Still images resolution

Hi everybody!
I want to make a dvd of pictures (still images). I am cropping these from an iMovie project. I have two options: JPEG and PICT. Which is best? What is the difference in resolution? I don't think I will print them on photo-paper.
Best
Eric

Hi Lennart,
I have a movie and I want to create stills from it to eventually create a diaporama (with iMovie because it allows you to put more pictures in it).
I have never had problems with JPEGs generated by iMovie (yet) but found out there was the other option (PICT). The manual says to use PICT and I wanted to know what the advantage was (specially now that you are telling me that the resolution will be lower).
Best
Eric

Similar Messages

FCE 4 for slideshows with still images only

I recently put together a slideshow in FCE 4 from my still photographs. The show looks great when I run the original file. But the DVD I created looks awful. Is there a special way to size the still images for better quality. I sized them the way we do at camera club for our digital projector (1024 X 768, resolution 100).
Thanks.
Barb

Unfortunately, Tom, the slideshow capabilities in iPhoto are not sophisticated enough. I need to be able to "choreograph" the images with a musical selection. I like the marker features in FCE so I can easily time out the musical selection and place the transitions where I need them before I even import my images. I also like the ability to play with the audio, for example, trimming and fading out a piece of music that may be a tad long; or starting a selection of music after a title slide has been on the screen. I kind of need the type of editing one does with film but using still images. If only Apple would combine some of the features of Final Cut Express with a program like iPhoto that handles the still image resolution. Any possibility of that happening?

Max Resolution or DPI of still images

Hi,
This is an offshoot of a problem I thought I was having with Encore CS5 and transcoding, but it is also part of the solution.
I was creating about a 30 min project on Premier CS5 with AVCHD and still images imported with a couple of mp3 music tracks. Win 7, GTX 295, 6MB Ram.
I can do whatever I wanted in premier in terms of any jpeg could be imported, scaled, add motion, zoom, effects, whatever..
When it was time to put it on a blu-ray, it would get send to Encore via the dynamic link and would always fail at seemingly random places during transcode and of course, ultimately crash, or come up with an "object not found" and ultimately never burn.
I tried all the suggestions, taking spaces out of file names, burning to a blu-ray folder, and everthing else I could find in the forums.
I also spent 2.5 hours with Adobe logged into my computer and they could not figure out why:
ENCORE CS4 would transcode and burn the exact same project CS5 would choke on and fail.
I had ignored the suggestion in the forum that Premier can't handle large image files.. After all, they seemed to load and work, I couldn't imagine that transcoding would fail on a still image at 4000X3000 and 300dpi, but wouldn't you know it, I resized all of my images to lower res, and bingo, CS5 churned and burned the blu-ray. I did notice after trying, that if it won't render in the work area of PPro CS5, that it would also fail in the transcoding in Encore CS5, but not CS4. If it didn't like a particular image, it would just freeze the render process and lock PPro CS5 right up.. After several image resizes and lots of reboots, it finally all rendered, and then it was fine in Encore CS5 after that.
So this brings me to my point, and I would love an official answer or guideline from Adobe..
What is the max resolution of still images that can be used in PPro CS5 and consequentally be handled in Encore CS5? What about dpi?
Am I correct to assume that 300dpi is useless in HD? Meaning, even in true HD on a tv screen, isn't it still 72dpi? I couldn't figure out if it was the DPI or the dimensions of the image it couldn't deal with. It seemed as long as I was around 2500X1500 and under 200 DPI I was ok.. but more than that was definately a show stopper. However, I would also think a 300dpi picture would be sharper and crisper, so this stinks that premier can't seem to deal with a 8-10 megapixel jpeg or image..
I really can't believe it, I really thought Adobe would be ready for todays images from cameras, I mean I think nearly every camera you can put your hands on now shoots 8-10 megapixels which would put you right there in 4000X3000 and 300 dpi, how could Premier Pro CS5 and Encore choke on those? And more amazingly why does Encore CS4 not choke?
D.J.

Ann,
Thank you for the link to that article, and it sort of explains the limits, but it doesn't explain why an image off of a camera that was a jpg at 4000X3000 and 300dpi , which is about 10 megapixels and about 5MB in file size choked the transcode process, as it doesn't seem to be anywhere near the limits. As soon as I changed the images to something more like 2500X1200 and 180 dpi or less, everything was fine.
Could it have anything to do with cumulation? For example, I had about 20 of these images set up in a slide show sort of way, and added some motion to them in the effects.. Do you think that matters?
Also, the DPI in relation to video, as I said, it sure does seem that a larger image at 300 dpi offers quite a bit more clarity in the final product than something at a lower DPI..Especially in the case where I want to zoom in on the image or use some motion.. Maybe I'm nuts and a 72dpi 1920X1080 image is all I will ever need, but then in that case, it doesn't leave much room to be able to zoom in or out and move it around.. And if you do zoom in a lower quality image, then the quality will really be seen when it becomes part of the video.. Which is why I wanted to start with higher res stuff in the first place..
D.J.

Still image crop and resolution

Dear All,
I'm creating an H264 1280 x 720 video for Google Maps that incorporates still images and 1280x720 HD video. I've always used 96 dpi for image resolution in the past when I cropped images for standard 720 x 640 video and they looked good. If I crop my still images in Photoshop to 1260 x 720 at 96 dpi, jpeg, will that give me a good still image in the final product? I know that the dpi really doesn't matter unless we're talking about print, but I want to start with a good image resolution. There are many things to learn about all of the new formats! Thanks.
Small Town Gal

Hi SMG,
As Ann said, forget DPI for video, has absolutely no bearing on things. For a 1280x720 video, optimum still size is 1280x720 pixels. If you want to do any zooming/panning to animate the still, then of course a higher resolution will be beneficial.
Thanks
Jeff Pulera
Safe Harbor Computers

How to Work With Still Images in Premiere Elements 10

I am struggling with the still images in my Titles for my video project, and would really appreciate some help. I have done a lot of googling on this and searched this forum, but can't seem to find the answer I need, maybe not searching the right questions or just "not getting it". Not even PE Adobe tips or Adobe TV cover this, although it seems important to know. I am not clear how PE10 will handle the resolution of an imported still image or graphic art from Photoshop. Perhaps this topic will also help others as well.
I am working on a video project for my job, editing an old training video. Created new Title graphics in Photoshop, inserted the Title images and integrated with video clips, then exported the video segments as MPEG files. I burned the whole video to DVD.
When the final DVD plays on a computer or TV screen, the photo images in the titles are fuzzy even though they were clear 300 dpi images. (I know dpi doesn't matter in video). The title text is also a bit fuzzy and the title text that has animation applied to it is even more fuzzy. Yet the old MPEG video clips look fine - it's just my title graphics and text that look bad (embarrasing).
So I need to know how to improve the quality of the still images/graphics for a video??
Project settings:
- Hard Disk, Standard 48kHz
- Editing Mode: DV NTSC
- Frame: 720 x 480 (0.9091)
- Frame rate: 29.97fps
- with "Optimize Stills" box checked
Using these settings because I am working with MPEG files from an old training video CD.
File Export: MPEG, NTSC DVD Standard
I export the video clips as MPEGS because they will be burned to a CD or DVD for distribution to our staff offices.
Work Details:
In Photoshop, I created still image graphics for each Title sized at 720 x480 with high resolution photos and company logo (300 dpi), and save them as a bitmap to import into PE10. In the Timeline, I insert the still image in "Video 1" track, then in Video 2 track create a Title over it for text (some animated, some still). Sometimes I stack 2 or three titles with text in separate video tracks over one still title image. Yes, there is a red line across the top in the Timeline because I didn't render the still images.
Questions:
• What is the best resolution for images imported into PE10 from Photoshop?
• Should I be creating title graphics/images at 720 x 480 or a larger ratio like 1920 x 1080 so it will display better when seen on a computer or TV?
• Do I need to render each title image in the timeline so that it will eventually display better in the MPEG?
• Is it better to create a title and then insert the still image into the title so they are integrated, rather than layered on separate video tracks?
I would greatly appreciate any assistance.

When the final DVD plays on a computer or TV screen, the photo images in the titles are fuzzy even though they were clear 300 dpi images. (I know dpi doesn't matter in video). The title text is also a bit fuzzy and the title text that has animation applied to it is even more fuzzy. Yet the old MPEG video clips look fine - it's just my title graphics and text that look bad (embarrasing).
Remember that DVD-Video was designed for CRT TV sets, and was a major step up from VHS tape. However, when viewed on an HD computer monitor, or HD TV *, it is still ONLY 720 x 480, with is about 1/4 of the resolution as 1920 x 1080, which is about what we are used to seeing on those display devices. That is but only 25% of the quality. It can never look as good as HD material.
Good luck, and if I missed something, please point that out to me.
Hunt
* With the advent of BD players, and up-rezzing DVD players, things HAVE improved, when viewing a DVD-Video on an HD TV. The newer players have up-rezzing chips, that do a very good job of "improving" the viewed material's quality. However, even with those amazing chips, DVD-Video will NEVER be as good as a full-HD source. Also, computers do not have those up-rezzing chips, so when one views a DVD-Video on a high-rez computer monitor, it will still look pretty bad. There ARE a couple of new DVD software players, that improve the quality of DVD-Video played on a high-rez computer monitor, and a few look fairly promising. I speculate that we will see some more development in the DVD-Video area, especially as BD is not proving to be the big seller, that many promised. Even 3D is not helping BD realize its promise.

Using still images with Final Cut (and the apple suite in general)

I have had a re-occuring and long term problem that has caused me many lost hours of head scratching and work arounds, and as of yet I have not been able to come up with a good solution.
Its to do with integrating still images with the Final Cut suite.
If I receive a high quality image from a client to use in their video and I then try importing it into Final Cut and animating it, it always ends up looking like a pile of ahem. Often I will get "swimming" lines appear across fine detail on the image, and parts of it will flicker as it moves across the screen. For instance, if I have a picture of some blinds or other fine detail (especially horizontal and vertical lines), when I add a grow and throw movement to it the detail will become very noisy - buzzing and flickering like mad.
I have found I can counter this by resizing the image in photoshop to a resolution closer to SD video (700w or 500h) - but I always end up losing detail, and the flickering and noise is only reduced, not eliminated. Other things that have helped are blur effects applied at a very low level, like 0.5 blur, so its not noticeable visually, but Final Cut seems to treat it differently and quieten the noise and flicker down.
However, all of these workarounds are ultimately still giving a reduced quality product.
Also, this problem is not necessarily constrained to Final Cut, I am currently fighting DVD Studio Pro because it is murdering the text quality in a stills slideshow I am creating - and in this situation there is no animation being applied. No matter what file type (psd, jpeg, tiff, png...) or size I output the text and images from Photoshop in, the moment DVD studio pro gets hold of it, it turns to cripe.
For a while I was putting it down to the fact that I usually edit in SD (PAL) formats, and there just wasn't the resolution available to reproduce fine detail. However, I do often see other people achieving pin-sharp fine detail on still images and text in SD formats (the Apple templates are a good example)
So, my question to you, oh great and high boffins, if you are dealing with still images and text, how do you do it? How do you work around any noise problems you have, and how do you produce those pin-sharp images (both moving and still) I see in other professional productions?
Quad G5 Mac OS X (10.4.8)

still images with too high a resolution will always cause problems. this is due to the detail of the image being finer than the scanline of the tv can display ... obviously this will caise the image to flicker as these details alternately appear and disappear as and when the scanline can display them. as you have discovered, the answer is to apply a very small blur, the effect being that the detail is spread by the blur such that the scanline can dislay it correctly.
text issues are often rooted in the same problem ... unless the text is placed very carefully (whole even number on the y axis) then the quality may be impaired due to the resulting interlacing/scanline issues

How do I change the image resolution of a photo?

Hi..,
     I am the beginner in Photoshop.
     I want to change one image resolution from 72 dpi to 300 dpi.
     So, I search and got one pdf for change the resolution of the image. In that they mention, take the "Printscreen" of the image and paste in the photoshop and change the mode(Index - flatten) and change resolution via the "Image -> image size -> Resolution".
     Like that i did, it changed correctly.
     After that I Open one already saved image file in Photoshop and do that same steps but the resolution was not changed.
So, now how to change that saved image resolution to 300 dpi...??
Regards.,
VISWA

Viswa,
To find the current resolution of your image, follow these steps:
With your image open in Photoshop, Image > Image Size (Like you've already done earlier).
Check the resolution as shown above. If it doesn't show 300, enter 300, hit OK and 'Save' your image.
Open the file and check again. If it still shows 72, post back with more details of the type of file you're trying to open in Photoshop and if possible, a screenshot so we can help.
-ST

Using still image in FCP and Motion

I'm using still images in Motion (and FCP) and exporting them to Quicktime movie files. What's the best size and resolution for the images and are JPGs or TIF best? I'm exporting for 720 X 480, and currently my JPGs are 4 x 6 at 300 dpi with a pixel width and height of 1312 x 2000. I'm adding some behaviors to the images in Motion (motion paths and shrink/grow).
My FCP project is setup as a DV NTSC 48kHz, 720 x 480, editing timebase=59.94, timecode Rate=same as editing timebase, compressor-DV/DVPRO-NTSC, quality 100%.
When I export to Quicktime the movies are very low quality--lots of noise and moire pattern etc.
How do I get the best qualtiy using still images? Is it my FPS setting, image pixel size, compressor setting? Also, do the movies need to be deinterlaced?
The preview in the FCP browser and canvas looks a little better but I do notice noise (moire patterns) along the sharp edges of the still images.
I've seen QT movies of these very same images (done by someone else who is no longer around) and they are much better quality.
Does anyone have an appropriate workflow for this type of project? The final movies are to be shown on a flatscreen monitor from a local computer, so the file sizes can be relatively large (300mb).
I can post an example of he movie files if that might help.
Thanks.
Pedro

David, your a genius!!! You posted your reply on my birthday, and I missed it until today!
Fotomagico is devastatingly easy to use and absolutely makes me want to cry at the amount of time I wasted creating photo slideshows in FCP!
I opened Fotomagico up and created a slideshow, one that I had already created in FCP and had take me FIVE HOURS to create... in TEN MINUTES!!!!!!!!! Aaaaaaaaah.
I couldn't believe it. I thought there had to be a catch or something. This was too easy the quality can't be there... but it was. It's amazing and I can't thank you enough for all the future hours you have saved for me.
Al Romero

Still images exported to DVD look deinterlaced and flicker on TV monitor

Hi,
I have tried tried almost everything and I still have issues with the still images exported to DVD as sequencefrom FCP 7.0 by using Compressor are deinterlaced and flicker on TV monitor. Please help remove the annoying flicker.
My FCP Timeline Sequence settings match the image resolution:
Frame Size: 1024 x 682 (double of 720 x 480 standard DVD res)
Pixel Aspect Ratio: Square
Field Dominance: None
Compressor: Photo JPG (also tried, DVCPRO-NTSC)
I cropped the original images in Photoshop to the 1024 x 682 and saved as tiffs. They still look deinterlaced in FCP timeline and exported to DVD on my iMac computer monitor.
Final output of DVD will be on this monitor:
Specifications:
Ikegami
Model: VCM-2101
Resolution: 450 TV Lines (Horizontal)
Should I crop the images to 450 horizontal pixels or the double of that 900?
How can I match the sequence or the images settings to avoid the flicker and deinterlaced look on that monitor? I am not able to test the image by having the monitor next to computer.
Compressor:
I used custom DVD settings in Compressor for 90 min best quality DVD. Tried the Porgressive and "Same as Source" in Output field.
In "Crop to" and "Padding" I set for preserve source aspect ratio and letterbox area of source.
I followed the advices from below and I still did not resolve the problem. Please is there anythign else I can try?
Thanks a lot..
Re: Poor Quality Stills
Dec 19, 2006 4:08 PM (in response to Steve Braker)
Things to try (In increasing order of image degradation)
- (in FCP) field order>none
- (in FCP or Photoshop) reduce whites by 10% - reduces overly bright areas
- (in FCP) flicker filter - minimum
- (in Photoshop) motion blur>vertical> .2 - .5 pixels - blurs vertically only
- (In FCP or Photoshop) Gaussian blur> .2 - .5 pixels -blurs both horizontally as well as vertically
- (in FCP or Photoshop) deinterlace - throws away half the image and is generally not appropriate on scanned images

Dear Russ,
Thank you very much. Yes, there is something else in the sequence, old documentary, 768 x 570 (no field dominance, 25fps, Apple ProRes 422) but the images are more imporant.
make a progressive sequence with square pixels. (I am partial to 720P, 1080 should work – or 540). Choose Pro Res 422
Do you mean that I should make a sequence in FCP with these settings? If yes, how can I set a "progressive" sequence? I dont see a setting for output field in FCP sequence settings, lnly in customizing Compressor output DVD format.
Also: "720P, 1080 should work – or 540" are you talking about Frame size? If so, to set in Compressor or in FCP?
If you have interlaced material, then de-interlace before you bring it in. If you don't have interlaced clips, don't de-interlace.
The images are not interlaced after I crop them, apply motion blur filter in Photoshop but look interlaced in FCP timeline after I import them and even to the same as photos sequence in FCP timeline.
Please help and thank you for your comments.

Finding image resolution in a PDF?

I am currently working to perform some maintenance for an app that formats and resizes documents, usually PDFs. The problem happens when certain files are uploaded with an unusually large image resolution (according to the Preflight Properties, 2222.222/2222.222 pt/in). The documents with this resolution come in with file sizes of 36"x24" and end up formatted to 8.5"x11". This leaves the text and a lot of information unreadable.
I am using Visual Basic with iTextSharp to interact with the PDFs that come in. I'm able to find the width and height in points of the document without issue. Finding the image's width/height pixel count is what is giving me fits.
Is there any way in iTextSharp that I can determine the pixel count for the width/height of a PDF Image, or am I heading down a dead end street here?
Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.

I hate to reply again, but I'm still stuck. I've been through the SDK and documentation and have had no luck finding anything to help solve this problem. I don't really need to extract the image per se, I just need to find the resolution of it. Could you possibly point me in a definitive direction in the SDK/Documentation that I could use? There are a couple examples that deal with Preflight but none dealing with the image in the PDF or its properties.
Thanks in advance.

Exported Raw Conversion Image Resolution and Assigning a Color Profile, etc

In Aperture 1.1, although I set the exported Raw conversion image resolution to 300 dpi in the preferences, it continues to come out at 72 dpi which is something of an inconvenience. Also, is it possible to assign a color profile to the "exported version" so that it is congruent to my PS CS2 color workspace (if that is what its called). Is this program capable of carrying out a conversion as a background operation? Finally, can the layout windows be configured so that they remember how they have been used in the past? Thanks.

Iatrogenic huh! Cool!
Anyway, I'm not real clear on what it is you are trying to accomplish. Despite your obvious vocabulary skills, there seems to be some disconnect relative to what you are trying to accomplish. You are right that "exporting a version" in Aperture is roughly equivalent to what happens in ACR when you "Open" a RAW image into Photoshop. In both cases you have, hopefully, already done the adjusting of parameters you want prior to "exporting", or "opening". When you "open" or "export" you wind up with an "image" composed of pixels, whereas in the RAW adjustment phase you are just working with a temporary thumbnail and a set of mathematical instructions. Big difference, I suppose is that when you "open" and image from ACR into CS2, the resulting image is truly just pixels and has not had a "file type" applied to the file yet, until you "save" it, while in Aperture, if you "export" a file to CS2, or to the desktop, you end up with the file type already applied. Presuming you "export" a 16 bit TIFF or PSD, there is no operational difference.
I could be wrong, but with the new Bayer Demosaicing algorithms in Aperture 1.1, and the Camera RAW adjustments, you should be able to come up with an adjusted image that is VERY close if not identical to one done in ACR, with the possible exception of lens abberation adjustment. I was very critical of the RAW adjustments in 1.0.1, but I am very happy with the capabilites in 1.1. That said, I think there is still some room for improvement in user friendliness of some of the adjustments such as Levels.

Scanning of Film Prints by Processing Labs - Image Resolution

I shoot a fair amount of film, in addition to digital, so I usually scan my own photos to be able to use the image editor. I've asked around to the run of the mill photo labs (wally world, costco, kmart, etc) about having my images output to picture CD and there appears to be quite a bit of difference in the image resolution and output format they offer. Many of them can't top my basic flatbed scanner.
anyone have any insight into this, or suggestions for where I might go to get a 5MP output image tif?
Most of the photo labs offer jpg at around 1600 x 1200
thanks!

Tyler/Chuck
My comment came about for 3 reasons:
1) I have come across quite a lot of people who either buy or save up for DSLRs who don't need them. They just think it's the only route to good pictures. The reality is that, in some cases, they never get a good pic because the cameras are too complex. The main thing is to be aware of the options.
2) For the last 15 years of film photography [I gave up film 3 years ago], I used SLRs. There really wasn't a choice. I started out with a bag full of lenses, which I lugged around. I missed loads of pictures because I hadn't lugged it. In the latter few years I started using "super-zoom" lenses - 28-200 and then 28-300. The effect was that I just didn't need any other optics. I was still carrying a camera weighing about 1Kg, but that was an improvement.
3) For me, photography is about taking pictures. Period. I come across so many people who are obsessed with all the equipment. They buy all the mags and are always hankering after something new. I sometimes wonder if they ever take any pictures [other than all those "test shots"]. I've had the same digicam for 3 years. I might upgrade it soon, but I'm not in a hurry.

Using still images in PP CS6?

Hi all, newbie to this forum so hello, happy christmas and love to the lot of ya haha
I am trying to make a video for my girlfriends artwork so am using purely still images and text but for the life of me, i cannot get the pics to show at their correct resolution at all in pp. Even the text i did in photoshop looks suspect. They all seem to be very pixelated, even when i export to movie. The images are all 300 ppi and professionally taken but when in pp, they look like they've been taken on a cheap mobile phone.... not helpful at all.
I'm fairly new to all this movie stuff but i do understand technical speak so don't worry about blinding me with science
Any help would be a god send right now so thanks in advance.

1st, read Photo Scaling for Video http://forums.adobe.com/thread/450798
-Too Large May = Crash http://forums.adobe.com/thread/879967
-And another crash report http://forums.adobe.com/thread/973935
2nd, after your pictures are properly scaled, you need to realize that 300dpi for photo printing has nothing to do with the resolution of a DVD screen... which is, I think, 72dpi... Link to DVD Demystified FAQ http://forums.adobe.com/thread/544206
If you want higher resolution, you need to use a HiDef BluRay disc

Still image issues (I've already read the other similar post- didn't apply)

Still having issues with still images in my timeline. Viewer they're fine, Canvas they're repulsive.
Seq. settings are NTSC, 29.97, 48k. I have tried several different extensions for the stills and have even tried importing them at different sizes. I know I'm not the first person to incorporate stills in my timeline - how do I solve this? (I followed the advice on a similar thread from a few days ago).
Also, I exported a small clip and viewed it on a different computer as a QT file and it was just as bad.
Please help. I'll make you a mix cd or a burrito if you can help me out. Thanks.

#1 Transitions "Insufficient Content"
Shane's Stock Answer #1: Trying to add a Transition and get the error "Insufficient Content"
A full 1 second cross fade reaches 15 frames into each clip. So, if you want to change a cut to a cross fade, there has to be at least 15 additional frames of each clip. Say you're trying to cross fade from one clip into the very first frame of a second clip. FCP cannot 'create' 15 more frames of the second clip to do a cross fade. If they're not there, you're out of luck.
What you are running into is that you are marking an out point at the far edges of a clip then adding a cross dissolve, say 30 frames (one second) in duration. Since the dissolve is centered on the cut, it will start 15 frames before the cut, and try to go 15 frames AFTER the cut...which it can't do. What you need to do is plan how long your dissolve will be and back-time your cut so that it works.
You need to make sure that your clips have enough media (called 'handles') at the beginning of the incoming clip and at the end of the outgoing clip for the transition. For example, if you have a 1 second (30 frame) dissolve, your in and out point need to be at least 15 frames from the edge of the clip.
I have them all here:
http://library.creativecow.net/articles/rossshane/fcpfaq.php
http://library.creativecow.net/articles/rossshane/fcpfaq2.php
http://library.creativecow.net/articles/rossshane/fcpfaq3.php
Most of them...I keep adding.
one of the most popular is number 8:
Shane's Stock Answer #8: External Monitor Viewing
If you are working with DV, this is simple. First connect your computer to a camera or deck via firewire, Then connect the camera/deck to your TV/Monitor via RCA or S-Video.
Then start up your camera and tv, then open fcp.
Go to the View Menu, choose > External video > all frames
VIEW>Video playback should be Apple firewire NTSC (If you are using an NTSC set)
VIEW>Audio playback should be Audio follows Video
Techinially, this should send synched video to your TV
If for some reason you can't view your timeline on your external monitor, there are a few things to try:
1) Make sure that the camera/deck is connected and powered on BEFORE you open FCP.
2) In the Final Cut Pro menu select AUDIO/VIDEO Preferences and make sure your signal is being sent out thru Firewire DV.
3) Go to the menu and select VIEW>EXTERNAL>ALL FRAMES.
4) Click in the % box above the image and select FIT TO WINDOW.
5) Go to VIEW->refresh A/V devices
6) Make sure the Log & Capture window is closed
If you want it to play in both the canvas and the external monitor you need to go to the FINAL CUT PRO menu and select AUDIO/VIDIO settings and make sure MIRROR ON DESKTOP is selected under the PLAYBACK OUTPUT section.
If you are working with HDV footage, FCP 6 allows you to view this via firewire, but ONLY as downconverted DV. It won't look the best, but you can see it. To do this,
If you need to view any format other than DV at full resolution, then you need to look into capture cards. Several standard definition and high definition models are available from www.aja.com and www.decklink.com. With these options you'll need a proper monitor to view full broadcast colors, but all models allow for realtime standard definition downconvert, allowing you to view HD on an SD monitor.
The Matrox MXO is another option that is output only, but allows you to view your footage on an Apple Cinema Display at full broadcast quality.
Shane

Still Images without flicker

I am looking for the best settings to run a 3d Max walkthrough (with still images) into Premiere CS4 and then export to F4V WITHOUT such a quality loss. I have succesfully exported to .mov and the clip looks great. Try exporting to wmv or F4V or FLV and the file size is small and the quality sucks. The .mov file is 119 mb, too large for client to download. The wmv or flv or f4v look too terrible to send on. I have tried using de-interlacing and flicker control and have had no positive results.
Please help.
Dave

Welcome to the forums.
Export at full resolution using a lossless codec and then use the free Windows Media Encoder to get the best possible WMV encoding. It has far more options than what is available in PPro.
Cheers
Eddie

Still images resolution

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