Film van camera downloaden

Hoe moet ik een filmpje dat ik met mijn camera heb gemaakt op mijn I-pad zetten.
Als ik mijn SD kaart erin heb, kan ik alleen op foto's klikken en gaat het programma niet automatisch naar de filmpjes die op de camera staan.
Hoe werkt dat?

Rough translation.
How am I a movie that I've taken with my camera on my I-pad up.
If my SD card in it, I can just click on photos and the program does not automatically go to the movies on the camera.
How does it work?
Are you asking how to transfer movies from your camera to the iPad? With some cameras, movies don't transfer when you connect the camera to the iPad. Plug your camera's SD card into the camera connection kit. Then you should be able to transfer pictures and movies.
If that doesn't work, you can use a USB flash drive & the camera connection kit.
Plug the USB flash drive into your computer & create a new folder titled DCIM. Then put your movie file into the folder. The movie file must have a filename with exactly 8 characters long (no spaces) plus the file extension (i.e., my-movie.mov). Now plug the flash drive into the iPad using the camera connection kit. Open the Photos app, the movie file should appear & you can import.
 Cheers, Tom
Bent u op om te vragen hoe films overbrengen van uw camera naar de iPad? Bij sommige camera's, doe films niet overdragen wanneer u de camera aansluit op de iPad. Sluit uw camera's SD-kaart in de Camera Connection Kit. Dan moet u in staat zijn om foto's en filmpjes te brengen.
Als dat niet werkt, kunt u gebruik maken van een USB flash drive en de Camera Connection Kit.
Steek de USB-flash-schijf in uw computer en maak een nieuwe map met de naam DCIM. Dan je film bestand op te slaan in de map. Het filmbestand moet een bestandsnaam met exact 8 tekens lang zijn (zonder spaties) plus de bestandsextensie (dat wil zeggen, mijn-movie.mov).
Nu sluit u de stick in de iPad via de Camera Connection Kit. Open de foto's app, moet het filmbestand worden weergegeven en u kunt importeren.

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Bonjour, j'utilise adobe pro CS4 sur Windows 7. L'exportation du film sur caméra canon MV750i

Bonjour, j'utilise adobe Pro CS4 sur Windows7. l'exportation d'un film sur caméra canonMV750i, met en route le mécanisme, enregist s'affiche en rouge , le film ne s'inscritpas

Bonjour.
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Raw foto van camera Nikon D 610 niet te openen

Mijn naam is Peter,
Ik heb het adobe photoshop element 12 programma gekocht..
Ik heb een Nikon D610 camera. Als ik RAW foto`wil open van deze camera dan open hij niet de foto.
Wat kan ik hier aan doen ???
Vriendelijk dank Groet Peter

HI,
You don't say which version of Photoshop Elements you have.
You don't need to use the organizer. If you open a raw file in the editor, Camera Raw will automatically be loaded to read the file.
If you have Photoshop Elements 10 or earlier you need to buy a new version or use the free Adobe DNG converter.
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Can some of you give me some recommendations to a good HD camera for interviews / doc style work? Not sure if I should go with tape, hard drive or card. I'd like to have:
1) good quality
2) portability
3) easy loading to Mac/FCP
4) great audio
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I don't know how professional you need the quality to be. I've worked with the Canon GL2 extensively and think it's a great camera for the price. It's not HD, but very good quality. If you really want HD, I would suggest the Canon AH1. If you really want to stay under $1000, I'd suggest Canon and Panasonic brands. Look for a camera with 3CCD, a good size LCD screen and viewfinder, a good zoom (20x optical), 30p recording option, external mic connection, and easy white-balance controls.
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Kata soft camera case
Shure brand microphones
Places to shop:
for cameras: www.jandr.com
for accessories: www.bhphotovideo.com

Using plastic film that came w/iphone as screen protector

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It's purely preference whether or not to use a protector, but here is a link to some testing that PC World did that you may find interesting:
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Ipad 2 - ios 7.04 - films van tv die op pc staan converteren en op ipad zetten

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Problemen met video's van verschillende camera's.

Beste lezer,
Enkele weken geleden heb ik Adobe Premiere Elements 13 gekocht waarmee ik nu mijn eerste film aan het maken ben.
Tot mijn verbazing worden de films van de ene camera niet volledig in beeld gebracht in premiere. Het rechter deel van de film komt niet in beeld. Ik mis aan de rechterzijde van het beeld ongeveer 10-20% van de totale breedte.
Het beeld wordt wel over de volle hoogte in beeld gebracht. Aan de linkerzijde is ook alles zichtbaar.
De eigenschappen van deze film is MPEG-film, beelgrootte 540*576, beeldfrequentie 25, pixelverhouding 1,4587*1,4587.
De film komt in premiere in beeld met 2 zwarte verticale stroken links en rechts. Echter de hele film, het rechter deel komt niet in beeld.
Het beeld van de andere camera komt geheel in premiere in beeld. Alleen aan de linker en rechterzijde zijn een smalle zwarte streep te zien.
De eigenschappen van deze film is MPEG-film, beeldgrootte 1920*1080, beeldfrequentie 29,97, pixelverhouding 1.
Voor beide type films is het geen probleem om het beeld schermvullend te krijgen.
Wie weet een manier om toch al het beeldmateriaal van het eerstgenoemde type film in beeld te krijgen in het programma premier elements 13,
Of wat heb ik niet goed gedaan.
Met vriendelijke groet,
Henk Miggiels

Beste Romano,
Ik weet niet waar ik kan zien of camera 1 widescreen films geeft.
Hierbij de specificaties van een film van camera 1 (een JVC Everio memory camcorder) zoals weergegeven in Windows.
Hieronder de eigenschappen van dezelfde film als bovenstaand zoals Adobe Premiere Elements 13 deze weergeeft:
Hieronder de specificaties van een film van camera 2 waar geen problemen mee zijn:
Hieronder de eigenschappen van deze film zoals deze in Adobe Elements 13 wordt weergegeven:
Ik hoop dat ik u hiermee de juiste informatie gegeven te hebben zodat u een advies kunt geven hoe mijn probleem is op te lossen.
Met vriendelijke groet,
Henk Miggiels
Van: A.T. Romano
Verzonden: donderdag 29 januari 2015 1:38
Aan: Henk Miggiels
Onderwerp: Problemen met video's van verschillende camera's.
Problemen met video's van verschillende camera's.
created by A.T. Romano <https://forums.adobe.com/people/A.T.+Romano> in Premiere Elements - View the full discussion <https://forums.adobe.com/message/7142128#7142128>

I can't open my photo's in Bridge because the camera (Canon EOS D650) RAW file is not recognized?

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Beste,
Ik heb Photoshop CS6, maar blijkbaar wordt mijn camera Canon EOS D650 niet ondersteund.
Mvg,
Op 14-jan-2015, om 21:39 heeft Ronald Keller het volgende geschreven:
I can't open my photo's in Bridge because the camera (Canon EOS D650) RAW file is not recognized?
created by Ronald Keller in Bridge General Discussion - View the full discussion
Welke versie van Photoshop heb je? Voor die camera heb je minstens CS6 nodig.
Camera Raw-compatible Adobe applications
Camera Raw plug-in | Supported cameras
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I bought a film from iTunes but it only downloaded the chapter titles and no film

I downloaded the film Along came a Spider but all I got was the chapter titles and no film. £6.99 was then taken from my account.

How to report an issue with Your iTunes Store purchase

Films en series huren / kopen

Hoi,
Naast dat ik geen nederlands forum kan vinden een vraag weet iemand waarom ik in Nederland geen films en / of series kan kopen cq huren. Nu moet ik behelpen met rommelige downloads van het internet. Hopelijk weet iemand hiervoor een oplossing.
mvg Hans

De enige films in de Nederlandse iTunes Opslag zijn een paar korte films van Pixar. Klaarblijkelijk heeft de Opslag geen rechten in handen andere films in Nederland te verkopen.
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Cheap Camera Challenge with- a Barbie Camera

For those of you not familiar with the Cheap Camera Challenge, DigitalRev is a site that basically educates photographers. One idea that they try to communicate is that it is not about the equipment, it is about the photographer and their ability to create art from any tool they are given.
They have put toy cameras in the hands of great photographers with amazing results.
This time they handed a competant professional filmmaker a Barbie Camera with a 240p resolution, and told him he had to create a short film. It turned out a little silly and slightly adult themed, but some of the shots are really amazing. Stick around to the end of the video.
You might find this video worth your time.
For more about Philip Bloom, click here.

Years ago the use of cheap film cameras was popular for the same reasons they are used today as expressed in above post.
I guess you could say that the original Kodak Brownie cameras were an inexpensive way for lots of normal people to shoot stuff like vacation pictures and it was easy to do by following the instructions that came with the film and camera.
For a while the " Diana" camera was a popular challenge to artists and even became a fad for a while. The professional photographers would use the cheap Diana camera ( cost about 10 cents ) which was plastic with a plastic lens and was very easy to operate. It had a button you pushed and a leaf would kinda fly through the gate behind the plastic lens ( there was one spring like wire that operated the shutter ).
With film there is often a sheet of paper that comes in the box and it has info on it about how to use the film and process it and stuff like that. There are ( or at least there used to be ) pictures to show people how to expose the film.
Like there was a picture of
1) the sun
2) the sun with cloud
3) a cloud
4) rain
Something like that...
And THEN below each picture was a number ...like F 11, F 8, F 5.6, F 4 ....so basically you looked at the picture and then at the world around you...and matched them.
So if it was sunny out you set your camera lens to F 11.
Pretty simple....yipee !
So that was the " basics " of camera operation... Now the other thing that was real BASIC was the choice of what to shoot...and how to frame it. Nothing fancy about the Diana camera.. you basically looked through the platic viewfinder and pointed at something you thought was pretty and pressed the little plastic button. Then you had to advance the film or else you would stay there forever and just keep getting multiple exposures !!!! OMG.
I personally used my Diana camera so much that several bad things happened eventually. For one thing the plastic lens fell off and landed in the dirt one day. So I had to use elmo's glue and stick it back onto the camera. That worked out fine.
Then light started leaking into the body through the seams of the plastic door where you load film. So I had to put black paper tape around the seams after loading the film ( which was 120 size ). That worked out fine too.
To get more " professional " in my experiments with the cheapo camera I started to use a secret method of exposing and developing the film , in order to get a specific " look " in the final prints. I could do this cause I had my own darkroom and enlarger and all that stuff at the time.
This is black and white now...
Here's the secret. You overexpose one stop. That means that if you see a sun shining in the real world, and you see F 11 under the picture of the sun on your film info sheet... you open up one stop to F 8.
This is fun because a person starts to actually THINK about things instead of just using camera features on fancy cameras.
For example, a person learns that from F 11 to F 8 is twice the amount of light. From F 8 to F 5.6 is twice the amount of light too.
With shutter speeds the relationship becomes clear between F stops and shutter speeds. For example going from 1/250 to 1/125 is twice the amount of time. Now here's where thinking in your head really gets cool...with cheapo camera. Let's say a correct exposure is F 8 at 1/60
Cause now a person can see that when letting in half the amount of light ( from F 8 to F 11 ) you can change the shutter to 1/30 and you still have the correct exposure ! The difference is now the DOF from the changed F stop. So the plot thickens as a cheapo camera teaches us these things if they aren't known already.
The Diana camera made things easier than all that stuff anyway. It only had ONE shutter speed ( I think it was 1/60 , I forget ). So there was no choice about playing with F stops and shutter speeds.
However ( back to my secret overexposure method now ) there is a way to under develop film to accomodate overexposed film... and the chemical used ( developer ) in the case of black and white, has nice paper info sheets telling you all kinds of stuff about the developer, developer times and temperatures and basically tells you so much stuff a normal human would have no interest in at all. It turns out that you can under develop film so that the overexposed film comes out pretty nice. My secret developer was " Rodinol " which is made in some foreign country.
It gives you really grainy negative but sharp images and whites kinda " glow " a little bit... it is really pretty ! Not " soft " as you might think...you sorta have to SEE the print to know what I mean.
All of this stuff has been introduced here in earlier threads and although we are now in the world of digital it is easy to translate the lessons learned on Diana platic still camera ( film ) to the current digital world of still cameras. It can also be applied to motion pictures if a person keeps in mind that the film motion picture camera is based on a 180 degree shutter...
That means at 24 FPS your shutter speed is 1/48th sec. That is what some people refer to as " the film look ". Changing F stop and iso and shutter speeds are all related and some of having a good understanding of those things is by using cheapo equipment and doing the thinking on your own. Also, the same basics apply regarding the framing of shots and choice of subject matter.
This image below is from the Diana camera. I was in a pond when I took that pic, and I used my secret exposure / rodinol method. I was not bit by a snapping turtle , thank gawd. The Diana camera was not water proof but I bet you $100.00 it would have floated if I dropped it in that pond.
That's the other good thing about cheapo cameras. They are disposable !

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Hi there, I'm a non-pro frequenter of the Apple discussion boards, I know this is off topic but I'd sure appreciate some quick advice, I need a camera ASAP for a work project and I don't have time to do the research that I should I'm hoping somebody here can give me a concise answer. My choices so far are narrowed down to the Canon 30D, the Nikon D200, and possibley the Canon 5D can any one recommend which would be the better camera for image quality when used by a non-pro (although I do have some technical experience and don't have a problem using a camera in manual mode). Main point is the image quality at the end of the day, and also the better investment as a camera. Mostly I don't want to get an over priced dudd... I've heard the 5D is good but over priced - anyway.... any help anyone? I'd really appreciate it.
Many Thanks,
Miklos.

My choices so far are
narrowed down to the Canon 30D, the Nikon D200, and
possibley the Canon 5D can any one recommend which
would be the better camera for image quality
All those cameras and many less expensive others when used with top quality Nikon/Canon lenses are capable of providing excellent image quality when used with a (very essential) pro quality tripod and head plus remote shutter release (add $500-1000 for those if you intend to build a rig at the pro end of things). The 5D is slightly more capable of the best low light images in the group, but at a cost of more than twice as much. The lenses you choose will be much more relevant than the individual cameras - and should accordingly represent more than half of your expenditure.
The choice between Nikon and Canon should be made by handling the cameras in your short list. Hopefully ignoring the BS that salesman insists on telling you.
Main point is the image quality at the
end of the day, and also the better investment as a
camera. Mostly I don't want to get an over priced
dudd... I've heard the 5D is good but over priced -
anyway...
DSLRs are not investments per se as cameras any more than computers are. DSLR values will decrease over time, but they invest extremely well in your productivity as a photographer.
IMO since you are relatively inexperienced in this dynamic world of DSLR you should start at the $1500 range for camera body only and add high quality lenses. If you choose Nikon, for indoors architecture I recommend the excellent 10.5mm fisheye that using software can provide rectilinear images, the excellent 12-24mm, and a f/1.4 50mm. At the tele end I like the 70-200mm VR, but an 18-200mm would probably suit for photojournalism type shots.
If you choose Canon there are equally excellent lenses available. I recommend against third party lenses because they typically will not support all the features of modern Nikon/Canon DSLR systems in the future even if they do so today.
Note that although architectural is often shot with DSLR (including by me), highest quality architectural images are not created with DSLR cameras. They are shot with medium format film view cameras that allow extensive tilts and swings within the camera body. The use of such cameras makes a huge difference.
-Allen Wicks

Got my iphone 4s today but the camera has a bug that i cant find reported anywhere

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Achieving that gold-tone effect

Hi all -
I'll be trekking about 100 miles for a morning outside shoot here in Arizona. I need to capture an old town from a hillside, looking down on it.
My vantage point will be great, with the sun in the rear over my left shoulder. Unfortunately I won't know the weather conditions at the time.
I would like the finished footage to have that gold-tone effect. I'm not sure how to describe it other than a gold-ish hue to the footage. I'm sure I can post in the effect, but usually it'll gold-tone the entire scene, where I'm looking for gold-highlighting and a slight gold edging effect. I've seen this effect in a wedding video but have been unable to find the 'how-to' post on it.
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expeditonwest

Great story Bill. I do appreciate the work that went into it during 'those days'. To be honest, I'm more mechanically inclined than keyboard inclined and still love to 'rig' stuff, just 'cause it's stuff and not some vapor thing in a little electronic box. Bet you ten bucks to a cops donut that if a virus hit, your stuff would still be standing. If a fellow named NORTON (ahem) came by, you're stuff would still be working.
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LOL, so what did you think of the gold-toning effect?
expeditionwest

Can i return my ipod once it is scratched?

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Film van camera downloaden

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