GX70 vs GT70 2OC - which is better in the long run?

Just asking for some advice and opinions in these two models. I know the CPU in the GT70 kills the GX70 but the GPU on the GX70 is a monster. Games I'll probably be playing include Skyrim, star wars old republic, star craft 2 - and who knows down the road.
The price of the GT70 goes a little advice my budget though - so if the differences aren't all that major I'd rather save the cash.
http://www.msimobile.com/level3_productpage.aspx?cid=6&id=392
http://www.msimobile.com/level3_productpage.aspx?cid=6&id=396
So the big question its which one will keep up better with newer games as time goes on? CPU vs GPU?

Quote from: stefanton on 26-June-13, 03:24:19
The issue for me is upgrading a dedicated GPU in a laptop - most of the stores i've asked about say it can't be done, you gotta get a whole new laptop (which is why laptop is not ideal for gaming - desktops are easier to mix-n-match).
Besides, who even sells mobile GPU cards in the retail world? Is there an online retailer that sells them? I am more interested in knowing this because, say a year from now nVidia releases a 800 series card that outperforms the 770m, and fits in the same PCI slot inside the notebook - i'd like to be able to swap them out.
The GT70 series uses MXM 3.0 sockets, as do most high end notebooks at this point in time. There are GT780's (the prior version of the GT70) that are running the GTX680M, and I'm sure there will be some using a GTX770M as well. I will most likely eventually put a GTX780M in my GT70 when I have the cash and the need.
I actually think you can order the cards from the MSI store. I'm not 100% certain on that, but I'm pretty sure you can.

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Reference or Library? Which is better for the long run?

I decided to waste a day and re-organize my disorganized database of photographs held within aperture. I don't have any experience with referencing files but I was considering whether there are pros and cons to having files externally referenced versus having them within the Aperture library.
My habits are non-routine and I shoot pretty much anything, so I'm looking for a system that will ensure my library is flexible, stable, and safe for future use and access.
I suppose the only reason I can think of for referencing is having some control of where the actual files are so I can access/refer to them with other apps.
Please share your thoughts, experiences, and preferences.

I guess you are right about the duplicates still being an issue even if you find them outside of Aperture, since you still need to delete the links within Aperture, correct?
I never really worked with migrating projects except for moving the sample projects out to save space.
I was trying to think of how I will manage a RAW library when I can get my hands on that equipment, but migrating projects doesn't seem like such a bad thing to do. In fact, it seems rather ideal. Most of the time, I only need access to certain projects in certain parts of the year, and the rest of the time I never touch the photos.
You all have convinced me to give the managed library another go as I restructure my database. But I am still looking for the best ways to catch duplicates within Aperture. I know that you can stem them upon import, but Aperture's import duplicate-recognition technology in not consistent at all for me. Photos can be exactly the same but if they were not imported from the same source (i.e. memory card vs. finder folder) then Aperture won't think anything of it.
This is off topic, but is there a way to customize Aperture's duplicate detection? You would think that a pro software (and Aperture is pro, right?) would allow this. I might start a new thread on this topic.
The reason for my current obsession with duplicates is that I have a library of 12.5 GB of photos that I am pretty certain are already in Aperture, but when I test an import with the check box for not importing dupes, Aperture considers all the photos new. I then go in and find that none in that folder are new, but instead that they are all already in Aperture as is. Granted, I'm not worried about dupes taken after my migration to Aperture but for all of my photos before then, I'm kind of in a bind still.

Engraving better in the long run?

I hope this isn't a stupid question. I'm planning buy an iPad Air for my birthday (late April). I was going to order it online because I wanted to have my name engraved on it, but I've heard it's better to not get the engraving because it lowers its resale value. You have to go to a 3rd party to get it removed and even if you do, the value will still be lower (on top of that, I don't trust 3rd parties).
Is it better to not to get the engraving at all? I wanted my name on it as a way to personalize it, but it's not a big deal.

Unfortunately, since I'm an idiot, I didn't realize you can't undo "this helped me" once you click it on a post, or that you can't choose both buttons for a post. *sigh*
Anyway, I've decided not to have it engraved. I don't care about the resale value. It's just that it'd would be in a case anyway, and I'd rather just put some stickers or use markers on the case. Plus, if I decide I don't want my name there anymore, for whatever reason, I can just pull the stickers off or erase the marker.

Is it better for your battery if you let it run down all the way and then charge it? Or to charge it whenever you have the opportunity? Which is better for the life of the battery?

I was wondering it the life of the battery would last longer if you let the battery run down all the way and then charge it? Or to charge it whenever you have the opportunity even if it doesn't have a low battery? Which is better for the life of the battery and prolong the life of the battery?

I've had a iPhone 4s since March 2012, and it's battery is pretty useless now. I was using the app Battery Doctor (Battery Saver, Battery Life) by Beijing Kingsoft Internet Security software, which encourages the user to charge more often, whenever battery life drops below 100% full and greater than 20% full, and gives ratings according to the number of full, partial & overcharges done, but I'm concerned that charging like that actually results in worse battery life??
I now have an new iPhone 5 and don't want the battery to only last as short as the last one did
Any advice/comments please

When in transport, which is better have the MBP shut down or sleep mode?

when in transport, which is better have the MBP shut down or in sleep mode?

Read the user manual that came w/your computer. Personally, I shut down when transporting.
It all comes down to personal preference. "Different Strokes For Different Folks"

Whats better for my mbp 2013 retina in the long run? Keep it plugged in as much as possible or letting the battery hit 10% and then recharge it?

Whats better for my mbp 2013 retina in the long run? Keep it plugged in as much as possible or letting the battery hit 10% and then recharge it?

Odd you ask that, since both are HORRIBLE,   ... especially often draining your battery low.
General consideration of your MacBook battery
Contrary to popular myths about notebook batteries, there is protection circuitry in your Macbook and therefore you cannot ‘overcharge’ your notebook when plugged in and already fully charged.
However if you do not plan on using your notebook for several hours, turn it off (plugged in or otherwise), since you do not want your Macbook ‘both always plugged in and in sleep mode’.
A lot of battery experts call the use of Lithium-Ion cells the "80% Rule", meaning use 80% of the full charge or so, then recharge them for longer overall life. The only quantified damage done in the use of Lithium Ion batteries are instances where the internal notebook battery is “often drained very low”, this is bad general use of your notebook battery.
A person who has, for example, 300 charge cycles on their battery and is recharging at say 40% remaining of a 100% charge has a better battery condition state than, say, another person who has 300 charge cycles on their battery and is recharging at say 10-15% remaining on a 100% charge. DoD (depth of discharge) is much more important on the wear and tear on your Macbook’s battery than the count of charge cycles. There is no set “mile” or wear from a charge cycle in specific. Frequent high depth of discharge rates (draining the battery very low) on a Lithium battery will hasten the lowering of maximum battery capacity.
All batteries in any device are a consumable meant to be replaced eventually after much time, even under perfect use conditions.
If the massive amount of data that exists on lithium batteries were to be condensed into a simplex, helpful, and memorable bit of information it would be:
1. While realistically a bit impractical during normal everyday use, a lithium battery's longevity and its chemistry's health is most happy swinging back and forth between 20% and 85% charge roughly.
2. Do not purposefully drain your battery very low (10% and less), and do not keep them charged often or always high (100%).
3. Lithium batteries do not like the following:
A: Deep discharges, as meaning roughly 10% or less on a frequent basis.
B: Rapid discharges as referring to energy intensive gaming on battery on a frequent basis (in which case while gaming, if possible, do same on power rather than battery). This is a minor consideration.
C: Constant inflation, as meaning always or most often on charge, and certainly not both in sleep mode and on charge always or often.
From Apple on batteries:
http://www.apple.com/batteries/notebooks.html
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1446
"Apple does not recommend leaving your portable plugged in all the time."
Keep it plugged in when near a socket so you keep the charging cycles down on your LiPo (lithium polymer) cells / battery, but not plugged in all the time. When not being used for several hours, turn it off.
DoD (depth of discharge) is far more important on the wear and tear on your Macbook battery than any mere charge cycle count. *There is no set “mile” or wear from a charge cycle in general OR in specific.    As such, contrary to popular conception, counting cycles is not conclusive whatsoever, rather the amount of deep DoD on an averaged scale of its use and charging conditions.
                          (as a very rough analogy would be 20,000 hard miles put on a car vs. 80,000 good miles being something similar)
*Contrary to some myths out there, there is protection circuitry in your Macbook and therefore you cannot overcharge it when plugged in and already fully charged
*However if you don’t plan on using it for a few hours, turn it OFF (plugged in or otherwise) ..*You don’t want your Macbook both always plugged in AND in sleep mode       (When portable devices are charging and in the on or sleep position, the current that is drawn through the device is called the parasitic load and will alter the dynamics of charge cycle. Battery manufacturers advise against parasitic loading because it induces mini-cycles.)
Keeping batteries connected to a charger ensures that periodic "top-ups" do very minor but continuous damage to individual cells, hence Apples recommendation above:   “Apple does not recommend leaving your portable plugged in all the time”, …this is because “Li-ion degrades fastest at high state-of-charge”.
                    This is also the same reason new Apple notebooks are packaged with 50% charges and not 100%.
Contrary to what some might say, Lithium batteries have an "ideal" break in period. First ten cycles or so, don't discharge down past 40% of the battery's capacity. Same way you don’t take a new car out and speed and rev the engine hard first 100 or so miles.
Proper treatment is still important. Just because LiPo batteries don’t need conditioning in general, does NOT mean they dont have an ideal use / recharge environment. Anything can be abused even if it doesn’t need conditioning.
Storing your MacBook
If you are going to store your MacBook away for an extended period of time, keep it in a cool location (room temperature roughly 22° C or about 72° F). Make certain you have at least a 50% charge on the internal battery of your Macbook if you plan on storing it away for a few months; recharge your battery to 50% or so every six months roughly if being stored away. If you live in a humid environment, keep your Macbook stored in its zippered case to prevent infiltration of humidity on the internals of your Macbook which could lead to corrosion.
Considerations:
Your battery is subject to chemical aging even if not in use. A Lithium battery is aging as soon as its made, regardless.
In a perfect (although impractical) situation, your lithium battery is best idealized swinging back and forth between 20 and 85% SOC (state of charge) roughly.
Further still how you discharge the battery is far more important than how it is either charged or stored short term, and more important long term that cycle counts.
Ultimately counting charge cycles is of little importance. Abuse in discharging (foremost), charging, and storing the battery and how it affects battery chemistry is important and not the ‘odometer’ reading, or cycle counts on the battery.
Everything boils down to battery chemistry long term, and not an arbitrary number, or cycle count.
Keep your macbook plugged in when near a socket since in the near end of long-term life, this is beneficial to the battery.
In a lithium battery, deep discharges alter the chemistry of the anode to take up lithium ions and slowly damages the batteries capacity for the cathode to transport lithium ions to the anode when charging, thereby reducing max charge levels in mAh. In short, radical swings of power to lithium cells disrupts the chemical ecosystem of the battery to hold charges correctly which likewise impedes the perfect transfer of lithium ions both in charging and discharging. In charging your lithium battery, lithium ions are “pushed uphill” (hard) to the anode, and discharged “downhill” (easy) to the cathode when on battery power. Deep discharges, damages this “upward” electrolyte chemistry for the battery to maintain a healthy charge and discharge balance relative to its age and cycles.
Optimally, in terms of a healthy lithium battery and its condition, it is most happy at 50% between extremes, which is why low-power-drain processors such as the Haswell are ideal on lithium battery health since a partially charged battery with a low-drain processor has, in general, much more usage in hours
Battery calibration, battery memory, battery overcharging, battery training, …all these concepts are mostly holdovers from much older battery technology, and on older Apple portable Macbooks ranging from early nicads, NiMh and otherwise; and these practices do not apply to your lithium battery and its smart controllers.
Calibrating the battery on older Apple portable Macbooks with removable batteries.
http://support.apple.com/kb/PH14087
There is no calibration of current Apple portable Macbooks with built-in batteries.
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1490
There is no battery calibration with current Apple portable Macbooks with built-in batteries. Lithium batteries have essentially a 0-‘memory’, and all such calibration involve the estimations fed to the system controller on the SOC (state of charge) of the battery over long periods of time as the battery degrades. The software based battery controller knows the battery's characteristics, or SOC and adjusts itself. This is why there is both no need and purpose to periodically deeply drain your macbook battery, since it doesn’t affect the characteristics of the battery, and further still deep discharges are something you should not do on purpose to any lithium battery.
From BASF: How Lithium Batteries work
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2PjyJhe7Q1g
Peace

Dark or bright theme? Which is better for the eyes?

Hello!
Recently i have found on kde-look.org a dark color scheme named Optimal. Author of this theme, on the basis of two web sites, argues that dark themes are better for the eyes or reduces eyes strain. There was a great discussion on Stackexchange forum with very different opinions. I have found out that for me the best color scheme is black on dark grey.
What is your thought? Which color scheme is better for the eyes by your opinion?
Last edited by Shark (2013-01-18 09:33:07)

Trilby wrote:
Shark wrote:Author of Optimal colour scheme uses two source:
http://www.sangrea.net/ohs_dbase/colour-color.htm
http://www.fast-consulting.com/color/cp_toc.htm
Really? No offense, but this is becoming a signicant problem now that there is so much "information" available: people cannot critically evaluate the source of information.
Graysky sensibly raised skepticism about the "random person on the internet" that you referred to. And in response you not that he, in turn, cites two other "random people on the internet". The fact that one web page links to other web pages that agree with it, does not make it's claims any more reliable.
I would not be surprised if there was good research on this - and I myself tend to like dark themes - but random links are just that: random links.
First of all – i didn't say anything about "scientific sources" etc., i just said that it was based on two internet sources which can be or not true. Nevertheles, it is interesting because this color scheme is built systematically on premises in these websites. I didn't say it is true but it is interesting, tough. And that led me to create this topic in order to better educate myself regarding colors.

Which is better bluetooth 4.0 wireless technology and edr wireless technology ? which is better between the two ?

i saw in the tech specs that macbook air has "bluetooth 4.0 wireless technology" while macbook pro has "bluetooth 2.1 + edr wireless technology". what's the difference ? and which one is better ?

Bluetooth 4.0 is the later standard. You can read up on it here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bluetooth#Bluetooth_v4.0
Whether Bluetooth 4.0 is "better" than the earlier version depends entirely on the Bluetooth peripheral you wish to use, but in general, the later version is more desirable since it included all of the older versions' capabilities and adds some new ones. If the peripheral doesn't take advantage of those new capabilities, though, then it won't matter.
Regards.

Which is better, charging the battery at a higher amperage or lower?

I just bought a 3rd party adapter to recharge my Touch via the AC outlet. I have an application on my touch that gives me the status of my battery. When I plug my touch via USB, the charging amperage is 500ma but when I use the AC plug, it says 1000ma. So which is better for longer battery life?

See these links...
-> Tips and tricks to get the most out of your iPod's battery
-> Accurately determine your iPod battery life
-> iPod battery frequently asked questions (FAQ)
-> Apple - Lithium Ion Batteries
-> Apple - iPod Batteries

Which is better for the keying (chroma key)..?

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no matter what you're talking about (except price), FCP is better for everything. basically, FCE is a watered down version of FCP. the differences depend on what you want to do with it. but as far as keying, they are relatively the same. after looking at dvmattepro's site, I can't seem to figure out what it is, but the only conclusion I can come to is a plugin that saves you time keying. yes, keying will take a lot of time in FCE/FCP, and it is tricky to get right, but you don't need anything that final cut doesn't give you. check out apple's product descriptions (and numerous discussions on this forum) for details about FCE vs. FCP, or about keying.

IPad or Mac? which is better worth the money?

iPad or Mac? which one is better worth the money, if mac, which is the cheapest but still gives you all the good apps and qualities? I would use it alot, and i already have an iouch so would the ipad be worth it? im a teenager so i would use these things alot,and i need some features to help with school and just having fun!!

iPad is not a substitute for a Mac. It's more like a companion to a Mac.
In desktops, Mac mini should be sufficient and is the only comparable Mac in terms of price, but you need to add a monitor, keyboard.
In laptops, consider the MacBook Air for its portability, and the MacBook Pro for more options in terms of processing and screen size.
Visit an Apple Store (the physical kind). The staff is very helpful and will assist ou in making a decision.
Message was edited by: Rysz

Which is better for the iPad mini a cover or a sleeve to protect my iPad

I have a new ipad mini but i dont know which can protect my ipad more a cover or a sleeve

Thanks for your reply but also which would be better for school and traveling

Which is better on the battery

Bluetooth or Wifi teathering?

Bluetooth 2.1 + EDR, which the iPhone offers, operates at 2.5 mW and has a useful transfer rate of 1.4 Mbps (3.0 Mbps raw).
WiFi operates at 100 mW and has a useful transfer rate over 50 Mbps.
Thus, WiFi uses a LOT more power (40 times as much) but has higher throughput.
The cellular data connect on 3G can be up to 4.5 Mbps, but most of the time will be around 1 Mbps. So you will lose a little on speed on BlueTooth but have much better battery life.

Which is better? The i-pod or Creatives mp3 playe

I am conducting a survey and I just wanted to know what everyone think. Is the I-pod better than Creatives mp3 players? If it is, why. Also, why is Creative mp3 players better. Thanks for your contribution.

iPods are nice and have a good amount of features. The iTunes online store is fantastic; very easy and nicely priced. You can't fault Apple for what they've been able to do- grab the mindshare for the MP3 market.
However, I have to side with the- SHOCK- WMA side of things.
The problem I wound up having with iTunes is that, if I want to choose a player for my purchased tunes, short of burning/ripping, was to buy an iPod.
However, buying with WMA, you have more choices, and you're not locked in. In fact, when I decided to change MP3 players, I went from a Zen Xtra to a Zen Touch. I really like the Creative brand. The interface is easy, I find, and I don't think Creative Mediasource is the dog that some have made it out to be. I looked at the Samsung YH-925GS, an Ipod (20GB), Zen Micro, and Rio Karma. I kept coming back to the Zen Touch. I think it looks great, handles great, has awesome battery life, is CHEAPER, and is the right size, both physically and with disk space.
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Applicant Conversion - Which is better of the 2 options and why?

Hi -
I needed your technical expertise to identify the easiest and most efficient method I should take for converting the applicants -
First option is to Convert the candidate into an applicant by applying to an existing vacancy (This is similar approach we do in the front end ).
Potential API Internal Name: CONVERT_TO_APPLICANT
Interface:HR_APPLICANT_API.
Second method is a two step process, convert the candidate into an applicant, then creating applicant assignment for all the jobs the candidate has applied for.
Potential API Internal Name: ACTIVATE_EMP_ASG, CREATE_SECONDARY_APL_ASG
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Which approach do you experts think would be the best option and why?
Early response is much appreciated.
Many Thanks,
Dinesh Babuji

If you are looking applicant creation without Assignment , Ist option is good
If you are looking applicant creation with Assignment , IInd option is good
Thanks

GX70 vs GT70 2OC - which is better in the long run?

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