G3 Graphite 500mhz slot loader power issue

My building has a 500 mhz graphite slot-loader that started to have issues....
Namely, the display would start to 'twitch' after it was on for a little while. These twicthes would continuee every few minutes until eventually it would twitch and shut off....but the machine would always turn right back on. The twitches almost remind me of the degauss button on old monitors. Now it twitched and turned off, but it won't turn back on this time. It seems to me to be a power issue as it is completely dead now and I cannot boot it in target mode, nor do I get a chime or any reaction at all when I try to power up etc etc.
I have access to a a pretty good supply of old parts (I have a 'skid row' of old iMacs that my school district will not repair anymore due to their age) so what do you guys think the issue may be? I've pulled apart a good number of iBooks, but this will be my first iMac.....

'Sorry to be so spleeney about the "plugO'death" there IS a way to slip a grounded screw driver under the plug and discharge the capacator. (It's the plug you can see right on the top of the tube with the large rubber flange around it) I just hate to see folks get in there.
The flyback circuit consists of mainly a high-voltage transformer and a capacator that stores the charge. This charge applied to the tube attracts the electrons from the back of the tube and encourages them to jump the vacuum and smash into the screen phosphors in a somewhat orderly manner.
If you just pull the drive, there's no problem with high voltage, high current components.
The Apple site Apple's Knowledge Base has links to .pdf technical manuals if you should decide to live life on the electrical edge.
David

Similar Messages

500Mhz Titanium PowerBook power issue (won't start up)

My 500Mhz Titanium PowerBook is having power issues, and I can't tell what's causing the problem.
We usually default to using the adapter because the old battery only holds a charge for about 30-45 minutes or so...This isn't really a problem because we only use it around the house.
Earlier today, my wife said it didn't recognize AC power, but when moved to a different outlet, it did. I came along later and moved it to the previous outlet, and again, it didn't recognize AC. I then moved it to a third outlet, and it still didn't begin charging.
After a few minutes of battery power, it went to reserve. I still tried a fourth outlet to no avail, then just shut it down at about 12% reserve. Now I can't get it to start up at all.
I've disconnected everything, tried the "60-second rest," and resetting the PMU, but the PB still won't start up.
Any suggestions?
On an semi-related note, I read this article regarding identification of power adapters:
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=75448#922-4323
...and I'm puzzled as to why Apple doesnt refer to the adapter model number but instead uses some other ID which I can find no mention of on my adapter. This "yo-yo" adapter has "Model No. M7332" imprinted on it and according to the article, as far as I can tell, Apple refers to it as a 922-4323 with a 922-4529 cord--numbers I can find no reference to on the adapter or cord. Am I missing something?
500Mhz PowerBook G4 Mac OS X (10.4.2)

Hi, Sluggo. Remove the main battery, plug the AC adapter into an outlet that causes the adapter's ring light to come on, and leave the powerbook that way to charge the internal backup battery for at least four hours (overnight is easy). Then put the main battery back in, give that some time to charge up at least partially, and then try starting the PB (still on AC power). Post back with results.
A weak or dead backup battery can prevent a Tibook from starting at all. A weak or dead main battery may, in some cases, divert all charging energy away from the backup battery until the main battery is fully charged — or indefinitely, if the main battery is no longer capable of taking a charge. The main battery charge-level indicator on the menu bar is usually wildly inaccurate by the time the battery is only able to deliver ~30 minutes of ordinary working time. Whatever percentage it reports is probably untrustworthy and may be pure moonshine.
With respect to different outlets producing different results in the adapter, that isn't related to the backup battery. Try a different, known-good AC adapter, if possible, and see whether it behaves the same way yours does when connected to your various electrical outlets. If its behavior is identical (not likely but possible), read the two articles linked below and consider getting an uninterruptible power supply unit to condition your AC power, which may be noisy.
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=302461
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=32155
If a known-good adapter behaves normally and as expected when connected to all your outlets, replace your adapter.

IMac DV slot-loading power button glows orange after shutdown, cant start

Hi,
I have iMac DV SE (graphite model) of 1999, 320MB RAM, 40 GB HD, running Mac OS X 10.4.7.
Everything seems to work fine, but when I go to Shutdown, it shuts down fine and power light goes off...Then several minutes later, the power button turns orange and stays like that for a few hours and then goes off again.... Then several hours later or the next day, I have a hard time getting it to turn on again by hitting the power button.. the keyboard (old iMac keyboard) power button never works to turn on the iMac (should it?) but when I hit it while in Mac OS X, it shows me the menu to shutdown, restart, sleep, etc...
Also, by PRAM battery seems good (I measured it at 3.6 V) and it seems to keep track of the date and time just fine, so I cant imagine it's the battery....
So in the past when this happens, it just keep hitting the power button and/or remove the power cord and re-insert, etc, and some combination of that after many tries the iMac finally starts up...
Any idea what's going on? I cant find any discussion of the power button going orange after a shutdown and the fact that my keyboard power button doesnt work to turn on the Mac...
Help...
Andrew

Ah.. very interesting... I'm surprised I couldnt find any info on the 'net about this orange power light...
Anyways, I found have some interesting stuff since...
1. On this last occasion when it didnt turn on, I was jiggling some stuff (plugging and unplugging the power cord several times.... then I tilted the iMac slightly and let it "drop" to jostle/jiggle it)... and after the slight "drop," I hit the power button and it turned on just fine... d'oh... I wonder if something's just "loose" somehow... I dont have a random shutdown problem, once it's turned on and inside Mac OS X, it works fine for hours and hours until I tell it to shutdown. hehehe...
2. Just last night, before going to bed, I shut it down and since it's plugged into a power surge, I turned the power OFF to the power surge, so now it doesnt have any power to it... so this morning, I turned power to the power surge, and hit the power button on the Mac and it turned on just fine! d'oh again.. hehe... so it almost leads me to believe somehow that leaving the power cord with electricity flowing to the Mac when the Mac is shutdown is "hurting" it somehow, and if there is no power connected when it's shutdown, it works normally (I think)...
Very strange indeed...
Anyways, I got this Mac second hand so I am wondering if this was a problem for the original owner... when I first got it , I knew the hard drive was missing, so I put a 40GB IDE hard drive from a PC and formatted it, etc... so not sure if the hard drive could cause a boot issue...
Oh, well, I guess I'll keep using this iMac until it no longer turns on.. lets see how long I can keep going like this ..heheh..
Andrew

Graphite slot-loading G3 iMac drive failure

Hi. My G3 Graphite slot-loading iMac hard drive died this past week, or at least I thing it did. It has the original hard drive in it and is at least 10 years old,maybe more. It is a 60g drive with 2 partitions: 50g for OS X and 10g for OS 9.2. Now I hardly ever use the OS 9.2 partition, but I just never got rid of it.
It's the OS X partition that failed. I was working on it this past Saturday and I notice it was acting strange and slow. It froze on me twice and I was force to shut it down both times by pressing the white glowing on button on the front. Well, after that second restart is when the trouble started. I heard the start-up chime and that was it, just a gray screen for a long time, then the question mark and then, after several minutes, it booted into OS 9.2.
The OS X partition was completely unavailable. The only way I was able to see it was to boot the G3 in target disc mode and attached it thru firewire to my G4 iMac. In Disk Utility, the OS X partition came up as an unmounted drive. Disk Utility could not verify or fixed it. So I tried Disk Warrior 4. Disk Warrior was unable to fix it. So I purchased Prosoft Data Rescue ll and a new internal hard drive.
Data Rescue ll was able to recover all my files, but with some errors. So, I went and purchased a hard drive enclosure, put the internal hard drive in it, had Data Rescue II clone the entire G3 hd, and then had Data Rescue recover from the clone, with the same results. Prosoft support decipher the error messages to be reporting that some data was missing. Still waiting to hear from them exactly what that means.
Now I wrote all that to get to this question: If a partition fails on a single hd, does that mean the whole drive is bad? I thought that when you drive fails, you would not be able to see any of the partitions on it. Obviously, I'm going to replace it with the new internal drive that is currently serving as my clone drive. But, I was just wondering how this drive failed. I was going to try and see if I can reinitialized it and if so, reinstall OS X and see what happens. Or do you thing that is a waste of time? As i write this,the G3 is running in target disc mode and the drive sounds fine, not making any noise what so ever. I was wondering if this is an actual drive failure or somehow, when I rebooted the system folder got so damaged that it put the partition in the state it is currently in.
I'd like to know becuase, if I can just reinstall OS 10.4 and have access to that partition, I could back-up all my files that way and possibly have no missing data.
So any insights would be greatly appreciated!

Is the OS X partition installed at the beginning of the hard drive? If so, that's the area of the platter(s) that has seen the most usage over the years, so it may have developed surface damage, affecting the reliability of reads and writes. This wouldn't necessarily cause a difference in operational noise coming from the drive. One partition may continue functioning normally, while the other one occupying a bad area of the drive continues to have errors. The problem with copying files from a quirky drive is that you can likely duplicate the same corrupted files as were found on the original. If time is of no consequence, you could erase that partition and install Tiger again, but I'd use the original installer disk and not clone from the problematic partition. I had a 40 GB drive in a beige G3 that would cause unexpected system hangs. Because Drive Setup's Test Disk function and NDD's Media Scan would hang after a few minutes into the process, I estimated the problem area to be within the first 2 GBs of the drive. My solution was to create (3) partitions, with the first one set to 2 GBs, and the second and third partitions equally dividing the remaining drive capacity. With Drive Setup, I de-selected the "Mount on Startup" option for partition 1, so it disappeared from the desktop. I installed the OS on the second partition and designated the third for file storage. With that partition configuration, the G3 never had the unexpected system hangs that had plagued it previously.

Slot-loading DV Display/HardDrive seize up

I am posting a conversation I have been having with a discussion board user, as I think it will be useful for others
On Fri, Feb 18, 2011 at 4:46 PM, <**@**.com> wrote:
Hi Richard:
I've just been reading an exchange you had with someone named Graham in the UK about his iMac going black and becoming unresponsive. After a series of exchanges, you finished up (I think) with:
That can be a possibility. If it was the CPU temp that's causing this the entire logic board would have to have come loose or perhaps the conductive paste has dried out/failed, unlikely.
So upshot. In my experience the part that fails in these G3 iMacs is the PAV (The board you see when you look down from the top it's under the CRT and drives the monitor section. The logic board derives power from the PAV via down converter).
The shutting down is a classic symptom and the most irritating.
Others: No start - power light blinks or turns amber, video gets wonky - color shifts or size variations, sparks arcing sound, native screen is dark but external monitor works fine (not on option on your 350, no external spigot). This is why I've got 7 or so iMac G3s in my basement. Mostly 350s since I was given around 20 of them and I repaired and donated most into the inner city. The ones left have PAV problems.
Wacky upgrade options:
I'm especially interested because here you mentioned the other main symptom I've noticed in my own version of the same problem: the "arcing sound" which I've been hearing almost from the start of my issues. Everything else almost mirrors his, except the time for the symptoms to kick in has reduced to less than 10 minutes.
I thought it might be the drive, so I've tried 2 different hd's, and it happens with both, and I tried running the iMac (400jhz slot loading) just off of CD, and it shut down then too!
Obviously, I've been inside the machine to replace the drives, with my teenage daughter's help (my eyes aren't so hot). I'm going to check for this OS X temperature software and see what it tells me. I did run a RAM checker, and it said it was all fine, so at least I know it's not that. I tried to get a version of Apple Hardware Checker for it (or whatever it's called) but it said the iMac DV would not run the software.
Do you still have those . . . PVA's? This machine is a perfect print server and backup hd and work stereo, and we have enjoyed tinkering with her in the past. If it wasn't TOO complex, I'd like to give it a try. I showed my daughter how to solder a battery cable onto a tester circuit board, so if that's the kind of thing we'd need to do, I'm game.
Let me know, and I'm looking for a temperature checker right now. Oh yea, and Tricia Helfer DOES look pretty hot.
Carey
On 18-Feb-11, at 8:37 PM, spudnuty wrote:
Hi Cary,
the other main symptom I've noticed in my own version of the same problem: the "arcing sound" which I've been hearing almost from the start of my issues.
That arcing sound is almost always the flyback transformer. That is on the PAV board which is basically the entire upper half of the computer. Here's a site in England where you can download the Service Manual for your machine.
http://www.macmanuals.co.uk/
So since you have a 400 MHz machine it's one of the more desirable machines since it has firewire. 400 to 700 had them. As I mentioned in my post I would pull the logic board and transfer it to a working 350. If you look in the manual swapping the board is simple. Then again around Chicago these G3 iMacs are sold for $25 or less. Don't know the situation where you are.
I used to repair these but they've become so cheap that the board swap is now my chosen path.
Richard
On Sat, Feb 19, 2011 at 12:22 PM, <**@**.com> wrote:
Richard:
I guess this shhould've been on the discussion board so others could see it, but I'll just ask one more thing before looking into the manual:
Remember, I've swapped a harddrive and memory, but board changing is something I've never tried before:
So, are you saying that the PAv that might be creating these issues, being such a large part of the computer, should just be abandoned, and the logic board swapped into a 350 because of it's simplicity? Does the logic board contain the 400 mhz processor and firewire hookup, or would those be left behind on the 400 iMac's PAV board?
I'm looking at the manual, and you're right, pulling the logic board does look pretty simple, but I haven't found the answer to the above question yet, so I'll send it to you.
I emailed this to you because the original post a over a year old, and I wasn't sure you'd still be watching the discussion boards. Next time, I'll just 'trust to the boards', though I've only received 2/5 answers through it over the years.
Thanks again.
Carey
On 19-Feb-11, at 6:17 PM, spudnuty wrote:
Carey,
So look at the pic I enclose. It's from the service manual.
So you've had the machine apart to this point, from here it's just the removal of the 10 screws to remove the logic board and down converter. They plug into the upper part via a couple of connectors. There could be a few plastic rivets that tie the board to the divider panel.
Does the logic board contain the 400 mhz processor and firewire hookup, or would those be left behind on the 400 iMac's PAV board?
That's all on the logic board.
Basically the iMac is a CRT display and speakers with a logic board underneath with the optical drive and the hard drive.
The board on top is called the PAV board ( power analog video) i. e. video power supply for a computer monitor. Power comes from that board and comes down to the "down converter" which changes it to logic board power, basically 12V and 5.5V DC. (These boards have been run "headless" but now not worth the trouble)
So your path from here will be determined by what kind of donor iMac you find. It must be a slot loader and the chances are it will be as fast or faster as your current machine.
Richard
On Mon, Feb 21, 2011 at 11:17 PM, <**@**.com> wrote:
Hi Richard:
Well, despite your own circumstances with blueberries and strawberries falling from the computer sky, I've gone on 4 different user forums and several different 'used things for sale' websites, and so far the closest I can come to getting a used imac is having one shipped from the next province (about 500 miles) for about 50-60 bucks, or possibly one in the city which the poster said they wanted 200 bucks for. I've had no reply to my email to them, yet.
Would you be willing to sell me one of those PAV boards, if they're still kicking around? I would think the shipping would be much less than the whole darned computer.
If you don't still have them in piles around you, I may just have to turf the iMac entirely for budgetary reasons.
I guess with the much smaller population, the proliferation of iMacs is similarly reduced. There's only about 3 million people in Alberta, which is where I am.
Let me know.
Greatly appreciate the information connections you've made for me.
Cheers
Carey
On 22-Feb-11, at 1:17 AM, spudnuty wrote:
Hey Carey,
Well I was forced to leave all of my iMac G3 parts with a recycler in Chicago when I moved.
I actually found one here in Pocatello (town of 60K) for $25 so maybe you can find the same thing. I don't have a PAV board and they are very hard to swap out, don't think I ever did it.
So, thinking a bit more about your situation, since you're using it as a server, when it fails does it absolutely freeze up? On the 400 you can attach a VGA monitor to the spigot under the perferated oval grill under the bottom rear. The monitors can fail in these and still produce power to run the logic board. Around here you can get a cheap LCD 15" monitor for around $25. A CRT type you can probably get for free. So if you're lucky it can still work that way.
There were people who ran a logic board headless, but most of these are out of date:
Here's a few:
http://www.applefritter.com/node/2241
http://www.cryogenius.com/hardware/imac/
a translation of the classic French mod:
http://www.hardmac.com/articles/39/page1
Soo hopefully yours will fail and just the CRT will be involved.
Here's hoping...
Richard
<Edited by Host>

Perhaps one of your RAM modules has gone belly up. To test this, remove both RAM modules and start up. If the RAM is the cause of the problem, the computer will respond with a complaining chime, and of course go no further. But that will indicate the RAM is cause, and you can go to the next step; try to start up with just one of the RAM modules installed - either one. If that gets you nowhere, try the other one.
If the problem is not bad RAM, it is beyond my expertise to help. Sorry.

How interchangeable are slot loading logic boards

A friend has a 400Mhz slot loader that is working fine and is in the process of getting a 600Mhz snow iMac with a powersupply problem. Is it possible to just swap the logic boards? They are going to have me do the swap so I need to know some stuff going in:
Any voltage issues I should know about? I assume they are similar in shape but does one draw a different amount of power I'd need to deal with?
Do the ports line up with the case in the same way and shape on both logic boards?
And the VRAM is mounted on the logic board too right? So the 16Mb on the 600Mhz iMac travels with it on the logic board, correct?

Langdon,
Any voltage issues I should know about?
The dangerous voltages are on the board in the top of the case (the brown one, PAV) and you'd have to stick a wet finger or metal probe through holes near the bottom to reach anything dangerous. That would also be with the machine plugged in and turned on.
I assume they are similar in shape
They are identical and the mounting screws and snap tabs are identical
but does one draw a different amount of power I'd need to deal with?
AFAIK they're identical. The power derives from the down converter and you'll move that with the logic board. The down comverter plugs into the logic board. It's the little sub board off to the side that has coils, capacitors and transformer looking thingies on it.
Do the ports line up with the case in the same way and shape on both logic boards?
They're identical.
And the VRAM is mounted on the logic board too right? So the 16Mb on the 600Mhz iMac travels with it on the logic board, correct?
Right it's hard to tell the difference without close inspection.
Richard

Can't install OS 8.6 on iMac "DV" (400) Slot Loading?

I have an iMac "DV" (400) Slot Loading that I am trying to install the original system on (8.6, if I'm not mistaken). It has 128 mbs of RAM, a 10 gb HD, and currently no system installed on the hard drive. I have updated the firmware to 4.1.9.
The problem is that the iMac won't boot from the install CD for me to do the installation. The iMac used to have OS 9 installed on it, and when I tried to run the installer with the computer booted from 9, it told me it couldn't run on this machine. I believe I have the correct installation CD. I have also tried a couple of other installation CDs, and neither 8.5 or 8.6 will boot this computer.
Is there a way I can get 8.6 installed on this machine with the 8.6 CD, or is it just not possible for me to install 8.6 any more?

Hi Jon
Load the install CD into the Mac then power off (with the CD still inserted), on rebooting but before the chime, hold down letter C on the keyboard, that will boot from the install CD to let you do a system install.
You did not note whether you had other programs/files on the iMac that you want to keep, but if not, I would suggest that you do a complete "clean install" by re-formating/initializing the HD, then install the OS.
I would also suggest that you partition the HD into 3 (or more) partitions, 1 for the main system, 1 (or more) for your other programs/files and 1 for a "back up system", the logic being the main system is your default "boot-up" while the "back-up" system is what you boot to do maintenance/de-frag etc on the main system with a utility such as Norton's Utilities or similar.
I would also suggest that you have a copy of Norton's (or similar) on both systems, that way you can "chop and change" systems to do the maintenance. Proper maintenance/de-fraging cannot be done to the "boot-up" system that you boot from.
Hope this is of some help.

Z77A-GD65 power issue/bad system board?

Looking for advice. I am afraid its a bad board, but some symptoms point at power which also makes no sense.
This is what the WHOLE system should look like.
MSI Z77A-GD65 system board
Intel 3770K 3.5Ghz
Anted Kuhler H20 620
G.Skills RipJaws 16GB 1600Mhz DDR3 F3-14900CL9Q-16GBXL (on the test list)
Asus nVidia GTX 680 video card
OCX Vertex 3 256MB SSD
Seagate 500GB data drive
Razer Lycosa Keyboard
Razer DeathAdder Mouse
Antec Sonata IV case with Neo ECO 620W power supply
It seems to me that 620W should be more than enough. According to my calculations thats roughly 330W of power draw against a 620W powersupply.
I am not currently over clocking.
So what the system does look like is:
If I connect the 500GB drive then windows starts rebooting as soon as the Windows logo comes up.
If I place all four sticks of RAM in the system windows starts rebooting as soon as the Windows logo comes up.
If I leave the 500GB standard sata drive off and only use 3 sticks of RAM... well we get a solid system and I am writing this message on it.
3 sticks of ram appear to work in any 3 slots and allow the system to boot, except 1,3,4. That combo also resulted in the reboots at the windows logo.
I first thought it was RAM, originally I was using Corsair Vengeance. I saw some posts here about people having the same problem, and noted that the Corsiar RAM was not tested and switch to a the tested G.Skill instead.
Any ideas? It does not completely seem like a System board issue, but it certainly should not be power. All heat levels are well within normal and as I said the system works great if I leave off the drive and one stick of RAM.
Thanks guys....

System torn down, and put back together. (Found out I was out of Thrermal Compound, so I had to run to the store to get some.)
No long leads, only 9 stand offs matching each mount point on the systemboard.
Back together... problem is the exact same.
However, back to the hard drive issue. I decided to play with that since I was getting no where with 4 sticks of RAM.
What I have discovered is that with NO sata cable connecting the drive to the system board, if I try to power the two 250GB standard sata drives the system reboots just as the Windows logo should come up.
The fact that this behavior is so close to the RAM behavior... I am back to thinking its a power issue, though system board is still a chance... its just easier to buy a new better power supply than the Antec Neo Power 620 that came with the case. (I have not ever had a problem with Antec before, and will likely just buy one of their higher end power supplies to replace it, but I think I will try it next, just in case.)
I am not seeing any strange behavior power wise as far as any monitor shows... but connecting power to a sata drive that is NOT connected with a sata cable and causing a reboot just screams power at me.
Anymore thoughts today. In the mean time off to play Secret World with just the SSD and two sticks of RAM, which still runs rock solid.

ITS load balancing issue

Hi all,
During our testing we are getting a load balancing issue. However, one of the agates in our network is has more CPU power than compared to the other agates in our ITS network. The memory on all the agate servers is the same.
Our current issue we are getting is the one agate that has more cpu power but acquires more sessions as compared to the other two agates. It roughly gets 60 more sessions per agate process as compare to the other Agate servers. Does having more cpu on a Agate affect the load balancing on ITS? We are on ITS patch level 19 with the Hotfix.
Thanks,
Jin Bae

Hello Jin,
yes, at (re)initialize the WGate retrieves the capacity from the AGates.
This is an accumulated number based on CPU performance and the number of CPUs!
The number can be seen in "wgate-status" as the "Capacity" of the AGate.
When running multiprocess Agates the number is retrieved from the MManager and also involves the number of agate-processes.
The WGate dispatches the load in proportion depending on these capacity numbers.
By my knowledge there is no way that these values can be configured (fixed).
Regards,
Fekke

G5 Slot Load XServe 10.4.11 won't save startup disk preference

I have a G5 XServe (Slot Load). If the server is 'Shut Down' or it loses power (UPS goes down) it won't boot from the selected Startup Disk.
I have to use the System Identifier buttons to select 'Startup from internal drive'.
But if I instead only Restart the machine, it always boots from the selected Startup Disk.
How can I get this G5 XServe running Tiger 10.4.11 to retain its Startup Disk settings?
Thanks

I ran 'sudo systemsetup -liststartupdisks'
and got '/System/Library/CoreServices'
Should this be working as is or should it be '/System/Library/CoreServices/System' or something else?
What should the file path be? Can you please post an example?
I am planning on using 'sudo systemsetup -setstartupdisk <path to disk root>' to try to reset it. I found that in the Snow Leopard literature, should that work for Tiger as well?
Thanks for your help.

How to clean slot-load drive?

I have a small issues that appears to not be software related. I am not exactly tech-savvy when it comes to apple products, thus I have had a hard time finding a solution.
Basically, I have problems ejecting discs. Firstly, no matter what method of ejecting I attempt, it will not eject fully.
After many attempts, it finally jutts out, but then gets pulled back in again. I have to contiuously eject until finally I can grab the disc and pull it out.
Sometimes running my thumbnail across the "dust flap" helps, sometimes it doesn't. When I look, it appears pretty dusty.
My Macbook Pro IS second hand. So it seems it came to me pretty dusty already.
So after all those pointers, I came to the conclusion that either the dust flap was dirty or sticky, and, maybe, the slot load DVD drive needs cleaning.
If not, can anyone point me to a permanent solution?
Otherwise, can anyone tell me how to safely clean the dust flap and/or slot load drive.

See -> http://support.apple.com/kb/HT2801??viewlocale=en_US.
Good luck,
Clinton

Need some HELP on older G3 slot loader, (ram)

hi, i have got a imac slot loading G3 500MHz, currently only have 128 meg ram, want to go to 512, cant seem to find the right sort of ram to fit because of the tabs/notches that hold it in place are different,
also do i need to run say 2x256, or can i just run one 512??
so i need the serial/number ( i think it's pc100) although some of the tabs/locking notches are different.
any info GREATLY appreciated
many thanks
imac G3 500MHz Mac OS X (10.3.9)
imac G3 500MHz Mac OS X (10.3.9)

"the thing i am having probs with is the positon of the notches that lock it in place"
You need a PC100 or PC133 DIMM, not a SO-DIMM. It should be non-buffered and non-ECC. Push the locking tabs away from the ends, position the DIMM so that it physically matches up with the bottom of the slot (if it does not match up, simply turn it around length-wise so that it can fit down into the slot) [you may need to use a flashlight]. When you push it down into the slot, the locking tabs will click into the notches on both ends of the DIMM.
I'm sorry to say that some PC100 DIMMs will fit but not work, and the same is true of PC133 DIMMs. Good luck finding what you need.

Looking for Trayless/Slot Load Blu-Ray DVD players

Looking for a list of the Trayless/Slot Load Blu-Ray DVD players. Are there any for under $100? (or near that)

Rwillen, i agree with you. What TVLOVER said has to be one of the funniest things I have heard in a few weeks. Plus how would a Stand Alone players eye last longer then a PS3 eye? They both work in the exact same manner. And dont give me any bs about the eyes in stand alones are better design and quality then those found in the PS3. Because that is false. If anything the PS3 would use the better eye due to the more use they are subjected to. I have owned 2 PS3's since they were launched. BOTH were used for heavy gaming and the Blu-Ray from day 1. Guess what? My original FAT PS3 is still alive and kicking just fine. So over 7 years of use on that thing and not a single issue other then the bluetooth board went out. But I knew how to repair electronics ordered a new board for 30 dollars and it was as good as new.
But I have always recommended the PS3 over a blu-ray system due to its ALOT more future proof then a stand alone player is. It has the ability to do more then a stand alone player, and the price makes it worth it over a stand alone. Because while people around me were buying new Blu-Ray players due to the Blu-Ray spec changing and evolving in its early days. My PS3 with just a free software update got all the same features that people had to trash their "older" models to get. And dont forget about the encryption keys. Your at the mercy of the company to continue to make new firmware to keep the keys updated to play new movies. Not so much of a worry for the PS3 as it will still be around for a long time.

Will Mac OS X Snow Leopard INSTALL on a IMAc g3 slot lOADER?

will Mac OS X Snow Leopard INSTALL on a IMAc g3 slot lOADER?
Message was edited by: Youngzink13

That's what we needed.
Officially your iMac--known as a "tray-loader" for its optical drive type--can go to Panther (10.3.X). Panther is quite better than Jaguar (10.2.8) that you now have. You probably need more RAM than 160MB for even Jaguar. I feel that 384MB is about min for that OS.
The big problem is that the early iMacs came with painfully small hard drives --4 to 6 G--and OSX need a lot of free space on the disk for efficient performance. It's hard to keep a Jaguar system under 2G with a few useful apps installed.
Bottom line: you'll spent money for a hard-to-find retail OS install disk, more RAM, and a bigger hard drive, and you'll still have a slow computer that will always struggle with modern web pages. If you want to upgrade and experiment as a hobby or learnign experience and you can afford the parts and time, by all means--go for it. However, if cost is an issue, throwing money at this unit is not cost-effective in terms of how much more yo ucan get from it.

IMac G3 DV Slot Loaded DVD 400 Mhz. 384RAM 10GB HD - Tiger Install?

iMac G3 DV Slot Loaded DVD 400Mhz.384RAM 10GB Hard Drive OS 9.2.2 - Tiger Install
Ok, I am getting Tiger Disks this week. I want to know the procedure for installing it, from beginning to end. I'm currently running OS 9.2.2 (latest updates) & I have the latest 4.1 Firmware Update. On this model, will I have to first Partition the Drive as suggested with the Tray Loaders ? Also, I read somewhere that I can upgrade to 1GB Ram on this model. Is this correct ? Help!!

Bringing G3 iMacs and Other G3 Macs into the Tiger Age
http://lowendmac.com/macdan/md07/1207.html
There are some CD versions of tiger.
http://store.fastmac.com/productinfo.php?productsid=111
You could buy an external DVD drive. It needs to be firewire and bootable by Mac OS. If you have another PPC with firewire, you could try target Disk mode and installed tiger that way.
You need to figure out the level of your firmware before installing 10.2 or greater. ( The PC name for firmware is BIOS. ) Installing 10.2 with a down level firmware will most likely make your iMac unusable and difficult to fix.
Figuring out what level of firmware you have?
1) Mac OS 9.x or 8.x, you need to use the Apple System Profiler.
Apple -> Apple System Profiler
2) Mac OS X, use the System Profiler.
Apple -> About This Mac
click on the More Info... tab
click on Hardware
read the Boot ROM Version
3) Open Firmware, boot into Open Firmware.
Power on your iMac while holding down commandoption+of
The first output line contains the firmware level. Mine reads:
Apple PowerMac4,1 4.1.9f1 BootRom built on 09/14/01 at 13.18.04
Copyright 1994-2001 Apple Computer Inc.
Some machine may not contain the firmware level but some other number which can be translated to the firmware level.
On my machine, I have 4.1.9f1.
What firmware do you need?
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=86117
For a slot loading iMac, this article indicates that you need to be running 9.1.
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=75130
"The iMac Firmware Update 4.1.9 will only run on iMac computers with lot-loading CD or DVD drives running Mac OS 9.1 or later from a local drive. If you are using Mac OS X you must boot from a local Mac OS 9.1 or later writeable partition (not a CD, or network disk) prior to following the update instructions."
You can download the updates from the Apple site.
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1387?viewlocale=en_US
For tiger, you need 256meg of memory. For panther, you need 128 meg of memory.
Also, I read somewhere that I can upgrade to 1GB Ram on this model. Is this correct ? Help!!
Yes.
Message was edited by: rccharles

G3 Graphite 500mhz slot loader power issue

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