was not great, but it did not seem disastrous, and I read all the gleeful Apple worshipping media trying to fan the battery issue, but I thought that it was a storm in a tea cup and just the usual attempt to put-down any competition to Apple.
3.     Until a couple of days ago I noticed that I have less than ½ charge after only a few hours off the charger without really doing almost anything.
4.     I panicked, read as much I could the forums, etc. (including probably the most technical – XDA-Forums) but got there only one real advice, the “diagnostics” mode (dial ##634# - I also downloaded an App (called Diagnostics) that does bring you straight to the relevant page without the need to “dial” the ##634#).
5.     I then tried to see what was draining the battery, I stopped 3G connection and “presto”, the drainage stopped and I thought that I resolved the problem (at least for me, there were clearly problems with a certain hardware code, see below).
6.     For one day, the battery was very durable. Even though I had some reasonable With-Fi browsing and calls (GSM, not 3G), there was more than a 1/3rd of the battery left after about 20 hours of the last charge.
7.     Then, today, the morning began very well (in terms of the battery), it was losing less than a few percentage points every hour. I used it for light browsing and a bit of Bluetooth listening. Them my 7-yr old played some X-Box games for a bit, but the battery was way above 2/3rds. I then noticed that the phone was warm even though it was not on. Initially, I thought that it was warm because it was on my body, but then I noticed very fast fall in the battery level. Check:
a.      the 3G again, no it is still off
b.     wi-fi and Bluetooth off
c.      I even checked what Apps were in the background (though I know that it is NOT draining)
d.     - nothing helps, the drainage was high, even when the phone was closed (i.e., not used).
8.     There was nothing I could do, until I shut the phone down completely and switched it on again. Then, the drainage returned to the “good” level, i.e., a few percentage points per hour.
9.     So bottom line, I think that there was something going-on “in the background (that is why the device was warm even when closed) – the problem is that this seems to be intermittent/random and very difficult to put the finger on what causes this problem. I hope that Nokia resolves this problem and not only the “low” battery capacity (see below) that Nokia acknowledged.
So after this long intro, what do I see as the “hard-points” here? The most important parameters for the story seem to be in the following screens:
1.     “Diagnostics” (##634#) “Battery Status” screen;
2.     “Settings”/”Systems”/”about” screen, have to press the “more information” button;
3.     “Settings”/”Systems”/”battery saver” screen;
4.     The battery icon and its remaining capacity representation on the main screen.
The “Diagnostics” (##634#) “Battery Status” screen:
It seems to contain the following info:
·       “Charged” – seems to display ALWAYS the figure “65535%”;
·       “Voltage” – seems to show figures of between 3.700 V (i.e., volts) to 4.1 or 4.2 volts
·       “Current”, followed by “charging” or “discharging” and the current, usually between 130 mA (i.e., milliamp) and 500 mA.
·       “Full Charge Capacity” – showing different figures for different people, usually between slightly above 900 mAh (i.e., milli-Amper-hours) and slightly above 1,500 mAh. Although in this should logically be a fixed-for-ever, or at least in the short term level, the figure seems to fluctuate slightly, see below for more detail.
·       “Remaining Charge Capacity” – clearly the most important parameter, showing the remaining mAh in the battery. Although in theory, the level immediately after long charge should be equal or very near the “Full Charge Capacity”, in practice, it almost never is (remember, I take this not only from my case, but also from numerous reports that I got from the various forums), see below for more detail.
The “Settings”/”Systems”/”about” screen, the relevant info items:
·       OS version – it seems that the latest one (as of late dec 2011) should include “7740” in it. apparently, Nokia promised some respite from the battery bugs in this “7740” update, but from what I read in the forums, there was absolutely no difference.
·       Firmware revision number – interestingly, the firmware revision number includes “7720”, though I am not sure what it means.
·       Hardware revision number – this ends up with “xxx.3” or “xxx.4” – as below, I wonder if this is a different OEM factories designation, but it seems to me that it is the “xxx.4” that has one type of problem (low “Full Charge Capacity” of under 1,000 mAh).
The “Settings”/”Systems”/”battery saver” screen – what is relevant for us is under the “battery information” – you must unplug the phone from charger to see three lines:
·       “Remaining battery life”: supposed to be between 0 and 100% of course (though in this context, calling it “remaining battery life” is misleading, or at least inconsistent with the “remaining charge capacity” of “Battery Status” screen. Perhaps it would be better to call this “remaining charge”
·       “Estimated time remaining” – measured in hours, in my case, it is always under 15 houts. There is no explanation what it means, I would guess that this is “how many hours will your phone work in stand-by mode”, but then it is way way below what Nokia said – measured in hundreds of hours.
·       “Time since last charge – measured in hours.
So below I summarise my findings, but first, my unit parameters:
Color: Cyan (does not seem to make any difference to people out there – problems “cross” colours;
OS: “7.10.7740.16”
Firmware: 1600.2475.7720.11414
Hardware: 112.1402.2.3
So, in MY case:
1.     “Battery Status” screen:
·       “Charged” – seems to ALWAYS display the figure “65535%”, like all others on the forums. This must be some kind of mistake because it does not change or update and makes no sense, now that we are in this so deep, I hope that Nokia explains what the hell this means, if at all;
·       “Voltage” – seems to show figures of between 3.700 V (i.e., volts) to 4.1 or 4.2 volts. When the battery is low, the voltage seems also to fall below 4.0;
·       “Current”, followed by “charging” or “discharging” and the current, usually between 130 mA (i.e., milliamp) and 500 mA. When the battery “plays nice”, i.e., there is no “problem”, this figure is under 150 ma, usually going seesaw between 140 and 155. When 3G is on, it is above 250 towards 270 mA
·       “Full Charge Capacity” – showing for me usually above 1,500, constantly changes, though less frequently then other figures in this screen. Strangely I noticed that when it is cold (I was jogging and it was in an external pocket with about 7C outside), this number went lower, under 1,500. Perhaps the battery when colder can hold less charge? Nokia should explain. I think that in case of Hadware versions that end in “x.4” the maximum in this parameter is reported under 1,000.
·       “Remaining Charge Capacity” – in my unit this never reaches the “Full Charge Capacity” (which is usually slightly above 1,500 mAh), it stops below 1,350 mAh.
2.     “Battery Saver Screen” and the battery icon on the main screen:
In my case, because the “Remaining” charge never reaches close to the “Full Charge”, when I disconnect the phone from charger, I get straight that “Remaining Battery Life” is “94%” (1350/1500 or so) – and the icon is never 100% “full”, rather “almost” full. “Estimated time remaining” never really above 15 hrs.
So, there seem to be (at least) two major issues/problems in relation to battery/working-time:
1.     Firmware revision (probably) “x.4” may have a faulty battery that would not charge above 1,000 mAh (950 mAh is mentioned by many, or about 1/3rd less than intended by Nokia (unless it is a software bug, which will be huge relief for all, especially for nokia);
2.     Firmware revision “x.3” may have escaped the “crippled” battery of revision “x.4” guys, but from time to time it can lose battery charge at least 2 times faster than otherwise, most likely due to some background processes that can be felt as the device becomes warm even when not switched on (i.e., in stand-by mode). This seems to be intermittent or random and can be stopped by powering-down the phone and then powering-up again.
3.     In all cases, the claim that the phone can be several days in sand-by mode, must be wrong and Nokia must address and explain this.
So in summary, at least in respect of battery, there is a mess. Will be interesting if some people with other WP7 devices can chip-in and say whether it is similar in their cases, but Nokia should be open and explain and even admit mistakes, I hope that this can be rectified by software, or at least it is not a “terminal” complication for Lumia 800, which is a beautiful device.

I would like to thank all the people here who have taken the time to put all this info together for us all and hope it is of help to the folks who are having trouble with battery life. I'm not doing to bad on battery life myself as it always last me though the working part of the day when I don’t have access to a charger and I will soon be updating my car cradle to take the Lumia so will have access to a charger though the day to. Personally I have come from the N900 and that phone also had some battery issues when it first came out which where pretty much sorted over time, as for manufactures claims on battery life, I always read these figures the same way I would read expected miles per gallon that car manufactures put out, meaning that there would only be a very select few that would ever get what the manufactures say you can get the rest of us will all get a very wide variation on these figures. I know that Nokia have acknowledged that there is an issue with battery life and not all of us have this issue, at this moment in time I'm not to unhappy with the battery life, but if it improves then I will be pleased. From all the posts I have read on this site it does seem that some people do read manufactures specifications as if there are set in stone, I'm not criticizing anyone here would just like to say that they are trying to sell you something so have a good look at the figures and maybe check them with other independent sources if at all possible. My only disappointment really is that we have to rely on other people and not Nokia themselves to let us know what’s going on, I wish the manufacture would be more open and quicker to let us know what’s going on and what they are doing to sort out problems and some sort of time frame that we could expect something to come out to fix a problem. I know bugs can me very difficult to find and ever more difficult to fix sometimes but if Nokia put out a weekly report about how things where going on bug fixes or forth coming updates it would help everyone in deciding where they are going with their chosen product.
Again many thanks to all the people helping us all out and wish you all a happy bug free new year.

Why doesn't the Macbook Pro's battery life last?

Why doesn't the Macbook Pro's battery life last anywhere near 5 hours, as advertised? This is my second one and it lasts 2. It's false advertising, and Apple doesn't seem to making a big deal or know anything about it, which i'm sure they do. Since their general practice is to deny problems exist in all their products, i'm here to make it known that the most recent Macbook Pro has a severe battery issue and it needs to be addressed.
I'm running OS X 10.8.3, Bluetooth is off, and haven't installed any third party software.

My MacBook Pro is over a year old and still gets 2.5 to 5 hours, depending on how intensively my application activity is hitting the CPU and disk. Remember that battery life depends on usage and component loads. You could get 1 hour editing HD video since it would hit all cores and slam the disk constantly, or 8 hours in a cabin in the woods with wifi and Bluetooth turned off, only writing text files, and with the backlight turned down and no disc in the drive. You should check Activity Monitor to make sure you don't have some processes using unusually high amounts of CPU for long periods of time (like browser tabs running Flash ads in the background, chewing up CPU and battery power without even being seen).
Like mende1 says, there are not huge numbers of Mac users getting only 2 hours, or the world would have heard about it by now and MacBook sales would be down. If you are only getting 2 hours there is something going on local to your machine or usage habits.
Terry Mele wrote:
Since their general practice is to deny problems exist in all their products
That's not strictly true. Apple has often announced updates or repair/exchange programs to address various problems that had come up over time. Maybe not always, but it does happen. They also have often helped me and my friends when we brought in Macs that were out of warranty and had problems. They had no legal obligation to work on our Macs for free, but they did anyway.

Save and Protect your iPad Device: How to Save and Prolong the battery life of your new ipad

Please, as you read add more answers to this on how to prolong and save your ipad battery life. Thank you
Saving the battery life of your iPad
1.Keep Your iDevice Out of the Sun
Whatever you do, don’t leave your iPhone or iPod sitting in a hot car—heat kills batteries faster than any other factor, and your device that used to keep a charge for hours will eventually barely hold a charge, and you’ll have to pay Apple to get it replaced. The same thing holds true for any really hot environment: try and store your device in a cool place.
Reduce the Screen Brightness
If you keep the screen at maximum brightness all the time, you’re wasting a lot of battery life—and the screens these days are so bright anyway that you don’t really need to, especially at night. Head into Settings -> Brightness & Wallpaper to adjust the default level of brightness, which you can probably keep as low as 30% most of the time.
2. Make Sure the Screen Locks Quickly
Even if you’ve adjusted the screen brightness, there’s still no substitute for having it turn off quickly when you’re not using it. Head into General -> Auto-Lock to set the screen lock to happen as quickly as your device will let you. This makes a big difference if you are always picking up your phone and putting it back into your pocket without turning the display off.
3. Use Airplane Mode When You Don’t Need Internet (iPad/iPhone)
If you’re busy spending the next 8 hours playing Angry Birds, there might not be a good reason to have internet access, so you can consider using Airplane Mode, which turns off both Wi-Fi and the regular wireless radio. Of course, this will prevent phone calls if you’re on an iPhone—but if you’re busy with Angry Birds you probably don’t want the interruption anyway.
4. The more important reason to use Airplane Mode is when you’re mobile in an area with a really spotty connection—because the iPhone or iPad will try to stay connected at all times, it’s going to be constantly searching for a connection, which can drain your battery. Head into Settings and flip the Airplane Mode switch right up at the top of the screen.
Use Wi-Fi Instead of 3G if Possible
According to Apple, the iPad will get 10 hours of battery life under regular use with Wi-Fi enabled, but will only get 9 hours using 3G—the iPhone gets 6 for 3G and 10 for Wi-Fi. Of course, if you’re heavily using the Wi-Fi, you’ll still be draining the battery—the point is under similar workloads, Wi-Fi is better than 3G for battery life.
You can enable Wi-Fi under Settings -> Wi-Fi, and then pick the network you’d like to connect to.
5. Reduce or Eliminate Mail & Calendar Checking
If you’ve got a bunch of email, calendar, or contact accounts configured, and they are all being checked and downloading email on a regular basis, you’ll be draining the battery an awful lot faster than you need to.
Head into Settings -> Mail, Contacts, Calendars -> Fetch New Data and change the setting to the least frequent check possible. If you don’t use it often, you can just turn Push off entirely and then manually check when you need to.
6. Reduce or Eliminate Push Notifications
Do you really need notifications from Twitter or whatever other apps you’re running? You can turn these off one-by-one, or turn off Push entirely by heading into Settings -> Notifications, and save a bit of extra battery life since your device won’t be pulling in data for those applications anymore.
7. Reduce or Eliminate System Sounds
This one is probably a little silly, but if you really don’t care for the system sounds you can save a small amount of battery life by removing the sounds. A very, very small amount, most likely. Head into Settings -> General -> Sounds to change them.
8. Disable Location Services
If you don’t really need the location services, you can disable them to save some battery life. Head into Settings -> General and flip the Location Services setting to off.
9. Disable Bluetooth If You Don’t Need It
If you don’t use a Bluetooth headset or keyboard, you should keep the Bluetooth radio disabled to save some extra battery life. Head into Settings -> General -> Bluetooth to flip it on or off.
10. Disable Vibrate Feature in Games
If you’ve got a game that uses the vibrate feature, you can turn that off to save some battery life. This mostly matters if the game heavily uses it, and you’ll need to change the setting for the game. As a side note, and it should go without saying, if you’re running really intensive video games, they will kill your battery very quickly.
11. Charge and Discharge Your Battery Regularly
Your iDevice needs to be fully discharged and recharged at least once a month to operate at maximum efficiency and keep the battery from dying. You’ll also want to make sure that you don’t store the device with a dead battery, as that can also cause the battery to lose charge capability—when your battery dies, make sure to recharge it quickly.
<Edited by Host>
Irem Bright writes and would love your own addition if you got other helpful tips.
Thank you all.

11. Charge and Discharge Your Battery Regularly
Your iDevice needs to be fully discharged and recharged at least once a month to operate at maximum efficiency and keep the battery from dying. You’ll also want to make sure that you don’t store the device with a dead battery, as that can also cause the battery to lose charge capability—when your battery dies, make sure to recharge itquickly
The reason that Apple suggests you drain and recharge your battery once a month is not because it affects the life ofthe battery. What it actually does is calibrate the battery sensor, giving you a more accurate reading.
Other than that, you done an admirable job of summarizing the Knowledge Base article:
http://www.apple.com/batteries/ipad.html
Best of luck.

With the new iOS 7 - how do you turn off previously viewed app's like the previous iOS to save battery life?

Before I updated to the new iOS - I was able to turn off app's by tapping the bottom button twice and then placing and holding my finger on the app - I can't do that with the new OS and it quickly wastes battery life. What can I do?

Double click on the Home button. Swipe left-right to view the previously opened apps. Swipe UP to close them.

Do the "whine free" sacrfice their right to battery life?

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