Loose Fan Ball Bearing?

So I just got my replacement Quad two weeks ago... since then, I've noticed a sort of high-speed clicking sound (that i can hear across the room when it's quiet) that is somewhat intermittent... it'll start up and last maybe 10 seconds or so... it sounds a bit like a hard drive being accessed but softer...
I believe I have localized it to near the power supplies at the bottom of the tower... does this mean that this is something loose (a ball bearing or something) in the PSU fans?

OK... It's definitely the right PSU fan... I was watching it with a flash light and as soon as it stops (when the machine sleeps), I can hear the clicking fade away if it is active...
Both power supplies of my previous Quad (the original and the replacement) did not make this noise... am I correct in assuming that it is not the norm?

Similar Messages

Strange rattling/loose fan spinning sound?

Every so often, randomly? The fan inside my iMac produces a strange sound, it's not incredibly loud and it can sometimes be quiet but sometimes also a bit louder, it sounds like the fan is loose, rattling or perhaps touching something as it spins? It goes on for perhaps 20 seconds and then stops, sometimes it can be very quiet, or just quiet, sometimes it goes on for shorter or longer periods of time.
I've only had the system say... 6 months, so I'm not terribly worried about it, just wondering if anyone had any ideas of what it could be, and if I could get it repaired even if the issue couldn't be reproduced?
Many thanks!

I would say go ahead and call AppleCare. They might have you make an appointment at an Apple Store or closer Authorized Service Center. If so, you probably should be prepared to leave it because it's an intermittent problem, but only Apple can make that call.

Pls advise PSU and CPU temp.

At last i have decided to go for Herolchi HEC 525w Dual Fan Ball Bearing ATX Power Supply, after installing the New PSU my CPU Temperature go up by 3 degree...not sure whether all the RAIL will effect the temperature ?
Pls take a look on my comparison : -
Old PSU Young-Year 480W (Taiwan)
Vcore : 1.48 ~ 1.50
+ 3.3v : 3.10 ~ 3.17
+ 5v : 5.08 (no changes)
+ 12v : 11.64 ~ 12.00
System : 35 ~ 38 degree
CPU idle : 40 degree
full load : 57 degree (Prime95 & CPU burn-In)
New HEC 525W (recommded my Intel and AMP)
Vcore : 1.47 ~ 1.50
+ 3.3v : 3.30 ~ 3.36
+ 5v : 4.97 ~ 5.0
+ 12v : 11.76 ~ 11.88 (never hit to 12.00)
System : 36 ~ 39 degree
CPU idle : 43 degree
full load : 60 degree (Prime 95 & CPU burn-in)
Understand that all the variance for the above RAIL are within Spec +_ 5%
Hi All, pls help to post all your RAIL lowest/highest for +3.3v, +5.0v and +12v..as well as system/CPU temperature, thanks....

I would not worry about the extra 3 Deg. C that the CPU is now running at. 60C under full load is well withen normal specs. ..As for the new PSU, I am not familiar with that brand...If you could ,would you POST the AMPS on the RAILS, as that is more important than the Volts...You can find the AMP specs. on the side sticker of the PSU..ie..+12V=?A, +3.3V=?A, +5.0V=?A...THANX..Sean REILLY875

Connecting Two Power Supplies in one PC

Hello there :hypecrite:
Will someone help me on how to connect two Switching P/S in one PC (If it's possible)?
I tried using two P/S in my old PC and it's working just fine. However, the problem is that I cannot switch them on simultaneously because the one is connected directly to the motherboard and the other, I just used a simple switch to turn it on.
Also, please check my P/S for this PC if it's OK.
Thank you and more POWER!!!
:hypecrite:

Hello again :hypecrite:
Thank you for your support guyz. I would like to tell you that you are all correct.
I think it's time for me to stop fooling aroung, experimenting things, too. And to trust the verdors instead. I looked for the psu brands that you all mentioned and it turned out my pockets could still handle such a cost, eventhough it costs twice as much as the psu that I have right now, but as long as it's dependable.
And about the problem with my CPU's temperature that I posted last November 12, 2004 (MSI KT4A-V with S/PDIF out and Core center), AMD support center finally replied to me and told me that my temp is OK but not to go above 70C.
Below is my inquiry to AMD and their reply:
My inquiry:
Dear Sir:
I would like to ask what is the NORMAL operating temperature of Athlon XP 2400+ FSB 266 model 8?
When my PC is at idle, my CPU temp reading is 60C and during full load, it reaches to about 66C. It doesn't have any problems though (such as random reboot) but I'm a bit concerned of the temperature reading. Some people say that it's a bit TOO HOT for comfort. Still others say that it is OK. What do you think?
I have read your post on MAXIMUM operating temperatures of Athlon XPs but not the recommended NORMAL operating temperatures.
And also when I turn the BIOS CPU core voltage to AUTO mode the default is 1.575V. My friends said the minimal operating voltage of 2400+ is 1.650V. Is it OK to just leave it to default?
Thank you very much
Sincerely,
Mark E. Guillem
Philippines
My PC Specifications:
AMD Athlon XP 2400+ (Family 6, Model 8, Stepping 1), FSB266 256L2
GlobalWin TAK68 CPU fan (dual fan, ball bearing 5200RPM max each)
MSI KT4A-V (VIA KT400 chipset) BIOS ver. 2.3 date: 09092004 (with MSI Core Center)
512MB DDR333 mem (2x256MB)
Inno3D GeForce FX 5200 128MB with AGP8x w/ TV out
80GB Maxtor 7200RPM 1x133
40GB Seagate 5400RPM 1x100
LiteON LDW 411S DVDRW 40x12x40
LITE-ON XJ-HD166S DVDROM 16x
Pinnacle PCI PCTV Rave TV tuner/capture card
OS: Windows XP SP2
The Reply:
Dear Guillem,
Thank you for contacting Asian and Pacific AMD Technical Support Centre.
I can confirm that the temperatures ranges from 40° - 55° C in moderate usage and with a higher workload around 65° C, but never over 70° C.
What the correct voltage is concerned there are three models of the Athlon XP 2400+. If you have the CPU with the OPN AXDA2400DUV3C the
voltage should be 1.60V otherwise it is 1.65V.
It seems your system would overheat dangerously when set to the right voltage. I would suggest, you do check if the heatsink /fan is installed
properly.
You may find a different reading after upgrading your BIOS.
* Please make sure to download the right BIOS version for your motherboard.
Then, please, make sure that your processor Athlon XP 2400+ is configured in BIOS as follows:
- FSB speed to 133MHz (It is a bidirecctional bus, the full speed would be 266)
- CPU multiplier of 15x
- CPU voltage of 1.65V (1.60V if OPN = AXDA2400DUV3C)
With these settings the clock frequency of the processor should be 2000 MHz.
And finally you can test the CPU on another system to establish if the processor or the motherboard is responsible for the problem . If no other system is
available to you then ask your retailer/reseller to test it for you.
Given the case that the processor is faulty, we inform you that the PIB processors (box processors) have 3 years warranty, whilst OEM processors (tray processors) have only one year. In both cases the first year is given by the reseller and the PIB processors second and third years are served directly by AMD.
If you have any further questions, please, do not hesitate to contact us again.
Kind regards,
Roberto Erler
Technical Support Engineer
Spain: 900 99 71 21 (Número Gratuito)
France: 0800 908 621 (Numéro Vert)
Germany: +49 89 450 53199
Italy: 800 877 224
United Kingdom: +44 1276 803 299
Yesterday, I increased the CPU voltage to 1.60V (from the default of 1.575) and my temp reading was reduced to 50C at idle (from an idle of 60C) and at full load to 60C (from a full load of 66C). I was not expecting this though. I was expecting that my CPU's temp will increase further. But this is what happened. I guess the RIGHT THING should be the RIGHT THING.
Tomorrow, I will buy a new psu with the brands that you mentioned and I hope that my PC's stability and performance will increase further.
Again thank you very much for your support and all.
:hypecrite:

PSU - Heroichi reliable ?

Hi All,
Sorry, i'm new here, pls help to advise me by comparing both PSU, Heroichi seem better? But Antec is very popular .....but very expensive..
Whether Heroichi 525w Dual Fan Ball Bearing ATX Power Supply reliable, can be truthed ?
+3.3v = 37A
+ 5v = 45A
+ 12v = 21A
Which i have compare it with Truepower Antez 480w
+3.3v = 30A
+ 5v = 38A
+ 12v = 22A
Existing PSU do not give me any problem, feel secure to get a better unit..
Thanks.....

I am not familiar with Heroichi so I can't comment on it's quality. One thing to keep in mind with the Antec Truepower series is each rail is independent so you don't encounter a max. combined rail rating on a pair of rails. Another comparison to make is the variation between no-load and load voltages. A quality power supply will keep this well within 5% where some will allow variations of 10%.
You can always google
Heoroichi power supply quality
and see if there have been any performance reviews on it.

X220 complete fan failure

I've had my X220 for about a year now. At first, I didn't experience any problems with the fan, no revving up/down like some describe, and it was pretty quiet.
After about 9 months of usage, the fan started to get pretty noisy. As I also usually have a room fan always on, I didn't care much because the room fan overpowered the laptop fan.
Then, at about 10 months ago, one fine day CoreTemp pops up a message that my CPU temp is critical, I was just watching a movie with no background stuff going on. I've checked TPFanControl and the fan wasn't running. It was also not responding to TPFanControl's smart or manual modes.
I turned off the laptop, removed the keyboard and powered it on again. The fan would spin a few revs at pretty low speed, then just stop. I allowed the system to boot like that, and tried to start the fan with TPFanControl's manual mode. When I switched the fan from speed 0 to any other speed, I could see the fan blades to move just a little bit (maybe 1mm) and then stop again.
The laptop is on warranty, but I bought it in USA, and I live in Thailand now. Also this is my primary work computer and I didn't want any unnecessary downtime, so I decided to fix it myself.
I wrote quite a lot, those not interested in the disassembly story, just skip the next paragraph.
Well, luckily I decided not to sell my old Z61m, I booted it up to view the X220 Hardware Maintenance Manual: http://download.lenovo.com/ibmdl/pub/pc/pccbbs/mobiles_pdf/x220_x220i_hmm_0a60739_06.pdf
Using an old laptop, which one year ago didn't feel slow, after being accustomed to the new one, was really sluggish. Part of the reason might be that I recently installed Windows 7 on it (it's got 4Gb RAM in it, of which the chipset can only use 3Gb). By the way, one time I had my Z61m's fan become really noisy, too (but never fail completely), I did disassemble, clean and oil the fan - and getting to the fan was much easier than on X220.
On X220 to get to the underside of the fan, you have to remove the motherboard, the heatsink assembly is screwed to the motherboard from it's underside. That's wasn't hard for me, but I could easily see messing up some small component. To remove the motherboard, I had to remove the HDD, speakers, bluetooth module, WiFi module, mSATA SSD, disconnect a few flat-ribbon connectors, unclip a few regular connectors, free the wifi antenna cables, video cable from their grooves in the bezel, remove the bezel. And then the motherboad still wouldn't come off - the two nuts holding the VGA connector have to be removed. And when I moved to Thailand, I didn't bring my 5mm hex socket with me. So I had to drive around (I live in a small city), trying to find it. Tool shops, hardware shops, computer shops didn't have it! Well, a tool shop had a huge kit of 1/4" DR tools, I wasn't gonna spend so much money just to get one 5mm socket. In the end I could find a low quality 1/4" DR sockets set in a Tesco supermarket, for $2. But what do you know? The cheap sockets have thick walls, so the wall thickness doesn't allow it to fit around the nut (the laptop's case is in the way). Too bad I don't have a lathe... well here comes the drill to hold the socket and the angle grinder. Finally I was able to unscrew the nuts and take out the motherboard.
To get out the audio connector from it's hole in the case, I have to flex the motherboard quite a lot, I know it's fiberglass and strong, but it does feel quite scary (the narrowest part of the mainboard is just maybe an inch wide).
I then tilted the motherboard up disconnected the power cable (it's a bit tricky, but I think it's the most efficient way - some say to remove the LCD to do that! that's totally unnecessary), took the motherboard out and unscrewed the heatsink/fan assembly.
The fan would turn by hand or by blowing air into it, but wouldn't keep rotating as soon as I stop blowing. The blades are fortunately removable (just grab them and pull), I cleaned them and the insides with some methyl alcohol, let it dry, then put some TriFlow teflon oil in there and put the blades back on. I then put everything back together, and it worked fine. Assembly, as usual, is the reverse of disassembly. The fan works, and is pretty quiet again (I'd say about the same as it was new).
The fan is sleeve bearing. I think it's not a good practice to put sleeve bearing fans into laptops. When a ball bearing fan fails, it just rotates at reduced speed, with plenty of noise and vibration. Giving a lot of warning time that it should be replaced. A sleeve bearing fan can just stop turning completely, not making any noise to indicate failure. It's very fortunate that CPUs (and some other hardware) have automatic overheat protection (thermal throttling). I suppose Lenovo just had some temporary problem sourcing the necessary qty of ball bearing fans when they were producing X220, so they just put in an alternative they could find. I don't think they did this just to save $1 per laptop. In any case, my advices for X220 owners is, if your fan has become noisier than before, open it up and clean/oil it, better now than later. I would only advise this job to people who have straight hands growing from the right place, not from their ass (that's a saying we have in Russia). There is nothing really difficult about this job (first time will take 2-3 hours, with experience you can do the whole job in under 1 hour), but you have to be careful. There are a lot of small parts that can be dropped or damaged by static electricity. There are many screws of different sizes that can be mixed up (my advise is to use a small container with multiple compartments, and put the screws into different compartments, along with a piece of paper saying where does this group of screws go. Have to be very careful disconnecting the connectors, especially the flat ribbon type. No sharp or metal tools should be used for this task! Use only fingernails or something plastic. Also use care to properly align the flat ribbon cables when connecting (locking) them. It's good to take pictures of the whole process, especially things like cable routing. You'll thank yourself for this when putting it back together. The hardware maintenance manual is also pretty useful (might be not so easy to find the right info, though, have to read carefully). Print it or use another computer or a mobile device to access it when doing the job. As noted, you will need a 5mm thin-wall socket (any good quality 1/4" DR socket will be thin wall, while cheap nasty stuff will be thick wall) to unscrew the VGA connector. The nuts are not tight from the factory (at least mine were not), so you might be able to use another tool, but I think even the smallest needle-nose pliers won't fit there, there's really too little room between the nuts and the case. A sturdy tweezers with round ends (or cut off ends) might do the job, but I'm a believer in using a proper tool for a job, at least when talking about a $1000 computer (this is not very Russian of me, where a common tool for automotive repair is often a hammer and a block of wood; a saying goes: if you fail - use a bigger hammer). Obviously you also need a small-size electronics screwdriver.
A thing I had a problem with: the heatsink contacts both CPU and the chipset (which is common in notebooks), there was thermal compound on the CPU and a thermal pad on the chipset (I would say 0.5mm thick). Unfortunately I tore up the pad when removing the heatsink. If you're careful, usually you can reuse the pad. The pad is there for the reason that the CPU and the chipset surfaces are not on the same plane, so if assembled with just a super-thin layer of thermal compound (like you're supposed to for optimal heat conduction), the chipset wouldn't touch the heatsink and would overheat. Since I didn't have a spare thermal pad on hand, I used a thick layer of thermal compound (I used Arctic Silver 5, which is pretty thick consistency and not very likely to flow out of there) on the chipset. I also ordered some thermal pads on eBay, to have it just in case.
I haven't noticed any significant decrease in temperatures with the new thermal compound, even after 200 engine hours the AS5 needs for optimal performance. It might be cooler by a couple of degrees, but not by much.
I'm sorry I deleted the pics I took during disassembly.
Solved!
Go to Solution.

A .5mm layer of thermal paste will not do a very good job of heat conduction. There will be air bubbles. No matter how well you spread out the thermal paste on the CPU die, you will never get the kind of even, thin layer that you get with a new fan, which comes with lots of little dots. BTW, very small needle-nosed pliers work fine to start the VGA nuts. The first time I take a particular model apart, I tape the screws near the place the will go back using "painter's masking tape", which leaves no adhesive residue.

I need an new Fan for my MacPro

Hi,
i need a new Fan for my MacPro only the Fan because with the ball-bearing its something wrong when it's slow rotage (about 500rpm) it makes .klack*..klack...
I dont won't to send the Mac away for two Weeks only for replace the Fan.
(i don't have two)
I think i have warranty beacuse i have bogth it on Nov 10, 2006.
It's possible that Apple send me only the Fan? It's that behind Memory expansion Slots.
It will be cheaper and easyer for both sides.
Message was edited by: Zeljko

my only concern is that unless they inspect it themselves, i don't think they'd be willing to just send you a new one, because they don't know that you actually need one. I think they'd be suspicious, possibly thinking that you just want to sell the fan to someone else. However, they may work with you on this. I suggest you call Apple.

Satellite L650-13M: scratching sounds while fan reaches 65% or higher

Hello,
with a look at my TOSHIBA PC Health Monitor, everything looks fine, but everytime the speed level of my cooler reaches 65% or higher it makes loud noises (the higher the louder), a little like scratching sounds...
Don't know how to explain that better, hopefully this Problem is all know...
How to stop that?
Thanks! =)
/Center

Hi
Maybe the fan problem or simply dust and debris prevent the fans from quietly rotating
If the fans are dirty, the compressed air spray might be helpful.
I clean my fans from time to time using such spray
Its the easiest method to remove the dust.
At the other hand your fan could malfunctionsmaybe the small ball bearing inside the module is faulty in such case the fan needs to be replaced.

AGP G4/400 fans growling at me

I have a 400 mhz AGP G4 that I use as my main computer. Now I have noticed it is making quite a large amount of noise. The fans are quite loud and im not sure which one is the noisiest but im pretty sure they both are quite loud. Some times when I start up the computer the fans make a growling noise while beggining to spin up. I've stuck a hair dryer in there and blown out all the dust in the case and it is still noisy. Would it be inexpensive/easy to replace the case fan/PSU fan, and if so what are the types of fans I would need?
thanks,
Allen

Have you used compressed air to clean out any accumulated dust in and around the fans? If dust isn't a contributing cause of the noise, you may wish to replace them. This recent Topic discussed replacement of the fans in the G4-AGP model. The cost isn't high and keeping the internal temperatures down is very important. To quiet noisy fans, some have reported success by removing the foil label on the back of the fan, applying a light lubricant, and re-applying the label or piece of vinyl tape (to keep the lubricant from dripping out). I've had to do this for some of those non-standard, mini-fans on graphics cards. If a fan has gotten noisy, either the sleeve bearing or ball bearing race has probably gotten worn from friction. With large, industry-standard fans readily available, I'd rather replace a noisy one. The case fan isn't such a headache to remove and try lubricating, but if you go to the trouble of removing the power supply to access the fan for a temporary fix like this, your time would be better spent by just replacing it. A lubricated, older fan will never compare to a new one. As I mentioned in another Topic, you want to purchase fans with high airflow for the speed, but pay attention to the noise level (dBA rating) indicated. Cooling fans should do their job, without being noticed.

6600GT fan

Hey everyone
I recently bought a MSI 6600GT, I'm very pleased with it.. should last me a fair while
After about 3 weeks of use I started getting a rough sounding noise on start up.. would usually go before I reach the desktop. Now I get a faint ball bearing noise in general use. Stopping the fan for a few seconds stops the noise.. Can anyone recommend a fairly cheap alternative heatsink with fan? (£10 range?)
Or should I claim off the warranty? I don't think its fatal, but pretty annoying.
Thanks

No worries I get that alot, the mystery known as AOL doing its thing!
Thanks very much, will contact them asap.

Northbridge fan problems

i have a K7N2 Delta ILSR ... as of today, ive been having a prob with my northbridge cooler fan... PCAlert4 will report the fan as no moving, but i can look and tell that it is... any ideas?

titan vga cooler
im using it.
its quiet and efficient and running in silent mode.
if you get this one make sure you get the dual ball bearing model as it has an expected lifespan of 5.7 years / 50000 hours

Satellite L fan making a buzzing noise

Just today my laptop fan has been emitting an annoying buzzing sound when the fan is on. I've had no problem with this before today.
Any ideas what's causing this and what solutions there are?
Thanks
Dan

Hello
Yes, the fan could be malfunctioning or lets say the ball bearing is malfunctioning. Usually it should make any unusual noises expect the fan noise itself.
What you can do is cleaning your notebook using compressed air spray. Maybe dust is blocking the fan so you can blow it out using compressed air spray.
But if it doesnt help the fan needs replacing and this can be done from an authorized service provider in your country. :)

Connet cpu fan power to m/b or psu?

Hi,
finally my new computer case and thermaltake volcano 9 came this mornig.
I have a question about the power connection since I found a big connector (same as HDD's) which is used to connect to psu directily. I have K7N2G-ILSR M/B. should I plug my volcano 9 on the M/B or on the psu 12v connectoer?
Below is info about vocalno 9:
P/N A1365
Cooler Dimension 80x80x77.3 mm
Fan Dimension 80x80x25 mm
Rated Voltage 12VDC
Started Voltage 6VDC
Rated Current 0.20AMP ~ 0.70AMP
Power Input 2.40W ~ 8.40W
Max. Air Flow 20.55 CFM at 1300 rpm
75.7 CFM at 4800 rpm
Air Pressure 1.45mmH2O at 1300rpm
8.43mmH2O at 4800rpm
Noise 17 dB at 1300 rpm
48 dB at 4800 rpm
Bearing Type Two Ball Bearing
Life Time 50,000 hours
Connector 3 PIN
Tt Fan grille TR=0.38C/W

to the psu,if it does not have a seperate single wire speed sensor to plug in boards socket disable cpu fan detection in the bios,plug a case fan in there for first boot as it might not boot if it senses no cpu fan
big fan like that would pull to many watts and just burn out fan header

K8n diamond plus northbridge fan model?

hi! anyone got any idea what is the brand or the model number of the transparent northbridge fan used on the k8n diamond plus?
what is the bearing system used in that fan, ball or sleeve?

leekh . . . . .
. . . . . . welp, by measuring / researching for here, it stand's at a " 40 X 40 X 10mm " size of a fan...........
.......... . . . . click over to here . . . . . > > > > and this is the closest thing that i have found for a replacement, with having maybe the closest to the same fan speed as well as maybe the closest of "db" for fan noise, {@29"db", 7.5 cfm @ 6500 rpm using a normal 3-pin fan plug for power} . . . >>> ( they do show of another in same size, BUT faster rpm...like 8500, which mean's more NOISE, like 34 "db" & 8.3 cfm BUT gotta use a 4pin_molex power plug )........ . .click here 2 C . . . />......hopefully this will help ya out some...... . . . . .
mr. Charles
.

K8N Neo4 Platinum NorthBridge Fan

I've had a K8N platinum motherboard for about a year and a half now and have had lots of problems with the northbridge fan. The first one they included started rattling and went out within about 6 months. I replaced it with another socket fan, which has recently started making the same noises. I decided to give up on these fans since they did not last and attached a heatsink. I booted up my computer however, and discovered that the heatsink is hot to the touch. I reinstalled windows on my machine and no longer have the diagnostic software which tells me the temperature for my northbridge chipset. I have heard different accounts for how hot a north bridge chip should be.
Does anyone have any advice? How hot can the north bridge get without getting fried? Should I leave on the heatsink or replace it with a better ball bearing fan? Any suggestions for good fans?

marcus65,
That was one of the issues I had with finding a cooling solution for my motherboard. I attached an ATI graphics card (x700 i believe) and it does cover the northbridge partially. I bought a zalman heatsink which was about an inch and a half high and did not fit between the northbridge and the video card. I had to find a shorter heatsink. Thanks to everyone that posted suggestions. I think I will order a ball bearing fan/heatsink for my northbridge.
Pahn

Loose Fan Ball Bearing?

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