"Fan Failure" and strange revving noise

Hi everyone,
*I'm noticing some troubling stuff from my Dual 1.8 PowerPC G5:*
-Console is reporting "Fan Failure" literally every second.
-Persistent high/low revving noise (recording: http://mg.freeshell.org/g5sound.mp3).
-iStat Pro reporting 76rpm slot and 51rpm backside (temp range of 29-37 degrees celsius under load).
*So far, this is what I've done:*
-Tested with Apple Hardware Test and Tech Tool Pro. Both found no errors.
-Checked that all fans appear to be spinning.
-Insured red light on logic board isn't lit.
-Tried to pinpoint the source of noise. Hard to say, but sounds loudest by the dual processors.
-Reset the PMU.
-Reset the PRAM.
-Reset the NVRAM (via open firmware).
-Reinstalled OS X Leopard via erase/install; installed all updates.
*More background info:*
A week before the "Fan Failure," I noticed a BIG drop in speed/performance. I installed more RAM by temporarily moving the front inlet fan and I also cleaned the inside of the machine with compressed air. After this, I noticed the machine lacked the normal revving sound on startup. I reseated the front inlet fan and startup sounded okay, but then the G5 proceeded to freak as described. I removed the new RAM, but problems still persist.
*Any ideas? Please advise.*
I'd really appreciate the help.

Dear Afri,
The only thing I can think of is not a failing fan, but a failing logic board sending the wrong values to the fans (iStat reports the instructions passed on to the fans, the fans do not report back the actual speed).
Although the temperatures seem normal, 76 and 51 rpm for the mentioned fans is far to slow. The slot intake fan of my late 2005 G5 turns at 1500 rpm and the backside fan at 1000 rpm all the time.
Did you check the new RAM in the system profiler, because that also could be the cause of many problems.
I'm sorry I can't provide you with a definite solution.
Success finding the problem,
Robbert

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G5 fans running and making loud noise before crashing

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Try a Safe Mode boot. Hold Shift while starting.
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E4000 Key switch fan failure

I have an E4000 that listed several failures in prtdiag associated with a failed PPS. The PPS in question was not working at all and I have not replaced it. Prtdiag is still listing Key switch fan failure and prom detected failure.
Any suggestion on what might be the cause?
Thanks
NEW PRTDIAG:
System Configuration: Sun Microsystems sun4u 8-slot Sun Enterprise E4500/E5500
System clock frequency: 100 MHz
Memory size: 8192Mb
========================= CPUs =========================
Run Ecache CPU CPU
Brd CPU Module MHz MB Impl. Mask
0 0 0 400 8.0 US-II 10.0
0 1 1 400 8.0 US-II 10.0
2 4 0 400 8.0 US-II 10.0
2 5 1 400 8.0 US-II 10.0
4 8 0 400 8.0 US-II 10.0
4 9 1 400 8.0 US-II 10.0
6 12 0 400 8.0 US-II 10.0
6 13 1 400 8.0 US-II 10.0
========================= Memory =========================
Intrlv. Intrlv.
Brd Bank MB Status Condition Speed Factor With
0 0 1024 Active OK 60ns 8-way A
0 1 1024 Active OK 60ns 8-way A
2 0 1024 Active OK 60ns 8-way A
2 1 1024 Active OK 60ns 8-way A
4 0 1024 Active OK 60ns 8-way A
4 1 1024 Active OK 60ns 8-way A
6 0 1024 Active OK 60ns 8-way A
6 1 1024 Active OK 60ns 8-way A
========================= IO Cards =========================
Bus Freq
Brd Type MHz Slot Name Model
1 SBus 25 0 QLGC,isp/sd (block) QLGC,ISP1000
1 SBus 25 2 QLGC,isp/sd (block) QLGC,ISP1000U
1 SBus 25 3 SUNW,hme
1 SBus 25 3 SUNW,fas/sd (block)
1 SBus 25 13 SUNW,socal/sf (scsi-3) 501-3060
3 SBus 25 0 QLGC,isp/sd (block) QLGC,ISP1000
3 SBus 25 1 SUNW,qfe SUNW,sbus-qfe
3 SBus 25 1 SUNW,qfe SUNW,sbus-qfe
3 SBus 25 1 SUNW,qfe SUNW,sbus-qfe
3 SBus 25 1 SUNW,qfe SUNW,sbus-qfe
3 SBus 25 2 QLGC,isp/sd (block) QLGC,ISP1000U
3 SBus 25 3 SUNW,hme
3 SBus 25 3 SUNW,fas/sd (block)
3 SBus 25 13 SUNW,socal/sf (scsi-3) 501-3060
5 SBus 25 0 QLGC,isp/sd (block) QLGC,ISP1000U
5 SBus 25 3 SUNW,hme
5 SBus 25 3 SUNW,fas/sd (block)
5 SBus 25 13 SUNW,socal/sf (scsi-3) 501-3060
No failures found in System
===========================
Detected System Faults
======================
Key Switch Fan failure
Detected Wed Oct 12 16:25:13 2005
PROM detected failure
Detected Wed Oct 12 16:25:13 2005
This is the original prtdiag:
System Configuration: Sun Microsystems sun4u 8-slot Sun Enterprise E4500/E5500
System clock frequency: 100 MHz
Memory size: 8192Mb
========================= CPUs =========================
Run Ecache CPU CPU
Brd CPU Module MHz MB Impl. Mask
0 0 0 400 8.0 US-II 10.0
0 1 1 400 8.0 US-II 10.0
2 4 0 400 8.0 US-II 10.0
2 5 1 400 8.0 US-II 10.0
4 8 0 400 8.0 US-II 10.0
4 9 1 400 8.0 US-II 10.0
6 12 0 400 8.0 US-II 10.0
6 13 1 400 8.0 US-II 10.0
========================= Memory =========================
Intrlv. Intrlv.
Brd Bank MB Status Condition Speed Factor With
0 0 1024 Active OK 60ns 8-way A
0 1 1024 Active OK 60ns 8-way A
2 0 1024 Active OK 60ns 8-way A
2 1 1024 Active OK 60ns 8-way A
4 0 1024 Active OK 60ns 8-way A
4 1 1024 Active OK 60ns 8-way A
6 0 1024 Active OK 60ns 8-way A
6 1 1024 Active OK 60ns 8-way A
========================= IO Cards =========================
Bus Freq
Brd Type MHz Slot Name Model
1 SBus 25 0 QLGC,isp/sd (block) QLGC,ISP1000
1 SBus 25 2 QLGC,isp/sd (block) QLGC,ISP1000U
1 SBus 25 3 SUNW,hme
1 SBus 25 3 SUNW,fas/sd (block)
1 SBus 25 13 SUNW,socal/sf (scsi-3) 501-3060
3 SBus 25 0 QLGC,isp/sd (block) QLGC,ISP1000
3 SBus 25 1 SUNW,qfe SUNW,sbus-qfe
3 SBus 25 1 SUNW,qfe SUNW,sbus-qfe
3 SBus 25 1 SUNW,qfe SUNW,sbus-qfe
3 SBus 25 1 SUNW,qfe SUNW,sbus-qfe
3 SBus 25 2 QLGC,isp/sd (block) QLGC,ISP1000U
3 SBus 25 3 SUNW,hme
3 SBus 25 3 SUNW,fas/sd (block)
3 SBus 25 13 SUNW,socal/sf (scsi-3) 501-3060
5 SBus 25 0 QLGC,isp/sd (block) QLGC,ISP1000U
5 SBus 25 3 SUNW,hme
5 SBus 25 3 SUNW,fas/sd (block)
5 SBus 25 13 SUNW,socal/sf (scsi-3) 501-3060
No failures found in System
===========================
Detected System Faults
======================
AC Box Fan failure
Detected Fri Sep 30 07:56:37 2005
System 5.0 Volt Precharge failure
Detected Sat Aug 27 23:10:31 2005
System 3.3 Volt Precharge failure
Detected Sat Aug 27 23:10:31 2005
Peripheral 12 Volt Precharge failure
Detected Sat Aug 27 23:10:31 2005
Peripheral 12 Volt Power failure
Detected Sat Aug 27 23:10:30 2005
Auxiliary 5.0 Volt Power failure
Detected Sat Aug 27 23:10:30 2005
AC Power failure
Detected Sat Aug 27 23:10:29 2005
Key Switch Fan failure
Detected Thu Aug 25 18:47:11 2005
PROM detected failure
Detected Thu Aug 25 18:47:11 2005

I don't know which fan I need replace and which fan is the FAN two, who can help me?
2970 fans are NOISY. So power it up and look for the one that's not spinning or is the most quiet one.

Keys won't light up and strange noises!

Hi everyone,
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Hi zarnd,
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When you go to enable the keyboard backlight, what exactly happens? If you go into System Preferences > Keyboard & Mouse are you able to check the box that's marked: Illuminate keyboard in low light conditions.
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Hi,
This has started to happen recently on my 2009 13" MacBook Pro.
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When it runs a bit faster, it actually sounds like a revving engine... while running at the same speed.
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Here is a video of the noise... (its still processing but sh
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MgFed4RMV-g

Replace the fans yourself, visit iFixit and other Mac places to order parts.
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HP 6340F CPU random Fan failure warning and shutdown at startups. :-(

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Hello astrobilia,
Let's start by checking your BIOS settings since you have already inspected the CPU Fan.
This HP troubleshooting article should help us
Error: CPU Fan Failed
If you are unsure about the CPU Fan settings or you don't see the settings. Navigate through the menus and reset the settings to default.
After resetting the BIOS try booting the computer and monitor the results.
That is the easy fix before we start looking at having to replace parts.
If I have helped you in any way click the Kudos button to say Thanks.
The community works together, click Accept as Solution on the post that solves your issue for other members of the community to benefit from the solution.
- Friendship is magical.

My Mac Mini was not sending a signal to the monitor. I powered down using the power button and now it will not start. When i power up I get a strange 2 tone sound, like a warning alarm. The fan starts, and the light comes on, but no screen

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Run the Apple hardware test to see what it tells you. Run the extended test when prompted, which can take awhile.

When I run multiple Microsoft powerpoint files at a time on my MacBook Air, it simply gets hotter and generates little noise (most probably fan noise). Will this make any effect on life span of MBAir??

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Theoretically, yes.
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>>How to contact MSI.<<

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Hello
at first check that you have no disk left in the drive.
According to Apple Support, reset SMC if the drive or the fan behavior seems not normal.
How to --> http://support.apple.com/kb/ht3964
If the drive produce an unusual series of noises after startup or system wake up from sleep, you may reset the optical drive as described below.
Insert a CD or DVD almost all the way into the drive. (until the drive want to start pulling in the disk)
On this point remove the disc.
Insert the disc fully into the optical disc drive.
Ceers - Lupunus

X220 complete fan failure

I've had my X220 for about a year now. At first, I didn't experience any problems with the fan, no revving up/down like some describe, and it was pretty quiet.
After about 9 months of usage, the fan started to get pretty noisy. As I also usually have a room fan always on, I didn't care much because the room fan overpowered the laptop fan.
Then, at about 10 months ago, one fine day CoreTemp pops up a message that my CPU temp is critical, I was just watching a movie with no background stuff going on. I've checked TPFanControl and the fan wasn't running. It was also not responding to TPFanControl's smart or manual modes.
I turned off the laptop, removed the keyboard and powered it on again. The fan would spin a few revs at pretty low speed, then just stop. I allowed the system to boot like that, and tried to start the fan with TPFanControl's manual mode. When I switched the fan from speed 0 to any other speed, I could see the fan blades to move just a little bit (maybe 1mm) and then stop again.
The laptop is on warranty, but I bought it in USA, and I live in Thailand now. Also this is my primary work computer and I didn't want any unnecessary downtime, so I decided to fix it myself.
I wrote quite a lot, those not interested in the disassembly story, just skip the next paragraph.
Well, luckily I decided not to sell my old Z61m, I booted it up to view the X220 Hardware Maintenance Manual: http://download.lenovo.com/ibmdl/pub/pc/pccbbs/mobiles_pdf/x220_x220i_hmm_0a60739_06.pdf
Using an old laptop, which one year ago didn't feel slow, after being accustomed to the new one, was really sluggish. Part of the reason might be that I recently installed Windows 7 on it (it's got 4Gb RAM in it, of which the chipset can only use 3Gb). By the way, one time I had my Z61m's fan become really noisy, too (but never fail completely), I did disassemble, clean and oil the fan - and getting to the fan was much easier than on X220.
On X220 to get to the underside of the fan, you have to remove the motherboard, the heatsink assembly is screwed to the motherboard from it's underside. That's wasn't hard for me, but I could easily see messing up some small component. To remove the motherboard, I had to remove the HDD, speakers, bluetooth module, WiFi module, mSATA SSD, disconnect a few flat-ribbon connectors, unclip a few regular connectors, free the wifi antenna cables, video cable from their grooves in the bezel, remove the bezel. And then the motherboad still wouldn't come off - the two nuts holding the VGA connector have to be removed. And when I moved to Thailand, I didn't bring my 5mm hex socket with me. So I had to drive around (I live in a small city), trying to find it. Tool shops, hardware shops, computer shops didn't have it! Well, a tool shop had a huge kit of 1/4" DR tools, I wasn't gonna spend so much money just to get one 5mm socket. In the end I could find a low quality 1/4" DR sockets set in a Tesco supermarket, for $2. But what do you know? The cheap sockets have thick walls, so the wall thickness doesn't allow it to fit around the nut (the laptop's case is in the way). Too bad I don't have a lathe... well here comes the drill to hold the socket and the angle grinder. Finally I was able to unscrew the nuts and take out the motherboard.
To get out the audio connector from it's hole in the case, I have to flex the motherboard quite a lot, I know it's fiberglass and strong, but it does feel quite scary (the narrowest part of the mainboard is just maybe an inch wide).
I then tilted the motherboard up disconnected the power cable (it's a bit tricky, but I think it's the most efficient way - some say to remove the LCD to do that! that's totally unnecessary), took the motherboard out and unscrewed the heatsink/fan assembly.
The fan would turn by hand or by blowing air into it, but wouldn't keep rotating as soon as I stop blowing. The blades are fortunately removable (just grab them and pull), I cleaned them and the insides with some methyl alcohol, let it dry, then put some TriFlow teflon oil in there and put the blades back on. I then put everything back together, and it worked fine. Assembly, as usual, is the reverse of disassembly. The fan works, and is pretty quiet again (I'd say about the same as it was new).
The fan is sleeve bearing. I think it's not a good practice to put sleeve bearing fans into laptops. When a ball bearing fan fails, it just rotates at reduced speed, with plenty of noise and vibration. Giving a lot of warning time that it should be replaced. A sleeve bearing fan can just stop turning completely, not making any noise to indicate failure. It's very fortunate that CPUs (and some other hardware) have automatic overheat protection (thermal throttling). I suppose Lenovo just had some temporary problem sourcing the necessary qty of ball bearing fans when they were producing X220, so they just put in an alternative they could find. I don't think they did this just to save $1 per laptop. In any case, my advices for X220 owners is, if your fan has become noisier than before, open it up and clean/oil it, better now than later. I would only advise this job to people who have straight hands growing from the right place, not from their ass (that's a saying we have in Russia). There is nothing really difficult about this job (first time will take 2-3 hours, with experience you can do the whole job in under 1 hour), but you have to be careful. There are a lot of small parts that can be dropped or damaged by static electricity. There are many screws of different sizes that can be mixed up (my advise is to use a small container with multiple compartments, and put the screws into different compartments, along with a piece of paper saying where does this group of screws go. Have to be very careful disconnecting the connectors, especially the flat ribbon type. No sharp or metal tools should be used for this task! Use only fingernails or something plastic. Also use care to properly align the flat ribbon cables when connecting (locking) them. It's good to take pictures of the whole process, especially things like cable routing. You'll thank yourself for this when putting it back together. The hardware maintenance manual is also pretty useful (might be not so easy to find the right info, though, have to read carefully). Print it or use another computer or a mobile device to access it when doing the job. As noted, you will need a 5mm thin-wall socket (any good quality 1/4" DR socket will be thin wall, while cheap nasty stuff will be thick wall) to unscrew the VGA connector. The nuts are not tight from the factory (at least mine were not), so you might be able to use another tool, but I think even the smallest needle-nose pliers won't fit there, there's really too little room between the nuts and the case. A sturdy tweezers with round ends (or cut off ends) might do the job, but I'm a believer in using a proper tool for a job, at least when talking about a $1000 computer (this is not very Russian of me, where a common tool for automotive repair is often a hammer and a block of wood; a saying goes: if you fail - use a bigger hammer). Obviously you also need a small-size electronics screwdriver.
A thing I had a problem with: the heatsink contacts both CPU and the chipset (which is common in notebooks), there was thermal compound on the CPU and a thermal pad on the chipset (I would say 0.5mm thick). Unfortunately I tore up the pad when removing the heatsink. If you're careful, usually you can reuse the pad. The pad is there for the reason that the CPU and the chipset surfaces are not on the same plane, so if assembled with just a super-thin layer of thermal compound (like you're supposed to for optimal heat conduction), the chipset wouldn't touch the heatsink and would overheat. Since I didn't have a spare thermal pad on hand, I used a thick layer of thermal compound (I used Arctic Silver 5, which is pretty thick consistency and not very likely to flow out of there) on the chipset. I also ordered some thermal pads on eBay, to have it just in case.
I haven't noticed any significant decrease in temperatures with the new thermal compound, even after 200 engine hours the AS5 needs for optimal performance. It might be cooler by a couple of degrees, but not by much.
I'm sorry I deleted the pics I took during disassembly.
Solved!
Go to Solution.

A .5mm layer of thermal paste will not do a very good job of heat conduction. There will be air bubbles. No matter how well you spread out the thermal paste on the CPU die, you will never get the kind of even, thin layer that you get with a new fan, which comes with lots of little dots. BTW, very small needle-nosed pliers work fine to start the VGA nuts. The first time I take a particular model apart, I tape the screws near the place the will go back using "painter's masking tape", which leaves no adhesive residue.

Fan error and excess heat on ENVY DV6t-7200

I have a laptop-
ENVY DV6t-1200, product#B6C70AV. Windows 8.1.
The computer is only 14 months old, so it is freshly out of warranty. I have been noticing unusually loud fan noise recently. It is not consistent. Sometimes it remains loud for my entire computing session. Sometimes it quiets down after several minutes, sometimes it is not loud at all. I'd say 75% of the time, it is loud though... And the computer gets VERY hot on the bottom left side in the area of where the fan vents are located. So hot that it almost burns to the touch after about 30-45 minutes of computer usage.
Just today, after waking laptop from sleep, I had a black screen with white text stating something to the effect that "windows detected the fan is not properly cooling the computer and may result in damage, etc.." I don't remeber exact phrase. I went to try to take a screenshot by pressing windows key and prt scrn, but the message page disappeared and normal windows 8.1 start screen appeared. The computer seems to be functioning normally. But the loud noise, the strange fan warning, and the intense heat lead me to believe I have a growing problem.
ANY ideas on what I should do at this point?

Hello Andrew01,
Thank you for posting on the HP Forums!
I understand you are experiencing a "system has detected that a cooling fan is not operating properly" error. This could be a result of faulty hardware, or a recent software implication. I apologize for the inconvenience but I will do my best to assist you! To start, please follow the troubleshooting in this document: System Fan (90b) error message on startup
Although the title of the document is "System Fan (90b) error message on startup", the troubleshooting steps presented are relevant and effective. I also provided this document because I believe this is the error that you witnessed, though it's possible that is isn't the same error. If those steps do not work, here are some other suggestions to attempt: Reducing Heat Inside the PC to Prevent Overheating
If these steps do not work, the hardware is malfunctioning. I would contact HP support, to verify what your options are, or take it to a local repair shop.
You can utilize this website to learn how to contact HP appropriately, based on your region: Contact HP Worldwide
Please let me know if you have any other questions or concerns. Thanks again for posting on the HP Forums. Have a great day!
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I worked on behalf of HP.

Strange static noise

I recently acquired a 17" G4 iMac, which seems to work very well. When I first got it the OS install was hosed so I wrote zeros to the drive and installed 10.4. After the install, everything functioned normally with the exception of a constant static, buzzing sound.
Occasionally it would go away for a period of time and then come back. It's one of those strange types of electrical noises that not everybody can hear. I've read so many discussions on these forums about noises that my eyes started to bleed and nobody seems to be having the same problem.
I replaced the HD about 2 weeks ago and ever since then the noise is quieter and not as constant, but it is still there. I'm concerned that it is related somehow to the graphics card because anytime I open a graphics intensive program (such as google earth or my dashboard) it makes the noise.
Any ideas?
17" iMac G4 Mac OS X (10.4.6)

My first thought, is that you might be hearing a cooling fan.
This idea is supported by the fact that you say it gets louder when loading graphically intensive apps. And, that the noise changed when you replaced the hard drive.
Now, that may not sound right at first, but here is my way of thinking:
The more intensive apps are going to demand more of the CPU. The more the CPU is taxed, the hotter it gets. The hotter it gets, the faster the fan spins.
My thought, is that the fan may be dirty. So, that could cause it's sound to be less smooth, and a little noisier.
Now, what's that got to do with the hard drive?
Well, you may have knocked some dust off of it while you were replacing the hard drive.
I'd go ahead and open the computer back up, and see if you can locate the fan.
Take some compressed air (low pressure such as canned compressed air), and blow away any dust you find in the system. Especially on the fan blades.
I haven't been inside one of the G4 iMacs. So, I cannot say for certain if there is more than one fan.
But, if I had to guess, I would speculate that you are hearing fan noise.
If the fans are the cause of the sound, and cleaning them doesn't remove the noise, then I would consider replacing them.
Sometimes the bearings wear out, and they'll get a little noisier.
But, with any luck, you'll find that cleaning the dust off the fan blades will restore a smooth sound.

"Fan Failure" and strange revving noise

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