Location of northbridge chip? early 2009, 4,1

Hi- looking for a pic of the specific nuts-and-bolts location of the northbridge chip on the CPU tray- I've read descriptions, but I'd like an actual visual for absolute confirmation. Need to swap out the heatsink. A much-delayed maintenance upgrade.
Thanks, cheers!

Thanks for that info.
¿What are you using for a replacement, and what is the source for those?
My 840AV, the fastest SCSI machine of its era, died of overheating after running for quite a while with many SCSI drives on an FWB jackhammer controller and 68-pin ribbon cable everywhere inside. I think the power supply finally gave out.

Similar Messages

I am in the process of completely restoring my Early 2009 MacBook, which is the computer that I originally created my iCloud account with; which, consequently, is the original location of all of the music that finds its way from iCloud-

Onto all of my other device. Is all of the music in iCloud safe if I restore my MacBook?
I have an iPhone and an iMac. There is a lot of music that I have downloaded from iCloud onto both devices – however, not all. My question is: will the songs that have not been downloaded onto my iMac from iCloud be lost if I restore the computer that was the original location of all of that music?

I agree with Keith about using the Target Disk Mode, Transferring files between two computers using FireWire. This way there's no chance of errors due to dropouts using the wireless connection.
According to MacTracker your early 2009 Macbook does have a Firewire 400 connector which should do the job very well.
OT

24" iMac early 2009 - how to duplicate screen (mini DP to HDMI)?

Hello
I want to play movies on my TV which are located on this harddrive.
I have a PS3 so when i have software streaming that movies (uPnP style) to my PS3 it works. But then again, considering I like nature and all, I have to use 3 devices for getting that image through.
It would be far easier to just connect the mac to my TV using HDMI.
I know this is possible with a mini DP to HDMI cable. But does this iMac (early 2009) support audio streaming? I've read numerous of forums and they all have different answers. I know this forum is the right one to ask.
But if it doesn't support audio, then i'll need a devide which combines the mini DP and audio jack into a a hdmi output. This isn't such a problem I think except ...
If this audio jack is plugged in my iMac, won't I'll always loose the sound of my iMac (but I'll have that on my TV)? This bother me because I don't want to insert the audio jack every time I want to play a movie on my TV. But when the HDMI side is not connected to my TV, will my Imac still loose its audio?
It seems complex, but I just need a solution for watching those movies easily on my telly without having to switch cables all the time (and not use the PS3 which consumes power like a mad machine).
I'd like to know your input on this.
Thanks in advanced

The mini-DisplayPort does not carry audio. You can solve that issue with a device such as this one available in the USA. I do not know where you would find one in Europe.
However, as long as something is plugged into the Mac's audio port, that is normally where the audio goes. So if your TV is plugged into the audio port and the TV is off, your Mac will be silent.
Dah•veed

Macbook Pro Early 2009 Randomly Sleeps / Black Screen While In use

My macbook pro Early 2009, randomly goes to sleep while I am using the computer, I first noticed it occuring while I was using the mini display adapter to a computer monitor, and using a second monitor and watching a movie, the screen would go blank and I would have to wake it from sleep for it to come back on, sometimes closing the lid, sometimes pressing the trackpad, or keyboard to get it to work again, sometimes it would go back to sleep within 1 minute of waking.
I assume the problem could have been from perhaps water damage, as I recently used a wet paper towel to clean my keyboard, and perhaps the paper towel was a little to moist, not overly but perhaps just enough to damage the sleep sensor. I am still unsure where that is located, the only other problem I have noticed with the computer is my [battery service indicator] notification has been on for the last year, but since I never used the battery, I always have it plugged in at the desk I never bothered getting it serviced. So
I'm assuming its the Sleep Sensor? but here is what I hace done, just to make sure its not software. I was orignaly running 10.8, and after being frustrated while watching a movie and having my computer sleep every 2 minutes, I whipped my hardrive, put 10.9 developers preview on a usb and installed that.
On 10.9 I can swipe with 3 fingers on the trackpad and the display appears but if i let go of the swipe it goes back to black screen.
I can see Icons like, brightness, and sound, when adjusting the levels, but screen is black behind the icons
The mouse pointer cursor is visible but the screen is black
I can move the mouse and hear system sounds, but screen is black. Now I have to actually restart the computer because It seems like I cannot wake it up at all.
So I formatted the hardrive again and
I tried reinstalling Leopard OSX , as that was the disc that came with the mac,
but have Same problems in 10.5, 10.6, 10.7, 10.8 I upgraged to developer 10.9 to see if the problem would fix, but still occurs.
I ran hardware diagnostic off the leopard disc 2, by pressing the D key on startup with disc in drive, extended hardware test reported no problems.
I SMC reset and PRAM reset, [control]+[option]+[shift]+[powerbutton] while computer is turned off with power plugged in
and after that failed I tried pressing [Option]+[Command]+[P]+[R] before startup chime, chime repeat let go of keys and it booted normally.
Then computer randomly sleeps while in use, while using safari and it has happened 3 times within 2 minutes of typing this.
I have downloaded a program called InsomniaX, and activated the disable sleep for Lid and Idle, but now the screen will randomly just go black and then turn back on, sometimes it will just black screen for 10 seconds and come back on, altho after changing some more of the settings It appears to be not as frequent. It hasen't gone to sleep since writing this entire paragraph, so thats a good sign.
I was going to take it into the apple store, and have them run diagnostics, but I hate going into those stores because of all the iphone people, crowding the place.
Well my screen just blacked and came back within 10 seconds on while I typing this line so InsomniaX didn't work. I hope having the sleep sensor replaced isn't too expensive, or if my model even has such a sensor.
I read on another topic that this problem can be replicated by users putting a magnet on their laptop, something like an iphone or a money clip or even having one of these in their pocket while using the macbook on their lap. I have not had anything near the computer, so I have a different problem.
Just thought Id document this, will let you know what happens after the diagnostic, I tried apple support, and they said I did more than they would have done, so he couldn't really tell me anything besides take it into genius bar, (is that what its still called) and have them run diagnostic, [note its different than the hardware test on the cd]
and my computer screen goes black again, wow..

Hi pictureswithPS, welcome to Apple Discussions!
1. I have an original late-2008 unibody MBP that was purchased a week after the introduction. I have never had a single "black screen of death" ever, and I do some gaming under OS X on my machine. The heat issues are, in my humble opinion, greatly exaggerated. Does the machine get warm? Yes. However, any computer with this much power in this thin of an enclosure is going to get warm. Mine has never crashed, frozen, black screened, etc. once.
2. I don't think PS is particularly intensive on the graphics card. It may use the graphics card, yes, but I don't think it will be quite as intensive as a 3D modeling application or 3D games. I would doubt you would ever run into problems anyway.
3. Lastly I am aware that their are tools to manage fan speed behavior - as a workaround to cool down temperatures. Using this software would it void the warranty that is provided by Apple?
No, it wouldn't likely void the warranty. However, if your fans die prematurely as a result of running them at high speeds for extended periods of time, I doubt Apple would be especially happy about replacing them. I do not use any 3rd party tools to manage my fans, and never will. It is simply not necessary.
--Travis

IMac (Early 2009) Bluetooth connection keeps dropping out

I have an iMac (20-inch, Early 2009) that I love. I've used this machine for the past 3 years for absolutely everything. It's my primary computer. There is one issue that is driving me absolutely insane though.
On this machine, at random intervals my bluetooth keyboard or mouse will disconnect while I'm using it. Then, if I click the mouse or press a key on the keyboard for a few seconds, the device will re-connect. I have a Bluetooth keyboard and mouse (both Apple-branded) connected at the same time, but only one of the devices disconnects at a time. If the mouse disconnects, the keyboard will stay connected If the keyboard disconnects, the mouse stays connected.
This has happened on Mac OS X 10.6 Snow Leopard, 10.7 Lion, and 10.8 Mountain Lion. It has happened with the new aluminum Apple Wireless Keyboard and the white plastic Apple Wireless Keyboard. It has happened with the new Magic Mouse and also the older Mighty Mouse.
I've re-installed the operating system several times, and I'm running the latest software for both the Bluetooth chipset in the iMac and the keyboard/mouse. I've also completely replaced the RAM in the machine, so it's not an issue with bad RAM.
The keyboard and mouse work on my MacBook Pro (same OS, same processor, same amount of RAM, same age) without any issues. The keyboard also works with my iPad. In the same exact area of my home, this problem only occurs on the iMac. When the iMac is in different locations (or even at another home or office) the problem still occurs. I don't think it's a problem with interference, nor is it a problem with the keyboard/mouse.
I know that when the batteries get low, this problem can happen very frequently, as that's happened to me in the past. Whenever this occurs, the keyboard and mouse both have battery life above 75%. It even happens when brand new batteries are in the devices.
For a while it seemed that this only happened when there was a lot of network activity (like if I was using the Finder to copy multiple large files over the network from my file server or another Mac to this machine), and the mouse tracking would start to get really, really slow before it would disconnect. It was pretty easy to predict when the disconnect was going to happen. Now, however, it happens at random. I can be in the middle of dragging something from one window to another and the mouse will disconnect. I can be in the middle of typing a sentence and the keyboard will disconnect. There is no warning, and it happens even if there is very little activity on the machine.
I'm wondering if anyone else has had this problem. My iMac is no longer under Apple's warranty, and I don't have AppleCare for it. I plan on keeping this machine for a few more years, and am probably going to have to open it up at one point because the LCD has some faded vertical stripes that, while not a huge problem, are kind of obnoxious when watching a video or working on things that have a dark colored background. Is the Bluetooth chipset and the WiFi chipset removable on this model of iMac? From what I can remember, back in the iMac G5/Power Mac G5 days, the AirPort Extreme card had WiFi and Bluetooth on it, and it was removable. Is that the case with this iMac, or will I have to replace the entire board? Or, does anyone have another idea on how to resolve this problem?
I love this computer and I want to keep it for a few more years. I also like keeping the original peripherals (or at least peripherals from the same manufacturer and time period) with my machines, so switching to a Logitech or Microsoft keyboard/mouse set with its own USB dongle isn't that appealing to me, and it's getting much harder to find USB keyboard and mice (from Apple) that are brand new or in decent condition. I also don't know if it's possible to add a USB dongle to this machine if it already has an integrated Bluetooth chipset.
Any suggestions or assistance would be very much appreciated.

Solve problems with connecting to the Internet
http://support.apple.com/kb/PH4252
Use Network Diagnostics
http://support.apple.com/kb/PH4121

Early-2009 iMac Windows 7 Pro 64-bit

I have a 24" early-2009 iMac (2.66 Ghz, Intel based, 8 GB of RAM, 2 TB hard drive, Mountain Lion OSX). Apple's website fails to list my particular iMac in the list of machines that can only run Windows 7 Pro 32-bit so I bought a 64-bit copy (there was another website that I located that listed my iMac as being capable of running both the 32-bit and 64-bit versions). Today I went to load Windows 7 throuh bootcamp, but the instructions for bootcamp state that the 64-bit version can only work on iMacs starting in LATE 2009.
Does anyone know if the version of Windows 7 that I have will work with my iMac? Anyone had any success loading Windows 7 Pro 64-bit through bootcamp on an early-2009 iMac?
Please note that I posted a similar question earlier today, but it wasn't listed under this particular community and figured this was the better place to ask this question. Also, I have reviewed other similar postings but most seem to get into the technical issues of loading Windows 7 through bootcamp, but don't address the issue here of using an early-2009 iMac. If, however, I have overlooked such a posting then please direct me to it because I want to get Windows running so I can run Microsoft Office.
Thanks.

There has always been a way to get x64 to install - where there is will there is way. I have 2006 Mac with 64-bit processor (Xeon) but EFI is 32-bit, which would also mean that even if I used 32-bit Windows I would only be able to use a meager 1.9GB RAM! to say I ain't about to and amused at this is an understatement.
http://www.gopulls.com/blog/2009.08.26/install-windows-7-x64-on-a-mac-beat-the-s elect-cd-rom-boot-type-error/
https://discussions.apple.com/thread/2372797?threadID=2372797&tstart=0
http://sergiomcfly.blogspot.com/2008/04/select-cd-rom-boot-type-when-installing. html
Some require using your Windows in a VM first.
VirtualBox is free VM
Windows 8 Preview is also free (32/64 versions)
The iMac was really strange. Even the 2008s had Penryn 64-bit processor and Apple had started supporting both MacBook and MacBook Pro 64-bit (they later degraded MacBook to not being supported in late 2008 - really ).
You want Office, and it might run just fine in 32-bit in a VM so another reason to try VirtualBox - I know Excel runs better natively
Macs that work with 64-bit editions of Microsoft Windows Vista and Windows 7
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1846
If you see this:
"Installation error: Boot Camp x64 is unsupported on this computer model."
Means just use control+click and "Troubleshooting Compatibility Mode" and/or use the BOOTCAMP64.msi app directly instead of SETUP or anything else. I know Lion Boot Camp support software is even more agressive at this whole "unsupported" stuff - very odd to say the least.

Early-2009 Macbook display dimming

I have read several posts and watched several videos on this already, however my problem seems slightly unique as to what I have read so far. (I may be wrong about that.) My Macbook's display constantly dims to an almost black, I didn't realize the display was even on until about 2 hours ago. But I can see that the display is indeed on, I can turn it all the way down with the F1 key, then up with the F2 key, but it's hit or miss. Sometimes the display will brighten, most other times it will flicker on and go back dim. I have posted a video on this, because it was kind of hard to explain, figured it'd be easier to troubleshoot if you knew what it was doing. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OYb4Y2XE4Pw&list=UUCNnIhMJdjY9Kf_jgC2vjPw
Comp Info: Early-2009 Macbook, Running Mavericks 10.9.4
What I've tried: PRAM reset, ran Disk Utility repair, booting into Safe Mode, SMC reset, Changed energy saver modes to never dim screen... I'm out of ideas, does anyone have any suggestions.

That's ALL they did at the Apple Store? Really? Normally they'll run a diagnostic on it and at least tell you what the problem is.
Is the macbook starting up? Do you hear the start up chime? If so I'm guessing that the graphics chip has failed. IF that's the case you'll more than likely need a new logic board. Keep in mind that I'm guessing, it's impossible to diagnose hardware prolems on a user to user message board.
You can always try resetting the SMC and PRAM but I wouldn't hold my breath.

Early 2009 Macbook display problems

I have a early 2009 macbook (aluminium). when i try to turn it on all that comes up is a lit up black screen, as if it is on but nothing happens. i went in to an apple store and he connected it to an external display but still nothing happened.Please help

That's ALL they did at the Apple Store? Really? Normally they'll run a diagnostic on it and at least tell you what the problem is.
Is the macbook starting up? Do you hear the start up chime? If so I'm guessing that the graphics chip has failed. IF that's the case you'll more than likely need a new logic board. Keep in mind that I'm guessing, it's impossible to diagnose hardware prolems on a user to user message board.
You can always try resetting the SMC and PRAM but I wouldn't hold my breath.

Early 2009 MacBook backlight inverter problem?

My early 2009 MacBook is having a bit of trouble with the display backlight. Nowadays in order to get the backlight to turn on I need to fiddle around with the display until it comes on, then I have to keep it steady or it may go out again. I have traced the problem to the backlight, because when my screen blacks out if I look real closely or shine a light on it, I can see the stuff on the screen.
I know this can be fixed. I do not want to risk opening the MacBook to do so, because I could probably break something (this once happened when I attempted to repair a PowerBook G4; I wound up disabling the Wi-Fi.) I did hear from someone who had the same problem with the same model early this year, he took it to his nearest Apple Store, and even though it was no longer under warranty, it only cost $45 for the inverter to be replaced! (It also had a chipped palmrest and that helped with the fee too; mine has a somewhat chipped palmrest as well.) Does Apple really do something like that, or would I be better off with a local computer repair shop?
Plrease reply ASAP

The inverter regualtes the power to the back light, i had macbook 2008 inverter break on me and attempted the fix myself. £10 ($15) for the inverter on ebay and about an hour of my time. The reason its a tricky fix is because the inverter is in the hinge of the screen so the whole screen needs to be removed! as i put it back together i was silently praying that i had put everything back right!
it worked fien though! i no 2 year ago when the original owner of that mac took it to be looked at they quoted her £ 150 ($230) to have it fixed so its good to see the price has come down for you!

Speeding up an early 2009 Mac Pro

This is not a question - it is an answer.
Starting configuration: Dual quad core 2.26GHz early 2009 Mac Pro (4,1) already expanded to 12 GB RAM; 175GB SSD, 1TB RAID 0 internal HD configuration, 2 1TB external d2 Quadra HDs (1 for cloned backup, the other for Time machine) connected via FW 800. A Superdrive, and an LG Blu-Ray burner, both internal.
My uses: Frequent business use of Microsoft Office and Acrobat Pro; occasional use of Adobe Photoshop Elements, frequent internet access via Safari and Mail; much use of iTunes and iPhoto, some Aperture, and occasional creation and burning of movies and slide shows to DVD and Blu-Ray with iDVD, Final Cut Express, Toast Titanium.
Problem: Extremely slow from power on to the first open program with a usable menu (usually 2-1/2 minutes). Extremely slow changing from one menu item to the next and very slow opening files. Glacial at performing those operations if a backup was ongoing.
Earlier efforts: Followed conventional wisdom for speed by adding 6 GB of RAM, bringing it to 12 GB (though my RAM usage rarely exceeded 3 GB). Added a small SSD containing only the OS and all applications; mapped the home folder to the internal 1 TB RAID 0 comprising 2 540GB 7200 rpm SATA 2 drives (but - having to access the internal RAID for all data files made the addition of the small SSD a futile exercise). The external drives are also 7200 rpm.
Here is what worked!! I replaced the 175GB SSD with a 1 TB Samsung EVO 840 SSD ($565) and re-mapped the home folder back to the SSD; added a Newer Tech MaxPower eSATA PCIe card ($87); connected the two external 1TB drives via eSATA rather than FW 800, which tripled their speed. My OS, applications and data files are around 600 GB, so the 1 TB SSD was large enough to handle everything, while the 175 GB drive wasn’t.
While the EVO 840 SSD and the eSATA card are SATA 3 rated (6Gb/s), the internal bus of the early Mac Pro is SATA 2 (3Gb/s), which is the maximum at which the system will operate. In addition, the internal and external hard drives drives themselves are also SATA 2 (the Superdrive and Blu-Ray burner are SATA 1, but slow nothing down when not being used; and SATA 1 is plenty fast for burners limited to 16X anyway).
The result: It now takes 60 to 61 seconds from power on until Safari opens with a useable menu (including the 5 seconds or so to select the user and log in), a speedup of 90 seconds. In more stark terms, from power on to the log-in screen appears under the old setup was 46 seconds, and with the new, 41 seconds (system and RAM checks take roughly the same amount of time regardless of the drive used); but once the user is selected and the access code is entered, the new setup takes 14 to 15 seconds vice 1 minute 45 seconds! Even better, moving from one menu item to the next in an open application is immediate. Files open quickly. And, there is NO detectable slowdown while any of the frequent backups are ongoing. Performance is now very fast, again.
My Mac Pro cost $3400 when new, and has of course been improved. A used 2012 Mac Pro 6 core with 3.33 GHz chipset would have run $2800 or more, and provided slightly higher GeekBench scores operating single-core, but slower multi-core speeds than I already have. A 3.33GHz 12 core machine refurbished by Apple would have run $5400, and provided 1/3 faster single core speeds, and the multi-core speeds would have been twice as fast, according to GeekBench. The new late 2013 4-core Mac Pro, while beautiful, would have run $4200 delivered (my upper limit), and would have required more investment to put the Superdrive and Blu-Ray burner into enclosures. Here is what amazed me: While its single-core speed would have been 78% faster, its multi-core GeekBench score was slower than my current machine! I guess those extra 4 cores make a difference.
The GeekBench scores heavily weigh processor-intensive functions, such as video compositing and editing, or working with large photo and graphic files. Those are not my primary uses, and spending money for significant performance gains in those areas made no sense for my use. But the $650 I spent for the 1TB SSD and eSATA PCIe card completely solved the slowdown I was experiencing. For my uses, that $650 was a much wiser investment than any of the other options. It gave me speed where I needed it, and not where it would have done little for me.

True but I catch all the Mail, Cache, /SyncServices and /Application Support - and for some reason the /Preferences folder is getting hit a lot.
The reason I use CCleaner is just to wipe clean all the brower type caches in one fell swoop. They get large and unwildly and harder to manage. Easy and faster to just download. Use to use a RAMDisk for the "web.cache" file or folders at one time to speed up system and surfing.
The entire ~/Library is 3GB for me
So even if it was 10GB it would still be fine and make sense to include the "home user account" ~/Library (you can of course include more)
Only saying to locate my 700GB of documents, media files and libraries "elsewhere" - pefect for a 2TB hdd. Or a pair of 10K WD VR 1TB drives though even they are limited if using SATA2 AND you have the system on same bus you start to hit the 700MB/sec that Mac Pro controller can handle.
So the ideal would have high access and to allow concurrent searches and IO in memory first, in cache memory buffers to drive controller and drives, and then use an SSD, before getting to the actual slower hdd. The choise of hdd also matters. Some 500GB drives are more like 85MB/sec at best vs 145MB for a single 2TB Seagate Constellation ($200) or WD Black. And no need to take up two drive bays.
Back to case in point, if you want to put the entire user account on its own SSD, fine but its cost for what performance is not what I would do. Even a small 128GB or spend another $70 for 250GB SSD instead, and leave all the user home account's media files on a slow 7.2K drive. Some 7.2k drives can do much much better on SATA3 / 6G. The 1TB 10K WD VR gets writes as well as reads in the 180-200MB/sec. which is about as good as it gets outside of SSD on a SATA2 bus and is only $200 (4-8X the storage of the SSDs I was talking about).

SuperDrives are backwards (Early-2009 Mac Pro)

Greetings:
I have two SuperDrives installed in my Early-2009 Mac Pro. When I hit the eject button the bottom tray comes out, option + eject brings out the top tray. When I burn things in Disk Utility the OS refers to the physically located bottom drive as "Upper SuperDrive".
I know it's not a huge issue, but I'm wondering if its an easy fix?
I popped the side panel off and checked the SATA/Power connections. Since that cable is pretty tightly wrapped the connectors can only go in one way (the little extended one has to go on the bottom drive).
So I figured the coonnectors on the motherboard are probably backwards.
Are they easy to get to? Or is this a huge pain and not worth it?
Thanks!
- D

It does. Initially I thought I could reverse them, but they're so tightly bundled that they won't reach that way.
- D

IMac (early 2009) not connecting to wifi

Excuse my typing I'm on my iPad so there may be errors!
Day before yesterday my router dropped the signal. By morning it was back on all all devices (iPad, iPod, Xbox, my dads pc etc) were working fine, but now my iMac will to connect to the wifi. It's driving me Barmy! I've called the provider, there is no problem their end any more, and they know nothing about macs so couldn't help.
I have tried everything. I've renewed my dchp lease, I've restarted and reset the router, restarted my mac, unplugged everything, forgot my network, created a new location... I've been trawling the Internet on my iPad for hours at a time looking for a solution, but there is nothing. Every single problem I've encountered seems to have a different cause, or their computer is different etc.
I am very, very reluctant to mess with my system settings so please don't suggest I go in and edit system files because I'd mess it up!
I am using 10.7.5 and my iMac is early 2009 20". I am with virgin media and cannot connect via Ethernet due to where the modem is placed. Is nearby, but plugging it in would mean wires trailing across the top of the stairs which would be dangerous!
Cn anyone help? I tearing my hair out! Tank you!

Some users with various Wi-Fi connection problems have reported that they were given the following instructions by Apple Support, sometimes with success. I can't vouch for this procedure myself. After completing the procedure, you'll have to recreate all your settings in the Network preference pane. Make sure you know how to do that before you begin. Taking screenshots of the preference pane may be helpful.
Step 1
Back up all data.
Triple-click the line below the line you're reading now to select it:
/Library/Preferences/SystemConfiguration
Right-click or control-click the highlighted line and select
Services ▹ Reveal
from the contextual menu.* A folder should open with an item named "SystemConfiguration" selected. Move the selected item to the Trash. You may be prompted for your administrator password.
*If you don't see the contextual menu item, copy the selected text to the Clipboard (command-C). In the Finder, select
Go ▹ Go to Folder...
from the menu bar, paste into the box that opens (command-V). You won't see what you pasted because a line break is included. Press return.
Step 2
Reset the System Management Controller

Purchase additional storage for mac early 2009

Hi there,
Firstly I am technically challenged.
I have a Mac early 2009 20" with Airport Express & Airport Time Capsule (think 1T) which I purchased at the same time. I also have a Mac Book Pro.
I would like to purchase an external hard drive for the main purpose of music & photo storage.
Am I better to purchase the new Airport time capsule & then use the old one for the music & photo storage?
AND is this difficult to set up?
Didee333

Any external HD will work, you do not need an additional Time Capsule. I would recommend a quality EHD such as an OWC (www.macsales.com) Mercury Elite Pro. Your machine has a Firewire 800 connection, I would recommend getting the disk with at least 1 FW 800 port.
Also you will find instructions from Apple on moving your iTunes, iMovie and iPhoto libraries to an external HD. Just use Google to locate the specific web pages.

Trying to find if can upgrade RAM on early 2009 iMac 2.66. Has 4GB. Says has 2 slots each accepts 1067 MHz DDR3 module

I have an early 2009 24-inch iMac (2.66 intel core 2 duo) with 4GB memory and am trying to establish if I can upgrade the memory, hopefully to improve performance and prevent regular/occasional slowdown/sticking. Spec tells me I have 2 memory slots, each of which accepts a 1067MHz DDR3 memory module. It says all are currently in use and shows 2GB in each. So, question is can I upgrade or is this the max it can take? I'd like to upgrade, say, to 8GB, 4GB in each slot, if they have the capacity for that, which isn't clear.
Also wondering if this will improve performance - i.e. prevent occasional but sometimes regular sticking/slowing of performance, spinning wheel, etc. Activity monitor often shows just single or three-figure MB 'free' - mostly as a result of having multiple web pages open (have 8 saved tabs regularly open). That said, all my problems started some time ago when I 'upgraded' to Lion. But general view seems to be that memory is best bet for such problems.
If I can upgrade, am I right to understand that Mac memory is way overpriced and that it's OK/safe to use third-party memory and that a total non-expert can install that?
Any help appreciated.
geoff

Each slot can accommodate up to a 4GB module; upgrading both slots will max out your RAM at 8GB.
How much performance boost you see depends on many variables, one of which being your version of the Mac OS, which we don't know at this time. My experience is that, for the average user (word processing, web browsing, e-mail), 4GB RAM is fine up to Mac OSX 10.8 Mountain Lion. Please tell us what OS you have and how you use the computer (task-wise) and we can better suggest if an upgrade will help.
Install RAM in an iMac is an easy, 10-minute and at-home job. Video instructions here:
http://eshop.macsales.com/installvideos/imac_mid_2007_mem/
RAM is expensive if you get it from Apple. Fortunately for you, they only sell extra RAM for the latest models. For over a decade I have bought RAM from one vendor online and never had an issue. I find their Mac RAM roughly equal in price to RAM for the "Dark Side" computers. I am supporting about 25 Macs between family and friends, so have some credibility as an advanced user.
If you give us a rough idea of where you are located, we can suggest reliable vendors of Mac- compatible RAM.

Xserve early 2009 and Service Diagnostics

I've got an Xserve early 2009 (Xserve3,1) that has its fans constantly blowing at maximum speed.
I'd like to run ASD of AXD to locate the problem. Using Disk Utility I made boot disks (CD-ROM, USB, ...) containing ASD 3X106 and AXD 3X104. But the Xserve doesn't recognize neither of them as boot disks. It's impossible to boot from these disks.
Does anyone have the proper procedure to run ASD or AXD on an Xserve?
David

Make sure you are using 3X106 http://support.apple.com/kb/DL948 first.
I made this into a bootable image on my external hard drive. So all i have to do is plug the usb drive to the front of the xserve and boot to it.
Before you do any of this though I would try to reset the SMC. You can do that by shutting down the xserve and unpluging both power plugs for 1 min.
See if that makes a change first, If not go into server monitor and check your temps, maybe one of the sensors is bad and reporting that the machine is hot when its not.

Location of northbridge chip? early 2009, 4,1

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for