High voltage on Low Vdroop Setting P67A-GD65 + 2600k

Dear members of the MSI-HQ user forum,
My attempts on overclocking my 2600k processor has been stalled for quite some time now.
I've been at 4.3GHz for a very long time because I wish to keep my Vcore set on Auto (I don't want my voltage set manually because it will remain at that voltage all the time).
I've been playing around with a lot of settings and none of them have worked.
The main problem is I want to be stable at 4.3GHz but with Vdroop set to Auto, it will only deliver 1.288V during a Prime95 torture test. 1.288V is not enough because after 10 min. I will get the 0x124 Bluescreen, which is too little Vcore. I have manually found out that 1.296V will do the trick! But again this is set manual... After switching to Vdroop set to Low Vdroop the Vcore voltage JUMPS to 1.42V during stress test (Prime95 & IBT)!! Waaaay too high. This will only get worse if I set my processor speed to 4.4GHz, Vcore will then be 1.44/1.45V and so on..
Bios is updated to version 1.H. I updated from 1.8 to 1.C to 1.H, didn't make any difference. I've also played around with bios settings but nothing solves my problem. Eup 2013, spread spectrum, C1E, Overspeed protection all disabled. Tried all C1 states. PLL overvoltage disabled & enabled. Memory both tested @ 1333MHz & 1600MHz auto&linked settings (according to spec). And so on.
I really want to overclock further then 4.3GHz (at least that one stable) using Auto Vcore. Or my voltage is too low (Vdroop set to auto) or too high (Vdroop set to Low). Please help :(
My system specs are:
Windows 7 64Bit
Intel i7 2600k
MSI P67A-GD65 (B3)
Corsair XMS3 8GB 1600MHz dual channel memory kit

To quote from a recent Ivye Bridge article:
Quote
Today Intel defines three different voltages for every Sandy Bridge CPU: LFM, nominal and turbo. LFM is the lowest frequency the CPU can run at (e.g. completely idle), nominal is the frequency it is specified to run at (e.g. 3.3GHz for a 2500K) and turbo is the highest available turbo frequency (e.g. 3.7GHz for a 2500K). Intel determines the lowest voltage possible for each one of those frequencies. Sandy Bridge obviously runs at more than just three frequencies, there are many more intermediate frequencies that it may run at depending on the current workload. The voltages at those intermediate frequencies are interpolated from the three points that I mentioned above.
There is no definition above that, and it becomes an extrapolation of a voltage above 3,7GHz. Considering that each CPU has slightly different characteristics, even within the defined frequency range, there is no knowing what each one will do and require outside that range. So the required voltage at those overclocked frequencies can vary quite a bit, and the extrapolated voltage range in auto voltage mode at a given frequency may not be enough for the individual sample, furthermore, it is limited in terms of the maximum it will consider and apply in auto mode. Once that critical point is reached, one has to be satisfied or resort to manual intervention.

Similar Messages

MOVED: High voltage on Low Vdroop Setting P67A-GD65 + 2600k

This topic has been moved to Overclockers & Undervolting & Modding Corner.
https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=155777.0

To quote from a recent Ivye Bridge article:
Quote
Today Intel defines three different voltages for every Sandy Bridge CPU: LFM, nominal and turbo. LFM is the lowest frequency the CPU can run at (e.g. completely idle), nominal is the frequency it is specified to run at (e.g. 3.3GHz for a 2500K) and turbo is the highest available turbo frequency (e.g. 3.7GHz for a 2500K). Intel determines the lowest voltage possible for each one of those frequencies. Sandy Bridge obviously runs at more than just three frequencies, there are many more intermediate frequencies that it may run at depending on the current workload. The voltages at those intermediate frequencies are interpolated from the three points that I mentioned above.
There is no definition above that, and it becomes an extrapolation of a voltage above 3,7GHz. Considering that each CPU has slightly different characteristics, even within the defined frequency range, there is no knowing what each one will do and require outside that range. So the required voltage at those overclocked frequencies can vary quite a bit, and the extrapolated voltage range in auto voltage mode at a given frequency may not be enough for the individual sample, furthermore, it is limited in terms of the maximum it will consider and apply in auto mode. Once that critical point is reached, one has to be satisfied or resort to manual intervention.

P67A-GD65 2600K - Help overklocking with auto Vcore.

Hey!
What I want to do is to reach a stable clock of 4,5ghz while having Vcore set to auto. Why I want to do that is ofcourse for the vcore to be as low as possible during idle, afterall since I leave my computer on 24/7 it spends most of the time in idle.
Right now I'm at 4,3ghz with the settings I will list below. I'm not ready to declare it to be stable just yet, but it finished 9,5h of Prime 95 Blend overnight. Read alot about BSOD's when it's idle though but so far I'm good in that aspect aswell.
When I first tried 4,3ghz I got BSOD with the code 0x124. Read up on it some and took my PLL Voltage off Auto and changed to 1,550000 and it's been fine since then. If I try 4,4ghz though I get the same thing and lowering PLL Voltage again did nothing and obv I can't just increase the Vcore since I want it on auto. Any tips on the matter would be greatly appreciated.
BIOS 1.15B5
Overclocking
CPU Base Frequency [10kHz] [10000]
Adjust CPU Ratio [34]
Adjust CPU Ratio in OS [Disabled]
Internal PLL Overvoltage [Auto]
EIST [Enabled]
Intel Turbo Boost [Enabled]
DRAM Frequency [AUTO]
Extreme Memory Profile (X.M.P) [Enabled]
DRAM Timing Mode [Link]
Spread Spectrum [Disabled]
VDroop Control [Auto]
CPU Core Voltage [AUTO]
CPU I/O Voltage [Auto]
DRAM Voltage [AUTO]
System Agent Voltage (SA) [Auto]
CPU PLL Voltage [1.550000V]
PCH 1.05 [Auto]
DDR_VREF_CA_A [Auto]
DDR_VREF_CA_B [Auto]
DDR_VREF_DA_A [Auto]
DDR_VREF_DA_B [Auto]
Overclocking/Advanced DRAM Configuration
2,9,9,9,24, the rest on Auto
Overclocking/CPU Features
Hyper-threading [Enabled]
Active Processor Cores [All]
Limit CPUID Maximum [Disabled]
Execute Disable Bit [Enabled]
Intel Virtualisation Tech [Enabled]
Intel VT-D Tech [Disabled]
Power Technology [Custom]
C1E Support [Enabled]
Overspeed Protection [Enabled]
Intel C-State [Enabled]
Package C State Limit [No Limit]
Long Duration Power Limit (W) 120
Long Duration Maintained (ms) 1000
Long Duration Power Limit (W) 130
Primary plane turbo power limit 0
1-Core Ratio Limit 43
2-Core Ratio Limit 43
3-Core Ratio Limit 43
4-Core Ratio Limit 43
Screens of settings:
Greenpower - web.comhem.se/tnt/Greenpower.JPG
Overclocking 1 - web.comhem.se/tnt/Overklocking.JPG
Overclocking 2 - web.comhem.se/tnt/Overklocking2.JPG
CPUfeatures - web.comhem.se/tnt/CPUfeatures.JPG

Quote from: Soilworker on 14-September-11, 22:49:36
Tried the settings you recommended and I think they would be stable, but for 4,4ghz my vcore was 1,432 under load and I dont feel comfortable with it that high. Tried turning Vdroop back to auto and then the Vcore under load was 1.298 but that seemed to be too low as I got a BSOD with 0x124 after only ~2mins of Blend in Prime.
Also, when disabling Turbo Boost the options for individual cores and for the "duration limits" 120/1000/130 is no longer there. Changed it to the values you said before turning boost off though but I doubt it did any difference?
Yup! Stop: 124 is not enough CPU V. Your CPU is unfortunately not going to play nice it appears. Just a guess, but have the feeling 4.2 (maybe 4.3) is going to be it's limit & keep around the recommended maximum of 1.400v's at heavy load. To be honest, after the durations disappear after the disable, I don't know if those settings are then still in affect. Recommend to keep the VDroop set to 'Low'.

I7-2600k and P67A-GD65 (B3) OC Vdroop voltage offset?

I'm looking to get a stable 42x OC out of my 2600k, I'm using a P67A-GD65(B3) with the latest BIOS(4.3). I currently have a 40x OC via the turbo multipliers. I want the CPU to underclock and undervolt when idle in the interest of heat and lifespan, so I want to leave the multiplier and vcore on Auto. Currently, auto vcore with this 40x OC results in 1.256V under full load. With a manual OC (multiplier and vcore), I was able to get 40x stable at 1.185V.
I understand this motherboard does not have a voltage offset function, but from my research Vdroop can do a similar thing? If I wanted to offset my vcore by -0.050V what would I set the Vdroop to?

Quote from: Chike on 30-March-15, 04:37:00
Vdroop should never be negative, but why not just vcore to whatever you want?
With EIST and c-state CPU multiplier and voltages should change according to load.
I know but with vcore on auto it uses a lot more voltage than is necessary. I want to use as little voltage as possible to keep temperatures down and have the CPU last a while.
When I manually set vcore, the CPU will underclock when idle, but voltage will stay at whatever value I set. I have all the power saving stuff, EIST, C1E, C-state, etc enabled.
My question is if it is possible to use the Vdroop function to decrease the voltage under load?

P67A-GD65/P67A-GD55/P67A-GD53 Vdroop fix

Hi guys,
HQ just released this bios for the P67A-GD65/P67A-GD55/P67A-GD53 which should fix the Vdroop issue.
If someone on the forum wants to try, you can share this bios.
Model: MS-7681 PCB: 1.0/2.0/2.1 Author: Oasis Chen
Old Version: E7681IMS.431 Build Date: 08/23/2012
New Version: E7681IMS.432
Description for FAE:
1.Fix vdroop offset control function can't work normally issue and modify code to avoid chip bug issue.

Quote from: Svet on 09-October-12, 18:51:44
It's universal method and will perform full BIOS chip update[include required ME update] with regard less of current installed BIOS version
No it will flash only one, active one.
Thank You Svet. It`s nice to have new version of MSI HQ Forum USB flasher with ME update function Great job!
Bit offtop, sorry but I have to ask. Is it technically possible that flasher eventually get option to flash both bios chips on motherboards like P67-GD65?
Or maybe it is good thing that it can flash only one chip for now(?) I do not understand consequences. Pro and cons of having me7 and me8 on pri/sec bios chips?
I do not want to make mistake (using MSI flash procedure) but wanna try new VDroop/Offset feature of Click Bios II. Maybe it will cure my over 1.4V auto voltage on 4,5GHz
PS: Sorry, my English seams to be horrible. I hope You can read my mind, hehe...

How do I connect and detect a high frquency pulse (0-3500hz) with a variable pulse voltage (0v low,5-10v high), on a SC-2345 connected to a PCI-6224?

How do I connect and detect a high frquency pulse (0-3500hz) with a variable pulse voltage (0v low,5-10v high), on a SC-2345 connected to a PCI-6224? Labview doesn't generate a waveform if I try to graph the signal, and my analog input doesn'y recognize that the signal is even pulsing, only that it has a voltage. Some advice would be much appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Garrett

Hi Garrett,
It sounds like you want to do Frequency Measurements of a signal that is somewhat digital.
There are two ways you can really do this:
Wire your signal to the counter input and use the Digital Frequency examples (Help > Find Examples > Browse > Hardware Input and Output > DAQmx > Counter Measurements > Digital Frequency)
Continue taking analog measurements and use some sort of logic to determine where you are getting rising and falling edges.
I would recommend doing method #1, but you must determine which one is the best for your system.
If you want to connect to the counter pins then you will find the
terminals located on the side of your SC-2345. If you don't need
to condition your signals then simply wire everything into the proper
pins for your counter (below).
Default NI-DAQmx Counter Terminals (Connector 0)
Terminal
Counter Context (Default)
Motion Encoder Context
Signal Name
37
CTR 0 SRC
CTR 0 A
PFI 8
3
CTR 0 GATE
CTR 0 Z
PFI 9
45
CTR 0 AUX
CTR 0 B
PFI 10
2
CTR 0 OUT
PFI 12
42
CTR 1 SRC
CTR 1 A
PFI 3
41
CTR 1 GATE
CTR 1 Z
PFI 4
46
CTR 1 AUX
CTR 1 B
PFI 11
40
CTR 1 OUT
PFI 13
Otis
Training and Certification
Product Support Engineer
National Instruments

P67A-GD65 new system bios setting recommendations and sata connections

Hey all,
My old dual core HTPC (after many hours of use) finally gave up the ghost and moved on to the great PC grave yard . I have ordered all the new upgrade parts from Newegg and am looking for recommendations on what bios settings and setup procedures I should use on the initial bootup and Windows load. I'm not looking to overclock I just want a fast stable system for video decoding and playback. It's my understanding from the manual that SATA 1-2 are controlled by the Intel P67 chip and 7-8 are controlled by the Marvell chip but I am unsure of SATA 3-6. Can SATA 3-6 do raid 0? I want to use the Crucial SSD as my primary boot drive and the 2 WD drives on raid 0 as my secondary drive. SATA connection advice (which SATA ports) and Raid Bios setting would be helpful. Should I install the raid 0 drives after I have Windows 7 loaded on the SSD? Any other setup advice is appreciated.
Here is my setup.
Windows 7 64bit
Bach HTPC case
Ultra LSP 750Pro PSU
Intel i5-2500 3.3G CPU
MSI P67A-GD65 Motherboard
Sapphire HD5570 1G RT Video Card
Crucial CTFDDAC128MAG-1G1 SSD 6.0Gb/s SATAIII (Primary boot drive)
2 WD3200KS Hard Drives SATA 3.0Gb/s (Raid 0)
Lite-on 12X Blu-Ray Burner SATA
G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600

Two questions answered. SATA 3-6 are controlled by the Intel P67 chip and do support Raid 0 but I still wonder if I should wait to install the drives until Windows has finished it's install.
SATAIII controller integrated in Intel® P67 & Marvell SE9128 chipsets
- Up to 6Gb/s transfer speed.
- Supports two SATAIII ports (SATA1~2) by P67 PCH
- Supports two SATAIII ports (SATA7~8) by Marvell SE9128
- SATA1~6 ports support RAID 0/1/5/10 mode by Intel P67 PCH
- SATA7~8 ports support RAID 0/1 mode by Marvell SE9128

P67A-GD65 RAID set-up problem... HELP!

First off I tried the search to find any threads but the search didn't come back with anything relevant.
So here is my problem. Brand new build and can't get the RAID drivers to install. Can't even find the drivers by themselves without a EXE file to run them. I have them on a USB flash drive but Win7 won't recognize them because they are still bundled into the EXE program. I've tried to extract them from the Marvell RAID Drivers given on the MSI support site but still no luck. I have the MSI P67A-GD65 with two Seagate ST32000641AS Barracuda XT HDs plugged into the Marvell SATA III ports 7 & 8. Win7 install sees them as two separate drives so I'm stuck trying to find some drivers that Win7 will recognize and install off the USB drive.
Also I'm reading that the Marvell SATA III controller isn't as fast as the Intel P67 SATA III controller.... should I swap the cables over and avoid the Marvell? If so any help finding the Intel P67 RAID Drivers would be greatly appreciated.

Things have changed since my last build, thank God!
In the old days you had to install the RAID drivers before installing the OS onto the array. Today I just set up the RAID 0 array after installing Windows 7 onto one of the two drives. So all that time I spent looking for drivers that weren't part of an EXE file was a waste. I did swap from the SATA III Marvell ports (7 & 8) to the SATA III ports (1 & 2) that are Intel P67 PCH. I then installed Windows 7, popped in the MSI motherboard disc, and loaded the Intel RAID drivers. After that I opened the Intel Control Panel that was installed with the RAID drivers and set-up the RAID 0 array. Now it seems Windows 7 is migrating itself onto that array. Bad news... because the array is so large. Two 2TB drives... its going to take a long time. Not sure if there is a better/faster way.

Is there a definitive word on how high/low to set agp aperture, et al?

Seemingly, the most elusive part of the bios settings is the agp-related settings (agp aperture, fast-write, etc.). I say this, because all I ever find on posts is 'this is what I do', or 'well, this is my rule-of-thumb...'. Is there no definitive logic for how to set these? I realize, like some people say, you can futz with the settings, run a benchmark, rinse, repeat, until you get your best benchmark setting, but this seems a bit too 'random' for my taste. I'd actually like to understand what I'm doing, why I'm doing it, and be able to see the benchmark to prove it right or wrong.
Does anyone have a good, definitive understanding of these features to be able to offer a reasonable justification for setting them one way or the other? So far, in my limited understanding, I tend to think I should set my agp aperture to as low a setting as possible, for example, as my video card has 256mb onboard, which exceeds the requirements of the games I play in-and-of-itself. Thus, why would I want to tie up system ram when video card ought to have more than enough already? Maybe this sounds stupid, but that's why I'm asking

256Mb should be more than enough to run todays games at HI settings. From what I understand it only addresses out memory tasks when onboard memory has exceeded its amount. Running down the AGP bus to RAM would be slower than onboard because of the interface (GFX-upto 256Bit DDR3 etc). If the app can run happy with onboard RAM, the amount set for "aperture" is used for system use and is not set a side until the apps needs more than GFX can offer addressed onboard. It does need an amount set even if its the smallest amount. I thinks
Also please read below pages:
http://www.tweak3d.net/articles/aperture-size/
http://www.cybercpu.net/howto/basic/AGP_aperture/index.asp
http://www.anandtech.com/news/shownews.aspx?i=17139

P67a-GD65 System Freezes and Recovers During 3D gaming and Online Video

The Problem:
Temporary system freeze with audio stutter. The system recovers 30sec - 2min later.
Key presses made during freeze will execute after system recovers (ctrl+alt+delete for example)
Usually, but not always, I see an error message in the system tray and I do NOT experience bsod.
This happens seemingly at random from 3D accelerated applications, and web browsing. Games such as BF3 (moderate), WoW (seldom), Planetside 2 (frequently), Minecraft (seldom), Hawken (seldom), etc.
Also happens frequently in both Internet Explorer 9/10, Firefox, Chrome, and Steam store browser. Typically when watching steaming video (youtube, HULU, flow player, etc)
but Pandora audio streaming also seems to create the conditions where this happens.
Error Message:
"Display driver stopped responding and has recovered
Display driver NVIDIA Windows Kernal Mode Driver 314.07 stopped
responding and has successfully recovered"
The problem also shows up in the Windows reliability history with the following data:
Source
Windows
Summary
Video hardware error
Date
‎3/‎6/‎2013 9:11 PM
Status
Not reported
Description
A problem with your video hardware caused Windows to stop working correctly.
Problem signature
Problem Event Name:   LiveKernelEvent
OS Version:   6.1.7601.2.1.0.768.3
Locale ID:   1033
Files that help describe the problem
WD-20130306-2010.dmp
sysdata.xml
WERInternalMetadata.xml
Extra information about the problem
BCCode:   117
BCP1:   FFFFFA8011E0C4E0
BCP2:   FFFFF8800654A198
BCP3:   0000000000000000
BCP4:   0000000000000000
OS Version:   6_1_7601
Service Pack:   1_0
Product:   768_1
My System Hardware:
CPU: Intel i7 2600k @ 4.5ghz
Motherboard: MSI p67a-gd65 (B3 stepping)
Memory: G.SKILL Sniper 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600
GPU: Originally MSI 6950 2GB. Replaced with EVGA 670 FTW 2GB.
PSU: CORSAIR HX Series HX850 850W
HDD: 3x Western Digital WD RE4 WD5003ABYX 500GB in Raid 0
OS: Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 with all updates
Case/Cooling: Silverstone Raven 2E with Thermalright silver arrow cpu heatsink
What I've tried:
Updated all motherboard drivers and bios (4.3) to current versions (no improvement)
Updated display drivers (in safe mode with driver sweeper. No improvement)
Updated Realtek Audio drivers for onboard sound (no improvement)
Updated Intel Rapid Storage drivers (no improvment)
Cleared CMOS and tested system at default settings with no overlock (no improvement)
Flashed 6950 back to 6950 stock bios and removed overclock (no improvement)
Replaced old 6950 with new GTX 670 (problem still occurs in the same exact way)
Tried GPU in 2nd PCIe slot. No improvement.
Checked GPU Temps. GTX 670 fan profile in EVGA Precision X set to keep temp below 70 degrees Celcius. Card maxes at 60 degrees under heavy gaming load.
Complete reformat of raid array with fresh install of Windows (4 different times) Seemed to help for a few days, then freezes came back
Ran OCCT and Prime 95 Torture tests separately for a few hours at stock and OC settings. System stable with core temps of high 50's overclocked, and low 40's stock.
Ran Memtest86 for 10 hours with zero errors.
Used digital multimeter to test 12v rail on PSU. Noted solid 12v reported. Didn't test other rails.
Unplugged PSU cables from motherboard and reattached firmly
Ran HD Tune and Data Life Guard Tools for error checking on hard disks. Zero errors found.
Disabled Windows Aero (no improvement)
Updated Adobe Flash Player to latest setting (no improvement)
Removed Adobe Flash Player (no improvement)
Turned off Adobe Flash hardware acceleration (no improvement)
*EDIT: Forgot that I also adjusted Nvidia driver profiles for apps that have frozen to include power preference to max performance
All of my hardware with the exception of the new 670 was purchased and configured back in February of 2011. This problem first occured in BF3 multiplayer sometime in early 2012,
and has gradually been happening more frequently. Web searches found many individuals with this error, but the solutions are all over the map, and I've tried just about everything that I've found.
I think I've narrowed the problem down to the motherboard, but I just can't find a clear answer or solution. Maybe it's the raid array? I really thought replacing the GPU would solve my trouble here
and I was...NOT happy when it happened again with the new 670 that I scored for $250 after amazon gift cards. I typically get kicked/disconnected during online game play when this happens and I'm ready to be done with it. I was hoping to fix the issue without needing to buy new hardware, but I don't see any other way at this point.
My patience runs thin. Please help!

Quote from: Froggy Gremlin on 11-March-13, 15:28:36
Might want to ask for the special archive to return the mainboard to pre-Ivy support UEFI/BIOS and then test again with everything set to auto/stock/default.
Already tested that before updating to 4.3. I started having the problem on 1.8, then 1.J0, then 4.3.
Quote from: Bernhard on 11-March-13, 15:30:29
Just a shot in the dark.
The length of time that your CPU has been running at the OC could have accelerated the eventual degradation.
Have you tested your CPU in another board or do you have access to a "known good" CPU to test in your system ?
I do not have another 1155 lga board to test the cpu in unfortunately, hence the CPU stress testing. Based upon previous experiences with multiple overclocked systems that I've run at much more aggressive overclocks, I don't believe I'm seeing a processor failure, though I can't rule out the possibility.
Quote from: xmad on 11-March-13, 23:26:01
Quite a few components can cause this.
Do you have a friend that could lend you a psu to test? A weak of failing PSU can often be the cause of something like this?
No I don't have another PSU to test. I did use a digital multimeter to test the 12v rail, as well as the motherboard contacts for testing voltage to the cpu and system They were all right in line with what I'm seeing reported in the bios. I did not test these contacts while the system was under load however, so I may need to do it again.

Overclocking an i7-2700k on P67A-GD65

My specs are:
Intel Core i7-2700K @ stock speeds (Cooled by Hyper 212 Plus)
MSI P67A-GD65 (B3)
G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 16GB DDR3 1600
Crucial M4 128GB SATA III
2x 2TB Samsung Spinpoint F4 (Storage)
ATI Radeon 4870x2
Samsung Blue-Ray Combo/DVD Burner
CORSAIR Enthusiast Series TX850 V2
LIAN LI Lancool PC-K62
So I tried Overclocking yesterday after watching a guide on YouTube.. It seemed pretty easy on a sandy bridge so I thought I'd give it a try. I went into bios changed the CPU voltage to 1.35, changed the CPU multiplier to 45, and enabled XMP profile, I then saved settings and rebooted. Windows booted up fine, turned on prime 95 and opened up real temp and ran prime 95 to make sure CPU temps stayed below 70C. One core managed to reach 70 but other than that everything was gone so Im assuming everything was stable and good. I reboot my pc and you know how when you install new ram or CPU, while rebooting for the first time it says new CPU installed etc? Well that popped up and I got curious so I went into bios and everything went back to default again. So I set up it up All over again, saved and rebooted and now I'm getting a blue screen. So I reboot go into bios and notice my sata isn't set to AHCI. So I set it and reboot. Widows loads again... I then reboot again and I get a blue screen.. Also noticing my motherboard light is flashing. I check the manual and it told me that one of my bios profiles failed. I looked up how to fix it online and managed to fix it. The light disappeared, went into bios tried to oc it again... Saved.. Rebooted light started flashing.. Windows booted up fine. I then restarted... And the comp restarted on its own a few times during post. I fix the light flashing set everything to default and now I'm clueless as to why this is happening to me. Do any of you have any ideas why??!
I'm sorry for such a long post, I'm just trying to explain what I did the best I could. If you have any questions please ask and I'll try to answer!!!!
Thanks In advance!!!!!!!

Quote from: HU16E on 09-January-12, 15:54:34
I would still recommend what was mentioned in Reply #3. Establish how high you can set the CPU speed with the CPU V. in Auto (default). Then you have a baseline on which to go by when switching to a manual OC. Keep in mind, once CPU V. is taken out of Auto, you lose power saving ability.
Power as in electricity? or power from power supply?
Oh also, after setting the stuff in BIOS and rebooting.... I noticed a FAN ( Don't know which one ) but kept going low rpm & high rpm for like 3-5 seconds... before it was normal again... then booted up to windows normally... is this supposed to happen?
Also, 20 minutes into PRIME 95 and CoreTEMP and RealTEMP... this is what i have so far..... memory has not been modifiied in bios... Only the 1.35 CPU Core Voltage and Multiplier is 45.
I just stopped the Prime95 and the final 4 highest temps were 66 73 74 71. That's too high huh?

(P67A-GD65) BIOS update worked but now ACPI dead?

Hi guys, anyone seen this before?
P67A-GD65(b3) + i5 2500K + G Skill Ripjaws 1600 + MSI GTX560 (all about 1 week old)
Did a successful BIOS update to 1.B (which is what the AU msi site listed as latest BIOS, I now realise that 1.C is out).
Everything seems fine in BIOS but Win7 hangs at "Starting Windows" (regular boot, repair boot, even the install setup boot from disc).
Booting from a Linux cd it hangs at the ACPI part.
System was perfectly stable prior to this (but my mouse didn't work in BIOS and XMP timings didn't seem to be applied, hence the update).
BIOS update was done using forum USB tool. CMOS has definitely been cleared.
Any suggestions? I am probably going to try updating to BIOS 1.C but since I don't have a working PC now (posting this from our iMac) I will have to go use a friend's PC to run the USB tool and create the BIOS update stick.
Thanks

Quote from: HU16E on 26-June-11, 12:17:16
For a short term test, raise DRAM V. manually to the maximum 1.65v's, set CPU V-Droop to low, phase control from SVID to APS.
I did try a raised DRAM V at one point (to no success), but didn't touch phase control so could try that too.
I have found one single way to make it load windows - by flashing 1.C directly from the "M-flash" page of the BIOS itself
The on the reset directly following the update it will then boot windows correctly.
This first happened this afternoon and I rejoiced and then shutdown to reconnect all the devices that had been unplugged during diagnosis ... then when I went to boot up again ... hung ... again
Tried to get all scientific by trying voltage settings and unplugging case fans, etc ... nothing work so I gave up, did something (theoretically) foolish and tried the M-flash page in BIOS again. Re-flashed v1.C again and once again it booted into windows
Starting to think along the lines of RMA here ... this can't be normal.

P67A-GD65 (b3) Answers maybe?

I'd like to give a little information to those having problems with this board :o
My first response to the bored was UH OH not another bad one.. But, luckily after a few tweaks I got it going nice and stable
My mobo came with the 1.8 bios when it was sent to me. I messed up and didn't even bother reading the installation guide.
I had a brand new system except for my hard drive. Powercolor 6950 2gb *flashed to 6970*, P67A-GD65 (b3), Corsair 750w, Asus blu-ray/dvd, ThermalTake Frio, G.Skill p67 ram 1600mhz 8-8-8-24 1.5v. I messed up my first boot by having the 2 dimms in the black slots because my heat sink fan was in the the way. (NOTE: Only use 1 dimm in the BLUE slot on first initial boot). I kept getting a black screen after the bios screen with a white underscore blinking! WOULD NOT POST! I would recommend completely cleaning your HD out completely before initial boot! I also didn't load optimized settings on initial boot... After some time of reading online instructions I got my PC running, but not stable. I would shut down my computer and have a constant power cycle(kept turning itself on), or get a BSOD with voltage code errors. JPWR2 was installed with the correct power pin connector; all LED lights lit up...(DIDN"T MAKE ANY SENSE!). So I cleared the CMOS with the handy button and then loaded optimized defaults. I then updated the bios using the USB flash tool to 1.91b. On initial boot I loaded optimized settings with just 1 Dimm in the blue slot(HAD TO TAKE OFF MY FAN TEMPORARILY), formatted my HD, and followed with a clean install of Windows 7 64bit. Everything seemed fine! I now have my system overclocked to 4.5GHZ only changing the multiplier to x45. After windows loaded I installed my 2nd memory stick now both allocated in the blue dimm slots and manually set the timings to 1600mhz 1-8-8-8-24. I have to say I'm suprised so many people are having problems. Another thing I did my HD is a 3GBS blue cavier WD 640gb 7200rpm 32mb cache... At first boot even after the update I was getting that my HDD was not being detected before the bios screen popped up but I was still able to boot windows... It was installed in the 3gbs sata slot 3 with 3gbs sata chord.. All I did was change it to the white 6gbs slot using the white 6gbs sata chord and it finally detected it before initial bios loading. Everything is stable.. I ran prime95 extreme memory and cpu for 15 hours and the hottest it got was 61c. I hope this helps some of you guys... Forgive my poor english I'm asian and have only learned english for 3 years.
ALSO! almost forgot.. When changing your DRAM voltage *(most memory says 1.5v)* You need to set it high enough so that it gets the stated voltage seen in your bios.. for instance I use 1.565 and my voltage displayed on my mobo is 1.505
Some Images of my Bios OC settings
http://img705.imageshack.us/i/sam0244s.jpg/
My new rig parts
http://img130.imageshack.us/i/sam0216x.jpg/

Quote from: HU16E on 22-March-11, 04:32:44
It is highly recommended for intitial startup, only the primary blue dimm slot be populated. No offense to anyone, but these Gen2 CPU's run very cool. Are these gargantuan CPU coolers really necessary? I got to 5111 on the stock cooler, ambient 20C, with out any overheat problems. Did install a Zalman 9900 later, but makes it able to maintain using the recommended blue dimm slots.
Added: If you move the RAM, or add RAM, it will be sensed by the BIOS as a system change, & custom settings may have to be redone again.
Well, it makes me feel better lol. I'm kinda confused by what initial startup means though. Does that mean the very first time I put everything together and fire the computer up? Succeeding boot ups will then work fine when only using the black dimm slots?

MSI P67A-GD65 VDrop Mod

Now I came across this modification for the MSI P67A-GD65 but I have no idea what this will do. Perhaps an adjustment for the VDrop (Vdroop?) voltage setting?
It's this mod posted on hwbot.org: http://hwbot.org/forum/showthread.php?t=22294
I'm not saying I want to apply this and perhaps ruin my motherboard or encourage anyone to do this, I'm just curious and wanted to share/discuss this with the people here on MSI HQ. Feel free to speculate and do any of the moderators/tech people have any idea what this does?
Happy modding

It doesn't state the origin, nor the real outcome (except a claim about VDrop ???), nor does it have any comparitive values, i.e. before and after. Not a very scientific way of approaching things. It just happens to appear in someones inbox. This post is March 2011 and no further comments since then ? I would be very careful.
Anyone attempting this, you are on your own. Let us know how daring you are and what your results are.

P67a-gd65 random freezes

Hello,
I am having issues with my new system that i have built.
MSI P67a-gd65 (B3)
Corsair XMS3 1600
MSI Twin frozr GTX560 TI
Core i7 2600K
Windows 7 64 bit
My system will randomly lockup and i can't get it to work again unless i hard reset the machine. I have set the motherboard to optimized defaults and the memory is running at 1333. I also made sure my RAM timings and voltages were set to their defaults. I have not overclocked the system in any way. These lockups only occur when i am doing leisure things like surfing the web or checking my email. I can play any game i want for several hours on end without a lockup. I have updated my drivers from the MSI website and this also did not help.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Anthony

Quote from: Ethylo on 30-March-11, 05:28:23
I had exact same issue with very close hardware ( only dif is 2500K instead of your 2600K, and B2 motherboard ) and after many test I finally found the solution by changing SPD memory from JEDEC4 to XMP-1600.
JEDEC4 was completely unstable , I got no BSOD but random freeze, especially when idling/low activity.
IMHO Corsair memories are definately not stable with JEDEC4.
Now 10 days with XMP SPD and fully stable !
Hello all,
I've been 24 hour crash free. I also setup my memory as listed above (thanks for that tip).
Thanks to everyone who replied with ideas.

High voltage on Low Vdroop Setting P67A-GD65 + 2600k

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