Max Resolution or DPI of still images

Hi,
This is an offshoot of a problem I thought I was having with Encore CS5 and transcoding, but it is also part of the solution.
I was creating about a 30 min project on Premier CS5 with AVCHD and still images imported with a couple of mp3 music tracks. Win 7, GTX 295, 6MB Ram.
I can do whatever I wanted in premier in terms of any jpeg could be imported, scaled, add motion, zoom, effects, whatever..
When it was time to put it on a blu-ray, it would get send to Encore via the dynamic link and would always fail at seemingly random places during transcode and of course, ultimately crash, or come up with an "object not found" and ultimately never burn.
I tried all the suggestions, taking spaces out of file names, burning to a blu-ray folder, and everthing else I could find in the forums.
I also spent 2.5 hours with Adobe logged into my computer and they could not figure out why:
ENCORE CS4 would transcode and burn the exact same project CS5 would choke on and fail.
I had ignored the suggestion in the forum that Premier can't handle large image files.. After all, they seemed to load and work, I couldn't imagine that transcoding would fail on a still image at 4000X3000 and 300dpi, but wouldn't you know it, I resized all of my images to lower res, and bingo, CS5 churned and burned the blu-ray. I did notice after trying, that if it won't render in the work area of PPro CS5, that it would also fail in the transcoding in Encore CS5, but not CS4. If it didn't like a particular image, it would just freeze the render process and lock PPro CS5 right up.. After several image resizes and lots of reboots, it finally all rendered, and then it was fine in Encore CS5 after that.
So this brings me to my point, and I would love an official answer or guideline from Adobe..
What is the max resolution of still images that can be used in PPro CS5 and consequentally be handled in Encore CS5? What about dpi?
Am I correct to assume that 300dpi is useless in HD? Meaning, even in true HD on a tv screen, isn't it still 72dpi? I couldn't figure out if it was the DPI or the dimensions of the image it couldn't deal with. It seemed as long as I was around 2500X1500 and under 200 DPI I was ok.. but more than that was definately a show stopper. However, I would also think a 300dpi picture would be sharper and crisper, so this stinks that premier can't seem to deal with a 8-10 megapixel jpeg or image..
I really can't believe it, I really thought Adobe would be ready for todays images from cameras, I mean I think nearly every camera you can put your hands on now shoots 8-10 megapixels which would put you right there in 4000X3000 and 300 dpi, how could Premier Pro CS5 and Encore choke on those? And more amazingly why does Encore CS4 not choke?
D.J.

Ann,
Thank you for the link to that article, and it sort of explains the limits, but it doesn't explain why an image off of a camera that was a jpg at 4000X3000 and 300dpi , which is about 10 megapixels and about 5MB in file size choked the transcode process, as it doesn't seem to be anywhere near the limits. As soon as I changed the images to something more like 2500X1200 and 180 dpi or less, everything was fine.
Could it have anything to do with cumulation? For example, I had about 20 of these images set up in a slide show sort of way, and added some motion to them in the effects.. Do you think that matters?
Also, the DPI in relation to video, as I said, it sure does seem that a larger image at 300 dpi offers quite a bit more clarity in the final product than something at a lower DPI..Especially in the case where I want to zoom in on the image or use some motion.. Maybe I'm nuts and a 72dpi 1920X1080 image is all I will ever need, but then in that case, it doesn't leave much room to be able to zoom in or out and move it around.. And if you do zoom in a lower quality image, then the quality will really be seen when it becomes part of the video.. Which is why I wanted to start with higher res stuff in the first place..
D.J.

Similar Messages

How to Work With Still Images in Premiere Elements 10

I am struggling with the still images in my Titles for my video project, and would really appreciate some help. I have done a lot of googling on this and searched this forum, but can't seem to find the answer I need, maybe not searching the right questions or just "not getting it". Not even PE Adobe tips or Adobe TV cover this, although it seems important to know. I am not clear how PE10 will handle the resolution of an imported still image or graphic art from Photoshop. Perhaps this topic will also help others as well.
I am working on a video project for my job, editing an old training video. Created new Title graphics in Photoshop, inserted the Title images and integrated with video clips, then exported the video segments as MPEG files. I burned the whole video to DVD.
When the final DVD plays on a computer or TV screen, the photo images in the titles are fuzzy even though they were clear 300 dpi images. (I know dpi doesn't matter in video). The title text is also a bit fuzzy and the title text that has animation applied to it is even more fuzzy. Yet the old MPEG video clips look fine - it's just my title graphics and text that look bad (embarrasing).
So I need to know how to improve the quality of the still images/graphics for a video??
Project settings:
- Hard Disk, Standard 48kHz
- Editing Mode: DV NTSC
- Frame: 720 x 480 (0.9091)
- Frame rate: 29.97fps
- with "Optimize Stills" box checked
Using these settings because I am working with MPEG files from an old training video CD.
File Export: MPEG, NTSC DVD Standard
I export the video clips as MPEGS because they will be burned to a CD or DVD for distribution to our staff offices.
Work Details:
In Photoshop, I created still image graphics for each Title sized at 720 x480 with high resolution photos and company logo (300 dpi), and save them as a bitmap to import into PE10. In the Timeline, I insert the still image in "Video 1" track, then in Video 2 track create a Title over it for text (some animated, some still). Sometimes I stack 2 or three titles with text in separate video tracks over one still title image. Yes, there is a red line across the top in the Timeline because I didn't render the still images.
Questions:
• What is the best resolution for images imported into PE10 from Photoshop?
• Should I be creating title graphics/images at 720 x 480 or a larger ratio like 1920 x 1080 so it will display better when seen on a computer or TV?
• Do I need to render each title image in the timeline so that it will eventually display better in the MPEG?
• Is it better to create a title and then insert the still image into the title so they are integrated, rather than layered on separate video tracks?
I would greatly appreciate any assistance.

When the final DVD plays on a computer or TV screen, the photo images in the titles are fuzzy even though they were clear 300 dpi images. (I know dpi doesn't matter in video). The title text is also a bit fuzzy and the title text that has animation applied to it is even more fuzzy. Yet the old MPEG video clips look fine - it's just my title graphics and text that look bad (embarrasing).
Remember that DVD-Video was designed for CRT TV sets, and was a major step up from VHS tape. However, when viewed on an HD computer monitor, or HD TV *, it is still ONLY 720 x 480, with is about 1/4 of the resolution as 1920 x 1080, which is about what we are used to seeing on those display devices. That is but only 25% of the quality. It can never look as good as HD material.
Good luck, and if I missed something, please point that out to me.
Hunt
* With the advent of BD players, and up-rezzing DVD players, things HAVE improved, when viewing a DVD-Video on an HD TV. The newer players have up-rezzing chips, that do a very good job of "improving" the viewed material's quality. However, even with those amazing chips, DVD-Video will NEVER be as good as a full-HD source. Also, computers do not have those up-rezzing chips, so when one views a DVD-Video on a high-rez computer monitor, it will still look pretty bad. There ARE a couple of new DVD software players, that improve the quality of DVD-Video played on a high-rez computer monitor, and a few look fairly promising. I speculate that we will see some more development in the DVD-Video area, especially as BD is not proving to be the big seller, that many promised. Even 3D is not helping BD realize its promise.

How to view resolution (ppi/dpi) and bit depth of an image

Hello,
how can I check the native resolution (ppi/dpi) and bit depth of my image files (jpeg, dng and pef)?
If it is not possible in lighroom, is there a free app for Mac that makes this possible?
Thank you in advance!

I have used several different cameras, which probably have different native bit depths. I assume that Lr converts all RAW files to 16 bits, but the original/native bit depth still affects the quality, right? Therefore, it would be nice to be able to check the native bit depth of an image and e.g. compare it to an image with a different native bit depth.....
I know a little bit of detective work would solve the issue, but it
would be more convenient to be able to view native bit depth in
Lightroom, especially when dealing with multiple cameras, some of which
might have the option to use different bit depths, which would make the
matter significantly harder.
This
issue is certainly not critical and doesn't fit into my actual
workflow. As I stated in a previous post, I am simply curious and wan't
to learn, and I believe that being able to compare images with different
bit depths conveniently would be beneficial to my learning process.
Anyway,
I was simply checking if somebody happened to know a way to view bit
depth in Lr4, but I take it that it is not possible, and I can certainly
live with that.
Check the specifications of your camera to know at what bit depth it writes Raw files. If you have a camera in which the Raw bit depth can be changed the setting will probably be recorded in a section of the metadata called the Maker Notes (I don't believe the EXIF standard includes a field for this information). At any rate, LR displays only a small percentage of the EXIF data (only the most relevant fields) and none of the Maker Notes. To see a fuller elucidation of the metadata you will need a comprehensive EXIF reader like ExifTool.
However, the choices nowadays are usually 12 bit or 14 bit. I can assure you that you cannot visually see any difference between them, because both depths provide a multiplicity of possible tonal levels that is far beyond the limits of human vision - 4,096 levels for 12 bit and 16,384 for 14 bit. Even an 8 bit image with its (seemingly) paltry 256 possible levels is beyond the roughly 200 levels the eye can perceive. And as has been said, LR's internal calculations are done to 16 bit precision no matter what the input depth (although your monitor is probably not displaying the previews at more than 8 bit depth) and at export the RGB image can be written to a tiff or psd in 16 bit notation. The greater depth of 14 bit Raws can possibly (although not necessarily) act as a vehicle for greater DR which might be discerned as less noise in the darkest shadows, but this is not guaranteed and applies to only a few cameras.

I need to capture a 300 dpi still image from my film to send to a magazine, how can I do that? Thank you.

I am trying to capture the still image and it comes as 72 dpi. I need the 300 dpi for a magazine.
Some places suggests that I transfer it to 300 dpi using photoshop. But the best is to go from the original.
Can someone help me with this?
I have shoot my video using a canon 5d
Thank you,
Betty

Video does not have dpi. Pixel size is fixed. dpi is a print function. The only way to create 300dpi is to use scaling in Photosop or to use a dedicated application like PhotoZoom Pro, which is what I have always used for my books to create high resolution print images of screen shots.

Still image crop and resolution

Dear All,
I'm creating an H264 1280 x 720 video for Google Maps that incorporates still images and 1280x720 HD video. I've always used 96 dpi for image resolution in the past when I cropped images for standard 720 x 640 video and they looked good. If I crop my still images in Photoshop to 1260 x 720 at 96 dpi, jpeg, will that give me a good still image in the final product? I know that the dpi really doesn't matter unless we're talking about print, but I want to start with a good image resolution. There are many things to learn about all of the new formats! Thanks.
Small Town Gal

Hi SMG,
As Ann said, forget DPI for video, has absolutely no bearing on things. For a 1280x720 video, optimum still size is 1280x720 pixels. If you want to do any zooming/panning to animate the still, then of course a higher resolution will be beneficial.
Thanks
Jeff Pulera
Safe Harbor Computers

Still images resolution

Hi everybody!
I want to make a dvd of pictures (still images). I am cropping these from an iMovie project. I have two options: JPEG and PICT. Which is best? What is the difference in resolution? I don't think I will print them on photo-paper.
Best
Eric

Hi Lennart,
I have a movie and I want to create stills from it to eventually create a diaporama (with iMovie because it allows you to put more pictures in it).
I have never had problems with JPEGs generated by iMovie (yet) but found out there was the other option (PICT). The manual says to use PICT and I wanted to know what the advantage was (specially now that you are telling me that the resolution will be lower).
Best
Eric

How can you save keynote slides as high resolution (300 dpi) images?

Apparently there is a way to save powerpoint slides as 300 dpi images, with some finagling, but not the mac version. Does anyone know how to do this in keynote? Or is there a relativley easy way to do it with free/cheap software? I can increase the dpi in photoshop, but it doesn't produce crisp images for obvious reasons.

how can you save keynote slides as high resolution (300 dpi)
to save individual images from each slide in Keynote;     file > export > images > TIFF (for optimum quality)
You are using the wrong terminology to describe creating an image file
- dpi ( meaning dots per inch ) is the measurement used in printing to create the number of print dots per inch that will be deposited on to physical media like paper or film   This is done in the printer settings box of the print driver and is dependant on how the individual printer can print..
ppi ( meaning pixels per inch ) is the measurement you need to use when creating the number of pixels in a digital image file. You establish image resolution in Keynote using the inspector;
Keynote > inspector > document > slide size
I can increase the dpi in photoshop, but it doesn't produce crisp images for obvious reasons.
You can resample images in editing applications such as Photoshop or Painter but what you are doing is adding non image information to the image to increase pixel count, this is called noise. As you state this is not the procedure to use in your situation.

What size still images work best for iMovie to create a book trailer?

I'm trying to create a book trailer using still images and text in iMovie. I purchased some 280px images from gettyimage and find they are too small. When viewed on a full screen the images are degraded. What size still image works best to make a book trailer in iMovie that will be posted on You Tube. Thanks in advance. I am an iMovie newbie.

iM supports a max. export resolution of 1920x1080 pixel ..
if you need to add Ken Burns effects, res should be, of course, higher..
no such thing as 'dpi' with video, only absolute pixels count ..
due to the many conversion processes happening on import, processing and export, care for as less compression as possible for the imported files ..
this YT-demo is done in iM09 with some pics from my Lib, native res of originals is ~6Mpix/~3MB size/jpegs ..
ahh, and Welcome betinski61 to the  iM boards ...

Using still image in FCP and Motion

I'm using still images in Motion (and FCP) and exporting them to Quicktime movie files. What's the best size and resolution for the images and are JPGs or TIF best? I'm exporting for 720 X 480, and currently my JPGs are 4 x 6 at 300 dpi with a pixel width and height of 1312 x 2000. I'm adding some behaviors to the images in Motion (motion paths and shrink/grow).
My FCP project is setup as a DV NTSC 48kHz, 720 x 480, editing timebase=59.94, timecode Rate=same as editing timebase, compressor-DV/DVPRO-NTSC, quality 100%.
When I export to Quicktime the movies are very low quality--lots of noise and moire pattern etc.
How do I get the best qualtiy using still images? Is it my FPS setting, image pixel size, compressor setting? Also, do the movies need to be deinterlaced?
The preview in the FCP browser and canvas looks a little better but I do notice noise (moire patterns) along the sharp edges of the still images.
I've seen QT movies of these very same images (done by someone else who is no longer around) and they are much better quality.
Does anyone have an appropriate workflow for this type of project? The final movies are to be shown on a flatscreen monitor from a local computer, so the file sizes can be relatively large (300mb).
I can post an example of he movie files if that might help.
Thanks.
Pedro

David, your a genius!!! You posted your reply on my birthday, and I missed it until today!
Fotomagico is devastatingly easy to use and absolutely makes me want to cry at the amount of time I wasted creating photo slideshows in FCP!
I opened Fotomagico up and created a slideshow, one that I had already created in FCP and had take me FIVE HOURS to create... in TEN MINUTES!!!!!!!!! Aaaaaaaaah.
I couldn't believe it. I thought there had to be a catch or something. This was too easy the quality can't be there... but it was. It's amazing and I can't thank you enough for all the future hours you have saved for me.
Al Romero

Still image with motion has flicker pulsating problem

I use FCP 5.0.4
I have read the many threads about this subject and am still not able to succeed in getting rid of the flicker/pulsating in a still image with motion.
I would say about 25% of the stills with motion have the jitters; all the rest look great.
The first thing I tried was
Effects:Video Filters:Video:Field Shift:none
as well as
Effects:Video Filters:Video:Flicker Filter min, med, and max.
Maybe 5% were corrected with this, but the other 20% still had the jitters even after using a combination of the above or by themselves.
I just burned a test DVD using a variety of the persistently jittery stills from my current project and although the jitters change a bit, they were still there so all of these failed:
1. Effects:Video Filters:Video:De-interlace Upper (odd)
2. Effects:Video Filters:Video:De-interlace Flicker Filter minimal
3. Effects:Video Filters:Video:De-interlace Flicker Filter max
4. Effects:Video Filters:Color Correction:Broadcast Safe conservative 115
5. Effects:Video Filters:Video:Flicker Filter max
6. All the tricks together which means
Effects:Video Filters:Video:De-interlace set at Upper (odd)
Effects:Video Filters:Video:Flicker Filter max
Effects:Video Filters:Video:Shift Fields: none
Effects:Video Filters:Color Correction:Broadcast Safe conservative 115
I know this issue has been kicked around a lot and i know some folks are not happy that it has to be kicked around at all. But I am doing something wrong because my DVDs look very un-PRO. Would anyone like to talk me through this nightmare preferably with as many details as possible since I am obviously missing something critical.
Thanks in advance.

There is no 'secret formula'. It just takes thinking through the issues.
1. Set the image size for each image that makes sense within the context of your project. Going significantly larger than the displayed area of that image (including movement) is just asking FCP to do additional work to resize the image. FCP is less sophisticated at resizing images than Photoshop. Use Photoshop and your planning of the movie to get the images to the appropriate size.
2. Wasted effort and totally irrelevant- you could set it to 7200 dpi if it makes you feel better.
3. Good idea - be sure to knock down areas of pure or very bright white. These are the elements that will give you the most trouble.
4. Don't do this unless you want to throw away HALF the picture information. Deinterlace deletes half the picture and then photoshop recreates it through interpolation of the remaining half of the picture. Why do this?
5. Make your determination based on what works. If you have properly exposed and sized the material, the need to blur is greatly reduced. ONLY do it on the images that need it. Why degrade every image if you do not need to do so?
6. See number 5
7. Lay out your time line early, view the work on an external broadcast monitor and only mess about with the images that require it.
In the psycho business they have term for much of the referenced post - it's called superstitious behavior. Basically it comes down to "It worked before so we recommend it to everyone without regard to their situation" ... here's another example:
Many years ago in my architecture practice, we had one of the early 512k macs (upgraded from the 128k!) I needed to show one of the interns how to create a project budget spread sheet in Excel. Inadvertently I clicked on Word, said "oops", closed it and opened Excel and we went to work.
A week later I was walking by the computer and overheard the same intern explaining how to work with Excel to another architect. "First you open Word, close it, THEN you open Excel", she explained. When asked by her 'trainee', why do you have to open Word first, wouldn't it just be easier to simply open Excel? Her answer was just perfect, "Well, it works every time, what's wrong with that?" so it goes ...
good luck with your project.
∏

Still Images without flicker

I am looking for the best settings to run a 3d Max walkthrough (with still images) into Premiere CS4 and then export to F4V WITHOUT such a quality loss. I have succesfully exported to .mov and the clip looks great. Try exporting to wmv or F4V or FLV and the file size is small and the quality sucks. The .mov file is 119 mb, too large for client to download. The wmv or flv or f4v look too terrible to send on. I have tried using de-interlacing and flicker control and have had no positive results.
Please help.
Dave

Welcome to the forums.
Export at full resolution using a lossless codec and then use the free Windows Media Encoder to get the best possible WMV encoding. It has far more options than what is available in PPro.
Cheers
Eddie

Setting higher MAX resolution in CS6: HOW?

Hi everyone,
I work in an industry where soon our Photoshop TIF files will require super high resolution for our pixel mapping. Though our files are not that big size wise (2x2 inches max), they tend to be between 10,160 and 50,000 DPI, depending on the print format we need to achieve. My question is:
On the current version of CS6, I am not able to import older TIF files with resolutions above 10,000 DPI; they automatically reset to the highest default, 9999.999 DPI. I also am unable to create new files above 9999 DPI. The program says I need to pick an amount between 1 and 9999.999 DPI. We have older machines and versions of CS4/5 that allow us any resolution up to 50,000 DPI, no problem.
Why can't I find any information on how to get my current CS6 version to not only STOP resizing images to 9999.999 DPI, but also how to increase the max resolution allowed? Setting something like this should NOT be this difficult. Did Adobe make CS6 have a high value of 9999? If so, we need to downgrade to an older version because we need this resolution with our newer projects.
Please help me find a setting or way to allow my CS6 to both read and create files at resolutions over 10,000. Thanks.

Might this solution work for you in CS6?
Create a document double the size you need at 5,000 DPI, then reduce by 50% at the end?
CS6 13.0.6 screen shot:
I have no idea if this works for you or not.
Tuna wrote:
station_two
I don't want to go back to an older version, but I am shocked that this recent version (CS6), has limitations on the resolution offered…
I just want to know why new versions have a max pixel setting…
LOL !
The best answer I can give you is because that's what Adobe wants. Period.
"I cannot explain the universe to you, I can only describe it." That's what my astronomy professor used to say at the ETH just over half a century ago.
My experience in the last three decades is that Adobe will extremely rarely address such a question, if ever.

Still Images degrade when exporting

Hi. I am making an audio slide show with IMovie 09, using only still images shot with a Canon 5D. The images I import to Imovie have a very high resolutition and file size(300 dpi and about 5MB compressed), yet when I export the final project, the images are degraded. I can not find anything in preferences or in the help section about why this would be happening. Any thoughts?

How did you perform the export?
I was able to get a pretty good image export by exporting to Quicktime, making a 1440x1080 (my work is 4:3) H264 file at whatever the best quality settings were, audio to big endian 48 kHz, 16 bit.
The share-to-media-browser menu option also makes an H264 file, but I believe the quality setting is lowered and in my case I could only get "Large", which was half the resolution of the settings above.

Shaky still images

I have imported still images, jpeg files and they are shaky. I am having problems with them being shaky when I make some keyframe movements, mostly zooming in. I saw on the discussion it was suggested to reduce the size of the jpeg file which I did to 2048 x 1536. That seemed to work until I went further into my project adding more clips and still images to it. Suddenly, those still images added much earlier and working fine are now shaky. I tried the flicker filter setting it to max, and the image stablizer filter. Did not work. I saw someone said to check that the field dominance is set to none which they are. Also someone suggested adding gaussian blur filter. That made it not shaky but the quality of the photo is horrible, blurred as the effect suggests. Anyone have any suggestions?
Mac OS X (10.4.9)

Gaussian blur is the way to go, but you are in control of what it does. You can get great results with a little time spent. Remove interlace and flicker filter to do this.
Before you go to blur, check your levels. If your whites are peaking out of "legal" range you have a different problem and the blur won't completely take care of the jitters. Now for the blur:
- Use it vertically only. There's no need to add blur to the horizontal because that's not where the problem is. What you're doing is trying to mix just enough of adjacent video lines together so their contrast doesn't cause flickering.
- Use it extremely lightly. If your pictures were at sequence resolution you would probably want it set between .1 and .3 - in your case it's more but you don't say what your sequence rez is.
- Set it so the blur is gone, then back off untill you see a little bit of jitter. A small amount is often unnoticeable, and if you're right at the edge you're maintaining maximum resolution in the image.

Video Still Image Enhancement Software

Hello,
I was wondering if anyone out there can give me some assistance. We video horse shows and at a show last week we had some requests we have never had to deal with before -- a bunch of people wanting still images from our video. (The photographer at the show was not good at all and took few if any action shots).
At any rate, we collected names and numbers and told the people who asked we'd try. I've pulled stills off video before and used them on the covers of some of the training DVDs we've produced, but I've never tried to blow them up to anything beyond a 1 or 2 inch shot. These people would be happy with a 4x6.
Knowing that I have a number of folks out there who would pay for even a "reasonably" clear still image, I was wondering if there was any software newly available that helped boost the resolution of a video still and/or software that increased the quality of image.
I did some quick research on the web and found a Windows product called Topaz Moments and a Adobe Premere plug-in from RedHawkVision, but nothing that was a stand alone (or FCP compatible/Quicktime Compatible) product for Mac OSX. These products seemed to tout they did a multiple frame combine to render a sharper image than a single frame grab.
Any help provided would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Kim

Captures from DV video are 720x480 non-square pixels. The equivalent of a really cheap still camera c. 2000 (640x480 pixel image)
To get the best possible image pick a segment where there is NO or VERY LITTLE motion. The more motion,the more interlacing problems.
If you have interlacing issues (usually evidenced by jagged vertical lines), you may need to deinterlace the image, which basically means, you are throwing away half the vertical resolution in order to clear up the jaggies. The outcome of this is your image is effectively now a 640 x240 pixels, though the 240 will be doubled through digital trickery to become 480 again. Nevertheless, the resolution IS significantly decreased.
So.....
If you figure you will print these images out at 150 dpi, your 640x480 image is slightly wider than 4 inches and higher than 3 inches. 4x6 is possible but temper expectations before you hand them the prints.
Good luck.
FWIW, if you think you are going to have continued requests for stills, you will be much better served by an inexpensive (or expensive as your business model provides) digital camera for stills.
Good luck.
x

Max Resolution or DPI of still images

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