I need some tips on transfering my LARGE itunes account from a pc external hardrive to time capsule for my new Macbook Air

I just purchased a Macbook Air that is being shipped as I type, What I am trying to do is swap all the info on my external hard drive that was used for my old pc ( includes pictures, music and very Large iTunes account ) to a 2Tb time capsule that I purchased to use to store all my info for the new Macbook Air that is coming, without downloading it to the Macbook Air first. Im not sure if its even possible to do but any help is greatly appreciated. This is my first Mac and I just want to make this transfer smooth and fast. Also looking to make all future purchases from iTunes go directly to time capsule.

i think you will need to use a computer somewhere in the process
you could try putting Mac OS on the hard drive with the files on, and then booting from the hard drive

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Waiting for my new macbook air - doing some research first

Do i have to buy Microsoft Office for Mac in order to transfer my windows files?

What type of files? If you want to use Office files on your MacBook Air, you can purchase Office for Mac, but you can also use iWork or LibreOffice.
If you want to transfer other files, you don't need anything. Just download Windows Migration Assistant on the PC and follow the steps > http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4796

Please I need some tips of video editing.

Hi! My name is Bruno Rauch, i'm brazilian and I need some tips for video editing..
Here below I'm going to put a link of two videos that I had made days ago...And I'm very grateful if you guys could see and tell me some tips to encrease my video quality.
Bubble Gun Treffen 2014 - Águas de Lindóia - SP - YouTube
Trip to San Pedro of Atacama - YouTube
Thanks for your help.

What I can suggest is that you look into using image stabilization. I know that the vehicle bounces around, but if you have the front of the car in the shot, or a mountain range in the distance, the software should be able to stabilize your footage some.
Having said that, I should also point out that there are ways to move more smoothly with your camera. There are devices available to steady the camera, called Steadycam. Here is a link.
B&H Photo Video
If you can't afford a Steadycam, just using a tripod can help. keep it folded up, put the camera on it, pick it up under the head, and it acts as a balancing weight to smooth out the movement.
Using such things will also help you keep the horizon straight (except when the car is turning).
One more thing. Carry a bottle of window cleaner and lots of clean rags.

Help! I transferred the data from my old Macbook pro with some success, but now my new Macbook Air contents think they are the remote disc and that the old Mac Pro is the hard drive. What did I do and how do I fix it?

I transferred the data from my old 2006 MacBook Pro 17". Thanks for the help on that. I thought that I was doing it right. Used a backup hard drive and time machine. Problem: Now my new macbook air thinks it is the old machine and that the remote disc is the mb air. Clicks want to take things to mobile me instead of iCloud, old applications launch instead of the new ones. How do I fix the mess I have made? Like I said before, I am a software user and don't really know what I am doing when I start into the guts of the software, but I am able to learn. Thanks for any help.

iTunes- How to move the library to an EHD
After you move the library you need to open iTunes by first depressing the OPTION key then launching iTunes. You will be given a choice of which library to use. This can then be made a permanent change, if you wish, in the Advanced section of iTunes preferences.

I need step by step instructions on transfering my entire itunes account via flash drive

i need step by step instructions on transfering my entire itunes account and media to another computer via flash drive. i cant figure it out

i copied my itunes folder to a flash drive and imported it into my new pc but when i try to play the songs a window pops up and tells me that it cant be played because it cant locate its origal location. why is this? please help

How best to set up multiple time capsules for multiple needs?

There is so much good information on these discussions about using TCs for extenders or external drives - I am hoping to do both so will ask my own question here. BTW, this is my very first post so please be patient with me if I do not include something important.
I have a 1/2 gen (2007) Airport extreme and a 5th gen (2011) 2 tb TC. I am buying a 6th gen (2013) 3 tb TC because I am getting the new Macbook Air and want to take advantage of the new ac wireless. I have 2 apple TVs and 1 iMac plugged directly into my home ethernet network (if I'm saying that right - they are plugged into the wall). We have iphones, ipads, and an old macbook as well that all plug in wirelessly. Below is what (I think) I would like to do in the order I think I would have to do it. Could you help me understand if (a) this makes sense, and (b) if so, how do I accomplish these steps?
1. I unplug the 2 old units (2007 and 2011) and set them aside for the moment.
2. I plug in the new 6th gen TC to my modem and follow set up instructions to make it my backup area for iMac, Air, and old Macbook. I assume I need to do this because I want it to be the primary right?
3. I want to use the 2011 TC as a hard drive - I will be transferring all photos and 2 iTunes libraries (mine and my husband's) to it. We watch lots of movies so that is the main use. I think I would want this plugged directly into an ethernet port in the wall so it will be quickest for Apple TVs to access right? Or would it be better (fastest access) to connect it directly to the new TC or even the iMac? Is there something I need to do to make it an external drive rather than TC?
4. I would also, if possible, like to use the 2011 TC as an extender into a far room in the house. Could I simply plug it into an ethernet port in that room and it magically becomes an extender too? Would this not be ideal for some reason, like it is slower to access? Note that this is not terribly necessary but would be nice if easy.
6. Would it make sense for me to plug in the 2007 unit in a far room upstairs to serve as an extender up there?
Thank you so very much in advance.

There are a few things to get straight..
This is pedantic but heck I post too much..
The Gen of the TC is one behind the Extreme.. so a Gen6 AE = Gen5 TC.
Totally pedantic.. but it keeps me happy.
3. I want to use the 2011 TC as a hard drive - I will be transferring all photos and 2 iTunes libraries (mine and my husband's) to it. We watch lots of movies so that is the main use.
I would like you to rethink this.
You can do it.. but I think you are misunderstanding how iphoto and itunes work.
Your Apple TV never connects to the library of itunes..
And
Your TC is not a media player.
So all files stored on a TC are going to flow like this..
TC(ituneslibrary)---Computer (itunes)---stream---TC(network)----ATV.
If you remove the computer.. then you have nothing.
The TC is not a great place to store the itunes library for the following reasons.
It is slow.. much slower than local hard disk.
It is slow to spin up .. causing itunes issues with losing the library.
It is fast to spin down.. so streams get lost.
It has no backup.. and Time Machine cannot backup network drives. That means one day you will wake up.. TC will be dead.. (they do not last forever so this is 100% certain to happen).. And your library is gone. Apple offer no recovery service.. and it costs a small fortune to recover files.. without any guarantee of success.
iphoto is even worse.. it is strongly recommended NOT TO USE NETWORK to locate the iphoto library. It corrupts easily and a small corruption makes the entire library unreadible.
Since you have imac it is better to use an external drive for libraries.. use the fastest port available and you can afford.. ie Thunderbolt>USB3>FW800>USB2
Only the very latest Macs have USB3 but it kills the earlier USB2 and Firewire. And for many people will be as fast as Thunderbolt which is the tops but uber expensive.
Then the TC serves its correct function as TM backup.
You can share this hard disk to the network if you want other computers to access it.
You can store multiple iphoto or itunes libraries on it.
Follow the specific instructions about sharing your itunes library.
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht2688
http://www.apple.com/au/support/itunes/library/
And your iphoto
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1198
Most of the rest is fine..
1. Yes.
2. Yes.
4. Yes you can extend with the old TC. Ethernet would be better. You might be mixing up wireless extend with Roaming.. you can use roaming if you have ethernet already available.
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht4260
6. Yes.. you can use a number of units via ethernet as AP points.
5. For another life??

My new macbook air is saying I need to make space available on the start up disk... how do I do that?

My news macbook air is saying I need to make available space on my start up disk... how do I do that? What files should I delete?

Empty the Trash if you haven't already done so. If you use iPhoto, empty its internal Trash first:
iPhoto ▹ Empty Trash
Then reboot. That will temporarily free up some space.
According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of available space on the startup volume (as shown in the Finder Info window) for normal operation. You also need enough space left over to allow for growth of your data. There is little or no performance advantage to having more available space than the minimum Apple recommends. Available storage space that you'll never use is wasted space.
To locate large files, you can use Spotlight. That method may not find large folders that contain a lot of small files.
You can more effectively use a tool such as OmniDiskSweeper (ODS) to explore your volume and find out what's taking up the space. You can also delete files with it, but don't do that unless you're sure that you know what you're deleting and that all data is safely backed up. That means you have multiple backups, not just one.
Deleting files inside an iPhoto or Aperture library will corrupt the library. Any changes to a photo library must be made from within the application that created it. The same goes for Mail files.
Proceed further only if the problem isn't solved by the above steps.
ODS can't see the whole filesystem when you run it just by double-clicking; it only sees files that you have permission to read. To see everything, you have to run it as root.
Back up all data now.
If you have more than one user account, make sure you're logged in as an administrator. The administrator account is the one that was created automatically when you first set up the computer.
Install ODS in the Applications folder as usual. Quit it if it's running.
Triple-click anywhere in the line of text below on this page to select it, then copy the selected text to the Clipboard by pressing the key combination command-C:
sudo /Applications/OmniDiskSweeper.app/Contents/MacOS/OmniDiskSweeper
Launch the Terminal application in any of the following ways:
☞ Enter the first few letters of its name into a Spotlight search. Select it in the results (it should be at the top.)
☞ In the Finder, select Go ▹ Utilities from the menu bar, or press the key combination shift-command-U. The application is in the folder that opens.
☞ Open LaunchPad. Click Utilities, then Terminal in the icon grid.
Paste into the Terminal window (command-V). You'll be prompted for your login password, which won't be displayed when you type it. You may get a one-time warning to be careful. If you see a message that your username "is not in the sudoers file," then you're not logged in as an administrator.
The application window will open, eventually showing all files in all folders, sorted by size with the largest at the top. It may take a few minutes for ODS to finish scanning your files.
I don't recommend that you make a habit of doing this. Don't delete anything while running ODS as root. If something needs to be deleted, make sure you know what it is and how it got there, and then delete it by other, safer, means. When in doubt, leave it alone or ask for guidance.
When you're done with ODS, quit it and also quit Terminal.

Will the new MacBook Air be able to handle what I need it for?

I'm about to buy my first ever Mac, exciting right?
Anywho, I was set on getting a MacBook (or possibly pro) then the new MacBook Air came out, after looking at it and doing a bit of research it seems to be a fantastic computer but I'm not sure if it can handle what I'll be using it for.
On a general day to day basis, I use these programs:
- a Web Browser (surfing the web and watching online video mostly)
- iTunes
- Scrivener (Writing Software)
- Skype
- AIM
- Microsoft Office
On about a weekly+ basis, I'll be using these programs:
- iMovie
- Adobe Flash CS5 Professional
- Adobe Photoshop CS5
- Other Adobe programs?
Other little tidbits that may be helpful:
- I'm a college student (And though I don't write a lot of essays, stupid technical classes, I will next year because...)
- I'll most likely major in Graphic Design, English or both.
- I spend a lot of time on the computer.
- I'm not a gamer, outside of the occasional online game
- I'm not planning on keeping too much on the computer. (Only programs and whatever project(s) I'm currently working on. Everything else will be kept in an external hard drive or Dropbox. Too keep away clutter and because having so many PC's crash on me has made me paranoid.)
I like the new MacBook Air because it's small and light and has the perfect amount of battery to fit my needs (I hardly ever keep my computer away from a plug for more than 7 hours) Also I really never use my CD drive on my laptop, in fact I think I only used it twice this past year. So really my only concern is that I'll buy it and end up discovering that it doesn't fit my needs, hence this post.
Beyond this I only have three questions:
1.) How much memory should I have? (I do want some wiggle room)
2.) Does a mini jack mean I have to buy special headphones or an adapter?
3.) Does the Facetime Camera = Web Cam? Can I use it for the same purposes? (ex. taking photos/videos, video chat through Skype, etc.)
And the main question: Would the New MacBook Air work for me? If not, which Mac should I get instead? (I'm getting a 13" laptop across the board)
And I probably posted way too much information about my computer life, but if there is anything I learned from taking technical classes its that the more information I can give the better suited computer you can advice me to get.
So thanks to anyone who responds!

witsallbeendonebefore wrote:
The extra 2GB would make any computer run faster. Could you maybe explain more?
Absolutely. The 13" MBA (baseline configuration) at $1299 weighs in at $100 more than the 13" MBP, upgrade the MBA to 4GB and it's now $200 more. So you're paying more money for comparable or "slightly" better performance.
There's been a lot of performance benchmarks released over the past 4 days since I made my initial remark. Not to mention in that time I've had the opportunity to use a 13" MBA with 2GB & 4GB of RAM, although I had more time with the 2GB model. Some observations:
1.) What happens when you need to install something that's only available via CD or DVD? Part two of that question, what happens if you don't have access to a computer with an optical drive to share over to the MBA?
2.) What if you require FireWire connectivity or need to troubleshoot your computer via TDM?
3.) How do you manage 128GB?
4.) How do you run a presentation from the machine with an IR-base remote?
Now, don't get me wrong. I'm a big fan of the MBA, I was one of the first in line to buy one when the first generation came out and I made the 2nd generation MBA my "go to" mobile computer for well over a year. I've been very pleased with currently MBA, but it's not a jack of all trades and while it may be faster than my 13" MBP there are still scenarios that require features the MBP has 'standard' that the MBA does not offer or requires more $$ to implement.
My initial comment about "sluggish" performance was in respect to LightRoom3, Starcraft II, World of Warcraft and Adobe Photoshop CS5. I'll absolutely agree that equalizing the RAM would definitely help to level the playing field but thus far in my testing with the 13" MBA @ 4GB versus the 13" MBP @ 4GB there's still some noticeable difference in favor of the MBP.

I have connected my new Macbook Air to my existing Samsung large external monitor with a VGA adaptor but I can't get the full mac desktop to display. No icons but then websites are coming up. Help!

I have connected my new Macbook Air to my existing Samsung large external monitor with a VGA adaptor but I can't get the full mac desktop to display. No icons but then websites are coming up. Help! Further info: I am a complete newbie to Mac. Had three macs prior to 2000 then four PCs. Just come back and struggling a bit with the unfamiliarity. On my old PC laptop I could simply switch from the laptop screen to the large external monitor (and back) with the F4 function key. While I can get the background image from my MBA to display, that's it. Until I noticed on the far left of the external monitor, the very edge of one of the web pages I was on. So Idragged it over to display in the centre. But that's all that's there. And now I have gone out of those web pages but they are still displaying on the monitor. There is some wierd disconnect. I'm sure it is just a setting thing. Will keep searching for answer but any advice welcome!

Your dsplay is getting extended onto the external monitor. Chcnage the setting to duplicate it or only display on the external monitor and you should be fine,
Let me know if this worked for you.

I have a new MacBook Air with Yosemite (no CD/DVD capacity). I want to install Photoshop Elements 6. Can I do this with the serial number? If pse 6 is not compatible, can I upgrade to pse 7. I do not need pse 12 or 13.

I have a new MacBook Air with Yosemite (no CD/DVD capacity). I want to install Photoshop Elements 6. Can I do this with the serial number? If pse 6 is not compatible, can I upgrade to pse 7. I do not need pse 12 or 13

I cannot answer regarding compatibility, but there is no download available for PSE6 if you would need one for this. You might be able to copy the installation files from a disk to some other removable media that the machine accepts. Upgrading to PSE7 would not be possible mainly because Adobe does not sell older versions of their software.

Is an anti-virus needed for a new macbook pro?

Is an anti-virus needed for a new macbook pro with retina display?

1. This comment applies to malicious software ("malware") that's installed unwittingly by the victim of a network attack. It does not apply to software, such as keystroke loggers, that may be installed deliberately by an intruder who has hands-on access to the victim's computer. That threat is in a different category, and there's no easy way to defend against it. If you have reason to suspect that you're the target of such an attack, you need expert help.
If you find this comment too long or too technical, read only sections 5, 6, and 10.
OS X now implements three layers of built-in protection specifically against malware, not counting runtime protections such as execute disable, sandboxing, system library randomization, and address space layout randomization that may also guard against other kinds of exploits.
2. All versions of OS X since 10.6.7 have been able to detect known Mac malware in downloaded files, and to block insecure web plugins. This feature is transparent to the user, but internally Apple calls it "XProtect." The malware recognition database is automatically checked for updates once a day; however, you shouldn't rely on it, because the attackers are always at least a day ahead of the defenders.
The following caveats apply to XProtect:
It can be bypassed by some third-party networking software, such as BitTorrent clients and Java applets.
It only applies to software downloaded from the network. Software installed from a CD or other media is not checked.
3. Starting with OS X 10.7.5, there has been a second layer of built-in malware protection, designated "Gatekeeper" by Apple. By default, applications and Installer packages downloaded from the network will only run if they're digitally signed by a developer with a certificate issued by Apple. Software certified in this way hasn't necessarily been tested by Apple, but you can be reasonably sure that it hasn't been modified by anyone other than the developer. His identity is known to Apple, so he could be held legally responsible if he distributed malware. That may not mean much if the developer lives in a country with a weak legal system (see below.)
Gatekeeper doesn't depend on a database of known malware. It has, however, the same limitations as XProtect, and in addition the following:
It can easily be disabled or overridden by the user.
A malware attacker could get control of a code-signing certificate under false pretenses, or could simply ignore the consequences of distributing codesigned malware.
An App Store developer could find a way to bypass Apple's oversight, or the oversight could fail due to human error.
For the reasons given above, App Store products, and other applications recognized by Gatekeeper as signed, are safer than others, but they can't be considered absolutely safe. "Sandboxed" applications may prompt for access to private data, such as your contacts, or for access to the network. Think before granting that access. OS X security is based on user input. Never click through any request for authorization without thinking.
4. Starting with OS X 10.8.3, a third layer of protection has been added: a "Malware Removal Tool" (MRT). MRT runs automatically in the background when you update the OS. It checks for, and removes, malware that may have evaded the other protections via a Java exploit (see below.) MRT also runs when you install or update the Apple-supplied Java runtime (but not the Oracle runtime.) Like XProtect, MRT is presumably effective against known attacks, but maybe not against unknown attacks. It notifies you if it finds malware, but otherwise there's no user interface to MRT.
5. XProtect, Gatekeeper, and MRT reduce the risk of malware attack, but they're not absolute protection. The first and best line of defense is always your own intelligence. With the possible exception of Java exploits, all known malware circulating on the Internet that affects a fully-updated installation of OS X 10.6 or later takes the form of so-called "trojan horses," which can only have an effect if the victim is duped into running them. The threat therefore amounts to a battle of wits between you and the malware attacker. If you're smarter than he thinks you are, you'll win.
That means, in practice, that you never use software that comes from an untrustworthy source, or that does something inherently untrustworthy. How do you know what is trustworthy?
Any website that prompts you to install a “codec,” “plug-in,” "player," "extractor," or “certificate” that comes from that same site, or an unknown one, is untrustworthy.
A web operator who tells you that you have a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with your computer, or that you have won a prize in a contest you never entered, is trying to commit a crime with you as the victim. (Some reputable websites did legitimately warn visitors who were infected with the "DNSChanger" malware. That exception to this rule no longer applies.)
Pirated copies or "cracks" of commercial software, no matter where they come from, are unsafe.
Software of any kind downloaded from a BitTorrent or from a Usenet binary newsgroup is unsafe.
Software that purports to help you do something that's illegal or that infringes copyright, such as saving streamed audio or video for reuse without permission, is unsafe. All YouTube "downloaders" are in this category, though not all are necessarily harmful.
Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must be downloaded directly from the developer’s website. If it comes from any other source, it's unsafe.
Even signed applications, no matter what the source, should not be trusted if they do something unexpected, such as asking for permission to access your contacts, your location, or the Internet for no obvious reason.
6. Java on the Web (not to be confused with JavaScript, to which it's not related, despite the similarity of the names) is a weak point in the security of any system. Java is, among other things, a platform for running complex applications in a web page, on the client. That was always a bad idea, and Java's developers have proven themselves incapable of implementing it without also creating a portal for malware to enter. Past Java exploits are the closest thing there has ever been to a Windows-style virus affecting OS X. Merely loading a page with malicious Java content could be harmful.
Fortunately, client-side Java on the Web is obsolete and mostly extinct. Only a few outmoded sites still use it. Try to hasten the process of extinction by avoiding those sites, if you have a choice. Forget about playing games or other non-essential uses of Java.
Java is not included in OS X 10.7 and later. Discrete Java installers are distributed by Apple and by Oracle (the developer of Java.) Don't use either one unless you need it. Most people don't. If Java is installed, disable it — not JavaScript — in your browsers.
Regardless of version, experience has shown that Java on the Web can't be trusted. If you must use a Java applet for a task on a specific site, enable Java only for that site in Safari. Never enable Java for a public website that carries third-party advertising. Use it only on well-known, login-protected, secure websites without ads. In Safari 6 or later, you'll see a lock icon in the address bar with the abbreviation "https" when visiting a secure site.
Follow the above guidelines, and you’ll be as safe from malware as you can practically be. The rest of this comment concerns what you should not do to protect yourself from malware.
7. Never install any commercial "anti-virus" or "Internet security" products for the Mac, as they all do more harm than good, if they do any good at all. Any database of known threats is always going to be out of date. Most of the danger is from unknown threats. If you need to be able to detect Windows malware in your files, use one of the free anti-virus products in the Mac App Store — nothing else.
Why shouldn't you use commercial "anti-virus" products?
Their design is predicated on the nonexistent threat that malware may be injected at any time, anywhere in the file system. Malware is downloaded from the network; it doesn't materialize from nowhere.
In order to meet that nonexistent threat, the software modifies or duplicates low-level functions of the operating system, which is a waste of resources and a common cause of instability, bugs, and poor performance.
By modifying the operating system, the software itself may create weaknesses that could be exploited by malware attackers.
8. An anti-malware product from the App Store, such as "ClamXav," doesn't have these drawbacks. That doesn't mean it's entirely safe. It may report email messages that have "phishing" links in the body, or Windows malware in attachments, as infected files, and offer to delete or move them. Doing so will corrupt the Mail database. The messages should be deleted from within the Mail application.
An anti-virus app is not needed, and should not be relied upon, for protection against OS X malware. It's useful only for detecting Windows malware. Windows malware can't harm you directly (unless, of course, you use Windows.) Just don't pass it on to anyone else.
A Windows malware attachment in email is usually easy to recognize. The file name will often be targeted at people who aren't very bright; for example:
♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥!!!!!!!H0TBABEZ4U!!!!!!!.AVI♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥.exe
Anti-virus software may be able to tell you which particular virus or trojan it is, but do you care? In practice, there's seldom a reason to use the software unless a network administrator requires you to do it.
The ClamXav developer won't try to "upsell" you to a paid version of the product. Other developers may do that. Don't be upsold. For one thing, you should not pay to protect Windows users from the consequences of their choice of computing platform. For another, a paid upgrade from a free app will probably have the disadvantages mentioned in section 7.
9. It seems to be a common belief that the built-in Application Firewall acts as a barrier to infection, or prevents malware from functioning. It does neither. It blocks inbound connections to certain network services you're running, such as file sharing. It's disabled by default and you should leave it that way if you're behind a router on a private home or office network. Activate it only when you're on an untrusted network, for instance a public Wi-Fi hotspot, where you don't want to provide services. Disable any services you don't use in the Sharing preference pane. All are disabled by default.
10. As a Mac user you don't have to live in fear that your computer is going to be infected every time you install an application, read email, or visit a web page. But neither should you have the false idea that you will always be safe, no matter what you do. The greatest harm done by security software is precisely its selling point: it makes people feel safe. They may then feel safe enough to take risks from which the software doesn't protect them. Nothing can lessen the need for safe computing practices.

I have started migration système to transfert from hold Macbook pro to New MacBook air application starter successfully for several hours. But since more than 3 hours I got the message transferring Time zone paramètres with time left less than 1 minute.

Hi
I have started migration système to transfert from hold Macbook pro to New MacBook air
Application starter successfully for several hours.
But since more than 3 hours I got the message "transferring Time zone paramètres " with time left less than 1 minute.
Any recommendation or suggestion to solve it ?
Many tanks

If it has run for 3 hours it's probably done and you can quit Migration Assistant and reboot the new computer. In the future rather than using Migration Assistant I would recommend using Startup Assistant which tends to be a bit more reliable and does not create a new user account as MA does. If you're interested here is an article explaining Setup Assistant tips.
Roger

I just bought a new macbook air and while transferring documents from my old computer to my new one it stopped working, how do I restart the transferring process (it won't force quit on the new one)?

I just bought a new macbook air and while transferring documents from my old computer to my new one it stopped working, how do I restart the transferring process (it won't force quit on the new one)?
I NEED HELP

jesster03 wrote:
i just bought a new macbook w/ mtn lion. when i transferred data from my old macbook over, it created another user name (i called it "old computer"). That's actually good
That's actually bad. Peruse Pondini's Setup New Mac guide and seriously consider starting over.

My new macbook air says I need to sign in with another id to download app store updates

I have a new MacBook Air. I have two pending updates from the app store (garage band and iphoto) that it will not let me update because it says I am not signed in under the correct account. I am signed into my itunes account so I don't know what I am doing wrong. Can someone help me please?

Welcome to Apple Support Communities
Did you purchase a second-hand Mac? If so, this is the answer. You need to purchase Mountain Lion by reinstalling the original Mac OS X version that came with your MacBook.
If you didn't purchase a second-hand Mac and you have a Mid 2012 or Mid 2013 MacBook Air, make sure you started up in Recovery HD and that you are using the Apple ID you used to set up your MacBook Air. Another option is to use Internet Recovery (hold Command, Option and R keys while your Mac is starting), because some users said it doesn't require any Apple ID.
If this doesn't work, contact with the Mac App Store support > http://www.apple.com/support/mac/app-store/contact

My sweet stable Imac7,1 + new Macbook Air Beachballs, needs SMC Resets, Browser 100 CPU...ideas?

Hi Everyone,
Imac7,1 10.5 patched fully (OS / Security / Java /Flash ) has been working like a system should for the past few years. No reboots needed. Always on. I basically use it to watch video, play audio, nothing CPU intensive. I was Internet Connection Sharing to one netbook, but as of last week added a new Macbook Air OS X 10.7.
If not that night after buying the Air, or the day after... The Imac beachballs permanently if I'm playing video files or using the internet, and the only way to get it back is an SMC reset. Anything other than an SMC reset just gets me to the prelogin wheel spin.
I've turned off Internet Connection Sharing, switched users, ran Disk Repair (only permissions on some java folders needed fixing), tried Safe Mode, looked in the logs for obvious things, but no luck yet.
Finally got around to watching the Activity Monitor when Firefox was playing back some Flash video and I actually saw the CPU above 100. Killing the process saved me from doing another reset
Any ideas what I should try? OS upgrade? Flash downgrade?
Is there anyway to prevent applications from using that much CPU and automatically shutting it down when it does?
Also curious if verbose logins, without the SMC reset, would give me any information...
Appreciate any suggestions. Thanks Appleworld.

Hello,
See if the Disk is issuing any S.M.A.R.T errors in Disk Utility...
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?path=DiskUtility/10.5/en/duh1896.html
Open Activity Monitor in Applications>Utilities, select All Processes & sort on CPU%, any indications there?
How much RAM & free space do you have also, click on the Memory & Disk Usage Tabs.
Open Console in Utilities & see if there are any clues or repeating messages when this happens.
In the Memory tab, are there a lot of Pageouts?

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