Faulty Component

Hello.
I created two custom compoents for a small project. One of
them is "OddRectangle", and is no more than the title suggests,
just a rectangle with some special functionality. This one, when
inserted in the main application works just fine.
However, this component is planned to be only a part of
another one ("BetRow"), which comprises four OddRectangles. I
constructed this one following the same guidelines as the
OddRectangle component. But when I try to add this to the main
application, it doesn't show anything, although I know it
initializes (I used some alerts in the functions to make sure). Can
anyone help me with this please? Here's the code for the second
component:
http://pastebin.sekati.com/?id=Anonymous@22c0e-ddef7cd0-t
Thank you!

That was right, thank you very much! But do you happen to
know why Flex doesn't like percentageWidth or percentageHeight when
you create components? It would be quite useful for me. But anyway,
thanks a lot for your help! :)

Similar Messages

Faulty device

I have had service with Verizon since the end May of this year using the Jetpack 890L. It drops its connection on average a dozen times each day. Each time, I must switch the unit off and back on again in order to re-connect. All the computers in my household maintain a local connection with the device itself, but it does not maintain a connection with the tower.
I have called technical support 16 times, spoken to supervisors, and the manufacturer via the Verizon supervisor. I have received a replacement device and they have tried to replace the SIM card (in the store) as well.
The Tech support has told me this is a known issue with the firmware in this device and the only effective solution has been to place the SIM card into some other active device (other than the Jetpack) and then place it back into the device. My local Verizon store has no other devices that use this standard SIM card and neither the store nor the Verizon office is willing to receive my SIM card and plug it into an active device or send me an activated SIM card. My device still does not even show up as activated on their system. They're confused as to how I'm getting any connection at all. Of course, they have no difficulty monitoring my usage and billing me accordingly
I have exhausted all options at this point. Verizon will neither allow me to get a different device nor let me out of my contract. My only option, I'm told, is to continue to get replacements of the same device (which I have already done, and even though the faulty component is the firmware, which will be the same in each) or wait until the manufacturer finds the problem in the firmware and creates an update. Up until my last my last call to Verizon, I have been very patient. I understand that with any technology, these things are bound to occur. What I do not understand is if this device has a known issue and they are unable to fix it, why I can not get another device that does work?
Thank you for your time.

I'm speechless as well.

W500 broke down for no apparent reason

Dear all,
I have a W500 that worked fine for 4 years and suddenly started being faulty for no apparent reason.
I've searched the web and tried many fixes, but I still haven't been able to pinpoint the problem. At this point I suspect that the problem might implicate faulty hardware, though I am not sure. I would really appreciate any suggestions that could help me figure it out and (hopefully) fix it.
The laptop is a ~5 year-old W500 that came with Vista install but was upgraded to windows 7 after a couple of months. I made the BIOS upgrade at that point, but not since.
After trying to rescue it without success, I eventually reset the BIOS to default settings and reinstalled windows 7, and I am now able to use the computer but with many persisting problems.
Current symptoms
    Slow boot time (4-5 min until I can start using windows) with occasional failure to start windows (hangs for hours before log on screen, but without crashing)
    Initially failed to shut down, but uninstalling the dvd drive in windows seems to have fixed this.
    Black screen appears on two occasions during boot. (1) between the "please wait" screen and the log on screen, and (2) after logging after the "welcome" screen. Each stays for around a minute (I guess they also show on healthy systems but too short to be noticed)
    Windows is generally slow and prone to failures. Browsing windows explorer sometimes works fine, sometimes hangs for several tens of seconds. Launching programs takes an unreasonable amount of time (up to several minutes in some cases). Installing programs is incredibly slow and often fails.
    Initially, after reinstalling windows, it looked like windows explorer did not refresh itself automatically anymore: if I created a new folder for example, it would not appear until I hit the refresh button. Somehow, this issue seems to have resolved itself, perhaps when uninstalling the cdrom, but I couldn't swear.
    Booting in safe mode hangs after loading CLASSPNP.sys, which apparently is a recurring problem. In my case, after re-installing the OS it only hangs for 2-3 minutes and eventually safe mode successfully starts.
    Yesterday the graphics driver failed multiple times, which never occurred before (well, maybe once, and a long long time ago). The first time the computer restarted automatically, and the next couple of times the screen just went black but the computer was still running.
    Apparently I am unable to restore to factory state using the rescue&recovery environment. The partition which I believe to be the recovery partition (it has drive letter D: and no name, it guess this happened when installing the new OS) cannot be accessed from DOS (I/O error comes up, I am not sure if this is normal or not), and browsing it in windows explorer causes it to freeze. In safe mode it does appear in disk management, where is says 9.8GB, RAW, primary, healthy, 100% free space. Rescue and recovery environment does not start (perhaps as a consequence of this).
    Since reinstalling windows the fingerprint reader does not work, and the "mouse wheel" function of the touchpad is broken (looks like the drivers are missing, but I can live with that for now)
Additional details
As I mentioned above I've had this laptop for 4-5 years and it always worked properly without major glitches. Then one day windows suddenly failed to start without reason, although on rare occasions I was able to log in after a very long boot (which suggests to me that it might not be completely broken but just took forever to start up windows), but then it would also fail to shut down (hanged forever at the "windows is shutting down" screen.
Thinking back, the laptop did on rare occasions fail to start windows, but would always start the next time and never failed to shut down as far as I remember. Lately I also noticed freezing on some occasions, which at that time I thought might be related to the DVD because they seemed to happened only when the DVD was in use.
After many unsucessful attempts to recover the current system I reinstalled windows 7, and now windows is more or less running, but with the symptoms described above.
I've run chkdsk /F /R /B, sfc /scannow, and windows memory diagnostic multiple times, as well as several lenovo diagnostic tools (CPU, memory, optical, graphics and perhaps a couple of others); none of them returned any error (1 bad sector added to list by chkdsk last time it ran).
Questions
    Any suggestions/feedback?
    At this point, is there a chance it could help to reformat the entire drive and reinstall windows?
    In particular, I'm not sure why I need the recovery partition if I (1) it doesn't work and (2) I have an installation CD for the OS anyway.
Also, would it safe to remove the SERVICEV003 partition?
    I've read somewhere that to restore to factory state you need to mark the recovery partition as "active" - is this true, and could it be the reason that rescue&recovery environment does not start?
    Is it any use updating the BIOS at this point?
    Also, is there any chance that playing around with the BIOS config could result in a working configuration?
    If the problem is a hardware problem, how can I figure out which is the faulty component?
    Is it possible to completely disable, e.g., the DVD drive, without physically unplugging it (BIOS doesn't seem to allow this, and even though uninstalling it in windows seemed to fix the shutdown problem, I know that the DVD is still working because e.g. I can boot from it).
    Is there a way to completely disable one of the graphics card to check whether problem could come from it?
    I've been considering pulling out the HD and memory to check if there is any misconnection/dirty connector. Is is even worth trying (I usually try refrain as much as possible from messing with laptop's inside) ?
I will update if I remember anything important or if there is any major new development.
Thanks in advance for your help!

137 attempted reallocations with 6 currently pending. Your drive is probably on its way out.
Back-up your data immediately. You could try running SpinRite or HDD Regenerator on the drive to try and fix it, but chances are you should just replace it.
W520: i7-2720QM, Q2000M at 1080/688/1376, 21GB RAM, 500GB + 750GB HDD, FHD screen
X61T: L7500, 3GB RAM, 500GB HDD, XGA screen, Ultrabase
Y3P: 5Y70, 8GB RAM, 256GB SSD, QHD+ screen

[865PE/G Neo2] Instability With Graphics / Games

With AGP set to 8x in the ATI Control Panel, games crash about 15 minutes after playing. This affects not just games but anything that uses graphics. For example, even my aquarium screensaver crashes after 15 minutes.
Specs...
865PE Neo2 LS
Intel P4 2.6C @ 233MHz (3.0GHz)
2x 256MB Corsair PC3700 @ 466MHz
Antec True 430w
WD 40GB 8MB Buffer
ATI Radeon 9700 Pro 128MB
Audigy 2
LiteOn 16x DVD
LiteOn 52x32x52 CDRW
Windows XP Pro
I have found a solution but not one that I'm happy with. I changed the AGP from 8x to 4x in the control panel and it has only crashed once since and that was after my aquarium screen saver had been on a couple hours. So perhaps if I played games longer it would eventaully crash like the screensaver.
With 8x AGP, using an older ATI driver my games would just crash to a black screen. After updating to the latest Catalyst, 3.10, it crashes to the vpu recovery most of the time. I'm using bios 1.9 and this never happened before updating. The only problem I had before 1.9 was a couple times the computer froze and I had a colored box about 1" x 1" at the top left of the screen. I've reinstalled Windows XP though and haven't had that problem since.
I've changed my memory voltage to 2.8 and vcore to 1.6. AGP is 1.6 volts and locked at 66/33. Temps are the same at 4x as 8x so I don't think temps are the problem. My Radeon 9700 Pro is running at 55C idle and 65C under load. My CPU is running at 40C idle and 45C-50C under load. Performance mode is set to slow and Spread Spectrum is disabled. HT is enabled. I've tried setting my fsb to 200MHz and memory to 400MHz but that doesn't help so overclocking isn't the problem. I'm not overclocking the video card now and never have.
I'd like to go back to an older bios to see if that fixes my problem but I don't know how. I made a bootable dos disk in Windows XP but it can't see my NTFS C: so I can't access the bios files at c:/test.
Thanks for any help/suggestions.

After going back to bios 1.8 things seem to be stable for longer than with 1.9. Screensavers still lock up after a couple hours and that never happened previously. I used to leave the computer on while I was at work and when I got back the screen saver would still be going. Now when I get home the screen is black and I have to reboot. Tonight I noticed that it wasn't just solid black. It blinked between black as in no video and a dark grey color. I was watching a movie so I didn't bother getting up to restart it. It continued blinking for a while and then my lcd put up an error saying "This video mode is not supported."
I've tried both a Radeon 9600 Pro and 9700 Pro and reinstalled Windows XP and all of the latest drivers. I've set my processor back to 200MHz and set the mem to 2.8 volts and the vcore to 1.6. Still the system is not stable and I'm out of ideas. I would agree that it could be the Radeon 9700 since ATI says there is an incompatiblity but since my Radeon 9600 doesn't work in this system either I don't think that is the problem. I don't know if the motherboard is at fault or if the problem lies in a faulty component. Any advise will be appreciated. All I can think to do is start replacing parts one part at a time until I have a stable system. I think I'll start by replacing the motherboard.
Quote
Originally posted by REILLY875
I also heard that this Now applies to the 9700-Pro also..As this reply came from another members ATI Tech man> Dated Dec 24, 2003 at 01:10 PM reply
Hi David,
This video card has a know problem with the Intel 865 chipset. The only ati cards that work have to have a serial # with -30 at the end or higher or they will not work. Because this card is discontinued our supplier cannot gaurantee a -30 card as a replacement. We can only exchange for a different item within the first 15 days so the only thing I can suggest is to see if you have a friend that may want to buy the card as there is probably nothing wrong with it and then buy another one. Any of the new 9600 or 9800 series don't have this problem. If you have any other questions let me know. Thanks alot.
Ryan
I have now read in CPU Magazine a much More extensive article, and they are saying that they will release more incompatability numbers soon .......Sean REILLY875
It isn't serial numbers that end with a -30 but rather product numbers. I found the info online on how to determine if your card is compatible. The product number on my card does end with a -30 so it is compatible. Also this isn't just so with the 865pe chipset, it also applies to the 875p chipset.

Dv7-6165US laptop won't power on

Just for information, I have taken apart, and replaced many motherboards in laptops, laptop screens, processors, heat sinks and fans. This is the first time with a quad-core and have came across this before. I have reballed alot of HP dv6000 and DV 9000 systems and have got them back up and running.
Specs for the laptop will follow discription of problem.
What I have is a HP DV7-6165US laptop which will not boot at all which is a friend of mine laptop. I believe the battery to be dead and it does not charge when plugged in. The only light that lughts when the ac adapter is plugged in is the light right on the side where the ac adapter does plug in, usually that light stays on steady when plugged in-- on this one it constantly flashes. Nothing lights up on the laptop itself when trying to power it on, the light where the adapter plugs in on the side just keeps flashing, it shows no other life at all.
What I have tried: A hard reset, Taking out all power connections including battery, holding down power button for a minute or more plug back in nothing changes. I've bought and tried a new stick of memory, I've taken it apart and bought a new internal ac jack still nothing changed, I've reseated the heatsink and processor, and now I just tried a new board (used $200) on ebay and put it in to find out I still have the same problem. The only thing I can think of that is left is the heatsink and fan assembly or the processor unless by chance I got a used motherboard from ebay that does not work (new board $400). Does anyone here have any idea if the processor being bad or heatsink that would cause this problem--as I said the only light is where the ac adapter plugs in flashes and keeps flashing when ac adapter is plugged in (normally the light around the ac adapter stays on steady when ac is plugged in) no other lights flash when pressing power button Any help would be greatly appreciated TYVM!
dv7-6165us
Product Number LW460UA#ABA
2.4GHz/1.5GHz VISION A8 Technology from AMD with AMD Quad-Core A8-3500M Accelerated Processor
Microprocessor Cache 4MB L2 Cache
6GB DDR3 System Memory (2 DIMM) Maximum supported = 8GB
AMD Radeon HD 6750M s Switchable graphics
640GB (5400RPM)
SuperMulti DVD Burner
17.3” diagonal High Definition+ HP BrightView LED Display (1600 x 900)
Network Card Integrated 10/100/1000 Gigabit Ethernet LAN Wireless Connectivity •802.11b/g/n WLAN
•Beats Audio with the HP Triple Bass Reflex Subwoofer
Full-Size Island-Style Keyboard with Integrated Numeric Keypad
Touchpad supporting Multi-Touch gestures. With LED border accent light and On/Off button.
PC Card Slots External Ports •Digital Media Card Reader for Secure Digital and Multimedia cards •2 SuperSpeed USB 3.0 • 2 Universal Serial Bus (USB) 2.0 • 1 HDMI • 1 VGA (15-pin) • 1 RJ -45 (LAN) • 2 Headphone-out • 1 Microphone-in
Other Devices • HP TrueVision HD Webcam with integrated digital microphone • HP SimplePass with integrated fingerprint reader
Dimensions 16.38" (L) x 10.83" (W) x 1.24" (min H)/ 1.42" (max H)
Weight 6.65 lbs
Security •Kensington MicroSaver lock slot • Power-on password • Accepts 3rd party security lock devices
Power •120W AC Adapter
•9-Cell 100WHr Lithium-Ion Battery
What's In The Box HP TrueVision HD Webcam with integrated digital microphone
HP SimplePass with integrated fingerprint reader
Software Operating System: Genuine Windows 7 Home Premium (64-bit)

I am fully aware of which light you are referring to.
The document I linked to covers the flashing charger light on the notebook. In fact, nothing on the document references the light on the notebook. I apologize that my statement was not as clear as it should have been.
I highly doubt it is the motherboard or processor at this point.
Again, let me know if you have reviewed the document and tried the steps listed in the document for a continuously flashing charger light.
You have also replaced every other possible component meaning you would have been shipped a faulty component. While this is possible, I doubt it is the case. If they listed it as working, then they are held to that in most countries.
The document lists power adapter, but that is only the component being tested and not what is being referenced. It is essentially the notebooks way of saying "Hey, I'm not getting enough power".
AC power adapter LED
Continuous blinking
Power adapter
Insufficient power
Try a different power outlet.
Replace power adapter.
↙-----------How do I give Kudos?| How do I mark a post as Solved? ----------------↓

Screen Shadow (Macbook Pro mid-2010)

Hi,
I just today replaced my lcd (just the screen, not the whole assembly) because of an issue I've had for a while now with pink lines appearing on the screen.
After first replacing the LVDS cable without resolving the issue, I took the next step and decided to replace the screen.
Sadly, it hasn't fixed the problem either, but now I've noticed a new issue which is what I can only describe a shadowed section on the right side of the screen (see attached photo). It is especially noticeable when the screen is darkened to just one 'bar' on the brightness meter, while it's much more tolerable at full brightness. The attached photo just illustrates the affected area of the screen, not the severity of the shadow. The shadow isn't dark enough to impede reading.
Did I get a dud screen, or did I manage to foul something up in installing it?
As an aside, the pink line issue continues to be 'solvable' by applying pressure to the left side of the case, essentially around the left speaker. This leaves me wondering if it isn't a faulty component on the board itself, but my knowledge is virtually nil when it comes to the bits and pieces on the board. The second attached photo illustrates a component that I found to be ever so slightly loose when I was going through the motions of installing the screen. Can someone identify this piece? Does it have anything to do with the display?
Any insight into the problem would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks much,
FYB

I Have brought my mid 2010 to apple service, in hoping that they will replace my logic board as promised on the web support, i came out with nothing! they rejected 3 times, makes me wait for 2months without laptop, now i gotta pay for a new logic board $610. i Live in Indonesia. not much you can do when you live in the suburb of asia huhh. Thx APPLE !!

Temporarily freezing audigy 2 and firewire not working - sol

hi,
i had two problems with my audigy 2 using windows xp:
a) my firewire port didnt appear to work. i had only one device using firewire which was my creative jukebox zen. i could only transfer 95% of the first mp3 and then it would say that my mp3 player is not responding.
b) i experienced random and temporary freezes, not only while gaming but even when writing e-mails. everything would hang for a few seconds and then continue to work like if you write text it will appear after the hang.
firewire: i used my audigy 2 in my old pc with windows me and win 2000 without any problems. neither with firewire nor with the eax4 driver patch. under win xp i could only transfer mp3s via usb and that is slow as hell as you can imagine. i first tried if transfers using the firewire port on my mobo worked but it didnt, same prob. i found a fix from microsoft that is not listed in windowsupdate at http://www.microsoft.com/downloads/d...DisplayLang=en (KB885222). that did not solve this issue but maybe you need that too so I mention it here. then i found some new drivers on the creative site. "oh you fool, why didnt you say earlier that you're using old drivers?" someone might say but these drivers dont work or more specifically, its setup routine sux. it quits with "an error occurred". wow cool... but it appears as it unpacks the driver to c:\program files\creative\jukebox3 or something (note, i have a zen and not a jb3...) so I uninstalled everything, rebooted and told the device manager manually to get the drivers from that location. now it works.
freezes: it took me many, many hours to search the internet, but i found absolutely nothing. sure i'm using the latest drivers (yea they actually work), put the card in slot3 and stuff. then i found a post on this board that mentioned that this guy's audigy had a heat problem. it became too hot and hung. hmm. i have 2x 2cm fans sucking heat out of the box through the radiator of my water cooling so heat is actually mostly get rid of through water and whatever else produces heat (harddisc, video card ram etc) is cooled by some really strong air flow. so wth, this card has worked for almost 2 years in my old box. so i opened the case and saw that air circulation around the audigy was impossible as its sandwitched by two other cards. those parts that i was able to touch were not that hot but i dont know how hot the main chip became and i have no clue why a sound card can become too hot from playing an mp3... anyway, i have left my case open and since then i havent had any freezes. now i also know why the freezes suddenly appeared and not since after i setup my box 3 months ago: it was open until i had cut a hole for the radiator...
oh yea, its good that my expensi've creative stuff works and that it was not creative's fault but that of a moron of a user. now honestly, how is an average user supposed to get their product working when the knowledge base is totally outdated and gives advice such as "update your bios, get the latest drivers and dont put your card into the microwave", when mods in this forum give advice like the knowledge base and the driver is not even installable? creative products are not bad at all, they're not cheap at all too. but the support page is absolutely not informati've and the knowledgebase does not give solutions to known issues. i was never ever able to find anything useful there and i'm really really not an average user but a very experienced one. not everyone wants to use a pre-installed dell box with el-cheapo components. i like to put my own high-end rig together and things must be pushed to the limit BUT still be absolutely rock solid. let me list my recent experience with creative products during the past 2 years:
-) bought an inspire 6. surround system and even replaced my audigy with version 2 for it. but unfortunately the subwoofer had a problem. it randomly made a popping noise which was so loud that it pushed your adrenaline level to that of a base jumper. i then found out that the whole batch had some faulty component. at least i got a replacement within a week, so i thought "yea, great support".
-) bought a jukebox zen, 20gb with firewire. it worked great for almost a year. then it died. when i switched it on, only the creative logo appeared, thats it. recovery mode was inaccessible too. it took me 2 months to convince the support lady to let me return this junk. first they sent me a new adapter because maybe it was damaged and the battery was low and therefore it didnt work anymore... then i was told, ok you can have a new one but we dont have firewire versions in stock anymore. you can have a usb one now or you wait until we get the firewire zen again. i said wtf, you produce this so why dont you have them in stock? and the usb version is sure not an equivalent to my firewire player. woot after 2 months i got a new mp3 player... had to rip 250 cds again (i really prefer having originals) and copy them to the player, but ok, i'm happy again. no, i'm not. this one doesnt work properly either. everytime i dont use the player for more than 24 hours i have to rebuild the database and scan the harddisc. that takes about 0 minutes for like 3000 songs!! grr... but i didnt want to argue with the tech support about that, i can li've with that. maybe i can flash to an older bios if i find one somewhere. from what i read somewhere it is caused by the zen going from hibernate into "off power" mode and then it forgets a few things.
and now i had the two issues described above and had to find a solution myself because the support pages dont help at all. sure you can say i should have thought of a heat problem but all important components are watercooled (even the north bridge) and i had some good airflow in general, but not around the sound card. and who knows that the audigy is that sensiti've to heat and that a sound card even gets hot at all. i've never heard of sound card cooling... i'm not that disappointed about the quality of the hardware because it is ok imo, but with the horrible lack of quality of the support and the buggy driver installation. hey, you get free advice by your customers, think about that. they tell you by themselves what the problem is and what they think may cause it. sure many posts are just flames but you should take ppl here more seriously. and if other manufacturers are to blame then put a list together like: msi k8n neo2 platinum - in this case upgrade to bios .2 or in that case install this or turn on/off that.
alright, i hope anyone can use this information. sorry for the length but i wanted to describe things as precisely as necessary. cheers from austria.
(edit: a typo)Message Edited by Temujin666 on 0-05-2005 03:49 AM

Hi folks,?Initially my audigy 2 nx was not working. But after installing the drivers for vista it started to work. But unfortunately, the other application from creative media source is not working. When I press EAX it says '[color="#000099">the application with the device not found'. But the sound card is working fine.[color="#000099">?[color="#000099">I have even mailed creative with the details. They have sent me a mail with the drivers and an application driver. I have installed the application driver too, but still no luck.[color="#000099">?[color="#000099">Kind regards,[color="#000099">Jwell[color="#000099">?

Choppy video playback on my 1st Gen iMac G5

Everything from internet video to DVD playback on my 1st Gen iMac G5 is choppy and getting more so as time goes on. Can anyone tell me if this is a symptom of the defect that's covered under the extension plan or is this just some other problem?

Check the version in the Application Folder!
(I have had no problems at all after installing QT 7.5 on my G5 iMac in case you think it can't work at all.)
It is possible that something in either your pre-existing setup or your method of installing updates, are the root causes of whatever problems you are having with QT 7.5 particularly with choppy playback. Out of date plug-ins and add-ons could also be playing a part. Some users have found choppy playback to be associated with improperly loaded plug-ins and add-ons from third party vendors as well as those included by Apple with prior versions of Quicktime.
Third-party add-ons include DivX, Flip4Mac, or FLV components, while the included plug-ins are AppleIntermediateCodec.component, and AppleMPEG2Codec.component. The files for these are located in the root library, therefore a faulty component will load improperly for all users, resulting in choppy playback even when a user creates a new account. Some may need updating or just reinstalling to work with QT 7.5.
You should therefore:
Remove and re-add all quicktime components and plug-ins.
Navigate to /Library/QuickTime/
Move all plug-in ".component" files from the folder (to the Desktop, for instance)
Launch QuickTime and quit it again
Place the ".component" files back in the QuickTime library folder
Launch QuickTime again, and the choppiness should be better.
A few more things to try but in each case first close all applications and repair permissions.
1 Try opening then closing GarageBand, or launching then quitting the "Audio MIDI Setup" application located in Applications/Utilities. Failing that, go back to Audio MIDI Setup, and under the Audio Devices tab, make sure the Audio Output Format is 44100.0 2ch-16bit.
Restart your Mac.
2 Go to the Library on your main hard disk and find the Internet Plug-Ins folder. Try removing the following files:
QuickTime plugin.plugin
Quicktime plugin.webplugin
Restart your Mac.
Re-install the Quicktime 7.5 update
Go to Home/Library/Receipts and delete the file Quicktime 7.5 pkg.
Download from the Download page on the Apple site the correct version of Quicktime 7.5 for your Mac.
Install it and restart your Mac. Repair permissions.
3 If still no luck, it is time to look carefully at your plug-ins and add-ons. The safest way is to download and re-install all of them. The ones you need in order to see and hear virtually everything the web has to offer are:
RealPlayer 11 (which is no longer in beta) for Mac from:
http://www.versiontracker.com/dyn/moreinfo/macosx/15540
Flip4Mac WMV Player from http://www.microsoft.com/windows/windowsmedia/player/wmcomponents.mspx (Windows Media Player for the Mac is no longer supported, even by Microsoft)
Perian from http://perian.org/
You should read this support page http://perian.org/#support in case you need to delete older codecs.
Adobe FlashPlayer should first be uninstalled using the appropriate uninstaller available here: http://kb.adobe.com/selfservice/viewContent.do?externalId=tn_14157&sliceId=2 and then the latest version obtained from here: http://www.adobe.com/shockwave/download/download.cgi?P1ProdVersion=ShockwaveFlash and installed.
(You can check here: http://www.adobe.com/products/flash/about/ to see which version you should install for your Mac and OS.)
You should also ensure that you have downloaded and installed all the correct version for your Mac of all recent Security Updates.
(N.B. Security Updates require both a restart and a permission repair.)
In Macintosh HD/Library/Quicktime/ delete any files relating to DivX (Perian already has them). However it should be noted that Perian is not an internet plugin and will not play DivX files imbedded on a website. For that you will need the DivX Player browser plugin available from http://www.divx.com/divx/mac/
Now go to Safari Preferences/Security, and tick the boxes under Web Content (all 4 of them) to enable Java.
Lastly open Audio Midi Setup (which you will find in the Utilities Folder of your Applications Folder) and click on Audio Devices. Make sure that both Audio Input and Audio Output, under Format, are set to 44100 Hz, and that you have selected 'Built in Audio'.
Important: Now repair permissions and restart.
There is an additional 'fix' you could try if you are having problems with Flash and Quicktime, depending on which type of Mac you have:
On Intel Macs, make sure that you are not running Safari in Rosetta. You can check this, and change it, in the Get Info window.
On PPC Macs, go to the Hard Disk/Library/Internet Plug-Ins folder, and drag the file 'QuickTime Plugin.webplugin' to the desktop. Quit and restart Safari. If things have improved you can trash that file. If they haven't put it back, as the lack of this plug-in can cause QT content in some widgets to cease functioning.
If none of the foregoing worked, then you should consider and archive and install before repeating all of the above.

CD/DVD Optical drive appears and then disappears, replacement also does not show up

My laptop: HP Pavilion dv9601AU
I have read a similar post here but my problem is different. My problem is that the DVD drive *sometimes* show up in My Computer and *sometimes* dont. Even the BIOS does not detect it. When I formatted my laptop with Windows 7, to my surprise it was gone. But it appeared again and I somehow installed all the required drivers from my driver DVD.... then it dissapered again. It never came back.
Failed attempt 1: I tried to re-format the PC using virtual drive but the problem persists.
Failed attempt 2: Thinking it to be a physical loose connection, I took it to local HP service station, they removed the drive, put it back firmly, but in vain.
Failed attempt 3: They attached other similar optical drive but to my surprise, the new drive was also not detected.
Failed attempt 4: I tried Microsoft's "Fix It" thing and also read about removing "upper filters" and "lower filters" in registry. However, I didnt have any of those filters entry in the first place so no question about making changes to the registry.
Facts:
1) The drivers are installed. There should not be any problem with the drivers.
2) The lens is perfect. I was able to install all the drivers from DVD when the drive appeared for a short period of time.
3) The HP logo tht appears upon starting the laptop lingers for a longer period of time compared to what it was doing so when the drive was fine.
4) The boot menu does not show the optical drive.
5) I live in India where normal room temperatures go upto 42 degrees Celcius and my laptop gets much much warm most of the times. I think some damage has been done to the internal circuitry.
Please, if somebody can provide me a solution to this. How can I get back my DVD Drive working. The support personnel here are having no clue (especially after learning the fact that their new optical drive also didnt show up) I hope I get some guidance from you guys as what should I do next. Please help me.
Message Edited by jal_desai on 10-09-2009 06:51 AM

I am having the exact same problem with my customer's dvd drive sometimes showing up during boot (BIOS) and sometimes not. Also ran full system diagnostic software and everything else tests fine, although the drive is not showing present. I have also tried 2 different drives but they do the same thing. I would go on to say that if you always left the dvd drive out of the laptop, your boot problems would probably go away. This would then tell you that it's not your drive at all, but the connections on the MOBO or the traces (wires) connecting the drive to the MOBO.
I work on computers and have for several years and most times this is related to a MOBO issue since that is the only item left in this situation. You know it's not the drive since it's been replaced with the same issue so drivers/firmware are not the case. I am assuming you have already updated the BIOS as well, but this shouldn't matter. There could be a dirty contact, faulty component, or a bad trace (wire) on the MOBO which is almost always harder to fix and is better to just replace the MOBO. However, replacing the MOBO is usually expensive when you have to buy the part and then pay someone to install it making it not usually the best option. Even if it is a dirty contact, it was probably caused by something that was spilled which could cause problems later. In this case, I am probably just going to recommend disabling the internal dvd drive and buying a slim external usb dvd drive, and then saving their money for a new laptop. You will still have to wait through a slower boot while staring at the HP screen, but I don't think replacing the MOBO is the most economical thing to do, unless you are the manufacturer and have several laying around.
I know this isn't good news, but it is what I've found to be the case in my experiences. Anybody else care to chime in?

MacBook Air (Mid 2011) doesn't charge

I have a MacBook Air (Mid 2011) and it won't charge the battery when I plug it to the wall adapter.
No matter what i do the light on the L shaped connector magsafe doesnt light up.
After a few tries, a few minutes, or even a few hours it just works..and I don't know why, or what to do to make it work all the time.
I tried resetting the SMC (http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3964), followed every step, but it doesn't help.
I dont know if the problem is in the MagSafe Power Adapter, or if it is in the MacBook Air MagSafe Connector.
Here is a video of me trying to connect it to the Power Adapter without success:
http://youtu.be/3rRko1VncoE
Then 30 minutes later it is working again:
http://youtu.be/j4x3YxWZzAA
This time was 30 minutes, but there sometiimes is much, much longer before I get it to work..
What sloud i do?
My mac is still in the warranty period. If i take it to an Apple Authorized Service Provider (AASP), will they change the faulty component for free?
(Where I live, in portugal, there are no official Apple Stores..so i can't go to one).

joolsca50 wrote:
I also have a mid '11 Macbook Air and this exact same thing is happening to me with the charger. Tonight scared me because it would not start charging for a long time. Fortunately I still had battery power left.
Guess I need to go to the Apple Store
I did not have the same problem again..don't know why, but here is what I think:
The mac doesn't charge because it doesn't recognise the charger or the other way around..
Last time this happened I just let the computer connected to the charger, and the charger plugged in the wall, and left it there overnight. The next morning it was fully charged, with the green light on the connector.
After this, there was only 2/3 times that when I plugged the charger it wouldn't do anything, so I just started working normaly on the mac and after a few minutes it started to charge. That first time it took 30 minutes to start. On another ocasion it only took 2 minutes. And after that was just a few seconds. Now it is behaving normaly. When I plug it, the connector turns green after 1/2 seconds.
So, if you have this problem, try just leaving it there..while you work on it, or while you sleep. It seems eventually it will start working. In my case it "solved" the problem, as it isn't happening anymore.. (I hope forever..)
It's not really a solution..but if it works for you too, great! Good luck!

My Macbook Pro (Mid 2012) freezes or is slow to login

Hi, so this issue has occured for a while, but my Macbook Pro 13-inch Mid-2012 freezes occasionally on my login screen. A couple of things happen when it does this.
Either it freezes and there is no blinking cursor in the password box and I can't move the trackpad/if I do move the trackpad it just turns into a spinning beach ball for 20 seconds and then it finally allows me to log in. When I log in, for a few minutes everything on my computer is sluggish, for example going to my launchpad takes time and opening up applications takes time.
Or, it will do all of what I just stated above but it is preceded by a sound as if it were booting up from shut down (that mechanical disk sound that always happens right when you press the power button to boot up the computer) and then following this, the screen is brightened a lot and there is a white loading bar at the bottom of the screen towards the middle. The loading bar is like 15 or so transluscent white horizontal lines that become solid white to indicate loading. This may take a few seconds and then it does exactly what I stated in the previous paragraph.
This issue has happened for a while, and I'm not sure what the problem is. Please help! It's frustrationg to have to take 30 or more seconds to wake up my computer and begin using it.
I am running OS X Mountain Lion 10.8.3 on a Macbook Pro 13-inch (Mid 2012) with 4 GB of RAM and 2.5 GHz Intel Core i5 processor.

When I log in, for a few minutes everything on my computer is sluggish, for example going to my launchpad takes time and opening up applications takes time.
User Tip: Why is my computer slow?
What to do when your computer is too slow
Speeding up your Mac
It's frustrationg to have to take 30 or more seconds to wake up my computer and begin using it.
Check your System Preferences>Accounts>Login Items. Get rid of and/or delete all that you do not need or want.
==================
If you found no solutions to your problem(s) listed in the various Knowledge Base Articles see if the following suggestions are of any help:
Except for the keyboard & mouse, disconnect all devices/peripherals from your computer.
Step 1: Restart into Safe Mode by holding down the Shift key during startup. The comp will run a complete & lengthy file system check, then start up w/only the required kernel extensions & w/o running any Startup items that you installed.
If you are running OS 10.4 it will also perform some font finagling.
Try starting up normally again. If you are still stalling, restart in Safe Mode & move on to Step 2...........
Mac OS X: Starting up in Safe Mode
Step 2: Open Library>Startup items folder-the *root* level Library, not the one in your user name folder.
Look for potentially problematic 3rd party items such as virus scanning software components, etc. Remove 1 or more items to a location outside the Library folder, such as the Desktop, then restart normally & see if your Mac stalls. It it does, try removing all the items in the Startup items folder & restart. If all’s now well, place the items back into the Startup items folder 1 by 1, restarting each time you put one back. If and/or when the stall resurfaces, you just identified the faulty component.
If the above does not work, then it’s time to move on to Step 3.................
Step 3: WARNING-This step can be tedious-removing .plist files from the /Library/Preferences folder.
Remove the entire Preferences folder from the Library folder on your startup drive then place the files back 1 by 1 until you see the problem return. *The Mac will automatically create a new Preferences folder in the Library folder*
Alternatively, you can take half of the items out (all non-Apple .plist file, for example), restart to see if your Mac stalls, then move to a smaller set of items, repeating the process until the culprit is found.
Or you can use Preferential Treatment which is a *FREE* utility that does all the work for you.
Hang in there & good luck!!!!

Imac will only work in safe mode

This follows on from a previos posting where I had to reformat the hard drive because of file conflicts. Since then the pc worked fine for a while then suddenly froze and will only boot now in safe mode again. If we leave it on overnight it sometimes will boot normally the next day and work like this for a couple of days and then goes back to safe mode again. Its really annoying since we cannot print anything when in this mode. Is this normal for Imacs to constantly keep suffering from file conflicts like this? and how do I stop it?
Thanks in advance for any reply
Anne

Apparently Preferential Treatment is not seeing and/or finding something that is corrupting your system.
This is a long shot & very time consuming but you may wish to try the following (some of which you may have already tried).
Except for the keyboard & mouse, disconnect all devices/peripherals from your computer.
Step 1: Restart into Safe Mode by holding down the Shift key during startup. The comp will run a complete & lengthy file systtem check, then start up w/only the required kerenel extensions & w/o running any Startup items tthat you installed.
If you are running OS 10.4 it will also perform some font finagling.
Try starting up normally again. If you are still stalling, restart in Safe Mode & move on to Step 2...........
Mac OS X: Starting up in Safe Mode
Step 2: Open Library>Startup items folder-the root level Library, not the one in your user name folder.
Look for potentially problematic 3rd party items such as virus scanning software components, etc. Remove 1 or more items to a location outside the Library folder, such as the Desktop, then restart normally & see if your Mac stalls. It it does, try removing all the items in the Startup items folder & restart. If all’s now well, place the items back into the Startup items folder 1 by 1, restarting each time you put one back. If and/or when the stall resurfaces, you just identified the faulty component.
If the above does not work, then it’s time to move on to Step 3.................
Step 3: WARNING-This step can be tedious-removing .plist files from the /Library/Preferences folder.
Remove the entire Preferences folder from the Library folder on your startup drive then place the files back 1 by 1 until you see the problem return. *The Mac will automatically create a new Preferences folder in the Library folder*
Alternatively, you can take half of the items out (all non-Apple .plist file, for example), restart to see if your Mac stalls, then move to a smaller set of items, repeatingn the process until the culprit is found.
Hang in there & good luck!!!!

Problem with my x

yesterday i connected my stereo system to the card (via the headphone jack) to rip a tape. the stereo was also connected as a speaker system. after i finished ripping the tape and unplugged the stereo from line-in, i've noticed (or i just think i have) a change in the sound produced by the card. i tested it with a democd, it carries all of the frequencies (unlike my sb li've that didn't have any basses on the right channel when it burnt), but still i'm not confident about the sound. is it possible that the card's broken and gives worse sound than it should, although it still reproduces all of the spectrum?
i'm going paranoid, it's like hearing voices.
i can recall every note from the music i listen to, and the sound just... isn't right.
i have an x-fi xtrememusic.

Thanks--I restored defaults but now I'm getting nothing through the RCAs (as opposed to distortion.) ?Not sure if I haven't reset properly or if some previously faulty component might have decided to die completely

Cisco MCS 7825-H3 Powers On, But Nothing More

I have a pair of Cisco MCS 7825-H3 CallManagers, and due to repeated power issues on our campus today, both went down ungracefully went power was lost...and stayed down. So we have no functioning phones on site.
At this point, both MCS 7825-H3's will power on. The hard drives lights flash, then go out (like normal).e The fans spin up fast and loud. But I get nothing else. On the front of the device, the system health LED is solid green, the network LED flashes green with activity, and the hard drive activity LED is solid green. A connected VGA monitor displays nothing.
I am at a standstill...and am not sure if this is a hardware problem, a software problem, or another problem altogether. Anyone have any ideas?
Thank you,
Steve

Steve - if the servers are showing blank screen on monitor connected to console, it appears they are not even initialising the POST process. It could be due to a faulty component - could be CPU, RAM, motherboard..anything....
Generally with this kind of issues, you try to isolate faulty hardware, by rebooting without any component and see if it reaches POST. I would suggest open a case with TAC and I hope the servers have active maintenance.
On another note try changing the monitor cable etc. to rule out any issue with any cable or monitor (which i doubt would be the case) just to make sure and then try a reboot and see if you see anything on screen.
-Terry

Lenovo P780 suddenly rarely has signal

Hi! First of all, I read a lot of threads in this forum and no, those didn't help me.
I bought a Lenovo P780 in February, ROW version (if I remember ROW123 4GB), imei starts with 860. I installed a custom rom (I checked and it is for this ROW) and it worked fine. One day in May I noticed that I got no signal. Then it came back. Than it went away. It is still the problem of course.
I never dropped nor flooded the phone. I tried installing other GSM modems as people on forums suggested, I tried a lot but none of them worked. I was angry so I took it apart, and saw that the outer shell of the antenna cable was damaged, so I ordered a new one, but it didn't help. I checked the whole PCB under a magnifying glass so maybe I would find any sign of damage so then I can replace the faulty component (I have access to do that), but I found nothing.
I tried it with different SIM cards. Then I found out, that in the Settings menu in the about phone section you can see the exact signal strength (it usually says 0dBm 99 asu which is absurd). You can only access it when you have a SIM card in the device but when you are in, you can take it out and you can still see the signal strength. It sometimes finds signal, but it is very rare.
What should I do? I have no money to replace the motherboard, and of course I have no warranty. Is there a chance that my problem is software-based, or it is surely hardware stuff? What can I do?

I have the same problem. Have you found any solutions?
Both sims had full signal (cosmote and vodafone) and everything worked fine.
Suddenly one day none had signal. If I only leave one sim in the phone sometimes it has full signal, but most of the time low or no signal.
ANything would help. Thank you.

Faulty Component

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