EF-S 55-250mm F4-5.6 IS STM Lens

Can the EF-S 55-250mm F4-5.6 IS STM Lens be used for macro. The resin I ask is because I am new at macro and don't know if I will enjoy it. So I don't want to get a dedicated lens as of yet. So I figured if I can use this lens for it I can also use it for other things as well expecially if I decided not to peruse macro or if I do wish to this one can still serve a perpus.

Hi Jake.
The 55-250 is not a macro lens, and not even one of the ones that are kind of close to shooting macro.
You can look into extension tubes, which mount along with a lens if you do not want to get a dedicated macro lens.
Dedicated macro lenses are fixed focal length lenses (primes) like 60mm or 90mm or 100mm or 180mm. There are no macro zooms as far as I know.
That does not mean you can't use extension tubes on your zoom lens, it will just be a little tricky. You will want to set a focal length and leave it alone - don't zoom around- or it will change your minimum focus distance which might mess you up. With macro you want a long lens anyway, so just peg the zoom at the 55mm end and leave it alone.
Scott
Canon 6D, Canon T3i, EF 70-200mm L f/2.8 IS mk2; EF 24-105 f/4 L; EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS; EF 85mm f/1.8; Sigma 35mm f/1.4 "Art"; EF 1.4x extender mk. 3; 3x Phottix Mitros+ speedlites
Why do so many people say "fer-tographer"? Do they take "fertographs"?

Similar Messages

How do I choose my first Canon DSLR camera?

I've had a Sony for 4 years, but owning a Canon is my dream. I've grown as a photographer, winning some contests and doing small family/group shoots. I still need to learn about manual shooting. It's seems like there are so many variations. Then I hear it's not best to buy the kit. I've been looking at the EOS T3i. Can anyone advise me on this?

Hi,
The standard Canon-assembled "kits" are fine....
Those are the ones where Canon themself has pre-packaged camera and lens(es) together.
With the T3i you'll most commonly find it bundled with the EF-S 18-55mm IS (or IS/STM) lens. You also likely willl find it with both the 18-55mm and the EF-S 55-250 IS (now also sometimes in STM version). An alternative you will somtimes find is the camera with the EF-S 18-135mm IS (also somtimes in STM version), though this "kit" lens is more often bundled with the 60D or 70D, than the Rebel series.
You have to watch out for retailer bundles, where they substitute lower quality items and add a bunch of inexpensive stuff such as a flimsy tripod, an off-brand memory card, some poor quality filters, etc. You will see these online occasionally, from some less than reputible "dealers". Often the prices sound too good to be true, because they are. Sometimes they use bait n switch tactics, telling you things such as the kit doesn't include a battery charger, but they have one available at a steeply inflated price, or that the camera is a special version that has the menu only in some obscure language and that's why it's so much cheaper.
So long as you stick with the more reputible online dealers such as B&H Photo, Adorama, etc. you will generally be fine. Amazon is generally good, too. Many people find good deals at Best Buy, as well. There are many good dealers to choose among... no need to go to some of the shadier ones. A basic rule of thumb... if you find prices that are significantly less than B&H or Adorama, be suspicious. Those are two of the highest volume stores in the U.S., so other dealers are unlikely to be able to beat their prices by very much. If the deal sounds too good to be true, it probably is!
Really all the current Canon DSLRs are quite capable of taking great photographs. There are differences in some of the features, model to model. One of the "factory" kits may be a convenient starting point and can be good, or if you have a bit more to spend you might want to choose a camera model that leaves enough in your budget to be able to upgrade lenses or add other accessories you feel you need.... In most cases, lenses will ultimately make more difference in your photos than the camera they are used upon.
For example, instead of the EF-S 18-55mm "kit" lens, you might want to consider the wider and longer EF-S 15-85mm IS USM lens as a very versatile choice. Or, if you like to shoot in lower light situations, you may prefer the EF-S 17-55mm f2.8 IS USM lens. Instead of the EF-S 55-250mm "kit" lens, you might prefer the EF 70-200mm f4L IS USM or EF 70-200mm f2.8L IS USM.... These are professional grade, workhorse lenses that cost a lot more than the kit lenses, but provide a number of benefits: faster and more accurate autofocus, more effecive image stabilization, higher build quality and better sealing against dust and moisture, and more. Image quality will be better, too.... though the "kit" lenses, used right, are pretty darned capable.
You also might already have some more specialized lenses in mind.... Such as a fast, short telephoto like the EF 50/1.4 or EF 85/1.8 if you plan to shoot a lot of portraits. Or perhaps a macro lens such as the EF-S 60/2.8 USM or EF 100/2.8 USM or 100/2.8L USM IS, if macro photography is something you want to do a lot. Or you might enjoy photographing scenery and want a wide angle lens such as the EF-S 10-22mm USM.
I wish people would spend more time choosing their lenses than their cameras, since the lenses will actually make a bigger difference. And senses chosen well might actually outlast your camera.... I switched to the Canon system in 2001, buying two film cameras and four lenses at the time (I had a really good idea what I needed because I'd already been shooting with a variety of other systems for 20+ years). I still have and use three of those four lenses, and have added a number of others as needs and opportunity arose in the years since.
Meanwhile I've switched from film to digital cameras, and used four different generations of DSLRs extensively (more generations than that if I count short duration use of loaners or rental cameras). Now the development of digital technology has slowed a bit, so there might be less need to upgrade as frequently... But still I expect cameras will come and go... While lenses - bought right - are more of a long term investment.
Think of what you are buying as a "system".... camera, lens(es), and accessories. In addition to the camera and lens(es), you'll need memory cards, possibly spare batteries, lens hoods, maybe some useful filters, an accessory flash, perhaps a tripod, a convenient bag to carry it all around in... Well, you get the idea. You also might need software, a computer that's up to the task or image editing, extra hard drive storage and backup space, etc.
You don't have to get everything right away, but may want to lay out a plan, prioritize what you have to get now and what you'd like to add later based upon your needs. Don't worry if your plans might change over time (they will!)... just lay out a plan now as a starting point.
Have fun shopping!
Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif., USA
"Walk softly and carry a big lens."
GEAR: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
FLICKR & PRINTROOM

You know that thread, where someone asks what lens to buy next...

This is one of those threads.
Some of you are aware of my photography journey from my last few posts.
At this point, my wife's photography needs are satisfied with the new SL1 and 18-55mm STM lens. It is a massive improvement over the older XTi w/ 17-40 4L. This also involved adding new manual speedlites.
As a result of this, the next lens will be more for me than my wife's business needs.
Originally, the next lens was to be a 60mm macro, but I have been having good enough results for now using close-up diopter with the kit lens at 55mm.
My goals are:
- A lens that "replaces" the 18-55mm for me so that my wife can use that lens full time without me needing to borrow it so often.
- An inexpensive lens with a good zoom range to experiment with before buying more expensive primes or L.
Already have these other lenses:
- (as already mentioned) the 18-55mm STM lens that my wife uses with SL1
- the original 18-55mm that came with the original EOS Digital Rebel (sometimes shows errors on the Xti when taking shots rapidly)
- 17-40mm EF 4L
I will probably use the old XTi some of the time and borrow the SL1 when she isn't doing business, etc. At least until I break down and buy my own dedicated camera.
I was thinking of either
- 18-135mm STM (total replacement for all the kit lenses for me, no need to use the old 18-55 or ever borrow my wife's lens)
- 55-250mm STM (can use the 17-40 or my older 18-55 for wide angle)
I am leaning towards the 55-250mm for two reasons:
- I already have several lenses with wider angles to choose from when those situations arise.
- the 55-250mm is pretty cheap at $300ish
Thoughts?

If you can find a "real" camera store, you might want to try out a 55-250mm.
I had the non-STM version of that lens was never very happy with it. The STM gets much better reviews and image-quality for the price is supposed to be very good (again... I have not personally tried the STM version.)
Avoid the 75-300mm USM -- that lens has the reputation for being one of the most marginal lenses (both in build quality and image quality) in the line-up.
The 70-300mm USM is MUCH MUCH better (but I think the retail price on that lens is closer to $650 -- so you'd expect it to be better, and it is.)
I will say that I gave away my 55-250 to a relative (again, not the STM version) for two reaons. #1 I was not thrilled with the image quality and, #2 I found myself using the 55-250mm range FAR less often than I would have imagined.
Oddly, I own the EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM (the original -- I bought my copy new, but before Canon introduced the II generation of that lens.) I use that lens quite often. But I'm not using it to shoot subjects at a distance, I'm using it because it has a fantastic look. I'll take a portrait that I could have taken with a shorter lens, but the image looks much better when I use the 70-200 f/2.8 (although I'm usually using it nearer to f/4) and stand farther away to get approximately the same frame. The compression and quality of the out-of-focus background has a great look to it. So I could use it as a sports lens (and a lot of people do), but I actually tend to use more like a portrait lens.
Tim Campbell
5D II, 5D III, 60Da

What's the best Telephoto Zoom lens for canon rebel T3??

Hi, i have a canon rebel t3 and i want a telephoto lens , but i don't know which lens to take between Canon EF 75-300mm f/4-5.6 III USM and Canon EF-S IS 55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS II, I generally like to shoot street, abstract and nature photos and I'm not sure which lens is going to be more suitable to my needs...

Vasanthkumar and Sami:
There are actually 3 lenses that are pretty similar in range and price: the 55-250, the 70-300 and the 75-300. Of the 3, the 75-300 is rated poorest quality.
Here is a tool that lets you compare image quality between 2 lenses. You can even see them at different lengths and at different apertures.
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx
And here are reviews of all 3 lenses:
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EF-70-300mm-f-4-5.6-IS-USM-Lens-Review.aspx
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EF-75-300mm-f-4-5.6-III-USM-Lens-Review.aspx
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EF-S-55-250mm-f-4-5.6-IS-Lens-Review.aspx
Among the 3, I would choose the 70-300 IS. It has Image Stabilization, and for the price it really has good image quality.
My 2nd choice would be the 55-250 IS. Same reasons as above. I actually owned this lens for a while, and it was indeed capable of taking a sharp picture.
I personally would not go with the 75-300. No IS, for one thing. More importantly, it is not very sharp according to reviews. The small price savings vs. the 2 better lenses would not be worth it to me if all my photos suffered noticably.
To quote the review above on this lens, "If you care about great image quality and sharp photos, the Canon EF 75-300mm f/4-5.6 III USM Lens is not for you. And Photoshop cannot enhance details that are not there."
Good luck!
Scott
Canon 6D, Canon T3i, EF 70-200mm L f/2.8 IS mk2; EF 24-105 f/4 L; EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS; EF 85mm f/1.8; Sigma 35mm f/1.4 "Art"; EF 1.4x extender mk. 3; 3x Phottix Mitros+ speedlites
Why do so many people say "fer-tographer"? Do they take "fertographs"?

Canon EOS rebel T3i. Zoom lens

My partner has a new camera. She Is a beginner she wants. Zoom lens. What do you. Suggest.?

Canon makes quite a range of zooms.
There are a few general purpose zooms -- no extravagent features that drive up the price tag -- and these usually have ranges up to about 200 or 300mm focal length. They tend to not be too expensive (e.g. $300 give or take.)
But there are some uses for which these general-purpose zooms are not ideal and I'd like to make sure that's not what she needs.
While most people tend to use zoom lenses outdoors... will this lens be used for either (a) indoor sports games (e.g. basketball) or (b) outdoor games played at night under lights?
Action photography either indoors or under artificial lighting (e.g. sports games that are not playing during the day) struggle with (a) having enough light to use shutter speeds adequate to freeze action and (b) performance of the auto-focus motors which may not keep up.
A general purpose zoom will have a variable focal ratio ranging from f/4 to f/5.6 (when zoomed all the way in, it's almost always f/5.6). A high-end zoom will be able to provide a constant focal ratio of f/2.8 -- that literally collects FOUR times more light when an f/5.6 lens... so if a consumer grade zoom is trying to shoot... say an indoor basketball game and struggling with the light to use any shutter speed faster than 1/250th sec (not fast enough to freeze action)... the f/2.8 zoom in that same lighting would let you take that shot at 1/1000th sec (easily fast enough to freeze action).
With this in mind, I'll toss out a few options:
1) Canon EF-S 55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS STM and note that I bolded the letters "STM". The STM lens is a redesign and refinement of Canon's previous EF-S 55-250mm lens which did not have the STM stepper-motor technology. The stepper-motors are virtually silent, but they are much faster than the regular focusing motors. Also, the optics of the lens have been refined and the STM version of the lens scores noticeably better for contrast and resolution (ability to resolve fine amounts of detail). This lens lists for about $350. It's a great general-purpose zoom. It would do fine with outdoor daytime shooting.
2) Canon EF 70-300mm f/4-5.6 IS USM and note that I bolded the number "70". Canon makes a 75-300mm zoom. That lens receives perhaps the most mediocre reviews of any lens Canon makes and is probably the least recommended lens in the lineup. The 70-300mm, on the other hand, is a MUCH better lens both optically and performance-wise.
3) Canon makes several different white "L" series lenses with the 70-200mm zoom range. The lens cames in either f/2.8 focal ratio versions (much more expensive) or in the f/4 version (less expensive) and there are versions with IS (image stabilization) and without. The EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM II is the best of the lot by far... but also costs over $2k. Going to the f/4 version (only collects half as much light as an f/2.8 lens, but twice as much as an f/5.6 lens -- so you're in the middle) drops the price, and getting the version that does not have image stabilization drops the price even more. Also, f/2.8 lenses are heavy -- so you reduce weight with an f/4 lens. The EF 70-200mm f/4L USM (note there's no "IS" on this version) lists for about $700.
4) Going back to the economically priced lenses... the EF-S 55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS II is the least expensive lens I would suggest. It lists for $300 (all these prices are list -- shop around). This is similar to the first lens I mentioned, except it doesn't have STM motors. Focus will be slower. Most of the time that's not an issue, but if shooting action photography where the focus distance is changing rapidly... it would be an issue (e.g. sports games where the athlete is running toward you, for example.) Also, the optics on this lens are not as refined as the optics on the STM version. And then there is one feature which you might think is a nit, but it drives me nuts... I tend to use a polarizing filter when shooting outdoors to cut reflections and enhance color. This version of the lens rotates as it focuses (the others do not). That means that each time the focus changes, the polarizer would rotate and I'd have to reach forward and re-tune the polarizer (polarizing filters are rotated to tune them.) This lens is about $50 less than the STM version... I personally think having internal focus (focusing element is at the rear, not the front), a much faster focusing motor, and refined optics are all easily worth the $50 extra.
There is an EF 75-300mm f/4-5.6 lens (not that it's "75-300" and not "70-300") which does not get very flattering reviews but is only $200.
If you win the lottery, you want the EF 200-400mm f/4L IS USM Extender 1.4x... at only $11,799! If you do win the lottery, buy 2 and send one to me! ;-)
Tim Campbell
5D II, 5D III, 60Da

Zoom lens T3i

what is the best zoom lens for T3i that doesnt cost a fortune

You might want to head over to the-digital-picture.com and read some of the reviews. Also keep in mind that if you want to test a lens, you can always rent the lenses you are considering before deciding which one to purchase.
All lenses have trade-offs -- which is why the camera allows you to swap lenses (you can swap to the lens which is best for your needs.)
"Zoom" simply means you can change the focal length within a range.
There are "wide angle zooms" (like the EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5) which has a range from wide to very wide.
There are standard zooms (like the EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 which likely came with your camera if you bought the camera as a body + lens kit) which provides a little room in the wide angle plus a bit of telephoto focal length.
And then there are the telephoto-zooms (which go from moderately enlarged telephoto image to a more strongly enlarged telephoto image.)
I'm going to assume you probably want a "telephoto zoom".
A very common companion zoom lens in the consumer price range (priced to not break the bank) is the EF-S 55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS. I owned this lens and actually gave my copy away to a nephew -- I was never nuts about it. Mostly I found the contrast disappointing and the "sharpness" (detail resolving) was a bit soft & mushy. But some people really like the lens.
The EF 75-300mm (and there are a few) does not have an impressive reputation.. it's perhaps the least favorite lens in the lineup. The EF-S 55-250mm is a little better.
The EF 70-300mm f/4-5.6 IS USM has a fairly good reputation... it's a mid-range lens which means it's more expensive than the entry-level zooms.
That EF-S 55-250 has been updated to an "STM" version. STM is Canon's new "STepper Motor" technology. You can think of it as a "focus by wire" lens in that there is actually no mechanical linkage between the focus ring and the movement of the focusing elements inside the lens. Turning the focus ring simply sends input to the computer electronics -- and the electronics interpret and focus the lens.
But the lens has a few very positive things going for it:
The "MTF" scores for the lens are extremely good -- meaning that the contrast and resolution (accutance) of the lens seems to be greatly improved over it's predecessor.
The STM lenses are EXTREMELY quiet -- so quiet that it's hard to tell that the focus motor is even working. It was deliberately designed so that when shooting video, the internal mic on the camera would not be able to pick up the audio noise of the lens focus motor (on some lenses it can barely pick up the sound, but it is extremely quiet).
Lastly, the STM motors are not quite as fast at focusing as the USM motors, but they are much faster than the basic motors. So the STM version of the 55-250 will be a faster/snappier focusing lens than the non-STM version (which is a big plus if you are shooting action photography with rapidly changing focus distances.)
The list price on the STM version of the lens is only about $50 more than the non-STM version (about $299 vs $349 -- that's Canon list price... you may find retail stores selling it for slightly less.)
You can read a review of that lens here: http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EF-S-55-250mm-f-4-5.6-IS-STM-Lens.aspx
I skipped comments on any of the "L" series lenses because they tend to be the most expensive lenses in the lineup (but offer the highest quality features -- not just in optics, but other features of the lens as well.)
I would probably take a very serious look at (in order of preference - best being first):
EF 70-300mm f/4-5.6 IS USM (on the spendier side so that may be out of your range)
EF-S 55-250mm f/4-4.5 IS STM (note the emphasis on "STM" and not the non-STM version)
EF-S 55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS II (not as good as the STM version but it will shave a few dollars off the price tag.)
EF 75-300mm f/4-5.6 III USM (in last place -- a mediocre quality lens, but it is the least expensive of all.)
Tim Campbell
5D II, 5D III, 60Da

Will the T4i help me take better sports photos then the PS SX40 HS??

I currently have a PowerShot SX40 HS and I want to upgrade to be able to take better sports shots and actually freeze the action. The sports include Baseball / Football and some indoor Basketball. This is the main reason I want to upgrade (For action shots)!! I am currently looking at the Canon T4i and a couple IS lenses (18-55 & 55-250) both IS II. The lenses come with the camera. Would I be able to freeze the action better with the T4i? I don't want to spend the money if is not going to do what I want. Not looking for SI quality shots but just some I can say "Check that out". Would an STM lens be much better? I think an STM lens is better for video. Not really looking to shoot video - mainly stills. Well Action shots!! I did play around with all of the features on my SX40 so I am somewhat familiar with ISO / Aperature and F-stop. Any suggestions on a I dare say to say "Entry Level DSLR" for my needs. My maz spending is 1k. Would a 250mm bring it up close if I am sitting in the stands?
Thank you all for your time.
Briguy

Better, yes. But better enough to warrant the cost, that I can't answer.
Keep in mind that what you are asking for (freezing action and getting it up close from the stands) is a lot. Arguably too much. But that depends on your definition of acceptable. In order for me to get a shot that I consider great, from the stands, would require a very, very expensive lens. But if there’s one thing that I’ve learned from being a photographer – the average person doesn’t look at a photo the same way a photographer does.
Lets deal with the easy stuff first: a dSLR is much faster than a point and shoot. Modern P&S have gotten much faster, some are quite fast, but their autofocus is still slow, and there’s no point in having 10 pics of an out of focus subject. dSLR can take multiple shots a second, and they can even re-focus in-between shots. Additionally, the shutter lag – time between pushing the button and the shutter dropping, is quicker (though some P&S have gotten really fast). All these advantages make dSLRs much better equipped for sports.
Freezing action requires a fast shutter speed. Easy for just about any camera in good light, but as light fades you’ll start to see the difference between P&S and dSLR. The sensor in a dSLR is much bigger than most P&S, so it can collect more light, which means it can use a faster shutter speed (in a sense). But this can only take you so far, to really reap the benefits of a dSLR you need good lenses. More specifically, you need lenses with a wide aperture to let in a lot of light. Again, outside in the sun it’s not such an issue, but freezing action of indoor sports is pushing the limits, and it really can’t be done well (subjective) without a good lens and preferably a good camera. Will a Rebel with a 55-250 kit lens perform better than a P&S with indoor sports? Yes. Will it provide acceptable results for you? I can’t answer that. I will say that getting a Rebel with the two kit lenses is a big step up and I think you could have a lot of fun, and learn a lot about photography with that setup.
One last comment: you’re correct, STM is primarily for video. I would try to find a refurbished version of the previous version of the 55-250 and save a bit of cash.

Questions re: upgrading to T5i from Powershot SX40

I currently have a Canon Powershot SX40 and have taken thousands of photos with it. While the results are good, I want them better. I have been taking some photography classes and reading articles online to try and get the most out of my current camera. I typically shoot in P mode and not Auto. I have been researching Canon DSLR cameras and think I have settled on the T5i which has good features and in my budget. However, I am torn between these two options: Getting the T5i with the 18-55 STM lens in a kit with the EF-S 55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS II lens, or for the same price, getting the T5i with the 18-135 STM lens only (which is close to the range of the lens on the SX40). I shoot a lot of nature and landscape photography, so want to be able to zoom in from a distance. Otherwise, I am shooting family photos at a close range (a few feet at most). I also do a lot of macro photography. I would appreciate some recommendations on the best option for me to start with.
Also, one concern I have is shooting in damp or wet weather. We were just on a Rhine River Cruise, and most days were damp with drizzly rain. I still shot a lot of photos and just did my best to try and keep my camera wiped off and dry. Would the T5i be more sensitive in this kind of weather than my SX40? If I'm on a trip and the weather is wet, I don't want that to keep me from taking photos. What do those of you with the T5i (or similar) do in damp weather?
Thank you.

Even the 60D and 70D have weather sealing.
I always throw out some cautions about this... weather sealing involves using gaskets and o-rings on all body seams and dials. The seals do not protect against "pressure" -- the moment a camera is submerged it is subject to "pressure" and the seals _will_ leak. A weather-sealed camera body would handle light rain, drizzle, snow, etc. I would probably not expose it to severe weather (e.g. in the hard driving rain of, say, a hurricane... water gets driven through cracks and into amazing spaces where you'd think water leaks wouldn't normally be a problem -- bottom line is that it's protection is "pretty good" but not intended to be comprehensive for all situations. Use reasonable caution.
Also... just because a body might be weather sealed, doesn't mean the lens is weather sealed. Some lenses are (most but not all "L" series lenses are sealed and even with those you have to read the docs for each lens... some will indicate that a protective filter is needed on the front such as a clear or UV filter to "complete" the weather seal.
You would not want to open the camera while exposed to weather. If you need to swap batteries, memory cards, or lenses, get it out of the weather and towel off the body first to remove moisture.
There are many camera rain-jackets and rain-sleeves on the market that can provide good protection. These usually have elastic to go around the lens or lens hood, cover the body in plastic (or a waterproof fabric) with holes in the back through which you can insert your hands to hold and control the camera. Some of these are _very_ inexpensive (intended as disposables) and others are quite rugged/durable and intended for multi-use (but more expensive.)
A waterproof housing is, of course, truely "water proof" (even to substantial pressure and depth)... but real water proof housings are fairly expensive and usually cost more than the camera body itself.
Tim Campbell
5D II, 5D III, 60Da

Need recommendation on my next camera/lens buy.

Hello,
To start with this what i own right now from past 2 years:
Canon 550D with
EF-s 18-55mm f3.5-5.6 IS STM and
EF-s 55-250mm f4-5.6 IS STM
I've saved up around $3500 and am looking for my next investment in the camera/lenses. I'm mainly into wedding and macro photography, and ocasionaly do sports and wildlife. Till now I was using this with some accessories like wireless remote triger and a tripod to get my work. But its time for a upgrade i guess. I would like to stick with canon as a camera brand but am open for non-canon lenses. Please put in your suggestions for me.
Thanks.
Solved!
Go to Solution.

Weddngs are primarily dark and benefit from cameras that can handle high ISO with low noise. Sports and wildlife action photography benefit from cameras with good focus and focus tracking and a fast continuous shooting speed.
The single camera that's good at all of that is the 5D III... but the "body only" version of a 5D III is $3400 and it CANNOT use your current EF-S lenses (EF-S lenses only work on APS-C crop-frame size sensor cameras -- full frame cameras require "EF" lenses (without the "-S" suffix.))
That's a bit over your budget... (especially since you'd still need some new glass) but it would be an ideal body.
The 6D is considerably less expensive, excellent at low light, but the focus and shooting system aren't optimized for action photography (it would not be much different than your 550D in that regard... that camera's forcus and shooting speed aren't optimized for action photography either.)
The 7D and 70D *are* good action photography, but will give you very little improvement in low-light over your current camera -- mostly they offer a big improvement in focus system and shooting speed.
Tim Campbell
5D II, 5D III, 60Da

Upgrade Rebel question

I have the Rebel XTi and am ready to upgrade - looks like the T4i and T5i are comparable, and I know that I need to get STM lens for video performance. My question is in choosing which kit lens 18-55 or 18-135 (both IS STM)? I already have a Canon 50-250mm telephoto lens (and 50mm fixed focal length lens). Is it worth paying more for the 18-135, are there any quality differences in normal shooting , or would I be fine with the 18-55 since I already have telephoto lens (and I don't think I will need to shoot video with the extra zoom)? I also wasn't sure about the extra length of the 18-135 and if it was a bit long and bulky for an every day carry around lens. Thx

The "STM" versions of the lenses have "inner focusing" which means the end of the lens does not physically rotate as the lens focuses. This was also true of the 18-135 non-STM version... but the 18-55 non-STM actually rotates as you focus. If you have special effects filters or a polarizer, it means the filter would be rotating when the lens focuses and that can drive you nuts.
But as both 18-55 and 18-135 "STM" versions use inner-focusing, the only significant difference is the zoom range. 18-55 isn't a very substantial range... it's a mild wide-angle to a very mild zoom... whereas the 18-135 has a more useful everyday "walking around" zoom range. It's a fairly nice lens. It's not particularly large and it's fairly light.
The EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM is a fantastic lens in terms of quality and it's ability to work in low light as well as it's ability to produce a nice shallow depth of field for more dramatic out-of-focus blur.... but it's NOT an "STM" lens (so it does not have the silent focus motors and they aren't stepper motors.) That means focus is fast and snappy and can't be slowed to a gradual speed (great if you're shooting action... but not as much control for video). Part of the value of STM lenses is that the motor can operate so silently that the internal mic cannot pickup the sound of the focus motor. Although... if you're REALLY into video, get an external mic -- the Rode VideoMics are _very_ popular. The primary value is that they have dramatically better audio quality, they're also substantially more directional (so the mic picks up the subject you're filming and not you or anyone else behind the camera)... but also since it's an external mic (even if it's mounted in the flash hot-shoe) it wont be able to pick up on the noise of the lens focus motor.
The EF-S 55-250 does not have inner-focusing... the end of the lens will rotate as you focus. If you use a polarizing filer (and for your camera it would need to be a "circular" polarizing filter) then the polarization tuning would change as you focus and you'd constantly be reaching forward to re-tune the filter polarization angle.
Tim Campbell
5D II, 5D III, 60Da

What exactly is the difference between these two lenses?

CanonEF-S 55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS STM Lens
CanonEF-S 55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS II Lens
I'm stuck between a rock, and not sure what my best option would be...any help is greatly appreciated!!!

The difference is in the type of motor used to focus the lens. The focus motor in STM lenses are more or less silent to the camera's audio system. This is important when shooting video but not for still photography. This may help.
http://photo.stackexchange.com/questions/24109/what-does-stm-mean-on-a-canon-lens
"A skill is developed through constant practice with a passion to improve, not bought."

Combination zoom lens as alternative to 18-55mm & 55-250mm lenses for my T3i?

I have a T3i with 18-55mm and 55-250mm lenses. Switching lenses while sightseeing is a nuisance. The shorter one is needed for close photos of museums, galleries, close up sites, ourselves and our friends, etc. Longer lenses are useful for many outdoor city and rural/mountain shots. Is there a reasonably priced combination zoom lens I should be considering? Is there somewhere I can sell my current lenses. My T3i and lenses are less than a year old. Thanks.
Solved!
Go to Solution.

Most photographers say to buy the best "glass" (lens) you can afford because they will last a lifetime. Good lenses are not cheap, so my advise would be to keep what you have right now, and learn all you can about them and the aspects of taking photos. While you are learning you can investigate the different lenses, determine what type of photography you are really wanting to take, and so have a better idea of what you NEED in a lens. Hope thgis helped a little.

55-250mm Telephoto Zoom Lens help

I can not get a sharp image with this lens no matter what I do.
please can someone help me.
I tried taking pictures of some birds this morning and they are not sharp at all.
I used a tripod too.
thanks.Tina

We would probably need to see your image (along with the embedded EXIF data so we can see the camera settings that were used for it.)
But I'll offer a few general tips...
The default shooting mode of most bodies is to use "One Shot" mode. Canon bodies have a "One shot" mode, an "AI Servo" mode, and then a special mode called "AI Focus" which really just means the camera evalutes whether it should use One Shot vs. AI Servo mode on the fly.
In "One Shot" mode, the camera uses "Focus Priority" and does NOT focus continuously for moving subjects. Once it locks focus on something it's ready to shoot but it will not adjust the focus for a moving object. This means that at some point your subject was in focus... but has since moved from that position. You can fix this by switching to AI Servo mode.
In "AI Servo" mode, the camera WILL focus continuously... as your subject moves, the camera will continue to adjust focus... but the camera also uses "release priority" when in AI Servo mode. So whereas in One Shot mode (which uses "focus priority"), if you press the button all the way, the camera will not actually take the shot until it can lock focus first (which is why some people think their camera is malfunctioning when it wont take a photo in a very dark room -- because it can't lock focus) -- in "AI Servo" mode (which uses "release priority") the camera WILL take the shot when you fully press the button and it will do this whether it has had time to focus or not (so that's an important detail to remember). Half press to get the camera to lock focus and keep tracking your subject with your focus point (and it will continuously focus)... then fully press the button to take the shot .
The EF-S 55-250mm lens does not have particularly fast focusing motors... the STM lenses are faster and the USM lenses are the fastest. Action photographers will specifically seek lenses with fast focusing motors... without a fast motor, sometimes it may not be possible for a lens to track focus adequately -- however Canon does use "predictive" focus when tracking an object whose distance to your camera is changing at a uniform rate.
Also... you'll want to give yourself a nice broad depth of field so that a small amount of focus error wont really impact the final outcome. It will be easier to keep things in acceptable focus at f/11 (or even f/16) than it is when you're using a lower f-stop such as f/4 or f/5.6.
BTW, Canon does not recommend just leaving the camera in AI Servo mode. It turns out there are some nuances of the way this works which can trick the camera into thinking there was movement and altering focus when taking a non-action shot... resulting in missed focus. Use "One Shot" when shooting non-action. Use "AI Servo" when shooting action. I don't actually recommend "AI Focus" (that's the mode that auto-decides if it's an action shot or not) BECAUES there's a slight delay while the camera evaluates which mode to use and that can cause you to miss the "decisive moment" to grab the shot.
Hope this helps... I'll try to find the YouTube videos that Canon has which explain how your auto-focus system works. It is quite informative and tells you more about how your camera "thinks" when it comes to focus.
Tim Campbell
5D II, 5D III, 60Da

Sigma 18-250mm f3.5-6.3 DC MACRO OS HSM

Sigma released a new lens this month (July 2012)
Sigma 18-250mm f3.5-6.3 DC MACRO OS HSM (not to be confused with the "Sigma 18-250mm f3.5-6.3 DC OS HSM" )
So I was wondering when you might update the "Lens Corrections" Profile to reflect the new lens.
Thanks in advance

Thanks McLion for taking the time to answer my question. I was just worried that the similarity in the lens names might be cause for them to overlook the new lens, which is lighter and smaller than it's older brother.

Lens Detection - SIGMA 18-250mm F3.5-6,3 DC Makro OS HSM

Hi Guys
I recently purchased the lens mentioned above as a universal and travel lens.
I did some shots to day and imported them into LR4.
By Default I always do lens correction when importing but LR4 detects this lens as "18-150" only, no make, no model.
I first thought: "damned, again this problem, I had it with that stupid Tamron lens" .... but the I did an import with the same raw (CR2) pictures in Apple Aperture and I get the correct lens data here:
Am I doing something wrong?
Thanks for your help.
andre

Was some kind of a preset (called "Lens Correction") applied at the tiime of import? That is what the first line in the History suggests to me.
However, just because it was called that, does not mean that it has succeeded in correcting the image. Perhaps it was intended to turn on profiled corrections but did not, or perhaps those were turned off subsequently somehow (paste settings, sync, auto-sync, another preset, something of those kinds).
If you want to see the outcome of using that preset at that time. (as opposed to, what happened to the image subsequently) then you can click on that topmost stage in the image History, and see what the various image settings then show. (Important: don't actually adjust anything at all until you have clicked back "forward" again to the lowest entry in the History, or else you will lose all these subsequent History steps.)
When lens profile correction is turned on (either by your LR defaults, as customised by the user, or else by a preset, or else manually) then in order for this profile to be applied to the image, firstly the lens used has to be recognised and associated with a particular profile.
Even if no usable profile is found, though, for a given image - whether manually selected Custom, Auto, or Default (which also pays attention to the user's customised assignments) - the state of this Enable checkbox should persist anyway, AFAIK.
If that was formerly on and then turned off, this will be evident somewhere in the image's full History - provided that survives.
I suppose that if the earliest History of your image pre-dates the introduction of the profiled lens corrections feature, the "Lens Correction" reference may relate to pure manual lens corrections. I used, long ago, to run a series of presets each directly applying barrel, vignetting and CA adjustments which I had "eyeballed" and then saved against one of my lenses. With later versions of LR, it is enough to turn on profiled correction generally, then each image will get whatever is the needed profile applied.
So I now need only one import preset to do that, instead of several antique lens-specific ones (I find it better to do it this way, than through LR processing defaults). But that antique metadata wqould not provide for the enabling of any profile - since such things were not yet heard of at the time - and profiles are not automatically turned on when you bring images up to a newer process version. You would have to actively make that happen - cancelling those earlier manual corrections.
hth - RP

EF-S 55-250mm F4-5.6 IS STM Lens

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for