End of the season Discount

Hi SAP Gurus,
This is a real time Business Scenario. A new discount should be introduced: End of the Season This discount can be deducted from the Net value of a Product as well as a group of products. When this end of the season discount is executed, we are not allow to operate discount anymore. How can we customize it?
Thanks in Advance Reward guaranteed

hi]
create the condition records with validity periopds
where u can mention star date and end date
regards

Similar Messages

How to give the seasonal discounts in pricing procedure

Dear SD Gurus,
Can anybody guide me how to map the below scenario
A company wants to give the seasonal discount in a month.The first week it should give 3% discount on the purchase and the 2nd, 3rd,4th week should be 4%, 5%, 6% respectively.One more query that Do we have any option to give the discounts on hourly basis ? Pls clarify
Pls answer the query.

just maintain a discount condition type in your pricing procedure with the required validity dates as
1 st week -- 3 %
2 nd -- 4 %
3 rd - 5%
4 th - 6%
you cannot give disc on hourly basis.
thanks
sadhu kishore

Does the educational discount end?

Hi guys just a quick question, i am looking at buying a mac with the education discount for uni, but this past week i have been in The Hague, Netherlands, and the new mac store that has opened there said that i will need to be quick because the educational discounts ends soon?
Just wondering if someone could help clarify this because i have never heard of it ending, always thought it was all year round.
Thanks, Jake.

Jake, there are various forms of education discount offered by Apple. One form is for students to buy hardware for the beginning of the school term, and those usually have a time limit. Another is the discount offered to educators which remain available all year. So, the store employee was probably giving you correct information for the discount they were offering to students. You might try checking with the store manager to get the most accurate information on the term of the discount and see if there is an allowance for how long it takes to get the information from your university on computer needs. Seems reasonable to press that the two should be connected.

HT204088 I believe I got the short end of the stick due to the time I resolved the issue of a refund from Paypal and I lost the offer of an 25% discount on a $50 I-Tunes card, this have left me very anrgy with the issue.

The issue is above, Iwas to buy an I-Tunes card of $25.00,but then wanted a $50.00, but due to I not processed a refund that I believed to be automatically, I could not purchase the I-Tunes card, because of the delay of finding what was wrong with the purchase with Paypal because of an refund that was issued due to a book that I did not recieve for two month of $5.00 and by the time I resolved the issue the offer was to late and for this reason could not buy the $50.00 I-Tunes card and have decided not to buy any more I-tunes card at all, because I got the short end of the stick and I am very angry to the two companies.

Thank you so much for helping,
But i really wonder how you did that. did you always switch between design view and preview view, then change the key position for 2px then switch back, to align the four letters? because i imagine that can get really frustrating, if you have a logo consisting of 58 parts instead of 4!:)
Anyway thank you very much for your time and effort!!!!

Season Pass - Still active after the season is completed

Some time ago I purchased a pass for the first season of Breaking Bad.
After seven episodes the season was officially over.
However, the season pass remains active (it still is).
When I want to switch to a different iTunes store (different counry), iTunes tells me that it is not possible as long as I have active season passes.
Is a season pass supposed to expire/end automatically after the respective season is complete?
If it is supposed to be this way, how can I close/end my still active season pass.
Thank in advance for the help

Hi Girish,
My bad, forgot to put all the required info in the post. Sorry about that.
Database 10.2.0.2.0 - enterprise, Linux OS. I have enough SGA (64gb), PGA, undo, temp tablespace space.
The select is a "normal" read only select that needs to read millions of blocks from data files. The main table is partitioned and the waits are on reading data from partitions. In v$session the main session and the child processes are marked as killed.
In v$lock I see that the wait is on db read scan. Everything is working. That's actually my issue.
Why it's still querying data/reading from disk when I killed all the sessions.
Doesn't Oracle stop the processes associated with a killed session?
I killed the session: alter system kill session 'sid,serial';
Do you think "alter system disconnect session 'sid,serial' immediate" is better?
What I don't understand is how can I stop fast (ok I get that it can not happen in a few seconds) a query that is only read only that is running for too long. When I kill a session I was expecting the processes associated with it to stop. In a update/insert/delete, the server will wait for the rollback, but this is not changing data.
If you think more debug is necessary I will upload on Monday AWR and all the statistics I collected. I am not in the office now.
Thanks,
Daniel

Does the end of the year upgrade policy also include just Photoshop?

I understand CS3 and CS4 are eligible for upgrades to CS6 until the end of the year, but what about upgrading from PS4 to PS6? I normally upgrade to every version, but due to being layed up for 8 months with a knee injury money is extremely tight, so I was planning to wait and upgrade from CS4 to CS6. I heard about the new (now old) upgrade policy so I upgraded to CS5 a few days ago. Now I see that Adobe changed the upgrade policy again. Now I'm wondering if I can return CS5 and wait to upgrade to CS6 later in the year when I have more cash flow.

Hi Coldrake
Yes, all CS3 and CS4 products, whether they're a suite or stand-alone product, like Photoshop, as a one-off arrangement this year only, can wait 'til December 31st 2012 to upgrade directly to CS6... of course, we don't know how much that will cost!
Thank you, pf22, that answers my question perfectly. I'd love to keep PS5, especially with the discount, but as I said, after being off work for so long, money is extremely tight at the moment and will be for the next couple of months.
Of course we also have the "Grace Period" coming up where you could purchase the CS5 upgrade and get CS6 for free
It looks like it's going to be a few months before PS6 will be coming out, so I may be able to swing that, thank you for an excellent suggestion.
Thank you Noel for covering all the bases! I don't have the suite, just Photoshop.
Thanks for both of your replies, they are greatly appreciated.
Larry

Is the season pass for LOST worth it - writers strike?????????????????

hi guys. i purchased the season pass for desperate housewifes and was stunned after i am now left with 10 of the usual 24 episodes....who knows whats coming
i am now considering purchasing the season pass for lost, however I am not sure how many episodes will air...
does anyone know when LOST is running out of material or are they pretty much not affected by it. i want to know before purchasing another season pass....thanks

Lost season 4 is listed as by episode only at this point, right?
I haven't purchased a season pass since the strike started, but if I paid for a season and ended up paying more for a season pass than I would have paid purchasing the episodes individually, then I would contact iTunes support or at least send feedback.
The last time I purchased a season pass that fell short in episodes I received an email from Apple that gave me credit for videos from the iTunes store without even dealing with the feedback system or customer service.
Did you contact Apple regarding the season pass for Desperate Housewives Season 4? That's what? Around 6 or 7 episodes that you overpaid for.
If you aren't satisfied with your previous experience with a season pass during the strike period then contact Apple before spending more money on another pass, if one should become available.
Use http://www.apple.com/support/itunes/store/seasonpass/ as a starting point.
Good Luck,
-j

Will iTunes have a season 4 game of thrones season pass during the season?

Can anyone answer this as I saw that in Australia Itunes will not have a season pass...???

No-one here will know. There was an exclusive rights deal between HBO and Foxtel, but the HBO/Foxtel exclusive rights issue is over and done with already. GOT S4 is available right now on Google Play - so why not iTunes? I think it likely the ball is in Apple's court now, so I hope they start negotiating with HBO soon, because I would prefer to have all my seasons of GOT available on the same platform, but it won't be the end of the world if I buy the android version (which is selling pretty cheap for some reason).

How to add a sub report at the end of the main report whilst grouped

Hi!
I have a main report that is grouped by the Customers name and then details of transactions they did with the company.
I need to add a letter at the end of each group for each customer (With their name displayed in the letter). I tried adding a sub report in the report footer, but it only appears once at the end of the report, rather than at the end of each group for each customer.
How can I achieve the desired result?
Regards
Vik

Vik,
You are on the right track with the sub-report.
1. Create your letter in a separate report.
2. Add the Letter Report to your original report as a sub report in the group footer.
3. Set the report links on the "Group By" field.
This will give you a letter record for each report record with the same grouping as the main report.
Hope this helps,
Jason

I have the adobe cloud 9.99/ month photography package i downloaded lightroom 5.4, it told me it was a trial version, and i'm now at the end of the trial and it won't let me download the full version and i don't have a serial number

i have the adobe cloud 9.99/ month photography package i downloaded lightroom 5.4, it told me it was a trial version, and i'm now at the end of the trial and it won't let me download the full version and i don't have a serial number. also, when i click buy, i get an error message saying, "application not found."

There are two different LR’s, one with a serial-number licensing and one with a CC-signin license.
You should uninstall the serial-number LR you have installed, then
Quit the CC Desktop application,
Restart the CC Desktop application—this will rescan what you have installed and not see LR,
LR will now be on the CC Desktiop apps list, so install that.

I have an Iad2 and ever since ios6-there are issues.I get occasional lock-ups and have to reboot. The WSJ app freezes when running their videos to the end. The only work-around is to stop the video before it's over. Worse than windows me !!!!!

My Ipad2 worked perfectly before ios6 upgrade. It now freezes occasionally and I have to reboot to get it to work. Also the WSJ app will now freeze if I try and run one of their videos that is imbedded in the article. My only work-around is to stop (press done) before the end of the video or I have to do a total reboot. The problems remind me of Windows ME . Will Apple resolve these issues or become more like Microsoft. Hopefully there will be a restore button in the future like Microsoft was forced to do because a lot of upgrades are just terrible. Am I crazy or are there other people having the same issues with ios6, or could this just be a coincidence and my ipad2 is starting to fail just when ios6 arrives ?

I know this will not help but, the bluetooth headset I purchased for my wife works great and it pairs with our car and our sound bar in the livingroom (Motorola Droid Razr) 98.72.16.XT912.Verizon.en.US
However I did not upgrade over the air but from a android web site and placed it on my external sd card. I believe this made the difference in why we had no issues and upgraded functionality has been great.
Please note when I mention these bluetooth devices I mean the Razr connects with no problems.
It also had no internet issues and none of the problems others have complained about in other threads.
unfortunately when you say thousands have these issues I cannot say that is accurate. The hope is when large numbers of owners have updated to the Jelly Bean and are complaining inmase then Motorola will issue a patch to verizon to get out to the affected users.
Of course now that Google owns Motorola Mobility and has laid off loads of workers it may never issue an os patch.

Row getting added in the end of the scroll

Hi -
I am using a scroll area on a page on level 1. The issue iam encountering is that when ever i click the plus sign to add a second or third row (assume one record already exists in scroll 1) , the row gets added in the end of the scroll and also the fields are blank. However as delievered the new row should get added on the top of the scroll meaning 1 of 2 not 2 of 2, and also it should carry forward the values from the prior row. Please any suggestion or help is greatly appreciated.

I figured it out. The reason it was happening was because, my scroll record had another key field after EFFDT and EFFSEQ, due to which the delivered copy forward logic for new rows in scroll did not work and the row was getting added in the end or after the first blank row always.

I had a problem installing icloud on windows 8.1. What should I do? At the end of the installation process there is a error message.

I had a problem installing icloud on windows 8.1. At the end of the installation process there is a error message.What should I do?

I'm guessing that you have checked and complied with the system requirements?
System Requirements
Microsoft Windows 7 or 8
Microsoft Outlook 2007 or later or an up-to-date browser (for Mail, Contacts, Calendars)
Internet Explorer 9 or later, Firefox 22 or later, or Google Chrome 28 or later (for Bookmarks)
Broadband Internet access
Note: If you are upgrading from iCloud Control Panel 1.1 or earlier, you will need to sign out of iCloud Control Panel and uninstall it before downloading iCloud Control Panel 3.1

Why does my cursor not automatically select the entire word when I try to select text by starting/ending in the middle of a word?

In any other browser I've used (or word processor, for that matter) when I select text using my mouse cursor, if I start and/or end in the middle of a word, it automatically selects the whole word when I'm selecting more than one word. But for some reason this is not happening in Firefox. If I try to select say 3 words, and I start in the middle of the first word and end in the middle of the last word, it will only select those parts, not all 3 words entirely.

Firefox allows to select part of a word. You can select a word with a double click and use Shift + left click to set the end of the selection, so you need to click at the end of the last word instead of in it.

Want to buy a home by the end of the year - do I have a chance?

Hi everyone, I'm new to the forums, and only a "lurker" for about a week or so. There are too many factors involved to explain why, but my wife and I want to buy a house by the end of the year; so we're calling December 15 our deadline. As you read through our situation below, please keep the following questions in mind. I have the opportunity to use about $3000 to pay down some debt; what do I pay down, and what do I leave with a balance (and use for purchases)?Should I open a personal loan to pay off some cards and have a "new" type of loan on my credit report? Or will the added inquiry hurt more than the new line will help? I get constant offers from crap places like Prosper, but maybe with a better company...Should I refinance my NJ Class loans at a lower interest rate?Should I refinance my car loan at a lower interest rate or longer term?Should I go into repayment on the Federal student loan now so I can choose the repayment plan with the lowest monthly payment (30-year "extended" or "graduated extended") and have it show up on my credit report with a low monthly payment? Or will it not come up on my credit report as such (will it still show a high payment)? Or will the payment amount be ignored by the mortgage company (I've heard some use something like 1% of the loan amount per month)?Since my wife's employment situation is not ideal, can I get approved with only my credit and income and whatnot (making me the only one legally responsible for payment), but still have "joint ownership" of the property?It looks like a downpayment of 5% on $240k ($12k) turns into about $20k of up-front expenses when you count closing costs and escrow-tax-insurance-somethingorother (technical term, right?). What are the chances that after settling on a price with the seller, they'd accept bumping up the price by the amount of my closing costs, and then paying my closing costs for me? So basically, I'd be financing the closing costs. I've seen it mentioned in another form ("I offered $###k with seller-paid closing costs"). If the chances are low, how else can I reduce those closing costs? I've seen negative points, personal loans and cash advances (not sure if legal to use borrowed funds?), and downpayment-assistance programs (reduce downpayment = more cash available for closing costs, but I haven't seen this offered in NJ outside of taking a second mortgage for the downpayment in certain cases only) mentioned, but does anyone have a definitive list of how to lower the financial burden of closing costs?Based on my income, debts, interest rates, monthly amount I can put into savings, and general "homebuying timeline," when should I get pre-qualified? Please do not limit your advice to that related to the questions above... I hope to learn as much as I can, as quickly as I can 1. Mortgage Credit Scores:
What are your fico MORTGAGE credit scores for each mortgage applicant?I don't really want to pay to get mortgage scores now because I'm not ready to get prequalified... still paying down credit cards, so to me it's useless to get the score until my credit situation is stable. Here are free scores from credit cards and whatnot:
Myself:Discover 6/21: 773Citi 5/26: 744Capital One 6/18: 746Mint.com 4/7: 686 (score to be updated July 7th) My Wife:Discover 6/14: 749 Based on these, and the general deviation between them and mortgage scores (<50 points?) I think I would be able to qualify for a conventional loan, skipping FHA (ugh... mortgage insurance for life?). Some low-downpayment loan programs like Fannie Mae's MyCommunityMortgage (MCM) require higher scores (especially for DU), and I do think I would have the required 680-or-so, but as I mention elsewhere in this post, I haven't found an NJ MCM lender (other than brokers). But ideally, a 3% downpayment (like MCM) and reduced (compared to FHA and conventional) MI (again, like MCM) would be ideal... Obviously, there's no guarantee that these are anywhere close to the mortgage scores, so once I feel like I've paid down my cards as far as I need to (i.e. I feel I'm ready to get pre-qualified), I'll make sure to buy the mortgage scores. I'm thinking that point will be in about a month, but that depends on your answer(s) to question 8 :\ 2. Credit Negatives:  None except for a late payment more than 24 months ago on a student loan that was in "interest-only deferment." I believe that's on TransUnion, which is what Capital One pulls. 3. Gross Income./4. Source of income.   Myself: $65,000 (+ bonus that some years is as low as $500, so won't include it)My wife: $13,000 (±$2,000) All income is from employment (hers is part-time, and with two retail jobs, very likely to vary; mine is a salaried position). I may get an added part-time just to boost my savings, but it wouldn't be reported to them (I'm thinking a 3-6 month deal). 5. Monthly debt payments. Here are all my cards and loans, including month opened, APR, balance, limit, and payment. All balances as of today: Currently in my name w/wife as authorized user:Elan Financial CC, opened 6/2013, 20% APR:$-10 ($10,600 CL); payment $0Discover It CC, opened 5/2013, 15% APR:$2,900 ($5,000 CL); payment $59 **current APR 0% since entire balance was transferred from Elan at one point with a 0% offer that expires in AugustCapital One Quicksilver CC, opened 2008, 16% APR:$678 ($4,000 CL); payment $25Citi ThankYou Preferred CC, opened 8/2013, 14% APR:$700 ($2,600 CL); payment $25BankAmericard Cash Rewards CC, opened 8/2013, 15% APR:$616 ($2,000 CL); payment $25 My credit limits all went up within the last 6 months. Before then, they were $6,600 for Elan, $4,000 for Discover, $1,000 for Capital, $2,000 for Citi, and $800 for Bank of America. BofA was the only one that didn't automatically raise my limit or tell me I should request an increase, and when I requested it, they were the only ones that hit me with a HP. The Kay card below has also had a constantly-rising credit limit, from an original of $500, to $2500 a year ago, to the current $4000. Just in my name:Kay Jewelers CC, opened 4/2012, ridiculous (25%?) APR:$0 ($4,000 CL) - payment $0Macy's CC, opened 5/2014, 25% APR:$0 ($600 CL as of March) - payment $0M&T Auto Loan, since 9/2013, 5.3% APR:$10,310 ($14,218 original) - payment $231 (72 months total)HESAA/NJ Class, in repayment since 6/2015, 7.5% (approx. avg.) APR:$13,014 (originally less, but interest has accrued while in school) - payment $131FedLoans Direct Loans, in grace until 11/2015, 5% (avg.) APR:$56,237 (originally $52,000, but interest has accrued while in school) - payment $403 under standard repayment, <$250 under extended repayment ("Mortgage Letter" shows $403 unfortunately, since I can't pick a repayment plan now unless I forfeit the rest of the grace period) Wife's name w/me as authorized user:Discover CC, opened 5/2015, ridiculous (>20%) APR:$1,304 ($1,500 CL) - payment $35 So basically, I have a crapload of debt and quite a few recent inquiries. However, my credit score shot up when:The 5/2013 accounts aged to 2 years (and thus the inquiries were removed);I paid down cards and increased limits; usage went from ~$13k of ~$19k revolving limit used to about ~$6.5k (at one point) of about ~$25k (at one point) revolving limit used; now it's at about $5k used of $29k;I was added as an authorized user on my wife's card (at card opening).I think those point to a nice boost to the credit score when (1) I pay down the cards even more [to end of July], and (2) the three inquiries from BofA, Citi, and M&T disappear [2 in Aug, 1 in Sep]. Sounds like my pre-approval should be early October, making my intended closing date near-impossible . Maybe I can still qualify with a good rate despite the inquiries?
6. Employment (for those who are employed). Myself:Went from $16k/year to $26k/year part-time while in school, now $65k/year (as of last month) and salaried, all at the same company for 4 years now, and the boost was due to graduating; surely they can throw out the 2-year requirement? I plan on staying here for many years, and am about 99.9% certain there will be no reason for that income to drop in the forseeable future. Wife:Nothing's sure, and it's very low pay. As noted above, $13k/year at the moment, but she's unhappy with both (retail... ugh) jobs, so that's not guaranteed. She's looking for a break and a decent office job, but even if she gets it, I'm pretty sure the short length of time that she'd have it before getting a loan would make the difference in income useless. I'll add here our budget: In our current situation, with about $5000/month net income ($1k from her, $4k from me), we can comfortably save $2000/month. July and October are 5-week months, so that goes up to $3000 those months. However, I'm using the $3000 surplus from this month to pay down cards. So that's $7k added to savings thru October or $9k thru November. Hypothetically, I could "skip" paying off cards (or pay down all but Discover) in order to boost up savings.
7. Assets/Reserves. This is to determine how much you could potentially have as a down payment and also as reserves to help qualify (for example if your debt to income ratio is high this could help qualify you anyway). Savings: $5000Checking: Everything that goes in, goes to paying credit cards or into savings. I haven't made a purchase transaction with a debit card in over a year because I get points on all my cards. So call it $0 available for moving to savings.
8. Location:  This is to determine govt guaranteed loan limits, what special programs might be available for you, how much property taxes & homeowners insurance will likely be, amongst other items. Central New Jersey (Somerset, Middlesex, possibly Hunterdon counties). I don't know where I can find a "conforming" 3-3.5% down loan here that's not FHA, since no local banks seem to advertise something like it. I've been looking at MyCommunityMortgage and they seem awesome - 3-5% down with mortgage insurance that is typical for 10-15%-down conventional loans - but when I do search for "Fannie Mae + your home state" as recommended, all I get is HomeFirst and general info on MyCommunityMortgage (since the income/value limits are higher for NJ, that info gets included in all their documentation on the program).
9. Property Description:  Single-family, "single home" (no townhouse/condo). No foreclosures, short sales, or other "as-is" situations.
10. Property Value.  $200,000-$250,000
11. Occupancy.  Currently? Rent $550/mo. As far as every credit application I've filled out is concerned, it's my responsibility. However, since the contract IS in both our names, I could hypothetically call it $275/mo (even split) or $440/mo (split based on relative income). Not sure what that would help/hurt with; I've heard of sticker shock being a concern for some, but if all goes according to plan ($2000/mo into savings, basically the amount the mortgage+tax+insurance would be), I don't see that being an issue. 12. Transaction Type. Purchase - primary residence. ----------------------------------------- Sorry for the extremely long post... and thank you all in advance

Georgie_Boy wrote:
Hi everyone, I'm new to the forums, and only a "lurker" for about a week or so. There are too many factors involved to explain why, but my wife and I want to buy a house by the end of the year; so we're calling December 15 our deadline. As you read through our situation below, please keep the following questions in mind. I have the opportunity to use about $3000 to pay down some debt; what do I pay down, and what do I leave with a balance (and use for purchases)? You want to get as many of your ccs to zero as you can ...optimum scoring is one account carrying a balance of 3-9% of your CL, all others at zero ...the mortgage lenders will count each account with a balance as a monthly debt due equal to your minimum payment when calculating your dtirs ...those minimum payments quickly add up and can seriously impact how much you can get approved for.Should I open a personal loan to pay off some cards and have a "new" type of loan on my credit report? Or will the added inquiry hurt more than the new line will help? I get constant offers from crap places like Prosper, but maybe with a better company...Ignore the personal loan offers. You have a decent credit mix now between your ccs and auto installment loan. A personal loan would only hurt your scores at this point.Should I refinance my NJ Class loans at a lower interest rate? Not personally familiar with these but it looks like a SL from the other info you've provided. Generically you should refinance when the total cost of doing so is beneficial to you. That said, a mortgage lender is going to look at total student debt, and use the greater of your current payment or 1% of the total ...thus refinancing for mortgage purposes may not result in any dtir benefit to you. Should I refinance my car loan at a lower interest rate or longer term? If this is a new car loan, yes ...if its a used car loan, it depends on age and value because your current rate isn't outrageous for an older car loan ...generically, if you can refinance to a lower monthly payment at a reasonable cost, you should do so in order to lower your dtir ...but its a trade-off because the HP will probably cost you a few points on your scores.Should I go into repayment on the Federal student loan now so I can choose the repayment plan with the lowest monthly payment (30-year "extended" or "graduated extended") and have it show up on my credit report with a low monthly payment? Or will it not come up on my credit report as such (will it still show a high payment)? Or will the payment amount be ignored by the mortgage company (I've heard some use something like 1% of the loan amount per month)? All of the govt guaranteed loan programs have recently moved to using the higher of your current payment or 1% of the total in your dtir calculations ...do the math and act accordingly. Be wary of any lender that is not using the higher figure when giving you preapproval numbers, uw will inevitably catch it and it could torpedo your loan after you've signed a contract and spent on prepaids and fees.Since my wife's employment situation is not ideal, can I get approved with only my credit and income and whatnot (making me the only one legally responsible for payment), but still have "joint ownership" of the property? She is either on the loan or not ...you can't have it both ways. At the time you apply, your LO will look at both of your incomes and tell you what will work best in your situation. As long as her income can be documented via tax returns, it should be "useable"It looks like a downpayment of 5% on $240k ($12k) turns into about $20k of up-front expenses when you count closing costs and escrow-tax-insurance-somethingorother (technical term, right?). What are the chances that after settling on a price with the seller, they'd accept bumping up the price by the amount of my closing costs, and then paying my closing costs for me? So basically, I'd be financing the closing costs. I've seen it mentioned in another form ("I offered $###k with seller-paid closing costs"). If the chances are low, how else can I reduce those closing costs? I've seen negative points, personal loans and cash advances (not sure if legal to use borrowed funds?), and downpayment-assistance programs (reduce downpayment = more cash available for closing costs, but I haven't seen this offered in NJ outside of taking a second mortgage for the downpayment in certain cases only) mentioned, but does anyone have a definitive list of how to lower the financial burden of closing costs? This is very specific to the loan program ...conventional with 5% dp limits seller concessions to 3%, FHA is 6% regardless, USDA is technically unlimited ...be aware that every lender will have their own overlays which may affect those numbers. It is also affected greatly by your market conditions which at the moment vary greatly by your locale ...in a buyers market, you can expect seller concessions ...in a sellers market, probably not. USDA offers the best govt guarantee program for closing costs since they will allow you to include closing costs in the loan up to the appraised value. New Jersey's web site is screwed up (at least for me) and I can't nail down exactly what dp/closing cost assistance programs are available to you but it looks very dependent on the specific location you are buying in.Based on my income, debts, interest rates, monthly amount I can put into savings, and general "homebuying timeline," when should I get pre-qualified? DO NOT get "pre-qualified" ...get "pre-approved" ...a pre-qual is virtually meaningless ...a pre-approval means they've actually looked at your documentation and, short of verification, are reasonably sure they can get you to closing ...its a huge difference ...as far as when? ...yesterday would have been great ...rates are rising ...its almost certainly going to get worse ...so bite the bullet ...find a decent realtor in your target area, ask them to recommend lenders they have worked with that can actually close their loans ...talk to those lenders ...get a pre-app ...go shopping ...if your credit scores/dtir improve significantly because of cc paydowns, ask your lender to rescore you ...mortgage pulls within 30-60 days all count as one HP. Please do not limit your advice to that related to the questions above... I hope to learn as much as I can, as quickly as I can 1. Mortgage Credit Scores: Its essential to your question of "when" that you know your actual mortgage scores ...the Discover scores are actual Fico cc scores, the others are FAKOs afaik ...but the Fico cc and mortgage scoring models differ in several important ways and vary easily by +/- 50 points depending on what is in your CRA files ...mine actually track fairly closely but others have seen very negative differences ...its worth the $40 imnsho to know where you actually stand ...anything you do to improve them in the next month will only help but is not sufficient reason to delay ...again imnsho.  2. Credit Negatives:  Have you tried to have the late removed from the CR? Depending on the SL source, some programs have been very responsive to GW requests after a good payment record has been reestablished ...ymmv but you lose nothing by trying.  5. Monthly debt payments. Get the Discover to under $500 if possible ...and ask for a CLI asap ...Discover has been handing them out like candy lately ...keep a balance open 3-9% if possible but if not, as low as you can ...its more important to zero the other ccs first.Capital One Quicksilver CC, opened 2008, 16% APR:$678 ($4,000 CL); payment $25 ...pay it to zeroCiti ThankYou Preferred CC, opened 8/2013, 14% APR:$700 ($2,600 CL); payment $25 ...pay it to zeroBankAmericard Cash Rewards CC, opened 8/2013, 15% APR:$616 ($2,000 CL); payment $25 ...pay it to zero HESAA/NJ Class, in repayment since 6/2015, 7.5% (approx. avg.) APR:$13,014 (originally less, but interest has accrued while in school) - payment $131FedLoans Direct Loans, in grace until 11/2015, 5% (avg.) APR:$56,237 (originally $52,000, but interest has accrued while in school) - payment $403 under standard repayment, <$250 under extended repayment ("Mortgage Letter" shows $403 unfortunately, since I can't pick a repayment plan now unless I forfeit the rest of the grace period)Its almost certain that the last two will be seen as a combined 69k SL with $690 used in your dtir calculation Wife's name w/me as authorized user:Discover CC, opened 5/2015, ridiculous (>20%) APR:$1,304 ($1,500 CL) - payment $35 ...pay this to zero Credit score almost certainly isn't your major problem ...debt-to-income is Total income = 78k =6500 moTotal mo debt = 134cc/231auto/690SL= 1055 + ~1600 mo PITI+MI (220k@5%/5%dp) NJ taxes are higher than national avgs = 2655 total monthly paymentsThats a be ratio of 41% ...ideal is <36% but many programs will go higher
6. Employment (for those who are employed). Do not count on reason and logic being used in the mortgage process ...this will come down to finding a lender who will work with you ...if the 4 yrs is same company and the line of work matches your degree, it may not be a problem ...but its one reason you want to get the pre-approval process going now ...to find a lender who knows your exact situation, has reviewed the documentation, and given you a pre-approval knowing all the facts ...av pre-qual will look at your score, ask you for your current income, and promise you pie-in-the-sky until the rubber meets the road and his uw upchucks over your employment history ...goodbye loan and all the money you paid ...get a real pre-approval  8. Location:  Hunterdon county has a lot of areas eligible for the USDA program and your income is well within the limits ...if the commute is acceptable, its a good program. Somerset/Middlesex are mostly ineligible. The NJ website for dp assistance programs isn't working for me but take the effort to ask your prospective lenders about these programs and their experience with them. Any that pooh pooh them should be scratched off your list. 11. Occupancy.   Sticker shock WILL be an UW issue but you appear to have it addressed. Current rent will not factor in to dtir for your mortgage.  ----------------------------------------- Sorry for the extremely long post... and thank you all in advance ...I could only wish that everyone would supply as much info as you have ...please feel free to ask if you dont understand ofr if I misunderstood something ...hth

End of the season Discount

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for