K8N Diamond Plus, SLI and Creative X-Fi cards, anyone running similar?

Hi there!
I've got an ASUS A8N32-SLI board and my X-Fi card does not work with it, nor does it for many other people with similar setups.
See here:
http://forums.creative.com/creativelabs/board/message?board.id=soundblaster&message.id=31426
and here:
http://forums.creative.com/creativelabs/board/message?board.id=soundblaster&message.id=26289
I get crackling and popping noises when running most games, e.g. BF2, Fear, FarCry. When my 2x7800GTX's are in SLI mode it crackles loads, e.g. start far cry, click options, and listen. When i disable SLI mode it crackles less, but it still crackles. Many others encounter similar issues with their systems that are not identical but the symptoms are similar - high load = crackling/popping.
My question is:
Is anyone here sucessfully running any X-Fi card (music, fatality, elite pro, etc) with 2x video cards and NO crackling/popping in BF2, FEAR and FarCry?
I've already had a replacement X-Fi card from creative which their tech guy said "should" fix it, lol, I'm wondering wether to replace my A8N32-SLI with an K8N Diamond Plus to fix the problem. Besides, the MSI board has better PCI slot location and works with nTune too unlike the ASUS board.

What's going on guys.
I hate to see peep's having soooo many prob's and it sucks major BALLZ. The reason why I'm reposting is that I encountered a new issue. Not with my rig, but a friend's.
We pretty much have the same setup. Differences are he's using 2GB of Corsair DDR400 (which is picking up as DDR333 as well), different branded video cards (I'm running two EVGA 7800GT's in SLi, he's running two BFG 7800GT's in SLi), XFi Platinum (me, Fatality Edition) and he's got a dedicated ITE RAID PCI card for his RAID from his previous rig. Configured his BIOS pretty much the same way I have it running (he wanted to Overclock his AMD x2 4400+ to 2.6 GHz), but when it came to installing Windows we kept getting BSOD's during installation. Looked over things numerous times and it didn't make sense. We resetted the BIOS to default settings and Windows went through without a hitch. We tried OC'ing it one more time and Windows was fine. But, when he installed and ran Quake 4, either Windows or the game would just lock up. He booted back into the BIOS and put the CPU back at stock frequency of 2.2 GHz. Game ran flawlessly afterwards. That points at the processor. The only differences were we both have different stock fans and his CPU was manufactured in July '05. Mine in Sept '05. His rig also reports the infamous "Phantom" PCI modem as well.
Quake 4 is the only game he's got installed so far, but he reports everything is set to their highest qualities, including resolution. He said it runs great with no anomalies. He's going to install Dawn of War and Winter Assault later I know.
Me? I haven't run into any issues with any games either, including F.E.A.R. as Hydrasworld asked. Both of our sound cards are in the Communication PCI Slot of the motherboard. My take on the OC issue is since we're using different proc's from different wafers, maybe my chip had revisions in September that the July proc my friend has didn't. Also, his heatsink has one less copper pipe I noticed. I'll still drop by for help. Good luck to you all and the only other thing I can add is try using the latest drivers for each piece of hardware you've got.
LPB
P.S. If you can and you purchased a retail version of the processor, on one of the sides of the carton insert for the processor, a date should be printed. Maybe that can explain some issues. Once more, my proc was manufactured September 15th, 2005.

Similar Messages

K8n diamond plus sli link card

bought a open box k8n diamond plus from newegg and it didn't come with a sli link card
to go between the 2 video cards.
where can I buy one?
thanks

newegg was of no help.
I got ahold of msi and they're sending me one.
thanks.
it was a open box board that turned out to be just a board LOL.
i'm still looking for the full install of the creative software.
the drivers load but none of the base creative software is in the
msi downloads.
so digicell can't fine the creative programs.
i upgraded the bios to 1.20 and am waiting for the sli bridge
so i can put the other 7900gt ko 512meg card in.
runs good with just one, it should run even better when both are in.
thanks again.

K8N Diamond plus HSF and memory compatability question

I am considering this board since I need a good onboard sound chip to utilize my front breakout box. At this time I have an opteron 180, a Zalman 7700 and 2 gb kit of Corsair XMS TWINX2048-3500LLPRO on the way from ZZF. I had planned on using this on an Asus A8N SLI deluxe but if the hardware is compatible I would rather have the SB onboard than the Realtek on the Asus.
Does anyone know if the Zalman will fit on this board and clear the northbridge heatsink and fan? I had seen in another post the the MSI boards might not care for Corsair to well, any validation on this?
Thanks!

Tricker61,
As you can see by my signature I am using the Diamond Plus with a full two pair of TWINX2048-3500LLPRO’s.
It was not plug them in a go, but it just requires setting the memory up manually, which is really set forward.
The only problem is that the current BIOS do not the memory to SPD values and here is a list of setting you will have to set manually.
(1)   FSB/Memory Ratio is set by default to 1:2, which needs to be changed to 1:1.
(2)   Memory Module Voltage Corsair spec is 2.7 – 2.9, default BIOS setting is 6.5V. I am running mine at 2,75V.
(3)   Corsair spec timing 2,3,2,6, BIOS Default is 2,3,2,5 so you need to set that.
As far as memory set for your Corsair memory you have they are working fine and system is stable.
You wanted 2.6 GHz; I am currently run FSB of 225 MHZ and with default multiplier of x12, which is one BIOS defaults that is correct. My system running solid at 2.7 GHz and the memory is running DDR450, which better the Corsair spec.
Therefore, with the memory modules you should get the performance you said you wanted. I feel with all the memory setting corrected I could running it up more, first 225 MHz is the speed I could not make with default BIOS setting and I am not and Over-clocker like you, if want a good solid fast system.
If you have not purchased a case yet, make it a big one with lots of fans. I am using the Cooler Master CM Stacker 810 and have just moded the case to add two extra right side 120mm input fans in place of the stock 80mm fan and I am just starting to get the system temperatures under control. With to two new fans that makes 4 120mm input fans and 120mm, 85mm and the power supplies 135mm fan for exhaust. I have been using 120mm fan with 35 to 40 CFM each, to try and keep the noise down, but it looks like an a few more CFM to input fans and put up with the added. But it is a nice system now, you the noise of the air flow , but no actual fan sounds, except for the Graphics Card when is cycles it fan to high speed, which much less with two add right side 120mm fans.
Hope this information helps you selecting components for your new system.
Roger
When submitting a problem, include a complete list of your system components; include part numbers, all Power Supply Voltages, and their output ratings. It is almost impossible to estimate what your problem is without knowing something about it.

Strange findings with K8N DIamond/Platinum SLI and BIOS 3.6

Having toiled for weeks trying to get my machine to run at 1T timings fully stable at memory speed 550DDR, I have finally done it.
What you have to do is this...make sure that your NB voltage is the same or greater than your CPU Voltage.
I had my CPU at 1.45+6.6% =1.546v and my NB at 1.5v. This would not work.
I found out by accidentally putting 1.6v through the NB and Voila!
Not only that but the RAM is now doing great at 285MHz (570DDR with 2.5-4-4-8 1T at 2.80v).
All been stable through all benchmarks and SuperPi/Memtest for 2 days in total now.
Updating my profile to match.
My God it feels good.
I hope that this helps some folk who have stability problems in any area.
K6dude

I have not tried the 3.7 BIOS, as it is all working well. I don't want to inherit any new bugs...I'll wait until someone tests it all properly.
I wish that the 183 mem divider would be put back, I'm having to adjust it from 166 to 183 with A64Tweaker on startup.
Anyone know if 3.7/1.7 has the 183 divider?
Yes I was only successful current CPU speed with BIOS 3.2, 3.5 and 3.6, so try 3.6 and maybe 3.7 with my settings...you might be lucky.
After you have flashed your BIOS, reset the CMOS button TWICE...and make sure that the PSU has no power going into it and you have no seperately powered USB devices attached while you reset it (This has found to be the case for me with my USB Keyboard/mouse devices), otherwise it will not reset properly and some of your old bugs could still be there.
What week Venice CPU do you have...0517 is mine and it is so far one of the best batches...this could make a difference in some cases.
K6dude

K8N Diamond Plus BIOS problems

Hi , just replaced my lanpartyUT sli-dr expert with K8N Diamond Plus mobo and having problems allready :D
Just finished overclocking and now running at (250 x 11 x 800mhz x 1.300v+0.2v x dram/fsb 1/1 x 2.80v)
Memory timings --> (3,7,14,3,2,8,2,2,1,3,200mhz(15.6us),1,16x,7x,7ns,5ns,0clk,DiCC:enabled,1T,8beats,reduce 00%... ...)
The problem is "BOOT" related... System is PRIME95 stable , but still when trying to "restart windows" or "reset" the system wont BOOT !!?
When i shutdown and then power up, the system boots perfectly !? What can cause this kind of behaviour :/
I have OC:d quite many systems , but this is new even to me

The windows core program shows htt link 1000mhz exact. Memory settings are all "manually" adjusted. Cpu vcore is 1.300 & extra voltage 0.2v=1.5v.
All ECC options are disabled.Hdd:s adjusted manually. Should i rise the (NB) voltage , or does that have anything to do with this !? Maybe not at 250fsb only :D Cool & quiet is disabled naturally :/ All fan controls disabled , connected directly to psu. No D.O.T,s or anything automatic overclocking enabled. The (L cache & data cache scrubs) are strange to me, so those are disabled.After flashed bios , enabled boot sector protection. All the mobo power connectors are in use (24pin+8pin+4pin) Could it be that the memory modules should be used on ports 3 & 4 (now on 1 & 2) ??
The mushkin redline xp4000 memory specs Fortron Epsilon 700W Psu specs
Output Voltage Min. load Max. load      Load Reg.     Ripple & Noise
Frequency:   500MHz +5V     0.5A     30.0A     +-5%     50mV P-P
Latency:   3-3-2-8 +12V1   0.0A     18.0A     +-5%     120mV P-P
Parity:   Unbuffered +12V2   0.0A     18.0A     +-5%     120mV P-P
Voltage:   2.6V-2.9V +12V3   0.9A     18.0A     +-5%     120mV P-P
Module:   128MX64 +12V4   0.1A     18.0A     +-5%     120mV P-P
Chip:   64MX8 +3.3V   0.8A     36.0A     +-5%     50mV P-P
Pins:   184 -12V     0.0A     0.8A     +-10%     120mV P-P
+5Vsb   0.0A     3.0A     +-5%     50mV P-P

Clicks with K8N Diamond Plus

Guys,
Maybe some one here can solve this one.
As you can see in my sig: I have a K8N Diamond Plus board and I love it! Rest of the specs are in my sig as well. I have a weird thing with it for some time, but it seems to be getting worse or, putting it right, it occurs more and more.
The pc is running just fine. Sometimes there's coming two clicks out of the case, about 1/2 a second after each other. It sounds like a mechanical something, but I'm unable to locate where it comes from. The pc simply keeps on working. No hangs, no BSOD's, it's fine. The only thing is that the sound is interupted shortly with each click.
To make it visible:
------------------click-----click-------------
- = computer noise
# = music playing
When I watch a movie, the same happens. Video-playback, however, isn't interupted at all.
Does anyone have any suggestion what this could be?
Thanks!
Hans
PS: I had a simular setup first with the K8T Neo2 board. The problem never occured with that board, so I asume it's the mobo that's doing this somehow.

Quote from: Hans on 20-December-06, 18:37:28
Well, I'm unable to find any problems. There's no data losses or whatever.
@Bosskiller: are you saying that this could be normal?
Do you know if WD Raptors make this sound? Or maybe Seagate Barcuda's (SATA-II)?
The more I try to locate the sound, it looks like it's one of the Raptors (or both).
yes sound normal for me, for Raptor don't know, for seagate think no, HITACHI(my currently doing the same), and Maxtor(DM 9 got before also making click/click)

Anoying issue with K8N Diamond PLUS and overclocking.

I just got the motherboard wehn i overclock and restart the PC either from windows or BIOS etc. The PC will not boot and have to turn it off then turn back on. Apart from this annoying issue it's a great board better theen my A8N SLi Premium mostly due to the extra CPU voltage yay :D Is anyone else getting this issue?
System spcs are
AMD Athlon64 X2 4400+ @ 2766MHz (1.6v)
2GB Crucial Tracer PC4000
2x DELL Slient Geforce 7800GTX 256MB card
Espison 700w SLi cert PSU with EPS CPU voltage connected
Koolance EXOS AI Watercooling
MSi K8N Diamond PLUS
2x 150GB Raptor X in RAID-0
Coolermaser RC-830 w/ 4x 140mm + 3x 120mm fans

thats funny mine did that when i first got it , but when i received my new memory and video card everything was normal...so i dont remember if it was the memory or the VC..i just totally forgot about it..funny though i thought it was only me

K8N Diamond Plus and Opteron 175

Anyone running a K8N Diamond Plus and an Opteron 175 ok?
Any problems?
Any tips?

Quote from: skippy9146 on 20-January-06, 08:51:51
They should run fine... as a Diamond Plus comes with a Dual Core compatable BIOS.
You'll have to post back with some news when you get it together.... I have a 165 that needs a new home.
thanks for the reply, i kinda figured it might support it, as the M8N Diamond does (accordingto the cpu support list) but MSI's site doesn't seem to have much info about the K8N Diamond plus, not even a single bios upgrade or anything.
I have an ASUS A8N32-SLI but i have 3 issues with it:
1) can't install vista 5270 - common problem, not just me
2) poor pci slot location when using 2 pci-express dual width gfx cards
3) only available pci slot shares an IRQ with 2nd gfx card, bad for sound cards
I was going to order one this weekend but i might just not bother now as someone else posted the xfi cards don't work with them (popping/crackling, just like i have now) and that was my main motivation for getting rid of my asus board as my xfi card doesn't work either.

WANTED! - List of IRQs and Hardware for K8N Diamond Plus?

Hi there!
I'm trying to find out what hardware shares IRQs on the MSI K8N Diamond Plus motherboard.
I want to use an X-Fi card in the bottom (orange) PCI slot, and 2x 7800GTX cards in the PCI-Express x16 slots and would like to know if any of the devices will share IRQ's with onboard hardware.
You can list your IRQs by running msinfo32 - start, run, msinfo32 [enter], then click expand the following item in the tree System Summary -> Hardware Resources -> IRQs.
You can export the IRQ's in msinfo32, make sure the IRQ list is displayed, then click file/export, then save to a text file. Open the text file with notepad and copy and paste your results to your reply below.
I'm trying to find out whether an MSI K8N Diamond Plus will have less conflicts or less important conflicts than a ASUS A8N32-SLI.

There are 4 PCI IRQs called INTA#, INTB#, INTC# and INTD#.
These INTx# are interrupts and are level sensitive, this means that the electrical singnaling allows for them to be shared among all PCI cards. All single device/ function PCI cards that use only 1 interrupt must use INTA# as this is one of the rules in the PCI spec. If there are additional devices within a chip or on-board a card then these additional devices can use INTB#~INTD#, since there are very few multifubtion PCI boards (none that I know of right off my head) this means that most or all devices will use INTA#.
With that said; you do not really need to worry about hard wired INTA#~INTD# at board level.
If you are using Win XP I would not even worry about IRQs as Windows uses "Virtual IRQ routing" which simply means Windows XP will assing IRQ to each device and XP handles this extremly well.

K8N Diamond Plus... Lots o Crashes, and other wierdness

Well, gotta new build here. Ran fast and hard from an Abit A8N SLI that was never stable, after 5 months of tinkering.
Moved to the Diamond Plus SLI X16. Never had an MSI before, but had lots of the others (Asus, Epox, Abit, ECS, PCChips, etc) and am so far pretty happy.
However, there are some strange things happening as I iron out the bugs.
No BSODs fortunately yet to speak of, but plenty o crashes when exiting FarCry, Quake etc. Never during the game, but when I exit it blows up. Also, lots of graphics distortion, which I never had before.
The thing'll run Prime stable for hours with stock settings for everything plus OCZ mem settings specifically for this mobo (1T).
But the crashing while exiting is wierd. The windows dump file has no reference to drivers or anything else, niether does the event viewer, so I have no leads, especially as I'm not that experienced in this Mobo yet.
I have the latest Nforce and Geforce drivers. The thing is pretty stable, but gets a little wierded out in games.
Ideas greatly welcomed, no matter how hairbrained (but please don't tell me its my power supply )

Nanohead,
First off this is not criticism, but the Diamond Plus uses AMD Hyper Transport Technology more than any MB I seen, there may be high end severs that use it more, but I am not into that.
If you are going to be OC, the Diamond Plus you are going to have known something, a lot, about HT or you MB is going to be unstable.
The lay out of the BIOS HT parameters may not be prefect, but it is not bad for a companies first draft and that is what its.
With HT the timing and bandwidth between Processor, Northbridge and Southbridge is all variable in word length and clock speed. If you do not have them all set correctly you reduce system stably and throughput.
Because to be the maximum performance out of the system yon not only have to tune FSB, Memory Clock and all memory parameters. You are now PCI Express Bus parameters and HT parameters tune. You will notice I did not say adjust, they now need to be tuned, because they all have to be running just the right data rate or you will get corrupted data. Anyone of the subsystems now running to slow or to fast can crash the system.
And right now the Diamond Plus is stall a mix of old and new Technologies and everything has to be tuned manually or just leave it a factory default values, which will not be the fastest the system will run, but it hopefully will be the most stable.
The days of just cranking up the clocks to OC your compute are over.
Roger
When submitting a problem, include a complete list of your system components; include part numbers, all Power Supply Voltages, and their output ratings. It is almost impossible to estimate what your problem is without knowing something about it.

K8N Diamond Plus and MBM5

Anybody got MotherBoard Monitor 5 or Speedfan, working with the K8N Diamond Plus
I need to configure my LCD on my keyboard and can take values of temperatuer only from these two programs.
The programs to create custom screens on the LCD is the LCD studio.
If anybody got it to work please enlight me

Neither of those progs have support for the Diamond Plus...as stated, Everest Ultimate does though.
Quote from: kingdomwinds on 30-April-06, 04:15:40
BTW this is offtopic but can you get read write queue bypass to 16x? I set mine to 16x but it shows up as 8x in windows. Same with the idle cycle limit. I set it to 256 but i shows up as 16. Really retarded mobo IMO
I have both set at 16x and 256 respectively without problem

Water cooling and the K8N Diamond Plus...

I have a water cooled DFI mobo atm and I want to change it to the K8N Diamond Plus and I noticed that the board has a heat pipe on the northchip and on some other component. My question is this; I want to put a water block on the northchip but I don't know if I can. Can I safely remove the heat pipe setup to put a water block on the north chip and if I do what about the other component that the heatpipe was covering? I hope I wasn't to confusing in the explanation.

Hello !!
You will need two Waterblocks, one for the north- second one for the southbridge.
There should be no Problems mounting the blocks if the mounting holes fit the mainboard.
You can easily remove the Heatpipe. You have to squeeze those nipples togehter tha are on the backside of the board. You can do it manually but you can also use a cylindric tool to squeeze them together. I cut a plastic pen i the half, and pushed it on those mounting latches carefully.
___|\ half pen
latch___ <----
|/ ___________
After this procedure the Heatpipe is only held from the thermal grease on the chipset.
Greetz

I need help DDR voltage and latencies (K8N Diamond Plus)

I noticed my DDR voltage was incorrect in the bios and I don't know what "Auto" is doing with my timings. I have 2GB of Corsair TWINX2048-3200C2 DDR400 Memory installed on DIMM1 and DIMM2 of my K8N Diamond Plus board.
So far I've made the following changes (as my RAM's specs indicate) in the BIOS but I'm new to this (first build).
DDR Voltage 2.75V
CAS 2.0
tRCD 3
tRP 3
tRAS 6
I left everything else at it's default setting. Are there any other changes I should make?

Quote from: memeticvirus on 14-May-06, 15:41:10
I'm having an issue with the 1.10 BIOS that is preventing me from manualy setting the timings...The problem I'm having right now is deciding what BIOS to install and where to download it. Perhaps you could help me with that?
With pleasure! I had the same problem with the v1.10 BIOS, as did another member here. I flashed BACK to the v1.0 BIOS (make sure to use the command line switched (just run the batch file)) and was able to set timings, and then I flashed directly to the 3.0A BIOS and was able to adjust timings still. See my old thread here.
For my success (I don't know if any or all of these influenced it, but I'm just happy it works) in flashing I did the following:
Download the 1.0 (original) and 3.0A (latest "official") BIOS images from MSI's support site.
Downloaded the DrDos BIOS flash bootable ISO CD image from bootdisk.com
Used my ISO software to add the BIOS image files onto the ISO image.
Burned the ISO to CD.
Booted from the CD
Flashed to 1.0
Cut Power (flipped PSU switch in back), held down the CMOS reset switch button on the mobo and the power button for 45 seconds.
Powered up, set "Optimized Defaults" and set memory voltage to 2.75v and rebooted.
Set all "normal" BIOS parameters (boot devices, et al).
Windows (x64) loaded with no issues, Everest reported timings appropriately
Did the same procedure for the 3.0A BIOS, with similar success.
You can see my post or click on the link in my sig for detailed memory reports.
Quote from: RogerP on 15-May-06, 03:04:55
Are you running just one set of TWINX2048-3200C2's?
Just one pair. I fiddled with the CR and the only result was with the single known good DIMM my latency got slightly slower (like a 5ns drop), but still no love with 2 DIMMS. I think it is just dead. But this is not my story (at least not in this thread)...this is memticvirus's story.

MSI K8N Diamond Plus - Guide to my first week

OK, not a newb here, but been around the block quite a bit. MSI K8N Diamond Plus is my 5th A64 mobo (ECS K8M800, my daily undestroyed computer, K8T800, my 12 year olds gamer, Asus A8V Deluxe, first 939 system, Abit AN8 SLI, first SLI gamer, and now the MSI Diamond Plus). Had the KDP (K8N Diamond Plus) for more than a week now, and here's what I've learned.
This is state of the art again, and we have no one to blame but ourselves for the pain this causes us when we upgrade like lunatics
And as usual, the drivers and BIOS are al Dente (i.e. not cooked enought yet, a little raw)
MSI is also oddly silent on this system, which is wierd, as they are a large company, and specifically cater to enthusiasts. But their BIOS guys are MIA. Hopefully this will not be forever. Asus, ABIT, DFI, Epox are always fast with fixes
The board is a nice design, with everything basically accessible, as much as any other board. Lots of purposeful components, not too many dumb frills. No tooty fruity colors, but rather practical parts.
The new 2 piece NForce chipset is fine, and the MSI guys gave us a decent, but funky cooler. It gets a little warm to the touch when you pound on it with Prime95, or Quake4, but other than that it is fine
The manual has a zillion typos, and fortunately for us in this forum, we have shared what we've learned. The translation from Chinese to English leaves quite a bit to be desired, and hopefully, MSI will learn from Asus and Abit and get a better translation service. In 2006 this is just plain stupid, especially with a $225 board
As usual, the mobo supplied tweaker utilities are just aweful. They look like a hallucination from a Hunter S Thompson book, and they work about as well. Core center is a sad state of affairs, and the rest of them just burrow their way into your otherwise stable system and cause it to have poor behavior. And therefore as usual, the BIOS is the best way, if slowest, to tweak this bundle of parts
Which brings us to the BIOS. IMHO, the worst one I've seen on a high end board. ZERO explanation for half the settings (this is not strange in and of itself, BIOS is still a black art, but in a tweakers board, we should have some basic explanation )
There seem to be adequate settings in the BIOS for all sorts of doodads and gizmos, but who the heck knows what half of them are. Roger points out rightfully, that we now need to "Tune" across all these different intermediary bus structures and test. But with the lack of info from either NVidia, MSI or anyone else for that matter, its kinda hard to know where to start.
The board is clearly sensitive, which is a result of it being high strung. This is no different than any "first out" product I've ever bought. Most take 2 or 3 turns of the crank to get totally stable and forgiving. This one hated my OCZ platinum EL 2Gb kit memory, and it brought out the worst in one of the SLI based EVGA 7800 GT COs. These components worked in the Abit AN8 SLI (although not always great), but the MSI has ZERO tolerance for even the slightest pertubation from the memory. It was BSOD city until I removed both of these components by process of elimination that took probably 100 hours
Once I removed the bad components, and replaced the memory with Geil Ultra X 2x512 2-2-2-5, it worked great, ran Prime95 for 10 hours with no errors, and seems reasonably stable. I've RMA-d the bad 7800GT CO back to EVGA, and will report back on how SLI behaves when I get the new one (cross shipped of course, I haveno patience )
I also now need to replace the 2Gb RAM kit with something that the board will tolerate. I may RMA the 2Gb kit back to OCZ and try another one, but I dunno. I love OCZ but I have a bad feeling about this, even though they have great!!! support. I may try OCZ PC4000 or the RAM that Roger successfully used.
I did upgrade to the 1.16 BIOS, and found that some new things were added, as well as voltage control in Cell was a little better, but registration of changes in voltage is still a disaster. I adjusted a bunch of times, it didn't register, and I ended up smoking a new A64 3700+ Diego with 1.95 volts, even though the BIOS claimed it was 1.53. I had to rebot to see what was going on. The Thermalright XP-90 kept the proc from melting down through the earth
Finally, I hope this board attracts more people, and therefore more tweakers that can figure out all these gadgets and settings. Everyone flocked to the Asus X16 SLI product, which is too bad, as this one needs lots o' folks to hack it up for us to figure out what is going on.
The on board Creative audio sounds lousy to my ears, and I will replace it with an Audigy 2ZS gamer that I had in the Abit. It just sounds better, but hopefully the drivers will not trash my newly stable system. Creative scares me, they scare me alot.
I've been able to get the CPU up to 2.4Ghz, with a .5 volt bump to the CPU and 2.9 volts into the Geil memory. So far, so stable, no smoke coming out yet
I hope this info is somewhat valuable to someone on this board. I will post details of all changes that I make, as others are doing, so we can at least take care of ourselves with this thing.

Quote from: nanohead on 15-February-06, 01:17:10
Which brings us to the BIOS. IMHO, the worst one I've seen on a high end board. ZERO explanation for half the settings (this is not strange in and of itself, BIOS is still a black art, but in a tweakers board, we should have some basic explanation )
There seem to be adequate settings in the BIOS for all sorts of doodads and gizmos, but who the heck knows what half of them are. Roger points out rightfully, that we now need to "Tune" across all these different intermediary bus structures and test. But with the lack of info from either NVidia, MSI or anyone else for that matter, its kinda hard to know where to start.
first of all, i do think that all the settings in the BIOS have an explanation in the manual, even if it's a basic one. if that explanation doesn't tell you everything in detail, is because if you do need a detailed explanation of the settings, you probably shouldn't be messing around with those settings.
Quote from: nanohead on 15-February-06, 01:17:10
I did upgrade to the 1.16 BIOS, and found that some new things were added, as well as voltage control in Cell was a little better, but registration of changes in voltage is still a disaster. I adjusted a bunch of times, it didn't register, and I ended up smoking a new A64 3700+ Diego with 1.95 volts, even though the BIOS claimed it was 1.53. I had to rebot to see what was going on. The Thermalright XP-90 kept the proc from melting down through the earth.
wanna tell me how did you get 1.95V on that mobo?
Quote from: nanohead on 15-February-06, 01:17:10
I've been able to get the CPU up to 2.4Ghz, with a .5 volt bump to the CPU and 2.9 volts into the Geil memory. So far, so stable, no smoke coming out yet
a 0.5V bump? again, you must be joking. maybe 0.05V.

K8N Diamond Plus need a -5v rail?

If you read my saga, by now you know my on-board sound card isn't working, I haven't been able to figure out what was the problem, nor did my shop.
Now.. do I need -5v rail for the k8n diamond plus like the K8N Diamond (non-plus) ?

Quote from: HighTest on 14-February-06, 05:15:15
Doubt it, as you don't need it on the non-plus. See my sig, I've got one and my onboard Creative Sound solution is working fine with my Enermax EG565P-VE FMA 2.0 (SLI Compliant).
There's no -5V on the supply, in fact there is no wire on that connector, so it's very evident. What I do see is a mod performed before the board was shipped for retail.
Since I purchased my board in Feb 2005, I suspect most in the channel also don't require the -5V. The Diamond Plus has the mod build into the actual board design, so you shouldn't have any problems there.
only the 1st revision Of DIAMOND have -5V supply. Your's the latest revision without -5V
Quote from: TEKNOW on 02-March-06, 04:20:05
What I mean is, I no longer have crackling/popping/distortion etc. - but my sound is -weak, it's maybe 1/5 the power it used to be on my old P4 rig.
You need the powerful PSU which has 12V and i believe it has been discuss in this threat.

K8N Diamond Plus, SLI and Creative X-Fi cards, anyone running similar?

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