Eliminate zoom for still photos

I am making a movie with stills and music. Each photo zooms in. Can I stop the zoom?

Hi
YES - Ken-Burns Effect can be most annoying. I also wished that I was asked to turn it on when needed - Not being forced to turn it off - ALWAYS - as I never use it. (A 100% irritation factor)
• Select all photo clips in Project.
• Click on the small double L-shaped black symbol in one of them
then select Adjust (Anpassa) - followed by Done (Klar)
Usually this takes effect on all selected Photos.
Yours Bengt W

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How do I create motion for still photos/pictures. I'd like to pan/scan & zoom. Please help!

How do I create motion for still photos/pictures. I'd like to pan/scan & zoom. Please help!

You kind of answered your own question..
Check out Motion in the FX Control Window and learn how keyframing works..

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That's what I was afraid of! I wish it would still scale photos to fill the window also if they're smaller than the window size (not just 100%), like it used to in older versions of iPhoto. Especially irritating, since the problem photos are from an Apple product, the front facing camera of the iPhone4s. I already added my complaint to "feedback".
Thanks anyway.

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I am an IT consultant who has one professional photographer as a client, and she needs a new workstation for still-photo editing using Photoshop CC. I asked her to ask her professional community about the best video card to use, and I got back "I need a video card with mercury graphics engine, over 1 gig. of ram (the more the better)." I have read about Quadro cards until my eyes bled, and I think they may not be the best suited for still-photo editing, at least from the perspective of performance vs. cost.
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I'm no expert, but I built a PC about a year ago and did a lot of research into this. I found a lot of conflicting opinions on it, but most of the actual data I looked at suggested that I wasn't going to see a significant boost in performance, for still photography, by adding a GPU (over a good Intel chip). The integrated graphics performed surprisingly well in the benchmarks versus all but the top of the line GPUs. So I concluded that unless I was prepared to spend $500 on a GPU I'd stick with the integrated, and I could always upgrade later. Never felt the need to upgrade. Everyone uses Photoshop differently, and your client may have use for it. But I think a lot of people buy the most expensive machine they can afford even when it's overkill. I'd consider myself a moderately heavy PS user; I like to do big composites (60+ layers) and I do architectural work that sometimes has dozens of frames from a full frame camera. I don't do video, nor use the niche filters like oil that were heavy on GPUs. But I use a lot of layers, and am somewhat heavy with actions and batching. YMMV.
But, a caveat: I use CS6, which doesn't have many GPU accelerated features that I use. It looks like that is changing with CC, and hopefully more so in the future. So perhaps it would be prudent for you to put one in. Truthfully I don't think there's much a difference between brands so long as they're on the compatibility list.
I also did a lot of research into RAM, because Windows 7 caps at 16 gb for the basic version. At the end of the day I convinced myself that 16 would be sufficient, and I've kept an eye on my useage in photoshop and found that it has. I don't do video work, but my projects are usually pretty large (2 gb+). Everybody has different uses
Sorry to drone on: But I also looked into the traditional 4 disc setup recommend for image processors. I couldn't get a concrete answer on whether this setup still makes a significant performance increase when using SSDs. I ended up just getting an SSD for programs, OS, and working files. Then a huge slow HDD (5600 RPM) for storage. Plus backups. I since upgraded the hard drive and used my old one for scratch - really just to take the "wear and tear" off my main drive.

Acceptable File Size and Resolution for Still Photos in Keyframe Motion

Hello Hello
I know that FCE HD (as other Video Editors), will automatically fit a still photo's size to it's default capability of 720 x 480 Correct?
Well, in regard to making the best possible ZOOMS, and Pans from Still Photos, is it neccessary to re-size all your photos (from an external editor like photoshop), to a specfic size?
According to an older book for FCE, it sez that actually photos re-sized to 720x534 with a resolution of 72 are best. *The proper proportion for NTSC.
And I noticed that when I inserted larger JPG still sizes (like about a meg), on the FCE timline, and when applying Panning, or Zooms, some of the rendered images with motion didn't pan or zoom smoothly.
Is that because those file sizes were TOO large?
Well I have soooo many stills that need to be imported into this particular project that it would be a lot easier for me to just generally reduce these stills (by percentage).
And is the magic resolution amount supposed to be 72?
Because if that's the case I can re-size all my photos to 72, and try to keep the file sizes down to say 300 KB's or so.
Sound like a plan?

Thank you guys
"basically, you should try to make your images large enough so they never have to be scaled beyond 100% in the motion tab in fcp."
Actually as I mentioned some of these file sizes are very large. About 800-900 KB's - and what as a result, what I've noticed is that I actually had to DECREASE the viewing area in both the Browser Window, and the Canvas Winbow just to be able to see the whole image.
Ok - so the 72 DPI is not as important as the dimensions of the photo. But as I said I have soooooo many of these that it would take me forever to manually re-size them all not to mention the fact that re-sizing some of them (odd shapes),would throw the images out of balance.
So again I ask - if there is NO motion applied to the photo, file sizes of about 200 to 350 KB's appear just beautifully ....
BUT
If I need to PAN or ZOOM, is it ok to laod a 1 MEG sized JPG onto the timeline and start working with Keyframe?????
In fact in some cases I'm actually using these larger file JPS's (1 meg or more), so that they TOTALLLY fit the canvas window (cropping them by enlargment)
*With some clipping of the original image of course ...
Why do I do this?
So that you don't see the usual border with horizontal images, or vertical images - know what I mean?
Thanx

Premier Elements. Rcommendation for still photo resolution/size

I have a Panasonic composite camera. It shoots HVCHD lite. It also takes 16:9 (3968*2232 9Meg) still photos. I wish to produce a composite DVD in Pal format suitable for a wide screen TV. What resolution and size is recommended for the still shots? I am using Windows XP with Powertoy image resizer. Or is it more convenient to use the Oraganizer in Elements to resize the photos? Tony

For my thoughts on still images, you might want to see this THREAD. In your case, you'd substitute my 720x480 PAR 0.9 for your HD Project's framesize. If you need to do any panning on images that will be fully zoomed out, I'd not go any larger than you will need to accomplish this. Some Projects require that I use several different Actions in Photoshop, if I will do much panning on the zoomed out images. Since I do not do any automatic pan/zoom Effects, but create each by hand, as each image is unique, I can tailor the resizing to exactly what I will need. If you let your program do these Effects automatically, then just give a bit more wiggle room and your good to go. Having overly large stills in your Project costs you, both in processing power and also quality - PS's resizing algorithms are better than Premiere's and doing this outside of the NLE is much more efficient.
Good luck,
Hunt

Problems setting duration for still photos and transitions in iMovie '11

I downloaded iMovie 11 from the Apps Store last night and am trying to make my first movie with it today. I use still photos exclusively.
For most - but not all - I like 5 seconds for photos and for transitions 2 seconds. I do vary this on occasion and so do not check "for all photos' or "for all transitions".
I can't get these settings to work with this version of iMovie. For example, I added a photo (5 sec) then a transition (2 sec) which changed the duration time of the photo - as it should. But when I double clicked the photo, to bring up the inspector window to change the duration of the photo, nothing happened. Then I added another photo. The duration of the first photo increased to 7 seconds and nothing I do seemed to change that.
The time increases seem random: for example, sometimes the time on the still photo increases to 6:29 sec, sometimes to 7 sec.
The duration for the transitions always remains the same - 2 sec; it's the time for the photos that jumps around. And I haven't been able to find a way to get back to 5 sec.
Before posting this, I researched and found an number of earlier posts detailing the same issues.
However, none of these posts had stars to indicate the problem was solved.
Has anyone found a solution or is this a bug that should be reported to Apple?

Interesting!!
I've spent a lot of hours on this too, but I have come up with a different solution perhaps because I like to vary both the image duration and the transition duration in my movies.
Here's my process:
-> Knowing that (a) I want most of the photos to be visible for 5 seconds and most transitions for 2 seconds and (b) that a transition takes half from the photo before and half from the photo after, under File>Project Properties>Photo Duration I chose 7 seconds - each photo will 'lose' a total of 2 seconds from the transitions in front and behind. I did not check either "Applies to all transitions." or "Applies to all photos." - See below for why.
-> I discovered, as you have, that all the photos have to go in before I add any transitions. This was new to me. With all previous versions of iMovie I simply added a photo then a transition then another photo one at a time. I had to fiddle with the timing adjustments, but at least I could fiddle. With this new version of iMovie I can't. Once the transition is in place, I cannot change the duration of the photo.
-> Sometimes, I want a longer or shorter duration for a photo. For example, on photos to which I apply the Ken Burns effect, I often want the image on the screen for a slightly longer time. In this case, I have to use the inspector to change the duration before I add the transitions. So I might set the time for 8 seconds; when both transitions are added, the time for this photo becomes 6 seconds, which is what I want.
-> The same applies if I want a transition to be shorter or longer than 2 seconds. If, for example, I want the duration for a transition to be 1 second, then I have to change the duration on the two linked photos to 5 1/2 seconds.
All of this requires much more prior planning than I am used to with iMovie. Right now, I working with batches of 5 or 6 photos at a time. I don't put a transition on the last photo in the batch until I have added the next group of photos. And things get really tricky if I don't like my original design. If I want to change anything, I have to take out all of the transitions linking the photos I want to work on, do the math, make the changes in the photo durations, then put the transitions back.
Perhaps I am trying to make iMovie do more than it was intended to do, I don't know. Perhaps this problem stems from the fact that I bought just iMovie 11 from the Mac Apps Store and not the entire iLife 11. Don't know that either. But at least I have found a way to make the movie look the way I want it to look.
Thanks for sharing your process. I will use it when the circumstances are right.

Resolution for Still Photos for film

Greetings,
I have a full length Digital Video film and want to add still photos to it. I have been using Photo to Movie software to add a Ken Burns effect to the photo, then exporting it under the movie format- DV(NTSC) 720x480, then importing that to the final cut time line. My question is what is the best resolution in the first place for the still photo before I do this process or is it okay to use the final render size from the Photo to Movie export? Or do you have a better idea.

I would suggest you to check your export preferences but it is my understanding that if you render the movie file, and then export, it you should be able to set the QT option for NTSC DV.

In December I purchased and registered a copy of PS Premier Elements 12 for my MAC. I sue program exclusively for still photos. When I go from Organizer to Editor, I get a message that I need to download Elements, register program or download trial versio

In December 13, I purchased & registered PS Premier Elements 12. I use only for still photography. The organizer works just perfectly. When I go to Editor to edit and/or print I get a message to register product and/or download trial. Have I purchased the wrong product or have I missed something ?

Premiere Elements is for video editing.

CS4 transitions - how to apply fade/zoom for memorial photo montage - please help

I'm considering doing a photo-only montage for a relative's memorial if I can figure out how to get the look I'm wanting. I want to apply a slow cross zoom AND a fade both, but it looks like I can only do one at a time. How do I apply both of these transitions at once? Or is there another way I can get the look I'm wanting? Any tips or links you may have that would help point me in the direction I'm wanting to go would be greatly, greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Thank you I think you've pointed me in the right direction. Please forgive me for my ignorance as I have just begun using this program. I don't have all the official terms down yet, such as "key frame", so I'll try to explain the best I can what I've done so far. On the timeline, I've got the yellow line on the image and I can click on a dot and drag one end of the line down so that it's diagonal, but it won't stretch across the following image. Is there any way to have the line stretch across all images and add those little dots (are those key frames?) wherever I please? I apologize if this made no sense whatsoever. I just want to fade out one picture and then fade in the following picture using this opacity effect you mentioned. Thank you very much for your time.

Final Cut Server for still photo database?

I know that FCS was intended to be use for video production database, but I have heard it could be applied to other database uses, such as a digital photo database. I haven't seen or heard of anyone doing this, but our unit is looking to replace our current database software (Cumulus) with a more user-friendly application. Our unit is a university support office with both video and digital still photography. Our current still image database is over 100,000 files. Has anyone used FCS for this type of database application?

We are currently using it as a Photo/Video database.
I've only put about 3000 images/clips in there so far
but it seems to be working well.
We are running it on a old Quad G5 and have some
custom conversions set up for adding images and
videos.
Our Web team can take our videos and in two clicks
have a WMV and FLV video for their sites and then
select a few images and do a quick convert to web
sized imges..all within FCS
It would be nice to see a open architecture with plugin support
and more file compatibility, but for now it works great
as a database for images and video.

Zoom for memorial photo montage

Thank you in advance for your help. Can someone send me some easy steps on how do I zoom in and out on photos in Premiere CS4?
example, the photo is 5 seconds long, I want to zoom in or out on him not just use the zoom from photo to photo.
I dear freinds 25 year old son passed away and I am under the gun to help them get this done for a funeral.
I have used the old premier but cant seem to find it here.
Thanks, Eric

Jim might know of some tutorial to look at...but just to show you quickly what it will look like...
1) use a photo that is no bigger than 4000 px X 4000 px.....
2) put on timeline
3) use CTI to determine start point for zoom and click "scale" under effect panel (sets keyframe) under motion /scale...
4) adjust scale from 100% to what you want...
5) move CTI to next point on timeline where effect will end
6) click scale again (sets keyframe)
7) adjust scale
done
image shows timeline and keyframes in effect panel where scale was adjusted
This link has the movie export made from this sample...called " zoom sample mov " ....for you to SEE what it does
http://rodneybauer.com/whiteboard3.htm

What is the best format to use for still photos in FCE that will produce the highest resolution?

Hello,
Can anyone recommend the best suggested format for photo stills in FCE that will provide the highest resolution and best quality output, to be broadcasted on a Standard Definition television network?
Thanks,
Susan Kayne

Personally, I prefer uncompressed TIFF or PNG. But many times it won't matter ... you'll be dropping the images into an SD Sequence, so they will lose resolution on output.
-DH

Pan & zoom for stills

Has anyone tried CoreMelt's ImageFlow Fx V2 in FCE? There are always a lot of questions about how best to handle slideshows in FCE without tedious keyframing. This plug-in looks like it would save a ton of time doing Ken Burns effects. US$129
http://www.coremelt.com/products/v2/imageflow-fx-v2.html
I also saw a free plug-in from Noise Industries - Fx Factory Freebie called Pan & Zoom 2.
http://www.noiseindustries.com/fxfactory/panandzoom/
Anyone have any experience with either of these options for photo slideshows?

Carolyn,
I use Lyric's Pan Zoom Pro. Works from within the FC Express Video Generator and is easy to use. Cost is $50. and worth every penny to me. You can download a demo version to try out.
http://www.lyric.com/fcp-plugins/index.htm#pzp
Michael

Titles for still photos

Is it possible to add a title to a photo without splitting the photo?

I suspect Hound dog doesn't really mean 'jump' and that he simply means he sees a short clip of the still image without a title, i.e. the title is shorter than still.
Hound Dog if this is the case you need to either make the title duration longer to match the duration of the still or vice-versa.
Personally I would go for making the still match the title duration as I've had occasions where once a title has been rendered it has been a couple of frames more or less than what I set it at.
So this is what I would do:
If I was aiming for a duration of 5 seconds, I would set the still duration to about 5s 5f and apply a title of 5s, if the title rendered at 5s all well and good, if not I'd use what I had and simply trash the portion of the still that had no title rendered onto it.
What you want to avoid is the duration of the title being longer than that of the still, which means it will over-run onto the next still and cause problems.
Hope that is what you wanted to know and if it is that it is clear enough.

Eliminate zoom for still photos

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