How to flash MSI X58 Platinum to 1.1 since its a 4MB image and too big for 1.44?

Guys
I do not have a floppy drive, and have been using a 4GB flash disk that has a DOS 6.0 image on it that I downloaded from allbootdisks.
This image is only 1.4MB so I dont have enough room for the 4MB 1.1 Bios update for my X58 Platinum.
I spent 3 hours trying to figure out a way to do this, to no avail - and I hear the M-Flash is broken on 1.0.
Unfortunately I cant access my CD-ROM either to try and load the flash from there once booted.
Does anyone know how I can flash to 1.1? Am I missing something?
Thanks a lot!

well you should have plenty of room if its 4GB and youve only used 1.4mb
this should help you https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=108079.0
and this https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=116721.0

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MSI X58 PLATINUM, the latest bios and how to enable turbo boost

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My bad. The obvious lack of your self research got the better of me. I do not take helping, if I can, lightly. This is new technology, & a lot of expertise is in short supply. I downloaded the manual on this board & read the bios section, & in CMOS Setup, you should find an "Enable" setting for Turbo Boost. If you don't, please contact MSI Tech Staff @ http://ocss.msi.com.tw Also, (in your manual), is a reference under "Intel Turbo Boost Tech", which clearly states "for further information please refer to Intel's official website". By your original post, CPU-Z says it's an SLI? What did you buy? Does it say on the retail box? At MSI's website, the X58 Platinum (not the SLI), has version 1.0 bios offered in three global region zip files. M7522v1.0 Euro.zip, M7522v1.0 ASIA.zip, & E7522v1.0.zip. J.T.N. is correct, the SLI board takes something else. Are both boards bios's compatable? I have no idea. Recommend step one as to confirm with MSI what board you truly have & go from there.

Problem with MSI X58 Platinum SLI - IOH temperature !

Hi guys.
I have this PC configuration:
- MSI X58 Platinum SLI ( Bios Version 3.8 - http://img822.imageshack.us/img822/6707/161020101249.jpg )
- Intel Core i7 930 2.80 GHz box ( with Intel Turbo Boost running sometimes at 3.06 Ghz )
- MSI GeForce GT240 1GB DDR5 128-bit HDMI
- Corsair 6GB DDR3 1333MHz CL9 XMS3 Triple Channel Kit ( sets to AUTO and running at 1066 Mhz )
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- Ordinary case ( http://img828.imageshack.us/img828/4200/161020101246.jpg & http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/8480/161020101247.jpg ).
- Windows 7 Ultimate 64 bit.
I bought my PC components 2 months ago, so they are new.
Now, guys I think that is a problem with my motherboard. When I turn on the computer in Bios I have this temps: CPU – 30 C (86 F); IOH – 71 C (159 F); System 30 C (86 F) - http://img687.imageshack.us/img687/394/161020101242.jpg. After 2 minutes the temperatures are: CPU – 34 C (93 F); IOH – 82 C (179 F); System 41 C (105 F) and 2 more minutes later the temperatures are: CPU – 34 C (93 F); IOH – 84 C (183 F); System 43 C (109 F). After 30 minutes of doing nothing I have this temps: CPU – 35 C (95 F); IOH – 85 C (185 F); System 42 C (107 F) -
Guys it is normal with IOH temperature ? I am a little worried about it ( to be honest I am more than “a little” … I am worried a lot ).
Ok, I know I don’t have a good case but in 3 weeks I should receive this Thermaltake Spedo Advance Case (http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/Product.aspx?C=1121&ID=1829) and I will buy a new CPU cooler ( I don’t know yet wich one – maybe Corsair CWCH70 or Noctua NH-D14 but I have to see the case first … to be sure there is a plenty of space for those coolers ).
Pls help me with that IOH temperature. It is normal ? What if I intend to make a little OC ( lets say CPU to 3652 Mhz and RAM to 1333 Mhz … but also I will ask for your support ! ) my motherboard will burn ?
If it is necessary I will contact my retailer and send him back the motherboard but … I like MSI a lot.
Thx guys for your support !

Hey guys,
Here is a nice cheap alternative.
Here is my story about the same issue. I found it after looking at why my computer freezes sometimes. Not very often but enough for me to do some investigation. I noticed my IOH temp was a whopping 117 degrees Celsius. lol. Surprised my mobo didn't burn out by now. I wanted to evaluate the situation with the heat sink and decided to take it off. After taking it off I found extremely crusty purple compound on board the chipset and the heatsink. I took me FOREVER to scrape it off. it was almost like a cement which I found odd. After scraping and cleaning the surfaces with alcohol, I placed some silver compound on and proceeded to put it back on.
Well, upon hooking everything back up I was still at 95 to 103 degs. Now I started to really look at the options to replace this. I had SLI config which means I had to do something clever with the southbridge as well. A nice thermaltake chipset solution w/fan and a low profile copper southbridge with shipping was about 45 bucks. Hmm ... This is a sure fix from the threads I have read and its really kid of expensive to fix a simple defect. the problem is not necessarily with the heatsink not being sufficient. Its the combo of the compound used vs the amount of pressure applied between the heatsink and chipset. It was completely unacceptable. I knew this right away when I was watching the temp and then I would press on the top of the IOH heatsink and I would watch it drop another 15 degrees in less then 10 seconds. The springs are extremely weak and not effective at all in transferring the heat from the NB.
Here if my fix. Cost me less than a dollar at the hardware store and it works ideal thus far. Do this at your own risk. Doing this will probably void any warranty too. All my problems are solved and I am running at 57 degrees, YES, 57 degrees with the stock heatsink and no additional cooling.
For one scrape all that old crap off like I did. Apply your new compound. But when you go to replace your heatsink, use the following method. The trick is to use metal screws with a mobo washer, original springs from the plastic studs and a nylon locknut. Use screws that are the same diameter and length (maybe a tad bit longer) as the plastic retainer studs. Also grab a few of those red nylon mobo washers too, were gonna need them as well.
After scraping and applying compound, reassemble as follows. Screw with washer inserted into the back of the mobo so the threads are out front. The plastic/nylon washer is betweeen the screwhead and the back of the mobo as a insulator. Put the heatsink on. With the threads thru the heatsink already, put the springs on and start spinning on the locknut. I torqued the nut down on the spring until the spring almost became fully compressed. The purpose of the spring here is really to prevent you breaking something and at the same time using the max force of the spring since it weak to begin with. Thats why we need to compress it down pretty much all the way. There will be little to no room in the spring at this point. The heatsink at this point should be pretty solid to the board as well. I noticed with the plastic studs before the heatsink would wobble if you gave it a little rocking back and forth before. Not this time. Shouldn't move much if at all. Remember not to torque down too much. You don't want to go beyond the springs compression. Even if you did by accident, its better then not using a spring at all. If you feel that it starts to feel tight when torquing, you torqued too far. Stop an backup a 1/4 turn or so. It is also very important to make sure both torques are equal on both sides as well. Alternate sides when torquing down. I could tell by how much thread I had left on both sides and by looking for any uneven sides.
To summarize, the compound is a problem no doubt. After you resolve the compound issue, its all about the adequate pressure between the heatsink and the IOH. Much like the amount of pressure needed between your CPU and your heatsink give or take. And the pressure that would be as an aftermarket solution like the thermaltake chipset cooler. You dont see cheesy springs on that. Wake up MSI. Simpy using a more effective spring could save MSI some cash in the long run. I envision a leafsprin design like the thermaltake chipset one. The heatsink design could be better, sure, but the design itself is not the problem. Replace the heatsinks if you would like to, if your overclocking and stuff. Funny, this board I have is a refurb too and only had it for a few weeks. Figured they would have done something about it.
Sorry the pics are not the best. Here is about as close as I could get to the finished product

MSI x58 platinum Problems???

To start off, I am a newb. I have...
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800w PSU
ati 4850 GPU
Vista x64
I have read alot of the overclocking threads for this board.
Kinda seems like I chose the wrong one!! LOL!
I cannot get anything over 3.0GHZ
The max base clock the Mobo will let me do is 151???
I have even tried to manually change the switches on the board to 166 instead of 133..
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Ok, here's my complete configuration:
1) Motherboard: MSI X58 Platinum
2) Processor: i7-920
3) BIOS version: 3.80 (latest version)
4) VGA: Inno3D 8800 GT (512 MB DDR3)
5) Memory: 3 x 2 GB (Corsair DDR3 triple channel)
6) Hard drive: 300GB (Western Digital Velociraptor) + 1TB (Western Digital Caviar Black)
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Doesnt boot Black/Blank screen when a cd-rom is connected - MSI x58 Platinum

i7 920
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Corsair 3x2gb TR3X6G1600C8
OCZ OCZ700MXSP 700W SLI/CrossFire Active PFC
geforce 280gtx
Windows 7 64bit
This is a build working perfectly for over a year.. well one day my mom turned off the computer when I got home it wouldn't boot I disconnected/reseated everything and was able to figure out if I didn't have my dvd drive hooked up it will boot perfectly fine. I should note that the drive shows up fine in the bios and that with a pata hard drive it will load windows fine.
I've tried 2 pata drives and 1 sata drive all working/tested in other machines .. and it stops at the same exact spot every time right after the bios and before the Windows logo would normally pop up it will just sit on a black/blank screen forever. I have never heard of a issue like this where it wasnt the ide channel going bad or the drive itself but since a harddrive on the ide channel works i assume its good.
I didnt know if i should post this in the windows 7 64bit forum or this but im leaning towards motherboard as the issue because it still freezes at same exact spot even with no hard drives connected , so I couldnt boot anything from the dvd-drive. I'm also thinking its the mobo because i had it repaired a year ago, see my old thread here
https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=127312.msg958264#msg958264
Any idea's or suggestion please let me know.

A PSU acting up can cause some strange things to happen. Have you confirmed that the DVD drive is working correctly?
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I couldnt boot anything from the dvd-drive.
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MSI X58 Platinum overclocking

I have not been able to find any thread yet dedicated to the overclocking of the MSI X58 Platinum motherboard. I am having a great deal of difficulties using the v1.1 BIOS. If you have successful settings please post the here. I would expect that this will be a popular mobo because of its price. Thank you

I read this on a neoseeker review of the eclipse. Granted it's a different version of the msi x58 but some of the info might be useful.
Quote
To get to the maximum stable overclock, 4.095GHz, all I had to do was:
* Set the memory multiplier to "3" (actually 6)
* Set memory timing to 7-7-7-20-1T
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Full review here: http://www.neoseeker.com/Articles/Hardware/Reviews/msi_x58_eclipse/
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Ok, here's my complete configuration:
1) Motherboard: MSI X58 Platinum
2) Processor: i7-920
3) BIOS version: 3.80 (latest version)
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Hi guyz,
I write you because i have some problem with my sata harddisk..
-Intel [email protected]
-MSI x58 Platinum 3.4v AMI Bios (updated)
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How to flash MSI X58 Platinum to 1.1 since its a 4MB image and too big for 1.44?

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