Exposure slider

I'm shooting RAW with the camera (Canon 60D) exposure at 0 (no compensation).  When importing into LR3 (also not using any presets), the exposure slider is typically at +2 or above.  I thouht the LR exposure slider would also be at 0.  Why does this happen?

Make sure that <Apply auto tone adjustments> in Preferences is unchecked.

Similar Messages

  • How do I change the size of my screen, in Develop Module, so that I can access the Exposure Slide in the right-hand colummn?

    The right-hand column, under the Develop Module, begins with the Histogram and directly under the Histogram, the Tone Curve is seen.  Missing is the Exposure Slide.  How do I change the size of the screen to show the Exposure Slide before the Tone Curve?

    Right-click (Cmd-click Mac) on the tone curve panel header or any of the other panel headers and make sure there is a checkmark for Basic.

  • Moving exposure slider Lightroom 5 causes losing sharpness in pictures.

    I'm working with (RAW files form 5dmk2) Lightroom 5 on OS X (i5 .2.6 gHz 16 GB RAM Intel HD Graphic 4000, NEC PA 271W display 27') . In Develop module moving exposure slider for a short moment causes loss of sharpnes in pictures, it's really annoying thing. In Lightroom 4  everything worked just fine. How can I fix this problem and keep working with LR5 ?

    I'm working with (RAW files form 5dmk2) Lightroom 5 on OS X (i5 .2.6 gHz 16 GB RAM Intel HD Graphic 4000, NEC PA 271W display 27') . In Develop module moving exposure slider for a short moment causes loss of sharpnes in pictures, it's really annoying thing. In Lightroom 4  everything worked just fine. How can I fix this problem and keep working with LR5 ?

  • Exposure slider makes photo darker

    I have seen this question asked a couple of times, but have not seen a solution.
    Whenever I so much as "touch" the exposure slider in the adjust panel (iPhoto 6.0.6), the photo gets darker. No change in the value of the slider -- it still reads zero. But the histogram shifts to the left and the picture becomes darker and appears to be more saturated -- too saturated, in my opinion.
    Are there any solutions to this?

    The solution is for Apple to fix the software.
    It may not help, but it might make you feel better - let Apple know about it.

  • HP TRUEVISION HD/YOUCAM WEBCAM: BLACK/DARK IMAGES. EXPOSURE SLIDE REVERTS BACK TO -9

    Hello,
    I use a HP Pavilion dv6 -  LK968EA Notebook PC with Windows 7 64-bit operating system.
    The Youcam 3.5 shows a BLACK screen. It worked perfectly when I first got the laptop last year, but all of a sudden, it just got dark. It shows a very faint dark silhouette when I am in the sun, and It does NOT show any image when I am under a halogen lamp or in a room flooded with 4 double fluorescent lamps.
    I have not touched the settings. But when I compared the settings with that of a friend’s, I saw that the exposure setting on his HP TrueVision HD/Youcam 3.5 was -2, while mine was -9.
    I moved it to -2, and nothing changed. So I clicked “apply” and “ok” and still NOTHING CHANGED.
    Someone said I should move the exposure slide to -2, tick “low light compensation” and tick “auto” next to the exposure slide, then just click only “ok”. I did ALL that and nothing happened. I repeated these steps and clicked “apply” and still NOTHING CHANGED.
    I ticked “auto-lighting” and still nothing happened.
    THE EXPOSURE SLIDE DOES NOT REMAIN AT -5 OR -2. IT KEEPS REVERTING BACK TO -9, EVEN THOUGH I ADJUST IT AND CLICK "APPLY" AND/OR "OK". AS SUCH THE IMAGE QUALITY IS STILL BLACK. Clicking "Auto-lighting" does NOT change anything.
    THAT IS THE PROBLEM.
    KINDLY PROVIDE ASSISTANCE ALONG THAT LINE.

    Exactly the same issue. The exposure setting won't change. It's not even that it doesn't save, as you look at the preview screen, all of the video proc amp setting change live, but when you get onto exposure, it does nothing. And then it doesn't save.
     So this issue has been floating around for about 3 years and nothing has come to light to fix it.

  • ACR - exposure slider

    I notice when I use the exposure slider in ACR and back off when I see just the initial red clipping my image is way way over exposed... Anyone else experience this problem?

    The clipping highlights are only an indication. Your best exposure will probably have some elements of red and blue; so trust your own eyes.
    Use the recovery slider and black slider if necessary.
    The vibrance slider is also useful - it will enhance subtle colors (e.g. sky and leaves in a landscape) without blowing out more saturated colors e.g. (red and orange flowers)
    Have a play around with all the sliders and experiment - no permanent changes are made to raw files or jpegs in ACR.
     

  • Exposure slider not entirely linear ?

    Ive recently captured an image with a bright, red to orange sky in the background due to sunset conditions. With a linear preset in ACR (all tonal controls zero, parametric and point curve linear) theres no clipping indicated.
    Actually the Exposure slider has to be raised to +0.70 in order to drive relevant parts of the sky into clipping. But, the Exposure slider has to be set down to -0.70 in order to detach the histogram from the right end of scale.
    In between, its obvious that the histogram does not react linearly to the Exposure slider. Increasing it from 0.70 to +0.70 accumulates and compresses more and more data in the right corner of the histogram (up to RGB 254) without making the final step to clipping.
    Output space is set to ProPhoto RGB, Noise reduction and Sharpening are off, the Recovery slider for sure is at zero. Its CS4 + ACR 5.2.
    Any thoughts or explanations?
    Thanks!
    Peter

    > You can effectively get linear output from Camera Raw (with the exception of gamma encoding) by creating a custom color profile with the DNG Profile Editor with its Base Tone Curve set to Linear, then use the Camera Raw Defaults when processing your image and select that custom color profile.
    Eric, - Many thanks for joining discussion. So what would be the difference between a.) using such linearized custom profile created the way you describe with the DNG profile editor, and b.) employing a linear preset in ACR, means to set all tonal controls to zero, parametric/point curve linear while using the baseline matrix profile ?
    Or, let me ask straightforward: could there possibly be something behind my question, or am I barking up the wrong tree ?
    > The conversion of the demosaiced raw data from the camera's color space in sRGB, aRGB or ProPhoto RGB includes the non-linear transformation as well. This can not be avoided in ACR to my knowledge
    Again my understanding was that matrix-to-matrix conversion is essentially a linear transform (if this is the right term). Means that linear scaling and matrix-to-matrix conversion are essentially commutative, the sequence can be exchanged and the results will be the same (provided that the absolute value of the scaling factor is adjusted) and despite different matrix primaries and different gamma. However, I agree that there are a couple of constraints such as:
    /> out of gamut colors
    /> fancy 'gamma' e.g. with the sRGB TRC
    /> AbsCol conversion between different white points which can introduce additional clipping
    /> RelCol conversion between different white points (not sure about this one)
    So in order to check my approach of testing, I did some ColorChecker exercises. Processed it through ACR (linear preset) with different Exposure settings. Converted to 'linear gamma' ProPhoto RGB in Photoshop. Finally, all derived ratios R2:R1, G2:G1 and B2:B1 were approx the same, whether this is a color or gray patch which I think confirms linearity.
    Seems I still have to find out whats so special with my sunset sky. Or, the hue preserving feature comes in mind which was reported to cover ACRs tone curve(s). Could it be that it acts 'on' the Exposure slider as well, once a single channel is driven into clipping, thus, preventing this. Just a thought.
    Many thanks for your comments.
    Peter

  • Camera Raw exposure slider jumps back

    I´m desperate
    The exposure slider in camera raw always jumps back or forward to the nearly next full f-stop if I choose another slider!

    There has been a discussion of this in the Camera Raw forum that you might want to follow:
    "Exposure slider jumps back"  http://forums.adobe.com/thread/1326441?tstart=0

  • Exposure slider in raw converter

    THE exposure slider Goes to 0 everytime I touch another slider in ps cc RAW converter
    ( same problem in ps 6 ) one week ok than again same problem .

    I suggest first checking the PV2012 information at the two links I provided.
    Andrey Tarasevich wrote:
    So, with the old "Exposure" slider I had a semi-formal/mechanical method of adjusting exposure: just increase (or decrease) it to the point when there's no highlight clipping. But what would be the proper way to use "Exposure" slider in PV2012? How do I decide the "Exposure" setting now? Just by the look of the picture on the screen?
    Yes. As explained the PV2012 Exposure control is now primarily used to set the midtone exposure levels only. The Whites control is used to establish or change the White clipping point, and same for the Blacks control.
    If you want to get a visual picture of just how the PV2012 controls work on a raw image download this file:
    http://forums.adobe.com/message/4602370#4602370
    And here for information on differences between the Basic panel and Tone Curve controls:
    http://forums.adobe.com/message/4789422#4789422

  • LR 2.6 freezes when select gradient tool and then move exposure slider

    Often i lay down a gradient tool on an image then move to controls to adjust exposure, etc. Frequently I get the "spinning beach ball" and must force quit. No other problems.
    imac i7, 8GB ran, 10.6.3
    thanks for any suggestions.

    bump

  • Exposure control effecting Lumiance

    Have others requested from Apple, that the Exposure slider effect lumiance only and not increase Saturation at the same time. Justs seems to me that exposure should be seperated from saturation especially since the Saturation slider is just below.
    I find that there are at times some colorful objects in the scene that do not need any satuation but could benefit from the exposure being moved up. I know the work arounds.
    Just thought Id ask to see if anyone else is bugged by this. Oh ACR 4.1 also does this so Apple is not alone. Just hoping that Apple will do it Right.
    David

    It's pretty much part of working in RGB.
    Ian

  • Which do you prefer: Increasing exposure or adjusting  the tone curve?

    I'd like to know how people here handle their images.
    I use a Nikon D7100 in camera RAW. In camera my images are always in balance. In LR, if I select Auto Tone in Basics invariably it will adjust the exposure. I tend to adjust exposure near last in my workflow because I assume my camera had the exposure setting right. When I feel I need to adjust the exposure my first stop is the Tone Curve. I'm wondering a couple of things:
    1) I know we edit by the specifics of each photo, but generally do you make adjustments to Exposure or the Tone Curve first?
    2) Is there a reason or a time to prefer one over the other?
    Thanks,

    My recommendation:
    (note: I am interpreting "exposure", in your question, to mean "dynamic range at right wall of histogram", i.e. white point)
    Adjust basics exposure first (before tone/point curve), but note: you may not be able to go all the way using the exposure slider. Next stop (if necessary): +whites, but note: it may not be optimal to go all the way using whites. Final stop (if necessary): cinch in the the exposure by dragging white point to the left via the point curve.
    Rationale: basics have some intelligence and magic that tone curve does not. If you do tone curve first, you've missed some opportunities..
    Still a begging question: how much exposure vs. whites vs. tone curve (point curve).
    Note: go easy on the contrast at first, and assure blacks are sufficiently seated using blacks slider (and maybe tone/point curve).
    Likewise, cranking whites up will increase global contrast, so if you take a shot at blacks and whites before contrast, then you may avoid a common mistake: radically wrong contrast due to adjusting before establishing ballpark black & white slider values.
    Anyway, be aware that increased PV2012 exposure (and/or whites) is designed to be used with -highlights (note: there is no "brightness" slider), and to avoid making things too washed out (or over-jamming the highlights) it may be desirable to substitute +whites and/or +shadows for some +exposure.
    Note: tones may gang up (on the right side of the histogram) in a non-optimal way when using +exposure and/or +whites, in which case it may be better to use point curve for white point adjustment (e.g. leftward drag). For example, sometimes the whites will be overly compressed if you don't bring white point in on the curve instead.
    Rules of thumb:
    Most of my normal photos end up with:
    +exposure (to fully brighten)
    +whites (for full dynamic range without excessive exposure setting)
    -highlights (for dialing back +exposure and/or +whites)
    +shadows (so -blacks and doesn't leave image with overly dark shadows)
    -blacks (for full dynamic range without needing as much contrast)
    *contrast: depends - if overly contrasty to begin with (or a lot of -blacks and/or +whites are employed), this usually gets dialed back; if underly contrasty to begin with (or +blacks and/or -whites have been employed), this usually gets bumped up.
    (for abnormal photos or when desiring abnormal results - anything goes..).
    Other common mistakes (in addition to wrong contrast and/or non-optimal balance between exposure & whites..):
    trying to recover highlights via -whites. try -highlights (and maybe +whites) before -whites.
    Warning signs:
    if you have very high values for +shadows and -highlights, you may have contrast set too high.
    if you have a positive value for highlights, you may have contrast/exposure/whites too low.
    if you have a negative value for shadows, you may have contrast too low, or blacks/exposure too high.
    Miscellaneous:
    Try +clarity and +saturation (and/or +vibrance) to pump it up, if reduced contrast and/or increased exposure has left it looking a little washed out.. (likewise, -saturation if +contrast has left it looking a little too "rich"..).
    You already know this, but for the sake of completeness (and other readers): you can learn by clicking 'Auto Tone' "button". You may need to dial back the exposure afterward etc. but it can be very educational none-the-less..
    Of course, you can always fine-tune tone using tone curve (e.g. if image is just way overbright, like some snow shots, try tugging the midpoint downward..).
    Don't forget the locals for final spot toning.
    In case you haven't gleaned yet, adjusting via PV2012 is not the same as you might think at first - you don't just set exposure/black/white points and leave them, and then adjust everything else. e.g. -highlights pulls white point down more than -whites does (but +whites brings white point back up, which means you usually need to adjust in tandem..), so be prepared for a lot of back n' forth, to lessen with experience..
    PS - There are tutorial videos galore, but at the risk of opposing Adobe and their sycophants, be forewarned: some are geared to how they wished PV2012 was (simple), and not to how it really is (interdependent image-dependent settings..)   - examples:
    top-down is touted, but that ignores black/white point issues which can lead to radically wrong contrast (and/or exposure) setting.
    often, adjustment of blacks is considered optional/fine-tuning, but blacks sometimes need large value adjustment, and dramatically impacts contrast & shadow brightness..
    often, adjustment of whites is considered optional/fine-tuning, but sometimes optimal toning can only be had by using a large whites value adjustment, which dramatically impacts contrast, and exposure..
    cteavin wrote:
    I tend to adjust exposure near last in my workflow because I assume my camera had the exposure setting right.
    In case not clear yet, adjusting exposure and/or whites (and/or white point on curve) and all the rest is often done to turn an image "with potential" into a very nice image, not just to compensate for in-camera exposure imperfection. I have lots of under-exposed images that end with -exposure (granted, usually +whites), and vice-versas.. That said, if you don't know whether to crank it up or down, there is something to be said for passing until you do..
    Lastly, for emphasis: exposure slider is an intelligent slider. It behaves more like normal exposure adjusters at lower values, and more like brightness adjusters at higher values (has clipping protection and highlight roll-off logic which kicks in as you crank it up..). So, it's a mistake to think of adjusting it just to make up for non-optimal camera exposure setting.
    Sorry for verbose answer, but there is really no short answer which doesn't run the risk of being bad advice: best way to adjust "exposure" depends...
    Cheers,
    Rob

  • Slides do not react

    Does anybody know why all of a sudden in the development module the exposure slide does not react - I can move it but it does not affect the picture. With this the hystogram remains unchanged. Other slides also do not react. I have logged out several times but the problem remains.
    Does anyone know how to solve this.
    many thanks
    luciana

    is this an adobe photoshop issue?

  • Camera Raw 3.7 no longer supports per slider auto adjustments

    Nobody else resent this "improvement"?
    Now the only way to have the image properly scaled (while not affecting everyting else by the automatic guesswork) is to have the settings in custom non-automatic default and then one has to use the Exposure slider manually with the aid of the Highlights Clipping Warning, for each and every image.
    Compared to the 3.6 where this is fully automatic and works very very well.

    sorry for the confusion, it is indeed shift double click and double click to change from auto to standard.
    If you use your own created standard setting both automatic and standard on top of the sliders are blue colored and visible. Using auto does gray out the auto setting and using standard does gray out this option which is logical because you have to click on the highlighted option to change.
    So this is the way to see in what mode you are.
    underneath a copy from the original post that came with the release,
    regards
    Omke
    Topic
    Camera Raw 3.7 Now Available
    Tom Hogarty - 09:36pm Feb 18, 2007 Pacific
    The Photoshop Camera Raw 3.7 plug-in is now available on adobe.com.
    http://www.adobe.com/products/photoshop/cameraraw.html
    Important Notes Regarding Camera Raw 3.7
    There are several significant changes to Camera Raw 3.7 in how it handles auto and default settings:
    Applying auto settings by default is no longer controlled on a model by model basis, but instead there is a single global preference checkbox Apply auto tone adjustments that controls this adjustment for all camera models at once.
    Camera Raw 3.7 no longer supports per slider auto adjustments. One Auto control at the top of the panel now sets the Exposure, Shadows, Brightness, and Contrast sliders to their auto values. The Default control at the top of the panel sets these same four sliders to their default values. The keyboard shortcut for the Auto control is CMD/CTRL-U.
    The keyboard shortcut for the Default control is CMD/CTRL-R.
    Double clicking on a slider to set that single slider to its default value.
    Shift double clicking on a slider to set that single slider to its auto value.
    Previously, default image settings could only be applied per camera model. Camera Raw 3.7 can now:
    -Apply default image settings specific to a camera serial number
    -Apply default image settings specific to a camera ISO setting
    The additional criteria are located in the Camera Raw preferences.
    The default settings (including the global auto preference) are now shared with the DNG Converter.
    The DNG Converter requires OS X 10.3.9 as a minimum operating system.

  • Exposure to the Right, RAW Conversion

    Hi,
    I am quite new to ETTR only having started seriously looking into it this week. I have got the "in camera" part OK. What is giving me a headache at the moment is the subsequent RAW conversion as far as exposure is concerned. I note that if I reduce exposure with the "exposure" slider or "recovery" slider, I can get rid of any clipping. But I notice that the histogram and appearance of each procedure is different. Could someone lead me gently and advise which if either is the preferred route?
    Peter

    Jao vdL wrote:
    Yeah, your time is far more valuable than a potential 0.3 dB better signal
    to noise.
    Horseshyte....
    Unless you are shooting a fleeting moment never to happen again (such as news, sports or something like a wedding), you would be a fool not to double check the scene contrast range and compare it to your sensor dynamic range and decide for yourself where to place your exposure on the scale between "normal" VS ETTR.
    Most cameras these days handle a good 10-11 stops of scene contrast range no problem. If you are shooting on even a hazy day (let alone a cloudy day) todays sensors can prolly handle the scene with a plus 1/3 to 1 stop increase in base exposure. A +1 stop increase win base exposure in a scene with 10 stops or less will prolly not blow highlights but will result in a capture that when ETTR will produce a less noisy image than "normally" exosed (based on the through the lens metering of todays DSLRs).
    If the scene contrast range is less than the dynamic range of the sensor, you are wasting bits to do a "normal" exposure...
    All bets are off if the scene contrast range is beyond the dynamic range of the sensor...but of course, making that determination requires knowing both the dynamic range of the sensor (not supper easy to determine) and the contrast range of the scene (again, not easy to determine).
    But don't disregard ETTR out of hand without knowing EXACTLY what we are talking about in terms of scene contrast range and dynamic rang os the sensor. In any even, you should try real hard to know what the f$%ck you are doing BEOFRE you actually exposure the frame...

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