KEEP ACR IMAGE FILES AT 16 BIT???

I had my CS-6 ACR set for 16 bit by selecting 16 bit with an image file open, and selecting done, and for some time it remained that way.
Yesterday, I processed a dozen images through ACR as TIF files---went to work on some today, and found them all to be in 8 Bit Mode.
The only thing I can think of that would have changed the behavior is an ACR Update put everything back to "Default" settings, which is really annoying, as it's cost me a days work!!!
Is there a way to select 16 Bit in ACR, in a manner that remains unchanged unless I choose to change it? And , if not-----why not???
Leigh

ACR Workplace settings always stay how you set them unless you change them yourself. An exception might be greyscale, but otherwise, I'm guessing you set it to TIFF somehow.

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Photostream for Windows keeps changing image file names

Hi, I have iCloud and the Photo Stream application installed on my Windows Vista PC. I have just returned from a trip abroad and took photos on both my iPhone 4 (updated with iOS6) and a separate digital camera. Having taken thousands of photos, I've managed to combine the two collections of photos into one and renamed them in sequence i.e. USA(1), USA(2), USA(3) etc. I want to be able to convert this completed photo collection into a Photostream to share with others on their iPhones and iPads respectively.
I know Shared Photostreams are limited to 1,000 photos each, however when I create and add the new collection of photos to a new Photostream album, it chooses to rename the files and display them out of the desired order. The file names are usually something like 'IMG_00605' and while some are in the correct order and placed next to one another, others are not. Despite playing with the display settings, i.e. Sort By>Name, Date Taken, Tags etc I still cannot get the photos to display in the order I set out in the first place. As you can imagine this is incredibly frustrating, having painstakingly gone through all my photos to ensure they were ordered and renamed sequentially.
Does anybody know how I can rectify this and display my photos in the order I want them to? Any suggestions would be greatly received.
Thanks very much in advance,
James

Hi, I have iCloud and the Photo Stream application installed on my Windows Vista PC. I have just returned from a trip abroad and took photos on both my iPhone 4 (updated with iOS6) and a separate digital camera. Having taken thousands of photos, I've managed to combine the two collections of photos into one and renamed them in sequence i.e. USA(1), USA(2), USA(3) etc. I want to be able to convert this completed photo collection into a Photostream to share with others on their iPhones and iPads respectively.
I know Shared Photostreams are limited to 1,000 photos each, however when I create and add the new collection of photos to a new Photostream album, it chooses to rename the files and display them out of the desired order. The file names are usually something like 'IMG_00605' and while some are in the correct order and placed next to one another, others are not. Despite playing with the display settings, i.e. Sort By>Name, Date Taken, Tags etc I still cannot get the photos to display in the order I set out in the first place. As you can imagine this is incredibly frustrating, having painstakingly gone through all my photos to ensure they were ordered and renamed sequentially.
Does anybody know how I can rectify this and display my photos in the order I want them to? Any suggestions would be greatly received.
Thanks very much in advance,
James

Can I Use Time Machine To Back Up a FAT32 Disk Containing Image Files?

New iMac User Here. I just bought a brand new but mid-2010 27" i7 iMac. Although I've used recent MacBooks when traveling I've got no experience with Time Machine or other similar third party back up software.
I moved to the iMac from a desktop PC running Windows XP Pro SP3. I use the computer(s) mainly for photo image storage and processing. My workflow is based upon Adobe Lightroom (now v3.4.1) and I plan to stick with it. In the PC I had three internal hard drives, 2 of which were dedicated to image files. They were formatted as Windows NTFS. In preparation for the switch I formatted an external drive as FAT32 and copied all the image files to it. Now with the iMac I have Lightroom installed on its internal hard drive but keep the image files on the external hard drive and access them as needed. So far, so good.
The problem arose when I tried to set up Time Machine to back up both the internal hard drive and the external external drive. It will back up the former but not the latter. It tells me it does not interact with FAT32 disks.
Any thoughts, explanations and/or solutions for establishing a simple, single back up routine for both internal and external drives will be most appreciated.

Thanks very much for the quick response. You confirm my intial suspicion, but your suggestion relies on my memory to accomplish on a regular basis (not the best of solutions) and further would be an extended disk run every night because it would not just be backing up new additions but the whole large disk, right?

How can I set ACR 5.2 to open RAW files as 16 Bit and not 8?

Whenever I open RAW files in ACR 5.2 they open as 8 bit. I change the bit depth to 16 and work on a file... but when I open my next RAW file it's back to 8.
Is there any way to set ACR so that it always opens my RAW files as 16 Bit.. and saves other settings as well?

Bennett, when you open a raw file in Camera Raw and finish working on it the choices to click on are Open Image, Cancel, and Done. Which one are you clicking on to close the image in ACR? Cancel will do just that. Cancel the changes and the 16/8 bit setting will not be kept. The other two choices (Open Image and Done) will maintain the changes you made and the 16/8 bit setting and the color space should stick for the next image.

Cant work with 32 bit image files?

Hi there, I am unable to work with 32 bit image files on our cs6 ? I am fallowing a tutorial and a person creates a new file with 32 bit channel selected from dropdown menu, and starts painting on it he is using CS5. When I create a 32 bit file and select the brush tool, it comes on with circle and cross line and error comes up saying that the brush tool is not supported with 32 bit image files, in fact, I cant use any tools on the 32 bit images, I can't even create a new layer on the file. There is one thing I can do, which is a great feature, I can save it! But it's not much of a use now is it? If the image is plane white sheet. Is this a special feature that you need to purchase seperetly? Could you please advise. Regards

Hello again,
so resetting the preference file makes no difference to the problem.
I checked 6 of our macs. 3 of the macs can create the 32 bit images and allow paint and other tools with no problem. Jet the other 3 macs have the same problem as I have. I checked my 2008 macbook which has CS5, and it can also edit 32 bit files. Checked my PC yesterdey which has CS6 installed, can't work with 32 bit image files.
I find this very odd, some work and some don't. Any suggestions would be great. Please also find a screenshot of the mac with the issue.
Kind regards,

PSD keeps saving image as 32 bit depth (not 24)

I may be using some incorrect terminology/calculations.
I have some third-party presentation software that requires all images be 8-bit. So I used Photoshop for all photo editing and made sure my PSDs were 8-bit before exporting stills (PNGs) for my presentation. 50+ PNGs were successfully created this way, but i'm having problems with a single file. When I open the correct files in Windwos Pic/Fax View, right click, show properties, go to Summery (advanaced), all the correct files have a bit depth listed as 24.
My problematic PSD says it's in 8-bit, but the PNGs that I create from it are consistently listed as having 32 bit depth in Windows Pic/Fax View. As a test I exported other images formats (TIFFs, JPEGs, etc...) and they all came out as 32 bit depth. How do I fix this? I tried opening the PSD, saving as different name, switching to 16-bit and then back to 8-bit, still didn't work.

I don't think I have an alpha channel. The workflow to create this image is identical to all other images (none of them have alphas). Any way I can check whether an alpha inadvertently was included?
Thanks for also explaining the math behind 8 bit -> 24 bit lol.

Can I save an image as a 16-bit RGB JPG file?

Is it possible to save an image as a 16-bit RGB file? I know I can work in RGB mode in 16-bits per channel and "save as" a JPG, but when re-opening the file it appears to have been converted to 8-bit. My research seems to show a consistent theme that JPG is by definition an 8-bit format. Nonetheless, I have a supplier who wants their images delivered in 16-bit or 32-bit RGB in JPG format. Is this possible. If not, what might they mean by this?

Not possible. Jpg does not support anything higher than 8 bit. I believe png supports 16 bits per channel, other than that you could send a tiff file, but be prepared for any in compatibilities, you may need to change some settings and try again.

Best way to combine 8-bit and 16-bit image files?

I produce large photographic art prints by combining my own edited 16-bit RAW photo images with 8-bit stock photo images and 8-bit photoshop artwork. I used to just reduce my 16-bit photos to 8-bit and then edit my composite image as 8-bit, but I ran into banding and other problems in the color gradients I created later in my composite image.
I want my composite image to be 16-bit to get more accurate colors and better gradients. What is the best way to bring 8-bit image files into my composition and maintain best quality? Is it good to convert 8-bit images to 16-bit in PS before importing? I also heard about bringing 8-bit images in as Smart Objects? Thanks for any help on this.

*Photonic wrote:
Thanks Jack and Noel. My workflow usually starts w. a 16-bit RAW image brought into Photoshop as the background layer of the master file. Color space is AdobeRGB. Then 8-bit stock photo and art elements (objects) are brought in by dragging the open 8-bit image up to the master image file tab, and then dropping it back into the image window after the file opens.
Should I use the "Paste In" command instead? I usually avoid copy/paste since some of my element files are usually over 100MB and that seems to challenge my Mac after a while.
Could I convert the 8-bit image files prior to import, like Noel suggests (Image>Mode>16bits)? Thanks.
There is no need to convert 8bit open documents to 16bit mode Photoshop will convert the copied layers to 16bit bit during the drag copy. Converting the open document would just increase Photoshop RAM usage every layer pixels bytes used would double in size.
If you element files are over 100MB they are most likely layered files. If all you need is a composite you should avoid using Place for that will needlessly inflate your document size. Instead open the element file create a new layer that is a stamp visible layer (Shift+Alt|Opt+Ctrl|Cmd+E) and drag that layer to you document then close nosave your element file. Copy only copies the targeted layer or there is a Copy Merge that copies the composit merge of all targeted layers. It a bit hard to create an action that would be able to use Copy or Copy Merge. Using the above stamp visible way can be made into an action. You also do not want to drag all the layers to your document if you just need a composit layer.
You could also automate the element file copy with an action.
Action Step 1 Insert menu into File>Open this will be an interactive step you must select a file to open. When the action is played.
Step 2 (Shift+Alt|Opt+Ctrl|Cmd+N) Create a new empty layer This will always work
Step 3 (Shift+Alt|Opt+Ctrl|Cmd+E) stamp visible layers into the new layer
Step 4 (Ctrl|Cmd+A) select all
Step 5 (Ctrl|Cmd+C) Copy
Step 6 Close current document no save
Step 7 (Ctrl|Cmd+P) Paste into the document your working on Photoshop will convert to 16bit if the document is 16bit mode and the clipboard content is 8bit.
When you use Photoshop and do something. Think to yourself how did Photoshop do what you asked it to do. Thing about what is involved what layers must be used etc. How is the feature/function done.
Message was edited by: JJMack
Message was edited by: JJMack

Keep having to find missing folders for network image files, although library is on local drive

I use Lightroom to store my image files on a networked drive. Whenever I open up Lightroom and want to access the files, it keeps losing the path to the drive and folders. I have to keep using find missing folders on all the subdirectories to see the files. Is there something I can do to prevent this from happening each time?

What is this BSD Name: disk0s1 for that occupy 209.7MB?
That is your EFI partition and shouldn't be touched.
I'm missing around 349GB of disc, after I sum up all my folders.. freeing most huge files.
First, empty your trash.
Open Finder, Click the Apple Logo > About This Mac > More Info.. > Storage
This will give you a rough idea of what is taking up disk space
Here is a helpful guide to follow:
The XLab: Freeing space on your Mac OS X startup disk
Here is a helpful program as well:
Download OmniDiskSweeper for Mac - Find and delete large ...

How to keep a copy of the image file on memory card when using tethered shooting with a Nikon D800?

I love tethered Shooting but as default (at least for Nikon) Lightroom does only save the file on the computer, not on the memory card.
Now I want to have a backup of the image file on the memory card additionally to downloading it. The tethering software digiCamControl can do this with my camera, so it is technically possible.
So how can I achieve this using Lightroom tethering?

Thanks. FWIW I'm very keen on improving tethering and lobbied Adobe endlessly until they added the overlay for shooting into layouts because it was a major reason why some of my clients were unable to switch to Lightroom from PhaseOne. But we have to be realistic and remember that tethering just isn't a key market for Adobe as it is for PhaseOne, so progress is painfully slow. For example, where is live view or setting exposure which are in PhaseOne? I'd be amazed if we get those features for a few versions, and that's why I point serious tethered shooters to other solutions. And realistically, assuming your understanding of the SDK is correct you shouldn't expect a change until the next full version of Lightroom. Good if it happens, but I wouldn't bet on it.

PS CC HDR toning in ACR then Converting to 16 bit major error!

So here's the deal - I'm an avid user of HDR and have always made my HDRs in photoshop (but tonemapped elsewhere). Now, with the new tonemapping in ACR I can get great results - BUT - there's a BIG problem.
After I've created my HDR and toned it in ACR it opens in photoshop as a 32 bit file (with the camera raw adjustments showing as a filter).
And it looks great.
BUT, when I try to make that a usable file by converting down to 16 or 8 bit - all that work goes to waste.
I've always used "exposure and gamma" to convert from 32 to 16 or 16 to 8 - that's the one we all know and love because it doesn't change anything as far as the image appearance.
However - with HDRs I create and tone in ACR: Once I do this to convert to 16 bits using exposure and gamma (like always and touching nothing) - the image turns almost white - horribly washed out and lousy looking. I've tried it every way I can think of. I'll flatten the 32 bit file as to get rid of the acr smart filter, I've rasterized the layer, I've duplicated the document, I've tried merging and not merging - everything. The preview that shows when I am about to convert 32 to 16 in exposure/gamma looks correct, but as soon as I do it - boom - washed out weird looking image.
Other issue:
If I save a 32 bit psd after toning in ACR to work on later - it looks way different the next time I open it. This happens whether I save the profile along with the file or not. It opens darker, for the most part and I can never get back to how it was (and was unable to save as 32, 16, or 8 looking right!).
Last issue: If I create a 32 bit hdr image but choose NOT to tone in acr and save it as a radiance file - if I open that radiance file later in photoshop and use the acr filter to tone it - again, it appears way different like a lot of data has been lost. The image is usually a lot brighter, washed out, less colorful, and the pixels seem to not be able to bend very far in any direction.
Can someone please explain if I am doing something wrong?? Or if this is a bug?? I love the way the 32 bit images look once I've toned them - but that's the only time they'll look remotely like that! Can't save, convert to 16 bit, or do doodly squat without the image drastically changing!

Ok! Thank you everyone for taking the time to help me figure this out! I appreciate it!
I have taken everyone's advice into consideration and tried everything suggested - watched every video - read every link - and here's where I'm at now.
There's some good news and bad news and just plain weird news.
I do have those profile settings enabled (always have) - and it does ask me if I want to embed, convert, or discard.
If I flatten a 32 bit toned image (to get rid of the acr filter) and save it as a 32 bit tiff - I can re-open that tiff with convert to working space on - and it looks the same. I can ALSO convert that tiff to 16 bit and have it look a LOT closer to the original (nothing like the washed out ones). That's good news!
However, if I save the 32 bit toned image with the acr filter still there as PSD - it will open washed out and crazy the next time I open it (using convert to working space - I've also tried every other option). So - working on a 32bit toned in acr image again is still impossible after closing it without it looking all washed out.
ALSO - there is one section in color profile settings that is puzzling me and affects all of this in a major way.
Above the three boxes to check about profile mismatches and warnings - there are 3 settings
RGB, CMYK, and Gray.
Now by default my RGB settings was RGB: Off
I know this is a weird issue because my working space is adobe rgb and the profile mismatch warnings are still on - so the same result happens when opening files. And also by checking the include the working color profile with an image when you save it should achieve the same result as haveing RGB: Preserve Embedded Profiles on. But there's a weirder area this causes a difference.
If I have that RGB setting OFF - and merge those 3 same images to hdr and then go to tone in ACR it looks really dark (not a problem it's a 32 bit hdr file - I use acr to make it look the way I want). It's rich in color and seems to have loads of data and tone available to play with.
HOWEVER - if I start with that RGB setting to "Preserve embedded profiles" - then merge those same 3 images to hdr and then go to tone in ACR it looks entirely different. It looks way less dark and contrasty, is very drained in color, and seems to have a lot less data to play with in terms of bringing out shadows or toning down highlights.
It's best for me to just show you a side by side - as I'm including here. This is the same hdr created with no changes other than that one setting (shown in the image) being different before I merge to hdr. (And the 32bit image that opens in ACR I have made zero changes to at the point of screen capture).
Any ideas?

Why is Encore 5.1 AUTO mode building files just a bit too large for DVDs?

I've been doing the same videos for a few years using Encore 1.5 and more recently Encore 5.1 (with Premiere 5.5). The videos are typically football games with short 2-25 secs of motion menus. If I put two games per DVD, the total running time has been up to 2 hours total per game. I've made dozens of these with Premier writing AVI files (standard 720x480 vide) and writing in Encore 1.5 using auto settings. With Premiere CS4 I started using the dynamic link to Encore CS4 and still ran beautiful DVDs on auto transcoding.
Now, when using the same standard video files in Premiers 5.5, and using dynamic link to Encore 5.1, on auto transcode settings, the image files or transcode files (depending on how I order the build) keep coming out 150 - 300 MBs too large for the DVDs (typically Tayo-Yuden or Verbatim burning to Plextor/Pioneer drives). (Windows-7-X64 Intel D975XBX2 MB.)
To see if I was going nuts, I recently saved a job as two AVI files (same length as the sequences sent through dynamic link to Encore CS5.1) and did the same DVD setup in Encore CS4 but importing the AVI files as timelines. The chapter points didn't convert for Encore CS4 so I had to install manually. The end result, though, was a DVD image that worked fine.
So I then went to the Encore CS5 build window and set the DVD size to manual, dropping down from 4.7GBs to 4.25. The result fit, but then left too much free space (though the vids still looked OK).
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Thanks,
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Thanks, Giorgio.
I do you imgburn quite a bit and even the new version 2.5.6.0 which allows for truncating and overburning wouldn't write to either the Plextor burners or the Pioneer 205 (Blu-Ray in DVD mode).
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Regards,
Doug A

How to get Bridge-hosted ACR to always open 32-bit PS?

I am using CS4 on the 64-bit version of Windows 7. Does anyone know how I can force ACR to use the 32-bit version of PS instead of the 64-bit version when using the "Open in Camera Raw" method from Bridge?
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Any ideas?

Plain advice: open Bridge, open 32-bit PS,
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Peter

Changing image file names

hi all.
can anyone help me find a thread (can i run a search somehow in ("Your Stuff"?) where folks were kind enough to help me understand how to change file names?
i am reading through some help documentation on Batch Change but i am trying to remember what i should be doing to most efficiently solve my problem.
basically i have images in aperture which have non-sensical names related to their originally existing in a pc folder organization originally and i would like to both rename them in aperture but also be able to have them EXPORTED to my desktop so i can upload them to the web with some reasonable sounding title such as "client1-town1-HousingType-FirmName-photographer.png" or something similar. right now the images i want to publish are ORGANIZED IN ALBUMS and have names like "folio_construction_other_turtle_134543.png"
i think i WOULD LIKE to change the name of the master but i am not totally sure about this and when i run a Metadata > Batch Change and pull down version name i get selections that i do not fully understand.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/yvu1u7eskbmhcik/Screen%20Shot%202012-12-03%20at%201.58 .46%20PM.png
i /am/ familiar with a handle little tool called Name Mangler which basically allows me to easily delete all the PREFIX information (such as "folio_construction_other_turtle" and then to pre-pend something like "client1-town1-HousingType-FirmName-photographer" in front of the image number which would be ideal...
apologies for asking this again but until i get through it once i am finding it all a bit tricky.
THANKS

Hi Leonie.
Thank you so much. I am going to be doing a lot of this and just so i understand:
Delete the images you exported and renamed from your Aperture library before reimporting, to avoid creating duplicates. When deleting from the album that you used to export, use the command "delete version", not "delete from album". Do not delete the projects that the images came from, only the images.
Can you help me understand which images i am deleting? I mean, is there a way to delete just the images in the ALBUM because if i have to go in and delete the images from a Project there are going to be a lot more images in the Project and it is going to be very hard to tell which images have been renamed and which have not been renamed. If i have to do this by deleting the images in the Project, i suppose i could use one of your suggestions to color all the images in an ALBUM, say yellow, and then see where the images show up in Projects but even then i think it will be a bit tricky. Are you saying i can just delete the images in the ALBUM by doing "Delete Version"?
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OK. So - well - so now i am importing all of the images that i originally had in the Database and they are /basically/ (i moved the folder organization around a little bit while the images were on my desktop in this first attempt...) - they are basically getting IMPORTED into Aperture now with the "new" images coming into the database into a new Project that is named according to the Album that they were in?
This is a little tricky for me. Will the old Albums still exist? What if i had more than one Album with an image in it. Also, this "new" image will be in a /new/ Project but will it still be in the OLD PROJECT with the old name? Or, i guess i am getting a little confused as to how this will work.
Select the project in the Library Inspector, that you want to import the folder of images into, then set the "Destination" in "Import settings > Aperture Library" brick to this project and set "Store Files" to "In the Aperture Library".
OK. I can try this here soon. What does Store Files in the Aperture Library do? I guess these images are getting imported as if they are new and they are getting imported with no external references?
Set "Rename files" to "None" or "version name". Both will keep the name you edited.
OK. Not sure i totally understand but i can try this as well. I guess this is making sure Aperture will keep the original names.
THANKS

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Hello,
the canon CR2 file is 14 bit. However when Camera Raw and Photoshop open it, they conert it to 8 bit.
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At the bottom of the ACR window is a "link" to this dialog
It should be a button really!

KEEP ACR IMAGE FILES AT 16 BIT???

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