Is a slightly uneven trackpad normal?

I recently just got the newest Macbook Air and after a week of use i noticed that my trackpad was a little funny. The bottom left corner is flush with the body but the right dips a little in. I mean it isn't too bad really but i don't understand why its like this, I never click to click on tabs i use the tap to click option on the touchpad. Is this anything to take this to the apple store about? or is this just a slight Imperfection that a lot of people face?

You can take it to your local Apple retailer. Make a Genius Appointment first. You will most likely have to leave it. I don't think they will fix it while you wait.

Similar Messages

Bumpy/Uneven Trackpad!

I was wondering if anyone else has an uneven trackpad. I just noticed that mine has a lump in it about 1.5 cm above the clicker. It extends for about a 1 cm, and then goes back even. It is about 2 inches long directly in the middle. I noticed it when I was scrolling, and it was feeling funny. It is not directly noticeable with the eye, until you look at it from an angle, and you can definitely see it then. Pretty annoying. I am going to call Apple after having this post up for a few days, just so I can get some feedback first. Thanks.

I will indeed mention that. What method did you use to have it replaced? Did you send it in, or did you take it to your local Apple Store to have replaced? Which ever method you used, how long did it take?

Uneven trackpad?

I just got a 15" Macbook Pro. The trackpad seems a little bit uneven. It is higher on the left side and sits flush with the main body while the right side is a little sunk and isn't flush with the main body. Is this normal?

well, my one dont look like that, but if it works normally, then there is no problem at all

Uneven trackpad button.

Hello. I just recieved my new iBook and everything is great, except for the trackpad button. It is uneven, with the left corner permanently depressed so that it is higher on the right side. Should I take the computer to the store and get it fixed, or is this nothing to worry about? The button itself seems to work fine, albeit with a loud noise. Thank you.
Mohamed
iBook G4 12-inch Mac OS X (10.4.3)

My trackpad button is higher on the right side, but
it doesn't seem to matter. I think the loud noise
would happen even if it wasn't as the button is
pretty thick.
It would cost money to get it looked at or fixed, so
I don't really think there's much point, you should
be fine.
so long as its under warranty still (especially right out of the box) it wouldn't cost a thing...my trackpad button does the same thing and its noisy and acting up now.

New 27" 2011 iMac is making humming voice and vibrates slightly when touched, normal?

As the label says.
I got my new iMac last week, everything was fine until yesterday when machine started causing slight humming voice and it vibrates slightly when touched. Vibrance can be felt on the desk aswell, which I find pretty uncomfortable.
So, is this normal? Or should I go and change the machine.
Thank you.

Take it back to the store immediately. You are still within the 14 day period wherein you can have it replaced or repaired at your option. After 14 days that becomes Apple's option.

Aluminum Unibody Macbook slightly unresponsive trackpad after scrolling

It has started happening as of late. It's quite bothersome though. After scrolling around or keeping my finger on the trackpad to do anything that takes some time to do, like moving something around really quick in photoshop or anything of that sort, attempting to click will almost always fail on the first attempt. Both tap to click and the physical click fail on the first attempt. It's quite bothersome and I was just curious if anyone knows what it is. Maybe it means its time for a new Macbook, but I'd rather not do that just yet.

What you're saying isn't true actually.
I work for an Authorized Apple Repair Center and we had a lot of customers complaining about the lag and unresponsiveness of trackpads in the latest generation of Unibody Macbooks.
The main issue is within the Flash 10.1 update is sometimes it is bundled with this software called "ClickForFlash" which only displays flash animations when you click on it. This causes a kernel error within Flash 10.1 that for some odd reason, directly conflicts with the operation of the trackpad.
Another reasoning is that in earlier generation (Mid 2009 and earlier) Unibody's, we've noticed that Flash 10.1 has some coding in it that refers to the trackpad's operation. By updating to the Beta Flash "SQUARE", you'll be able to eliminate this problem.
You can download this here:
http://labs.adobe.com/technologies/flashplayer10/
I hope this helps.

Uneven track pad

I have a 17 inch MBP and I notice that the track pad is uneven on the left and is on the right. The left side goes up and is a little higher than The base of the unibody. It this normal? And am I the only one that has this problem?

Alas, there doesn't seem to be any problem with performance as a result of the uneven track pad. Aside from which, there's no way to determine the reason for the uneven trackpad surface.
This is an issue that has been mentioned in Apple Forums for over four years, now. If this bothers you - and judging from the post, it does - I'd present the case at the Apple Store's Genius Bar. Apparently, you're still not under warranty, but there's a chance that that Apple might perform the repair gratis - or quote the price. I'd document the problem with similar posts to bolster your case.
I'm interested in knowing how this comes out. Post here with the results.

Uneven Seam

The iPhone 3G that I bought Saturday night has a slightly uneven seam along the side with the volume keys. In other words, while running my fingers along the other side feels quite smooth, the side with the volume keys has a noticeable ridge -- the screen half overhangs the back half slightly.
This is not an enormous problem, but it has come to annoy me already in less than 48 hours with the device.
1. Has anyone else experienced this?
2. Is this a defect?
3. If this is a defect, is the Apple Store likely to help me with an on-the-spot swap, or will I have to send it in?
Thanks for your thoughts.
PS - I can't find the search function in the Apple Discussions. Disabled at the moment?

Theres a lot of QC issues that i've come across with the iphone 3g. From faulty hardware like the home button to QC of the black finish on my phone. I'll be taking it into the store for another go at a warranty solution. I've had my first iphone 3g replaced for the faulty home button, and the replacement i got had reverse dents on the black finish on the back of the phone.
Just remember for all your QC or Software issues, the warranty is covering it.
Apple’s warranty obligations for this hardware product are limited to the terms set
forth below:
Apple, as defined below, warrants this Apple-branded hardware product against
defects in materials and workmanship under normal use for a period of ONE (1)
YEAR from the date of retail purchase by the original end-user purchaser (“Warranty
Period”). If a hardware defect arises and a valid claim is received within the Warranty
Period, at its option and to the extent permitted by law, Apple will either (1) repair
the hardware defect at no charge, using new parts or parts equivalent to new in
performance and reliability, (2) exchange the product with a product that is new
or equivalent to new in performance and reliability and is at least functionally
equivalent to the original product, or (3) refund the purchase price of the product.

Macbook display uneven

hi, my macbook pro laptop's screen seems slightly uneven. The left side seems to be slightly higher than the right side when the laptop is closed. I see more space between the screen to the base (not sure if this makes sense). Is this normal? For those with macbook pro laptop, can you guys check on that?

My screen was about 3-4mm higher on the left corner than the right and also the screen would flop forwards when the laptop was on a base which was elevated more than 30 degress (sitting it on my knee in bed or on the sofa for example).
I took it into the Bullring Apple Store and the Genius swapped it for a new one (NB: I have AppleCare & ProCare).
The new one now flops less than it did but still has a slight gap on the left but its better than before.
The Genius checked all the 17" MacBook Pros in stock and apparently this was the one with the smallest gap.
If you do have AppleCare or a machine less that 28 days old it may be worth taking it back to the store and seeing if they will swap it for a better one.

Macbook Pro Keyboard and Trackpad Not Working

few days ago, my Macbook Pro keyboard and trackpad started to act very oddly.
Basically, the keyboard doesn't work at all. I press down the keys, and all I get is that error message sound. The volume and display brightness keys seem to work, but almost all of the others just won't type anything. it-s like any key command or alt would stay pressed so when i click any key its trying to perform other function instead of just typing the letter. that-s probably the reason why the trackpad is also being very odd. When I first turn on the laptop, it seems to work as normal. I can click on an application, and it opens. But about one minute after the laptop first starts, it's like anywhere I click on the trackpad is a right-click. To open an application, I click like I normally would but instead of opening, a menu pops up as if I right-clicked. This happens in Finder and everywhere else that I've tested (for instance, I can't drag any Finder windows to different positions on the screen, because it acts as if I right-clicked instead of left-clicked), no matter whether I tap or click the trackpad.
I have reset my permissions, but that didn't fix anything. I verified the hard drive and it said there were no problems. A big issue is that I can't do anything that requires me to type in my password, since I can't type anything. I tried to reset the PRAM, but I don't think that it even registered me pressing the Command-Option-P-R keys when I booted up, so i just removed the battery for a while, i am not sure that did anything at all.
i tried to reinstall the os, i had mavericks and i installed a fresh mountain lion but the problem persists. i recently installed virtualbox and the keyboard seems to work right as long as i do not press any of the following keys command, alt, shift, etc.. if i press any of them same thing happens. i found that if i connect a usb keyboard everything works, but when i use the inbuilt keyboard the problem is back and a i have to connect disconnect the usb keyboard to be able to type or use the trackpad normally.
any help would be appreciated.
Thank you.

No one cared enough to answer.

Why does my bluetooth trackpad disappear and not reconnect?

My wireless trackpad normally paired with my iMac sometimes unpairs and the iMac can't locate it again. I've put in fresh batteries in the trackpad and run through the pairing process, but it can't be found by the iMac. Any ideas?

Oops. Nevermind. I answered my own question. The trackpad had paired itself with my nearby Macbook Pro. Once I turned off bluetooth on the laptop, the pad paired with the iMac.

IMac with virus?

After installing OS X update version 10.9.5 on my 2011 iMac, upon startup it leaves me with a grey screen with no possibility to do anything with my muse or keyboard. This happens 2 times out of 3 and I have to kill it with the switch on the wall. When it finally starts up it behaves slightly different than normal, for instance I can not view YouTube and Pages acts weird. Any one has any idea what to do.

Take each of these steps that you haven't already tried. Stop when the problem is resolved.
To restart an unresponsive computer, press and hold the power button for a few seconds until the power shuts off, then release, wait a few more seconds, and press it again briefly.
Step 1
The first step in dealing with a startup failure is to secure the data. If you want to preserve the contents of the startup drive, and you don't already have at least one current backup, you must try to back up now, before you do anything else. It may or may not be possible. If you don't care about the data that has changed since the last backup, you can skip this step.
There are several ways to back up a Mac that is unable to start. You need an external hard drive to hold the backup data.
a. Start up from the Recovery partition, or from a local Time Machine backup volume (option key at startup.) When the OS X Utilities screen appears, launch Disk Utility and follow the instructions in this support article, under “Instructions for backing up to an external hard disk via Disk Utility.” The article refers to starting up from a DVD, but the procedure in Recovery mode is the same. You don't need a DVD if you're running OS X 10.7 or later.
b. If Step 1a fails because of disk errors, and no other Mac is available, then you may be able to salvage some of your files by copying them in the Finder. If you already have an external drive with OS X installed, start up from it. Otherwise, if you have Internet access, follow the instructions on this page to prepare the external drive and install OS X on it. You'll use the Recovery installer, rather than downloading it from the App Store.
c. If you have access to a working Mac, and both it and the non-working Mac have FireWire or Thunderbolt ports, start the non-working Mac in target disk mode. Use the working Mac to copy the data to another drive. This technique won't work with USB, Ethernet, Wi-Fi, or Bluetooth.
d. If the internal drive of the non-working Mac is user-replaceable, remove it and mount it in an external enclosure or drive dock. Use another Mac to copy the data.
Step 2
If the startup process stops at a blank gray screen with no Apple logo or spinning "daisy wheel," then the startup volume may be full. If you had previously seen warnings of low disk space, this is almost certainly the case. You might be able to start up in safe mode even though you can't start up normally. Otherwise, start up from an external drive, or else use the technique in Step 1b, 1c, or 1d to mount the internal drive and delete some files. According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of available space on the startup volume (as shown in the Finder Info window) for normal operation.
Step 3
Sometimes a startup failure can be resolved by resetting the NVRAM.
Step 4
If you use a wireless keyboard, trackpad, or mouse, replace or recharge the batteries. The battery level shown in the Bluetooth menu item may not be accurate.
Step 5
If there's a built-in optical drive, a disc may be stuck in it. Follow these instructions to eject it.
Step 6
Press and hold the power button until the power shuts off. Disconnect all wired peripherals except those needed to start up, and remove all aftermarket expansion cards. Use a different keyboard and/or mouse, if those devices are wired. If you can start up now, one of the devices you disconnected, or a combination of them, is causing the problem. Finding out which one is a process of elimination.
Step 7
If you've started from an external storage device, make sure that the internal startup volume is selected in the Startup Disk pane of System Preferences.
Start up in safe mode. Note: If FileVault is enabled, or if a firmware password is set, or if the startup volume is a software RAID, you can’t do this. Post for further instructions.
Safe mode is much slower to start and run than normal, and some things won’t work at all, including wireless networking on certain Macs.
The login screen appears even if you usually log in automatically. You must know the login password in order to log in. If you’ve forgotten the password, you will need to reset it before you begin.
When you start up in safe mode, it's normal to see a dark gray progress bar on a light gray background. If the progress bar gets stuck for more than a few minutes, or if the system shuts down automatically while the progress bar is displayed, the startup volume is corrupt and the drive is probably malfunctioning. In that case, go to Step 11. If you ever have another problem with the drive, replace it immediately.
If you can start and log in in safe mode, empty the Trash, and then open the Finder Info window on the startup volume ("Macintosh HD," unless you gave it a different name.) Check that you have at least 9 GB of available space, as shown in the window. If you don't, copy as many files as necessary to another volume (not another folder on the same volume) and delete the originals. Deletion isn't complete until you empty the Trash again. Do this until the available space is more than 9 GB. Then restart as usual (i.e., not in safe mode.)
If the startup process hangs again, the problem is likely caused by a third-party system modification that you installed. Post for further instructions.
Step 8
Launch Disk Utility in Recovery mode (see Step 1.) Select the startup volume, then run Repair Disk. If any problems are found, repeat until clear. If Disk Utility reports that the volume can't be repaired, the drive has malfunctioned and should be replaced. You might choose to tolerate one such malfunction in the life of the drive. In that case, erase the volume and restore from a backup. If the same thing ever happens again, replace the drive immediately.
This is one of the rare situations in which you should also run Repair Permissions, ignoring the false warnings it may produce. Look for the line "Permissions repair complete" at the end of the output. Then restart as usual.
Step 9
If the startup device is an aftermarket SSD, it may need a firmware update and/or a forced "garbage collection." Instructions for doing this with a Crucial-branded SSD were posted here. Some of those instructions may apply to other brands of SSD, but you should check with the vendor's tech support.
Step 10
Reinstall the OS. If the Mac was upgraded from an older version of OS X, you’ll need the Apple ID and password you used to upgrade.
Step 11
Do as in Step 9, but this time erase the startup volume in Disk Utility before installing. The system should automatically restart into the Setup Assistant. Follow the prompts to transfer the data from a Time Machine or other backup.
Step 12
This step applies only to models that have a logic-board ("PRAM") battery: all Mac Pro's and some others (not current models.) Both desktop and portable Macs used to have such a battery. The logic-board battery, if there is one, is separate from the main battery of a portable. A dead logic-board battery can cause a startup failure. Typically the failure will be preceded by loss of the settings for the startup disk and system clock. See the user manual for replacement instructions. You may have to take the machine to a service provider to have the battery replaced.
Step 13
If you get this far, you're probably dealing with a hardware fault. Make a "Genius" appointment at an Apple Store, or go to another authorized service provider.

Superdrive noise & warm discs

I've just made the switch fom a windows pc & have had my 17" iMac for 6 days.
I installed the upgrade to iLife '08 & the drive was rather noisy during the process, I've tried other discs - an audio cd, a DVD & a CD of photos, which had the noise a little when they first started up. I haven't yet tried to burn any discs. The only way I can think of to describe the noise is like an old printer working!?
And all the discs were pretty warm when I ejected them.
My question is: Is this normal (cos I have no idea!)?
Thanks in advance.

with the posistion the drive is in it can show extra disc noise if the discs are slightly uneven. You'll find some discs worse than others - think its down to how good the manufacturing is. Nothing to worry about - the discs are warm from the heat generated by the drives motor - nothing to worry about. Had a number of imacs for years and all were the same - various amounts of isc noise warm discs etc.

My Macbookpro 2012 won't turn on, stuck on grey screen, logo and loading bar

It is stuck on the grey screen with the logo and the loading bar, which won't pass after 30%. If i turn it on, it shows it up again but as it reaches 33% it shuts off by itself. Please, help me. I've been searching online for resolutions but there seems to be a wide variety of ways. I'm not sure which to preform as I am scared to make a mistake and accidentally make it worse. If anyone had this problem before, is there any way to fix it without re-installing stuff? Or is there a easy an safe way to preform it? Thanks.

I have a 2011 MacBookPro and I was using iPhoto a couple of days ago when I received a software update message. I clicked OK (as the message assured me that I could continue to use my computer while updating took place). After a while I got a meesage that iPhoto needed to be closed for the software updates to be completed, but I continued working with the intention of closing it soon. After about another minute, the screen split into two panes (one third/two thirds split) and then froze. Hard shutdown didn't resolve the problem and then the screen went black. Re-starting gave me a grey screen and no functionality at all.
Repeated attempts to re-boot made no difference so I followed various peoples' suggestions on-line (using another computer). Even the Safe Mode boot (Power button plus Shift) wouldn't work, so I trekked to an Apple store to see a genius, but was told there was a two hour wait. I gave up and came back, and tried Safe Mode starting again. This time it worked (why!?) and I got into the MBP, but with the vertical screen striping and limited functionality. I tried the Safe Mode boot many times, all with the same result, but eventually I also got a message about iPhoto needing the library to be repaired. I did this (took about 30 minutes). Having done this, it still wouldn't start in normal mode, so I gave up for the evening. This morning I thought I would try once more before booking a Genius Bar slot - and all was working OK (although slightly slower than normal)!! What changed overnight I have no idea but the lesson seems to be - keep trying Safe Mode booting until it clears - very scientific!

How to develop BRF

Hi All,
I'm currently in ISU-FICA module. We now have to implement SAP Collections management in FICA. As per our client requirement I have to use BRF (not BRF+) to implement business rules. Our approach goes slightly different. Normally BRF has to be triggered from FICA Dunning, as per our client requirement we should not touch Dunning. For this reason the approach we have taken is we will have a custom program where all the customer accounts will be selected from various database tables. In order to filter the records we have up apply certain validations. Now the validations have to be built in BRF. I'm new to BRF so I need help from all of you to help me providing step-by-step procedure to create BRF using database select.
Now I'm looking at following
1. How complex it is to trigger BRF from custom program? How to trigger BRF from custom program?
2. Is it worth triggering BRF from custom program? or can I apply validations in program directly? which of these is best option?
3. My input to BRF can be a single or multiple custom account numbers, is this possible?
4. I need a step-by-step procedure for creating BRF using database selects.
Thanks,
Venkat

Hi,
Is there a technical reason why you can't use BRFplus on your project? Since BRF is superceded by BRF+, it really would be more than worthwhile going that way. My experience is really only in the BRFplus toolset and from what i've seen it is a huge step forward.
There are numerous blogs from Carston and his team on creating your first BRFplus application. For passing in tables to a BRF/BRFplus function you need to add a table type data object to the context. When calling the function, you build this internal table beforehand and then set it in the context of the function before processing it. In the BRF/BRFplus function itself, you then process the table and apply the rules required.
BRFplus has a database query expression you can use to query tables, or alternatively you can create static methods and retrieve data that way.
Hope this helps.
Regards,
Nick

Is a slightly uneven trackpad normal?

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