How to achieve an old film look?

Hello guys,
is there any other, better way of achieving the old vintage film look in FCP, beside that useless, unrealistic FILM NOISE FILTER located in OPTION SETTINGS within QUICK TIME CONVERSION EXPORT?
Thank you for any advise.

There are several articles here: http://www.kenstone.net/fcphomepage/fcp_homepageindex.html
Use this freebie for a quick solution: http://www.cgm-online.com/eiperle/cgmaged_film_lee.html

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How many frames should I cut out each second to get a old film look?

Hi,
What is the general rule of thumb (if their is one) of how many frames should be cut every second to achieve a choppy old film look? Or maybe it's not every second? What do you guys do?

you will get a more realistic look if you chop out frames manually
dump the playhead arbitrarily on the time line insert a cut nudge the playhead either i or 2 frames on and cut again discard the frames and either leave the black or butt the clips up for a "skip".
this really doesn't take long to do and is better than a predetermined sequence of chops made by a filter.
CGM do a free filter for aged film to add the hairs, navel lint, boogers etc . .

Mixing Frame Rates and Creating Old Film Look?

Hello, I'm working with AVCHD footage which is 59.94 fps and have made my sequence settings at this frame rate. I've dragged in a few clips 23.98fps, 24fps, 25fps and 29.97fps, I'm attempting to give it a old film look so was going to render out at 14 fps as this is what 8mm is filmed at, I've never worked with mixed rates so any advice as to whether this is going to work? Should I have my sequence setting at my highest frame rate and the majority of the video is 59.94fps? would it work exporting at 14 or 16 fps?

I've never worked with mixed frame rates, but for the old film look, I like the Posterize Time effect set to 18 (one of the two standards for Super 8 that my camera had) and use Magic Bullet Misfire.

Settings for old film look

I'm new here and need some help, or I mean lots of help. I am sure these are simple but....
1) I have a Canon XHA1S and Adobe Premiere CS4 and need to know how to get the lines effect in the film to make it look old and scratched?
2) How do I get the old yellowed look from the color correction, right? Or do I need a filter?
3) One last question, How do I get black and white if i wanted?
Thanks and appreciate your time.

Digieffects has been coming out with some sweet, very cheap moduals based on plug-ins they bought from Buena Software and Walker FX.
Camera Mapper is amazing, it makes camera projection a snap (even better than PS's Vanishing point). You could build amazing 3d Matte Paintings and backgrounds with it.
The equally amazing photoreal Falloff Lighting fills a huge gap in AE's light/3d system. Having the option for inverse/square (in plain english: it gives you option to make AE's light actually work like a real light does). A bargain at 50 bucks.

Vintage Film look

Hi
I'm trying to get an old vintage film look to my footage. Faded colours, scratches that sort of thing. Does anyone know of a filter thats available (to buy or free) or is there a way of doing within FCP?
Many Thanks
Adrian

Hi there
I'm also looking to achieve the 'old film' look and downloaded the plugin you suggested. But FCP came up with "File Error - Wrong Type". Could you help me with this?
Thanks!

How do I make the picture look grainy?

I want to go for an old film look. Specifically, a grainy effect if possible. How would I do that?
Thanks for your help!

Search is your friend:
http://discussions.apple.com/search.jspa?objID=f939&search=Go&q=oldfilmgrain
Patrick

Creating appearance of old film?

Is there a free plugin out there for creating the look of old film?
Thanks.

There is this thing called Google. And if you type in search terms it produces all sorts of wonderful links.
For example, when I typed in old film look , there were hundreds of useful sites and articles found.
And, if I use the search function in the FCP forum, I can even find all the threads on this topic that dozens of other posters have already asked.
Searching is an amazing resource.
x

How do I make 29.97fps look like film?

Sorry for the novice questions, but all of my footage has been shot on a relatively inexpensive camcorder which records at 29.97fps. Is there any easy way to make it look like a 24fps film when I play it back on my NTSC television?
I am relatively new to FCP but I have started learning compressor and I also heard about a program called 'Nattress?"
Any help would be appreciated!!!
-Brian

There have been endless discussion and tutorials on how to make 29.97 look like film, so I would also check Google. One of the more commonly known plugins that will do this is called Magic Bullet. But be aware, there is only so much that can be done with DV footage shot on a relatively inexpensive camcorder (I'm assuming DV). Most "film effects" plugins will provide you with a nice number of presets that will soften your image, simulate pulldown, add grain, and do some heavy color correction. But they can't invent pixel data that isn't there to begin with.
What really makes shooting on film so unique and eye catching is that if you can afford to work with it, chances are you can also afford high quality lenses and professional lighting. Things like motion blur, grain, lack of color sampling and a high dynamic range are what give film a unique look. Personally, I think getting a true "film look" for DV is a bit of an impossibility, but people have done some nice stuff with these plugins. Unfortunetly, until the really high end video formats make it into our Handycams, I think we're stuck with simulating the effects, rather than duplicating them.

How to get this kind of film look?!

How to get the film look like in this video:
I shoot on the canon 60d with multiple lenses.
Thanks.

Thanks for the answers, finally I've got the result. May be it'll be useful for other people:
So i've used one popular magic plugin for adjusting look with default presets and lowered fps with default effect "Posterize time".
Good luck

How to remove old film light flicker from clip

hello
     i am worling on a clip that someone scanned in from an old film, this has a light flicker look as in old film, is there a way to reduce the flicker .
                                                                                                                                                                                    thanks for any help
                                                                                                                                                                                           andy

Try using Auto Color and adjust the temporal smoothing as needed.
-Pete

Being brand new to FCX I want to purchase Motion5 so as I am able to add a motion template to the start of a video. Can someone please explain in simple terms how I go about this. Looked at tutorials

Being brand new to FCPX and Motion 5 I want to use a motions template I have bought for a wedding DVD I have shot, so as to place the introductory template at the start of my film. I have looked at tutorials and cant seem to see anything that tells me simply how to achieve this. Do I edit my film as normal in FCPX and then transfer to Motion to add the motion template or visa versa ?? I need a simple answer as I am far from an expert. Can anyone help please.

what do you mean by 'motion template'?
as you notice on launch of M5, it offers you different project types.
when you select 'title', the minute you save it, it's avail on next launch of FCPX in the title-browser.
same with effects.
if you like to use M5 for producing a short segment (eg, I created my 'openers' with it, some animation of our soccer-team's logo, the first 4sec in this video), you simply export the final project as a Quicktime-file and add it to some Event in FCPX for future use ...

Creating a film look in Final Cut Pro 3

I have finished editing my short in and some of the images are too harsh; please advise me on how I can get a more film like look. I shot the short on a Sony PD-150 and edited it on Final Cut Pro 3 using a G4 and running OS X. 2.6
A friend suggested using a filter like Magic Bullet, which doesn't work on OS X. 2.6. Someone else suggested rendering it in 30 frames per second but don't know how to do that in FCP.
G4 Mac OS X (10.2.x)

You're not going to be able to make magic happen with DV footage on final cut 3. Film has a generally softer and murkier look than video, so try bringing down the harsher higlights and desaturing colors somewhat. You're just going to have to play arround with the the filters and color corrector, and eyeball it on a broadcast monitor.
As far as frame rate is concerned, there's nothing you can do. DV is 29.97fps, film is 24fps. Simply changing the framerate (especially to 30) won't make it look more film like. 24 fps pulldown needs to happen in camera to achieve such an effect.
If you're interested in something like Magic Bullet (which you'll have far better luck with), you'll have to find someone who has it.
Honestly, my advice would be to worry about your film looking good more than worry about your film looking like film.

Why can't my HD to SD SHORT film look good? Best Encode?

I have a 12 minute short film on HDV. I imported it to FCP5 and then DVDSP4 and created an HD-DVD and it looked GREAT. Then I found out my computer is pretty much the only DVD player that can play the HD-DVD I had created. Thus began my journey to make a decent SD-DVD, and so far I am not even close...
HERE'S WHAT I'M DOING:
1. I used FCP to downconvert from HDV to DV (I don't have access to the camera to use it downconvert option). I'm sure this step is where the quality drops at least 4 generations!
2. DVDSP5 > Preferences > Mode: Two Pass VBR, Bit Rate: 5.5, Max Bit Rate: 8.5, Motion Est: Best
IMAGE PROBLEM:
Lots of pixelation in darker areas of the screen. Places i could see in HD are now just black and pixelated black at that.
TWO QUESTION:
1. My main annoyance is this: When I burn the DVD, it only burns about 20% of the DVD (HD-DVD would use 60%). I have the space on my DVD-R, why can't I utilize this space and burn 90% of this space with data to make my film look good?
2. iDVD did a better job of making the SD DVD look good. So I know there is something i could do. I've never used Compressor. How can I encode my HDV for use in SD DVD environement in DVDSP5?
Any help will be much appreciated... I hope answers to these questions helps others as well...
Best,
AJ

AJ -
Thanks for your reply -I hope i can clarify below.
Yes i have been editing the sequences using native HDV 1080i.
When comparing the output of the converted formats here is what i did.
I have a Sony a HC1 HDV Camcorder. I captured and edited all clips with native HDV. Then i recorded back the HDV material back into the camera (HUGE issues with doing this in FCP - but ill leave that to another thread)
From there i did two things
1) I sent the native HDV Final Cut sequence to compressor and set it to DVD, 90Min, Best quality, 2pass VBR. I burned a DVD with DVDSP4 with this encoded sequence
2) i played back the HDV Sequence from my sony camcorder back into the television directly - but using the composite video output (not using the high definition component output).
3) I set my Sony HDV cam to output via firewire as standard DV (eg - i let the camera do its own HDV to DV downconvert). from there i recaptured back into FCP, compressed with the same compressor settings, and sent to DVDSP4
I compared side by side the content from all three options. Hands down Options 2 and 3 looked MUCH better than option 1.
Here is what i noticed
1) A lot of motion artifacts with option 1. This especially when the camera pans and moves. I think this has to do with the way interlacing during downconversion happens. If i run the FCP sequence through a de-interlace filter it actually does come out better - though not as smooth since you are loosing 1/2 the frames.
2) A lot of digital artifacts. pixellation and such like. It looks almost like one of those old VCDs in terms of image quality.
I had searched the forums and found that many other people are having the same problems - so i know that i am not alone on this one (unfortunately). I do find it frustrating that a very expensive >$1000 application suite which claims to support HD has so many issues with editing in HD (this is just one of the issues.. others are that you cannot reliably export HDV back to tape, there are issues with editing multi-cam with HDV with more than 3 sequences... etc..).

I know.. not another film look question, but here is goes...

Hi all i hope you can help me here.
Im used to doing safety, corporate, induction videos so Ive never been interested in getting the "film look" But now Ive got a music video to do and i really don't want it to look interlaced.
Now i did some test on my HVX200 25p, and read up on it a little. Which brought me to my question.
I know that when shooting with real film cameras AND HD 25p cameras there is the rule not to pan very fast because it becomes jittery. But when i did my tests outside with my HVX200 25p PAL on a tripod (no panning) my footage seem a whole lot more jittery that film movies i see on tv. Its so jittery i cant use the footage! im to scared to do the music video on 25p.
So now i want to know, am i doing something wrong? Is the shutter speed or the way you capture in FCP got anything to do with the jittery? Or is 25p just that jittery?
Another question. Does anybody have some tips to get a better look and feel to my music video? plug ins? or whatever?
Thanks so much for your replies.
Andre Meyer

Hi Meyer,
The reason I said your video still looks jittery is because you have not graded or used any additional adaptors on your cam. Turning on a progressive shutter alone will just make your VIDEO look like 24/25P video! The movement is greatly exaggerated! The point I was trying to make is that once you have graded your footage and if you are lucky enough to use a 35mm adaptor, much of that jitteriness (if that’s a word?!) will not be so noticeable. Remember, if it goes away completely, you are back to square one almost! Its about how acceptable you can get with the 3 components I was talking about in my previous post.
I dont own an HVX200, but I have a V1E (not as good as the HVX200) and I find the cinema Gamma not that great as a default.. I have to tweak it quite a lot to achieve the all important contrast and saturated colours. As for your HVX, just have a play until u get a look u like. The Cinema Gammas on the Cheaper Canons are dreadful and make the cam lose all their contrast! I guess this varies a lot with the mid-priced prosumer cams?!
You don’t need to own a 5D MkII (an ergonomic disaster in my opinion unless u have the full rail kit!) to have that 35mm DOF control. There are quite a few 35mm adaptors out there that have attachments for many types of video cameras. There are users in this forum I think that use these types of adaptors with the HVX200’s. However, such equipment is not cheap.. and of course a good quality stills lens’s are not exactly cheap either!
So to summarise:
1. Use a progressive frame rate 24/25P
2. Colour Grade to film... Best bet is to use Apple Colour... this is a really good colour corrector which has various preset that’s you can tweak and work pretty good as the film look. Of course you will need to experiment to get the effect u want. Alternatively, you can use Magic Bullet Looks.. which can be use used as a Plug-in to FCP, and is like Apple Colour on Steroids! It doesn’t offer the same amount of control as Color, but has some really interesting presets that can be easily tweaked.. and the good things is, this is all done without leaving FCP.. so its quick.
3. If you want to go the whole way and go for a 35mm adaptor.. then do your home work. Do you currently own a select of still lenses? Canon L series or Nikon Pro series? Of course u don’t need the pro lenses, but in this set up the quality of your stills lens becomes really critical! Take a look on YouTube and see the effect these adapter give, they can be quite amazing! Be prepared to spend over £2500 for the adaptor alone!
4. And of course, remember technique when shooting like this.. these adaptors do stop down your camera, you will probably have less light to play with. When u r tracking etc, DOF is really critical and can be difficult to master at first.
I don’t have any 35mm adapter, i try to achieve the film look by using steps 1 and 2..the result, well... its ok but often means I have to mess about with camera distances sometimes to achieve a decent DOF. Swings a roundabouts!

HOW TO GET THIS STOP MOTION LOOK

TRYING TO FIND OUT HOW TO GET THIS STOP MOTION LOOK. IS IT DONE WITH EDITS OR PLUGIN
EXAPLE AT THIS SITE
http://www.brothersstrause.com/vide...h.php?work_id=1

I think a lot of that was achieved in camera by manipulating frame rates and so forth.
Also it looked like some of the awkward jerkiness was achieved by filming the talent actually moving backwads and then reversing it in post. I saw a behind the scenes for a movie that used that technique to get that look. I think it was the grudge or the ring.

How to achieve an old film look?

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