Is enough this power supply

hello i have an antec ea green 650w power supply and i want to know if is it enough power to run gtx 680 twin frost III graphic card
thanks i hope your opinions

http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story4&reid=110
It should work fine for a single card, but I would look more toward a single rail higher end psu. IE: Corsair AX , HX or enthusiast series.

Similar Messages

Is this Power supply suffiecent for my system?

Hi, Is this PSU powerful enough to run my computer? SILENT PUREPOWER SERIES TT-420AD, 420WATT POWER SUPPLY, +3.3V@30A;+5V@40A;[email protected];+12V@18A;[email protected];+5VSB@2A. My computers specs are as follows: AMD athlon 2700XP, 2xVdata 512mb pc3200, ATI Radeon 9700pro, Seagate SATA 80GB hardrive, Hitachi DVD ROM drive, floppy drive, MSI KT6 Delta FISR. I want to know whether this power supply will have enough power to run my setup as I brought an ICUTE 400watt power supply that couldn't manage(no doubt cause its a cheap peice of sh*t) but since Thermaltake is a decent brand I'm thinking it should manage but I just want to be sure. Cheers

Quote
Hi, Is this PSU powerful enough to run my computer? SILENT PUREPOWER SERIES TT-420AD, 420WATT POWER SUPPLY, +3.3V@30A;+5V@40A;[email protected];+12V@18A;[email protected];+5VSB@2A. My computers specs are as follows: AMD athlon 2700XP, 2xVdata 512mb pc3200, ATI Radeon 9700pro, Seagate SATA 80GB hardrive, Hitachi DVD ROM drive, floppy drive, MSI KT6 Delta FISR.
That PSU will support your configuration and then some. I have several TT Silent PurePower 420W in service - no complaints. Dual-fan PSU of good construction. Whenever Newegg puts that PSU on sale for $36.99 with free shipping (regular $42.00 plus shipping), I jump on it.
+3.3V and +5V are not a problem, you would be hard pressed to build a system that can place a combined load greater than 170W on +3.3V and +5V, even if you tried. Your system power needs on +12V rail will be (MAX LOAD):
MSI KT6 Delta FISR = .5A
Athlon 2700XP = 7.2A (AMD Datasheet)
2x V-DATA 512MB PC3200 - N/A
ATI Radeon 9700PRO = 1A (see: O/C Radeon 9800 Pro)
Seagate SATA 80GB = 2.8A
Hitachi DVD ROM = 1.5A
CPU FAN = .25A
2x CASE FAN = .5A
Max Total = 14A (rounded to the next ampere)
Edit: I should point out that 14A is the load expected if all these components are simultaneously placing their MAX load on the +12V, a condition that is virtually impossible to reproduce outside of a test lab. For instance, HDD and CD/DVD drives generate max load during disk spin-up, thereafter demanding much less current for read/write/seek operations (approx. 1A). Same with cooling fans.
A real world 'continuous' consumption figure would be in the neighborhood of 10A.

Is this power supply (A1185 10.8 V, 55Wh) compatible with New White 60W 16.5V 3.65A Laptop AC Adapter Supply Magsafe Power Charger For Apple Macbook pro A1184 A1185

Is this power supply (A1185 10.8 V, 55Wh) compatible with New White 60W 16.5V 3.65A Laptop AC Adapter Supply Magsafe Power Charger For Apple Macbook pro A1184 A1185

All of the A1181 polycarbonate MacBooks use the A1184 60W MagSafe power supply/charger and the A1185 battery. These are the Apple part numbers. Other manufacturers make equivalent replacement products, but the quality may not be acceptable.

Will this power supply work for this tower?

I plan on getting this computer
LINK
I feel like everything on the computer is adequate but the power supply is only 300W. I need more than this so I plan on using this power supply to upgrade it.
POWERSUPPLY
Can anyone tell me if this powersupply will fit and perform with the desktop I listed. Also if it does not, is there any suggestions as to what similar Watt power supply will work?
Thanks

Unless, for some reason, Asus didn't use the ATX form factor for that case, that power supply should work fine.
Unless you are upgrading other parts, hockey's concerns aren't warranted. A power supply that is "too big" is never a problem, it's actually better for the power supply because it runs at a lower load. And, the rails on that ThermalTake can manage higher amps than the stock one can, guaranteed.
It's tough to max out a 850watt PSU in a mid-size tower like that.

Will this power supply work with my PC?

Will this power supply work with my PC? I have a Compaq Presario SR5816F
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4CP1GF8726&cm_re=power_supplies_500w-_-9SIA4CP1G...
http://www.amazon.com/Solid-Gear-Series-ATX12V-SDGR-500BX/dp/B00FF7VEJE
This question was solved.
View Solution.

JCGood1984, welcome to the forum.
The computer should take a standard ATX power supply unit (PSU). I suggest measuring the existing PSU and compare the measurements to the one in the links. If the measurements are the same, it should fit. I don't know anything about the brand, however.
Please click the "Thumbs up + button" if I have helped you and click "Accept as Solution" if your problem is solved.
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Will this power supply be enought for a KM2M Combo-L Machine

Will the following work with a 145 Watt Power supply?
Basically I've got an Enlight Case I would like to use but it only has a 145 Watt Power supply.
- MSI Motherboard for AMD processors Model KM2M Combo-L
Chipset:VIA® ProSavageDDR KM266
FSB:200/266MHz
RAM:Supports four memory banks using two 184-pin DDR DIMMs or two 168-pin SDRAM DIMMs Max 2GB
IDE:Ultra DMA 66/100/133 Up to 4 Devices
Slots:1x AGP (AGP 2.0 2x/4x ) and 3 PCI 32 Bit
Ports:1xFDD,1xCOM,1xLPT,2xPS2,VGA,LAN and Audio Ports
Onboard LAN:6103 PHY 10/100 Mbs
Onboard VGA: ProSavage8 2D/3D Graphic
Onboard Audio: Realtek ALC 650
- AMD Athlon XP 1700+ Thoroughbred /266 FSB Processor CPU 1700+/ 1.47GHz
AXDA1700
CPU: 1.47 GHz
Type: 1700 XP Thoroughbred
Cache: 256K
BUS: 266MHz
Micron: .13
Socket A
- CRUCIAL MICRON 256MB 32x64 PC 2100 DDR RAM
184-Pin, CL=2.5-Unbuffered 2.5V, 6-Layers
- Maxtor 40GB 7200RPM Hard Drive Model
Size: 40 Gigabytes
Interface: IDE ULTRA ATA133
Seek time: RPM:7200
Cache 2MB
- Microsoft Multimedia Keyboard & Wheel Mouse
- Aceex V.92 Full Duplex FaxModem PCI Voice, Data, Fax Modem 56000bps Modem
- Cyberdrive 40x16x48 CDRW CD-RW Drive CW078
Buffer: 2MB
Read Speed: 48x for closed sessions.16x for open sessions. Maximum 40x for audio extraction
Write Speed 4x, 8x,12x, 16x, 20x (CLV) and 20x, 24x, 28x, 32x, 36x, 40x (ZCLV) for CD-R media. 4x, 8x, 12x and 16x CLV for CD-RW media
Access Time: 100 ms typical for random access, 100 ms typical for 1/3 stroke
Power Supply: DC +5V ?5%, DC +12V ?10%
Interface:Enhanced IDE (E-IDE)
MTBF > 100,000 POH (25% duty, seek and read)
CPU FAN|HAC-V81 BASE COPPER AMD/INTEL)
Supported Socket type: Socket A, 370, 462 Processors:
Intel P3 Cumine up to 1.13GHz, Celeron (tualatin up to 1.6Ghz)
AMD Duron up to 1.7GHz, all Athlons up to 2600+
Fan Dimension 80 x 80 x 25 mm
Rated Speed 2500 ~ 4800 RPM
Air Flow 31.4 ~ 62.8 CFM
Rated Voltage 12 VDC
Heat Sink Dimension 80 x 69 x 45 mm

Depending on what company made the PS, most companies over exagerate what they will do, or give a peak power output instead of a constant rated amprage. If thier PS will maintain a constant 200watt under full load, then it will get the job done in a all-in-1 unit. Check this page for power consumption of all your parts. It`s kinda old and the values for the VC and processors could be a bit higher, but it will give you a good idea.

Is this computer compatible with this power supply?

I was just wondering how I can tell what power supply is compatible with my motherboard? I am considering on going to bestbuy and buying a better power supply for the use of a graphics card
my new computer is a Gateway - Desktop / Intel® Core™ i3 Processor / 8GB Memory / 1TB Hard Drive
Model: DX4840-03E | SKU: 9973838
and I have an XFX PVT98GYAF3 GeForce 9800 GT 512MB 256-bit DDR3 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card
so i don't know what to get on terms of a power supply, and what is compatible with my computer. I live close enough to the Bestbuy in Moline, Illinois. So I want to get one instore not order one online

I am willing to bet that the current PSU in your computer would support the GPU you are wanting to install on the computer. That GPU is not as power-hungry as a top-end card, so won't utilize too much power.
I honestly would recommend installing the GPU first prior to spending money on a PSU you may not need. If the computer seems to not be working, you should be able to install the corsair 650w PSU into your computer without many complications -- however I would talk to a local Geek Squad Counter-intelligence agent prior to purchasing the product.
Geek Squad Mission Control Agent - Serving the Public, Policing Technology, and Protecting the World.
My replies and posts are helpful information of my own opinion. They are not, nor will they ever be, the official stance or opinion of Best Buy, Geek Squad, or any of their affiliates, subsidaries, or parent companies.

Is this power supply adequate for my system?

I have a Turbolink switching power supply
model: CWT-420ATX-12V
voltage 115/230v
current 10a/5a
frequency 60/50hz
look at my components below...

Quote
Originally posted by mcloud777
voltage 115/230v
current 10a/5a
frequency 60/50hz .
these parameters won't help anybody {except they may count your electricity bill }, buddy, cause most of even so called 420W psus will have them ....
please post maximal amperes for 5V , 12V , 3.3V rails {these are usually on the sticker on the psu itself, if you don't have the psu andor don't know it and can't get to know then DON'T BUY IT},
your components may get a little hungry and some 420 unreal watts won't help you...
post details or make everybody guess...
ok I've gathered info from http://www.iamnotageek.com/showindex.php?t=54638,
where pic is http://www.asdfhost.com/members/sirxile/My%20current%20Turbolink%20PSU%20-%2011-144-018-03.jpg:
and you should have written : (if it's the same model)
3.3V = 28A
5V = 40A
12V = 18A
=> so if you cut them in half : 3.3 = 46W , 5V=100W , 12V=108W .
by my opinion it's adequate, but if you consider some heavy OCing or adding HDDs
or whatever power consuming (peltiers ), this will turn into no-go.

Is this Power Supply and case right for my PC?

Pals...
Here I go again with a brand new question.
I want to buy a new case with the Power supply Unit in it and I have come to the decision of buying them separately.
My machine at the moment is made up of...
AMD Athlon 64 3200+ Processor Socket 939
MSI K8N Neo-4 Platinum Socket 939 motherboard
MSI NX GeForce 6600GT 128 Mb PCI-E VGA card (connected thru the PCI-E, actually)
2 521 Mb Kingston DDR Memory 400 - 3200
1 120 GB Western Digital HD PATA (with OS: Windows XP Professional SP2)
1 120 GB Seagate HD PATA (with files only)
1 Pioneer 109 DVD-RW
1 Pioneer 111D DVD-RW
1 generic Floppy
Anyway, this is the Case I want to buy
More information here...
http://articulo.mercadolibre.com.ar/MLA-22331044-gabinete-vitsuba-master-550w-fan-120mm-lcd-frontal-vtb-_JM
and this is the Power Supply
More information here
http://articulo.mercadolibre.com.ar/MLA-22621114-fuente-vitsuba-san-55-s-fuente-vtb-colosa-550w-20-24-pines-_JM
Now, In the PSU, there is a comment that it has 20-24 pins. What the hell are they? Are the Case and PSU fine for the computer I have?

vandienk,
If you know anyone coming to the U.S. I have some much cheaper options for you:
Rosewill RD600-2DC-SL 600W Active PFC Power Supply SLI Ready ATX Form Factor 12V V2.2 / SSI standard EPS 12V, 90-264V CSA,UL,TUV $68.99
MSI TurboStream 600W ATX 12V V2.2 EPS12V 600Watts Power Supply 115/230 V Safety / EMI Approvals: FCC certification $69.99
Mushkin 550200 ATX12V 550W Power Supply 115/230 V cUL,CE,CB,FCC $89.99
ePOWER ZU-600W ATX 12V v2.01 600W Power Supply 115/230 V CSA, TUV, FCC, UL $89.99
Take Care,
Richard

Is this power supply good?

A friend of mine wants me to build him a very similar system to the one i have but he's going to get a x800pro card instead of my 9800pro. I'm thinking of ordering the Antec True Blue 480 PSU for him. Do you guys think this is a good power supply? Any comments are appreciated.

So the older ones could actually be quieter?
An aluminium case is not as good for absorbing vibrational noises as a steel case but because i have back problems i can't lift a heavier case. It's hard to build a good looking, lightweight, powerful and quiet computer today because things just work against each other so much. But that's my idea of perfection.

Will this Power Supply work?

I'm getting my K8N soon, and I've spotted a new power supply that I want. It's an Aspire 500W. I won't BS with you guys - I like the LED's and the adjustable fan knob. It has the specs (max, not peak, of course) below -
3.3 - 28a
5 - 30a
12- 34a
Will this be adequate? Thanks in advance.

Thanks. I'm not really planning on putting tons of peripherals in here - 2 hard drives, a dvd drive, and a 6800 GT. If you're running it fine, it ought to handle what i'm putting in there.

Is THIS Power supply good enough??

Sorry hit the post buttin insted of the edit.
See above.
Sorry!

Quote
Originally posted by hansh
Hi Crimson,
You have a way of making a mess :D :D :D
if the question is if the Enermax EG465P-VE is powerful enough for your system, the answer is "YES".
I hope that this will solve your problem - I am not too convinced at present that the problems you describe are PSU related ... Then again, I could be wrong (would not be the first time also ) )
Hans
YOU WRONG?? NEVER HAPPEN!!! LOL BIGDADDY51 :D 8) :D :D

Should i stop using this power supply??

ok i know that i asked toooo much about my pc but forgive me i am sorry
i searched for new Power suplly but the best is only 400 watt (+12---15a)
so. should i use my one tell get an other or stop tell buy new one . is there any danger on my pc from using this week psu
thanks
my pc spec:
pro:p4 3.2 1mb cash fsb 800
board: Msi 865 PE NEO2 P SERIES
VGA : HERCULES RADEON 8500
SOUND : CREATIVE LIVE
POWER SUPLY : 300W
+3.3V 12A
+12V 12A
-12V 0.5A
+5V 22A
-5V 0.5A

Let me repeat this one last time.
You current PSU is too weak with only 300watts to spare and only 12A on +12v for a Prescott system. That's not the end. I've told you that a minimum of 18A ~ 20A is needed for any Prescott system and still you choose this 400watts with only 15A. This 15A on +12v PSU will not help out much nor long enough even if it can struggle for a few months, period at times.
Get something like Antec 430watts TruePower or Enermax 465watts or above PSU that has met the requirements of a Power Hunger Prescott.
Right now you situation is like trying to ask a person who's already starving from hunger to take 1 piece of bread per day and later told him that he can have a cup of water to go with the bread which isn't enough to kill the hunger as he needs more than what is provided.

Will this power supply work with a k9n6pgm2-v2

KINGWIN Lazer LZ-750 750W Modular 80 PLUS Certified

Quote from: Henry on 06-May-10, 12:36:25
You would be better off getting the Corsair TX650W single rail +12V~52A at newegg. Fresh price today, buy it now as it's the lowest cost it will ever be and where you live you'll get it in 2 or 3 days. It will take about 9-10 weeks to get the rebate, at least that's how long it took for mine.
$70, compare that to the price (almost 1/2) of the Kingwin and you'll be getting a much better PSU with the same 52A +12V total output.
$89.99
($69.99 after $20.00 Mail-In Rebate Card)
Free Shipping*
Edit:
Just ordered the "Corsair" through eghead, thanx!
$119.99
$10.18 Shipping* That Kingwin at newegg

Choosing the Right Power Supply

First things first. If you've got a poor-quality and/or faulty power supply, nothing else you do will work to solve your problems. Stick to the basics before you go further...The short answer is to buy a hi-powered, brand name supply, like the new ENERMAX line (430 W or higher) or ANTEC True550. Almost nothing else will do with today's computers. In over 30 years of electronic/computer service, I have found that 85% or more of problems were power-related.
If you want to know more, read on...
Choosing The Right Power Supply
If you’re reading this, there’s a good chance that one of my colleagues or I believe that you could be experiencing problems with your power supply, based upon the symptoms you mentioned in your post, and provided you with this link. Relax, you’re not alone. In 30 years of electronic and computer troubleshooting, I’d say that the majority of the electronic, mainframe, mini, and microcomputer problems I’ve diagnosed and repaired were with the basic power the problematic device was receiving. The symptoms often included random reboots, crashing, the BSOD, lockups, etc.
(As the national support technician for few major computer service companies, working US Defense contracts, I was often the person that had to fly in and correct the problem, or “walk through” the on-site technician as he closely followed my instructions. I achieved success in my career by carefully reading the manuals, knowing where to go for more information that was otherwise unavailable to me, and/or systematically troubleshooting until the problems were discovered and repaired. I never had the option of giving up.)
The most overlooked component when building or upgrading a PC is the power supply unit (PSU). Some people use their old case and PSU when they upgrade. Some use the PSU that came with their new case. Some people even buy a new PSU. And most inexperienced builders all make the same mistake: The PSU that they’re trying to use is simply inadequate for the job.
Suppose you’re upgrading to a new motherboard, CPU, ram, and video card, but still using the old case and PSU. It’s most likely that you’re upgrading in order to build a machine that is more powerful, faster, has a more colorful display, can number-crunch more quickly, play the latest games, etc. These gains in performance all have one thing in common: They require more raw power. However, have you thought about where that power comes from?
Suppose you’re building a new system with a new case and PSU. Has it occurred to you that the company that you bought the case/PSU from might make more money if they skimp on the supply, even if the supply has a large wattage rating? Most bulk power supply manufacturers don’t make good PSU’s. They use older, cheaper technology, and slap on labels that represent the PSU’s peak outputs, and not their continuous output rating. These companies are intentionally misleading you in order to sell you an inferior product. Brands I avoid when building/repairing my friends’ and family’s computers: Allied, Q-Tec, Chieftech, and many others.
For those of you who bought a power supply separately, did you know that you’re only supposed to run a power supply continuously at 30-70% (with 50% being optimal) of its continuous rating for maximum efficiency (which means less heat to you)? Most inexperienced builders either buy PSU’s that are matched to their equipment’s continuous power usage, or ones that are even less powerful than they need. Why? Because they’re trying to save money.
I mean, what’s the fun in a power supply? You don’t get any games with it, there’s no more storage, hardly ever any more bells and whistles, etc. A power supply is boring, and it’s supposed to be, because it’s supposed to provide a stable, reliable platform upon which the rest of the equipment can easily access the amount of power it needs, and when it’s needed. In almost EVERY review of powers supplies, the same point is stressed: Better safe than sorry.
But what does safe vs sorry mean? It can mean that you don’t have to waste money on the wrong PSU in the first place, but it can also mean that you don’t have to replace your expensive ram, CPU, video card, etc. NEEDLESSLY, or because your cheap PSU destroyed them. What? A cheap power supply can wreck your computer? YES IT CAN. A cheap power supply can cause thermal damage, not only from the heat it produces, but also the heat it can create in your components as well. RAM is especially sensitive to heat, and there’s RAM in your CPU, your video cards, and, well, your RAM too. A cheap switching power supply, run at its maximum, or peak, continuously can also destroy components by creating RF (Radio Frequency) signals on your power rails, signals which the components on your peripheral devices were not equipped to handle in the first place.
So this begs the question, how does one choose the right power supply? I’ll illustrate this using my own PC as the example. This is my setup that I use for video processing:
K7N2G-ILSR
Athlon 2500+ Barton @ 2125Mhz
AMD Retail Heatsink/Fan
2 - 512MB DDR333 w/Thermaltake Spreaders (slot 1&3)
MSI TV@nywhere Video Capture
ATI Radeon 9600
120GB Maxtor DiamondMax Plus 9 SATA
30GB Quantum IDE
TEAC DV-W50E DVD/CD-R/W
BTC DVD-ROM Drive
Artec CD-R/W
Using this Power Supply Calculator link:
http://www.jscustompcs.com/power_supply/
I plug in all my equipment values, but some of this can be a little tricky. For example, since I often run the CPU like an XP 3000, I choose the 3000 as my processor; it’s the same chip run at the faster rate. I also choose the ATI Radeon video card, and I select the RAM wattage for 2 sticks of DDR. I also choose every card I have, like my video capture card, but I also select the boxes for the separate cards that correspond to the functions that my ILSR provides as well (and that I use), like sound, USB, Firewire, NIC, etc. Although I use the onboard SATA controller, I don’t select the SCSI PCI card, because, in truth, I’ve probably made up for it by selecting all the other corresponding devices, including cards that the motherboard replaces. I check the boxes for the fans and drives I use, and I’m done, right?
Not yet.
I just remembered that I plan to upgrade soon, so I go back and change the values to reflect my impending changes. I mean, I want to make sure that I have enough power to begin with so that I don’t have to replace the power supply again, right?
Ok. Done. I look at the bottom and see that it tells me that I need a 468 watt PSU. So a 480 watt supply will do, right? Wrong.
Remember that, for efficiency, long-life, and less heat, you want your actual power consumption to fall between 30-70% of the PSU’s rating, so add 30% (minimum) to the 468, and you get 468 + (468*.30)= 608 Watts! Holy Cow!
However, I’d only need a 608-Watt supply if I was using all the devices at once, and I don’t. But, in truth, with video and audio processing, I often get close when I process, burn, and monitor at the same time. (Hardcore gamers also get close a lot, as they blast the sound and push that video to its limits.) So, let’s take off 10% (maximum) of 608, for a total of 541 Watts.
I need a 550 Watt supply, but not just ANY 550 watt PSU. I need a supply that can give me enough power on the critical 3.3, 5, and 12V rails combined. I also want a supply from a trusted, name-brand manufacturer, so I start hitting the many online reviews. Here are just two from Tom’s Hardware:
http://www6.tomshardware.com/howto/20030609/index.html
http://www6.tomshardware.com/howto/20021021/index.html
Read these in their entirety. I didn’t post them because they’re pretty links.
In the end, I chose Antec, because they’ve got the reputation, the recommendation, and because the Antec True550 has better specs than the rest of the 550 Watt competition. I also bought it from a reputable company I found on Pricegrabber.com, for the lowest price I could find, $95.00 shipped to my door. (In truth, I wanted two mini-redundant supplies, like the hospitals and military use, but they were too expensive.)
The result? Not only are the random reboots, crashing, the BSOD, lockups, etc., gone like magic, but I also now have “peace of mind” in that whatever might happen to my equipment in the future, I know almost for certain that the PSU is NOT the problem. I also bought an UPS, because the East Coast Blackout proved to me that even the Antec True550 isn’t going to provide me any power for emergency shutdown if it doesn’t get its power from somewhere.
Even if your problem doesn’t lie in the PSU completely, it gives you a GREAT platform for troubleshooting further. If you’re not reasonably certain that the supply is the cause, borrow one, or buy one that you can return once you’ve solved the problem. But, above all else, BUY THE RIGHT SUPPLY before you do anything else! Otherwise, you could be plugging and unplugging components, buying and blowing up expensive memory, and causing even further damage, until you give up or die.
I mean, I assume you built your own system to enjoy “more bang for your buck,” right? What’s the fun of a random reboot in the middle of Unreal Tournament 2003?
William Hopkins
Former Staff Sergeant, USAF
B.A., B.S., with Honors
The University of California, San Diego
[email protected]
P.S. It should be noted that while Enermax, ThermalTake, Zalman, Fortron, and others make great PSU’s, and I compared and considered them, the Antec still won out overall in my critical evaluation, like it did in so may others’ reviews. You’d probably be ok if you went with another reputable manufacturer as listed above, but pick a supply that gives you at least 230 watts on the 3.3 and 5V lines combined, and still meets the 30% criteria as stated above. Remember, if the manufacturers don’t give you maximum combined specs up front, they’re untrustworthy right off the bat. With power supplies, you definitely end up getting what you pay for. Don’t say nobody warned you.
P.P.S. Update! After recent developments, it looks like Enermax is the leader, but only the latest line of PSU's.

Ok, as an electrical engineer...I have to step in here! LOL
First, these amp rating are for 2 +12 rails. That is why you see a protection of around 15-18A on the +12 rail. That means each Rail is allowed up to 18A lets say for the new Enermax 1.2 version like the one I have.
Now, Lets say 18A for 12V....well as you know the Abit NF7-S uses the 12V for powering the CPU.
Lets say you have a Barton like me and you want it stable at around 2.4-2.5Ghz. You will have to put lets say around 2V to the cpu to get it stable at that kinda speed, specially if you have high FSB like I do. So 12V * 18Amps = 216W ....well the converter on the NFS-7 is really bad, its loss on the step down convertion is probably around 25% along with the PSU lost cuz its not running at 25oC (another 15%)....you will actually only get around 100-120W for the CPU.
Now, if you go into Sandra and see how much a Barton eats up at 2.4Ghz you will see its around 110Watts.
So, if you wanna push more, dont even think about it! Prime Power test fails and your +12 rail will drop as low as 11.60 Volts.
Now, lets say you got yourself a AMD 64 bit chip and you wanna overclock it....I bet it will need more than 110Watts.
So, what im saying is, dont buy nothing less than a 500 Watt PSU!
You really need around 20-22 A on the main +12 along with really really good cooling on the case and PSU so it is running at a 100%.
http://forums.amdmb.com/showindex.php?s=&threadid=287828
i found this quite interesting especially the bit re the power loss turning the 12v into 1.6v or what ever cpu needs

Is enough this power supply

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