Macbook vs Macbook Air

Hello.
I have a technical question, that might sound ignorant for some... but I would like to have it answered, please.
I had a Macbook - late 2010, which was stolen recently. I would liek to buy either a Macbook Air 13' inch or a Macbook Pro 13' inch (non retina).
My question is... (be aware that I know what are the hardware differences between these models)
1. Compared to a Macbook - late 2010, is the Macbook Air 13' inch better? Or less powerful? (I noticed that it has less SSD space & a different processor).
2. Compared to a Macbook - late 2010 the Macbook Pro 13' inch (non Retina) is better! BUT, is it better than the Macbook Air?! (I noticed that it has a lot more HDD space & a differente processor).
I'm aware that the Macbook Air doesn't have a superdrive (something I require to use in my line of work!).
And I'm aware that I can buy an external supeordrive & an external HDD for any of them.
Basically, I wanted to now what were the most negative aspects (in terms of harware) of both models, in comparition to the Macbook - late 2010.
Thank you for any information you may provide me.
All the best.

JMPC wrote:
Personally, I believe that the most recent models (such has the Retina Displays & Air) have one thing that I don't enjoy: SSD! I mean, I enjoy that kind of hardware, BUT, I still think it has a low quantity of Gbs! Also, I still think it's too expensive to change to a better SSD!
Yes, a drawback of the SSD is the relative high cost per gigabyte but the advantages include speed and durability. Working on your MBP on the bus that hits a pothole and your drive may be damaged. Not going to happen with an SSD. The SSD is so fast that virtual RAM is nearly as fast as real RAM. My 2011 4GB MBA feels faster than the 2012 8GB Mac mini. The mini has a much faster processor and more memory in every way the older MBA feels faster and in any operation that requires a drive access it is significantly faster. Even my 2009 MBP with an SSD feels faster than the 2012 mini. For me these two factors make the price per gigabyte moot.
Has for the 'low quality', I was refering to the Processor! I mean, I undestand that they're very good... but I noticed that the MBA has a lowwer processor, compared to the MBP...
Sure, it is older tech but that doesn't mean lower quality. Quality to me means how well it is made. I can buy a much faster HP notebook than the MBP but that doesn't make the HP a higher quality computer. Fact is, the HP is a piece of garbage - and I speak from experience.

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Attn: ALL APPLE PORTABLE OWNERS -Macbook Pro, MacBook Air Apple portable slowdown / kernel high CPU solution

Attn: ALL APPLE PORTABLE OWNERS -MacBook Pro, MacBook Air, Mac mini slowdown kernel / high CPU use problem and solution.
YOU COULD FRY YOUR COMPUTER IF YOU DO NOT FIX THIS PROBLEM SO PLEASE READ THIS ENTIRE MESSAGE!
YOUR MAC WILL THANK YOU
Hey all.
Like many of you I've got a newer Apple portable which slows down to an unusable level for an unknown reason. In my case a 13" mid 2009 Intel MacBook Pro Core 2 duo laptop. After many failed attempts to figure out what this nutty problem is I have discovered the problem, the solution and I have solved this for my own MacBook Pro. Since this fix it has been working immediately and consistently -without issue
I am sharing this with you in hopes that you to can fix your Apple portable yourself or so you know what to tell the Apple techs so they can quickly fix your Mac from this wacky and unfortunate kernel CPU hogging problem.
User Software Symptoms :
Your Apple portable computer periodically for an unknown reason slows down making everything frustratingly slow. This happens even when running previous apps that were never a problem; things that your Mac should be able to handle easily but for some reason now it can't.
Slowdown most often happens during high CPU use such as gaming, video playback/editing, etc. or when running multiple apps (even non CPU intensive apps) at the same time.
Possible Hardware Symptoms:
Your computer is making more noise than it did previously.
Your computer occasionally makes more noise but then gets quieter.
Your computer is always extremely quiet (too quiet) even during high CPU apps -worst case scenario.
It feels hotter than it normally does. Test: After several minutes of the slowness/high kernel CPU touch the computer to feel if it's hotter than normal.
Looking at Activity Monitor (in the Utilities folder) shows the kernel_task is going bonkers eating up CPU but you have no idea why.
After trying many different things to solve this problem such as :
PR ram reset, SMC reset, fresh OS install of 10.5 and 10.6 on external hard-drives, calling and speaking to various Apple tech people who had no ideas/solutions, etc. I had no luck.
Btw, if you're having the symptoms I've decscribed above I would not run the Apple Hardware check (read below as to why). You could fry your Mac!
After much testing I found the problem :
It is my belief that "recent" Apple portable computers are using low quality internal fans which soon stop working!
Fail time period seems to be about 1.0 years to 2.5 years of use but this fail rate could vary depending on use.
First noticeable symptoms (depending on what you notice) could be computer slowdown or your fan is making more noise than it normally does. This is your fan's lubrication slowly eroding making your fan spin slower and less smooth resulting in the louder noise and slower rpm spin speed. The slower fan spin speed means less cooling is happening for your computer. The effect on your computer is that the CPU and other chips are heating up! Overheating to be more specific. When your computer's chips overheat they get wonky and screw things up. Most often this seems to have the effect of making the kernel hog CPU resulting in a frustratingly slow user experience! Heat kills computer chips and it is extremely bad for them. Extreme overheat or repeated overheating has been said to shorten the life of computer chips or in extreme cases even fry them completely!
The longer this goes on without being fixed your fan loses more lubrication and spins slower and slower cooling lesser and lesser resulting in your CPU heating up more and more possibly shortening the life of your Mac! Eventually your fan will stop completely and you could fry your chips! My fan stopped completely and my MBP was running very quietly, too quietly. Luckily I did not fry my chips because I was avoiding using high CPU apps because I knew something was wrong due to the massive slow down and wonkiness when I'd run them.
Side Note:I'm a bit concerned about all those Mac mini servers which may be using the same defective low quality fans which cannot be easily serviced by their owners as they are co-located in some server facility. One positive thing is those facilities are usually well airconditioned keeping temps low.
I suggest you do not run the Apple hardware test if you suspect your computer is overheating because the hardware test can seriously heat up your Mac! I tried running this test and my Mac got so hot I had to shut it down forcefully and I was concerned I damaged the chips. If you want to run the Apple hardware check make sure your CPU temperature is ok and that your fan works well before you run the test.
IF YOU DON'T FIX THIS PROBLEM YOU COULD FRY YOUR COMPUTER DUE TO HEAT DAMAGE!
DO NOT IGNORE THIS PROBLEM YOUR MACS LIFE MAY DEPEND ON IT!
First you need to properly diagnose this problem and see if your CPU is getting to hot and you need to see if your fans are spinning at high rpms giving proper cooling, or if they are spinning at low rpms when running high intensive apps as your CPU temp increases.
TEST IF YOUR FAN(s) IS WORKING CORRECTLY :
Unfortunately Apple does not include CPU temperature reading software nor fan rpm speed software that I am aware of.
However, There are two free ways that I know of to check your CPU tempurature and your fan speed :
One app shows fan speed, and CPU heat, etc.
One app shows fan speed, CPU heat and allows you to adjust your fan speed settings.
One app is a dashboard widget, the other is a system preference.
I suggest you download both of these to check your computer statistics.
http://www.eidac.de/?p=134
http://www.islayer.com/apps/istatpro/
http://fan-control.en.softonic.com/mac
I am not exactly sure what proper CPU temperatures are for the different Apple computers and this will change given different CPU loads.
My MBP doesn't seem to function properly with anything around 90 degrees or higher (celcius).
It seems when the fan is operating normally the CPU temp should not stay above 78 degrees even under heavy load, at least with the apps I'm running in the room temperature I'm in.
I can post back later with more specific temps under longer load, etc. but I wanted to get this post up for people to read as soon as possible so they don't fry their Macs.
If a bad fan is your problem :
THERE ARE ONLY TWO SOLUTIONS FOR THIS PROBLEM :
Fix or replace your fan so it cools the CPU and other chips properly.
I fixed my fan myself and I didn't need to buy a new one. Total cost was about $8.00 because I had to buy a #00 sized screwdriver and had it shipped to me. Price includes shipping.
On my mid 2009 model MacBook Pro fixing the fan was incredibly easy :
Before I started doing this I wasn't 100% this was the problem so I decided to try to fix my fan instead of ordering a new one and replacing it. As it turns out I didn't need a new fan, I only needed to clean the existing fan and relube it's axl so it could spin easier like when it was new. It also didn't make sense to buy a brand new fan from an Apple authorized parts reseller selling me the same low quality fan for $49.00 which would probably fail in 2 years again. Prices for new comparable fans from different manufactures range from about $15.00 USD + shipping to around $49.00 USD + shipping depending on where you order them from and what brand you get.
How to fix / replace your internal fan on a mid 2009 MacBook Pro :
Please note : I am not a hardware technician, nor expert. If you decide to fix your Mac yourself you do so at your own risk through no fault of my own. Prior to opening up your Mac you should google around and learn how to do it correctly and safely so you won't damage your Mac. For example, it is possible for you to damage your Mac by static electricity from your body. To avoid this I believe proper procedure is that you wear a 'ground strap' (around your wrist) which you clip to your Mac's metal body so your body will not excude a charge into your Mac. I believe the idea here is to keep your body's charge level and your Mac's similar. Since I do not have a ground strap and fixing/replacing the fan doesn't require touching any chips I did not wear a ground strap during my fan fix. What I did was periodically repeatedly touch the metal case of my MBP hoping that would be enough and it was. Avoid unecessary actions that can build up a static charge in you. Once I started the repair I did not walk around the room building up an electrical charge in my body. Walking on carpet can often build up a large charge in us so it is better to be avoided while working on your Mac. Certain clothing can build up static charges. Combing hair, etc. If you need to get up from your repair when you come back make sure you first touch the Mac's metal case and not anything inside.
Now that we're done with the scary paranoia, below you will find some instructions on how I fixed my MBP's internal fan
Before you begin:
Check out someone's video (not mine) on how to remove / replace the fan (but not take it apart and repair it):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AghE9newvbs
Check out someone's web page (not mine) on how to replace the fan in a mid 2009 MacBook Pro:
http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Installing-MacBook-Pro-13-Inch-Unibody-Mid-2009-Fan/ 1338/1
How to repair your mid 2009 MacBook Pro fan:
Make sure you are in a 'secure' environment. No pets, no kids running around, no drinks near the Mac, etc.
Make sure your computer is unplugged from it's power supply and turned off. NOT slept. Totally off / powered down.
1. Get a size #00 phillips screwdriver (Hobby store, Radioshack, Amazon).
2. Open up your MBP by unscrewing the bottom (yes flip it over so it's resting upsidedown). Note where each screw goes because some are different lengths. I placed each one around my MBP where they go, insuring I know their order (don't jumble them up). Note which direction your MBP is facing when it's upside down so if you spin it around while working on it you still know where the screws go.
2b. Some recommend removing the MBP's battery but I didn't do this step. You probably should, just to be safe. Follow the online instructions from the web page I listed about disconnecting the battery.
3. Unscrew the fan's 3 holding screws.
4. Unplug the fan's electrical connection (lift it straight up off the board). If you need to you can try to pry it up while you lift with a non metal/non electrical conductive object like a spudger if you have one or -perhaps a pen cap. Before you remove it, look closely at how it's attached so when you put it back on you won't wonder if you're doing it correctly. There's only one way it can go because it cannot fit 'the wrong way' but looking at it closely will make you feel more confident popping it back on when the time comes.
5. Remove the fan - it easily lifts out.
6. Take the fan apart by unscrewing it's one screw then unlatching the plastic clips which hold it together.
7. Seperate the fan blades from the housing. Lift the fan blades off of the fan housing by pulling it straight out away from the housing.
8. Clean off the dust that's gathered. A can of compressed air helps here (I didn't have one). I used a little brush from my electric shaver kit which worked well. Once you've removed all the dust from the fan and surrounding areas proceed to the next step.
9. Reapply new lubrication. You need less than 1 drop. Be sure it covers the entire fan blade axl as this is what needs to be well lubricated. Make sure there isn't excess oil that will fly around when the axl/fan spins at high rpms. I used the only oil I had which was olive oil (for cooking!) but I do not suggest this. At the time I was doing this I didn't know my fan was the problem so I wasn't even sure I was going to relube it. You should probably use something more appropriate perhaps like 3 in 1 oil. A good idea would be to call the manufatures of these little fans and ask them. Maybe a hobby store knows of good lubricants for these purposes?
DO NOT use things like WD 40 as it's not a long term lubricant or so I've read.
10. Once your fan is now clean and oiled (make sure there isn't too much oil) reassmble the fan.
Push the fan blades/axl back into the housing shaft. Give it a few spins with your finger.
Screw together the fan housing then reclip the clips.
11. Place the now reassembled fan back into your Mac and screw it in place (3 screws).
12. Reattach the fan's electrical wiring by gently pushing it into place. Make sure you've got the right end facing down before you push it in place.
13. Once your Mac's internals are clean and reassembled, place the rear cover back on your Mac and screw it in place.
14. Double check you didn't forget anything like screws, tools, etc.
15. Boot up your Mac and monitor the temperature and fan speed using those programs.
Compare the previous temps/fan speed to the current temp/fan speed.
Run a high CPU intensive app where your computer has been slowing down.
You should now have a happy Mac
If you have this problem and this solution fixed it for you please post in this thread letting me and everyone else know!
Hope that helps.

Thanks for your lengthy reminder dude, I have a similar Mac with yours. I suspect its a software fault because it happens after I upgraded to Lion, 10.7.2.

I have a tesco router and an external hard drive attached to it as a network drive (shared) for my macbook and MB-Air. Have no problems with my MB accessing it, but with MB-AIR it says - 'the version of the server you are trying to connect to is not supp

I have a tesco router and an external hard drive attached to it as a network drive (shared) for my macbook and MB-Air. Have no problems with my MB accessing it, but with MB-AIR it says - 'the version of the server you are trying to connect to is not supported. pls contact your system administrator to resolve the problem'. MB-Air uses maverick downloaded yesterday - upgrade from mountain lion. MB uses snow leopard still, as i am quite used to it and am thinking of upgrade if mavericks work fine on air. Also have parallel on snow leopard but it is no longer supported according to mac website - if i upgrade am i going to lose my parallel and will have to buy a new one!!!

Yes, the Old Master file has a folder for each year where I find all photos from that specific year. I am attaching a screen shot of the file.
In the meantime i have managed to download all photos (it did not download any video files though in mpg, avi, 3gp, m4v,mp4 and mov format) to a new iphoto library. Unfortunately the photos are quite mixed and often doubled up. I ma considering to purchase iphoto library which checks all duplicates in iphoto. this will save me a lot of time. What do you think?

What is best blue tooth presenter for macbook pro and air

What is best Blue Tooth presenter for MacBook Pro and Air?

You got lots of choices such as:
WD Studio
http://www.wdc.com/en/products/products.aspx?id=200
WD Studio 2
http://www.wdc.com/en/products/products.aspx?id=210
WD My Book
http://www.wdc.com/en/products/products.aspx?id=250
Lacie:
http://www.lacie.com/dk/products/range.htm?id=10007
http://www.lacie.com/dk/products/range.htm?id=10036
The are tons of external storage for mac out there but these are a few of them...
I personally like the WD Studio 2 and the LaCie 2big Network 2

TS3276 I have installed OS X Mavericks on macbook pro, macbook air & iMac but I am having terrible trouble with apple Mail. I need to take all accounts online frequently OR worse I have to quit mail and restart computer. Is anyone else having problems?

I have installed OS X Mavericks on macbook pro, macbook air & iMac but I am having terrible trouble with apple Mail. I need to take all accounts online frequently OR worse I have to quit mail and restart computer. Is anyone else having problems?

I just checked to see if the update to OS X Yosemite 10.10.1 solved any of the issues outlined in my previous post, and to my dismay, nothing has changed -- all of the previous problems persist.
My iMac (8) -- it's renamed itself eight times since the recent troubleshoot with the Apple tech rep -- shows up as a shared device in Finder on my MacBook Pro, but when I click on it, I cannot establish a connection using "Connect As". So I've attempted to connect using the menu "Go/Connect to Server...", using both (alternately) the iMac's name and IP address, to no avail. I get a message which reads: "There was a problem connecting to the server 'Peter's iMac (8)'. This server may not exist or it is unavailable at this time. Check the server name or IP address, check your network connection, and then try again."
Here's what I know:
The server -- Peter's iMac (8) does exist;
The server -- Peter's iMac (8) is available at this time;
The server name -- Peter's iMac (8) -- is correct, as specified in the system sharing preferences;
The server IP address is correct, as specified in the system sharing preferences;
The network connection is active when I attempt to connect.
I'm convinced the problems stem directly from the OS X Yosemite update. None of this was ever remotely an issue in the previous OS X's -- any of them. This is maddening! What can be done? Apple?? Anyone???

HT3255 Do the cases for the Macbook 13.3' air 2011 model fit the Macbook 13.3' air 2008 model?

I recently purchased a MacBook Air 13.3' late 2008 model. I am looking for a case. Do the cases for the 2011 still fit the 2008 model?

Generally speaking yes, but check the manufacturer's website to be sure.
I like these:
http://www.speckproducts.com/macbook-cases/macbook-air/pixelsleeve-for-macbook-a ir.html

The technical specifications of the internal webcam macbook pro and air?

Technical specifications of the internal webcam MacBook Pro and Air?
About Isight, and Facetime HD. from 2009 till now.
about:
focal length
Field of view in both directions
resolution in mega pixels
F/#
and some information about the entrance pupil position in relation to the screen glass.
Thank you so much community.

It will run. If you really want to game, off course you should but a 15 inch MBP and get you're Steam on, or buy a *couch* PC, or gaming console.
You could get all next-gen consoles for the price of a new MBP (well maybe all of them)
And eveyone of these options can play the games you want!

How to transfer playlist to from macbook to macbook air

can i transfer with icloud to my ipad and then icloud transfer to mackbook air??? I didn't by the songs in the playlist on the macbook, so they didn't transfer automatically and I have 1300 songs to transfer. It takes too long saving them to a bunch of cd's.

can i transfer with icloud to my ipad and then icloud transfer to mackbook air???
You want to go from your MacBook to iCloud, then to your iPad, back to iCloud, then to MacBook Air?
Just use -> Home Sharing and go straight from MacBook to Macbook Air.

Macbook Pro or Air for business & personal use

I am interested in the 13 inch. I have only used Windows PCs so far. I primarily use Microsoft Outlook and Office (Word, PowerPoint, Excel). I VPN into my corporate network and browse the Internet. I have Outlook open all the time along with an Office application and a couple of browsing sessions. I would also like Windows 8 installed, if possible, side by side. I rarely watch movies on my laptop and never play games.
I am confused (due to the deluge of information online) between Macbook Pro (not Retina) and Air. I am looking for recommendations alongwith a few answers. Is 4 GB sufficient for my multi-tasking needs? Is 128 GB enough (my disk usage is very very minimal, less than 25 MB) but I will be installing Microsoft Office and (optionally) Windows 8 (not mandatory)? I use a DVD drive very rarely - will an external drive be good enough if I go with the Air?
PS: Best Buy has a $200 discount on Air and a $100 discount on Pro which initiated my interest to buy a Macbook.

Why am I not surprised that you would say that. Please read the question, he asked for people's opinion on whether to get a MacBook Pro or Air.
https://discussions.apple.com/search.jspa?resultTypes=&dateRange=all&peopleEnabl ed=true&q=In+all+honesty+Windows+PC&containerType=&container=&containerName=&use rname=Shootist007&rankBy=relevance&numResults=15

Macbook Pro or air for a college engineering major

Hi. Im looking for a new laptop for college and was wondering which would be better for a mechanical engineering major: macbook pro or air? I will be running programs like solidworks and auto CAD and was wondering if i needed the extra processing power of the MBP.

You should also ask this in the MacBook Pro and MacBook Air forums. This is the forum for the 13” white and black plastic MacBooks that were discontinued in 2010. You should also post this question there to increase your chances of getting an answer.
https://discussions.apple.com/community/notebooks/macbook_pro
https://discussions.apple.com/community/notebooks/macbook_air

2015 Macbook or Macbook air?

16 years old, trying to pick a new notebook: Following requirements:
-Portable -Good screen and display -Price cannot exceed £1400 -Used mainly for word, powerpoint and excel but may need to do photo editing on occasion -Needs to last 3 years at least -Any other things you can think of a secondary school, soon to be college would need, mainly interested in maths and sciences as subjects.
Thanks

Honestly, I would still suggest the MacBook Air. It's way less expensive and the MacBook Air has a somewhat faster processor.
http://www.apple.com/mac/compare/results/?product1=macbook&product2=macbook-air- 11

Does anyone (like me) wish for macbook pro or air (13"or smaller) with dedicated graphic card?

Does anyone (like me) wish for macbook pro or air (13"or smaller) with dedicated graphic card?

This is not the place to ask such a question. This message board is only for "techincal issues" dealing with Macbook Pros.
You can whisper your wishes over on the Product Feedback wishing well website.

Airport, 10.5.8, and MacBook and MacBook Pros and slow internet

Disclaimer: Apple does not necessarily endorse any suggestions, solutions, or third-party software products that may be mentioned in the topic below. Apple encourages you to first seek a solution at Apple Support. The following links are provided as is, with no guarantee of the effectiveness or reliability of the information. Apple does not guarantee that these links will be maintained or functional at any given time. Use the information below at your own discretion.
If you have Macbook or MacBook Pro, and have upgraded to 10.5.8, you may experience slower than normal airport connection due to a bug found in the original 10.5.8 installer. Apple has released this update for MacBooks and MacBook Pros to address the issue:
http://support.apple.com/downloads/AirPortClient_Update_for_MacBook_and_MacBookPro
To amend what Apple has stated, the System Profiler will indicate you have one of these three MacBook/Pro CPUs:
o MacBook3,1
o MacBook4,1
o MacBookPro4,1
If you have certain third party routers the update above will not help. In which case, it is recommended that you contact the third party router manufacturer for a firmware update, and find out also if others have your exact same router, and have found a resolution with your issue.
Wireless issues can be caused by the following:
1. Interference on the same wireless channel.
2. Single channel connection from some third party routers not being strong enough to deal with interference. Apple Airport Express, Extreme, and Time capsule wireless routers all support dual channel connections, and also support networking with Windows as well as Mac.
3. Bad router tables in your router.
4. Power surges.
5. Interference from microwaves, or 2.4 Ghz non-cell wireless phones, whose signal is not tempered with channel hopping.
6. Distances less than 2 feet may have many overlapping wireless waves causing interference from the wireless router.
7. Distances greater than 150 feet from the wireless router.
8. Walls with numerous pipes, improper ground wiring, file cabinets with numerous papers between the computer and the router.
9. Run the hardware test that came with your computer, it may indicate an issue on the logicboard which could also impact your wireless card.
10. Improper security on your wireless connection. Setting up a WPA2 connection is preferred over WEP, which is preferred over no password.
11. 802.11n is a draft standard, meaning not all routers support it the same way.
12. Data corruption in the wireless cache settings, caused by improper system maintenance:
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=1772235
13. Migrating wireless settings with the Migration Assistant from a PowerPC to Intel Mac, or vice versa. It is better to follow these tips to avoid those problems:
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=435350&tstart=0
Not everyone will get this problem.
14. Apple Airport and Time Capsule firmware updates can be found on:
http://www.apple.com/downloads/macosx/apple/firmware_hardware/
This is the 1st version of this tip. It was submitted on August 14, 2009 by a brody.
Do you want to provide feedback on this User Contributed Tip or contribute your own? If you have achieved Level 2 status, visit the User Tips Library Contributions forum for more information.

"this tip ready for consideration"
Please put in:
http://discussions.apple.com/category.jspa?categoryID=140
http://discussions.apple.com/forum.jspa?forumID=1222
http://discussions.apple.com/category.jspa?categoryID=218
http://discussions.apple.com/category.jspa?categoryID=190
and any other forum or category you feel is appropriate.

MacBook Pro, MacBook Pro2,1 Running Very Slow Under Mavericks

I have been having extreme slowness issues with lots of SBOD spinning delays since upgrading my older MacBook Pro to Mavericks last month. It takes forever to "see" and run a back-up on my G Drive Time Machie drive, which has been historically very speedy and reliable. It should not take 5 hours to back up to the daily Time Machine drive, which at most took 20 minutes, maybe 30 if I installed new OS X software upgrades or updates. Sometimes when I run my third party software (much of it from MicroSoft Office, FileMaker, and the second to latest Adobe Master Collection Suite), I get more SBODs and some hiccuping until the software/document boots up. As recently as Mountain Lion, this was never an issue before, normal things that just ran seemlessly without thinking. Very occasionally even when shutting down, the finder loses track of what it is doing. When I do the Force Quit thing because third party software or the Finder Launcher has become "not resposive," even this can take a long time. I am wondering if this has to do with Mavericks bug/feature of rationing out unused memory, which my memory chips may not like on my bottom of the compatibility bracket machine spectrum. Is there perhaps a need for a more up to date firmware version for my model?
I have tried all available software testing options, and I found nothing that seemed amiss in the software end at all. I cannot access anything like Apple Hardware Test to assess and hardware problems either via my proprietary Mavericks-installed bootable OS X and Utilities partition or via the Apple Support Site to see if a dying hard drive is the culprit.
FYI About this Mac, which Apple's Support Site swears will work with Mavericks.
Model: MacBook Pro, MacBook Pro3,1 (late 2007 - early 2008) (17", 2.6 GHz)(Built as an online order, to my specifications)
Processor: Intel Core 2 Duo
Hard Drive: 250 GB (SATA Disk) (64.83 MB Available To Me, Remainder Taken Up By Apple OS X proprietary partition)
Graphics Card: NVIDIA GeForce 8600M GT 256 MB
Built-In Display: 17" (1920 x 1200)
Memory: 4 GB 667 MHrz DDR2 SDRAM (2 Banks of 2 MB each) (Full complement)
L2 Cache: 4 MB
Bus Speed: 800 MHz
Boot ROM Version: MBP31.0070.B07
Hardware UUID: 00000000-0000-1000-8000-001EC2127516
SMC Hardware Version: 1.18ƒ5
Current Version of Mavericks: OS X 10.9.2, Original Installed Version: Mavericks OS X 10.9.0 (13C64)
When I installed the new system software from the App Store, I did remember to disable my Norton Security Suite, so the download and installation should have been clean and unimpeded. There were no reported problems with the installation or the upgrade process. I chose the option at original installation to upgrade my laptop using the "migrate from my latest Time Machine Backup feature" to preserve the third party applications and settings.
My Firmware was all up to date, according to the Apple Support Page articles relating to my model. All permissions checked out OK as did all verification tests on the Mountain Lion Apple Partition (the one accessed via restarting with Command-R) before I started.
Since Apple has not been willing to release its system core software to the third- party makers of my Optimizing software (Disk Warrior, Alsoft), I have not been able to optimize the contents of my hard drive since the version that came out with Lion OS X 10.7; this may be a possible source of my problem. If my files are badly fragmented, it is difficult for the Finder to find and work with Apps and Documents, most especially with any great speed. I attempted to do likewise with TechTool Pro 7.x (MicroMat); likewise they could not optimize or check out my whole hard drive volume. A suggested solution of installing a Bootable drive into Apple's proprietary OS partition sounds like it would erase the Mavericks OS X/ Diagnostic Drive rather than be added to it. Could Apple work with Alsoft and MicroMat, so they can make current Boot-Up disks that would again allow me to optimize my entire HD volume? Otherwise, could Apple write its own optimization suite to help speed up my hard drive, if it is unwilling to share its operating code with third-party diagnostic software developers?
Then I thought of using Apple Hardware Test using the familiar Command-D from the Apple proprietary partiion (that was expected to still be included with the OS X Mavericks original upload from the App Store. I found it was not installed despite following the Apple Support Page directions and nothing including ethernet connected. When I tried to connect via the alternate method from the Apple Support Cloud using Option-D, my laptop found nothing at Apple's end. Does such diagnostic software still exist, or has this been scrapped. It would be an imptant tool to use to see if the source
I rerun Permissions and Verification in Command-R mode periodically since upgrading to Mavericks., and all permissions and disk integrity from this test have been corrected and updated as of today. Everything checks out as just fine in terms of software. I am out of ideas of what else to check from my end. Unless anyone in the Apple Support Community has any other good suggestions as to what might be wrong (other than an Apple software tweak) that I can do at my home office, I will have to take my poor laptop over to the nearest Apple Genius Bar and turn my older laptop over to a hardware technician at full cost (Applecare has long since run out).
All suggestions for fixes are welcomed.
— Sally Mayer

Launch the Console application in any of the following ways:
☞ Enter the first few letters of its name into a Spotlight search. Select it in the results (it should be at the top.)
☞ In the Finder, select Go ▹ Utilities from the menu bar, or press the key combination shift-command-U. The application is in the folder that opens.
☞ Open LaunchPad. Click Utilities, then Console in the icon grid.
Make sure the title of the Console window is All Messages. If it isn't, select All Messages from the SYSTEM LOG QUERIES menu on the left. If you don't see that menu, select
View ▹ Show Log List
from the menu bar.
Click the Clear Display icon in the toolbar. Then try the action that you're having trouble with again. Select any messages that appear in the Console window. Copy them to the Clipboard by pressing the key combination command-C. Paste into a reply to this message (command-V).
When posting a log extract, be selective. In most cases, a few dozen lines are more than enough.
Please do not indiscriminately dump thousands of lines from the log into this discussion.
Important: Some private information, such as your name, may appear in the log. Anonymize before posting.

MacBook and MacBook Pro competing for airwaves

Howdy,
I have an Airport Extreme set up as wireless router, i.e., the cable modem is plugged into the Extreme. Elsewhere in the house, an Airport Express is set up to extend the network. We have both a MacBook and a MacBook Pro, both running Leopard. When both laptops are accessing the web, it seems as though they were competing for the connection because the MacBook systematically gets slower connections, lags, and sometimes gets disconnected entirely.
Following some advice I found elsewhere in these forums, I downgraded the firmware of the Airport Extreme to 7.3.1. Here are its main settings:
- participate in a WDS network
- radio mode: 802.11n (b/g compatible)
- channel 11
- security: WPA/WPA2 Personal
- DHCP server distributes addresses between 10.0.1.2 and 10.0.1.200
Both the Extreme and the Express use the same channel. I tried changing it with no success.
Upgrading the firmware does not resolve the issue. The MacBook Pro is never disconnected; it always comes ahead of the MacBook. The two laptops are not dealt the same IP address, but somehow, there is a competition. When the MacBook Pro is turned off, say, and not accessing the web or anything else, the MacBook does not get disconnected.
Has anyone seen such a situation before? I might have misconfigured something.
Thank you in advance for any suggestions.
Dom

In a WDS setup, everyone uses the same channel (in your case 11).
If you can run an ethernet cable from the Airport Extreme to the Airport Express you can eliminate the WDS mode and instead configure your 2 base stations for WiFi Roaming, and you can put the Airport Express on a different channel (eg. Ch1).
The Airport Express gets its connection to the router via ethernet. The Express is configured into "Bridge Mode". The Express is given the exact same SSID as the Extreme. The Express is given the exact same password as the Extreme. The Express is set to a different channel (Channel 1 would be a good choice, unless your neighbors are using that, in which case you want to be at least 5 channels away from your Extreme and any neighboring base stations with strong signals).
This will give you a Roaming setup where as your move around the house, your MacBook and MacBook Pro will automatically switch between the strongest base station, but because everyone is using the same SSID and Password, you do not loose your connections.
And each base station is using its own channel.
If you do have neighbors with strong signals, you can use something like "AP Grapher", iStumbler, KisMac, MacStumbler, etc... to see your neighbors, the chanels they are using, and the relative WiFi signal strength so you can choose the channels with the least interference.
If you can not run an ethernet cable between the Extreme and the Express, but you really like the idea of a Roaming network, then you could look into PowerLine ethernet adaptors for getting an ethernet equivalent between the 2 base stations.

MacBook and MacBook Pro Battery Update

http://www.apple.com/support/macbook_macbookpro/batteryupdate/
Apple has recently discovered that some batteries used in its MacBook and MacBook Pro notebooks may have battery performance issues. Apple is offering a software update that is designed to improve battery performance.
The battery update is available immediately via Software Update or downloadable here.
Note: The factors causing the performance issues do not present a safety risk. You may continue to use your current battery.
This battery update should be run on all MacBook and MacBook Pro computers and extra batteries that were purchased between February 2006 and April 2007.
If, after you have installed the battery update, your battery has any of the symptoms listed below, please make a reservation to bring your computer with its battery to your local Apple Retail Store, or contact an Apple Authorized Service Provider (AASP), or call your local Apple Support Contact Center. If Apple or an AASP determines that your battery is eligible for replacement, you will receive a new battery, free of charge, even if your MacBook or MacBook Pro is out of warranty.
For MacBook and MacBook Pro systems with Intel Core Duo processors, this program extends repair coverage on the battery for up to two years from the date of purchase of the computer.
Identifying an affected battery
Affected batteries will have one or more of the following symptoms:
Battery is not recognized causing an “X” to appear in the battery icon in the Finder menu bar.
Battery will not charge when computer is plugged into AC power.
Battery exhibits low charge capacity/runtime when using a fully charged battery with a battery cycle count (as shown in System Profiler) of less than 300.
Battery pack is visibly deformed.
Note: If your MacBook or MacBook Pro battery does not have any of the symptoms noted above, your battery does not need to be replaced.
Next Steps
To participate in this worldwide program, your MacBook or MacBook Pro battery must show the symptoms noted above. If it does, please make a reservation to bring your computer and battery to your local Apple Retail Store, or contact an Apple Authorized Service Provider (AASP), or call your local Apple Support Contact Center. The U.S. support number is 1-800-275-2273. If you are located outside the U.S., please see Apple's international contact list for your local Apple Technical Support phone number. An Apple technical support representative or an Apple Authorized Service Provider (AASP) will determine if the battery is eligible for replacement, free of charge. Customers are responsible for transportation costs to eligible AASPs and retail stores.
If a replacement battery is sent to you via airmail, it is important that you return the older battery to Apple so that it can be properly recycled.
This program extends repair coverage on the battery for up to two years from the date of purchase of the computer for Intel Core Duo-based MacBook and MacBook Pro computers. Apple will continue to evaluate the battery update program and will provide further extensions as needed. Apple also reserves the right to modify the program if other solutions that address the battery performance issues become available.

For MacBook and MacBook Pro systems with Intel Core Duo processors, this program extends repair coverage on the battery for up to two years from the date of purchase of the computer.
Pretty nice change for those C2D's

Macbook vs Macbook Air

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