Higher end camera for Connect?

I was curious if anyone has had luck or a recommendation getting a higher end camera (non web-cam) to work with Connect? Something like a mid-range consumer hand-held camera or something along those lines. I am using the Cloud version of Connect on Windows PC's. I'd like to have a better quality camera with pan/zoom capabilities that we can mount on a tripod... USB would be preferable, but I believe our connection machine also has a firewire port. Anyone have any success stories or brands/models they can share?

Now-a-days, most high-end video cameras are only equipped with HDMI out instead of instead of firewire. If your computer has Thunderbolt, consider Blackmagic Ultra Studio Express. This device can capture HDMI (from the camera) and export via Thunderbolt to the computer. It's best to use Thunderbolt > Firewire versus USB since the two former methods allow for a higher rate of data transfer versus the latter which will result in loss of frames.

Similar Messages

High End camera for Adobe Connect??

Hello,
Just wondering if anyone had any suggestions on a tripod
mountable camera for Adobe Connect? preferably something with USB
interface...saw a number of mini DV cameras but alas that format is
being phased out. Suggestions appreciated. Thanks

I use a small 3 CCD Sony DCR-HC1000 miniDV camcorder on a 7" tabletop tripod (with tilt arm) so I can get good views of everyone around the conference table. It's nice to be able to easily adjust exposure, since I use rooms with windows and have a wide variety of skin tones among my participants. I use firewire to a laptop for video and Universal Voice with a Polycom SoundStation 1000 for audio.

Conference room camera for Connect Pro??

Trying to determine the best voice activated pan/tilt/zoom
camera for conference room to use with Adobe Connect Pro. Any
information is helpful . . . type of camera, quality of picture,
functionality, cost, connection, etc. Thanks!

Please post your Connect Pro questions here:
http://www.connectusers.com/forums/cucbb/
You might be able to find the answer to your question here:
http://www.connectusers.com/community/monthly_topic/2008/12/
We did a topic of the month on video in December

Higher End Usage for Airport Network

Greetings...
I am creating a wireless network for my company of which there are roughly 40 users who will be using it intermittently. In order to cover the area I have, I installed 3 Airport Extreme (new ones), gave them all the same wireless network name, and the exact same authentication method & password. This does allow any given person to roam around the office without losing their wireless connection, however some iBook G4's are having problems switching to a base station with a stronger signal and are instead insisting upon using one further away with a far less stable connection... I can force it to use a closer one by signing off the network completely and signing back on, but if you restart, it picks the further away base station once again. Anyone have any ideas on this? My logic for not using WDS is for more bandwidth as each base station has access to an ethernet drop. It is still better to use WDS instead of each base station having a dedicated LAN connection?

I had the same problem. So, I named each airport with a unique name and now have 5 different signons possible (5 airports). It did not fix the problem, but as I use it more and more, I am able to figure out which airport should be used for what area. Also, I use iStumbler to see the signal/noise levels in different locations. That has helped some. Still, this is a problem that Apple needs to look into. OSX just doesn't switch to the highest level airport connection when it should.
iStumbler will give you a lot of data about your wifi network and I highly recommend it. You can get it here for free, http://www.istumbler.net/ If you like it, I suggest giving the author a donation.

New high end MBP when connected to 27" monitor gaming has a pulse type lag that is unrelated to FPS. I have tried everything and nothing seems to work. Any suggestions?

Please help!

Hi,
thanks very much for taking an interest and sharing your experiences. I'm glad your problem seems to have been resolved.
For me, none of the tricks you mention really solve the problem. As far as I understand, all of them come down to forcing the macbook pro to use the nvidia graphics (instead of integrated graphics) to run the monitor. When I do this, the amount of flickering is reduced dramatically, but it's still there - instead of constant flickers, I get them usually a couple times a minute, sometimes a few minutes in between. While that's an improvement, it's still very annoying, and distracts from doing work or watching movies.
Again, the MPB 13 doesn't have this problem in any circumstance.
I've posted a little video illustrating this: http://picasaweb.google.com/kevinjorissenpdx/ComputerProblems20101008?authkey=Gv1sRgCPad7e7M3qas-QE# and choose the last file.
You'll see the screen flicker like crazy, then I press shift-control-eject, which puts the screen to sleep, then I wake it up again - the mbp now knows it has to be on nvidia just as after you rebooted - and in the remaining minute or so, you can see it flicker twice (this is boring to wait for ;)), of course it did it again right after I switched off the camera . This is a 'best case' ; usually, the disturbances come every 15-20 seconds. I don't know why it varies.
if BSteely or anyone else has a way of submitting my reports to Apple, please go ahead. I'd like to finally get my monitor working right ...
(As an aside, I've noticed that 'Spaces' (with 4 desktops enabled, as is standard) and the external monitor don't work together smoothly & seem to get confused.)

Advice on buying camera for stills and high speed video

Hello video pros,
I'm a music composer who occasionally dallies with some simple photographic and video work. I'm looking for some advice re picking up a camera to make some simple videos, but with the highest quality I can get with consumer grade gear.
I am pretty much ruling out consumer grade camcorders for two reasons: One is that I want to be able to shoot high quality stills and make stop motion videos from very high res stills. The other is that I don't need audio recording at all because the video will always be just to accompany music - simple music videos basically. So I'm much more interested in the recent mid range point-and-shoot bridge cameras with full HD video modes rather than camcorders - they seem to cover more realistically the range of things I want to do.
My main question is regarding shooting at higher frame rates than 30 fps. I'd like to shoot video at a minimum of 60 fps (or higher) to then playback at 25 fps to get that smooth, slightly dreamy motion effect. There are a few cameras out there that offer high speed video modes, but most are nothing more than a gimmick because the res is so low that the resulting video is unusable. However a few cameras now seem to hit a sweet spot, offering 60 fps recording at HD res, and also 120 fps at 640x480 which (at a pinch) is usable, at least for stuff destined for simple web use.
The cameras I've narrowed it down to so far seem to be the Nikon Coolpix P500, the Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ40 and possibly the Fujifilm HS20 EXR. I also was vaguely interested in the Casio Exilim HS cameras, but they seem to only offer high speed video modes that are pointless - 1000 fps at a completely useless low res, and 120 fps only at 640x480. The others I listed seem to offer at least 60 fps at some kind of HD res, so I'm assuming that with these cameras I could shoot decent looking video which would then play back with that slightly hyper real slow-mo effect when I import into FCP at 25 fps. Is this correct? Or is it the case that when they say HD video @ 60fps, it's some kind of interlaced mode which means you can't play back at a slower frame rate to get smooth slow motion?
The other thing I've noted is that all of these cameras do record HD video, but it's always compressed in H264 format. I understand that this puts a serious limitation on how much post-processing you can do to the video afterwards. Highly compressed video will begin to show image artefacts very quickly when you apply effects as opposed to higher quality (bigger file size) video compression. But I think I can live with that given that for the stuff I want to make, it will just be simply edited and only lightly graded. However, of the cameras I'm looking at, the Lumix also records in a format called AVCHD which (I think) does full HD at 17 Mbps. Does this mean that it's basic video quality is significantly better than the other choices? That said, from the specs it's unclear if it actually allows shooting at higher frame rates which you can slow down at playback.. the way it describes 60fps mode makes it sound like it's just interlacing so you don't actually get a higher number of images per second to then be able to play back at a lower frame rate. This for me might rule it out because I really want the creative effect of high speed video, even if it's only the subtle effect of 60 fps slowed down to 25.
So in summary, I'm looking for a camera capable of creative shooting (high quality stills to make stop motion videos, usable-quality HD video along with at least some degree of high speed video at a resolution that is still usable) to make interesting and artistic footage to accompany music. The destination medium is the web, so even though I'd like to get the best quality raw material to work with, the final destination is not exactly a cinema screen. As a pro in a related industry, I'm all too aware of the pointlessness of buying outlandishly over-specced gear that is far beyond your level of expertise. So I want to keep it simple and realistic, budget-wise, given the level I'm at. Nothing more than say $800 US. A seriously high end camera would be wasted on me, and I think it would be wiser to invest in useful accessories like a steadicam merlin and decent tripod rather than blow loads of cash on a camera far beyond my skill level.
Apologies for the long post, any and all advice would be very welcome and appreciated! And feel free to correct me if my assumptions are wrong, and suggest any gear that I should consider looking at.

Hi, thanks for your input. I'm aware of the fact that my question is a bit OT, but I'm just looking for input from people with more experience and broader information in this area than I have myself.. I know people are here to talk about FCP, but I'm betting many editors and film makers who work with FCP will have more insight in this area than I do.
I've been reading every review I can find at dpreview, and also am watching as many test video examples I can find on the internet, mostly on vimeo because the ones on youtube look pretty awful. I just am reaching out to get some actual experience and advice from people who might give me pointers on what to look out for.
As for 60fps not being fast enough, I know what you're saying. But for me, even 60 fps slowed down to 25 fps on playback is enough of an interesting effect, as long as the actual quality of the footage looks good to start off with. I like the subtle effect of slightly slower than real motion when it's real, bona-fide high frame rate slowed down. Artificially created slow-mo using plug ins looks cheesy to me, and the gimmicky super high frame rates of cameras like the casio exilim (where the resolution looks like a mobile phone video from ten years ago) are completely useless.
I've seen lots of examples on vimeo of stuff shot with DSLRs from Canon and Nikon at 60fps and then played back at 25 or 24, and it looks plenty nice enough for what I'm after. But am I kidding myself that I'd get anything near as nice with the price range I'm looking at?

Stable webcam for Connect 9 on W7 64-bit?

I am having lockups with the latest Add-In on Connect 9 using Logitech's Pro9000 webcam using their latest W7 64-bit drivers. Others have complained of the logitech 64-bit drivers in other apps as well.
Anyone have a favorite camera for Connect 9? I feel like I need to build a machine dedicated to Connect and don't use it for anything else, once I get it stable. Surely it won't come to that.
Are Macs well behaved in Connect as a host/presenter plaform?

I looked at this webcam. Looks interesting, but I think the higher end Logitech webcams have built-in H.264 encryption. I wonder if that helps Connect?
<http://www.facevsion.com/en/modules/tinyd1/index.php?id=39>
Yes, I was running the Logitech drivers. I followed your link and it took me to a page for software for he webcam C510. I wonder if they download a universal packaging for old webcams, 32 and 64 bit, etc. But you indicate you are running 32-bit. That gives more credence to my case that their 64-bit drivers are unstable, as I have had read from many complaints on the net.
I was directed by Logitech to find the proper drivers in the dialog below (loved the part about leaving my computer off for 15 minutes!).
--------------------------- Logitech Response ----------------------------------------------------------------------
As I understand, you are not happy with the software of Logitech Webcam Pro 9000.
Greg, I noticed that you had submitted your email to us on 10/26/2012. I want to take a moment to apologize for the wait in receiving my response and for the inconveniences your issue might have caused you.
Please be informed that QuickCam 11 is not the latest driver of Logitech Webcam Pro 9000.
In this case, you may want to uninstall QuickCam 11 and install the latest driver of Logitech Webcam Pro 9000; the Logitech Webcam Software.
Your webcam is plug-and-play, which means that it should work with your Windows native drivers. To resolve the issue, the following are recommended:
NOTE: If you already uninstalled all Logitech webcam drivers on your computer, please proceed with Step II.
STEP I
Please uninstall QuickCam Software using Revo Uninstaller (This is a third party software.).
You can download the 30 days free trial on www.revouninstaller.com.
This software will uninstall all the components of the program including the registry.
Once you have installed the Revo Uninstaller, please follow the steps below:
1. Close the QuickCam Software> go to the system tray and look for the icon.
2. Right click on the icon of the QuickCam Software > Exit.
3. Open the Revo Uninstaller > look for the QuickCam Softwarethen right click > uninstall.
4. Wait for the software while it scans > it will ask to uninstall the software.
5. Once the software is uninstalled > select the scan to Advance then click Scan.
6. Once all the registry appears > click Select All > Delete.
7. Turn off your computer. Remove the plug from the socket.
8. Unplug the webcam.
9. After 15 minutes, turn on your computer.
STEP II
After the Logitech Webcam Software is fully uninstalled, please do the steps below:
1. Plug your webcam.
2. Check your computer specifications to make sure that the system is within the minimum requirements of the webcam to function properly.
>> Please refer to the link below:
Answer Title: Logitech Webcam Software v2.x for Windows Release Notes
Answer Link: http://logitech-en-amr.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/17022
3. Plug in the webcam to another USB port on the computer. If you are using a USB hub, bypass the hub, and plug in the webcam directly to the computer. Like any other USB device, you will hear a prompt or a message will come up indicating that your computer "found new hardware". Wait until the drivers are successfully installed.
>> Please refer to the link below:
Answer Title: Verifying your USB 2.0 webcam is working at high-speed
Answer Link: http://logitech-en-amr.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/3139
4. Test the webcam on another application (other than the Logitech Webcam Software). You may use any video calling application like Skype, Yahoo Messenger, Windows Live Messenger. If you don't have any of these applications installed yet, please click on the link below to test your webcam:
Link: http://www.testmycam.com/
Test the webcam on MyComputer.
a. Click on Start > MyComputer > Scanners and Cameras.
b. Double-click on USB Video Device or Logitech Webcam
c. Your image should appear on the screen.
If the webcam works fine now, you may now download the latest version of the Logitech Webcam Software using the link below:
http://www.logitech.com/pub/video/quickcam/lws231_full.exe
After the driver has been downloaded, please unplug the webcam, close all the application open on your desktop, and press F5 on your keyboard.
Install the driver by double-clicking the downloaded driver. A message-prompt will appear click on Run. Follow the on-screen instruction.
NOTE: Do not plug the webcam when asked to, just click on "Skip" and completely the installation.
When the installation is complete, plug the webcam.
Check if the issue has been resolved.
Test the webcam by clicking on Start > All Programs > Logitech > Logitech Webcam Software. Click on QuickCapture. This screen should show your image.
One more thing, kindly ensure that you are running the latest version of DirectX.
Web updates be obtained at http://www.microsoft.com/windows/directx/

4.4 update doesnt show the Fuji x pro 1 camera for lens adjustments etc

Looking forward to this update because i use a Fuji X pro 1 and I had read that lightroom 4.4 now supports this camera and sensor.
However after updating all I get in the Lens adjustment under Fuji is the Fuji x100 which has been their for some time.
The exif info is showing the correct camera and lens used etc.
I have tried uninstalling and then manually removing any left over files and folders with no luck.
Do i have to install support for this camera as an addon?
Also if i look in the lightroom folder Camera profiles/camera it only lists Canon, Nikon and Sony
Any ideas.?
Thanks all.
Mark C
Message was edited by: Mark Candlin

The location you describe looking in has camera-match raw-sensor profiles for the three brands you mention plus a few for Leica and Pentax, I think.
The Adobe Standard peer folder of the Camera folder you mention has the raw-sensor profiles for each camera that Adobe supports which and is where you’ll find your Fuji raw-sensor profile.
Your question seems to be about a lens-profile, though, not the raw-sensor profile and those profiles are up one more folder and down into the LensProfiles folder area.
There aren’t that many brands of camera-lens combinations supported by Adobe and the X Pro 1 is one that isn’t one that is supported by Fuji, and just the X100 is, which you’ve already discovered.
There are additional profiles that have been created by users such as yourself and published for other users to use that can be downloaded by the Adobe Lens Profile Downloader; however, there are none for the X Pro 1, there, either, so you’ll either need to create your own lens profile using the Adobe Lens Profile Creator, or wait for another user to create a lens profile, or do without. This is the normal situation for most non-high-end cameras.
Adobe pays people to do things and prioritizes tasks, pruning ones that are “less necessary” or “less beneficial” using whatever criteria they have. This is normal in a market-driven economy where there is always a balance between price and service. If LR was twice as expensive, then Adobe might be able to provide more profiles, but there would be less Fuji owners buying it due to the higher price, right? If the world economy picks up and more people buy Adobe products, assuming people still use PCs and Macs and not tablets, then there may be more money to throw at things like profiles for camera-xyz.

Re: should I buy a High Def CAMERA or not?

Ok, first of all, thank you SO much all you guys who have been helping me with very good info. So- I see the logic of NOT getting high def now if I am just playing and learning and dealing with YouTube.
I could get just a plain (non-high def) camera for under $300, like a canon ZR-850 which is miniDV but not high def. Or I could get the Canon HV20 or the Sony HDR-HC7 for about $1,100. Why should I spend the extra 7-800$ if I can't even use the high def stiff without a lot of expensive upgrades on my computer software or my screen I would be projecting on. My question is: I have a DELL 40 in plasma screen TV, and I have a G4 mac laptop w/ iMovie 06. CAN I USE HIGH DEF NOW WITH THE EQUIPMENT I HAVE? question #2 If I buy a high def camera now, can I still edit it with iMovie 06 ? is it just that the high def stuff will not be seen as high def? or is it that it won't even work at all and I won't be able to see anything or edit anything unless I have high def software etc?

Hi Stephen:
From my perspective, the question to as if you should shoot in HD comes back to the reality of HD. Few people actually own BlueRay players. Few (in real terms) people own HD TV's. So if YOU want to connect your HD camcorder to your HD TV, for fun, then sure. BUT if your planning on marketing, selling or in any way distributing your final DVD to a group, then it's harded to justify, since again, few people will be able to view your product.
I am no expert. From what I am hearing as I was asking the same questions, HD can also be tricker to shoot well, the data is a magnitude more than SD. Unless you MUST shoot in HD, what I am being told is to get a really good SD camera (mini DV, nat.) and shoot it well.
Hope this helps.
FFF

Import of a high definition camera JVC for iMovie is that possible?

GZ-HD7U JVC is my digital HDD camcoder. I can import video by firewire cable?
When it does, does not appear any image. This camera is not on the list of cameras compatible with iMovie, but is recognized by the program. In spite of achieving import the recorded files in the camera for Mac by USB port, open in quick time and export in DV for iMovie for editing, but I would like to write directly into the Mac by firewire port, but I can not. The program does not read any image by firewire. Someone could help?

Hello again,
I apologize for not checking the spelling.
Anyway, just looking for any advice to make a High Definition Photo Slide Show. I will buy more software if I have to. However, I cannot see that Final Cut will let me do this either.
Merry Christmas Everyone.
Craig
I have a nice collection of professional quality photos. These 8 megapixel images and are 2000 line plus resolution. When I use these for a screen saver on my iBook the detail is fantastic.
I have made a nice DVD using iMovie and iDVD. It looks pretty good. But the resolution is not that high. I understand that iMovie reduces the resolution on slideshows since it know the photos will be shown on a TV.
I have tried making the same DVD from the beginning using the 720p and 1080i settings in iMovie and then import into iDVD.
The final DVD is recognized by the high end DVD player as a 1080i format. However, the slideshow look not better than standard resolution. And I have tried all the various TV connectors (component, composite, HDMI, DVI, coaxial, etc). No difference.
I would appreciate any input.
Do I need to buy Final Cut Express to get a true 1280 line photo slideshow.
Thank you in advance.
Craig Bergh
Worthington, MN 56187

Which cable do I need to connect my Mac Book Pro to my Panasonic PV-GS150 video camera for transferring video to iMovie?

which cable do I need to connect my Mac Book Pro to my Panasonic PV-GS150 video camera for transferring video to iMovie?

I totally understand.
Check some things from here, I have 2 and they have been great so far.
Check here, lots of storage and reasonable prices. Also great support, you get to speak to a person
Clean off your on the G5 drive and off you go.
I suggest buying a second drive and setting it up for a back up, Time Machine or Carbon Copy Cloner, or SuperDuper (both "bootable" back up) All searchable on the web.
http://eshop.macsales.com/search/elite+pro
You can talk to a person for REAL advice, Phone: 800.275.4576 Ask about exporting to your G5 and and exporting to your existing OSX, you may only need a small inexpensive drive for this.
Quick delivery and willing to help.
Hope this makes you back up and running :-)
Do get a back up drive, as it is not ""whether my drive will fail, as much as "when my drive fails"
All the best

I use my camera for video and photos. When I download my videos to my ipad1 using the camera connection kit, they will not play on my ipad. Is there a way I can get them to play?

I use my camera for video and photos. When I download my videos to my ipad1 using the camera connection kit, they will not play.
Does anyone know how I can make this work?

Yvonne-
I haven't tried videos on my camera yet. Do you use the Videos App to play them? I don't think they will play in the Photos App.
If yours are in a format that is not in Vazandrew's list, you may need to sync them to your computer and convert them to M4V or MP4 format. You can use a program like HandBrake to do the conversion. <HandBrake> Once converted, you can sync them back to the iPad and they should play.
This may not meet your needs, but the alternative appears to be getting a different camera. I don't know of another Video App that might work.
Fred

Question on workflow for high end inkjet prints from InDesign CS4

Photographs are imaged in Photoshop using Adobe 1998 as a profile. These files are linked in InDesign. My question is how should I output the files from InDesign. I've tried "High Quality Print" saving the files as a PDF then parsing those files with Photoshop as high res files. But the files lack the quality in the original photoshop files.
My system in completely calibrated and I'm quite used to creating output for both offset printing (generally as per vendors instructions) as well us highend digital printing.
Thanks ahead for your comments.

You need an ICC profile that defines the destination color space. In this case the high end ink jet.
This will be an RGB profile. You can use a factory profile corresponding to the printer model and paper (this would be part of the printer software install), or you can have a custom profile generated by reading a color target printed on the device. There are online services that can actually create the profile if you send them a print out. Follow their specific instructions if you choose to do this.
Once you have the print device ICC, check the Color Settings in ID. Make sure the RGB policy is "Preserve Embedded". As long as this was the setting at document creation, the image Adobe RGB profiles were honored.
To double check, look in the Links panel. Under ICC you should see Adobe RGB, not Document RGB.
You can also right or control click on an individual image. Go to Graphics: Image Color Settings. By profile it should say Adobe RGB, not Document RGB.
In the print dialog, Color Management, select Document radio button. Color Handling, Let InDesign Handle Colors. Printer Profile, select the Printer ICC. Do a small test print, then check the result to see if it's satisfactory.

I cannot connect a Sony ILCE6000 camera for wireless downloading. Sony feels I need DLNE? They do not know how to make it work. Can anyone help OS10·9·5

I cannot connect a Sony ILCE6000 camera for wireless downloading. Sony feels I need DLNE? They do not know how to make it work. Can anyone help OS10·9·5

I cannot use the software.. so you need to figure out where the problem is..
But let me suggest.. the Mac is not the issue and likely the info from Sony is also up the creek.. they make PC's after all.
It is far more likely the camera is having issues with the wireless network.
Do you know you have a connection to the home network on the camera.. ?? You have an IP address and some internet or local access at least?
How you will discover those things is by fiddling.. but if you can tell me what wireless AP you are using that will help.

How can I change my Camera resolution from very high to lower for email use.

How can I change my Iphone 4-8gb Camera resolution from very high to lower for emailing? it is now 26-- x 19-- approx..

Are both of your Apple routers configured for an extended or roaming network?

Higher end camera for Connect?

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for