Manual exposure

This is a question that should be easy to answer but I cant find an answer anywhere. Using my 70D in manual mode when I adjust the shutter speed and f stop, the mark below the meter should move. It doesn't. No matter what I do it remains on -3. auto exposure/AEB is turned off. Am I missing somehing or what?

Oh trust us... we HAVE to ask those really basic questions. If we don't... there will, inevitably, be the day when someone misses something incredibly basic and we spend days trying to help them.
I do actually know someone who had a problem with a computer mouse that would not work... this person was not very technical and didn't know what makes a computer mouse work. It turns out they had placed the mouse on the table... upside-down. We spent hours and hours trying to help them (over the phone) because nobody thought to ask the question as to whether the mouse was actually sitting on the table right-side up (it would practically be an insult to ask someone such a question, right... turns out... not necessarily so!) We hope you understand.
As for that electrinic needle you see... it will ONLY start moving if you come within 3 "stops" of what the meter suggests as a proper exposure and you could easily be off by many many more stops than that.
As you mentioned you are in "...broad daylight. In Arizona." I'll ask you to dial in a very specific exposure.
Please set your ISO to ISO 100
Please dial your f-stop (Aperture) to f/16.
Please dial your shutter speed to 1/100th (although you *might* need to bump it up slightly).
This assumes you are outside during a sunny day pointing the camera at an object which is neither white nor black and you are pointing the camera to an object in full-sun... not hiding in shadows.
This is the "Sunny 16" exposure (it turns out the Sun provides an extremely consistent and reliable level of light at mid-day.)
Now when you look through your camera, the needle should be pointing either to the "0" indicator in the middle of the scale ... or a value reasonably close to it (within one stop). Also... as you adjust either the aperture or shutter speed while looking through the camera, you should see the needle move (assuming you "wake up" the metering system usually with a half-press of the shutter button.)
You probably aren't messing with the exposure lock feature... but "just in case"... avoid pressing the exposure lock button (the asterisk button on the back of the camera.) That button is designed to allow you to point the camera and meter the light on something... then "lock" the exposure and re-compose to point at something else WITHOUT allowing the camera to re-meter the exposure. (It clears this lock automatically either after you take a shot or after not touching anything for about 5 seconds or so. Tapping the AF point selection button on the camera will force it to release the lock immediately.)
Tim Campbell
5D II, 5D III, 60Da

Similar Messages

Canon 5D3 Feature Request / Wish -- Manual exposure auto shutter speed toggle

I've been using Canon gear the last six years & I don't know if this is currently possible in any camera body. If not, I believe it would prove highly helpful for working professionals.
When working in time-sensitive situations, I find myself frequently forced to use Av mode when I would prefer to remain in Manual exposure. Additionally, I find myself slowed down within Manual exposure mode when moving between inddor and outdoor light and/or other situations of dramatic ambient light fluctuation.
My wish would be for a menu assignment function for the "multi-function" button (next to the shutter release). Pressing the button while in M exposure mode would then set the shutter speed (like in Av mode--and another option could emulate Tv mode), and releasing the button would resume normal M exposure mode usage.
Personally, this is my biggest wish for the 5D3, and I would LOVE to see it implemented. (My second wish would be for the flash exposure lock to set the exposure of Flashes which are otherwise set to manual flash exposure, but that's another story).
Thanks,
Bert

Nope. That's a 1D X feature.

Does the Z1 have manual exposure adjustment when recording videos?

Looked all over the internet but can't find an answer to this question. When recording videos with the Z1, is it possible to manually increase the exposure by way of a slider (usually a range of -2 to +2)? I know there's an option to choose spot/centre weighted etc, but can this variable by set in advance with a slider? I film a lot of indoor videos that often end up completely underexposed when left in auto mode, therefore manual override is a must for me.
If not, does anyone know of any third party camera apps that add this functionality?
Solved!
Go to Solution.

On mine, running Android 4.4.2, before recording I can do it using the row of icons on the left. Make sure 'SCN' in the top left corner ('scene', in other words) is set to 'off'. This is like selecting 'manual' rather than one of the automatic, scene dependant, modes and it opens up the use of the next settings icon below it, the one that looks like 3 sliders, which would otherwise be 'greyed out'. So now that it's white you can tap it, go in, and manually select your 'white balance' setting (I use 'auto') and also the slider that you mentioned that goes from +2 to - 2. The slider in this case is labelled as 'EV'. Did this help?

Manual Exposure and White balance control?

What Webcams provide the ability to manually set the Exposure and White balance?
I know the nx pro ultra does, but I am having trouble connecting to it from my Java application.
Also are there any other wideangle webcams out there?

What Webcams provide the ability to manually set the Exposure and White balance?
I know the nx pro ultra does, but I am having trouble connecting to it from my Java application.
Also are there any other wideangle webcams out there?

5D MkIII: ISO Settings when on Manual Exposure Settings

Hi all
I would like to know your opinion about the following issue:
In the viewfinder you see the set ISO value. This value can be altered without having to take the camera off the eye when your individual settings are accordingly: Press SET button and turn the main dial.
This is a very valuable setting as it makes it easy to have control over the ISO settings as well as over the Aperture and Time.
Now unfortunately it is not possible to turn the ISO value back to "Automatic". For this you have to take the Camera off the eye and go into the menu to change that value. This should be changed.
What is your opinion about this?
Regards, Alex

Start Firefox in <u>[[Safe Mode]]</u> to check if one of the extensions is causing the problem (switch to the DEFAULT theme: Firefox (Tools) > Add-ons > Appearance/Themes).
*Don't make any changes on the Safe mode start window.
*https://support.mozilla.com/kb/Safe+Mode
See also:
*https://support.mozilla.com/kb/Troubleshooting+extensions+and+themes
*http://kb.mozillazine.org/Preferences_not_saved

How do I create an ACR custom lens profile if camera exposure can't be set to manual?

How do I create an ACR custom lens profile if camera exposure can't be set to manual?
I ask this question for the Nokia 808 PureView 41MP camera. It produces stunning image quality but exposure can only be controlled via EV +/- compensation. I need a lens profile to correct for vignetting to get even skies in panorama (which turn out stunningly otherwise). There is no profile for the Nokia 808 PureView I am aware of and I'd like to produce one.
Is the Adobe profile creator able to correct for varying exposure using EXIF or overlapping parts of the chart or background?
Or would the Adobe profile creator ignore EXIF if I use studio flash to enforce a constant lightning situation, even if shutter speed would vary (aperture is constant and ISO can be set constant, just not the shutter speed)?
Or did Adobe produce a profile internally they can share?
Thanks.

If you read the first post, this is the camera-app of a 41MP Nokia Pureview 808 camera-phone, so maybe someone could write a new camera app but the phone is Symbian OS which is dead, making that unlikely.
http://www.digitaltrends.com/mobile/the-skeptics-guide-to-nokias-808-pureview-five-reasons -41-megapixels-are-not-a-gimmick/
http://www.digitaltrends.com/mobile/the-nokia-lumia-820-and-lumia-920-too-little-too-late/
It would probably be easier for Adobe to rewrite the LPC to allow vignetting to be computed from a single shot of a blank wall without a target in the shot, than to have someone rewrite a camera app that allows manual exposure.
Another idea about how to get the phone to keep a constant exposure would be to experiment with putting darker and lighter objects in the field-of-view away from the target area to make the camera metering adjust things so it’s exposure is the same from one shot to the next. This would take some doing but should work, unless the LPC uses the part of the frame that doesn’t contain the checkboard target in its computations.
You’re basically varying the scene around the target so the camera takes the same exposure of the target each time.

Camera exposure correction defective for manual IS...

The photo camera exposure correction is defective for manual ISO setting in the N900 after updating the OS to PR1.2.
Link to the opened Bug (2010-05-28): https://bugs.maemo.org/show_bug.cgi?id=10384
This feature is one of the main tools to use the excelent camera of the N900 to make good pictures. It is very important that this feature is working correctly again.
The bug apprears in the following test situation:
- ISO-setting to ISO 100, 200 or 400 (not AutoISO).
- Manual exposure correction to +0,5, +1,0, +1,5, +2,0 (overexpose) and -0,5, -1,0, -1,5, -2,0 (underexpose).
In this cases the picture turns to very dark (almost black) while it should be brighter regaring to the aimed overexposure or only slightly darker regaring to the aimed underexposure.
The bug is independend from other settings (flash, recording presets (portrait, landscape, night,…) or white balance.
The bug does not appear in video mode sinde there is no possibility to change the ISO settings to another value.
There is even a Youtube video showing this bug published by user ahtiven: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Da1nd_zgk4U
The summer is nearly over now and I am quite angry that there is no solution since this bug is now known since at least more than 2 months!
We all cannot use this good camera in my N900 to shoot good photos!
Currently automatic exposure is the only way to make photos which is not working well in many exposure cases!
It seems that nothing is going on in this case - there is no feedback and no workaround!
Please at least offer a package in the repositories to set the camera back to the last firmware status where this bug didn't appear! And please respond here to tell what is planned to solve the problem!

Today this bug was closed and marked as "WONTFIX"
The users originally could buy a device which had certain important capabilities in the camera interface's usability. Then Nokia did a mayor mistake in disabling this capabilities in one of the firmware updates (PR 1.2) since they programmed this severe bug which is causing this error in the functionality available before. They missed to fix this in the firmware upgrade to PR 1.3 and now they are obvoisely trying to sweep it under the carpet!
It is definately our right as customers to demand that the camera application remains at least in the functionality it had when we bought the device!
So a bugfix of this bug is mandatory!
In my opinion someone is in charge of repairing this which he has slipped up in PR 1.2. He didn't had the heart to reply yet (neither in the maemo bug website https://bugs.maemo.org/show_bug.cgi?id=10384 nor in this discussion) and he is not doing his job's duty properly and in an professional way. Instead he is leaving the derangement, isn't it?
If the N900 would get a MeeGo upgrade from Nokia side it would be acceptable to solve this bug in MeeGo but since the Meamo is the official firmware dead end from Nokia side it is a scandal leave this bug unfixed !!!
The last thing we can do is to get more
user's feedback to nokia in this case:
==============================================
Please all readers support this posting with your comments
so we can get the responsibles to do this little but important
correction in the N900 camera application!
==============================================

EOS 5D mark 3 exposure metering problem

Today, I got a problem with my 5D mark 3. I was using my 5D mark 3 and speedlite on Camera. After finished shooting, I took off the flash from the camera and shot it in Program mode (P) without flash, and auto ISO setting. I found out that my camera's exposure meter is getting wrong. The result image is too much underexposed even the metre show the exposure value 0. I changed the setting to Aperture Priority mode (Av), I still have the same problem. Then I tried the Shutter Priority mode (Tv), I still have the same problem, so I tried to shoot with Manual mode and I found out that I need to shot in five stop over to see the image. In other settings, Shutter speed is getting to high (or) the aperture is too narrow for the low light condition even when the ISO is 100.
Then I tried to shoot it while LCD is on. The exposure meter reading is correct and get the right exposure. No problem at all. But when I shoot while LCD is off, I got the problem again. Too much under exposed. I tried to shoot with flash. The result is OK.
I think my camera is still thinking that it's attached with the flash, but I don't know how to solve the problem. I tried to reset all the setting but I still got the problem. I couldn't find any post for that problem on internet (may be I don't know how to find).
Can anyone help me how to solve that problem ?
Thanks & Regards
Zeal

Thanks for posting those images with EXIF data intact.
I recommend you contact Canon service to arrange for repair. Your "meter" believes you are receiving an extreme or possibly infinite amount of light and isn't just metering high (and underexposing by a stop or two.)
Here's why:
Your first shot is a "manual" exposure.
You used:
Manual
1/12 sec
f/4
ISO 10000
You would have to pick all of these settings.
Your second shot used Aperture priority. This means you get to pick the aperture, the camera will pick the shutter speed.
Aperture priority
1/8192 sec <- camera picked this value
f/4 <- you picked this value.
ISO 10000
As you can see, the camera pixed the fastest shutter speed possible. I suspect it would have chosen an even faster speed if only it were possible.... but 1/8192 is the limit for that camera.
Your third shot used shutter priority.
Shutter priority
1/21 sec <- you picked (you probably picked 1/20th but it got rounded by the EXIF data)
f/22 <- camera picked this... but note the high f-stop value. That's the smallest available aperture on the lens.
ISO 10000
As you can see here, the camera tried to constrain the light as much as possible by setting the smallest aperture opening (highest f-stop value) the lens can provide.
And that brings us to your final example... Program AE
Program
1/8192 sec <- camera picked this value
f/22 <- camera picked this value too
ISO 10000
As you can see... everytime you give the camera control over the setting... it does everything it can do to cut the light.
This is not merely an example of exposure compensation being a stop or two below standard... your camera thinks it needs to do everything it can to reduce the light. It's as though the meter believes it is getting an infinite amount of light.
This is not a camera setting we can "adjust" (we can control the meter within a few stops). This is an issue which would need professional repair.
Tim Campbell
5D II, 5D III, 60Da

Match Total Exposure Not Working For Me

I am taking several pictures (sometimes 100s) of the same object in a studio setting. I have all of the camera controls locked down in manual mode so things like ISO, aperture, and shutter speed are uniform across the entire shoot. I am also using flash for external lighting. My problem arises because the flash will produce different levels of light from shot to shot (despite being in manual mode) so the pictures have different lighting levels - some are brighter than others.
Is there any way to batch process these photos to have a uniform level of light? It seems as though the Match Total Exposure feature creates no change at all. Is that because the ISO, aperture etc. is the same in all the pictures? I need a way to correct for the fluctuating light output of the flash.

>Is that because the ISO, aperture etc. is the same in all the pictures
Yes. That is exactly what "Match exposures" does. It looks at ISO, aperture, and shutter and corrects to get to the same EV. If all your images were shot at the same settings, they can't be corrected this way. This is not the way to do consistent flash exposure BTW. You should be correcting either flash output or aperture based on distance (or ISO if you don't want to change aperture or flash intensity) as the intensity of light on your subject decreases inverse square law with distance. Most camera systems can do this automatically based on focus distance and some through the lens flash metering but it is possible to do this manually too. If your flash is off camera (e.g. shooting through an umbrella or bouncing on a ceiling or somesuch) you often don't need to do this and you can stay at one exposure since the distance of the flash to your subject generally doesn't change and so amount of light on the subject doesn't vary.
> I need a way to correct for the fluctuating light output of the flash.
Can't be done easily in Lightroom. The only way is manually correcting visually. It is almost impossible to automate something like this although I guess you could generate some scripts in Photoshop that looks for common tones (like flesh tones) and equalize them. Not at all trivial though and very much a highly advanced thing to try. Your best bet is manual exposure compensation. Should be very quick. Just arrow through and correct either in quick develop with a few clicks or in Develop.

T3i Locking Exposure in video mode?

When some one moves an arm on camera I can see the exposure changing on the lcd monitor. Using older lenses I can see exposure changing/flickering as I zoom in or out.
How do you lock exposure in video mode? Even my several year old HV20 had a not-in-the-manual way of locking exposure.
Any video people here? I know how you lock exposure for still photography. I'd think the answer to this would be out there and not something that even stumped my local camera store.

http://www.dvinfo.net/forum/canon-eos-crop-sensor-hd/498717-manual-exposure-settings-video-mode.html
John Hoffman
Conway, NH
1D Mark IV, Rebel T5i, Pixma PRO-100, MX472

Canon VIXIA HF R50 manual focus

I just bought a Canon VIXIA HF R50 and have 1 more week to evaluate if I want to return it for refund. The salesperson said it has manual focus and manual exposure. I've been reading the manual, but my camera doesn't show the (+-) icon or the M when I touch the movie camera icon. Am I missing something?

Hello Magnolia,
The VIXIA HF R50 is definitely capable of manual focusing. It only works in advanced shooting modes though, such as [SCN] [P] (AVCHD / MP4).
So, put the camcorder in one of those two modes and then open the manual focus screen. Touch [MF] and then touch and hold [landscape and portrait] to adjust. You then touch [X] to lock the focus at the selected distance.
Did this answer your question? Please click the Accept as Solution button so that others may find the answer as well.

Share Exposure drops when changing "f-stops" on consumer Camcorders

Hello,
I have a couple of camcorders I use to record school productions (a sony hc-90 and a sony sr-1) that allow for manual exposure changes while shooting.
The problem is:
When you adjust the exposure up/down it is not a smooth change, the video exposure visibly JUMPS up/down in a very distracting way.
Is there a filter to smooth out these jumps in FCP?
Any other ideas would be welcome.
I cannot afford a smooth manual exposure lens like on a high end canon and cannot stop the "Lights Crew/kids" from changing the lighting levels.
Thank you
-Michael

The problem is:
When you adjust the exposure up/down it is not a smooth change, the video exposure visibly JUMPS up/down in a very distracting way.
Is there a filter to smooth out these jumps in FCP? <
If you can't control the shooting situation and do not know how to use exposure compensation tools in FCP, you must accept what you get.
You can use any of several image control or color correction filters in FCP to tweak exposure inconsistencies, most can be keyframed.
Post processing bad video a lot more trouble than you might be prepared to accept. In the end, it will be far easier to train your crew how to shoot properly exposed video. You will be doing them a huge favor, too. They will not be able to depend on automatics exposure systems in the real world.
Most consumer cameras have a menu setting that disables the auto-iris.
bogiesan

Fixing Exposure Problem

I've noticed in one of my shots I briefly decreased and then increased the manual exposure on my camera (not sure why I did this). The result is pretty noticeable and I'm wondering if there is any way this can be fixed in Color. I've tried fixing it in FCP with no luck.

I fix at least one of these in practically every video project I've worked on as a colorist, coming up to 14 years now. But I have only ever seen two instances in film-originated projects. One of them was because the focus puller grabbed the T-ring instead of the focus ring. He was threatened with death and never did it again, to my knowledge, and he is still alive and working! The second one was the operator himself who did the same thing and it only showed up in dailies before Action, but he was still reprimanded by the DP. You're allowed one, I guess...
At any rate, in COLOR, grab a good still, split it so you get a good grey-scale range, so that you can see the whole black-to-white range and count on keyframing every frame. Use the frame-step to jog back and forth a lot. It will not be a simple gain offset. Every parameter will change, and non-linearly. You will likely do it a couple of times. And then no one will notice that you pulled a rabbit out of "somewhere".
jPo

Auto Exposure too bright?

It seems that auto-exposure often makes my images way too bright, cranking up the exposure to max or near max. Is anyone else having this problem?

HI:
Being a professional photographer, I almost consistently avoid using the autoexposure option in Aperture. I do my best to make sure that the exposure is "dead-on." However, there are times when my exposure is off by 1/3 of a stop to 1/2 of a stop. In most cases, such a variation in exposure is not noticeable; it's when the highlights are blown-out by just that amount when it is most apparent. I, then, use the manual exposure slider to bring back the highlights.
Nonetheless, I have played with the autoexposure feature in Aperture the odd time; and I have noticed a tendency of it to "over expose" images. It's important to remember that such a tool isn't very "finess" it's broad-spectrum and general purpose. It's not going to get it right all the time.
Remember, "auto" settings in PhotoShop don't always work the way you want either.

Why is exposure compensation limited to +-4EV

I ran a quick test to determine whether exposure compensation worked better in the D7000 or in Lightroom. I started by taking one picture at ISO 1600 correctly exposed. I then reduced the ISO by half for the next 4 pictures ending with 100. I then loaded the pictures into LR 3.3 and adjusted the exposures of the pictures by 1, 2, 3 and 4 EV so they all ended up the same. If Lightroom was more efficient at exposure compensation the ISO 100 picture should be best. If the in-camera compensation is best the ISO 1600 should be best.
The first surprise was that the LR exposure compensation is limited to +-4EV.
The other surprise was that the ISO 100, 200, 400 and 800 pictures were indistiguishable. The ISO 1600 picture was the only one that looked different with both exposure and color being slightly off.
My tentative conclusion is that between ISO 100 and 800 LR and the in-camera are pretty much identical. At ISO 1600 (+4EV) LR is better, but that's a terribly narrow margin. You need 1-2 EV headroom to make adjustments.
I had hoped LR would have given mt a wider margin and, as it appears it would, superior compensation to the one implemented in the camera.
Yes, Yes, Yes, I know that it's probaably ACR doing it, but still!
Anker

When shooting in Camera RAW format you are retaining the full Analog to Digital (A/D) resolution, which today is 14 bits, or even 16 bits color depth (48 bits). When shooting JPEG the camera file output is limited to 8 bit color depth (24 bits). So even for 14 bit camera A/D converters we have:
This is not correct. jpeg files are gamma corrected while raw is a linear capture. Theoretically, a 8-bit jpeg in sRGB space can contain as much dynamic range as a raw file of any bit depth because of the tone curve. It breaks up quicker when you edit jpegs because you will start seeing posterization earlier because of the lower bit precision but the dynamic range is there to start with.
Jao xDL I appreciate the additional information and links you have provided, but it is probably more information (and some misinformation) than most of us can digest in one reading. Yes sRGB tone curve helps to "compress" a wider dynamic range" signal into the 24 bit JPEG space, but it still only contains 24 bits of information! My point is that when opening a Camera RAW file in LR we can use the camera's full A/D dynamic range for recovery of signal "beyond 24 bit JPEG." Today that is typically 14 bits or even 16 bits per color (42-48 bits), with even the cheapest cameras using 12 bit A/D. If JPEG has the same ability, then why are we capturing and using "larger" RAW files?
You also say:
At a fixed exposure, you actually will want to raise the ISO as far as you can to make sure you don't posterize shadow detail in the very deep shadows because of limited bit precision left over and to minimize the read noise contribution.
People use their expensive (and inexpensive) camera gear to shoot pictures, NOT run laboratory experiments! I don't want to change my ISO setting to get the best shadow details or use Auto ISO, except for very specific shooting situations. You are parsing technical semantics, gone way beyond the original question, and are now incorrectly restating what I already said:
The bottom line is that “best practice” is to expose for the maximum highlight value, even clipping highlights when you want to retain maximum noise-free shadow detail.
This is best left to use of 'Exposure Compensation' or 'Manual Exposure' settings, and review of image histogram on your camera. Just be aware that most camera histograms are a processed 24-bit sRGB JPEG representation. Your RAW file output will actually have significantly more "highlight" range than indicated! Do a Google search on ‘Rawnalyze.’ The author has sadly passed on, but you may be able to find a posted copy of the program.
The poster asked, "Why is LR Exposure limited to only ±4 EV." You can use the Tone Curve to increase the range as suggested by Lee Jay, but then you lose the other features it provides. In light of all the technical information everyone has presented, raising the Exposure range would be very useful.

Manual exposure

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