High Noise in 5D Mark III

Hey Everyone,
I'm getting a random issue with my 5D Mark III. I usually shoot in AV mode, RAW at ISO 100. I don't like to increase my ISO because I want to avoid high noise and plus I'm shooting in HDR. In dim lighting conditions when I have to lengthen the shutter speed and then view/process the dng images in Camera Raw, I get a mixed bag of results. Some images at 1/8 sec or 2 sec have the grainiest noise in the shadows, but then I'll have an image at 10 or 15 seconds and the image is smooth and sharp. I'm at my wit's end.
It also helps to know that I just bought a 16 - 35mm 2.8L lens and it's been working fine up until today when the autofocus went bust. Could it be a body issue or lens issue? I'm driving to Canon repair on Monday morning to drop off both lens and body. Any help or insight will help.

No problem. I'm curious too. I dig a little deeper into your Exif data and look at your processing values:
Tint = "+2"
Exposure = "+3.40"
Shadows = "0"
Brightness = "+71"
Contrast = "+19"
Saturation = "0"
Sharpness = "25"
LuminanceSmoothing = "0"
ColorNoiseReduction = "25"
ChromaticAberrationR = "0"
The exposure was pushed by 3.5 stop, and the brightness +71. That's a huge value. Yet Noise Reduction is set at ZERO. Thus, the result should have a lot of noise and banding noise as seen in your photo. I don't think there is something wrong with your camera. You may have development PRESET turn on by default.
Weekend Travelers Blog | Eastern Sierra Fall Color Guide

Similar Messages

5D Mark III RAW Files with LR 4.1RC - Cross Pattern Noise

While processing a images from this past weekend taken with the 5D Mark III... Images taken at high ISO (6400 and 12,800) with no noise reduction show a very clear criss-cross pattern across the image faintly. Once you apply about 20 on the NR slider, it will go away. I do not see this with the in-camera JPEG's or with Canon's DPP software with no NR applied to the RAW files. Is this a known issue that will be corrected for the final release of 4.1?
Here is a crop showing this happening. It is not limited to just dark or light parts of the image, but the entire thing.
[IMG]http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh280/invertalon/6M3C3258.jpg[/IMG]

I believe with previous problems people reported them here:
http://feedback.photoshop.com/photoshop_family
However, if you don't want to deal with that you could always PM Eric Chan. This is people page here:
http://forums.adobe.com/people/MadManChan2000
Just click on the "Send Private Message" link under "Actions" on the right and point him at this thread. He can probably pretty quickly tell you if your RAW file will help them out or not.

5D Mark III firmware suggestions

Hello,
Could Canon team give us their positions on these suggestions please ?
1) The Auto ISO is far from being convenient.
- Could we specify the min shutter speed instead of being limited to a restricted number of predefined values ?
- When shutter speed is set to "auto", could we set a priority as regards the one-over-the-focal-length rule thanks to a slider ? This is exactly what is so WELL done for some autofocus settings, so why not extend it to the "auto" value ?
2) When we switch the lens to manual focus, could you make the focus grid and red blinking vanish ?
3) Could you display the focal length on the rear LCD when reviewing a picture ? Presently, only aperture/speed/ISO are displayed when you click on "Info".
4) This last one might sound like a gadget... Would it possible when pressing the M-Fn button (or other) to set the focus to the hyperfocal ? Nowadays, there are no more indications for this on the lens barrel. And it is so useful for street photography and landscape. The camera knows the focal length and the current aperture. There are tables that give the relation between aperture, focal length and hyperfocal (as simple as a rule of thumb). So this should work, no ?
Maybe I am alone here to think that this would be welcome additions (#1 top priority) and will never be heard by Canon's dev team... But I would really appreciate having their answers written down here. Thanks for your consideration on this matter.
Cheers,
Yoms

We agree with all of these suggestions.
And we will also add the following suggestion than CAN be implemented via Firmware Update.
PLEASE CANON consider these requests, and forward them to the right department:
1- Could we enable AF points blinking in red even when the sccene is light?
Currently they only blink red when the scene is dark, even if you set the View Finder to always be illuminated.
This is VERY useful because in lot of situations the black overlay AF points is not very easy to see in light scenes.
2- If possible: also make them more visible (blinking red) in AI Servo, because they're currently hard to follow in lot of situations.
3- Could we assign different functions to the RATE button? It's currently almost a waste of button for only a couple of functions.
4- Please implement a "Hot / Sutck Pixels" REMAPPING function to let the user tell the camera to hide these deffective pixels in stills and video mode.
This is ESSENTIAL in digital cameras (every sensor has deffective pixels, most of them "mapped" in factory to be hidden, but not all). Digital sensors may even show more hot/stuck pixels over time. It could work in similar way than the "Dust delete data"
5- We expect an Option for CLEAN 4:2:2 HDMI output as promised by Canon, besides the current Full HD HDMI output option with shooting information, which is essential for using external monitors.
6- PLEASE, could Canon implement PEAKING in Video mode? The 5D Mark III is a $3,000+ camera.
There are currently cameras by other manufacturers with Peaking, 1080p60 for less than $1,000...
The 5D Mark III had strong advertised aimed towards the video market, yet it doesn't have this basic feature for filmmaking & video.
7- Please, could Canon improve the ALL-I mode?
It delivers poor quality (considering the BIG memory space required) when there are low motion scenes, showing more macro blocking than IPB and a noticeable "fizzy" noise, even at Low ISO.
8- Please, improve the Sharpness algorithm in Video mode, to get SHARPER images when setting it higher than zero.
Currently it produces noticeable halos, making it almost unusable for professional work.
The list could be longer, but all these improvements are VERY important and CAN be made via firmare update and would make the 5D Mark III more competitive and a higher value.
Thank you very much Canon!
We really hope you listent to your customers.
HD Cam Team
Group of photographers and filmmakers using Canon cameras for serious purposes.
www.hdcamteam.com | www.twitter.com/HDCamTeam | www.facebook.com/HDCamTeam

5d Mark III - Metering Underexposed

So first off, I apologize as I think I've seen a similar thread here but I can't find it anymore!
I purchased a 5d Mark III as an upgrade from my 7d a couple of weeks ago and, although I am happy, there is one main issue that is bothering me.
When I meter a "perfect" exposure, the camera is delivering about a full stop UNDER that.
My normal settings are;
Shoot in M
Center focus point
Spot metering
AI Servo.
I generally shoot 2/3 over anyway, and find that I'm needing to now shoot at least 1 2/3 over to get the same result as my 7d. In addition to that, I'm getting a noticeable vignette in lower (but even/consistent) light situations.
I have tried all the different metering options, including variations on the focus points. I have done a full factory reset and the issue is consistent across all my lenses.
Any ideas?

rjs1981 wrote:
Thanks for the response!
I just did some additional test shots to answer your question more accurately.
I shot a grey card under tungsten light at ISO 4000, 2.8, with a 50mm 1.4. I shot the same image with both cameras set up exactly the same, and the 5dm3 is, in that shot, roughly 2/3rds underexposed.
I'm really baffled.
ps. I notice you use the 60Da. Never spoken to an owner. Do you love it? I am starting to really enjoy astrophotography so that unit is interesting to me. Its pretty much geared towards that one purpose yes?
You don't, by chance, happen to own an incident light meter to determine which camera is actually telling the truth do you?
As you are shooting in "M" according to your post, the exposure compensation is ignored (it's used to P, Tv, or Av modes... but not M). It's the only setting I can think of that would cause the camera to createa a different exposure.
So barring that, it seems one of your cameras is having a problem. I once had someone tell me that their Canon 5D II and Canon 5D III were giving different exposures... but I own two Sekonic incident light meters and three Canon bodies.... so I tested the light with both Sekonic incident meters, then tested my bodies pointed at the same gray card and all agreed on the exposure.
But it sounds like you've done some reasonable testing to make sure the exposures *should* be the same... and yet they aren't. It seems reasonable that it points to a problem with one of the cameras. I can tell you that my own 5D III body (and I also own a 5D II body) are metering accurately so I don't think there's a 5D III metering problem per se, but you may have a individual body with an issue.
As for the 60Da... I'm quite pleased with this camera. So here's the story.
I belong to a fairly large astronomy club in the area. I'm going to guess there are about 160 members. Of those... probably about 20% are fairly seriosu imagers. A few owned the old Canon 20Da (the first astro camera Canon sold). Many members own modified and unmodified Rebel bodies as well. But when Canon released the 60Da, several members took notice and bought one.
So one day I'm at a friend's house and the previous night another club member was at his private observatory with his 60Da and took a photo of the whirlpool galaxy (M51). I was looking at the EXIF data for the exposure. At the time I did not own a 60Da... but I did have the 5D II (I did not yet have the 5D III). I took the _same_ exposure (ISO & shutter time) with my camera using the identical scope in the same observatory for the same object.
At the end of my exposure, I got almost nothing.
I doubled the exposure.
I could see a hint of the galaxy... but mostly nothing.
I tripled the exposure.
Now I was starting to see the hints of the galaxy... but nowhere even remotely close to what the 60Da had captured. (and I'm using a 5D II which blows the doors off the 60D when it comes to ISO performance.)
The following day I ordered a 60Da.
Human eyes are a bit wonky... we are "most" sensitive to greens because they are pretty much smack in the middle of the visible spectrum (which runs from 400nm to 700nm wavelengths). We are less sensitive to blues and reds. Traditional cameras compensate for this in several ways... rather than "truthfully" collecting light, the Bayer mask is already stacked to double the green reception vs. the blue or red. But even the filters inside the camera have a slow ramp up to block the IR. The "IR" filter actually starts to block the spectrum gently even as low as around 500-550nm. It ramps up gradually as it approaches 700nm.
90% of the universe is composed of hydrogen atoms. Atoms give off light at very specific wavelengths as their electrons jump from one shell to anotther. For hydrogen, it's the Ballmer series where the dominant light is at 656.28nm (Hydrogen alpha wavelength), then hydrogen beta, gamma and delta... but those are cyan, and a few shades of violet and safely sharter wavelengths then what a terrerestrial camera IR filter blocks. It's mostly the Ha which is a problem.
The 60Da is at least 3x more sensitive to Ha (and possibly closer to 5x more sensitive) as compared to a non-modified terrestrial DSLR cameras. The result is that not only do you get more reds (the Ha is a fire-engine red color), but overall you get much shorter exposure times to capture the same image.
There are several companies which make high end dedicated astro-imaging CCD cameras... SBIG (Santa Barbara Imaging Group), Finger Lakes, Apogee, etc. These are typically monochrome cameras with peltier cooling systems that can chill the CCD considerable colder than ambient temps (becaue there's a relationship between physical temps and noise), have incredible well-depth (basically a measure of dynamic range), and fitler wheels. Since a monochrome camera does not have a bayer mask, the cameras are much more sensitive to light -- but they can't see "color". To compensate, a filter wheel rotates in a "red" filter, "blue" filter, "green" filter, and usually a "luminance" filter. They may also use special narrowband filters to pick up Ha, Hb, O III, etc. They take numerous images in each part of the spectrum and them merge them to create color image. These cameras tend to be expensive. I sure would love to own an SBIG STX-16803 and filter wheel but it's the better part of $12,000!
The 60Da has been working quite nicely so far - a good workhorse and I've put it to use numerous times capturing images for hours on end.
Here's an image taken by my 60Da. This is based on 16 combined "light" images of 4 minutes each of the Dumbbell nebula (Messier 27). I also took 8 "darks". What I did _not_ take were any "flats" or "bias" images and it shows. You can see the obvious vignetting caused by the telescope ("flat" images would have allowed my software to compensate for this.) The red colors you see in this image are Hydrogen atoms giving off light in Hydrogen alpha wavelength. Without a modified camera, you get red... but not nearly as much.
BTW... in fairness I should mention that I'm getting pretty good at image "acquisition" in astrophotography... but I have a lot of learning to do when it comes to image "processing" for astrophotography. Most of my club members blow me away (even using the same camera that I use) but I am learning quickly.
Tim Campbell
5D II, 5D III, 60Da

5D mark III lens correction problem with dark shots

Just found a new irritating problem with 5D mark III and Lightroom 4 (currently on 4.2). I shot quite a few shots in the dark over the weekend using high ISO (6400-16000), with EF 24-70 f/2.8L. If I enable the lens profile correction on the dark shots, the corners of the images all develop incredibly strong purple haze that renders the image unusable. Not enabling the correction allows me to use the images just fine. Also images that were shot with similar settings but were shot inside, with more light, don't have the purple fringing issue. Makes me wonder if this is some incompatibility between Canon's high iso noise reduction system and Lightroom's RAW processing when it does lens corrections.
Anyone else seen this?

Sulka Haro wrote:
Replicated the shot under a heavy blanket -> yes, the exposure looks the same. Whatever is causing the corner to be noisier than rest of the exposure doesn't seem to be caused by light.
At that very high of ISO you are actually seeing small differences in the sensor chip temperature due to heat from the electronics in the camera. The small amount of increased noise you're seeing in the corner at ISO 25600 is insignificant.
Sulka Haro wrote:
Interestingly enabling long exposure compensation doesn't seem to do very much to really improve the shots at these sensitivities. When enabled, the exaggerated corner noise does disappear, but also it looks like some areas in the middle of the exposure become more noisy with non-uniform noise blotches appearing instead of fairly uniform slightly higher noise pattern.
I haven't needed to use Long Exposure Noise Reduction with my 5D MKII, so have no firsthand experience. My guess is that at very high ISO settings (above 6400) a lot of what your are seeing is random noise or "shot noise," which changes from frame to frame. This causes the dark frame subtraction to "fail" in the way you are seeing. Just a guess.
There is an excellent 5D MKIII review that compares noise reduction with several other high-end camera models. The reviewer also states,
"The 5D Mark III's ISO 51200 and 102400 remain a complete mess even with strong noise reduction applied - You have to be desperate to use these settings. ISO 12800 and 25600 remain very marginal for my uses. I always shoot in the lowest standard ISO setting that will allow me to get my desired shot, but begin to cringe when settings above ISO 3200 must be employed. Your standards and applications may be different."

Canon 5D Mark III - underexposes

Hello,
I've noticed that my Canon 5D Mark III underexposes somewhere between 2/3 stops and one stop.
I've taken a test photo and I've attached the histogram and the exif. I photographed a white sheet of paper
Is this behaviour normal or is there a problem in the camera's metering system?
Thanks,
Catalin
Histogram
Test photo
I have also attached the full exif:
[Image]
Make = Canon
Model = Canon EOS 5D Mark III
Orientation = top/left
X Resolution = 72
Y Resolution = 72
Resolution Unit = inch
Date Time = 2014-01-20 21:16:29
Artist = Catalin Fuioaga
YCbCr Positioning = co-sited
Copyright = Catalin Fuioaga
Exif IFD Pointer = Offset: 360
GPS Info IFD Pointer = Offset: 9554
[Camera]
Exposure Time = 1/200"
F Number = F5.6
Exposure Program = Normal program
ISO Speed Ratings = 2000
8830 = 2
8832 = 2000
Exif Version = 30, 32, 33, 30
Date Time Original = 2014-01-20 21:16:29
Date Time Digitized = 2014-01-20 21:16:29
Components Configuration = YCbcr
Shutter Speed Value = 7.63 TV
Aperture Value = 5 AV
Exposure Bias Value = ±0EV
Metering Mode = Partial
Flash = Flash did not fire, compulsory flash mode
Focal Length = 105mm
Maker Note = 8152 Byte
User Comment =
Subsec Time =
Subsec Time Original =
Subsec Time Digitized =
Flashpix Version = Version 1.0
Color Space = sRGB
Exif Image Width = 2880
Exif Image Height = 1920
Interoperability IFD Pointer = Offset: 9326
Focal Plane X Resolution = 1971.253
Focal Plane Y Resolution = 1975.309
Focal Plane Resolution Unit = inch
Custom Rendered = Normal process
Exposure Mode = Auto exposure
White Balance = Manual white balance
Scene Capture Type = Normal
A430 =
A431 = 073024017512
A432 = 24/1, 105/1, 0/1, 0/1
A434 = EF24-105mm f/4L IS USM
A435 = 00001bcf3a
[GPS]
GPS Version ID = 2, 3, 0, 0
[Interoperability]
Interoperability Index = ExifR98
Interoperability Version = Version 1.0
[Thumbnail Info]
Compression = JPEG Compressed (Thumbnail)
X Resolution = 72
Y Resolution = 72
Resolution Unit = inch
JPEG Interchange Format = Offset: 11444
JPEG Interchange Format Length = Length: 3320
[Thumbnail]
Thumbnail = 160 x 120

"....Exposure Bias Value = ±0EV
Metering Mode = Partial
Flash = Flash did not fire, compulsory flash mode
Focal Length = 105mm..."
You are in partial metering mode, which is fine if you are shooting a plain white piece of paper. However most of the time I'd recommend either Evaluative instead, or if you are more accustomed to it, Center Weighted. Or use Spot Metering in some cases. Partial is sort of like a "Large Spot Metering" mode.
Evaluative has the advantage of putting extra emphasis on the area right around the active AF point, i.e. presumably around your subject. The rest of the image area is considered, too, but more weight is given to the active AF point. Center Weighted metering doesn't do this (it's sort of an "old fashioned" method of metering, but some people are accustomed to it from using older cameras.)
Do a Google search on Expose To The Right (ETTR), which is a common technique used by Canon shooters. Like hsbn mentioned above, I think Canon is a bit conservative about their metering, erring a little toward underexposure to "protect the highlights". This was a good practice back in the days of slide film, but is just the opposite of what you want to do with digital. To minimize noise in images, it's better to slightly overexpose and pull the exposure back down a little in post processing. Not a lot... just +1/3 to +2/3 stop. Here is a link to one of the better descriptions of ETTR I've seen. There are other tutorials and discussions about it other places online, so do a search if you wish.
Oh, and there was an exposure issue with the 5D III early on. The problem was a light leak near the top LCD, that would cause underexposure from additional light reaching the metering array in the viewfinder. Canon did a recall made some changes to fix the problem. Yours would have to be a very early production camera that was never fixed under the recall, to have this problem. The problem would vary, depending upon how strong light was striking the top of the camera whle shooting. Outside on a bright sunny day would cause more error than shooting indoors in low light.
Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif., USA
"Walk softly and carry a big lens."
GEAR: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
FLICKR & PRINTROOM

I tested my new Canon 5D Mark iii with my 85 1.2 L lens. The images look terrible! What gives?

I just purchased a new Canon 5D Mark iii body. It is replacing my 1Ds Mark ii. I tested it with my 85 1.2 L series lens. I took the RAW images into Capture One 7 to look at them. I was highly disturbed at what I saw. The quality was no where near my Canon 1Ds Mark ii. The images seemed somewhat soft even after applying a consderable amount of sharpening. They also looked flat and lifeless, even after pumping the contrast and adding Clarity. All in all they looked terrible! I must have something wrong, as I have read countless times that the new chip gives incredible results.
When first attempting to set up my camera I set it to Adobe RGB and for RAW images only. I noticed that you seemed forced into deciding on a specific "Picture Style". I left it on the default settting of "Standard". Should that effect my RAW files, or is that bypassed altogether when shooting RAW? I noticed that in "Standard" mode that some in camera sharpening was applied to the files. Is that my problem? Should that be turned down to zero, as I would normally do all my sharpening afterward either in Capture One 7 or other software. I shot all my test images with fast shutter speeds so that is not the issue. This lens is in perfect condition and has always produced incredibly sharp contrasty images. What on earth could be wrong? Any suggestions? I am a professional shooter for the last 20 years, so this is really perplexing me! Help!!!

Hi Corey,
Picture styles are ONLY applied to JPEG images or video. They are never applied to RAW. Canon will "tag" the meta-data of the image indicating picture style choices so that desktop processing software that understands those choices can apply it after-the-fact. But the point of "RAW" is that the camera will not perform any change to the image which would result in a loss of original data.
As for the soft focus... the good news there is probably nothing wrong with your camera or your lens. It probably just needs a slight focus calibration adjustment (you don't even need to send it in for this.)
The camera sensor is analogous to a movie screen. If the image is blurry... it's not the movie screen... it's the movie projector (or the focus). However... keeping with that analogy... suppose we focused the image perfectly... but then moved the project a foot closer to the screen. The result would be a slightly out-of-focus image even though there is actually nothing wrong with the projector.
The phase detect focus sensors are on the floor of your camera. When the reflex mirror is down, some light is bounced down into those sensors to focus the image. The distance to the AF sensors vs. the distance to the real sensor is supposed to be calibrated to match... but it's actually possible for the AF sensors to think the image is focused when it's really slightly out of focus on the sensor. For this reason, your camera has auto-focus micro-adjustment capability -- in other words this is something you can test and tune yourself. The REASON you might do it yourself is because it turns out it can be different for every lens (even two EF 85mm f/1.2L lenses in a row might have slightly different focus). This adjustment is only available on the mid-range and pro bodies -- it's part of the reason you buy a premium body. The camera can actually remember the AF adjustment for each lens uniquely.
See this article: http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2008/12/this-lens-is-soft-and-other-myths
Or this article: http://www.luminous-landscape.com/essays/are_your_pictures_out_of_focus.shtml
BTW, to test the lens, I'd suggest getting a focus calibration target. You want controlled conditions when you do this -- don't shoot typical everday subjects because it wont be precise enough.
I use a DataColor Spyder "LensCal". The LensAlign products are also popular.
Tim Campbell
5D II, 5D III, 60Da

5D Mark III Not Recognising CF Card in Slot 1.

I recently inserted a CF card into slot 1, but the camera cannot see it or format it.
I've tried two known, good, error free CF cards, but the camera just tells me they cannot be accessed and to change them or format them in camera.
I've checked for bent pins in the slot, but they seem ok from what I can see. I contacted Canon Support who told me to revert all camera settings to factory default, which I did, but it failed to solve the issue. Failing that they advised to have the camera checked at a Canon Service Centre. The problem is I'm currently living and working in a country that doesn't have a service centre. I can't afford the downtime involved in sending it to another country to be repaired, so I wondered if any other Mark III users had come across a similar issue and solved it without the need of a service centre?
The SD cards still work, so all is not lost, but I'd like the option to use the CF cards, particularly for high speed shooting, which they seem to handle better than SD cards.
Any tips, suggestions, ideas welcomed.
Mant Thanks
Phil

Hi Cale_Kat,
I've used a flashlight and magnifying glass, and as far as I can see the pins look ok.
I spoke to a local professional photographer who gave the address of a place that turned out to be a Canon approved repair centre here. I've just back from there. They said 3-4 days to investigate and hopefully repair.
My dissatisfaction with Canon tech support is not the lack of service centres. I fully appreciate they can't have one in every country. My complaint is the lack of knowledge of my problem. I got more potential fix ideas just surfing the net than I did from Canon. As I'm not the only person to have had this problem, the least I would have expected from the manufacturer is a list of things to try, or even a blunt but simple 'your camera needs to be returned for repair'.
I've never had a problem with any Canon product I've owned in the past, which is testimony to the quality of the products they produce, and I'm sure they do offer a prompt service when you're fortunate enough to be somewhere where they have a service centre, but as I travel extensively, quite often my only line of enquiry for any tech related problem is a tech support line. In this case I just don't think Canon offered anything close to an effective level of support.
Anyway, I will see what the approved repair centre says when they've had chance to check it out.
Thanks for your reply cale_kat. This forum is a very good source for Canon users and I appreciate your input. If I get to find out what the issue is with my camera I will be sure to post a reply for the benefit of any other users.
Thanks
Phil

F/s Canon EOS 5D Mark III Digital SLR Camera + 24 - 105 mm Lens Kit set

F/s Canon EOS 5D Mark III Digital SLR Camera + 24 - 105 mm Lens Kit set
Package Content
     1 Canon EOS 5D Mark III DSLR Camera+ 24 - 105 mm Lens Kit set
    1 LP-E6 Battery Pack
    1 LC-E6 Battery Charger
    1 IFC-200U Data Cable (USB)
    1 AVC-DC400ST AV Cable
    1 Wide Neck EW-EOS 5D Mark III Strap
    1 EOS Digital Solution Disc
    1 User's Guide
    1 Eyecup Eg
E-mail: [email protected]

Hi WC!
Thanks for posting on the forum.
It is very likely that the issue is with the cards you have tried and not the camera.
You mentioned that you were going to try a faster card.
Were you able to do so yet?
If so, how did the faster card perform?
Do you experience the same issue when recording to a high-speed CF card instead of an SD card?
If this is a time sensitive-matter, additional support options are available at Contact Us.
Did this answer your question? Please click the Accept as Solution button so that others may find the answer as well.

Canon 5D Mark iii dropped frames

I have had dropped frame issues with my Canon 5D Mark iii on playback in the camera. I just bougth it so I sent it back and the second one was doing the same thing not as bad. I tried 4 different SD card all 32 gb 44 MB/s. For the third camera I will be getting I bought a 32 gb SD card and 95 MB/s to see if that makes a difference. I called Cannon to sk them what the problem could be and they said it could be the card or it could be the 24-105 mm lens IS and try shotting the video witht he IS off and then on. I was also told there is no way it could be the lens it's either the cameras or the card. I am getting really frustrated as to why this keeps happening. I am also shooting in 24 fps and 30 fps. The last camera was dropping frames and overheating and the joystick was difficult to use and only worked every so often. Has anyone else had any of these issues?

Hi WC!
Thanks for posting on the forum.
It is very likely that the issue is with the cards you have tried and not the camera.
You mentioned that you were going to try a faster card.
Were you able to do so yet?
If so, how did the faster card perform?
Do you experience the same issue when recording to a high-speed CF card instead of an SD card?
If this is a time sensitive-matter, additional support options are available at Contact Us.
Did this answer your question? Please click the Accept as Solution button so that others may find the answer as well.

Premiere hangs randomly when loading media from Canon 5D Mark III

Premiere 5.5.0 hangs when loading media. When I drag like 20 files from explorer to Premiere, it loads some files, but at a random point it stops loading and freezes. I loaded every file manually by using ctrl-I within Premiere and saving regularly. After loading a random number of files (anywhere between 1 and 7) it freezes. I managed to get all the files into the project. Now when I try to open the project, it freezes randomly while loading the media. I copied the project and when I open the new one, it opens normal and asks where the media is. When I locate it... same problem, anywhere during loading it might freeze. When I cancel it, I can manually link every media file back, with the random risk of freezing.
I reinstalled Quicktime without any improvement.
I reinstalled Premiere without improvement.
In old projects sometimes random media-files are not linked. Sometimes I can link them succefully. Sometimes it freezes when I try to link them.
As far as I can tell this only happens to .mov files and not other types of media-files.
Sometimes when I have been working on a project succesfully, Premiere still freezes when I close it.
UPDATE
I found out that this only concerned movies from my Canon 5d Mark III. I searched if other people had the same problem and found this thread: http://forums.creativecow.net/thread/3/923736
The solution is to rename the extensions from .mov into .mpg.
This solves the issue...

danielschweinert wrote:
Does somebody else has this problem?
Yup: I heard about it just today, in fact. An FCP user was trying to get Cinema Tools to conform 24fps footage from a Mk II and Mk III to 25. No problems with the Mk II footage, but no luck with the Mk III footage.
Now, it could be just coincidence. But if you don't believe in coincidence, you might think that there's something screwy with Canon's new codecs for the Mk III. "Screwy" is a highly technical term, by the way.

5D Mark iii AF system - necessary for hobbyist photographer?

I take pictures of just about everything, including running/playing children. My biggest complaint about my current camera (a high-end point-and-shoot. Definitely time to upgrade!) is that it doesn't focus well on moving subjects, nor does it focus well in low-light conditions (or do anything in low-light conditions, really). I would like to purchase the 6D, but if it's going to give me trouble every time I try to focus on moving people, then it's not worth 2000 dollars. The 5D Mark iii apparently has amazing AF but, honestly, it almost seems overwhelming to me. My choices are a crippled AF or a complicated AF, and I'm not sure what to do. As a hobbyist photographer who often shoots moving subjects, will the 6D be adequate? Or should I buy the 5D Mark iii and just plan on spending a good amount of time with the instruction manual?

Wow, thanks for your advice, everyone! And you're right; money doesn't buy skill so I shouldn't waste an extra thousand as an attempt to make up for my weaknesses.
My camera is essentially attached to my hip; I take it everywhere and shoot anything that interests me at the time. However, I can pinpoint two conditions in which I spend the most time shooting. I photograph a LOT of events, maybe half of which are indoors with varying lighting conditions. I also enjoy taking pictures at night in the city - people and stationary objects/settings. I currently use manual focus for night and low-light indoor conditions (which is frustratingly difficult when people are moving), and I use a tripod and long exposures for most of my night pictures (which is limiting). Even then, the pictures rarely turn out as sharp and vivid as I would like. The thought of a camera that can produce better quality images in the dark or low-light AND that can AUTO focus in said conditions sounds marvelous, and that's the reason I'm aiming for full frame. It sounds like some of the crop sensor cameras may be better than the 6D for all the events I photograph, given their AF capabilities, but I'm okay with sacrificing some AF (within reason) and some cash for quality night and low-light shots. Maybe I'm wrong in thinking that full frame is necessary for all this though? I just read reviews and saw sample images and was impressed with the pictures coming out of full frame cameras in low-light and night conditions. I don't have hands-on experience with crop sensor cameras though, so I may be underestimating them. Please correct me if I am wrong in any of my assumptions!
Anyway, given my desire for nice low-light/night performance and AF performance with moving subjects at events, the 5D Mark iii is tempting. However, from what I've read and from what you all have told me, it sounds like the 6D will be a good fit for me while the 5D Mark iii is probably excessive. You asked about my budget. I have saved up 6,000, which is a lot, but perhaps not so much when considering that I currently own no photo equipment other than my point-and-shoot and my flimsy tripod, haha.

5D Mark III Video Problem -- Help Needed!

Hello,
Been using my 5D Mark III for video for about a month now. I noticed a problem occurring in the middle of certain shots where the color seems to shift. The problem is so slight that it will take full screen, full HD and a high level of concentration to detect. I believe the most obvious occurence is at 28 seconds where the valley below suddenly takes on a different color. Here is a video of my issue: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xw9IHYkUEqQ
I run these settings:
Manual Focus
Aperture, ISO: Manually set
Shutter Speed: 1/50
1920x1080 ALL-I 24p
Picture Style: Faithful
Custom White Balance
Auto Lighting Optimizer: OFF
Highlight Tone Priority: OFF
High ISO Speed NR: OFF
I tried to see if these were detectible on the LCD screen on the camera, but to the naked eye they are not. The original .MOV files that were transferred from the camera show them.
Could it possibly be the Chromatic Aberration or Peripheral Illumination Correction? I have not disabled these, and they are the only automatic settings that I can think of that would be changing mid-shot.
I believe ISO was set to 100 for these shots.
Any ideas what might be causing this? Any suggestions would be much appreciated!
Thanks,
Max
Solved!
Go to Solution.

This looks completely normal. I don't see a problem.
Be aware that our atmosphere has diffractive properties just like a lens. When the sun is at or near the horizon it's going to bend light differently depending on the wavelength (i.e. color) of that light. Colors in the atmosphere and on the ground (since the only way it gets to the ground is to go through the atmosphere) will vary depending on where you point the camera and the position of the sun. As the sun rises it wont take such a angled path through the atmosphere and this effect is greatly diminished.
Tim Campbell
5D II, 5D III, 60Da

Canon 5D Mark iii stopped recording video!

I was shooting on my new Canon 5d Mark iii yesterday, recording to a 16SD card and using a RODE shotgun mic for sound when a weird image appeared on my live view. Towards the right of the screen these blocks started piling up. When there were 4 blocks, my video stopped recording! I'm talking maybe 10 or 15 second videos here. My SD was less than half full at the time, and when I hit record again I only got about 10 to 15 seconds more of video recording. What the heck was going on!? Please help!
I've drawn a picture of what the blocks lookied like to further illustrate my point. Thank you!

Hello ScottESwartz,
What you are seeing with this indicator is the amount of data being recorded to the buffer. Even though you are using a 16GB memory card, if it is a slow card, this indicator will fill quickly and stop. It makes it seem as though the card you're using doesn't have the speed to keep up with the recording level you have set. You could test this by selecting a smaller movie recording size and compression method within the Menu. For example, you may try 640 / 30 frames / IPB and see if this indicator either doesn't appear or fills more slowly. This tells you that the card isn't simply fast enough to handle large recordings with ease, hence the quick fill up.
Another method would be to use a much faster class of card, for shooting full HD video use the highest class of card you can afford. This would be Class 10 with a high write speed. This ensures that the buffer in the camera writes to the card quickly, allowing for longer record times.
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Noisy Exports when editing Native Canon Mark III DSLR

Hello,
I'm experiencing a lot of noise when exporting footage from Canon 5D Mark III IPB footage edited natively. With no effects applied, see how much noise is in the export on the right. original footage on the left. Also a tiny color shift, notice the wall on the right is a hair darker:
It's extremely bad when the image is playing (if I export a video Premiere adds so much noise to the original that I can't show the comparison. Perhaps I'll try to dig up some screen capture software).
There are no effects, I've tried a variety of output settings, always exporting maximum quality, maximum render depth, 20 Mbps, no scaling. I realize it is H264 footage but it should not degrade so much if I'm doing nothing to it.
Any feedback would be appreciated!
I'm working with a 2010 Mac Pro, Mountain Lion, Premiere CC 2014.
Thanks!
Gerry

300Mps is still noisy. Remember, I'm not doing anything to the clip. Color grading compounds the problem. Here's the original vs. 300 Mbps
Here's the original clip from the camera vs. h264 exported out of DaVinci Resolve. Resolve is much cleaner than Premiere:
There is a lot of banding apparent in the Premiere exported clip when it is playing.

High Noise in 5D Mark III

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