Dual boot issues with P67A-GD55 (B3)

Set up a dual boot and from a cold start now the system boots directly into the default OS even though I have it set to display the options for 15 seconds. When this happens I do a soft reset and then the 2 OS choices are there. This is on the 1.C BIOS (latest). Would expect to always see the 2 OS choices on cold boot as well.

yes, I have several HDDs and an SSD. The 2 OSs are on the SSD. The original OS was on the SSD then I created free space on the SSD and installed another OS. I set the original OS as the default and the newer OS as the secondary. The SSD is now and always has been the primary boot disk in BIOS. Again, it's an easily repeatable issue, upoon cold boot there is no option of OS displayed, it just boots right into the default OS. If I reboot then I see the 2 OSs.
Quote from: Bernhard on 08-July-11, 23:12:06
>>Posting Guide<<
Do you have more than one hard drive ? Did your boot priority change in the BIOS after your BIOS flash ? If so, change it back to the HDD/partition where you initially created the dual boot.

Similar Messages

HOW TO DUAL BOOT W540 with windows 8.1 / 7

I got my W540 recently with windows 8.1 pro on it. but as all engineers worst nightmare windows 8 has hard time with engineering softwares (for my case TIA Portal for PLC programming software which only support windows 7). so i need to have a windows 7. i prefer to keep my windows 8 and have dual boot system with windows 7 added. But i can't install windows 7. initially due to disk type (GPT), then i changed it to MBR without losing my files (which only was possible if i had deleted the recovery partition- now my recovery is on my flash drive). But there are already 4 partitions on the system (1 for C: drive and 3 for recovery and system files which came originally with the product) , how can i install a windows 7? i can't add another partition because that makes my disk a Dynamic disk (which i don't really know what is). all in all, i really need windows 7 on my system ASAP. If anyone know how to fix this please reply. Thanks guys.
Solved!
Go to Solution.

You are limited to four PRIMARY partitions on an MBR disk.
But other than the "active" partition (i.e. the small 100MB "system reserved" partition where Boot Manager is placed from doing a cold Windows install on an empty drive, or the 1.4GB equivalent Boot Manager partition that Lenovo provides along with other tools and utilities), all other partitions on the drive can be "logical". They are not required to be PRIMARY, although Lenovo delivers its partitions that way. But you can change that.
You can have up to 120 LOGICAL partitions on a drive (all of which live inside an originally PRIMARY partition which gets converted to an "extended partition" which houses all of the logical partitions. So if you have at least one logical partition (and thus have to give up one primary partition in order to build that required "extended partitions"), that means you can have up to three remaining primary partitions and up to 120 logical partitions... all on an MBR disk. No "dynamic", and no GPT.
Yes, that means even the Windows system partition itself (i.e. "C") can be on a LOGICAL partition. It's only that one "active" partition (where the BIOS goes to find Boot Manager and its menu, and kick off the rest of the system boot process) which truly must be PRIMARY. That's the only requirement.
So, if you want to use MiniTool's Partition Wizard to carve out sufficient free space for your second Windows 7 partition (by shrinking your existing Win8 partition), you can create one or more logical partitions inside that new free space, and do the Win7 install to one of those empty logical partitions. You can then use a second logical partition in that same free space for "data", if you want.
Note that Partition Wizard can even convert one of your existing primary partitions to logical (i.e. convert it to an "extended partition", inside of which will be then be the original primary partition now converted to logical). You can then shrink or move/resize the partitions on the drive (both primary and logical) however you want, to perhaps make room for additional "logical" partitions inside of that now present "extended partition" which can hold up to 120. You can even convert ALL of your primary partitions except for the one "active" partition (which MUST BE PRIMARY) to logical partitions, which gives you maximum flexibility in having even more than just two bootable OS's along with one or more data partitions, etc., up to 120 logical partitions... plus the one "active" primary Boot Manager "system reserved" partition which must be kept.

Can I dual boot Mac with Windows?

Hi all,
At the moment I have Windows 7 32 bit OS. I've always wanted either an iMac, or atleast the Mac OS. I've recently found out it's only £20.99, and i've always thought it was a lot more than that, which is a bargain! The only thing which is stopping me from buying it at the moment, is that certain programs which I use reguarlarly won't work on Mac, and I really need those programs. Is their anyway I could dual-boot it with Windows 7, so I give Windows 7 say only 8gb of my hard drive, and Mac the rest?
I will appreciate any answers, and thanks for tackling this for me!

ryanroks1 wrote:
Thanks for helping
Is an Intel Mac just an Intel Processor, with Mac OS?
Yes Macs changed to Intel Processors in about 2007. You can upgrade as far as Lion with a Core2Duel Processor or better. CoreDuos will only update as far as Snow Leopard.
Hope this helps
Pete

Can Tiger run a dual boot system with the two internal hard drives

Can Mac run a dual boot system with the two internal hard drives both running Tiger?
Dual 2.5GHz G5
I am wanting to use one hard drive with Tiger to run my graphics stuff and then reboot and use the other hard drive for video.

Yes, you can set that configuration up.
(26293)

8GB of RAM Installed, only 4GB detected/used by BIOS/Windows 7 (with P67A-GD55)

Let me start off by saying that I'm not very good with computers. At all. I know a little bit about them, but I am by no means an expert. That said, I have 8GB of RAM installed on my motherboard, spread out across 4 sticks. However, upon looking at my BIOS and my Windows Resource Monitor, it declares that I only have 4GB of RAM installed and usable. This is what I know so far:
- This issue has been prevalent as long as I've had my computer, and by extension my motherboard and my RAM sticks, so this issue isn't recent.
- I do have a 64bit version of Windows 7. I've checked and double-checked, and I'm 99.5% positive that it is.
- Speccy, a 3rd party program designed for checking system specs, declares that I do, in fact, have 8GB installed.
- I don't think that the RAM is bad because the BIOS still does pick up on different statistics of the RAM that are in the slots; it just fails to register the actual fact that they're there.
System Specs:
OS: Windows 7 64bit SP1
CPU: Intel Core i5 2500K @ 3.30GHz
RAM: Patriot PSD32G133K 4x2GB DDR3 @ 498MHz
Motherboard: MSI P67A-GD55 P67 LGA 1155
HDD: 977GB SAMSUNG SAMSUNG HD103SJ ATA Device (SATA)
Optical Drive: LG DVDRAM GH24NS50 ATA Device
GPU: AMD Radeon HD 6870 1GB VRAM
PSU: Cooler Master 750 Watt
BIOS Version: E7681IMS V1.5
Now this is where it gets interesting: My motherboard has 4 DIMM slots for the RAM, and the motherboard (I assume by default) works in dual-channel mode. This means that DIMM 1 and 3 work together and so do DIMM 2 and 4, which most of you probably understand. However, filling up all 4 slots only gives me half the RAM. So I remove the RAM from slots 2 and 4, and it results in all 4GB of RAM being detected. Then, I add in each other RAM stick one at a time, and it fails to register both. So I remove the RAM from slots 1 and 3, and keep the RAM from slots 2 and 4, and it ends up in all 4GB being registered.
I feel like the answer should be directly in front of me, but from endless Google searches and posts on other forums, I have ended up at a dead end. I'm completely clueless, so I could really use some help.
Any and all help would be appreciated.
Also, if this is the wrong forum for this, feel free to move it wherever.

Quote from: Jack on 28-August-11, 01:11:56
What is your current UEFI/BIOS Version?
The usual cause of such problems is (apart from bad memory slots or a defect of the processor's memory controller) a contact problem between the boards CPU Socket contact pins and the CPU's contact pads. Broke or bent pins are one explanation, in other instances a heatsink that is fastened to tight can also cause such issues.
I'll have the BIOS version up in a moment, but I'll see about diagnosing if one of those problems might just be what is my problem. Any tips on doing that?
Also, BIOS version is up in the OP now.

BSOD issues with Z68A-GD55 (B3): BIOS issue? Hardware issue? Voltage issue?

Built this PC two months ago and have had issues. This is the message posted on the BIOS section:
Quote from: Grahamburger76 on 19-November-11, 03:48:23
I have the z68-gd55 (b3). I built this PC bout two months ago. Awhile after the build, started getting BSODs during gaming and eventually was led here to flash a new BIOS. I flashed the latest beta BIOS successfully and played for several hours. Then sleep the pc but get a BSOD again when powering it back up. The BCCode indicates an issue with the GPU or driver but I have read on that there was a problem in the BIOS for the z68-gd65 (g3) that the voltage was off and needed to be set differently to accommodate
Quote from: Bernhard on 23-September-11, 03:14:41
@Junior, all three BIOS' that I tested, the BCLK is shown as 100 in the BIOS but once in the OS it applies 98. I have now set the base freq manually 10010 and that applies 100,2 BCLK once in the OS. Needs to be fixed.
   The multi is still artificially restricted at X49.
   DRAM auto apply voltage is 1,472 in the BIOS. I set it manually to 1,5V (1,507V) to prevent BSOD. Rebooting, the BIOS still shows applied DRAM voltage as 1,472 although 1,507 is applied. Need to do some DMM tests.
   CPU phase control on the latest BIOS works correctly in Intel SVID Mode with the LEDs being lit solidly from 1 to 6 as the load is applied.
   Selecting APS results in either the first 3 LEDs being lit or all 6 LEDs being lit, nothing in between.
Has this been an issue in this boards BIOS too? Thanks because short of RMAing parts, I am about at a loss as to what to do to fix these issues.
This started with screen freezes needing hard restart using the restart button while playing Dragon Age:Origin and continued with Battlefield p4f, and BF3. After reseating the CPU/cooler, RAM, GPU then updating the drivers using Live Update 5 and then manually updating; I started getting BSODs and restarts while playing games and several time while using 3D Mark. Tried to change the voltage for the DRAM with no help and loaded only the Default Optimized Settings in BIOS. I updated the BIOS to the listing in my signature, moved the HDD and Optical drive to different SATA ports and updated the audio driver to the current one on MSI website. System finally seemed to be running fine then the stuff happened as quoted form my previous post.
As this stuff has continued, the PC seems to be running slower and slower. What I mean by that is the boot times have started taking longer and the system does not respond as quickly to commands. Like now, as I type, I am at least two or three words ahead of what is put on the screen (never has done that before). Funny thing about that is this was the fastest computer I have ever had with response, booting, and post (my wife even commented on how fast it booted up). Not sure if the other issues have anything to do with this but I am trying to post everything I can think of to give all the necessary info. If more information is needed then let me know and possibly tell me where to find it?
Not really sure how to post the dump files from Blue Screen View and My Event Viewer but gladly would if someone can give a newbie some direction on this. Thanks in advance for all help and consideration.

Yes, the BIOS I have flashed was pulled from there. I thought it had the problem resolved until it had another BSOD after several hours of use.
The Stop:error code, is that the Bug Check Code from the Blue Screen Viewer?
BBCode     0x00000116 (Parameters: fffffa80`0c09d4e0   fffff880`043a180c 00000000`00000000     00000000`0000000d)
I may have given you more stuff than you needed but I just figured to be thorough. This is the record from yesterday but there are like 5 or 6 more from the previous month that are in order from most recent to oldest.
DRIVER_IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL BBCode 0x000000d1 (Parameters: 00000000`0000009d     00000000`00000002   00000000`00000001   fffff880`055bbe7d)
BBCode 0x00000116    (Parameters: fffffa80`089c64e0   fffff880`0b95c008   00000000`00000000   00000000`00000002)
     BBCode 0x00000116 (Parameters: fffffa80`0c2094e0   fffff880`0440780c 00000000`00000000   00000000`00000002)
SYSTEM_THREAD_EXCEPTION_NOT_HANDLED BBCode    0x1000007e    (Parameters: ffffffff`c000001d   fffff880`00000001   fffff880`02b982b8   fffff880`02b97b10)
CRITICAL_OBJECT_TERMINATION     BBCode 0x000000f4 (Parameters:   00000000`00000003   fffffa80`08761730   fffffa80`08761a10   fffff800`031908b0)

Unable to install windows 7 and fedora in a dual boot even with windows 8 and fedora also

Unable to install fedora in dual boot please help me to install, is my system supports windows 7 or not with fedora or windows 8.1 with fedora please help me i need very urgent installation of fedora

Hi @siddu007 ,
Thank you for visiting the HP Support Forums and Welcome. I have looked into your issue about your HP 15-r262tu Notebook and issues with Dual booting Fedora. Here is the support site for Linux for troubleshooting.
Here is a link to Microsoft on your Downgrade Rights. Some features will not be available in a different OS.
Thanks.
Please click “Accept as Solution ” if you feel my post solved your issue, it will help others find the solution.
Click the “Kudos, Thumbs Up" on the bottom to say “Thanks” for helping!

975x Platinum PowerUp Dual Boot Issue

Hello -
I have a 975x Plat. PowerUp and dual boot Linux and Windows XP. This process works fine on BIOS 7.1, but fails to boot the Windows disk on BIOS 7.4 and newer. The disk still works, it just can't be started by the Linux bootloader (grub).
I spent a lot of time working on this as a grub issue, but in the end the only thing that affects the problem is revision of the BIOS I am using. (e.g., flash 7.4, Windows does not boot, reboot and flash 7.1, Windows boots).
I also get an issue where I cannot eject the CD drive on warm boot under the same conditions (like a BIOS boot disc, or a Windows boot disc). Works fine on 7.1 not on 7.4 or newer.
I have all 4 ports on the ICH7 controller used for hard drives, and the JMicron controller used for a SATA DVD drive. The issue occurs in IDE or AHCI mode (currently using AHCI mode).
Are these known problems? Are there known fixes? I would like to use a newer BIOS because I have an MS USB keyboard that does not work in DOS mode with BIOS < 7.4 (need keyboard to select OS at boot time).
Thanks,
Chris

Not sure if this will help: BIOS 7.61 BETA - Flash at your own risk - http://www.msi-forum.de/thread.php?threadid=32518&threadview=1&hilight=&hilightuser=0#post264463

Inconsistent grub error 17, dual booting issues

Hello,
I've recently installed Arch as a second OS on my computer, but I'm having a bit of trouble when it comes to booting it. I'm a bit new to Linux in general, but I've tried to research the problem, and seem to have run into a wall. Any comments, insight, suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Preemptive apologies for being windy, I'm trying to give as much relevant info as possible here
****************Here are the details:******************
-1st hard drive (sda): Windows 7
-2nd hard drive (sdb): Arch
Partitioning scheme:
sdb1 = boot, about 100Mb, ext2
sdb2 = swap, ~2gig
sdb3 = root, ~20gig, ext3
sdb4 = home, the rest (HD is 500gb total), ext3
-grub is installed on the MBR of sdb
-windows has no problems booting independently (when i disconnect my second hard drive), so sda hasn't been touched at all
in grub's menu.lst:
arch has root set to (hd1,0)
windows 7 has rootnoverify set to (hd0,0), with chainloader +1 after.
**************The issue:********************
when choosing to boot arch from grub, (this is booting off of the second hard drive), i get an error 17, saying the filesystem is unrecognized and the partition type is 0x7.
if i then enter into the command line mode for grub, and try
find /grub/stage1
it spits out (hd0,0), which is incorrect. it should be (hd1,0) since my boot partition is the first partition on the second hard drive, and (hd0,0) is an entirely different hard drive with nothing but windows on it.
An interesting complication:
If I boot the USB iso image of arch I used to originally install it, and I highlight the option "boot existing OS", press tab to change hd0 0 to hd1 0, it loads up Grub, and from there on Grub boots perfectly fine to Arch - implying that at the very least Arch installed on the hard drive properly. Also, Grub run in this fashion seems to realize that (hd1,0) is ext2.
After booting arch as in the previous paragraph^ (note, this is arch as installed on the hard drive, not the liveCD version), i run:
grub
grub> find /grub/stage1
and it replies that stage1 is in hd(1,0), which is where it should be.
Googling suggests my partitions are somehow messed up, but I'm not completely sure of that. Booting from the USB image and running
fdisk -l
seems to give the right partition order and sizes.
However, there could be a problem stemming from how I partitioned the second hard drive in the first place: it's an Advanced Format drive, and using Western Digital's guidelines - http://wdc.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/5655 - i ran:
parted -a optimal /dev/sdb
and created my partitions, then used the Arch installer to establish their file systems and do the rest.
I don't have any concrete ideas about what's going on, except that Grub is somehow having trouble mounting/recognizing the file system when I try to run it from the MBR directly.
Once again, sorry for such a long post, and any help at all is greatly appreciated.

Ok, so I've tried to reconfigure my grub/menu.lst as described in https://wiki.archlinux.org/index.php/Pe … t_managers .
When I try to boot after that, it claims that the device /dev/disk/by-uuid/*the uuid i got for my boot partition* cannot be found.
This next paragraph might be a bit of a facepalm moment; in retrospect, it seems like it should be obvious that this would happen (like lifeafter2am is saying, my drives are getting switched at boot up):
After booting up grub in a bunch of different configurations, I've managed to determine that what my computer does is this:
- In the bios, I changed the boot order to be USB -> 2nd hard drive (the one with arch on it) -> first hard drive (since I use a USB for a liveCD, and the 2nd hard drive's MBR has grub on it, which i want to use to dual boot both arch and windows, windows being on the first hard drive).
So every time I insert the usb, it changes what grub perceives to be hd0 and hd1. When I insert the usb, the usb becomes hd0, and the other drives are renumbered. When I try to boot without the USB, having the BIOS boot from my second hard drive makes the second hard drive become hd0.
What with ^ going on, I simply went in to the grub/menu.lst and changed arch's (hd1,0) to (hd0,0), and now it recognizes that (hd0,0) is indeed an ext2 fs, partition type 0x83, etc.
The problem now is: no matter what I try to set the root in menu.lst to be, whether it's sdb1, sda1, some uuid label, grub starts booting and then says error: unable to mount the real root device, and dumps me into a shell with a good luck message.
Is there a way to figure out what i should set grub's root in menu.lst to be, from the arch iso on my USB, keeping in mind the fact that inserting the USB renumbers the hard drives?
I don't wanna make the analogy to quantum mechanics, but this almost seems like an observer disturbing the results type of thing >_<
Last edited by sergs (2012-02-12 01:18:54)

Is there any possible way I can dual boot Windows with OSX 10.7.2 on a MacBook Pro 15' from 2006?

Hello,
I am new to this forums.
I have searched about dual boot win/mac, but couldn't find a clear answer, so I decided to post this now.
I run a MacBook Pro 15' from 2006 (Intel based) and have upgraded it to OSX 10.7.2 Lion.
I have tried to install windows 7 on a small (20GB) partition by using Bootcamp, but then I've received a notice saying that there was no windows support software available. However, I did install Windows 7 Professional by unchecking that box. After the installation I have downloaded the windows support software and tried to install it but then I've received a notice saying that I can't install it on this machine.
Could you please give me any suggestions on how to dual boot win/mac, if it is possible at all using this machine? And how to safely go back to where I was before (with a single mac OSX 10.7.2 partition)?
Thanks.

This problem has been solved as I just needed to download Boot Camp 4.
Can I delete this post?

Serious boot issues with Powerbook G3 (Wallstreet II, OS 9.2.2)

Hello,
I have major issues with a Powerbook Wallstreet II I got recently. When it's finally running, it works just as well as Wallstreet Powerbooks usually do, no errors, no crashing, smooth performance, everything fine.
But booting it up is, to put it mildy, a bloody pain. First off, it does not power up, when it's only connected to batteries. I have two of them, both working fine for several hours when put in after bootup, but no matter if I place one or both of them in any bays, nothing happens when pressing or holding the power button (apart from screen flickering and speaker crackling). I'm always forced to connect the power adapter, which immediatly (without pressing the power button) causes the power LED to light and the cooling fan insanely spins up for a mere couple of split seconds until everything wents silent again.
Having reached this point, I can disconnect the power supply (if at least one battery is in) and usually hear a nice "BONG" when pressing the power button once again. Thereafter, nothing happens for a oppressive 30 seconds, then, the screen finally lits and shows the Mac OS 9.2.x splash screen on monochrome background. Sadly, this is already the end of most of my first boot up tries, because at this point, I usually get told by a dialogbox that a bus error has just happened. The box also has a nice "Reboot" button, which I cannot click as the trackpad hangs as well.
Pressing ShiftFn+CrtlPower works here in about one out of three time, so in most cases, I have to go through the same procedure. Pull out power sources, give a shot via PSU, have it iddling for 30 secs. In most cases, this second try lets me pass splash screen, loader, yes, it even lets me see the desktop, the taskbar, the HDD icon and... pouf. Success is so close but no, it has to suddenly drop into sleep mode and
a short press on power proves the apprehension true, that it won't be easy to wake it up again. Hrmph. But I don't give that easily. So pulling everthing out for the second time, connect PSU for the third time and look there, it fully boots.
Three tries to successfully boot is about average at first try series. Afterwards, it seems to be "warmed up" and things get easier. I made a log recently with 5 test series, made at very frequent intervals:
Series 1:
1. Bootup: Bus Failure (Hard reboot fails) (bays empty)
2. Bootup: Sleep Mode (bays empty)
3. Bootup: Sleep Mode (bays empty)
4. Bootup: Sleep Mode (both batteries)
5. Bootup: Bus Failure (Hard reboot successful)(both batteries)
6. Bootup: Success (left battery, right bay empty)
Series 2:
1. Bootup: Success(left battery, right bay empty)
Series 3:
1. Bootup: Bus Failure (!!!) (left battery, right bay empty)
2. Bootup: Success (bays empty)
Series 4:
1. Bootup Success (left bay empty, right battery)
Series 5:
1. Bootup Success (both batteries)
Thanks in advance for any helpful suggestions.

jpl,
Thank you for continuative support.
If you plan on buying a 256MB memory module, the Wallstreet requires
a 256 specifically made for it (and the early iMac
and Lombard). Modules 128MB and smaller can be
generic if they meet the Wallstreet's specs.
Thanks for this information.
You might find it useful to disassemble the 'book to the PMU, carefully remove/reseat the PMU card, then test.
Well, to be honest, I don't have the time to perform this very labour-intensive work. However, I pulled out the large PMU connector (the one that can be reached by lifting the keyboard) and reseated it, without any results. Shouldn't that suffice? Or is there another connection that could need maintenance?
Regarding sleep: There is no display position sensor, only a simple magnet in the right display bezel approximately 4" from the bottom...you can stick a paperclip to it. When the display closes, it triggers a sleep switch located next to the delete key in the side rail.
Ah, okay.
According to Apple, if the powerbook will not run on battery, it could be the charge card or PMU board or power supply card or logic board. However, your 'book apparently runs on battery once started via power adapter.
Actually, it does not allow me to power up, if I attach the adapter right after an unsuccessful try to operate from battery. Even if I remove the batteries (after adapter connection).
It's like it is "crashed" before it's even running. Which means, I have to pull all power sources to be able to perform the resuscitating power up via adaptor.
A normal power manager reset on the Wallstreet is this:
1. If the computer is on, turn it off.
2. Simultaneously press Shift-Fn (function)-Ctrl >(control)-Power.
3. Wait 5 seconds.
4. Press the Power button to restart the PowerBook >computer.
A successful reset will briefly flash the sleep light plus >spin up the fan for a second. If a reset does not solve the >startup and sleep issues, then you will have to look >elsewhere.
I can see the sleep LED and I do hear the fan, however, this didn't help in most cases. After perfoming this action (in a freeze situation), I usually only got rattling noises out of the speakers or screen flashes when trying to power up.
Be sure the powerbook only freezes when closing the display to sleep it.
Well, I noticed it sometimes also freezes when left idle directly after start up (and power save is activated). Later, it comes right back again.
- Is the sleep light blinking before you open the display?
Yes.
- When the display is opened, does the sleep light continue to blink? (It should.)
Yes.
- When you press the power button, do you hear a 'buzz' or some similar noise? If you do, you may have another issue to explore.
No. I usually only hear speaker noise when trying to power up from battery. But oddly enough, the lenght of the sleep light blinks changes when power button is hold down in "frozen sleep".
I would also go to the System Folder > Preferences folder and drag the Energy Saver Preferences to the Trash, close all windows, then restart...a new preference file will be created on restart. You can reset the Energy Saver to your like, then test sleep.
Done.
-Does sleep/wake always work when NOT closing the display? Try this after resetting the power manager and trashing the pref file mentioned below.
If I initiate sleep, yes. If it suspends automatically, well, usually. But not always (see above).

Dual boot issues

I've been attempting to get up to speed on labview, labview RT, the PXI (8106), and getting the PXI to dual boot labview RT and windows XP. Question here is only about dual booting. I have the PXI set up with a fat32 partition physically before (C the NTFS partition that windows XP is installed on (E. I installed windows, worked great. I then tried to boot in to labview RT/communicate with the PXI (booting into RT using the bios software switch). No dice since no RT software was installed. So I used a USB memory stick and the software from MAX to install RT on to the PXI. Worked, I can communicate with the PXI, awesome. Today I wanted to boot back in to windows. Go in to the bios, set it to boot windows/other OS . . . and it boots in to labview RT. Dammit. What did I do wrong? What can I do to correct this? Please tell me I don't have to re-do the windows install. It will be my fourth time and installing all that NI software takes a painful amount of time!
Thanks,
Chris

If you attempt to fix your master boot record, here's a couple other things to keep in mind:
1. When you used the RT USB key, did you select the Format option to only update the 1st available partition or format the entire disk? Gerardo's suggested approach will of course only work if you did the former.
2. If you don't have any success with FixMBR since it is a slightly more complicated disk configuration with two partitions, there is another approach you can try if you meet the following requirements:
(a) You originally set up two partition configuration on your disk with the NI OS Recovery media
(b) You have another disk of the exact same type that you are willing and able to erase.
(c) You only did the partital format of the original drive from the RT USB key (see item #1 above)
(d) You have a bootable USB key (see note below)
If so, you could do the following:
1. Put the 2nd disk on your PXI-8106
2. Run the OS installer, and configure it exactly as you did with the first disk.
3. You should now have a disk with a master boot record that exactly matches the one you'd like on your original controller.
4. Boot to DOS from your USB key and run MBRWizard to save a copy of the master boot record (http://mbrwizard.com)
5. Put the original disk back on your PXI-8106, boot to DOS again, and run MBRWizard to restore that saved MBR file to update the master boot record on the original disk.
It sounds pretty involved but really can be done in a few minutes because for step 2 -you don't need to fully install the OS. We're only interested in getting a copy of the master boot record, which is one of the first things that the installer will configure. Once you see the installer copying files to the disk, you can stop the system and proceed to step 3.
Note on DOS-bootable USB key: If you don't have a DOS-bootable USB key, there is a variety of ways to set one up but a relatively easy one is to grab this disk diagnostic tool from NI: Fujitsu Disk Diagnostic. Careful, once you run the tool, IT WILL ERASE YOUR ENTIRE USB KEY. Technically it is for setting up a disk diagnostic, but you should be able to copy the mbr wizard tool to the key and also run that from DOS. Delete the autoexec.bat file that gets created on the USB key to prevent the Fujitsu tool from running automatically. You could for example re-use the RT USB key you previously configured, although it will be wiped and new files put on it.
Last thing: If you don't have a second drive available, please post the exact details on the drive you do have and the specifics on how you originally partitioned the drive (what tools, what partition sizes). I might be able to help you out and create the MBR file for you, so you would only need to worry about step 5 above (and setting up a DOS bootable USB key).
Cheers,
Josh

Dual Boot Selection with two SSD Installed

I have two SAMSUNG SSD's installed in the W540.
SSD #1 -- Microsoft Windows 7 Professional
SSD #2 -- Microsoft Windows 7 Ultimate
The SSD's had a complete install of each Microsoft Windows operating system without using the dual boot manager. I select teh SSD to boot from by using teh F12 key at boot time.
On my previous computer (HP EliteBook Workstation 8560w), the BIOS had a option to display a boot selection menu for me to select from without having to manually select the option to display. The boot selection menu gave me 20-30 seconds to select a alternative boot option. If I did not respond it woudl boot to the primary drive.
Can the Lenovo W540 be setup the same way? I can find no options in the latest BIOS.

I am honestly dubious that your previous HP machine had anything in the BIOS to provide this "Boot Manager" functionality you've described. Your description is exactly what Boot Manager in Windows does, which probably what was in effect on your HP machine.
Now you say you installed two separate versions of Windows on two separate drives, and without involving Windows Boot Manager. That suggests to me that you unplugged the other SSD when you did each install, so that the Windows installer didn't even know about the other bootable OS when doing its current install. If it had seen the other pre-existing bootable Windows, then the second install would have triggered the creation of a 2-OS boot menu (identical to what you say you saw on your old HP machine). You could still have two bootable Windows, on two separate drives (or, you could also have installed to two separate partitions on one drive if you wanted to), and at boot time Boot Manager would present the menu to you and you'd select one or the other. The most recent Windows to get installed would probably have made itself the "default", so that after 10-30 seconds it would auto-boot to that Windows if you didn't arrow up/down and press ENTER to select the other Windows for this particular boot.
The BIOS of the machine has a "boot sequence" setup, and one of your two SSD drives MUST be first, in front of the other. So at boot time by default (in the absence of F12 to select a boot device) the BIOS would normally go to THAT "first" drive in the boot sequence list, locate the "active" partition on that drive (where Boot Manager is assumed to live), and start the boot process. If Boot Manager sees a 1-OS boot menu, it just goes to that partition (as C, where Windows lives on that drive) and starts Windows. If a 2-OS boot menu exists, Boot Manager presents it to you and you decide which Windows you want to boot to.
When you push F12 at boot time, you simply say to the BIOS "let me pick which of my drives I want you to go to, to then find the "active" partition on that drive to kick off the boot process". Since you did two completely independent Windows installs, I would say that you probably have a "system reserved" partition (which is marked "active") on each SSD, along with a C system partition (for Windows) on each SSD. So you can actually boot to either drive, via F12, or you can just let the machine boot to whichever one you know to be first in the boot sequence list.
But... if you'd simply installed your second Windows to the second SSD while the first Windows/SSD was still cabled and visible, the second Windows install would have done everything you're now asking to be done. The existing 1-OS boot menu (on the first SSD) would have been seen and updated by the Windows installer, to add the second Windows to the menu which would thus now be a 2-OS boot menu. The second Windows would get installed wherever you wanted it to get installed (i.e. to the second SSD), and all would be well with the world.
Note that had this taken place, no second "system reserved" partition (marked "active", and housing the second copy of Boot Manager) would have been created on the second SSD with the second installed Windows. The existing "system reserved" (marked "active", and living on the first drive in the BIOS boot sequence list) would simply have had its boot menu updated from 1-OS to 2-OS, and you'd be home free right now.
This is exactly how Boot Manager works. I'm sure your old HP machine had such a setup, with your two Windows installed sequentially over time, and with the second one recognizing the first one's existence and adding itself to the boot menu to produce a 2-OS boot menu which is what you saw. That wasn't from the BIOS. It was from Windows Boot Manager handling a 2-OS boot menu.
So, what can you do now? Well, technically, you only need one "active" partition (i.e. "system reserved", where Boot Manager lives) on the first SSD in your BIOS boot sequence list. You won't need the second "system reserved" which in my opinion was probably created (unnecessarily) when you did your second Windows install with the first SSD temporarily disconnected.
But the goal here is to get the 1-OS boot menu that's on the first SSD "system reserved" partition updated, to add the second Windows on the second SSD, producing a 2-OS boot menu. And to do that you can use a wonderful 3rd-party product named EasyBCD. It is a tool to maintain your boot menu, and you can manually do things after-the-fact (like now) which you should have done before, or simply to perform maintenance or changes.
So, with both SSD's cabled and operational (your current booted Windows will appear as C, and probably your other drive's Windows partition will thus appear as D to the current booted Windows), you run EasyBCD. It really doesn't matter which Windows is on the first SSD and that is first in the BIOS boot sequence, only that it will be the boot menu in the "system reserved" partition on that drive which will be manipulated by EasyBCD to become the 2-OS menu. You can make either Windows the default (which will auto-boot in 10 seconds if you don't select the other Windows), no matter which SSD it's on.
You can view the current boot menu (from the currently booted Windows) via EDIT. You pick which entry is to be the "default".
To add a new entry to the boot menu, push the ADD button and navigate to the drive (D) the Windows to be added lives on.
If you don't already have same, I would recommend you have a "system image" backup of both of your bootable Windows drives (to an external USB 3.0 drive, ideally), so that if you're skittish about doing this you'll at least be able to quickly and easily restore what you currently have from your backups.
But believe me, EasyBCD can be trusted to do exactly what you want to do... which is to create a 2-OS boot menu on your first drive's "system reserved" partition. This 2-OS boot menu will name BOTH of your two bootable Windows, from your two SSD drives. You won't need to push F12 to select the boot device, just let the machine go to the first drive in the boot sequence and kick off Boot Manager, and the rest will behave exactly as you are now seeking.
Let me know if you have questions. And for sure, let us know how it turns out.

Setting up a dual boot system with OS 9 and OS 10

I am currently running OS 9.2 on the G4 and want to run OS 10.4 as a dual boot system. Can I go as far as 10.4 with dual boot? Is there any more to it than partitioning the system drive in two and installing the two OS's on the two partitions?

Hi, Matt -
Is there any more to it than partitioning the system drive in two and installing the two OS's on the two partitions?
No.
As Dave Hamilton said, if using OSX's Disk Utility to do the partitioning, be sure you select the option to install OS 9 drivers. If that option is not selected, then OS 9 will not be able to mount the volume(s), nor use one for booting.
Reminder - partitioning a drive requires that it be re-initialized. This will erase everything on the drive, so be sure you have backed up anything you do not want to lose.
And, be sure to select Mac OS Extended as the format for all partitions. That is the only format which can be used by both OS 9 and OSX for booting.
<hr>
Although many folk do partition a drive (or use two separate drives - your DA model is pre-equipped to accept a second internal drive), you do not need to do that in order to install OSX.
OSX should install smoothly onto the same drive where OS 9 is located. There is no conflict between the two - machines which originally came with both OS 9 and OSX pre-installed had both installed on an unpartitioned drive.
However, there are distinct advantages to having OS 9 and OSX on separate volumes or drives -
• Maintenance and/or repair of each OS and its files is easier
• Re-installation of either OS, should that ever be necessary, is easier
• Startup Manager can be used

How to get higher cpu voltage during load when using "auto" with P67A-GD55?

I have a little question regarding cpu voltage: When i set vcore to "auto" i get a nice low voltage when idle but during load i only get 1.264 max and that is to low.
Is there a setting to increase the voltage during load and still have the cpu vcore set to auto?
Thanks
System:
P67A-GD55 with 1.8 bios
I7 2600k
8gb Corsair

Quote from: Bernhard on 01-May-11, 15:25:22
OK, so you are able to set your CPU voltage manually. You need to consider that the auto voltages will compensate only up to a certain OC level, after which the user usually has to do manual adjustments. This auto compensation differs for each hardware combination. As HU16E suggested, try low VDroop and see if it helps. The other alternative is a BIOS flash, or manual voltage settings.
I tried low vdroop but it didn´t make any difference. But it´s ok, i can set the vcore manually but i was just investigating if i could get the best of both worlds with the powersavings auto vcore offers during idle

Dual boot issues with P67A-GD55 (B3)

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