Hi, need some assistance over here.

Hi guys, can i check with you guys wha
t does this source code means?
<?xml version="1.0" encoding="utf-8"?>
<s:Application xmlns:fx="http://ns.adobe.com/mxml/2009" xmlns:s="library://ns.adobe.com/flex/spark" xmlns:mx="library://ns.adobe.com/flex/halo" creationComplete="init()" minWidth="1500" minHeight="1000" height="859">
    <mx:DataGrid x="19" y="368" id="playlistgrid" width="289" height="147">
        <mx:columns>
            <mx:DataGridColumn headerText="Name" dataField="name" width="180"/>
            <mx:DataGridColumn dataField="starttime" headerText="Start" width="50"/>
            <mx:DataGridColumn dataField="endtime" headerText="End" width="50"/>
            <mx:DataGridColumn dataField="livesource" headerText="DVR" width="50"/>
        </mx:columns>
    </mx:DataGrid>
<mx:DataGrid x="20" y="38" id="sourcegrid" width="289" height="126">
        <mx:columns>
            <mx:DataGridColumn headerText="Name" dataField="name" width="200"/>
        </mx:columns>
    </mx:DataGrid>
    <mx:Label x="18" y="16" text="Source files (on Demand)"/>
   <mx:DataGrid x="20" y="195" id="livestreamgrid" width="289" height="74">
        <mx:columns>
            <mx:DataGridColumn headerText="Name" dataField="name" width="200"/>
        </mx:columns>
    </mx:DataGrid>
    <mx:DataGrid x="17" y="570" id="outputgrid" width="289" height="207">
        <mx:columns>
            <mx:DataGridColumn headerText="Name" dataField="name" width="200"/>
        </mx:columns>
    </mx:DataGrid>
    <mx:Label x="15" y="548" text="Exported highlights (for on-demand CDN)"/>
    <mx:Label x="18" y="174" text="Live DVR streams"/>
    <s:Button x="19" y="312" label="Set In Point" id="setin_btn"/>
    <s:Button x="107" y="312" label="Set Out Point" id="setout_btn"/>
    <s:Button x="19" y="339" label="Add selected clip to Playlist" id="addtoplay_btn"/>
    <s:Button x="21" y="519" label="Generate on-demand file" id="generate_btn"/>
    <s:TextInput x="19" y="284" width="83" id="inpoint_txt"/>
    <s:TextInput x="106" y="284" width="93" id="outpoint_txt"/>
    <s:TextArea x="216" y="284" height="21" id="currenttimecode" editable="false" textAlign="center" width="90"/>
    <s:TextArea x="17" y="785" width="370" id="status_txt" fontSize="12" height="63"/>
Despite this source code was copied from the tutorial guide, when i complied it to flex 4, I'm having errors on those line in bold and red.
My question would be,
Firstly, what does this whole source code means? Can any kind soul help me out?
Secondly, what does the error means? The error code reported was :
"Could not resolve <mx:DataGrid> to a component implementation.

This mxml-code layouts some flex components... DataGrid is a table like DataContainer which is organized in rows and columns.
The DataGridColumn defines the Data presented in one of this columns. The error you get usally means that you are missing the
import statement for the datagrid-component(import mx.controls.DataGrid;). My advise is that maybe get a book about the new Flex 4 Framework(because a lot has changed and most tutorials, in my opinion, are outdated now) and invest some time to get you head
around the very basics of flex before starting with this web tutorials.
All the best.

Similar Messages

Hi all i need some guide over here ^^

HI,
i doing BDCbdc for FB60 and i will need to run 1 more BDC before i PARK the doc.
The first BDC is to set the company code to 1000
But there is a problem if the company code in FB60 is 1000, then the BDC i run will fail.
IF the company code in FB60 is 1234 ad i try to set it as 1000, the BDC will run success.
therefore i think of a way, is there any way that i will able to know what is the company code in FB60 WITHOUT looking at the company code in FB60.
Is there a method that BDC can validate the company in FB60.
e.g
IF (company code in FB60) = 1000.
perform ........
else.
perform .......
ENDIF.
Points will be awared
Thanks,
guanwei

hi thanks for reply,
i know about this but what if the company have many company codes and once the BDC run.
the BDC have to check now the FB60 is 1000 or 1234 because different company code using different vendor. this is why i need to validate now the FB60 is using 1000 or 1234.
because there are too many company code, and if i have to set the company code in FB60 manual everytime it will become troublesome.
In FB60 transaction the system first promt for entering the company code
this will only happen when never use FB60 before, after you have set it to 1000, next time try to go to FB60 again it will not Promt to enter company code. it will use the last company code you have set.
that is why i need some guide on how to know what is the company code it using now by not going into FB60 itself.
Thanks
guanwei

Goshh, need some help over here!

hi everyne.
need help.
U insert a number e.g ( -12 ) the operation will be: (-1) + 2 = 1
e.g : - 42 = (-4) + 2 = -2
I cannot find a way to do that.
here is the code for simple sum:
int sum = 0;
          int aux;
          int digit = 0;
          System.out.print("Insert a number: ");
          int num = Teclado.intLido();
          aux = num;
          while(aux != 0 ) {
            digit = aux % 10;
            aux = aux / 10;
            if(digit > 0) {
                 sum += digit; when i say "digit > o " this digit is the second one, because the first is always positive.
So i need help to find a way to tell the computer if the second digit is negative it will deduct. e.g -12 -> (-1 ) + 2 = 1
Anyone could tell how to tell the computer if the second digit is negative or positive. I cannot find a way to tell that.
thanks!
Josh

what about num / 10 + Math.abs(num % 10) ?
:D
i know and with strings and length () to count the digits will be easier too.
But i can't use Math.abs etcc string length() etc.. just loops :P
Just wanna know how to tell the computer if the second digits (from right to left) is neg or pos. if neg (-12) (-1) +2 = 1 or (-41) = -4 +1 = -3
using this method with something else.
while(aux != 0 ) {
          digit = aux % 10;
          aux = aux / 10;
          if(digit > 0) {
               soma = soma + digito;
          }else if (digit < 0) {
// this line is wrong because i want it to see if the SECOND digit is < 0 and not the first which is always positive.
               sum = sum - digit;
Do u know what i mean?

We Need Some Developer Recognition Here

Forgive me if I missed something of this sort, but it seems to me that we need some sort of "About the Developers" page. Looking around, I have very little idea of who the devs are anymore, and I think they need more recognition for their work. Just throwing this out there, it's a feeling I've had for a while.

Gah, I've been proven an idiot within 10 minutes. Oh well, it's happened before.
EDIT: LOL, now I get the joke behind Iphitus' avatar.
Last edited by arew264 (2008-08-17 17:03:56)

Need serious help over here...

Hi guys...need serious help...I am using nokia lumia 710 for the past 3months...today i tried to reset my phone,but after resetting my phone dint restart...it keeps on rebboting after the WINDOWS PHONE screen apears...So i need some help...i tried pressing power on,camera and volume up and down button to reset again...but nothing happening...if i charge the phone it does the same...plz help me

Did you try removing the Battery for a couple of minutes, insert back and see if it makes any difference ? If no change then you need to visit Nokia Care

MSI Pro-E Chipset Cooling (Need Some Major Clarification Here Before I Begin)

Hey guys, about to bring up a very well known issue here, which brought about many 'heated' debates, no pun intended :P I know there has been many threads on this issue for nearly 2 years now, and well, i did tons of reading on the subject, starting with this classic thread here: https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=126885.0 and various others. I'll try and keep this as short as i can and get right to the point. I know what needs to be done, and the method i will be going with (though i am still debating with some options on the final decision), so i wont even bother going into all of that and save myself and you guys some time here. I am quite certain that HU16E has seen more than enough of these threads, and that every time he sees one, he probably gets a brain ache (sorry man )
But basically, i want to remove the stock heatsink on my X58 Pro-E mobo, and replace BOTH the NB and SB heatsinks. This is something very simple to do, take maybe no more than half hour to get it all removed, put the new TIM on, reseat it, etc, and i am all done. The only problem is having to gut the system and put everything back, which takes even longer to do and is something i am not looking forward to doing, but i am just not comfy with an idle temp of 78c-80c, so i want to take care of all this asap. Yes, i know that is under Intels specs, and yes, it IS working, but i haven't even bothered to play any games on this new system yet, because i know if i was to fire up a power hungry game, that the temps would be well over 90c, and that is just NOT GOOD.
What i want to be sure of, and the main question here, is do any of you know, FOR CERTAIN, which heatsink will fit this mobo without any blood, sweat, tears, tedious modding and cussing up a storm and throwing temper tantrums? Or even worse, getting the heatsink and having it not fit at all? That is something i want to avoid, as it just wastes more time having to send it back, look for another and just creates more hassle. If i do decide to actually hacksaw the heatpipe that links the stock NB/SB together, well at that point, there is no going back, and when i go to put the new heatsinks on and they wind up not fitting, i am basically screwed and wont be able to use the pc for days until finding the right one, so again, i want to avoid all of that.
In that thread i linked to above, he mentions he used that Thermalright NB heatsink, but the problem here, is that he was using the Eclipse mobo, which is not the one i have. I seen some others in that thread saying that they had the PRO-E, but never went into enough detail that they used that same heatsink. It seems like it would fit ok, but 'seems' isn't good enough, and i need to be certain it would. Looking in the system right now, i can lower the gfx card to PCI-E slot 2, to make even more room, so shouldn't be a problem i would think.
But then i came across this thread, and found it quite interesting: https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=129044.0
Now this person used that Thermaltake Spirit 2 NB cooler, but it seems Thermaltake yanked that off the market, because the link to newegg in the thread, now shows it OUT OF STOCK/DEACTIVATED. Also if you go here:
http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/Product.aspx?S=1231&ID=1901 and click the pic of the old Spirit 2, it then leads you here: http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/Product.aspx?S=1231&ID=1901 , so they obviously recalled the other one for whatever reason. I am guessing because that one was copper, and this one is aluminum and also smaller and virtually do the same job as the other. This one seems really nice and would definitely be the one i would like to go with, since it has a 40mm fan on it all in one, unlike the Thermalright, which doesn't come with a fan (but can use an 80mn fan as well with the mounting contents it comes with). Based on what i have been reading about this issue, if i reseat everything properly, use AS5 and make sure the fans are blowing properly, this Thermaltake heatsink should have virtually the same effect as the Thermalright would. Of course, this leaves the SB completely exposed, which leads to me part 2 of this person's post. He linked to this NB/SB cooler, which is just about the same size as the stock SB cooler, and he 'claims' it fits just fine:
http://www.xoxide.com/enzotech-cnb-s1l.html
There is also another model by the same company, which has a small fan on it too:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835708006
The first one would definitely fit, at least where the gfx card is concerned, albeit, barely. Not sure if the one with the fan would, but then again, based on all that i've read so far, that seems like overkill, since the SB doesn't get hot at all, only lukewarm at this point, and a decent heatsink is all that is really needed. However, i say this person 'claimed' it fit, 'supposedly', because he never posted pics when asked about it, and then disappeared from his own thread shortly after. And what spoiled the whole read for me, was another person posting this:
"The enzotech low profile heatsink will not fit on the south bridge because the hole to hole diameter is too large for it to match up against the mounting holes of the south bridge on the x58 boards.
The Enzotech CNB-S1L has 2 possible hole-hole diameters: 54.6 mm and 59mm. However, the mounting holes on the mobo are only 49mm apart. So the Enzotech heatsink designed for the northbridge will not fit on the south bridge.
If you somehow managed to make it fit, please post pics."
So yea, now i can't be certain that heatsink would fit on the SB, and if this guy was telling the truth, if he did his own modding to force it to fit, or what. Yes, i can hacksaw the pipe off, and leave the stock SB heatsink there, but...i figure if i am going to replace one, i may as well replace the other while i am doing all of that. Like i said, i don't want to have to find out it doesn't upon installing it, because that is just unnecessary time being wasted.
And there you have it, guys. Now, i am no expert at all when it comes a lot of this stuff, as far as certain technical aspects go, but many posters here really know their stuff and from what i have read here and on other forums, i feel like a total noob sometimes lol. So all this boils down to, and what i really need to know, is will all the heatsinks that i have outlined here, fit this motherboard properly? I really need to take care of this asap, because this thing running at 78-80 all the time is really going to lower it's life span, and every second that it does, is just one less second of use. Maybe that is being a lil too dramatic, but still, i've seen so many get their temps down to the low 40s and 50s, so i know for sure this board DOES NOT need to be running that hot :-/
On another note, i noticed many saying they wanted to add nuts/washers or whatever, to give better stability and contact. Well, since as i am as bad as it gets with carpentry, measuring, etc, i have no damn idea which ones i would need. I once was asked to measure something long ago when i worked as a laborer for a carpenter and reported back, saying to him '2/3s'. The guy looked at me like i had two heads lmao. Fortunately, i can read a ruler/measuring tape much better now lol, but i'm still no Norm, from This Old House. I hear all this talk of 'spring mounts', 'push pins' 'mounting holes', 'screws', etc. Since i am unable to see the back of my mobo right now (only the CPU area from the other side of the case panel when removed), i have no idea if its using metal screws, or push pins, or what. I see the heatsinks i mentioned here, as well as many others, use these various methods, so im uncertain what would work on this board (if it needs plastic/nylon screws or metal ones). Now, i checked out this youtube vid of a guy showing how to remove my exact mobo and reseat it with new/better paste. It was quite informative. Just so you guys know, i have the older 'brown colored' Pro-E board. The one in the video looks to be the same color. However, i just purchased this board, along with the whole system less than 3 weeks ago, so i don't know how old this Pro-E may be.
Another important question about what this guy did in the vid too. You can fast-forward to where he takes it apart. Looks to me like they are metal screws, but again, im unsure if mine use those. The front of the heatsinks have two holes, those of which i can easily see, and have what looks to be a plastic washer or something on it. It looks 'greyish'. Now, A VERY IMPORTANT issue in this vid, is this guy removed the THERMAL PADDING on the heatsinks. I read here all over the place, that you are NOT SUPPOSED TO DO THAT, as to ensure that the heatsinks aren't touching any components on the board, the chipset itself. As you can see in the first couple comments, the guy says 'Yes, the existing pads were scraped off. It's important to remove the old thermal pads, otherwise you won't have any benefit & it may even be worse.' So yea. all that does is just confuse me more. Considering how gunked up, though, that the paste will be when removing it, i can only image that the stock pad on there is probably gonna be pretty nasty as well too, which is why he probably took it all off. But yea, wondering if you guys could clarify that for me, if that should be done or not. Seems many here were very firm that it should NEVER be removed.
I can honestly i never have had an issue with MSI until now, and they do put out quality products, but i hope in the future, that newer mobos would use better TIM and have a fan added on the NB or something. Other manufacturers do this, some don't, but they ALL should, so i am not just singling out MSI here. We live in an age where technology is very capricious and always progressing, and back in the day, well, PCs didn't require crazy amounts of fans, watercooling, etc. But with things putting out so much wattage these days, apps/games/movies requiring better hardware, which also needs more power and/or outputs a lot too, well you don't have to work for NASA to know that heat is going to be a problem, and the motherboard being an obvious vital component, should be adequately cooled just as well as everything else that needs it. I do love this board, and it does more than enough to suit my needs, i just wish it didn't run so dang hot That's the ONLY gripe i have about it.

Hey, HU16E, and others,
I just wanted to let you know that i finally broke down and attempted this procedure (after a lot of hesitation), and everything worked out perfectly as you said, WITHOUT having to buy some aftermarket chipset cooler. Maybe it was meant to be for me, because i learned a crap load of things in the process and in the end, it wasn't as hard or grueling as i thought (although 1 process was, which ill get to shortly lol).
Once i finally got everything gutted (well, just the stuff attached to the mobo), i then removed it, and hit a wall, because the screws that hold down the chipset heatsink, wouldnt fit any phillips head screw drivers had, so i had to stop, run out and buy a lil six pack of VERY small philips and flat heads. I had assumed during my extensive research on all of this, that those screws used the 6-32 size, which is pretty much the smallest i could find out there. Many pointed out the RC/Model Airplane hobby shops, but nothing i could find out where i live. Those 4 screws differ from everything else in the case. I thought they would be the M3 type screw (6-32), which on the wiki for pc-screws, had said they were commonly used on most mobos. But anyway, i got those off with the right screwdriver, and that was where the 'grueling' part came in.
The NB heatsink came off after 5 minutes of careful wiggling/rocking/twisting to the left and right. I never once PULLED UPWARD, until it was VERY LOOSE, in fear that i would crack the NB die, because if that happened, well, the mobo would basically have become nothing more than a good coffee cup stand). The SB took about 20 minutes since it was cemented on there pretty good. I had to use a wrench and lock both sides of it on there, and then again, just twisted to the left n right carefully, because my hands/fingers were too big to get a grip on the heatsink it uses. Finally, it came off, and i was good to go, but my goodness.....
...not to sound to harsh here, but man, that original paste it had was just terrible, HU16E. This Pro-E i have is the brownish colored one, and so, it had this pink, bubble gum stuff, that was VERY sticky and hard, and i can now see why these heating issues were taking place. Also, the HS itself wasnt as tight as when i finally put it all back. I used alcohol and qtip swab, and also your toothpick method of scraping from the outside, in, to form a clump, which worked well, but the thinner residue afterward was a real hassle to get off there, both on the HS and the NB die/SB surface. Used a butterknife on the HS, but only soft and non-metallic stuff on the NB die, and just kept wiping with alcohol and a microfiber pad for what felt like an eternity until it just basically dissolved and got that nice mirror finish. I used 4 of the 6-32 washers between the stock screw/spring/washer, and believe it or not, it fit very well. It's not loose, the screws head doesnt go through it at all, and once it was scerwed in nice n tight, there was no play at all, so it worked out really well. I mean, at most while it was loose, was probably just a micro millimeter of space while it was around the screws shaft, but again, once it was in there it was tight as can be. I used Arctic Cooling MX-4, since it one of the best out there and i liked the fact it was non-conductive. From what i have read about pastes, metallic-based compounds just arent necessary in this day and age anymore. Also replace the paste on the CPU cooler too.
So i fired up, and well...checked the bios temps, and there ya have it. Went from 82 degrees, down to 48! That definitely made it all worth it. Now i can finally do some gaming/hd content without having to worry about it going into the 90s. It hasnt even exceeded 60 on load, so all is well for sure Also have an antec spot fan set on medium and aimed right over the NB and added a 200mm fan on the top of case, acting as exhaust, so im sure that all plays a part too.
Honestly, though, i really hope MSI is NOT using that paste anymore, because it really is just....well.....ill just say it's BAD lol. It sure as hell would work awesome for some kind of adhesive or glue that is for sure lmao. Maybe MSI should hold onto to that stuff, and give the glue market some competition lol. But yea, as a thermal compound, umm...i just sure hope they switched to a good type of paste for all their future mobos, especially the z68s. I also don't believe that the NB/SB heatsink ever needed a combo type deal, via the heat pipe, as this just creates more tedium. Heck, i dont even think the SB even needs a HS on it, as it doesn't even give off much heat at all. Mine is barely lukewarm to the touch. Not to mention, when taking it off, the heat pipe tends 'move/bend' a bit, and this means the heatsinks on either side will not match up well, or be perfectly parallel when you seat them back on the board. I had to keep bending it gently and standing it on my table til all 4 pegs on the bottom would touch, this way i would know that it'd reseat properly. I hope in the future that MSI will scrap that whole linked HS set-up.
As i stated before, love the board, and the TIM issue was the only issue i had with it, and now since that is resolved, i have no gripes whatsoever. Down the line, ill probably get a z68 soon, and wouldn't mind at all going with MSI, but id like to be assured first that some changes were made to the chipset cooling, because even though this was all a good learning experience for me, it is not something i want to go through again lol.
But hey, thanks a bunch for all of your advice HU16E and other mods as well. I was going to go with that Thermalright HS, and your posts (past and present) convinced me otherwise and the temps are down to what others got them to WITH that same aftermarket heatsink, so you saved me 30USD

BdAqua, anyone.. I need some SERIOUS advise here..

For many of you I have been on these forums for quite sometime and now I am in need of SERIOUS advice. With the acquisition of a Power Mac G5 Quad taking over most of my everyday activities which I do on my mac pro, I am in desperate need of trying to figure out how I can get the best out of my 2009 mac pro of which I worked so hard in making it a 6-core 2010 machine.. Now I am thinking I might have gone overboard, way overboard as I am not making use of the machine and its fullest potential. I don't have really a lot of income coming in right now as I am unemployed, though I am getting a pension and unemployment, but not enough to buy serious applications for taking advantage of the power in my mac pro.
Can someone advise on how I can get the best out of my 6-core mac pro without having to spend 1000's of dollars on stuff I may or may never ever need? Other than video editing, is there any other way I can get the best out of using my machine for what its intended for? Here is what I currently use my mac pro for, thus far:
1. Everyday stuff, browsing internet, forums, emailing.
2. sometimes I will burn two dvds/cd's simultaneously, sometimes not.
3. Retro gaming though I do have some older modern games I play from time to time.
4. I had bootcamp installed, but no more as I can do most of the work I need on the OS X platform.
5. When I ever get dvds, I rip them using handbrake just to take advantage of all my cores, even though mactheripper is much faster and only uses some of the cores.
As of right now most of the above I do on my newly acquired Power Mac G5 Quad and my mac pro is on the floor, disconnected and not being used. The problem is that I got the mac pro because of its expandability and I realize my BIGGEST MISTAKE here was that it is in no way a consumer type machine, but for many years I have used desktop macs for my purposes and expansion.
This is my only intel mac, as my PB G4 is being used for my mobile computing and does everything I throw at it, Power Mac G5 does also what I through at it. The G4 Pismo is only used for OS 9 nostalgia to if I ever have a yearn to retro back to the beginning days of OS 9
Question: With my limited amount of funds, what can I do to get the best out of my Mac Pro?? I don't want to sell it for something cheaper or less, as I really do love the expansion capability of the mac pro and its case for prolonging the system. I don't plan on getting a future mac pro as for what I use it for it certainly would be a waste.
I know I have been rude to some of you and I know its been a rocky road between all of you on this forum and me, but I am now in a desperate, precarious position.. What really can I use my mac pro for other than using it like my PM G5 Quad? I am starting to also think the Quad is overkill, but nevertheless, I have a love for both Intel and PowerPC. And yes, I plan on getting Lion as I do want my mac pro to keep up with at least software and updates to the OS.
Thank you!
Romko

LOL, I think the G5s are already obsolete & a Legacy Mac as far as Apple is concerned, yet MHz per MHz they can still compete favorably with the right SW.
>Ok, can the G5 Quad still do good with elementary audio and video software?
Yes.
>What do you think? The mac pro makes a good server?
Oh yes.
>I do plan on getting Lion when it comes out for my mac pro however.
I wish I could comment on Lion, but NDA, NDA, NDA.
>Also, is it true I won't be able to charge an ipod touch with the G5's USB ports?
No iPods here, but Macs have traditionally been weak in USB amperage, I'd think if all else fails an AC powered USB hub would vertainly cure it.
>Define obsolete?
No longer supported by Apple... so what's new?
Right now Leo/10.5.x is still fairly well supported, but when a new OS hits I expect that to stop.
BTW, we're not llowed to speculate here, so call that a blind guess!

Checked FAQ: Question about importing into library, need some assistance.

Hi,
I've done some searching and have yet find my answer. I hope that some of the sharpshooters here can help out.
I keep all of my music on a network drive to avoid "bloating" my Mac with music. So the other day, I wanted to use iTunes to catalog what was on there and to load some more music onto my 'Pod. So, I performed an import of the library. Here's my dopey question: When one imports into a library, does all of the music come over with it, or, does just the songs' data get imported and then point to the source drive? Does this make sense?
TIA,
Chris

I also keep my music and all on an external drive. Before you catalog it you need to do one important thing or it will copy everything to your computer. Go into the Advanced setting under Preferences and uncheck *Copy music to your iTunes Music folder when adding to library*. If you don't do this you will end up with your music trying to be put on your computers drive. You can then use this to update your iPod as it points to the original file and will bring anything needed to load on your iPod.

Switching from Comcast - Need some Assistance

I have been a Comcast subscriber for many years now, but have heard that FiOS is supposed to be better. However, there are a few things that make me somewhat ambivalent about switching. First off, I've had Comcast for years, and have had a few issues with them, but not THAT many. So I don't know if it'd be worth it to change, since a new provider might not be as good. But also, I noticed that carriage of local channels is different on FiOS than it would be on cable, since I would assume it would be the same throughout the entire market. For instance, in the Boston area, some communities near the Rhode Island border receive Providence channels as well as Boston on cable, but not on FiOS. I've also heard that FiOS' On Demand selections are rather different. I know there's tons of movies on demand, but what about TV shows, and local events? I also saw a post here from someone who doesn't get local weather on their system. So I've heard that in a way, FiOS is more like satellite than it is like cable.
Anyway, I'm sure that many of you here who now have FiOS TV have switched from cable, and let me ask you this: Have any of you ever considered switching back? Why, or why not?

fair question.
I switched from comcast to verizon at the end of last year.
my sole reason for switching was due to savings of $40/month. To me, the quality, speed, and service appears to be the same (or hardly noticeable to make a significant difference).
the main advantage for switching to FIOS is money. Some small advantages FIOS has over Comcast is some of their local networks on-demand content. I believe that Comcast only provides CBS while Verizon offers ABC, NBC, and CBS (neither carry Fox on-demand).
the main disadvantage to me is that you do NOT need a set-top box to get all of the channels with comcast. a simple splitter will suffice. for FIOS, you need to rent the box for each tv or else you will not get a picture. another disadvantage is that the free movies on Comcast are far more vast and far better than Verizon. However, Verizon is aware of this and are slowly adding more content throughout this year.
As for customer serivce, it's hit or miss with both. You'll read many horror stories and happy stories from both sides, so to me, that's almost a risk or expectation with any paid service.
that being said, FIOS has made considerable advancements in technology in their internet and cable service over the past few years while keeping the costs to the consumers down. comcast, on the other hand, has not made any significant technological advances (at least none that I know of, although they do claim to double your internet speed every year, but so does everyone else).
thus, even though I must rent a box for each of my 6 tvs, I'm still saving $40/month, but we'll see what happens when the 1-year promotion ends this december.
You've got to be very careful if you don't know where you're going, because you might not get there. --Yogi Berra

I Need some assistant and HELP with my iPod Touch soon

Note: Look up above at the Top to read my Problem that I am having with my iPod Touch.
Can Someone Please HELP ME with my iPod Touch, I am running out of patience, normally when I do need help here I usually get help and a reply within ONE day, but I have posted my problem YESTERDAY, why isn't there someone not replying to my request?? I am getting 55 views but no replys, isn't there anyone out there that can help me??
I need HELP to reset my IPod Touch to where I had it when I was able to send emails. (can't send emails anymore from my iPod Touch)
I want to be able to sync and send my iPod Touch sent emails info. to my Computer email program, does anyone know how to do that?
PLEASE HELP ME AND REPLY if you can solve my problem ASAP.
Trisha Foster

Agreed! If you want help soon, call Apples paid support line. Now while you were waiting for us to slowly get around to answering you, you could have downloaded the manual for the ipod, so that you understood the function of the mail sync options in itunes. Mail sync only copies the settings needed to access your mail servers, from the mail client on your computer, over to the ipod touch. It does not copy any actual mail messages, and does not copy any settings from the ipod back to your mail program. The advanced section is meant to be used if you have messed up the settings on the ipod itself. It will ignore any changes to bookmarks, contacts, or mail settings depending on which you check, and will copy new information to the ipod. So in your case if you are able to access, and send mail correctly from the account on your mac, then clicking on the sync mail account button in itunes as well as the replace info on this ipod whatever in the advanced section should transfer over the correct mail account settings to your ipod.

Need some assistance with multiple problems (8330 Curve)

Hello all,
I am recent buyer of an 8330 (Verizon). I like it a lot and find it a very useful tool. Being new to the BB world, I do have some questions, that I cannot find answered on any of the BB forums.
So here they are:
1. I have two e-mail accounts setup on my BB. So this means that I should have only two e-mail options under applications. I have three and the third one seems to get messages from both of my two other accounts. What is also weird is that there is no e-mail header on the top (like with the other two e-mail folders). How do I get e-mails to stop going in to this folder and basically delete it? The other strange thing (that I just noticed is that this generic e-mail box gets some e-mails that my other two accounts never see (even though they have their correct e-mail address on them)!
2. How do I create sig lines for my e-mail accounts? I have read the help pages, but the instructions they give me for creating signatures on my outgoing e-mails does not work.
3. Does the new 4.5 SW upgrade allow me to use the GPS capability with my phone? I bought the download Garmin SW for my phone ONLY to find out later that Verizon has blocked this feature! It should would be nice if either VZ or Garmin would have made that crystal clear when I got my phone. :-(
Thanks much for all the assistance!
Grant

1. That is the "Messages" folder. It is a dumping ground for ALL messages including all emails, sms, mms, pin, BBMessenger (if selected) and any others like Browser messages, etc. You can't stop messages from going there but you can hid the icon, if you like.
2. To create signatures for email you have to use the BIS logon from your PC. Use the link below to do this:
https://bis.na.blackberry.com/html?brand=vzw
3. Upgrading the OS does not allow you to use the GPS with other software like Garmin. This is a Verizon lock and there is no way around it. They want you to pay for their service.
1. Please thank those who help you by clicking the "Like" button at the bottom of the post that helped you.
2. If your issue has been solved, please resolve it by marking the post "Solution?" which solved it for you!

HT201441 Hi, me need some assistance with unlock

Can I contact with somebody , who can assist me with my telephone.
I new owner telefon, but previous owner didnt tell ID and password.
And now I cant turn on telefone. Telephone is not stolen , and I can give you all information.
You see this Phone was not stolen. Name previous owner is Cedric Arndt, hi is from Germany, City is Oberhasen. From this date when I buy item I can contact with owner.I dont know what happened with HIm.
On box all numbers
MD235D/A Iphone 4s, Black, 16GB
Apple in California
ModelA1387
Part No: MD235D/A
Serial No:D*****************0
IMEI/MEID 0****************3
Number under cover box: 602-7519-A
Number on battery:Model A1387 EMC2430 FCC ID:BCG-E2430A IC:579C-E2430A
I cant recover Cedric ID number, because I know only half.
My accaunt in apple store is opened. Now you know all information which I have on this moment, because if I not unlock this phone me need contact with ebay and send this phone back soon as possible.
Kind regard
Aleksandrs
<Personal Information Edited by Host>

You should not post your email address and all this information on the phone - it's and invitation to spam and a security risk. I've asked the Hosts to remove them.
Only the previous owner can unlock your phone. Apple cannot help you (and you are not talking to Apple here, this is a user-to-user forum). You need to contact him and get him to remove the phone from his list of devices, and get him to unlock it. Without this you cannot use the phone.

New to Flash CS5. Need some assistance.

Hey,
I want to learn flash cs5 and before that I had some queries:
Some of my friends who are java programmers told me I need to know programming in order to learn flash. (Action scripting) I honestly don`t know any programming, so is it possible for me to learn flash? I will be using flash to make simple animation, like moving a car, smoke, clouds etc.
So I am good with photoshop/after effects and have a good design skills.
Any assistance would be appreciated.

Thanks for the reply.
So as I told I have zero knowledge of programming, still I will be able to do animations in flash? Also as I told I am good with maya/photoshop/after effects.
So if programming is not needed to learn flash, what are the advantages of using flash if we already know actionscript?

PC upgrade...... Been a while....... Need some assistance.

Hello,
It's been a while since I upgraded my PC and am a bit behind on things.
Here's what I installed:
OS: XP Professional
CPU: Phenom 9600 2.3Ghz AM2+ x4 L2+L3=4Mb, 95W, 65nm
MB: MSI K9N2 SLI Patinum nForce 750a, BIOS=V3.5 current
RAM: 4GB Patriot Viper EPP PC-6400 800Mhz (4,4,4,12)
Video: 2x GeForce 6600GT 512MB PCI-E
PS: New 550W
Everything on "Auto" in BIOS.
The good news is that I'm using it now. The problem is games, it seems to be slower than the old configuration?
I have to turn everything down to minumum or to off to prevent lag. Real disapointed having invested time and $$$ to upgrade.
There must be something not set right. The old configureation was a AMD dual core with one video card and 2MB of memory. I swiched from SLI mode to one graphics card and it seamed to be the same? I mean.................... damn........... what gives? Where's the bottle neck, Anyone with any ideas????????
Also - What is SVM and it's purpose, can't find it with search.
I can't adjust voltage in BIOS. I can highlight but can't change?
Gary

Quote from: Gster on 06-October-09, 08:59:27
The GTX260 I have requires min of 500W with 38A on a 12V rail. It has (2) 12V rail connections.
That's 550watts 38A suggested system wide, as Mike said, containing a card of that design, but nonetheless you done good. Who knows what you'll want to add to your system in the future and what type of demands they'll place on your PS. That supply will do it.
Quote from: Gster on 06-October-09, 08:59:27
I'm wondering with all the heat being generated now I might need to get better cooling for the PC, CPU (stock fan from box)
What are temps? Idle and full load for cpu, gpu, and chipset? Use some type of burn in test to load system to report full load temps. Folding@Home works very well to stress test and it furthers medical research to boot.(Consider joining MSI HQ's team) Monitor temps voltages, timings, and temps with Everest or the like. Other programs of interest are HW monitor, CPUZ, Core Temp. Check out the stickies in the overclocking forum for links to these and other programs that might interest you. You sir, are about to have a whole lot of fun.

Need some assistance in Verizon iPhone 4S unlock

I've recently moved overseas from the US. Prior to leaving I requested an international unlock from Verizon. I have been a customer in good standing for the past 10 years and have an iPhone 4S on iOS 7.0.4. They assured me the phone was unlocked and all I need to do is insert an international SIM card and I should be good to go. I purchased a prepaid sim from 3 mobile in Ireland, restored the phone thru iTunes and received a sim invalid error, stating the phone was most likely not unlocked. I contacted Verizon who once again assured me the phone was unlocked and it must be a faulty SIM card. I contacted 3, they told me it could take 24 hours to activate the sim. After 24 hours and the same error message I was told by 3 to return the sim and get a replacement, that the sim may be faulty. The agent at the phone store tried a different sim from vodaphone and received the same message. Now I am phone-less and verizon is telling me there is nothing that can be done. They mentioned if I was in the states that I could bring the phone in and they would put it through a machine to unlock it? Is that even true? My options are to buy a new phone for hundreds of dollars or wait till I return to the states on vacation. Does anyone have any advice or can offer some guidance as to what I can do next. I would like to continue using my current phone. I've heard of people having issues which is why I was so proactive about contacting verizon prior to my trip. I have tried restoring the phone numerous times, it now is acting somewhat glitchy. I was told the phone could be jail broken but not with the iOS it is on and I don't want to pay for something yet that I don't know will even work or can be done. Any information is greatly appreciated. It's getting more difficult to function without the ability to make phone calls.

No one other than Verizon can do anything about this.
There is no "machine to unlock it". Unlocking is done by restoring the phone in iTunes.
Try restoring it again. If that doesn't do it, contact them again.
Jailbreaking can not be discussed here at all. It will void any warranty you have and forfeit all rights to support.

Hi, need some assistance over here.

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for