I could use your help please!
Hi guys.
my friend just went out and purchased a Linksys Wireless WRT54G Router.
Version 8
i have the same router but version 6 and i do not run it off of a computer.
now i have never set this up with vista but i follow the directions as to setting it up. and everything is done correctly yet i get an error message stating that "easy link advisor does not support this router"
any ideas why?
the router states i have an active internet connection yet when i open my web browser i get a message stating it cannot connect?
yet again when i hook up the modem to the pc the internet works, but when i plug it in to the router it stops working.
Also--------------
he has an xbox 360 that we tried to set up but we recieved an error message relating to the DNS. and i must ensure the wired pc is connected to the internet (which it is but not through the router)
Help? Please and thank you!
Let me know the Internet Service provider details so that i can tell you how to setup your wireless router .......
Similar Messages
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I could use some help please...
hi, i have the linksys wireless-N broadband router and the wireless usb adapter. my goal here is to simply give another desktop internet connection. i have one computer conencted to the internet via cable modem with the router all hooked up already, this desktop is using winxp if that helps. the other desktop is not connected to any internet and is using winvista with the usb adapter plugged in. now how do i send internet connection from one computer to the other!?! please help me and if you could explain with as much detail as possible step by step on how to get my other desktop internet connection i would greatly appreciate it. thanks!
First change the Wireless Settings on the Router...
Open an Internet Explorer browser page.In the address bar type - 192.168.1.1
Leave username blank & in password use admin in lower case...
For Wireless Settings, please do the following : -
Click on the Wireless tab-
-Here select manual configuratioon...Wireless Network mode should be mixed...
-Provide a unique name in the Wireless Network Name (SSID) box in order to differentiate your network from your neighbours network...
- Set the Radio Band to Standard-20MHz and change the standard channel to 11-2.462GHz...
- And wireless SSID broadcast should be Enabled and then click on save settings...
Please make a note of Wireless Network Name (SSID) as this is the Network Identifier...
For Wireless Security : -
Click on the Sub tab under Wireless > Wireless Security...
Change the Wireless security mode to WEP, Encryption should be 64 bits.Leave the passphrase blank, don't type in anything...
Under WEP Key 1 type in any 10 numbers please(numbers only and no letters) and click on save settings...
Please make a note of WEP Key 1 as this is the Security Key for the Wireless Network.Now try if you could see the Wireless Network Name/SSID and try to connect...
Click on Advanced Wireless-
settings>>Change the Beacon Interval to 75 >>Change the Fragmentation...
Threshold to 2304 Change the RTS Threshold to 2307 >>Click on "Save Settings"...
Now install your Wireless Adapter...Once installed go to Control Panel and click on Network and Sharing Center...Then go to Connect to a network...You should see your Network Name/SSID...Select your Network Name/SSID and click connect, it should ask you for a Passwor...Enter the WEP Key1 and click connect, it should connect and you should have Internet Access... -
Working on epic slideshow....really could use some help please
I have combed the manuals, discussion logs etc. but am yet to find a simple answer to my questions. Maybe there are none. My grandparents both passed away in the last month. I am not only archiving my pictures but creating a slideshow using final cut pro 5.1.4. The pictures I have scanned are huge... a total of 180 years of life, hundreds of pictures, all scanned at 600 dpi because some where 2x2. Even then some pictures are 4000 x2800 and 20mb. I have resized them down to about 5mb or so. I have seemed to get rid of flicker and lag associated with such huge file. Still I am having a problem exporting......
There are so many audio/video settings it hard to know where to go. This will be watched by 50 family members and friends, most with HD widescreen Televsisons. When I watch it on my computer it looks exactly how i want it to. When i burn it to iDVD it starts having lag issues when doing mild pans and zooms....the transitions.. fade in fade out, typically...or cross dissolve look "framey" and low quality. In the days of research I've done I can't seem to find proper settings (yes even the manual) on how to set the codecs or whatever they are....It will primarily be watched on 16:9 widescreen I image....but anything from old 4:3 televisons to laptops too. What settings should I use?...Should I reduce all pics to minimal size? Why do my transitions look so low res...? If anyone has any insight, please help. I don't know the difference in 1080i50 or 1080i 60...I have heard NTSC is not the way to go for a slideshow.....please help. How should I resize, how should I export, what am I doing wrong? It looks great for the most part on my on MacBook Pro 2.5ghz 2g ram 15 inch laptop....why cant i get it to translate on the televison?
I know parts of this question(s) have been discussed and appreciate anytime in helping me grasp what I am missing. This is so very important to me...also Livetype was a disaster... looked liked graphics from a 1982 sci-fi movie...sigh....I have done this before with success, but not in about 5 years. Technology and HD era have surpassed me although some of my questions ares still basic.
Thanks in advance,
Tony
MacBook Pro 2.5ghz 2g ram Please help with FCP 5 slideshow technical difficultiesYes I considered using iMovie or iPhoto because of the size of this project but had little or no control over motion. Despite my obvious lack of knowledge I know my way around FCP to the extent I've needed it.
Perhaps I have been over thinking/researching everything because this project means so much to me.
I just wanted to make sure I imported my media correctly (scanned tiffs and music only) and export it with the proper settings so that it looks as professional as possible and nobody has a problem playing it.
I have had success with several slideshows before, as well as fun DV videos of the kids. Without motion, no problem. With motion, just a few minor bugs (flickering) but was very happy with the end result. The difference then I suppose is that was using all digital pics from (at the time) a 3 megapixel camera. Not huge files, not scanned images. I used NTSC then but read in a forum somewhere that that was a quick way to degrade your production. I feel like I'm close. If it looks like I want it to on my computer I can't be that far off, right?
I appreciate the info on DVD's needing to be NTSC compatible. Maybe I should just go back to the standard NTSC format. Are all the other audio/video settings simply for uploading to the web and so forth? Is there a NTSC setting that you would recommend that is better for todays standard widescreen television? I do want the final show to be in widescreen.
Thanks David,
Tony -
I could use some help please. newbie!
I am trying to take a logo a made and make it spin around the screen, like a screen saver, is the best way i can explain it. then id like to save it as a .svp or a gif file. could some one please lend me a hand and explain to me how to do this.
thank you RalphYou can do that in PRE. Put your background movie on Video1 and the spinning logo on Video2. That's pretty much it provided the logo has a transparent background.
If it doesn't have a transparent background (e.g. a solid colour) when you add it to the timeline you should be prompted to apply videomerge. If you don't get the prompt, open the properties for the clip and apply the VideoMerge effect to the clip and use the eyedropper tool to select the background colour.
Cheers,
Neale
Insanity is hereditary, you get it from your children -
Going a little crazy - Could use some help please
Okay...Ive been reading about this all morning and I'm a little stumped and hoping for some fresh ideas. I'm on a Windows 7 64 bit system. It had Premiere Elements 7, but now has 10. I have a Canon HV20 HD camcorder. I used this camcorder about 6 months ago to import some video into Premiere 7, and everything worked swimingly. Import was via Firewire. Recently, I got back from a trip and was disturbed to find out I could no longer import video. On PE7 I was getting a C+++ error and being bounced out. Since I was on an old version I splurged and bought 10. Now it doesnt error out, but I can't capture content. I can control the camcorder, but when I go to capture I get garbled audio and just some flashes of pixelizaiton on an otherwise black screen. Content looks fine on the camcorder, but doesn't get capture. The video files created look indentical to the capture preview with garbled audio and some pixelization across the top of the screen. I've updated Firewire drivers, rolled firewire drivers back, updated Quicktime, video drivers...checked the modes for the camcorder and nothing seems to work. Any ideas? Thanks!
Thanks for the note Steve. I should have mentioned that I did try that, to no avail. I just finished trying some things on 3 seperate computers. First, I downloaded the free version of Vegas and noticed the same results. I then moved the firewire card to my son's computer. His is also Win7 64 bit. I made the move based on the assumption that it was something in my PC. This move resulted in similar results. Then, reading Bill's trick and noticing it referenced Win7 64 I moved the firewire card to my wife's win7 32 bit machine. Same results. On all 3 I tried Vegas, HDVSplit and Premiere. All let me control the camcorder, but dont actually show the video. I'm starting to think my firewire cable or card are shot. Does that seem at all likely? I'm not a heavy firewire users, so I'm not sure if thats likely. I'd hate to run buy stuff if I'm on a goose chase.
Thanks all. -
Hi, my iphone its in recovery mode and when i restore my iphone 5s loading show the blue screen and show note on itunes (unknown error 14) please i need your help please . thanks
In the article Resolve iOS update and restore errors this is what it says about error 14:
Check your USB connections
Related errors: 13, 14, 1600, 1601, 1602, 1603, 1604, 1611, 1643-1650, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2005, 2006, 2009, 4005, 4013, 4014, or “invalid response."
If the USB connection between your device and computer is interrupted, you may be unable to update or restore.
To narrow down the issue, you can also change up your hardware:
Use the USB cable that came with your device, or a different Apple USB cable.
Plug your cable into a different USB port directly on your computer. Don't plug it into your keyboard.
Try a different computer.
If necessary, resolve any further issues with the USB connection, then with your security software.
If you're still seeing the error message, check for hardware issues by following the next section. -
I need your help, PLEASE. How can to fix "NO MOUNTABLE FILE SYSTEM" error of my back up hard drive on Mountain Lion OS?
Did you format the drive for Mac use before you tried to use it as a backup drive?
Are you using Time Machine on the drive? You can't view the contents of its backup database and the only way to access the info is directly from the Time Machine app. -
Could use some help on positioning images
With help here, I'm making my way through ID novice to ID "dangerous". I sorta get layout and sorta get styling and now could use some help with sizing and positioning images.
The test is a 3-column newspaper that I let ID size when the document was created. All the text frames are linked. I now want to put some images on the pages and have the text wrap. I sorta understand wrapping and anchoring, the question is sizing.
Am I on the right path to start thinking that images often need to be sized to a column width or two (plus gutter)? If so, do I size images based on the frame size? For example, the columns show as 3.2222in and the gutter as .1667. Does that mean I want to set the image width to 3.2887 or are things just not that accurate? What are the best practices?
One related question on wrapping: it seems like anchoring the image allows wrapping around only one frame of text but not the other if the image spans two text columns. How do you place and image so that it wraps text in more than one column?
Also, do people make the image smaller than the frame to put a border in when wrapping text?
Thanks
TomAre you asking about image size as it is saved, or as placed on the page?
With older RIPS it was common to want to save images at the correct dimensions so when placed at 100% they would have the correct resolution. This was to reduce processing time. Today that is less of an issue and it is not at all unusual to scale images in the InDesign layout. (I'm talking raster here -- vector objects can be scaled almost infinitely.)
So, what is the correct size? There are a number of rules of thumb, but the basic one is that images should be placed so that the resolution, at the size they will be printed, is twice the value of the linescreen being used. Anything in the range of 1.5 to 2.5 is probably acceptable, and I know people who routinely send images at 1.4 times the linescreen.
For coated papers and reasonably good reproduction, 150 lpi is not unusual, with 200 lpi for fine art books, so you get the common suggestion that images should be 300 ppi. Newspaper printing is usually accomplished on fairly porous stock at much lower screen frequencies -- 80 to 100 lpi -- so you need considerably less image resolution.
How do you know what the resolution is at the size you've place the image? Look at the info panel with an image selected. You'll see too numbers, an "actual" ppi and an "effective" ppi. The actual number is simply the resolution recorded with the image at its dimensions when it was saved (and digital cameras often save images 20 inches or so wide at 72 ppi) and is basically irrelevant. The effective ppi is the one that matters. If it's too small, either reduce the size of the image on the page, or be prepared to live with less than stellar reproduction. If it's grossly over the requirement it usually won't hurt except for some increased processing time, but the extra image data won't improve things as it gets discarded by the RIP.
It's usually OK to downsample an image in Photoshop, though you will sometimes lose fine detail or subtlety in shading, but you'd probably lose the same things through scaling in ID. Upsampling never helps.
I presume you know that you can place graphical objects in several ways, either into an existing frame, at full size (whatever that happens to be and at the "actual" resolution) by clicking the loaded cursor on an empty spot on the page, or you can click and drag a new frame the size you want. When an image is first placed it will always be "actual size" unless some scaling factor has been applied to the frame in advance, so you may not see the entire image. You then have several fitting options available to either make the frame fit the image or the image fit the frame (and in newspaper work you pretty much only want to fit to or fill the frame proportionally).
I personally like keeping the images snapped to the column grid, but it's by no means an iron-clad rule. You want to avoid situations, though, where an image impinges on a column to the point that the remaining text is unworkably narrow.
I don't know why you are using anchored frames for your images (text wrap only affects text in the frame after the anchor point). It's not likely in a newspaper that you would want the pictures to move on the page if you edit the text. You can group the image, caption and story, if you like, so that they all stay together if you need to re-arrange the page or move them to a new location.
I don't know if I answered your question. Feel free to come back for clarification.
Peter -
i have a ipod touch 4th gen and i have the wifi bars but when i try to search something it wont let me conect it says "Lightspeed systems - Wed acces" what could i do help please.! o.o
Does the iOS device connect to other networks?
Does the iOS device see the network?
Any error messages?
Do other devices now connect?
Did the iOS device connect before?
Try the following to rule out a software problem:
- Reset the iOS device. Nothing will be lost
Reset iOS device: Hold down the On/Off button and the Home button at the same time for at
least ten seconds, until the Apple logo appears.
- Power off and then back on your router
.- Reset network settings: Settings>General>Reset>Reset Network Settings
- iOS: Troubleshooting Wi-Fi networks and connections
- Wi-Fi: Unable to connect to an 802.11n Wi-Fi network
- iOS: Recommended settings for Wi-Fi routers and access points
- Restore from backup. See:
iOS: How to back up
- Restore to factory settings/new iOS device.
If still problem make an appointment at the Genius Bar of an Apple store since it appears you have a hardware problem.
Apple Retail Store - Genius Bar -
Hey, i bought an iphone from online shop as a used phone and its locked by orange france, i contact them to unlock it but they refused, they said that we regret to inform you that we'r not able to unlock second hand phones? I need your help please. Its not fair , apple should figure it out
Regards,
OrangeThis is no different with any carrier locked phone. Getting a carrier locked phone officially unlocked is the responsibility of the carrier, not the cell phone manufacturer. A cell phone manufacture cannot unlock a carrier locked phone without the carrier's authorization.
An iPhone sold as officially unlocked when new can be used by others as a second hand phone, and the same with any carrier locked iPhone that can be unlocked by the carrier, and many carriers offer it. -
How i fix and software update i was tried but cant i need your help please and thanks.
"but cant"
That doesnt tell us anything useful. You need to post EXACTLY what you did and EXACTLY what happened, including any error messages. -
Showing no music on IPOD but it says 21 gb used. Help please!
I went to play some music on my 32gb ipod touch today and when I pushed the music button it says there are no songs on my ipod. So I went into setting and it also says there are no songs but then it says there are 7gb empty space left and I know there is over 20gb of music that I put on there. What happened and how do I fix it? The only thing I did differently when I put the last songs on my ipod was that I just took out the cable instead of ejecting it.
I need your help please. I'm going away for the weekend this afternoon and need some tunes in the car.Hey jacobc4,
It sounds like the data on the iPod touch is corrupt. iTunes may have been syncing the iPod when you disconnected.
Try resetting the iPod.
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=305743
If that does not work you'll need to restore the iPod.
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=305744
Jason -
powerpoint presentation I have stored in icloud until recently were syncing to Keynote on my iPad with no problem. Now when I open Keynote on my iPad there is nothing. I could use some help with this problem.
Morning AndreD86,
Thanks for using Apple Support Communities.
These articles explain exactly what is backed up by using their method.
iTunes: About iOS backups
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht4946
and
iCloud: Backup and restore overview
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht4859
Also we want to double-click the Home button and swipe the Task Bar to the right.
Then make sure the button on the far left of Task Bar is not muted.
Best of luck,
Mario -
Dear Sir/Madam,
I tried the following but no success:
1. Unplug the sync cable from device.
2. Turned off device (slide to power off).
3. Pressed and hol the Home botton and pluged in the sync cable.
4. Hold Home button until "Connect to iTunes" but this message did not appear
So couldn't go any further than this.
Looking forward for your help please.
Kind regards,
GSiOS: Device disabled after entering wrong passcode
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1212
This is an iPad user to user forum. Apple doesn't read or respond.
Cheers, Tom -
I have two macs, i was able to install mavericks on my 17", i can't do it with my 13" MacAir, I get a drop down box after i login, I could use some help. The drop down box says, unknown error, George
Welcome to the Apple Support Communities
Pages for the iPad and Pages for a Mac are completely different, so you have to purchase them twice, one for the iPad and another one for the Mac. The only advantage is that, if you buy another iPhone, iPod touch or iPad, you will be able to install Pages for free on all of them.
As you are running Mac OS X 10.6.8 on the MacBook, you can't purchase Pages from the App Store, so you have to buy iWork '09 on a DVD on Amazon or eBay in order to install it
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