Full Frame Images/Borders

I am using Photoshop Elements 6.0. I've shot an image which is horizontal, and am an trying to get the image to be full frame (square). I need to have the entire image shown so I know this needs to have a border on the top and bottom of the image. My image background is black so the border needs to be black to blend in; similar to a letter box format on a Cinemascope ratio move. Can someone please help me understand how I can get this border so that I can make a rectangular image look square? Ultimately this image will be posted to a website that requires only square images.

Tom,
I only have PE 3 so there may be some differences in 6. Perhaps someone will correct me if I'm wrong. You need to change the "Canvas" size.
Open the picture in Editor. Click on Image/Resize/Canvas size.
Leave the Anchor centered. Set the Height to the same as the Width. Select Black for the Canvas extension color. Click OK.
Bob

Similar Messages

Creative Cloud full frame image viewing

Is there a way to set a "default" to vertically center a "full frame" image when viewing it in MyFiles?
Currently it defaults to "top" position, which is not very pleasing when presenting widescreen 1:1.85 images.
Thank you.
(Chrome on Win 7)

Hi Claridgep,
I don't think there is an option for centering images vertically when viewed full screen. I tested on a Mac in Safari and in Firefox and saw the same behavior. This would be a good feature request/idea.
http://forums.adobe.com/community/creative_cloud_touch_apps/create-idea!input.jspa?contain er=4670&containerType=14
-Dave

Having trouble with full frame image

I want to make my image expand with the website and different screen sizes so it's always the full background. As you'll see on large screens it doesn't expand all the way and on the iPhone it doesn't as well. I've tried everything. I've stretched the box to both sides of the page as well as both top and bottom of page so you see the red appear around the box. I thought this would work. I've changed the page height from tall to short. I just can't figure out why it won't expand. Any suggestions?
as you'll notice at the bottom. I've made the background color of the land but where the water is it doesn't expand all the way.
as you can see on the phone it's worse and doesn't expand all the way
the site is www.montysbay.com/contact.html

Embed the image first:
[Embed(source="logo.gif")]
[Bindable]
public var imgCls:Class;
then assign it:
this.source = imgCls;
http://livedocs.adobe.com/flex/201/html/embed_082_3.html
Tracy

Time to upgrade to Full Frame

Team,  I currenlty own a 70D and a T3i with a bunch of EF-s lenses. My question is wether to upgrade to a couple of L lenses or upgrade to a full frame camera. Ideally I love to have a Mark III but a 6D is more realistic.   My budget is about $3500 I do real estate photography with some portrait side gigs on the side, no weddings or big projects.  Will it make sense to keep my 70D with some prime lenses for portrait photograpy? or go full frame is there much of a difference if i used a 70-200 2.8L lens on a 70D then a 6D?  your help and expertise is greatly appreciated.

Unless you want to get into really high end real estate photography, I'd suggest you stick with your 70D for now and start gradually changing your lens line-up, with a goal to build a system that will eventually allow you to add a full frame camera to use alongside the crop sensor camera. There are advantages and limitations with both sensor formats. I use both crop sensor and full frame cameras (a pair of 7D and a 5DII in my case, right now). I prefer the crop camera for sports/action and anything requiring longer telephoto lenses. And I like the full frame for landscape, architecture, portraiture and sometimes for macro work. One of the reasons I choose the full frame for portraiture is control over depth of field. Now, DoF is governed by lens focal length, working distance and lens aperture.... it doesn't actually change due to different sensor formats. However, in order to frame a subject the same way with a full frame camera, it's either necessary to use a longer focal length or move closer to the subject, or a little of both. Changing either distance or focal length will tend to render shallower depth of field. Conversely, full frame cameras can use smaller apertures before diffraction becomes an issue, so a FF also has some advantage for macro work or for landscape/architecture where great DoF is often wanted.  In generaly, there's a bit less lens selection for FF, though it's still quite extensive in the Canon system. This is because a FF camera can only use EF lenses, while your crop sensor 70D and my 7Ds can use both EF-S/crop-only and EF/full-frame-capable lenses. Also in general lenses for FF cameras will be larger, heavier and more expensive. It's most noticeable with telephotos, of course, but to some extent is true even with wide angle. IMO, on 70D a 70-200mm is a bit long for a lot of portraiture work. My most prefered lenses for portraits with a crop sensor camera are 50/1.4, 85/1.8 and 24-70/2.8. On full frame, my most frequently used portrait lenses are 85/1.8, 135/2, 70-200/4 and 70-200/2.8. Sure, there are times that wider and longer lenses can be useful for certain types of portraits. But these are what I use most often and feel are the most basic or "traditional" focal lengths for the purpose. Short telephotos generally render the most ideal perspective for portraits. Also, I mostly shoot candid portraits, not posed. Because that often means working with less than desirable backgrounds, I prefer larger aperture lenses that allow me the option to blur down distractions behind (and sometimes in front of) the subject. If shooting in studio or more posed at a planned location, with more control over the background and other elements, it would be different and large aperture lenses would be less necessary. Real estate photography work often calls for a wide angle and a lot of depth of field. With your crop camera, the EF-S 10-18mm you've got probably sees a lot of use. If you were shooting full frame, you'd probably want EF 16-35/2.8 or EF 16-35/4... or EF 11-24/2.8 (but that would use up most of your budget and not leave room to buy a camera to use it on). Tilt shift lenses such as the TS-E 17/4 and TS-E 24/3.5 II are also top choices for architectural photography. Compare size, weight and prices. Also, if you use filters a lot, some require larger (16-35/2.8 II uses 82mm) and the TS-E 17/4 and EF 11-24/2.8 both have stongly convex front elements that won't allow standard screw-in filters to be used at all. There aren't many truly wide lenses for crop cameras that are also FF compatible. The EF 11-24/2.8 is one of very few. The EF 14/2.8 II is another. So, to use the crop camera for wide angle shots, you'll probably want to keep at least one or two EF-S/crop only lenses. The EF-S 10-22mm is an older lens than the EF-S 10-18mm, but is a little better built and with more edge-to-edge image sharpness... it's one of the best ultrawides made by anyone... but costs about 2X as much. If it were me, I'd prefer the Canon EF-S 17-55/2.8 IS USM over the Sigma 17-70... but once again this is a "crop only" lens. For dual format purpose, one of the 16-35mm or the EF 17-40/4 might replace it better and be able to serve on both camera formats. I use a little longer 24-70 and 28-135 as my "walk around" or mid-range zooms.    6D is a nice camera and, compared to 70D, would be desirable for very large prints or for low light/high ISO shooting situations. That's because full frame images need less magnification for enlargement and use bigger pixel sites that capture more fine detail, both of which allow for bigger prints. Not that you'd notice much difference with 13x19 or smaller prints. And certainly you wouldn't be able to tell any difference at Internet resolutions if a lot of your stuff ends up on websites. Because the FF camera's 20MP sensor is so much less crowded than the 20MP crop sensor, there is less heat and less cross talk, making for cleaning or less noise in very high ISO images. The difference would be most noticealbe at ISO 1600 and above.   The 70D has a more sophisticated and versatile AF system, except that the 6D's can still manage to focus in one or two stops lower light (center point only). 70D has 19-point AF that's similar to original 7D, active matrix focus screen, and zone focus in addition to the all points/auto and single point/manual focus patterns offered by all Canon DSLRs. The 6D only offers the last to focus patterns, doesn't have zone, and it has a fixed (but interchangeable with a few types) focus screen. 70D's active matrix focus screen makes possible the camera's "grid on demand" feature that can be turned on or off via the menu, and which can be quite handy when shooting architecture inside or out. With 6D you can get similar grid in the viewfinder, but to do so would need need to swap out with a separately sold, accessory "D" type focus screen. In 70D all nineteen AF points are the more sensitive dual axis/cross type, with the center one enhanced for f2.8 and faster lenses. 6D's eleven AF points have only one dual axis/cross type... the center point... while all the others are single axis type. Either camera's AF system is probably more than adequate for what you say you shoot primarily. If you were shooting sports/action/wildlife/birds, the 70D's AF system would likely be more ideal, though... so I'd rate it as more versatile. The 6D's would be a better choice for low light work, though. 70D also has articulated LCD screen and built-in flash, while 6D has neither of those features. The 70D and 6D share batteries, chargers, memory and have mostly similar control layouts, always nice when using two different cameras interchangeably for various purposes. So, if it were me, I'd probably keep shooting with the 70D and work on lens upgrades first, then add the FF camera later. But that's just me. Your needs might be different and call for another approach. ***********
Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif., USA
"Walk softly and carry a big lens."
GEAR: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
FLICKR & EXPOSUREMANAGER

Viewing images full frame in iBooks

How do I enable images I have inserted in iBook Author so that when double tapped they go to full frame when viewing?
When I preview on my iPad, and double tap the image nothing happens.

Tom,
I only have PE 3 so there may be some differences in 6. Perhaps someone will correct me if I'm wrong. You need to change the "Canvas" size.
Open the picture in Editor. Click on Image/Resize/Canvas size.
Leave the Anchor centered. Set the Height to the same as the Width. Select Black for the Canvas extension color. Click OK.
Bob

How to create ePUB with full size images/pages to adjust according to device?

Friendly Greetings,
        I have been trying, for nigh on two months, to convert/create my 7 books that are in print into eBooks; with first publishing scheduled to be Nook, with Kindle on the eventually list. I am, sadly still working on just getting the first one published! And I could really use any assistance to get this figured out. My intent was to publish several weeks ago...now my desperation is to publish before the weather gets too warm and kids are outside most of the time...or at least no later than Easter. :0)
        First and foremost, my books are picture/poetry books for kids of all ages. They were fully designed in Photoshop, where I also created the full size images for the first eBook. I received the specifications from B&N for the various Nook devices. Under the assumption that it would be best to create the largest of the files, thus allowing smaller sized devices to adjust the page accordingly to fit and the largest would not overstretch a smaller image, I sized my pages to 1280px x 1920px at 72dpi. (now I hear 150 is standard??)
        My text is included within the image as the design is one image = one page. I included a full text only version of the story/poem at the end for those wishing to adjust text or use a voice reader. I obviously have all the original files, but for publishing they were all saved as JPGs.
        After quite a struggle and a whole lot of frustration I managed to complete the manuscript in Barnes and Noble's Nook Press Manuscript Editor. My internet is molasses and thus much of this was done in the wee hours of the morning when the rest of the time zone is asleep. I only had one page with an issue, of an extra blank line/space that was irreparable. I published, and found it was completely botched in publish, though the preview looked a-okay. Only about the top left 1/6 of each image/page was visible in either my laptop's Nook for PC or my Android Tablet's Nook App. So I agonizingly awaited another 10 hours, hoping no one would buy my book during that time, for it to be removed from sale.
        I downloaded a trial of InDesign CC, and after two weeks of not even being able to create a single new document for some screwy reason, I bought a month's subscription. So far I'm not entirely convinced of this whole Creative Cloud malarkey, especially considering...as like I said my internet is slow...it took me nearly 20 hours just download the software. (Is it really that difficult to offer disc, seriously?) After a chat and phone call I can, in theory, now use InDesign.
        I created a New Document for Digital Publishing at the aforementioned specs (1280 x 1920 px). I made the rectangle placeholders the full size of the page, and place one image per page. This usually inserted the image at about 50% and I would have to select 100% and then move as necessary in to place.
        Thus, my first question is: Is there a way to place an image at 100% without having to do that extra resizing step? Or if there is an alternative way to place the image to the full size of the page without any of those other steps that would be lovely too.
        Okay, after placing several pages/images I also selected each and went to Object Export Options and Checking the Custom Rasterization and "Resize to Text Flow". I then exported a trial ePUB to see what it would look like. On both the PC and Tablet in landscape mode it was a far cry better than the other, but about oh a 1/3 of the bottom of each page was cut off. On the tablet I rotated to portrait and voila full page. Woohoo! But alas, I don't want to limit it.
        Is there something I am doing wrong? Did I miss a step or two somewhere so that the full image will fit on the page? I feel like I'm just about to turn the page on this thing, but it's stuck to the one after that.
        I would greatly appreciate any insight, tips, help that anyone can offer. I have run the gauntlet of Barnes and Noble...cough, cough...support and apparently I ask questions which no Nook Press rep can answer and the forums over there have no clue about InDesign. It's almost as if with all the fantastic beautiful screens out there today nobody wants picture books! How does National Geographic do it?!
        Thank you very kindly.
In case it is necessary: My laptop uses Window 7 Pro 64-bit, InDesign CC is 64-bit and my 10.1 tablet uses Android. I can view the EPUB files in Nook for PC and Nook for Android. I also have Kindle, LumiRead, and various other apps on the tablet. I can also have someone preview the finished epub, if need, on a Mac, iPad, and/or Android phone...though I do not have any of these. Not sure who has a Nook I can look at though. Thanks again.

Q: Is there a way to place an image at 100% without having to do that extra resizing step?
I think here you want your images to fit in the full page size frame automatically. For this you can try the follwoing steps:
1. Create a new doc
2. Goto Object menu and choose Frame fitting options
3. Select Autofit and from Fitting drowdown, select "Fit content to frame". Refer the screenshot below:
After this you images should automatically fit in the entire page placeholder frames. Please let me know if this does not work or if the problem you are facing is different and I did not understand your problem correctly.
Regards,
Pooja

Has anyone experienced this problem: I am editing in FCP 7.0.3 on a Mac 10.6.8 - I have a clip in the browser that is full frame and matched the other clips but when I drop it in the time line it becomes a fully zoomed in version of itself

has anyone experienced this problem: I am editing in FCP 7.0.3 on a Mac 10.6.8 - I have a clip in the browser that is full frame and fine and it matches the other clips in my bins but when I drop it into the time line it becomes a fully zoomed in version of itself and I can only see a small portion of the image. What's going on? I've noticed this has happened in the past randomly with other clips and it's driving me cray cray! Any help appreciated greatly and thanks in advance for taking the time

In the FCP Browser, click on the source clip that is showing up sized incorrectly to select it. Once it is selected, type Command + 9 to see the item properties for the clip. Either report those properties here, or take a screen shot of the item properties and post the screen shot here.
Next, click anywhere in your sequence timeline and then type Command + 0 {zero} to see your sequence settings. Either report those settings or take a screen shot of the sequence settings and post that screen shot here.
MtD

IPhoto Full page Images

Hi, I want to merge photos in photoshop and then import into a iPhoto Book as a full page image but every time I do this it crops the picture.
Does anyone know the dimensions I should be using so that the image I create will fit the book's full page without cropping?
Thanks

For a full page photo the image should be cropped to the same size ratio as the page, i.e. 8.5:11 or 1:1.3. When the photo is added to the full page layout it should fit into the frame without any cropping. Most other frames are in the 4:3 size ratio which is about the same: 1:1.33.
Or you can Command (right) - click on the image on the page and select Fit Photo to Frame from the contextual menu. This will shrink the photo until it if fully presented in the frame without cropping but will not be edge to edge.
The following is an image from an iPhone with the size ration 1.338 in a full page layout:
This is after fitting the photo to the frame:
If the page background is set to black the two areas at the top and bottom won't be that obvious. It all depends on what's in the photo, however.
OT

Profiles created for Full Frame on APSC?

Does CameraRaw account for the crop factor when applying a full frame profile to an APSC camera? Example - there is an a900 (full frame) + Sony 50mm 1.4 included with CameraRaw, will it account for the crop if I apply it to my a700 images? I know the simple answer is to try the profile and see how it looks, but it makes me more comfortable to know how its actually applying.
Thanks!
Greg

Hi Greg, yes, Photoshop, Camera Raw, and Lightroom all do this automatically. They recognize the crop sensor of the A700 and hence will "scale" the correction level appropriately. Same goes for other makes and models (e.g., Canon 1.3x and 1.6x crop bodies, Nikon 1.5x crop bodies, etc.).

T3i sensor size vs. full frame and how does that effect lens measurements?

I am new to both photography and the T3i camera. I have been reading Jeff Revell's book "Canon EOS Rebel T3i / 600D: From Snapshots to Great Shots". In chapter two he talks about "Lenses and Focal Lengths". In discussing wide-angle lenses he says
"As for which lenses would be considered wide angle, anything 35mm or smaller could be considered as wide."
Latter he discusses normal lenses and says
"The normal lens for full-frame and 35mm cameras is the 50mm lens, but for the T3i it is more in the neighborhood of a 35mm lens."
I understand that there is a 1 / 1.6 ratio between the T3i and a Full Frame camera. In the first quote does the 35mm refer to the T3i measurement or a full frame measurement?
Is there a standard nomenclature to indicate if you are specifying a "full frame" value verses the T3i value? If so, what is it?
When I look at one of my lenses, say the 18-55mm lens, is this the T3i measurement or the standard full frame?
Thanks in advance for your assistance.
--Jesse
P.S. I could not find a publisher’s forum for this book or I would have asked the question there.

Jesse-T3i wrote:
"As for which lenses would be considered wide angle, anything 35mm or smaller could be considered as wide."
In the first quote does the 35mm refer to the T3i measurement or a full frame measurement?
Is there a standard nomenclature to indicate if you are specifying a "full frame" value verses the T3i value? If so, what is it?
When I look at one of my lenses, say the 18-55mm lens, is this the T3i measurement or the standard full frame?
The fast answers are:
When he mentions the 35mm as the basis for determining what's "wide" he is referring to the APS-C crop-frame size sensor.
There is no nomenclature to indicate if you are "full frame" vs. "crop frame" on a lens because all lenses are reported in true focal lengths. There is a nomenclature to indicate if the lens was designed to only project an image circle onto the sensor which is large enough for "crop frame" ... which is what the "EF-S" lens is. If the lens is for "full frame" (which also works on all crop-frame) then it will have the designation "EF" for most lenses, but Canon also has a few specialty lenses such as the "TS-E" (tilt shift) and "MP-E" (macro photo) lenses which also provide full-frame sensor coverage. Incidentally... this is just Canon's way of tagging a lens... Nikon uses the terms "FX" and "DX" (for full frame and crop frame respectively). Everyone has their own tag. Just remember that focal lengths reported are true (well... there's a TINY bit of round-off allowed) and ignore the sensor size.
Here's the background which may help you understand why this is.
The "normal" focal length is based on the human eye, and to understand it, it's easier to think in terms of "angle of view" rather than "focal length."
If you sit and stare straight ahead without moving your eyes or head to "look around", there is an area of vision that the average person can see (and it does vary), but the "angle of view" for that area is about 40 degrees (horizontally). Of course our vision doesn't present our brain with a nice little rectangular image... it fades and is irregular, but it's generally accepted that the angle of view covers about 40 degrees.
The LENS that provides 40 degree angle of view coverage on a "full frame" camera turns out to be a 50mm lens. Images taken with such a lens will seem neither stretched out nor compressed... they'll seem "normal" to your brain. Also, if you can see an object without having to look around to take in the view, then your camera can "see" it with that lens.
A "full frame" camera is one which has a sensor size which is approximately the same as a single frame of 35mm film. The dimensions are roughly 36mm x 24mm.
There are many different crop frame sizes, but for DSLR cameras, the most popular (by far) is the APS-C size. This means the sensor is roughly the same size as a single frame for the "Advanced Photo System - Classic" film. You can think of this as being roughly 21mm x 14mm (although it varies by a just a few millimeters -- on your camera it's really 22.3 x 14.9mm).
If you were to use a movie projector and movie screen and you projected an image so that it fit perfectly on a 12' x 8' screen and called that "full frame", then a "crop frame" would be derived by shriking the movie screen down to about 8' wide by about 5-1/3' tall but (and here's the key) without doing ANYTHING to the movie projector. Essentially that means you're projecting an image intended to fit ona 12x8' screen... but the real screen is smaller. What happens to the part of the image that doesn't fit on the screen? It just spills off the sides and is lost. That is EXACTLY what happens inside a crop-frame camera.
Canon EOS "EF" lenses are designed to project an image large enough to fill a full-frame sensor ... so when used on a crop-frame camera some of that image just spills off the sides. This means that if your lens was providing a 40 degree angle of view (measured horizontally) then the crop-frame is only capturing the 26 degrees in the middle of it. If you want a 40 degree angle of view again... you'll need to change lenses.
And this is where your author suggests a 35mm lens is "normal" for a camera with an APS-C body. The math actually works out in the neighborhood of a 31mm lens, but nobody actually makes a 31mm lens... and a 35mm focal length (commonly available) is pretty close. Also 28mm lenses are commonly available and are ALSO pretty close. It's my personal opinion that 28mm is probably a bit more normal than 35mm, but that's because as an avid amateur astronomer, I am fairly used to looking through Plossl design eyepieces which provide a 50 degree apparent angle of view and my eye actually can see the edges of the frame, but if I go a bit wider... I can no longer see the edges of the field without "looking around" (regardless... 40 degrees seems to be the established norm and THAT is the value that everything is based on.)
For purposes of buying lenses, the focal lengths are NOT converted or adjusted in any way. For example, Canon makes "EF-S" lenses designed specifically to work with their crop-frame bodies. So when the kit lens that comes with the camera says it is a zoom with an 18-55mm focal length range... it really is 18-55mm regardless of sensor size. (Canon isn't multiplying or dividing focal lengths and putting a different value on the box just because it's intended for a crop-sensor camera.)
Hope this helps.
Regards,
Tim
Tim Campbell
5D II, 5D III, 60Da

Project not showing full frame in a compound clip

Hi Folk;
I am finishing my first project in FCPX (10.0.9) . Overall everything went very well.
I had another editor start the project on another computer.
I copied the event to my iMac and continued the edit. No problems until I exported the project for the client review.
I have a compound clip with mixed footage and a storyline and connected clips that I have used in a project with several compound clips.
I can play this particular compound clip fine and all the video displays fine. (see picture #2)
I lay the this Compound clip into the project and I get less than full frame out in my "storyline" elements - especially after the orange render bar disappears -
I sent the client a version with the "drop out" video (see first pix below where image does not reveal full frame ) and have spent a few hours looking for a cause for my issue. I am wondering if I am the only one dealing with this.
I have created a work around - exported the compound clip and reimport it as a full clip and layed it into the timeline.
The setting for the compound clip are XDCAM sony and the footage that is at issue is AVCHD from a panasonic.
I have several events providing footage for the compound clip
The project has seveal compound clips from different events
The event folder I created seems to be where the issue lives. or maybe the render -
I am using orginal footage not proxies.
I want to avoid this in the future so any insight is helpful.
I feel I have made a mess of my first project and want to clean up any bad habit that may be causing my problem.
Thanks for the opportunity to diagnos this.
I am sure this is as clear as mud.
Cheers!

when you first create a new project, FCPX *can* be set to accept "Automatic Settings" -- basically, it will take the properties of the first clip dropped in the storyline. This can be very convenient if you know the media will be all the same, or you know how to manipulate the "first drop".
If you know the format you want your project to be, it's better to set that up manually when you start a new project (Advanced Options). When you apply your media to the storyline, FCPX will conform the media to the project settings. It doesn't always work perfectly (due to custom or proprietary differences in file formats for the containers holding the media.) For instance, one of my older (SD) camcorders produces "Samsung AVC" (from Get Info on the file) and FCPX simply will not recognize the anamorphic footage.
Anyway, so, yes, I would suspect the 1440x1020 footage might be problematic. (Are you sure it's 1020?? or did you mistype? If it's actually 1080, it still might be giving you problems. All of my 1440 footage requires manually adjusting the width by 133.33%).
You can force a change for your project by clicking going out into the Project Library and with your project selected, you should see a wrench icon at the bottom right of the inspector. Click that and adjust your project settings (you cannot change the frame rate once a project is started, but you can change just about everything else.) Once you get the format set up (and you go back into your project), then you'll know which clips will need to be adjusted. If you have footage that won't fit the frame, you will probably need to go into the video tab > Transform, turn down the Scale disclosure triangle and adjust the X scale (usually) and Y scale (only if necessary.) If the footage you need to conform is SD, there is an Anamorphic Override option available in Info > Settings.
About compound clips... FCPX tries to guess a format based on "common" properties. If you're creating compound clips with mixed media - Use Custom Settings and set the properties to be the same as the project format.
HTH

Lenses for full frame vs aps-c cameras.

101 question here- how does one differentiate the lenses between the full frame sensor cameras and the others? I come from the cinematography side, picked up a 6D for starters and am trying to figure out what the lens options are. Thanks

There are two sensor sizes in Canon digital cameras sold today (there was a third, but that's no longer offered.)
A "full frame" camera (like a 1D X, 5D III, or 6D) are so named because the physical size of the sensor is roughly the same size as a single frame of 35mm film. That's about 36mm wide by about 24mm tall.
An "APS-C" camera (all Rebel series, midrange bodies like 60D, and 70D, as well as the 7D) are so named because the physical size of the sensor is roughly the same size as a single frame of APS-C film (APS-C = Advanced Photo System - Classic size). This film was a little smaller than 35mm... the frame measures roughly 22mm wide by about 15mm tall. It has a 60% (1.6x) crop factor.
The EF-S lenses project an image circle into the camera body which is large enough to fill the size of an APS-C sensor, but will not quite fill the frame of a "full frame" sensor. You'd get vignetting and the image quality would degrade substantially near the edges and corners. But possibly even more important that that... a "full frame" mirror is physically larger and requires more clearance to swing clear of the light path when taking an exposure. The EF-S lenses have a shorter back-focus distance and the rear-most lens element is so close that the mirror would strike the rear-element. As such, Canon designed the mount of the full-frame bodies such that the EF-S lenses wont even mount flush to the body.
In short, Canon "EF-S" lenses will only work with Canon cameras that have APS-C size sensors (well.. with the single exception of the old EOS 10D which hasn't been made in ages.)
Canon "EF" lenses will work on every Canon EOS camera... film or digital... regardless of sensor size.
Tim Campbell
5D II, 5D III, 60Da

Did you know Firefox 4 does not support full frame option in iPlayer or similar?

Both at home & work - using Mac OS 10.5 & 10.6 Firefox 4 will not allow me to view full frame video stream such as BBC iPlayer, 4OD, ITV Player, TVCatchup ....etc, etc.
I have now switched to using Safari & Chrome (which work perfectly) but in the interest of your 'going forward' I thought you'd like to know of this glitch.
All the best

I have Firefox 5.0.1 and the coupon printer I'm trying to use is supported by ActiveX. It appears that 5.0.1 is not compatible with ActiveX. Can you tell me how I can access this installation to print my coupons with Firefox, please? Thanks!

How can I print a full frame photo from iPhoto 11? Even though I click on scale to fit paper size, it crops both ends of the photo in landscape set up. I have an Epson R1800 with the latest drivers.

How can I print a full frame photo from iPhoto 11? Even though I click on scale to fit paper size, it crops both ends of the photo in landscape set up. I have an Epson R1800 with the latest drivers. (I'm also 3 days new to iMac and iPhoto 11 from an eMac and iPhoto 6.)

" Hello Jeff. Here at Oki Data, we do not support programming. I would recommend contacting Adobe for further assistance. You can also browse their website at http://www.adobe.com/products/postscript/.

In the slide show view how can you pin the "next" Arrow to the ultimate edge so it is in the same place as the full screen image, it will pin to the left edge but not the right.

In the slide show view how can you pin the "next" Arrow to the ultimate edge so it is in the same place as the full screen image, it will pin to the left edge but not the right.

Hello,
Please make sure that the next button is pinned to the right side as there in the attached image.
If it is already pinned, you can try removing any embedded HTML code and checking it.
Regards,
Neha

Full Frame Images/Borders

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