Help with wireless rounter model: WRT54G gaming problem

hi guys, i always have problem using this rounter as people can not connect to my games because the rounter is blocking. so, what can i do to stop this problem?
thanks

get the port numbers from the game provider and forward the same on the router ..
if you don't know how to access the router , click here .. on the web ui , click on the "applications and gaming" tab and go to "port trigerring" subtab and enter the port numbers you have ..

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Wireless-G Model WRT54GS V7 Firmware 7.50.0 - easylink Advisor 1.5.1044

I have a Wireless-G Model WRT54GS V7.50.0 Firmware for easylink Advisor 1.5.1044
Connected to a highspeed connection, and then connected (Hardwired in port 1 of router) to a Dell system running XP SP3.
I bought a new Laptop that is running Windows 7 and the laptop causes the connections to drop when it is powered on.
Then the laptop is always dropping the connection and re-establishing the connection. Is this problem because of windows 7?
If I do not bring the laptop up, i can run the desktop with no problem. Running WPA security mode.
Thanks in advance for any help you can give me.
John

Is your Desktop computer is a Wired or Wireless? Are you facing the problem only on your Windows 7 Computer or on all the wireless computers?
You can try to change the Wireless Settings on your Router and check if that makes any difference...
Login to the setup page of your Router and click on the Wireless tab.... and below change the Wireless Channel to 11-2.462GHz and click on Save settings.... Then click on the Sub tab "Advance Wireless Settings" and below Change the Beacon Interval to 50 .....Change the Fragmentation Threshold to 2304 Change the RTS Threshold to 2307 ....Click on "Save Settings"...
Now see if you can locate your Wireless Network and attempt to connect...

Wireless G model WRT54G VERSION 8

I have Wireless G model WRT54G VERSION 8 and I was wondering is there anyway for me to turn off the wireless part cause I have no use for it right now. I just want to use the wired connections ports to connect my computer and my xbox360.

User's manual, page 9, wireless network mode.

Need help with wireless speeds..

I just got myself a WRT54GS wireless router and i have noticed the speeds being extremely slow. I've gone through all of the threads and didn't get anything that could help. I have tried what some mention, about changing the beacon interval to 50 and the Frag and RTS to 2304. Also i have changed the wireless channel a couple of times. Still nothing..
Now onto my connection in general, i have cable and the speeds when direct connected are very fast. I typically download at about 300kb+ and i can get mb download speeds as well. But while hooked up wirelessly it has been going at about 20kbs. When i try and watch streaming videos and all, it will be break up and all of that..due to the slow speed. BTW i don't believe there is anything interfering at all. The comp is in the same room as the router as well
This is my first time dealing with wireless, so any info and help would be greatly appreciated. What are some good ways to get the speeds up? The comp i have is new as well lol I know it limits a lot of the help, but this is a pain in the butt. Thanks
Message Edited by Ichigo on 07-22-2007 10:13 AM
Message Edited by Ichigo on 07-22-2007 11:58 AM

Set "SSID Broadcast" to "enabled". This will help your computer find and lock on to your router's signal.
Poor wireless connections are often caused by radio interference from other 2.4 GHz devices. This includes wireless phones, wireless baby monitors, microwave ovens, wireless mice and keyboards, wireless speakers, and your neighbor's wireless network. In rare cases, Bluetooth devices can interfere. Even some 5+ GHz phones also use the 2.4 Ghz band. Unplug these devices, and see if that corrects your problem.
In your router, try a different channel. There are 11 channels in the 2.4 GHz band. Usually channel 1, 6, or 11 works best. Check out your neighbors, and see what channel they are using. Because the channels overlap one another, try to stay at least +5 or -5 channels from your strongest neighbors. For example, if you have a strong neighbor on channel 9, try any channel 1 through 4.
Also, try to locate the router about 4 to 6 feet above the floor, in an open area. Do not locate it behind your monitor or near other computer equipment or speakers. The antenna should be vertical.
What encryption are you using? WEP? WPA? WPA2? Some systems work significantly better with one encryption system vs. another. So try something different. WEP is no longer recommended. You should be using WPA or preferably WPA2. Password (key) should not have any spaces in it.
Windows XP requires a patch to run WPA2 (= PSK2 = WPA with AES ). Go to Microsoft Knowledge base, article ID=893357 and it will direct you to the patch.
Sadly, the patch is not part of the automatic Windows XP updates, so lots of people are missing the patch.
Hope this helps.
Message Edited by toomanydonuts on 07-25-2007 05:24 AM

Help with wireless speed when wired is perfect!

I have Verizon FiOS internet and a Macbook 13" with OS X 10.6.4. When I am hard wired to my Verizon router, my internet speed is perfect (download/upload tests confirm this). When I am wireless, my internet crawls (and the download test reflects a FAR lower number). I spoke to Verizon and they said that it's not an internet problem because it works perfectly wired and that it's likely an Apple issue that's not allowing the wireless to work properly. My Verizon router IS next to my TV, but even when I moved it and put the computer right next to it, internet speed is incredibly slow. Let me know if you need further info and thanks so much in advance for any help!
Eric

Welcome to the discussions!
When I am wireless, my internet crawls (and the download test reflects a FAR lower number)
Is is possible for you to take the MacBook down to the coffee place, library or other location with wireless available? If so, you can test to see what type of connection you get.
If the MacBook connects well and pages load at good speeds...as I suspect they will...you will have confirmation that the MacBook is working fine and the issue is with the wireless on the FIOS router. If that's the case, you need to insist that FIOS techs come to your house so you can check out and test any changes they make before they leave.
If, on the other hand, you find that the MacBook still performs very slowly, then it's probably time to have the laptop's wireless card or internal antenna checked out for proper operation at the Apple store.

Help with Wireless thingy Please!!!

Hi, could someone please help with this? I am quite computer literate except when it comes to anything wireless or networking as it is something I've never used, so heres the problem - I bought ATV, and put a wireless card in the computer - do i need a seperate router to create a network? ATV searches for a network, and finds one, but I am not sure its mine!! ATV not coming up in itunes. Ive tried everything, but its just not happening. If I need a router, fine I'll get one, but if not could I have some instructions please?!!!! Like what on earth do I put in if adding network to atv manually? How do I know what my network name is? Tried with firewalls disabled, and added ports 3689 and 5353 to exceptions. Bearing in mind I need translations for things like DHCP etc! Its a Belkin Wireless G+ Network Card, compatible with ATV. Please help as this is the only thing standing between me and music heaven!!thankyou!

On a mac you could create an ad hoc network with a mac with wi-fi card only and internet sharing enabled, I've not done it and I don't know whether one has the choice to name the network or whether it will be identified as the mac's network name. I guess you will need advice from a PC guy as to whether this can be done on a PC, but my guess is that it can.

Can you help with wireless usb printing?

I have a D-Link router ([DI-824VUP) that works fine as far as geting online and printing to an ethernet printer,(HP1300n) wirelessly. I recently bought this router because it has a usb printer port, yet I can not get it to see the usb printer (Canon S830D). D-Link was no help, as they don't support Apple wireless printing, even though they do support wired printing via their router. QUESTION-any idea how to get powerbook to see the printer when connected to the router? Printer setup utility does not see it, only the HP. Thanks-bobbabe
OS 10.3.9.
Titanium Powerbook 667. Mac OS X (10.3.9) D-Link router(DI-824VUP)

Because this forum software is so absolutely USELESS now, you don't get to see the whole of the question in this view. In the other (non-list) view it says:
"can you help with a technical problem with the stereo imagery option ? it won't take out lead vocal in a stereo mp3"
And the answer is that if you can't isolate the vocal in the stereo field, or it is one of these odd ones where it's used inverted polarity in different parts of the stereo signal for the same vocal, then you won't be able to. But without a sample, it's impossible to tell. If you can post a link to one, that might help. It has to be external to this site though - Adobe in their infinite wisdom don't allow the posting of audio files on their audio U2U forum. Helpful, that, isn't it?

When I updated to 10.4.10, had problems with wireless. Able to fix problem

I have a mac mini G4 since Sep 06. I had no problems with wireless until I updated to 10.4.10. My problem was I could only connect to the internet for about 10 minutes then it would not respond. I had to turn off airport then turn it back on then it would work for about 10 more minutes. I have AT&T DSL, speed stream 4100 modem, and D Link 524 router. I went to D Link web site and found out when I use encryption WEP,WPA,ETC. it has to be hexadecimal key with dollar sign ($) before the hex key (Apple computers only). Before the update, I only used password with no problems for about 9 months. Instead of using a password use 64 bit encryption its 10 hexadecimal key or 128 bit encryption its 26 hexadecimal key. Valid hexadecimal characters are 0-9 and A-F. Example of 64 bit key is $0123456789 instead of password. After I did this, I been on the internet for hours with no problems. I hope this info can help out.

Take a look through some of the other threads in this forum. Almost 100% of Safari 3 trouble after the OS X 10.4.11 update is caused by third party plugins, extensions, and input managers. Check in these folders and report back what you have in them.
/Library/Internet Plug-Ins (this is the Library folder in the top level of your hard drive)
~/Library/Internet Plug-Ins (this is the Library folder located in your Home (username) folder)
/Library/Input Managers
~/Library/Input Managers
Or if you know that you have installed some third party stuff along the way try un-installing them. Again, read some of the other threads here to see who the main suspects are. Once you know what is causing your trouble then, if you still want to use the third party plug-in, go to a site like [Version Tracker|www.versiontracker.com] and look for updated versions that work with Safari 3.

Help with data load model

Hi,
I need help with a data load model. First, i'm doing delta extraction from R/3, we load data with a InfoSource to InfoCube A and InfoCube B.
I'm doing master data validation on the load, so if a load fails for InfoCube A, it fails for InfoCube B too (this is because i can have only 1 InfoPackage for the 2 infocubes, because of the delta update).
So i propose a new model in wich:
- The delta load is taked first to an ODS.
- ODS is cleaned before the delta update.
- Then i create 2 InfoPackages for full load from ODS to Infocube A, and from ODS to InfoCube B.
With this solution i can have 2 infopackages from ODS because i'm not doing a delta load from here to the cubes, and with 2 infopackages i can have independent validations for each cube so if one of them fails, the other can still be loaded sucessfully.
The solution fails because if i load delta from R/3 to the ODS i can't clean it first. The initialization and the old updates needs to be previuslly loaded on the ODS. Then i can't do full load to the cubes and neither have 2 infopackages.
Please help me to solve this issue.
thanks a lot

Hi jeremy,
what about this simple solution:
load data by delta from R/3 in your ODS. You can also have an ODS/cube for the historical data which is more space-saving than holding all the old data in PSA. Then you load your historical data from PSA into the historical ODS/cube.
From your ODS with the actual data you update your requests by full from ODS into the cubes with 2 different full infopackages. But because you load by full you have to use deletion selections in the infopackages to avoid duplicate data!
regards,
Jürgen

Need Help With Wireless Bridging

Hello all, I have recently perchased high speed WiFi for my house so I could do some gaming on my Xbox. Problem is my roommate, who is a tech support professional, set the modem up in his bedroom, my Xbox is old and requires a wireless adapter to pick up signals but since the modem is so far away from it it barely recieves the signal. So currently I'm paying for nothing so I confronted him about this issue and he attempted to fix it by wirelessly bridging a router to the modem but after a month he hasn't succeeded and has given up so now it's up to me and I have no clue where to even begin. The modem we have is a Cisco DPC3825 and the router is a NetGear Wireless-N Router WVR2000 V2. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Denver: I did not actually understand what kind of bridging you want to do?
The modem already has a wireless transmitter. I think you mean the router is picking up the wireless signal and provide the xbox with connectivity via wired cable. is that right?
If correct, It looks like the issue is with the distance/barriers between your modem and router. You need to try to eliminate some barriers in between to get better signl. Try also to put the devices as close as possible to each other.
HTH
Amjad
Rating useful replies is more useful than saying "Thank you"

Please help with wireless printing

I am running a wireless network in the house and having trouble printing. The printer (Canon MP800) is connected via USB to my Windows XP desktop. The desktop is connected via Ethernet to a 2Wire DSL modem that broadcasts the wireless signal to my Powerbook G4 running OSX (10.4.10). I can’t get the powerbook to print, though.
I have followed the instructions at http://www.ifelix.co.uk/tech/3015.html up to the point where it says:
“Select the printer but do not click Add as you need to change the Printer Model.”
“Under Printer Model select HP.”
I assume that since I am using a Canon that I should look for Canon instead of HP. The only options I get are
Generic
Other
Apple
ESP
“Generic” is a selection all by itself
“Other” opens up a finder dialog box that allows me to choose a file on my harddrive, but I have no idea where to go.
“Apple” opens a pulldown menu that allows me to select from a list of Apple printers.
“ESP” opens a pulldown menu that allows me to select from a list of other printers. This list includes Epson, HP, etc. but does not include any Canon printers.
I selected the “Generic” option. When I try to print from the powerbook, I have noticed that the printer queue on my Windows XP desktop shows a document entitled “Remote Downlevel Document.” The printer queue spools up with this document, it appears to go through the cycle and then disappear (as a normal print document does), but nothing happens on the printer.
The desktop will print normally. The powerbook will print normally when I connect the printer to it via the USB cable but another printer is created in the Printer List. This printer is named MP800 and is kind: Canon MP800 whereas the first attempt (wirelessly) names it Canon MP8 and is kind: Generic Postscript Printer.
In troubleshooting I have attempted to remove and reload the printer from both the powerbook and the desktop independently to no avail. I have even temporarily removed the firewall (Norton 360) from the desktop to make sure that wasn’t it.
I Googled the term “Remote Downlevel Document” and discovered that it was associated with a virus that affects print servers. I updated my Norton anti-virus and did a full system scan which came up clean. Some of the Google results also suggested that there might be clutter in one of the printer folders in Windows. I should remove any .tmp files I find there, but when I followed the path, there were no such files in that folder.
I apologize for the length but I wanted to make sure I had a full and accurate account in case someone might be able to point me in the next appropriate direction. Thanks for whatever advice you can offer.
I am cross posting this question on the macbookpro yahoo group, the applemac yahoo group and the apple discussion page.

still looking for some help on this intriguing matter... if anyone can help out, i'd really appreciate it! thanks.
edited original post:
I have a Samsung ML-1710 printer which we use with both an iMac and an iBook. When the iMac needs the printer, we connect the printer's USB cable to the iMac. When the iBook needs the printer, we connect the printer's USB cable to the Airport Extreme Base Station (AEBS).
Both the computers use the AEBS - the iMac is connected via ethernet (DSL modem) and the iBook connects to the AEBS wireless network.
The small annoyance of having to change the USB cable aside, there is a bigger problem. After every time the printer is used by the iMac, printing does not go through on the iBook. The only solution I've found is to restart the AEBS (through AirPort Admin Utility). As this interrupts the wireless network, it is a major annoyance.
I do not want to spend $ on an Airport card for the iMac at this point...
Is there any way to correct this? Thanks in advance for your help.

Help with wireless router and usb adapter

I have a model WRT54G2V1 and a USB adapter. They were working fine until about 3 months ago, then suddenly I couldn't connect to the internet. I began using my wife's computer for my email. I have a web site that I need to update. I spent 2-hours with Tech support today and they could not help me. The error messages say "cannot find access point" and then sometimes "cannot connect to internet". I think it may be my computer, but am very unsure. I have unistalled and reinstalled with no luck. Can anyone help me, please? I'm lost and not good with this stuff. Thanks.

In your computer click on "start" then "connect to" then "show all connections". You should be seeing two icons under "lan or high speed internet" Your wireless connection should showing a blue screen while the lan should be greyed out. If the lan is showing a blue screen right click on it and click on disable. Now try to connect using your wireless adaptor. If it did not work go to #2.
Disconnect wireless adaptor then go into programs and uninstall wireless adaptor program. Reconnect wireless adaptor to computer. The "found new hardware" should appear. Run the wizard and when it asks for drivers insert Linksys cd. Try to connect. You may have to click on repair if you don't succeed then try again. Go to #3
Powercycle your router. Try to connect. I have three computers connected wirelessly and the one farthest away from the router has problems connecting. Usually this solves the problem.
Greetings from Northern Ontario, Canada

Help with wireless network set up on 8820

Can someone please give me some help before I pull the rest of my hair out!
I am trying to connect my 8820 and also an 8110 to our home wireless network, each time I go through the set up procedure and find the network, put in the correct WEP key and then try and connect it gives me the following error messages on both phone "Device failed to associate with the AP." can some one please tell me where I am going wrong?
I have changed the home network from WPA to WEP as there is no option for WPA in the settings.
Help Please.
Many thanks in advance

I am unable to connect a 8820 on my network with same message noted by User: leomyles. I am able connect my Bold 9000 without any difficulty. Does anyone have any suggestions? I would not have thought there should be such a problem within 2 Blackberry models.
I too need help on resolving this issue. I would have chosen another model for my staff had I known such a problem existed.

Help with Password Set up WRT54G

I set up this router forever ago and apparently it says I created a password, but I don't remember doing so and I have no idea what the password would be in order to set it up again on my computer. Is there a way to reset or use something else. I tried using Admin and that isn't working either. Please Help. Thanks

Have you been running an unsecured wireless network? With a router login password of "admin" ? If so, then most likely your neighbor wirelessly connected to your router (intentionally or unintentionally) and changed your login password.
The only way to remove the password is to reset the router to factory defaults, then setup the router again from scratch. After you have done this, to prevent this problem from recurring, be sure to change the login password from the default of "admin", and secure your wireless network.
To reset your router to factory defaults, use the following procedure:
1) Power down all computers, the router, and the modem, and unplug them from the wall.
2) Disconnect all wires from the router.
3) Power up the router and allow it to fully boot (1-2 minutes).
4) Press and hold the reset button for 30 seconds, then release it, then let the router reset and reboot (2-3 minutes).
5) Power down the router.
6) Connect one computer by wire to port 1 on the router (NOT to the internet port).
7) Power up the router and allow it to fully boot (1-2 minutes).
8) Power up the computer (if the computer has a wireless card, make sure it is off).
9) Try to ping the router. To do this, click the "Start" button > All Programs > Accessories > Command Prompt. A black DOS box will appear. Enter the following: "ping 192.168.1.1" (no quotes), and hit the Enter key. You will see 3 or 4 lines that start either with "Reply from ... " or "Request timed out." If you see "Reply from ...", your computer has found your router.
10) Open your browser and point it to 192.168.1.1. This will take you to your router's login page. Leave the user name blank, and in the password field, enter "admin" (with no quotes). This will take you to your router setup page. Note the version number of your firmware (usually listed near upper right corner of screen). Exit your browser.
If you get this far without problems, try the setup disk (or setup the router manually, if you prefer), and see if you can get your router setup and working.
If you cannot get "Reply from ..." in step 9 above, your router is dead.
If you get a reply in step 9, but cannot complete step 10, then either your router is dead or the firmware is corrupt. In this case, use the Linksys tftp.exe program to try to reload your router with the latest firmware. After reloading the firmware, repeat the above procedure starting with step 1.
If you need additional help, please state your ISP, the make and model of your modem, your router's firmware version, and the results of steps 9 and 10. Also, if you get any error messages, copy them exactly and report back.
Please let me know how things turn out for you.
Message Edited by toomanydonuts on 12-29-2007 04:07 AM

Please help with strange monitor/Lightroom 4 interaction problem

I bought a Dell Ultrasharp U3011 yesterday, and I'm now facing a very strange problem. It's sort of related to the common discussed issue of Lightroom's color management, but there is a twist here. I'll explain.
The monitor I had been using (and still have) was a Samsung SyncMaster 244T. I had no problems at all with it.
With the U3011, I've run into this problem:
-When I view files in Lightroom 4, the colors are muted and contrast low. The same files seen in Xnview, ACDSee Pro (with the color management turned off), Digital Photo Professional (colorspace set to sRGB), are much more vivid. In Photoshop, if I use the default color setting, it looks muted like Lightroom (I'm guessing because Adobe products have default color profile set to ProPhoto RGB), but if I set the color profile to the monitor's profile, it becomes vivid and matches the other software I mentioned. If I use any other profile such as sRGB IEC81966-2.1, ProPhoto RGB, Adobe RGB, etc, it doesn't match the other software I mentioned. This is strange because the other ones match each other because they are set to sRGB, but in Photoshop, even if I set the color profile to sRGB, it still doesn't match.
-In Lightroom 4, even if I use Soft Proofing, nothing changes. It's as if Soft Proofing is broken--it doesn't do anything, no matter what color profile I choose.
-Now, here's the twist. I didn't have any of these problems when I use the 244T. This leads me to assume that the problem is how the U3011 is interacting with Lightroom. I did a quick comparison of opening up the same image on both monitors in ACDSee Pro, and they looked identical. (At this point, I had the U3011's preset set to sRGB. This is the only preset that makes the U3011 look identical to the 244T).
Next, I did an experiment, and I was very surprised by what happened. This is what I did:
With both monitors as a dual display setup, I turned on Before/After comparison in Lightroom (made sure both version had the same setting and look identical by copying the After's setting to Before). I then moved Lightroom's window so that one photo is seen on the U3011, and the other shows up on the 244T. And OMIGOD, they looked different! Why is this happening? I've already established that the same image looks identical on both monitors when viewed with ACDSee Pro, but in Lightroom, they looked different on each monitor.
And then things got even more weird. When I dragged the Lightroom window fully to one monitor or the other, Lightroom actually started changing the colors right before my eyes as it responded to which monitor was displaying which photo! Lightroom was somehow interacting with the monitor in real-time. So if the Before looked muted on U3011 and the After looked vivid on the 244T, when I drag the whole window into 244T, the muted Before will stay muted for about a second or so, and then it'll suddenly change and become identical to After. And when I did the reverse (drag the window into U3011), the reverse also happened--the vivid After will stay vivid on U3011 for about a second or so, and then it would suddenly change and become muted. Lightroom was identifying each monitor's color profile setting and changing the images according to which monitor was doing the displaying, and when the images were split between the two monitors, Lightroom was slitting them into two different settings to match whichever monitor is displaying which side.
So what the hell does that all mean, and what can I do to get Lightroom to display the photos so that they look the same as on all the other software I mentioned (so I don't have to play the guessing game of editing the images, export them out to other software to check how they turned out). Also, remember that I didn't have this problem with the 244T--Lightroom displayed the photos the same way as the other software I mentioned. The problem right now is that the U3011 is somehow causing Lightroom to display the photos differently, and no color profile presets in the OSD control can make them match.
I need to solve this problem, or else my last resort would be to return the U3011 and try another brand/model and see if that helps.
Any ideas?

Yes, that's basically sensible advice you got there (but I was more succinct ).
An important point that was mentioned over there is that you must not confuse document/source profile with monitor profile. They are both links in the color management chain, but they serve different purposes. The document profile defines the colors in a standard color space. The monitor profile describes the monitor's own native color space - its response to the RGB numbers it's fed. So one is translated into the other, by the application on the fly, through a normal profile conversion, and that way the colors appear on-screen as intended.
If those two profiles/color spaces are roughly similar, as they would be in the case of an sRGB document displayed on a standard gamut display - then you can get by without color management. It won't look too far off. But a wide gamut monitor changes the rules, because its native color space is not similar to sRGB, it's much closer to Adobe RGB.
Anyway, this is what color management is about. Any profile can be translated into any other. So in this context it doesn't really matter what color space the document is in - as long as you have a good monitor profile it will display correctly (within practical limitations). Lightroom is a sort of special case because its internal working color space is not one of the standard ones, instead it's a modified ProPhoto space with linear gamma. But the basic principle is exactly the same: source profile > monitor profile.
Just to go a little more in-depth while I'm at it: When you calibrate a display you actually do two separate things. You first calibrate it to a more or less standardized response. But that's just a linear one-dimensional correction. It does nothing about how color is actually reproduced, how red is red for instance. The calibration is global and affects everything system-wide because it's read into the video card or monitor hardware.
Then, once calibrated, a monitor profile is made. This is a full, complete and accurate description of the monitor's behavior, in three-dimensional color space. The precision level is much higher. This profile is used, by color managed applications like Lightroom and Photoshop, to display the image.
Other applications that are not color managed will simply ignore this profile, and send the RGB numbers straight through to the display, unmodified. With a standard gamut monitor (and an sRGB document) the difference won't be too dramatic and you may not notice it unless you look closely. But a wide gamut monitor will make the difference jump out immediately.

Help with wireless rounter model: WRT54G gaming problem

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