I need to refinance this auto loan!

One of my auto loans is through Regional Acceptance and it's actually one that I co-signed on but they have me as the primary (of course) and the kid has paid almost $2K and the balance has decreased so far by about $500. (Apparently one of those upfront interest deals that we didn't read close enough, but I had zero auto loan history at the time and took it with plans to refinance asap we could). Credit Score: FICO8 EQ 710 (putting that because we would like to try for GM)AAoA: 1 year (the only account still reporting an older TL)# of positive trade lines: 12# of negative trade lines: 0Income: $52KLenght of Employment: permanent disability (VA & SSDI)Previous Loan Experience: 2 auto loans that are 4&5 months oldDebt-to-Income (DTI): 19% (this includes the payment on the current loan for this vehicle if that makes any difference)Year of Car: 2011Miles: 38KPurchase/Refinance: RefinanceRequested loan term (XX Months): 72 or lessDown payment amount: $0 (the kid just put $7500 down when he bought it 3 months ago)Co-borrower/Co-Signer: Will be co-joint with my kid. This and a Cap1 QS1 are his only TLs, both less than 4 months oldOther:

parkbuilder wrote:
Try Notre Dame FCU. I refinanced a 19% loan to 5% and was approved for a $5k Visa Platinum card at the same time. Dropped our payment from $431 to $288. They pulled Transunion and my score was a 650.Well, I wanted to dip my toes into the water first to test the temp and so I hit your link above late last night and applied for a small personal loan. It gave me info, dates, interest, payment amounts, etc and stated someone would call me. Early this morning (around 8am) I got a call from a really nice lady and she told me she was calling about the loan and need some more info. I gave it to her. She then told me that she had been reviewing my credit report (TU) and told me that my score was very good and I should be proud of it (she told me it is 750 and that is currently my FICO8 TU Score if that helps anyone). She also said that I had a few low limit store cards and that I needed better and that she could get me a Platinum VISA 'with buying power' to help me there. Then she wanted to talk about my auto loans and asked questions about those, I explained one was mine that I drive and the other I co-signed for my kid. She said she could see that I was paying a really high interest on both and wanted more info if I was interested in refinancing. After getting her the VIN numbers, pay off, etc she said she needed to put it all together (and I guess send it through, maybe underwriters?) and that she would call me back when she had their offer(s). So now I'm waiting on that call. She did say something about the interest rate on the one car being 2.2-something, and my kid's would be 4.something. This would be great since they're currently 15 and 18 % due to not having any auto loan history at the time of purchase a few months ago and also 2 paid studen loans that had some lates on them. BoyHowdy! I sure hope this all pans out, parkbuilder! Swampthing, thank you, I keep hearing good things about Digital. It's always good to have more options in case one doesn't work out. I've def added them to my list of lenders that I keep info on

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Need a auto loan with 600ish scores, ideas?

I am trying to get some ideas on auto loans that may qualify me with scores around 600 fico. Any ideas? Capital one was a no go...

There are of course lots of facors in lending so the score alone doesnt tell the whole story but my guess is that you would have a decent chance with Roadloans (Santander) the interest will be high but you can likely refinance with a credit union within 6 months to a year at a much better rate. I would definitely begin a relationship with a credit union and see if you can get financed with them right off the bat.

DCU Auto Loan App Online..Is this normal....

I just applied online for a DCU auto loan and pressed submit and the next screen was a loan officer will contact me shortly. Does this mean declined or did I get that message because it is Sunday ? Thank you!!

You will get a decent APR. 685 gets you the best APR with them but I believe you will hit the teir just below that and you can always refinanace it with them if you improve your score to benefit from the better rate. The screen you got just means you didn't get an auto approval. Call in tomorrow and ask to talk to a loan agent and they will be able to walk you through it and get it handled pretty quickly for you. I got the same thing after getting an instant approval on my car and then submitting an app to redo my motorcycle and a 5 minute phone call got me approved, but not at the best rate which I learned comes at the 700 mark and will be what I am shooting for to take my motorcycle over to them as well.

Closed Auto Loan Reporting As Open Question

I have an auto loan reporting across all bureaus as open but in good standing. I suppose that is well and good except for the fact that the loan was closed in Dec of last year. My question...would having the loan shown as open reduce my credit score or do you think it's helping? I've heard having a loan of that nature close can reduce your score so I'm not sure what to do about it. Any input is appreciated. Thanks!

Well, see whether you get any other feedback from other folks on here. But if I were you, I'd just end up having some low grade anxiety if I had a record on my report that claimed I owed a big chunk of money for something I didn't. The explanation, I assume, is that the creditor never updated the record to show that you paid off the loan. Unless someone here tells you differently, I'd reach out to the lender and confirm with them that they agree that you paid off the loan in December. If they do agree, explain that they haven't yet updated the final status of the account to show that you paid it off -- and ask them to do that. That way you'll end up with an accurate report that shows future creditors that you can manage and pay off a car loan. I have allowed incorrect data to stay on my report when it is absolutely 100% positive. This is a bit of a mixed bag: a record that falsely asserts you still owe a creditor a good chunk of change. Whetever benefit you get out of it being "open" doesn't seem worth it to me. But see what other people say.

NASA Auto Loan Questions

So I recently got approved for NASA membership and CC. I am also toying with the idea of getting a new car or truck. Currently drive a 07 Accord that has been paid of for a few years now. While I love having 0 car payments I kinda want something more sporty.
Anyone have any experience with NASA auto loans and their process? Im probably gonna shoot for end of year should I take on a new vehicle. My approval score for NASA according to the paperwork was 666Ex but myFico had me in the 640s so not sure what version they pull. Currently myFico has me in the 670s and that should only get better.
Any thoughts, help or even recommendations would be amazing. :-)
-aloha

Aloha , Congrats on your approval membership with NASA Cu.first, I would agree with you to wait until you improve your score, try to keep that beast first premier,Fingerhut down to a very low balance even $0 balance, its good to rebuild your credit but in the long run, it time you outgrew the high interest cards,Now that you got approved CC,with NASA try to put usage with card and build up good payment history try to keep your utilities down under 20% when your ready to..I have a Checking account with NASA, others a happy but am in favor with NFCU, they are more in the same , my opinion NFCU better customer service. That being said, NASA CU products in comparison are virtually the same, good rates, competitively, I receive offers, the only headache I have with NASA when your need assistance, after hours can be a pain, but otherwise, stick to your goals now your in with NASA and already have been aproved for a cc. You should be in good shape by the end of the year, sporting down the Kaumualiʻi Highway Again , Ho'omaika'i ana , Pomaikai

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Inspector > Text > More > Language
Only applies to selected text, like making it a particular font.
It is not a setting that sticks. If you continue to paste in text from elsewhere particularly the Internet it will have a different or None language set to it. You need to select it and make it B.E.
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I need to move my "auto-complete" data to my log-in on the companies computer.

I need to move my "auto-complete" data to my log-in on the companies computer.
How do i do this? Replicating the date

See:
* http://kb.mozillazine.org/Transferring_data_to_a_new_profile_-_Firefox
* [[Recovering important data from an old profile]]

Auto Loan Payoff

Did a bit of searching and didn't find an answer to my question. If I make monthly payments on my auto loan as usual, but make say, 2 or 3 a month, and the loan ends up being paid off much before the loan term, will the payments show up the same as if I made payments each month for the entire duration of the loan? Basically, will the credit report give me a "check" or an OK for each month, AND, will the loan remain on my CR for the same amount of time as it would if I finished paying it off "on time" and not early. Does that make sense? Thanks!

OK, to clear up some confusion here: this is 100% lender dependent on what your best strategy is in this scenario. To make one thing absolutely clear, if you make a payment you ARE attacking the principal in any simple interest loan assuming you don't miss a number of payments. This is mathematically provable. Secondly, there's usually two different payment options: regular payment which is zero the current interest, and then rest goes to principal, or make a payment directly to principal and leave the interest untouched. Now here's where it gets to the lender dependent part - two examples from direct personal experience: 1) WFDS - If I make a regular payment larger than the expected amount, it gets applied to future payments. If I push this ahead non-trivially, this goes way out ahead in the future and that's precisely what I did with them and nobody said boo. I've done the same thing on my Alliant secured loan recently, and others did it with SDFCU... my next payment on my Alliant loan is in 2018. That's right, 3 years from now. 2) DCU - If I make a regular payment larger than the expected amount, it still gets applied to future payments; however, DCU will reset the due date to 3 months ahead of time if you pay beyond that. I kicked $3K to my auto loan, payment date got pushed well in advance (had a 310 and change payment) and then I got a nasty gram from DCU telling me not to do that and they reset my payment due date to precisely 3 months ahead. Did it again later, same darned thing happened. Wasn't happy. The reasons for doing this are two fold: longer tradelines are simply better, and we've recently got a conclusive set of datapoints that installment tradeline utilization (which auto loans count into) is an actual thing on both FICO 8 and FICO 98 scores. Data all here: http://ficoforums.myfico.com/t5/Understanding-FICO-Scoring/Installment-tradeline-utilization-thread/td-p/4055989 Anyway, make some lump sum regular payments and see if you can push the balance down to some trivial amount, but do not pay it off. Auto interest rates of a couple percent these days on $100 or even $10 is absolutely trivial for FICO reindeer games, and a longer tradeline and a nice anchor to the installment utilization metric, is absolutely the right way to approach this is my opinion. The only reason not to do it is if someday you have to get a DTI calculation done for a mortgage and you're missing by the expected payment amount, then pay it off otherwise keep it for as long as possible. You can sort it for smaller dollar amounts on a DTI calc with a minimal secured loan, but I wouldn't close a pretty auto loan anytime before I had to personally... that's a high quality tradeline in my opinion, milk it for all that it's worth.

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Is there anyone that can help me with this problem? The files are always nothing I recognise and they won't download. I always have to manually stop iPhoto from trying to download them. Is there a way to stop this auto downloading?

Quit iPhoto and to to the iPhoto library (by default in your pictures folder) - right click (control click) on it and select show package contents - find the folder named import (or importing) and drag it to the desktop - DO NOT MAKE ANY OTHER CHANGES - launch iPhoto and you will be fine.
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Please need help with this query

Hi !
Please need help with this query:
Needs to show (in cases of more than 1 loan offer) the latest create_date one time.
Meaning, In cases the USER_ID, LOAN_ID, CREATE_DATE are the same need to show only the latest, Thanks!!!
select distinct a.id,
create_date,
a.loanid,
a.rate,
a.pays,
a.gracetime,
a.emailtosend,
d.first_name,
d.last_name,
a.user_id
from CLAL_LOANCALC_DET a,
loan_Calculator b,
bv_user_profile c,
bv_mr_user_profile d
where b.loanid = a.loanid
and c.NET_USER_NO = a.resp_id
and d.user_id = c.user_id
and a.is_partner is null
and a.create_date between
TO_DATE('6/3/2008 01:00:00', 'DD/MM/YY HH24:MI:SS') and
TO_DATE('27/3/2008 23:59:00', 'DD/MM/YY HH24:MI:SS')
order by a.create_date

Perhaps something like this...
select id, create_date, loanid, rate, pays, gracetime, emailtosend, first_name, last_name, user_id
from (
      select distinct a.id,
                      create_date,
                      a.loanid,
                      a.rate,
                      a.pays,
                      a.gracetime,
                      a.emailtosend,
                      d.first_name,
                      d.last_name,
                      a.user_id,
                      max(create_date) over (partition by a.user_id, a.loadid) as max_create_date
      from CLAL_LOANCALC_DET a,
           loan_Calculator b,
           bv_user_profile c,
           bv_mr_user_profile d
      where b.loanid = a.loanid
      and   c.NET_USER_NO = a.resp_id
      and   d.user_id = c.user_id
      and   a.is_partner is null
      and   a.create_date between
            TO_DATE('6/3/2008 01:00:00', 'DD/MM/YY HH24:MI:SS') and
            TO_DATE('27/3/2008 23:59:00', 'DD/MM/YY HH24:MI:SS')
where create_date = max_create_date
order by create_date

Torch 9810 Need basics about Wifi auto-switching and tethering, please.

Concerning my AT&T Data plan:
1- when i'm using the device by itself, all indicators show that auto-switching is working when wifi is available. ok, bb gurus, i can't afford any surprises on my bill, so...is it really working all by itself, or am i gonna have to play the "disable this, enable that" game to make sure?
2- when i'm tethered, i see my device is being used as a standard dial-up modem, so clearly there's no wifi to be had. but...during tethering, is there any hardware config that allows my device to become a wifi adapter instead of a modem?
3- i think i don't have hotspot capabilities, is that correct?
btw-i absolutely love how easy it is to check service/connection status.
EDIT: i just noticed that when i have wifi, the ssid shows up next to the "AT&T" on the main screen, i walked back & forth across the street and watched it change...holy-moly i'm digging this phone!

1- you said "If so, leave it on but be aware that if your phone falls back to the network connection, you won't get any kind of warning from your homescreen."
here's what i learned since i last posted:
as i understand it, BB internet services is something separate from my metered AT&T data (i think bb services is how/why i'm getting my POP mail, "reconciliation" rocks the house). the service has a useful status display showing how it's connected...this auto-switches between network & wifi before my eyes as i walk in & out of range. here's the kicker...in the homescreen 'header' where my active carrier is displayed, a connected ssid is displayed along with it, ie "AT&T - Public Hotspot" which also changes on the fly. huh...yeah...and tapping said header opens up the connection manager, this is one smooth ui.
none of that says my data-stream is also being auto-switched, but it would be a fair bet to assume if the services has a signal, the data connection would too. i'd like to dig into this a little deeper, i've seen several versions of the right answer in my research.
2- you saying i get the updated OS?
3- see question 2
the rest of this you can totally ignore if you want, i've had one too many java's tonite, heh.
i'm an old-school hardware freak...i was changing jumpers on 486 motherboards & frying them back in the day. until recently i didn't need more than a phone (that old bullet proof nokia flip) but then i went to traveling on my motorized bicycle and upgraded to messaging & data. got a pantech link, it never failed me, i really like it a lot.
there's been times i've been out of cell range but sitting at a hotspot, wishing there was a messaging phone with wifi....like 35 miles north of haines alaska. i keep a little personal site if you're interested & if it's not against the rules:
http://mb-rambler.mysite.com/
so i decided to get into a smartphone, did a lot of shopping, a total newb...i started by choosing the pantech crossover, and honestly for my minimal needs it looks like a real beaut. we setup the deal and the crossover was shipped but then misrouted. i was told 2 weeks for that to be resolved, and i got mad but remained calm. bottom line is the AT&T rep went to bat for me on customer service, and eventually arranged for me to go to the nearest store and get whatever i wanted. no crossover in stock. well, in real life, there was no denying the blackberry's. it was the torch 2 or the bold, i like a real keyboard. but i'm a total bb newb too, so i closed my eyes and pointed at what i could afford.
i'm a lucky bubba i know...because since then i've learned a lot about this version and its history, and the hardware inside is blowing my mind. sorry for rambling, it's just i'm getting into this.
thanks for stepping in to help out. i'm sure i'll have more questions and comments as i move along.

Any suggestions for best place to get a low interest auto loan?

I am looking at an Acura. I would like to have the lowest interest possible, but not sure the best way to proceed. Any help will be appreciated. If this is answered elsewhere in this forum, I apologize ahead of time.

CribDuchess wrote:
Musiclover wrote:
I am looking at an Acura. I would like to have the lowest interest possible, but not sure the best way to proceed. Any help will be appreciated. If this is answered elsewhere in this forum, I apologize ahead of time.Most folks here recommend DCU, as they have great auto loan rates (as low as 1.74%). Their website is www.dcu.org. Acura also currently has a great promo rate on many of their vehicles - currently 1.9% for 60-months. Almost 3 years ago, I bought a brand new Acura and got 0.9% for 60-months. This was right before Labor Day in 2012. Not sure if they do the promo 0.9% rate every year around Labor Day, though. Good luck!!Thank you!

How does Penfed code CC transfer to auto loan?

I have both PenFed CC and auto loan. I'm looking to reach $1500 spending for the $100 credit card credit. I've noticed the transfer option was available to direct "transfer" from CC to auto loan, and of course I'll be paying the CC balance right off, but does anyone know how this will be coded. My gut tells me cash advance? If so, I will not do.

Mark,
How do we use UKM_TRANSFER to get AR data into FSCM?
Thanks
Sriram

How many new accounts before I start getting denied for an auto loan in Oct? (Fico 8 score 820)

As I understand, DCU gives some fantastic auto loan terms (1.5% for its members, which can be anybody from the general public), and they want mostly 680 and above to qualify for that rate. So you're possibly fine unless maybe you hit double digits in inquiries? Now I also understand that you might qualify for 0% financing at some places; their models (the auto enhanced ones) might penalize more harshly than FICO 08 for opening up new CC accounts so you may want to be careful with that. The current MyFICO package offers those scores as well, I believe. Why don't you check where you are with all the new accounts w.r.t auto enhanced scoring?

connect4dots wrote:
Fico 8 Score: 820AAoA 9 years. 30+ accounts (more than half closed). Oldest Account: 25 years.Clean report,. 0 lates/negatives. Thinking about doing an auto-loan in October. I understand its ideal to wait for 6+ months. But worst case I'll just wait another couple months or just buy my car outright. But to get a better idea and understanding of how far I can push this. Given my score and history, how many new accounts before I start running into trouble? I applied for 2 new CC so far. I'm going to APP for another 1-2. So in October this is what my inquires will look like: (4 new inquiries)Hard Inquires with past 6 months: EXP: 2-3. EQ- 0, TU: 1-2 Hard Inquiries older than 1 year: EXP: 3, TU:2, EQ: 1 3-4 New accounts that are 3 months old: What do you guys think? Always appreciate everyone's advice and input, Thank you!!!Not sure the answer but...you're my hero.

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Interesting...

I need to refinance this auto loan!

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