Lightroom 4 Tone Adjustments

I have a series of photos in Lightroom 4 from a Nikon D300, all images are NEF's. They would have been in my Lightroom 3 catalogue and been upgraded to Lightroom 4. For the majority of images, I see the new Exposure, Recovery, Fill Light and Blacks in the Tone Adjustment menu however on 2 images, I see the Lightroom 3 adjustments of Highlights, Shadows, Whites and Blacks. I've actually deleted these 2 images from the library and re-imported them and still have the Lightroom 3 adjusters.
This looks like a bug in Lightroom 4 although I can't see any reason why these 2 images alone would be causing problems.
Any ideas please?

I think you're mixing up the two process versions.
Lightroom 3 uses PV2010 by default, i.e.
Exposure
Recovery
Fill Light
Blacks
Brightness
Contrast
Lightroom 4 uses PV2012 by default, i.e.
Exposure
Contrast
Highlights
Shadows
Whites
Blacks
Images previously edited in Lr3 will normally be PV2010, therefore the PV2010 sliders will be present.
Unedited images imported into Lr4 will use PV2012, therefore the PV2012 sliders will be present.

Similar Messages

Anyway to turn off "Apply Auto Tone Adjustments" with Tiffs + PSDs?

Using 1.1 on Mac....
When I view tiffs in Lightroom 1.1 I noticed images are much lighter than when viewing in Photoshop. Is it the preference "Apply Auto Tone Adjustments" being applied? If so is there a way to turn it off for Tiffs and PSDs?

John:
I think I just ran into the same problem in a different venue, and maybe many people are having this problem. I imported a folder of layered psd master files from which I wanted to output prints in the LR print module. (You can see the thread on this forum titled "lightroom output prints are too light"). All of them looked a good stop lighter when viewed in the LR window as compared to when they were opened in photoshop.
After some other diagnostic suggestions that did not yield a solution, Jeff Schewe told me to use the Zeroed preset when importing images, so as to eliminate any develop settings that might inadvertently be turned on. I haven't tried to print yet, but they are importing as I write this and the ones in the LR window look like they match the image when viewed in photoshop. I just checked Lee Jay's advice and did find that I had "Apply Auto Tone Adjustments" checked in the presets preferences. Am not sure why this would override "none" when importing, but evidently it does.
Am also not sure what your issues about syncing are (I didn't even know "Apply Auto Tone Adjustments" checkbox existed till I read your thread), but hope this helps.
Paula Lerner
http://www.lernerphoto.com

Lightroom 5 make adjustments want to transfer to photo shop to make additional adjustments. how do you keep the adjustments made in lr5 when photo is transferred to photo shop

lightroom 5 make adjustments want to transfer to photo shop to make additional adjustments. how do you keep the adjustments made in lightroom 5 when photo is transferred to photo shop
I am not able to keep the changes made in light room when I transfer to photo shop

Something you need to understand. Unless you are using the latest version of Photoshop Elements, it's possible that some of the adjustments that you make in Lightroom won't transfer to Elements if you choose the option to open anyway. If you choose the option to edit a copy with Lightroom adjustments then Lightroom will create a TIF or PSD file (depending on your preferences), and that file will include all of the adjustments that you have made using Lightroom. Then you can finish your work in Photoshop Elements.
The process of transferring an image from Lightroom to Photoshop or Photoshop Elements involves the Camera Raw plug-in. It has to be used to interpret the Lightroom adjustments and apply those adjustments to the image after it has been converted. Files open in Elements or Photoshop or no longer raw images because those programs are incapable of editing raw image data. I don't know if this will help you in this situation. Feel free to ask if you have more questions.

Workflow: PS3/ACR. From PS3 after creating layers how do I make ACR tone adjustments?

I've recently upgraded to PS3 and would like to make all my global tone adjustments in ACR and then open as a smart object in PS3 and add layers (for localized adjustments). When I do this and save the file as .psd, I can't seem to get back to alter the originally made ACR global tone adjustments. Should I be able to do this? If so, how? I'm hoping I don't have to re-do my layer changes after returning to ACR to change the previously established global tone changes. Can someone suggest a work flow that allows subsequent changes to both ACR and PS3 layers? Thanks!

While the image is still a smart object, simply double-click on the base image layer. That will open the image in ACR for additional raw adjustments.

Camera Raw - apply auto tone adjustments ...

In camera raw, "apply auto tone adjustments" option in the preferences dialog is not same with the "auto" button on the basic panel, isn't it?
Both of them control the same sliders, are there any relationship between them?

Maybe, there is a bug for Windows 7 64-bit ... when the "apply auto tone adjustments" option is active on the preferences dialog, the auto button on the basic panel is also active and I'm always getting slightly different results by pressing it.

LIghtroom Auto Tone Too Dark and Loses Detail

Hi,
I'm new to Lightroom so excuse my ignorance if I use the wrong terminology or ask a question that has a relatively easy answer I somehow overlooked inside of Lightroom.
I take photos at my son's soccer games and frequently walk away with over 200 photos to adjust, crop, etc. after removing the poor composition, out of focus and other shots. One of the features that prompted me to purchase Lightroom to replace my existing tool (Capture One LE) was the way Lightroom handled colors in the Auto Tone preset. Photos auto adjusted in Lightroom with the Auto Tone feature exhibit a much more rich/vibrant color than the ones that would come out of Capture One LE for me.
However, I've noticed that Auto Tone also darkens areas of the photo to the point where a significant amount of detail is lost. For example, a shot of a player head on with a shadow across his face and front of his jersey loses facial detail around the eyes, nose, mouth and folds in the front of the jersey because the coloring is darkened to the point where the highlights are lost.
I've tried several adjustments to regain the highlights and associated detail, but am unsure if there's a better way to recover the detail (or gain the tone enhancements without losing the detail). So far, the adjustments I've tried to regain the detail have caused the colors to wash out somewhat and reduce the benefit gained with the color enhancements of Auto Tone.
Is there a better way of regaining the detail after using Auto Tone? And on a related note, is there a way to "undo" just the Auto Tone adjustment in a photo if it's not the last adjustment made, or does one need to step backward through the adjusments undoing each adjustment in order to get to the Auto Tone adjustment in order to remove it?
Thanks in advance for any direction or suggestions anyone can provide. FYI, my photos were all in RAW format (noticed a lot of other posts referring to LR Auto Tone washing out JPGs, but this isn't my issue), with a Canon 20D.
Dale

There are several ways to go, here, as always with Lightroom in this situation. I suppose one thing you can do is use Auto Tone as you've been doing, and then back down another slider or two, particularly Contrast and Brightness, that moves too far for your taste when you hit Auto Tone.
I don't use Auto Tone. It's considered a machete where deftly-wielded surgical knives get much better results. I tested Auto Tone out on a virtual copy of one of my photos of people for you to see what happens. It bumps Contrast way up, drops Brightness a bit, reduces Fill Light, and increases Blacks slightly. Yeah, that would pretty much get the results you're complaining about! Might work okay in some landscape shots in some very subdued lighting situations, but it will make family shots too harsh.
Let me suggest another approach. First, no one checklist approach like I'm about to suggest works for every photo. But when you learn how to use the sliders yourself, and not rely on the automatic and strongest ones, like Auto Tone and Contrast, your photos will look better than you even realized. Seriously! I know what you're saying:
I take 200 photos at a time, and I don't have time to play with sliders for each photo. Hear me out, though, because you do. Once you get the hang of it, you'll learn to do all this so fast, well less than one minute per keeper shot, and you'll see that it's worth the small amount of time it takes.
First look at all your Imported shots and quickly weed out most of them. Don't try to save the ones where your main subject is out-of-focus or turned away at the last second, or badly overexposed shots, or for whatever reason, aren't worth editing time because you know you have better ones... and you should weed out MOST shots (maybe at least 150) if you took 200! Be a tough editor! Hit the X key as you look at ones to cull, then click Filter by black flag until all the Rejected photos Only are isolated, check them one more time to be sure you didn't X some you want by mistake, ctrl-A them to highlight all the Rejected ones ONLY, and hit Delete to blow them all away, From Disk. Congratulate yourself, because you just saved a lot of editing time.
Assuming the Exposure was in the right ballpark, fix Color Temp first. For your first keeper shot, move that Temp slider near upper right of Develop, almost certainly to the right for Canon Raw shots, to warm the faces a bit. You probably don't want the kids' faces ruddy red, but a little warming so that white jerseys just begin to go slightly to the red side of white, makes your outdoor people photos glow. It wouldn't be surprising to see family soccer photos in the 6000-6500 range look best. If you want cold journalistic realism, leave white jerseys pure white and Temp down in the 4000-5000 range on a cloudy day or 5000-6000 range on a sunny one. Now, if one shot's right, and
if your light didn't change during the shoot (sun going in and out of clouds, sun setting, field lights turning on halfway through the game), you can fix Temp for all your remaining shots with just a couple of clicks! Leave the first shot you fixed Temp for highlighted, and ctrl-A the whole filmstrip (or, alternatively, you can just ctrl-click the ones taken in the same light). Now click the Sync button that appears near the lower right corner of Develop. A window pops. Make sure White Balance is checked, and click Synchronize. (Every field checked here gets applied the same as on the first highlighted shot to all your subsequently highlighted shots when you do this. Since you haven't changed anything else yet, you don't have to uncheck the other boxes-- it won't matter. But later, after you've made other adjustments to other shots, you might only want to leave the boxes checked for fields you do want applied the same to all highlighted photos.) When you click Synchronize, watch all the highlighted photos in the filmstrip at the bottom get a warmer color balance. You can always later make more refined adjustments to individual shots or groups of shots that go too red or not warm enough.
The next thing to fix is the Exposure. Get in the habit of constantly consulting that Histogram graph at the top of the right column. Ideally, though this isn't always possible or ideal, but generally, you'd like to see neither triangle in the upper right and left corners
lit. (When it's right, you'll still see the outline of the triangle, but it won't be illuminated.) Even better, for an average outdoor shot with a variety of light and dark tones, you want to see a nice balanced line across most of the graph, curving up from the left and down on the right. Not always possible or the best exposure for every shot, mind you, just average ones. (A silhouette shot on a beach with the setting sun in the photo is an example of a shot where the best Histogram will look the opposite of that!) Try moving Exposure slowly to the left and right and watch how the Histogram moves. Try to get the best average placement you can, and see if the photo still looks right.
Or watch your grass with soccer shots while you move Exposure back and forth. Grass should look middle green, not too bright, and not dull-muddy-dark. Or watch faces. If you still have a triangle on the upper right of Histogram, which means highlight detail is blowing out, try sliding Recovery to the right just until the upper right triangle disappears, if possible. (It isn't always possible, even with Recovery at 100.) If you still have a triangle on the upper left of Histogram (that one means shadows are muddy with no detail), try sliding Blacks down from 5 towards 0, just until the triangle goes away. Sometimes it's easier to make a triangle go away by moving Exposure a bit. If there's no triangle on the upper left, try increasing Black slowly just until one appears in the upper left, then back off a bit until it just goes away again. If there are harsh shadows, increase Fill Light to brighten shadows a bit until it looks right. Losing the triangles is a general goal but not as important as having photos look right to you. It's a juggling act. Sometimes when you remove the triangles, the grass is muddy brownish, faces look wrong, or highlights are too dull. Maybe you move Exposure, Highlights or Blacks to put one or both triangles back but leave the overall photo better.
Now just do two more things, especially as you're learning this: first, increase Clarity. Probably a bunch. If faces go too harsh on you with Clarity at a highsetting, and they can in closeup, you may want about a 20-45 on Clarity. Many photos look best with even higher Clarity settings, even 100 for landscapes. Now bump Vibrance up, probably to the left of the Clarity slider, though. Too high a setting on Vibrance makes colors looks cartoonish and fake. Are faces too ruddy or foliage too over-the-top? Back off on Vibrance.
Look at the Histogram one more time and touch up Recovery and Blacks again if needed to get rid of barely reappearing triangles.
I recommend you do not move the following sliders, generally, for 99% of your photos, anyway: Tint (just usually not needed if the camera is doing color balance correctly), and Brightness, Contrast, and Saturation, all of which are ham-handed ways of doing what you do more precisely with the other sliders. About the only time you need Saturation is to move it left with a rare shot that for some reason has too much color especially red even with Vibrance set to 0. (Maybe your camera is set to Vivid.)
Doing these things will make most of your photos look WAY better than hitting Auto Tone. And once you get the hang of it, as I said, you can do each photo in well less than one minute, and you only do this on your keepers, so it doesn't take much time.

Skin tone adjustments in Aperture

I normally use Photoshop for editing, and Aperture as an "image management" and output system. However, I just did a shoot of my brother's baby and I have 200+ pictures to correct so PS is not an option this time. My nephew's skin is very red, so I'm wondering what the best way to correct that is in Aperture. I normally use selective color or curves in PS, but neither of those are available in Aperture.
Thanks,
Chris

Hi there,
Sounds like we use the same prcedure for similar reasons.
Yes and no to your question, and sadly, a bigger NO that there isn't a true workflow. We're into the best workaround FOR YOU. Mine is FOR ME, and (as my wife will tell you, I'm unique .... which I take as a compliment, errrrr).
Yes, the time to batch export and then import may be faster, technically, possibly, maybe, who knows?
No, the issue of getting the photos tagged back into the stacks (if this is of use to you) becomes manual activity and is unsupported by the system outside of sort conditions.
You can easily overwhelm memory with CS2 loading images and Aperture there as well, so I tend to do 10 or a dozen at a time ... more if image size and memory permits. Run an Action in CS2 unless masks are needed, Save and Close. On Save, the image is placed back into Aperture without any further work on your (i.e. MINE since I am LAAAZY).
BTW, somebody else mentioned this. I am a big fan, but have ghad to learn to work with quarter tone Levels. If the color shift is most needful on the skin tones, and less objectionable elsewhere, you may be able to use the quarter tone adjusts in combination with exposure and white balance adjustments within Aperture. Oh, how I would like selection and masks!!!!

Aperture 3 to Lightroom 5 WITH Adjustments?

Is there anyway to make the transition from Aperture 3 to Lightroom 5 where my adjustments to my photos also make the transition? Without having to export all my adjusted photos as TIFFs from Aperture?
I have over 20,000 photos in Aperture. I have Lightroom 5 and have read through this http://lightroomsolutions.com/articles/migrating-from-aperture-to-lightroom-wher e-do-i-begin/ but am a little freaked out about the paragraph about adjustments not making the transition. And yes, I can keep Aperture on my computer, but eventually it will no longer work with an OS or a chip or something as computers continue to progress.

Frank Caggiano wrote:
This could be done by writing the adjustments out to an XML file, for example, that LR could read in and use. Possibly not everything would map but the major adjustments could be reapplied.
Again this is only a guess on my part but it seems plausible. However we'll all have to wait and see how this plays out.
Sorry Frank, this will not work. They could write things like "set the 'Definition' slider to 0.56" into an XML file. But how would that translate into a certain setting of LR's 'Clarity' slider? Apple would have to hand over all adjustment algorithms to Adobe, and Adobe would have to implement all that into LR. There is absolutely no chance that this will happen. They could hand over a project structure, ratings, tags or whatever, but your images will never look the same.
Look at Nikon: they dropped CNX2 with Nik U-Points and turned Silkypix into their new Capture NX-D RAW editor. All Nic adjustments will be lost, and a lot of users are not exactly happy about that.

Lightroom 5 Tone Curve

Hey i m really a newbie to lightroom 5 and i sometimes come across a issue while using a tone curve ... that for some images the Tone curve displays "Channel" options and for some not ... my question is how to make it visible for all images .. please help ..and thanks

Make sure the process version on the image is set to 2012. Look in Camera Calibration.

Instillation Lightroom 5 Photo adjustments from Lightroom 4

I'm thinking of upgrading from lightroom 4 to ver 5. I have all my adjusted / corrected photos on a web site that is republished by lightroom to my site when I make corrections on any photo in lightroom.
If I upgrade to ver 5 will all the photo corrections / settings that I made on ver 4 be transferred over to ver 5? I do not want to lose those settings.
I have over 7,000 photos on the web site and would NOT want to lose the corrections I made on the photos.
i would not want to correct all those photos again or have lightroom republish all the photos without the corrections on them.
Has anyone upgraded to ver 5 and had any problem with photo correction data loss in the process?
I'm just a little GUN shy.

Something you need to understand. Unless you are using the latest version of Photoshop Elements, it's possible that some of the adjustments that you make in Lightroom won't transfer to Elements if you choose the option to open anyway. If you choose the option to edit a copy with Lightroom adjustments then Lightroom will create a TIF or PSD file (depending on your preferences), and that file will include all of the adjustments that you have made using Lightroom. Then you can finish your work in Photoshop Elements.
The process of transferring an image from Lightroom to Photoshop or Photoshop Elements involves the Camera Raw plug-in. It has to be used to interpret the Lightroom adjustments and apply those adjustments to the image after it has been converted. Files open in Elements or Photoshop or no longer raw images because those programs are incapable of editing raw image data. I don't know if this will help you in this situation. Feel free to ask if you have more questions.

I'm very disappointed to see that CS6 Beta has not caught up with Lightroom's HSL adjustments.

The HSL / Color adjustment in Lightroom is way ahead of what is available in Photoshop in terms of ease of use and flexibility, IMO. To achieve the same results in Photoshop requires a combination of the HSL, Selective Color etc adjustment layers ...
For example, changing the image on the left to the image on the right in the link below takes seconds in Lightroom ... but is very difficult to do in Photoshop.
Lightroom Images
I would love to see an adjustment layer in Photoshop which is as powerful as the one in Lightroom.
See http://feedback.photoshop.com/photoshop_family/topics/photoshop_please_add_an_hsl_adjustme nt_layer_as_powerful_as_lightrooms?utm_content=reply_link&utm_medium=email&utm_source=repl y_notification#reply_8537623

I contacted Amazon who told me no because it was downloaded and told me Adobe might make an acception. Then I called Adobe who told me they can't refund me because I obought it on amazon
I looked here http://helpx.adobe.com/x-productkb/policy-pricing/return-cancel-or-change-order.html#Retur n your order
and it says:
From a reseller:
Any Adobe product purchased from any seller other than Adobe, may only be returned to the seller from which the product was purchased, in accordance with that seller's return policy, if any.
Who is totally different from this:
Adobe offers a 30-day, money-back guarantee. If, within that period, you are dissatisfied with the software, you can return it to Adobe. This applies to any software purchased directly from Adobe, or any of their certified resellers. If bought from Amazon (not through Amazon Marketplace, from a 3rd party), just have your Amazon receipt/invoice handy. Contact Adobe directly, per Steve's Reply, and they will take the software back, if within 30 days of purchase. Do not let the time for that return lapse, as there is not "wiggle room."
So one place says I can return it, another says I can't. Im within my 30 days.

How do I disable the tone control on Quick Develop in the Library Module (Lightroom 3)?

I would prefer not to have Lightroom make
these choices automatically for me when I import
my images. My Lightroom 3 book only
discusses how to use Quick Develop. Thanks.

On the Preferences Presets tab, turn off "Apply auto tone adjustments".
Hal

Edit in photoshop image opens without Lightroom adjustments.

Images opened edit in in photoshop do not have the auto adjustment made in Lightroom but brush adjustments made do appear, When i close the picture in Photoshop and open it for a second time all the adjustments are there.
also the same thing happens to some of my exported images. I have removed and reinstalled both Photoshop CC 2014 and Lightroom 5 also on the cloud..
Pulling my hair our here trying to find an answer to this problem

Try removing the preference file: http://helpx.adobe.com/lightroom/kb/preference-file-locations-lightroom-41.html

All the sudden my Lightroom isn't carrying the adjustments over to Photoshop. Any way to reset this?

When I make adjustments to a photo in Ligthroom, such as Lens Correction, those adjustments are not applying to the image when I pull it into Photoshop.
All the sudden it just stopped carrying the adjustments over. Any suggestions?

LR 4.x incorporates the equivalent of ACR 7.x and Photoshop 6.x has the ACR plugin ACR 7.x so if they are both updated to the equivalent ACR version, then if you use the "edit in" function from LR the file with LR adjustments applied should open automatically in Photoshop.
If you are choosing to open a file directly from Photoshop the only way the adjustments you made in Lightroom can be read by Photoshop is if you had Lightroom write the adjustments to xmp. By default Lightroom writes all adjustments to the LR "Catalog" and Photoshop cannot read from the LR Catalog.
In LR you can use the option in preferences to "Automaticaly write to xmp" or from the LR Menu choose Photo> Save metadata to file (ctrl/command-s) to enable Photoshop read the adjustments.

HDR: Adjustments in Photoshop or Lightroom?

Are any creative/optimization options lost by taking images from Lightroom, sending them to Merge to HDR Pro in Photoshop to create the file, keeping it a 32-bit file and sending it back to Lightroom for further adjustments compared to keeping it in Photoshop, converting it to a 16-bit file and using the HDR Toning adjustments in Photoshop? Will either strategy result in a better final result as a large print?

Working on the 32-bit image in Lightroom will give you far more flexibility and enable you to do a lot more. Julianne Kost produced a quick tip for Lightroom 4.1 that explains the benefits of doing your HDR images this way. You might want to take a look. Of course everything she shows still holds true in Lightroom 5.
Quick Tip – Creating 32-bit (HDR) Images in LR 4.1 | The Complete Picture with Julieanne Kost | Adobe TV

Lightroom 4 Tone Adjustments

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