Ipad power consumption/drain?

I read somewhere that using the ipad's cover lock/unlock function with a compatible case actually increases power consumption and reduces battery life. Is there any truth to this as I've noticed faster battery drain since switching this feature on? I've foolowed all the power saving tips on other forums but drain still seems to have increased.
Any ideas?
Thanks!
Mark.

The quickest way (and really the only way) to charge your iPad is with the included 10W USB Power Adapter. iPad will also charge, although more slowly, when attached to a computer with a high-power USB port (many recent Mac computers) or with an iPhone Power Adapter (5W). When attached to a computer via a standard USB port (most PCs or older Mac computers) iPad will charge very slowly (but iPad indicates not charging). Make sure your computer is on while charging iPad via USB. If iPad is connected to a computer that’s turned off or is in sleep or standby mode, the iPad battery will continue to drain.
Apple recommends that once a month you let the iPad fully discharge & then recharge to 100%.
How to Calibrate Your Mac, iPhone, or iPad Battery
http://www.macblend.com/how-to-calibrate-your-mac-iphone-or-ipad-battery/
At this link http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/galaxy-tab-android-tablet,3014-11.html , tests show that the iPad 2 battery (25 watt-hours) will charge to 90% in 3 hours 1 minute. It will charge to 100% in 4 hours 2 minutes. The new iPad has a larger capacity battery (42 watt-hours), so using the 10W charger will obviously take longer. If you are using your iPad while charging, it will take even longer. It's best to turn your new iPad OFF and charge over night. Also look at The iPad's charging challenge explained http://www.macworld.com/article/1150356/ipadcharging.html
Also, if you have a 3rd generation iPad, look at
Apple: iPad Battery Nothing to Get Charged Up About
http://allthingsd.com/20120327/apple-ipad-battery-nothing-to-get-charged-up-abou t/
Apple Explains New iPad's Continued Charging Beyond 100% Battery Level
http://www.macrumors.com/2012/03/27/apple-explains-new-ipads-continued-charging- beyond-100-battery-level/
New iPad Takes Much Longer to Charge Than iPad 2
http://www.iphonehacks.com/2012/03/new-ipad-takes-much-longer-to-charge-than-ipa d-2.html
Apple Batteries - iPad http://www.apple.com/batteries/ipad.html
Extend iPad Battery Life (Look at pjl123 comment)
https://discussions.apple.com/thread/3921324?tstart=30
New iPad Slow to Recharge, Barely Charges During Use
http://www.pcworld.com/article/252326/new_ipad_slow_to_recharge_barely_charges_d uring_use.html
Tips About Charging for New iPad 3
http://goodscool-electronics.blogspot.com/2012/04/tips-about-charging-for-new-ip ad-3.html
Prolong battery lifespan for iPad / iPad 2 / iPad 3: charging tips
http://thehowto.wikidot.com/prolong-battery-lifespan-for-ipad
iPhone, iPod, Using the iPad Charger
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4327
In rare instances when using the Camera Connection Kit, you may notice that iPad does not charge after using the Camera Connection Kit. Disconnecting and reconnecting the iPad from the charger will resolve this issue.
 Cheers, Tom

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IPad power consumption in IOS7

I have recently installed IOS7 on my iPad and have noticed a an increase in battery power usage. Is this an issue with anyone else, or am I imagining things?

you are not alone. Try these tips:http://osxdaily.com/2013/09/19/ios-7-battery-life-fix/

Nokia N86 power consumption

I have a Nokia N86 which is 2 years old.
I have been experiencing a problem with battery drainage since I bought it. The battery meter suddenly drops from 5 bars to one bar when I browse the net using HSDPA, after about 30mins or so, when the phone is already hot. I sent it into service once, because it happened very randomly and it did not look like a major issue. They said they recalibrated the battery. After a week of somehow uniform battery draining, the battery started going flat suddenly, again, from 5-6 bars to "low battery".
I went to a service center again to check if it's the battery or the phone. Nokia Energy Profiler says that the current is about 400-500mA when using HSDPA. The engineer at the service center connected a power supply with measurable current consumption, and during the usage of HSDPA, the current was at least 800mA, with almost 1000mA peaks. He said that these current intensities damage the battery in about a month and that he would not recommend changing the battery, but the HSDPA chip. The warranty period expired a month ago.
I am asking you guys:are these values normal? 800-1000mA during HSDPA usage for a Nokia N86? I need a serious, valid opinion from somebody who really knows mobile hardware. Thank you.

This has happened to me every now and then. First it seems as if the battery is almost full and then it's suddenly empty even without using the device much.
Sometimes the device feels warm. In those cases I just reboot it.
Obvious things to check would be that BlueTooth and WLAN are off if you don't need them.
Sometimes the switch of the kickstand has activated when I have carelessly thrown the phone on a bed for example. If you have defined it to start an application that could cause some power consumption.
I haven't tried to measure my power consumption. I guess there are two options:
- the device actually consumes a lot of power sometimes
- the battery indicator isn't always up-to-date i.e. it shows several bars when the battery is actually almost empty.
It's a shame because it's a pretty nice phone and I quite like it. Luckily it's quite a rare problem.
(But not that great if the battery dies during a bicycle trip just because I have SportsTracker running.)

Power Consumption Revisited

I was reading an article on tomshardware.com the other day in which they described a process by which they were able to measure the power consumption of various video cards using a simple device that plugs into a standard wall socket and then displays the number of watts the currently plugged in device is using. In light of the ever-increasing PSU recommendations that tend to show up here (I recall seeing one poster recommend "a PSU with 24 or more amps on the +12V rail for anything other than a barebones system"), I decided that it might be beneficial to these forums if I did a little empirical study of my own. So anyways, I shelled out ~$30 for the device shown here:
http://www.supermediastore.com/kilwateldet1.html
...and ran some tests of my own. The results:
Preliminary Testing -
To verify that my power meter would give reasonably accurate readings, I first hooked it up to a 3-way lamp with a 50/100/150 watt bulb installed. The readings returned for the 50/100/150 watt settings (respectively) were 44/94/142, so it would seem like my power meter is at least reasonably accurate. Some other stuff I measured just for the hell of it...my speakers use 3 watts of power in stadby mode, and 30 watts when active (haven't yet tested when active and playing at full volume), and my monitor uses about 70 watts when on, and about 2 watts in standby mode.
Results -
Satisfied that I had not just wasted my money on an inaccurate power meter, I then went and hooked it up to my PC (the one described in my sig) and measured the power consumption under a variety of circumstances. It is important to note that these readings reflect the total amount of power drain being applied to the wall socket, not the amount of power that is actually being demanded by the system. This is because no PSU is 100% efficient (a good one will be maybe 80% efficient, if even that much), so the amount of power that is actually needed by the system is actually about (at least)20% *less* than the recorded values. Anyways:
During startup, the power usage spikes very briefly at 197 watts, then averages 152 watts over the rest of the boot cycle.
The system uses 134 watts of power when idling.
Under full CPU load, the system uses 168 watts.
Running 3d Mark 2001 the power usage is 169 watts.
Playing Far Cry (high detail settings, 1024x768x32), the power usage is again 169 watts.
Conclusions -
So, let's now assume a worst-case scenario, in which the extra 34 watts recorded during full CPU load came entirely from extra CPU power drain (a reasonable assumption), and in which the extra 35 watts recorded during 3d Mark and Far Cry came entirely from extra video card load (a much less reasonable assumption), and in which we have a PSU that is 90% efficient (greater efficiency means that the system would actually have to demand *more* power in order to get the total power drain up that high). In this case we see that if an application were developed that fully taxed the video card and CPU continuously, the total power drain would be 134 + 34 + 35 = 203 watts (which actually correlates rather nicely with the 197 watt spike observed during the boot cycle), meaning that the system is demanding about 183 watts from our unrealistically efficient PSU (note that with the PSU efficiency set to a more realistic 75%, the system would only be demanding a mere 153 watts of juice at full CPU and video card load).
Admittedly, the video card in my system is relatively weak, so let us again take the worst case scenario and assume that if I were to be using a 6800 Ultra, the total power drain would be 100 watts greater (this is above what the actual difference should be given the results posted on tomshardware.com regarding the power use of the 6800 Ultra), so our video card now consumes an astounding 135 watts of power, and our total power drain (in our unrealistic situation where we have some application which is capable of 100% CPU and video card utilization for a sustained length of time) is now 303 watts. With our unrealistic 90% efficient PSU, it would mean that the system is demanding about 273 watts from the PSU (about 228 watts with a 75% efficient PSU).
Note that aside from the weak video card, I have a fairly robust system (which also happens to be slightly overclocked), with 4 HDD's (two of which are WD Raptors), 2 optical drives, several PCI devices, and two large 120mm case fans, and yet the power demands of this system, even in an unrealisticly demanding situation, are *well* within the ability of a quality 380W (or even 300W) PSU to deliver. In this case even if all the power happened to be being sucked off of the +12V rail (which is not the case), any PSU with 18 amps at +12V could still handle it. Furthermore, even if I were to add a needlessly power-hungry video card into the mix, the power demands are *still* safely within what any decent 380W PSU should be capable of (and even what a quality 300W PSU should be capable of, although this may be pushing it a little, though it should always be noted that the numbers indicate a hypothetical worst-case power drain that should be beyond the maximum drain possible in any real-world situation).
So, we can therefore conclude that the power demands of a reasonably robust Athlon64 based system are not astronomical by any means, and that they do not justify a minimum recommendation of a 465W PSU with 24+ amps on the +12V rail for any system which is not "barebones," and that there is no observational evidence to support the idea that a PSU with 18 or fewer amps at +12V is categorically inadequate for use in an Athlon64 based system.
...anyways, I guess that's all, I hope you found this interesting, or at least informative. I'm off to see what else I can do with my power meter thingy...

Really? Do you have measured data which clearly supports your claims, or are you just holding up an opinion as a matter of fact?
My point was, my measured results show that the total power demand of an Athlon64 based system across *all* of the rails is fairly low, even at 100% system load. So, let's recalculate things assuming a 75% efficient PSU, with 75% of all load being at + 12V (which is still probably higher than the actual value), and let's leave the hypothetical 6800U inside of my system. We get .75 * 303 = 227 watts in total that the system is demanding. Of these 227 watts, the system is demanding .75 * 227 = 170 watts over the +12V rail. 170 watts / 12V gives us a total demand of 14.2 amps on the +12V rail. Note that this is with the hypothetically demanding 6800U card installed and is still likely to be at least a couple amps higher than what a *real* system would ever use, and any *quality* PSU capable of 18 amps at +12V should still be perfectly adequate for use in the system.
Furthermore, PSU efficiency dropping to 60% in real world situations supports my results, as it means that the actual system was demanding substantially *less* power than the system in my hypothetical example, making things even *easier* for the PSU. Re-running the above equation with a 60% efficient PSU and 75% of all power demand coming from the +12V rail, we see that the system is only asking for 11.4 amps at +12V at full load with a 6800U installed (and also at full load).
If you want to disagree with my results, that's fine, but don't expect me to take your argument as credible unless you have some actual, measurable data to back up your claims. Saying "this is the way things *really* work because I say so" doesn't cut it, so until you want to break out a multimeter and measure the amps your PSU delivers to the MB on the +12V rail at boot, idle, load, and gaming and then report your results and discuss whether or not they are consistent with your "amps are what counts" hypothesis, I hold my results and conclusions up as being valid, and as soon as I see any measured results which contradict mine, I will gladly stfu about PSU recommendations being needlessly high.

Power consumption increased with kernel 3.2.5

The new kernel 3.2.5 supposedly fixed the old power regression introduced in 2.6.39 (or so). On my T60 laptop (Core 2 Duo) not only that the power consumption stayed high, but the pcie_aspm=force option passed to the kernel is not working anymore. The result: my laptop consumes 20W on idle (I use KDE, kmail and firefox on with 2 tabs open). That's 25% more than what I had with the older 3.2.4 kernel and pcie_aspm=force enabled.
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Did you guys experience something similar or is it just me?

If you don't use Skype then I'd delete it.
PIM services is a bit high. I'd remove each of your accounts under Settings >Accounts. Then reboot the device. Monitor the PIM services battery drain for a while with no accounts added and see how it goes. Then add each account back, one at a time, and monitor for a couple hours to see the PIM services usage. It should be a bit high for the first hour while information syncs to the device then it should settle down. Once you're satisfied the account is working OK you can add the next account. Find the one that keeps the PIM services drainage high.
If the device doesn't show 4G, then what does it show?

Power consumption and on/off status?

Greetings!
One: I am trying to find out what the power consumption is for the iPod Hi-Fi in watts.
Two: Is the Hi-Fi drawing power if the Hi-Fi is plugged into the wall but the iPod is not in the dock?
These questions are not covered in the literature nor on the website. When I called the Helpline, six different customer service and technical support staffers didn't know either answer. The Apple Store employees in San Diego also didn't know.
A suggestions for the next generation of Hi-Fi: Make it so the unit does not draw power unless an iPod is in the dock or an auxiliary input plug is not connected.
This would allow my Hi-Fi to be placed in a bookcase in a semi-permanent installation not requiring the need to be unplugged everytime the iPod was not in use.
Thanks,
Ralph
iPod 30GB & iPod Hi-Fi

One: I am trying to find out what the power
consumption is for the iPod Hi-Fi in watts.
Are you interested in the sound output, as specified by many loudspeaker makers? Or did you only want to know the drain from the mains supply, for cost or environmental reasons?
If the latter, finding someone with a watt meter would be the easiest way. Apple do not specify the power consumption. I would guess they didn't want to get into a competition about whose loudspeaker has the most music power (since everyone lies).
If I had to guess, I would think around 25 watts peak when running on batteries, around 80 watts peak when running on AC. That is a very rough guess based on how long batteries last (5 hours), the sound output difference between battery (102dB) and AC (108dB), and the likely efficiency of their amplifier (80%).
Testing with a watt meter would be a much better way to come up with a figure. I gather they are cheap and readily available in the USA (scarce and expensive here).
Two: Is the Hi-Fi drawing power if the Hi-Fi is
plugged into the wall but the iPod is not in the
dock?
Yes. Any device with a soft power switch draws power when not physically unplugged. However I would imagine in that state consumption would be less than one watt. Apple would almost certainly have used the same methods they use to reduce power on sleeping computers (when there is no input signal for a while).

E71 firmware v400.21.013 power consumption

I recently upgraded the firmware of my E71 from version 300 to 400.21.013. Previously the battery lasted in normal use approximately three days. After the upgrade the battery drains in half a day. Has anyone noticed similar problem and is there a solution for it?

Noticed that too... on the 300 firmware nokia energy profiler showed constant energy consumption about 0,05W when not used.
Now just after the phone turns on the power consumption goes normally (http://www.image-share.com/image.php?img=133/168.png), but if I ever use the bulitin WLAN desktop app/plugin it consumes every minute nearly 1W of power even if it's not used and scanning is turned off (http://www.image-share.com/image.php?img=133/169.png).
I have no WLAN availability scanning (it's turned to 'never'), and I always turn the WLAN desktop scan off.
The funniest thing at all is that when I 'delete' the WLAN scan from desktop (in personalization options) the power consumption goes again as it was before using any WLAN connection (http://www.image-share.com/image.php?img=133/170.png)
Magic?
Message Edited by thonka on 12-Jan-2010 05:53 PM

How much should an iPad 3 battery drain when watching videos over Wi-Fi?

How much should an iPad 3 battery drain when watching videos over Wi-Fi?

Try Battery Doctor. It'll provide you with plenty of info on battery consumption.
https://itunes.apple.com/sg/app/battery-doctor-hd/id459702901?mt=8
http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee374/Diavonex/17e0b678bc14bd16c469f71151a08 a7d_zpse788fae8.jpg

Power consumption when running window XP

Hi guys!
Hmm, recently i've asked a question on the other forums regarding the power consumption of my macbook pro while running window XP.
I realised that when i run window Xp, the battery life can only last around 2 hours, while when I run mac OS X, the battery life is around 4 hours.
However, I've got a reply at the forum and the reply cause me to be worried...
Here's the reply...
Power management is built into Mac OS X. So OS X constantly monitors the power consumption and energy profiles of the system while in use.
Windows XP and Vista, on the other hand, is built off the NT kernel which was NEVER meant for mobile computing. Unlike OS X, Windows XP and Vista does not have built in powe rmanagement: it actually relies on the low level BIOS (which is almost 3 decades old as of today) to manage its power consumption and settings.
Since the Macs do not boot using BIOS but rather, with EFI, to boot Windows, the EFI creates a BIOS emulation layer to support Windows. because this layer is emulated and the user has no control over it, Windows loses ALL forms of power management: the fans on the Mac will run at max, EIST will be disabled, wireless receptivity and hard disks will be set to consume all the energy they can grab, among many other things. Especially for hardware with moving parts like the fan and the hard disk: prepapre for premature hardware failure if left running at max performance all the time.
So can I ask, is this true?
Will running window XP on macbook pro causes the hardware to be spoilt more easily?
I have another friend who runs window XP on macbook and he told me that the hardware will not be affected by it, so can I reassure myself on that?
Thanks a lot. ^^

Yes, Win XP is a battery hog. I have an issue with Win XP not dimming the display the way OS X does before going to sleep. Running Win XP should not harm your hardware, it just drains the battery faster. I am looking into ways of improving batter life with Win XP. For now just make sure that you have the power settings in Win XP set to laptop/portable. If you need instructions on adjusting those settings I can provide them.

Since I have upgraded from 7.1 then the power consumption increased slightly unbelievable. I have new batteries in my iphone 5 and when I had at ios 7 so was consumption that allows the battery envelope in two days and with ios 7.1 so is it only 12 hours

Since I have upgraded from 7.1 then the power consumption increased slightly unbelievable. I have new batteries in my iphone 5 and when I had at ios 7 so was consumption that allows the battery envelope in two days and with ios 7.1 so is it only 12 hours before I need to recharge the battery.

Wrote a little wrong the first time!
Then I upgraded to 7.1 so have power consumption increased slightly unbelievable. I have new batteries in my iphone 5 and when I had at ios 7 so was consumption that allows the battery envelope in two days and with ios 7.1 so is it only 12 hours before I need to recharge the battery.

3000 J converted to NAS, Are there fan control settings/ways to reduce power consumption?

So I've had this old 3000 J series - (J115 7388) that's been sitting doing nothing for a while, so I decided to convert it into a FreeNAS, I've stripped out the DVD, card readers, anything unneccesary to reduce power usage - on that theme I have a few questions...
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the specs http://support.lenovo.com/en_US/detail.page?LegacyDocID=MIGR-67129 say the fan is variable, but I can't see anything obvious in the BIOS, it did take me some time to find the boot order, so maybe I'm overlooking something
So that's my main question & this is the bonus
2. I know there's an Nvidia C51G chipset in there somewhere, is it possible to remove this, there's no GUI on the pc anymore, so again, & also anything else like sound, just to make it as efficient as possible & not to have any unessesary components using power
I have downloaded updated the latest BIOS (circa 2007) onto another pc from http://support.lenovo.com/en_US/downloads/detail.page?DocID=DS001014 - even if it does provide an update to what I already have - I did note 2007 already on the BIOS version, of course I can't run it to try to make a bootable usb as the downloaded exe is for XP
I'm having a little trouble with the Lenovo site UI, not sure if it's coding - the links to guides/docs/drivers/downloads on http://support.lenovo.com/en_US/guides-and-manuals/default.page?selector=expand just don't seem to be working for me

Are you sure there are no trojans or viruses on laptop? Also lounch the task manager and check out the service or application with deranged CPU loading while the laptop is in the idle mode. What is the power usage in the idle mode?
x220 | i5-2520m | Intel ssd 320 series | Gobi 2000 3G GPS | WiFi
x220 | i5-2520m | hdd 320 | Intel msata ssd 310 series | 3G GPS | WiFi
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Powermanager 1.60 has removed the abilty to show the current power consumption in the tray.

Hi,
well the topic says it. Powermanager 1.60 has removed the abilty to show the current power consumption in the tray.
I realy frustrated right now, why the heck did they remove this nice feature?
And this new energy slider is just trash. If i change back to advanced mode, i cant see my current power consumption. Nor in the main battery tab. The field "Current Power" is just blank. And the option in the tray vanished.
What the **bleep** are these guys doing. There was a time i fought this powermanger is the best software ibm/lenovo ever produced, but since the change of the ui, and removing important features. Its unbeliveable.
Especialy if you are on windows xp, this looks like **bleep**, and this "new" gauge desgin, flickers and stops my mouse on hower over the new "Design".
a frustrated,
R61 user.

you should try uninstalling & re install it http://www-307.ibm.com/pc/support/site.wss/document.do?lndocid=MIGR-70602
Message Edited by GMAC-R60 on 08-08-2009 12:38 PM
Thinkpad R61 7733-1GU
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Thinkpad X60T 6363-4GU
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Which is better in term of power consumption for L...

Hello!
I would like to know in terms of power consumption which connection type should I use on my Lumia 1020. 4G LTE or 3G. I'm not a person who watches movies on his smartphone, and I don't browse the Internet intensively using my smartphone. I use it to take pictures, check my e-mails, access Facebook, Twitter, Instagram and Flickr.
Thank you.
Cosmin Petrenciuc

3G is in general less power hungry.

Cisco 2951 router AC-PoE power consumption, meaning of the mention "Platform Only" in the datasheet.

Hello,
I have a question regarding the power consumption of a Cisco 2951 router with an AC-PoE power supply (without PoE boost).
In fact in the table (n°7) of the Cisco 2900 Series ISR (G2) datasheet, that sum up the power consumption data for Cisco 2900 series routers there is the line : "Maximum Power with PoE Power Supply (Platform Only) (Watts)", and I would like to know what is exactly the meaning about the mention "Platform Only".
Thank you for your help, best regards,

Hi @francois.trarieux,
This is the maximum power that is consumed exclusively by the router from the PoE PS (Power Supply). The power capacity that the PoE PS gives to other PoE devices (IP Phones, Cameras, APs, etc) is specified in the line below "Maximum End-Point PoE Power Available from PoE Power Supply (Watts)" of the datasheet.
HTH.
Regards,
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2011 MacBook Pro hard drive power consumption

Does anyone know the differences in power consumption between the Apple-supplied 750GB 5400rpm HDD, 500GB 7200rpm HDD, and 256GB SSD drives? I'm currently using a 2011 MacBook Pro with an Apple-supplied 256GB SSD and I'm getting between 5-8 hours of battery life, depending on what I'm doing. I wish it could get closer to a full 10-hour battery life for longer trips, but I realize there's a price for performance. What's the best hard drive option to minimize power consumption? Are there any other tips for increasing battery life? Does it make a difference if you turn off Bluetooth and WiFi when you know you're not going to be able to use them? Thank you in advance for your reply.

Yes, turn Wi-Fi and BT off when not needed. That and your screen are the biggest power consumers. Keep the brightness as low as you can to conserve power.
17" 2.2GHz i7 Quad-Core MacBook Pro  8G RAM  750G HD + OCZ Vertex 3 SSD Boot HD 

Ipad power consumption/drain?

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