Maybe yet another posting for boot noises...

Each and every time I start or reboot my MacBook, I have to endure the harmony of two noises: the everything-is-OK chime, and the spin-up noise of the SuperDrive. I have wasted my time trying to disable them only in vain (
StartupSound Preference Pane did not work). One answer I found this Apple Support Communites was actually smash the SuperDrive (i.e., there is no way).
Why does Apple just give a simple option to disable them for the users who want to do so? It would just take one day to implement the option. I know like 99.9999% time it boots without a problem, why should I hear the chime? I do not use a DVD rom to boot (in fact, Lion does not even come on DVD), why cannot I just set the boot device order like with all other computers?
Yes, there are lots of Apple fans, but these kinds of inablity to customise the system waste lots of people's valuable time around the world, and make people want to use other OSes. Even if like 80% of the users do not care about the boot chime and boot spin-up noise, if an Apple engineer can spend one day and can save 20% the users around the world out of their misery, is this not enough?
P.S. : Yea, I will remove the SuperDrive next time I open up my MacBook.

No.
First, even if it is 2%, not 20%, the option could be easily implemented. 2% of MacBook users could be millions of people. As if one engineer could do so in 2~3 days. If that can benefit a million users, cannot this be justfiable?
Second, giving an option does NOT impact other people. If they are happy with the boot chime, they would NOT turn it off, and it does not make any difference if there is an option for that. If choosing not to boot from a DVD rom is an option (like in most laptops), it would make no difference to people who does not change the option. I know what I am doing, so just give me the options.
I am sorry if this forum is not suitable for my post. I did not want to order Apple to do something. I just wanted to share my feelings on these problems, with other users.
I know MacBook is great laptop. It is like 90 things out of 100 things are good, and 10 things are bad.
People who only talk about the 10 things are Apple-haters.
People who are just too facinated by the 90 things and cannot say no to the 10 things are iSheep.
People like I enjoy the 90 things but also criticise the 10 things so that those could be fixed.
red_menace wrote:
You pretty much hit it right there - Apple (or anyone else for that matter) isn't going to do anything for 20% of the users if it can impact the other 80%. The inability to customize these things also avoids wasting time with service calls, and it would certainly take more than a day to engineer a way to disable these things yet keep them functional - a power on self test won't do much good if you can't indicate the results, now would it? Some of those optical drives are a bit noisy, and not just at startup (later models are quieter), although that doesn't have anything to do with the machine trying to boot from it.
The appropriate place for these kinds of feature requests is http://www.apple.com/feedback/, since no one here can do anything about it.

Similar Messages

Kernel panics - apologies for yet another post but have tried many things

recently started getting regular kernel panics
so far I have:
- cleaned out inside for dust
- connected only keybd and mouse
- disk utility to repair permissions (and applejack)
- reset PRAM, NVRAM, SMU
- changed PRAM battery
- tried new RAM
reboots ok but within a couple of minutes I get the grey screens coming down and requirement to switch off power for a restart
Fans switch in within a minute or so for jet takeoff
temparatures of cpus currently = 46 / 44 / 46 / 46C (using XRG)
last error log
Sat Jan 1 00:04:33 2000
Unresolved kernel trap(cpu 0): 0x300 - Data access DAR=0x0000000000000004 PC=0x0000000000085D64
Latest crash info for cpu 0:
Exception state (sv=0x5c812c80)
PC=0x00085D64; MSR=0x00009030; DAR=0x00000004; DSISR=0x42000000; LR=0x00065230; R1=0x5C7B73E0; XCP=0x0000000C (0x300 - Data access)
Backtrace:
0x00000000 0x00065230 0x000688D4 0x0007295C 0x00072C40 0x000690F8
0x00318100 0x002C8868 0x002CBAC4 0x002CC2B4 0x002B248C 0x002CC9A4 0x002B248C 0x002CDA4C
0x002B0764 0x00BFC208 0x00BFC358 0x00C19D44 0x00C1E54C 0x00C11DF8 0x00C13F54 0x0036011C
0x0003F2A0 0x000B1DD4
Kernel loadable modules in backtrace (with dependencies):
com.apple.iokit.AppleBCM5701Ethernet(2.2.3b1)@0xc10000->0xc26fff
dependency: com.apple.iokit.IOPCIFamily(2.6)@0x61c000
dependency: com.apple.iokit.IONetworkingFamily(1.6.1)@0xbf1000
com.apple.iokit.IONetworkingFamily(1.6.1)@0xbf1000->0xc0ffff
Proceeding back via exception chain:
Exception state (sv=0x5c812c80)
previously dumped as "Latest" state. skipping...
Exception state (sv=0x5c7f9c80)
PC=0x00000000; MSR=0x0000D030; DAR=0x00000000; DSISR=0x00000000; LR=0x00000000; R1=0x00000000; XCP=0x00000000 (Unknown)
BSD process name corresponding to current thread: kernel_task
Mac OS version:
9L31a
Kernel version:
Darwin Kernel Version 9.8.0: Wed Jul 15 16:57:01 PDT 2009; root:xnu-1228.15.4~1/RELEASE_PPC
System model name: PowerMac11,2
System uptime in nanoseconds: 33066192352
unloaded kexts:
(none)
loaded kexts:
com.apple.driver.AppleTopazAudio 2.5.8f1 - last loaded 956585363
com.apple.driver.AppleOnyxAudio 2.5.8f1
com.apple.GeForcePPC 5.4.8
com.apple.nvidia.nv40halppc 5.4.8
com.apple.driver.AudioIPCDriver 1.0.6
com.apple.driver.AppleTexasAudio 2.5.8f1
com.apple.driver.AppleTexas2Audio 2.5.8f1
com.apple.driver.PowerMac112ThermalProfile 3.4.0d0
com.apple.driver.AppleDACAAudio 2.5.8f1
com.apple.driver.AppleSCCSerial 1.3.2
com.apple.driver.AppleHWSensor 1.9d0
com.apple.driver.IOI2CSMUSat 1.9d0
com.apple.driver.IOI2CLM7x 1.9d0
com.apple.driver.AppleUSBDisplays 2.0.2
com.apple.iokit.IOFireWireIP 1.7.7
com.apple.driver.AppleK2Driver 1.7.2f1
com.apple.driver.Apple_iSight 1.1.4
com.apple.driver.IOI2CMaxim6690 1.9d0
com.apple.driver.AppleSMUMonitor 1.9d0
com.apple.driver.IOI2CMaxim1631 1.9d0
com.apple.driver.AppleI2S 1.0.1f1
com.apple.driver.CSRUSBBluetoothHCIController 2.1.9f10
com.apple.driver.IOI2CPulsar 1.5.2d0
com.apple.driver.IOI2CControllerSMU 1.1.1d2
com.apple.driver.AppleFileSystemDriver 1.1.0
com.apple.driver.AppleUSBHIDMouse 1.2.4b3
com.apple.driver.AppleUSBMergeNub 3.5.2
com.apple.driver.CSRHIDTransitionDriver 2.1.9f10
com.apple.driver.PioneerSuperDrive 2.0.9
com.apple.iokit.SCSITaskUserClient 2.1.1
com.apple.driver.XsanFilter 2.7.91
com.apple.iokit.IOATABlockStorage 2.0.6
com.apple.driver.AppleUSBHub 3.4.9
com.apple.iokit.IOUSBUserClient 3.5.2
com.apple.iokit.IOATAPIProtocolTransport 1.5.0

struggling to get it to boot up now
even on the boot up process, its often moving to the 'take-off' fan noise before the login screen
if it does boot up then it doesnt last long before the grey screen/restart screen appears
I assume I can use the latest install disk for OSX? (10.5)
ethernet cable not connected, although I had been using ethernet for internet connection recently before relocating the machine
after having changed the PRAM battery, the date is no longer being retained (possibly wrong way around??)
slowly getting frustrated...

Yet another "won't boot from a certain disk" issue

My Sawtooth G4 just got a new second drive, which seems to work fine. At first it wouldn't boot OS 9 (there are multiple partitions on it) but after some messing with the OS 9 install disk and changing the Startup Disk in the control panel I got that sorted out. The real problem is with OS X. I'm running 10.3.9 on my primary HD and I wanted another OS X system on the new HD so I CCC'd my first disk to the new HD's first partition (which worked fine on the old drive's second partition, now erased) but the Mac won't boot from it. It showed up under the boot options menu (hold option down) but simply wouldn't boot from it no matter what. Finally, I erased the partition and installed OS 10.3 then upgraded it to 10.3.9 (still won't boot from it) but the problem continues. I get the spinning wheel followed by the circle with the bar through it.
It looks to me like there are tons of possible causes for this after reading through several similar threads here. Could somebody tell me what the most logical approach is to fixing this? Or maybe there's some stupid obvious thing I forgot?
Thanks!

Haven't you ever had a system crash or something that messed up your startup disk or some portion of the OS? And what if your prefs or anything custom has been affected? If you only have one startup drive and it gets hosed you are really in a world of hurt, as then it's up to recovery methods to salvage things. And if you don't have unlimited time to sort all this out? It seems obvious why I would want two startup disks - I've used this system for fifteen years and it just works, thats all. Under OS 9 everything was a lot simpler - you just copied the files to another disk and if they were there, you got a boot disk; everything is a lot more complex in X and I don't really understand it even now.
Then there's the issue of why the other startup disk, while recognized as such, won't boot. That's a puzzle to me. I can't imagine how the Carbon Copy Cloned disk wouldn't work for this - that's what I did before and it worked fine.
The new drive is a SATA drive with an OWC card, but since the partitions with OS9 boots work fine I don't know what to think. (I have to have OS 9 because I still use Vision for my sequencing and audio recording, and because 9 crashes more often than X I always have at least two boot disks of my main system - just in case.)
Thanks.

Yet another post about speed issues !

So had my infinity for more than 10wks now. Have been told time n time again by customer service, sales and technical help that I should get between 67 and 80 meg but after countless phone calls and apparent 'tweaks' at the exchange I'm still only getting 46 at best. Openreach engineer I spoke to in the street said it leaves the box in the street ( 2 short streets away ) at 80 so surely the problem is been m between the box and my house! Why don't they send someone to check this. One of the tech help dept even told me my line can only support 40meg and that I have been miss led over the speed! ! Though others have said I can get the higher speed. Another call back promised for today did not receive any call!
Think I'll be joining virgin when this year's contact is up, 10 months to go and counting, unless I can get out sooner for miss selling.

mushka wrote:
similar prob as me,, yet john46 keeps copying/pasting same stuff week in week out im sure he works for bt as every one has issues with speed etc and he posts same thing over and over
If it's a similar problem would you not expect a similar answer! The reason you are asked to perform speed tests etc is to try and establish where the problem may be.
As most people can not be bothered or do not search the forum before posting and perhaps finding the answer it is necessary for those people who give up their own time to try and help, to post the same thing time and time again.
I just hope that if you do have a problem it is not the same as somebody else may have had since you don't seem to want a cut and paste answer.

Any Help For Yet Another HDCP For Playback/Netflix Problem?

I have a very complex set-up and had no problem streaming until the other night and I have tried every single solution I can find online under the sun so that is why I am posting here.
I have a Pioneer Receiver that I used a Terk Smart HDMI 3 x 1 Selector with and was able to stream Netflix with no problem.
This is how everything used to be set up:
Pioneer Receiver
Blu-ray IN
HDMI OUT Terk
DVD IN
Panasonic DVD Recorder OUT
OUT
Panasonic LCD TV HDMI 1
Terk HDMI 3 x 1 Selector
OUT
Pioneer Receiver Bluray IN
Panasonic Bluray Player
Input 1
AppleTV (3rd Gen.)
Input 2
Mac Mini (2010)
Input 3
Now here's the rub: I also have a PS3. I used to unplug either the ATV or Mini whenever I wanted to use it and I got tired of switching out so I bought a Monoprice 8 x 1 HDMI Selector. The logic here being that I would have more than enough HDMI inputs to plug in everything.
When I first hooked up the Monoprice, I hooked the OUT from it into the Bluray IN on the Pioneer and then hooked all of the HDMI cables from all of the various electronics into the INputs on it. Tested all of them to see that it autoselected whatever I had chosen and even was able to stream on NF.
This is how I have everything hooked up now:
Monoprice 8 x 1
OUT
Pioneer Receiver Bluray IN
ATV
Input 1
Panasonic Bluray Player
Input 2
PS3
Input 3
Mac Mini
Input 4
Panasonic DVD Recorder*
Input 5
*Bluray IN and OUT are the only HDMI slots in use on the Pioneer Receiver using this hookup.
Now all of a sudden yesterday I went to stream NF via the ATV and I got that "This content requires HDCP for playback" error.
I did everything I could think of and also tried all of the suggestions I could find on the web. I had already switched out the HDMI cables as I had bought new ones when I got the Monoprice. So I hooked the Terk back up thinking it would "fix" things. No dice. I put the old HDMI cables back on. No dice. I have it hooked up now with the old HDMI cables and still no dice. I unplugged everything and let it sit thinking I could force a new HDMI handshake. NF started streaming for 5 seconds and froze -- and then the error message.
I also have a Scientific Atlanta DVR that the ATV is plugged into that the HDMI 2 of the Panasonic TV is connected via HDMI. The Panasonic TV isn't "old" as I think I got it in late 2009 or late 2010, as it has more than enough HDMI inputs, component, and also a PC connection -- in case someone wanted to suggest the TV wasn't capable of handling the hookups. The ATV is running the latest version of the software.
This is really frustrating since it worked with no problem from the day I got the ATV and now after upgrading the switcher to get more HDMI inputs, everything went kaput.
And I just don't know what to do.
I'm not sure if having everything being dependent upon the Panasonic TV being powered on is affecting things, but it never affected things when I was using the 3 x 1 HDMI switch. When I wanted to use the ATV, I'd press the Bluray input on the Pioneer receiver, hit the ATV remote and it would come on. Click into NF and voila: streaming with no problems.
Currently, I still do the same thing -- and I can listen to the radio, stream in iTunes Match on the ATV. It's just the NF issue that's really beyond me. The only thing I can think of to try is to maybe put the DVR in the surge protector slot so that it has to be powered on so that everything else will power up instead of the TV?
I'm hoping someone has a suggestion that involves something other than restarting/restoring the ATV, or unplugging things for 30 seconds because I have tried everything I've come across. I just don't know what to do but I really would like to be able to use NF on the ATV because I like the fact that it plays in Dolby, and I really don't want to have to go back to the PS3 to utilize that feature.
In the meantime, I guess I will switch the DVR on the surge protector with the TV and see what happens if I change the way things power up in the chain.

I am at a loss. I thought I had a micro USB cord but since I didn't, I wasn't able to downgrade the software.
I did a complete restore for kicks.
This is the current setup
ATV HDMI
Panasonic TV HMDI 2
ATV optical output
Pioneer Receiver
Again, all of the other devices run through the 8 x 1 switch box which is NOT powered on to use the ATV.
I get the HDCP error whenever I try to access the following:
Netflix
Trailers
Vimeo
WSJ Live
HHL and the other sports channels
These work fine:
Radio
iTunes Match
Podcasts
Flickr
TV Shows and Movies because I tested both watching previews and they streamed perfectly
I've changed the settings on the ATV until I'm blue in the face and this is what they are currently:
Dolby - Auto
Audio Output - Auto
HDMI Output - Auto
TV Resolution - 1080p HD - 60Hz -- and yes I've had it set on both "Auto" and 720p HD - 60Hz and neither stopped the error once it started happening
All of the equipment is HDCP compliant as I checked
The cable between the TV and ATV
The 8 x 1 switch box
Panasonic TV specs -- it is HDCP compliant as I said in my 3rd post (according to the manual)
The Pioneer Receiver (for good measure)
I have no idea of what to do other than to hope that Apple does something with the next update to restore everything, as this HDCP issue is really beyond annoying and it's clear 5.2 broke something. In the meantime, I really am open to suggestions to try something else other than smashing the ATV with a hammer

Yet another script for Cyclosaurus to write (please)!

There are lots of posts about people losing their domain files, I myself in fact lost a page (Thanks Jim!) and had to rebuild it.
This spurred me to create backups of my domain files, that I manually juggle! (As well as a full system backup, one was due)
Then I thought to myself, wouldn't it be nice if there was an app that you could click, and it would take a copy of your current domain.sites file, add a time and date stamp to the name, and then store it in ~/iWeb Domain Back Ups?
Anyway, just a thought
Will

Folks
I am seeing lots of issues regarding corrupt & lost websites.
I can only strongly recommend that you BACK UP your work.
Backing up should be a standard routine, yes even on a Mac
With regards to keeping a copy of your nice shiny new iWeb website, this thread discusses keeping a second copy on your hard drive. This will not save you if your hard drive fails, for this you need to backup elsewhere (For instance an external hard drive).
The key iWeb file (domain.sites) is stored here:
User / Library / Application Support / iWeb / domain.sites
Either manually create a copy of this site and save it somewhere safe, or use the Script above.
Happy iWebbing
Will
1GHz G4, 15" PowerBook, Airport Network, 1G iPod Mini Mac OS X (10.4.5) Getting Started with iWeb - Tips here

Wifi greyed out...yet another post about this.

One of a million posts about this same issue. I have iphone 4S with iOS 7. My phone has been going along just fine. On Sunday, I was on it, using wifi,
off and on all day long. Sunday night, my connection to it on my phone was acting a little weird (slow/not connect/or drop in signal). I tried turning my router/modem off and then rebooted thinking it was that. Still acting strange, so I turned my phone off, let it sit for a minute, then turned it back on as that has
worked before. Well, when I did that, now my wifi button is "greyed" out and can't be turned on. I've tried the reset network connection about 5 times----with airplane mode on, with airplane mode off, with cellular data on, with it off, etc etc etc. I won't do the hairdryer/refrigerator trick because I don't want to make it worse. I've had the phone about 14 months so it's clearly out of warranty and I'm not paying $200 to have it repaired. So now, it's no better than a flip phone as I can't use any apps without it going against my data usage. What a crock. I can't believe Apple, whom I've trusted and with the advice of friends, would put out
something that does this. Apparently this is not a new problem as I've seen others' posts about this happening with iOS 6. So any other solutions?

Oh I forgot to mention that on the Easy Access it says my wifi is on but at the top of the phone it still says 4G. So is it on or not?

Yet another post about problems with a Zen Mi

So the deal is everytime i try to put music onto my micro it says it's busy or not connected, but i know it is connected and i know my USB ports are fine, i can however make it work temporarily if i reformat it from recovery mode, but that of course deletes all my songs, im pretty sure i have the firmware i'm supposed to .....02.05..... but im not for sure, and also i did see on one of these threads that someone had bought a new usb cord and that fixed their problems, but i'd rather not waste the money if it wont fix it, any input would be very much appreciated

Well believe it or not, i did do my research and i looked through the FAQ and many many other posts about micro problems, and i know that the computer is not the problem, and for anyone who has made a similar post in the past and fixed the problem please let me know because on pretty much every thread i looked at the problem was not resolved, or at least not posted as resolved, but once again my main question is could it be the USB cord?

Yet another claim for footnotes

Dear Apple,
not trying to summarize the several previous discussions how to add footnotes (and ending with nothing substantial) I just would like to emphasize the need to include this into ibook authors if this program is intended seriously.
Hoping for further supporters and expecting an update
hwg_ros

If you wish to submit your request to Apple, you can do so here:
http://www.apple.com/feedback/

Daily Backup for Boot Camp partition

I'm looking for a Windows software to perform daily incremental backups from my Boot Camp partition to an external USB drive. It should also be possible to restore the COMPLETE Boot Camp partition from that backup in case of a hard drive failure. (It's NOT necessary that various versions of files are kept around-the-clock like Time Machine does. It's also not necessary that the backup itself is bootable.)
I've tried Genie TimelIne, but unfortunately it wasn't able to manage a complete restore. The taskbar was missing, no applications were installed (only present), settings were missing after the restore..., so I had to manually install nearly everything.
I've heard "Macrium Reflect" should be better. Is this true or does anyone have another good tip?
BTW I'm not looking for a solution to backup from the Boot Camp partition to the OS X partition and I don't want to create a complete clone every day.
Thanks for your help!

coxorange wrote:
A bit difficult to test such a software including worst case recovery if you can't dispense with the concerned computer temporarily. And VERY time-consuming!! Hence I asked for personal experiences.
Well, Anyone elses personal experience won't mean much to you unless they have the same setup as you, so asking others for personal experience is as much of a crap shoot for you as doing it yourself. I went through lots of testing several years ago on my first MacBook Pro, but almost none of that testing is valid for my current machine. With the variations in machines, and machine configurations, what works for someone else might not work for you, and what might work for you might not work for someone else. I learned this when I was testing Colnexzilla as a possible backup/cloning tool. It worked fine on my MacBook Pro, but wouldn't work properly for a number of other users.
coxorange wrote:
What do you mean I'm confusing?
I always wrote about the Boot Camp partition.
I agree that what you are asking for seems rather confusing. You talk about backing up your data on your Windows partition, and you talk about performing incremental backups. The WIndows 7 Data backup utility it perfect for tasks like that. It's when you start wanting to perform disk image backups, and then ontop of that perform incremental image backups of your Windows partition that things get challenging and confusing. Since you aren't clear about what scheme you want to use, it is hard to answer with a "clear answer" and not get confused by what you seem to be asking.
coxorange wrote:
As far as I know that's not enough to perform incremental backups including EVERYTHING on the Boot Camp partition.
If you use the Windows 7 data backup and perform incremental backups, you will have a backiup of all your data from the Windows partition. Isn't that want you want? If you want to perform a restore, it will not restore you back to a bootable drive, but it will have all your data and files backed up. If you want to perform a partition backup image, and make those backups incremental nightly, it might be possible. Since you are talking about a Boot Camp partition on a Mac here, you also need to clarify if you want this backup to run when teh system is booted into Windows, or when teh system is runnign MacOS, or ifit is acceptable to boot from yet another media for the backup purposes.
At this time, I'm not sure that any software exists which can make backup image of your Boot Camp/Windows partition when runnign MacOS that will make a backup image that cna restore to a bootable volume and can do incremental backups. There are few, if any backup tools that will run runder native Windows on your Boot Camp partition that will make an image file backup that can do incremental backups, and also allow you to restore to a bootable partition. I beleive that the Paragon software is one of the very few that can do this. I have tried and successfully made backupns and restores from backup disk images using custom boot drives for CloneZilla, and the Paragon Drive Backup tool. I don't believe that CloneZilla will do inremental backups, and I'm not sure about the Paragon software as I stopped using Boot Camp about 1.5 years ago when I upgraded to my current MacBook Pro. Now with this system, I don't run native Windows, I only run it virtualized using Parallels Desktop and VMWare Fusion. For both of those, I get a full system backup with each MacOS backup I take, since the Windows File System is virtualized and stored entirely in files on my MacOS partition.

Yet Another Soon to be MBP Owner in Need of Guidence

Hello all,
Believe it or not this is yet another post from a college student in the process of purchasing a new MBP who's appealing to the venerable Apple discussion board community for guidance. My dilemma is not that I can't decide on what MBP I want or what features I need, I've already decided on a top of the line model with the 7200 RPM hard drive and a Crucial ram upgrade, it's that I can't decide when would be the best time to make the purchase given the WWDC keynote on the 7th of August. I would like to get the most bang for my three grand but I need have the computer up and running by the twenty-first with Windows installed to run AutoCad. Would you recommend waiting until the 7th to order the computer and see it the MBP's are updated with the hope an updated MBP would be able to get to me in time or should I buy now with the knowledge that I'll be buying a computer that will be updated, but not outdated, soon?
Thanks for your time,
Eric
PowerBook 12-inch 867

I am also a college student... and I was going to wait for the new merom, but I decided against it... I just think the likelyhood of them released before september is unlikely in my head... but you never know... But I looked at it this way... I wanted a MBP bad, despite all the problems I heard about them (my mbp has no problems to this day).... I figured if I waited for the new releases, the only thing that would change is the fact that it's basically a new computer, and with new computers come with new problems... I also figured, the likelyhood of the computers being released before my school started was slim, so I bought it now. I am very happy with my MBP right now, and you have to think of it this way, there will always be upgrades, whos to say that after the merom has been released, something new will becoming after that... I find it less painful to buy a MBP in july, and have the meroms be released months later, then purchasing it in september, and having them be released a possible weeks later... a little less painful, but that's my input, do what you want, I have a 17" MBP , week 26, and I am a happy camper!

How can I associate 2 appleids with one account or use a different Appleid for imessage as described in another post?

How can I associate 2 appleids with one account or use a different Appleid for imessage as described in another post?
I have rejoined the iPhone community, not with one iPhone but with two. My wife agreed to move from the unenlightened!
I have set up both under my apple account and want to keep it that way. But I do not want iMessages going to both phones. I would like separate message queues but share all apps and other purches from the store.
I have created a separate AppleID for her but under Settings>Message>Receive At (it currently says 2 addresses) > ... will not allow me to change the current eMail address and when I add hers (her appleid) it errors out. The only thing I can do in the Apple ID field is to manage my account and not change it to hers.
How can I have 2 iPhones (and my iPad) on the same account but have separate identies?
Thanks,
LpGrumpy

1. Yes. Restart with the Option key held down as needed.
2. No, it won't be a problem.
(83373)

I'm going to another country for a year and I would like to unlock my phone to take another sim other than my carrier. My contract with my present carrier is finished yet they still wouldnt unlock the iphone 4 for me. How can I be able to unlock it?t

I'm going to another country for a year and I would like to unlock my phone to take another sim other than my carrier. My contract with my present carrier is finished yet they still wouldnt unlock the iphone 4 for me. How can I be able to unlock it?t

Only the carrier to whom the device is locked can unlock it.
If you do not meet their requirements or they do not offer unlocking there is no official way to unlock the device.
Who is your carrier?

YAIS - Yet Another Installation Script for Archlinux

I wrote this script today and placed it in AUR. It can show you the way and make it easier to install an archlinux system.

orschiro wrote:
https://aur.archlinux.org/packages/yais/
Can you provide some more information?
Your README is not very extensive:
yais
Yet another installation script (for archlinux)
I updated the README, and added a TODO to the git repo. I also rewrote the PKGBUILD. It will be OK now.

Yet another dead mic with Win7 64-bit upgrd - Portege M700

Title says it all. Mics used to work fine on this machine under Windows XP. Under Win7, except as I note below, the mic has inaudibly low volume with any Control Panel Sound settings. I've spent huge amounts of time trying to solve this. After seeing all the similar posts (with no solutions, it seems) from users of many different Toshiba laptops, I'm about to start spreading the meme across the Internet that Toshiba laptops can't use mics.
I started by upgrading to Win7 then adding just the 64-bit drivers I need from Toshiba's support site. No joy. Then I started from a clean Win7 upgrade (64-bit Home) using Toshiba's upgrade script. Nope. Installed latest generic drivers from Realtek. Hmm .. some progress, maybe: now with some Sound settings I can get slightly more volume but the mic input is drowned out by white noise-ish hissing. All right, disable any other sound sources I can adjust: disable Chicony webcam driver from Device Manager. Hmm, now mike volume can get fairly high but the hissing still drowns it out.
Toshiba: At some level, this is a problem between Microsoft and Realtek, I know. But you can help us. MS changed the audio model significantly since Win XP, including (god knows why!) giving up the little audio mixer app that used to let you adjust levels for different sound sources. And Realtek's generic driver doesn't provide one either. So just give us a way to adjust levels for different audio inputs! Maybe I haven't Googled sufficiently and some hacker out there has one, but I kinda doubt it ... if it requires driver-level access as I suspect, Microsoft's new DRM-motivated hammerlock limiting us to signed drivers prevents us from fixing this ourselves. (It also means we can't access our ext3 partitions without extreme measures, but that's another rant.) So CAN SOME TOSHIBA ENGINEER PLEASE LET MANAGEMENT KNOW THEY'RE ABOUT TO DESTROY THEIR LAPTOP FRANCHISE OVER AUDIO ISSUES? Just cut, paste, and forward a couple dozen of these threads. Sure, it's a career risk but (wo)man up to it! Audio really matters to laptop buyers nowadays ... without Skype, I'll have do carry Yet Another Device when I'm traveling. Heck, I've personally bought at least 6 Toshiba laptops over the years and I'm starting to shop for a replacement. Anything but Toshiba, I'm sorry to say :-(
Oh, in case somebody has an idea of something else I can try, the specific model is PPM70U-1KC01DB

Title says it all. Mics used to work fine on this machine under Windows XP. Under Win7, except as I note below, the mic has inaudibly low volume with any Control Panel Sound settings. I've spent huge amounts of time trying to solve this. After seeing all the similar posts (with no solutions, it seems) from users of many different Toshiba laptops, I'm about to start spreading the meme across the Internet that Toshiba laptops can't use mics.
I started by upgrading to Win7 then adding just the 64-bit drivers I need from Toshiba's support site. No joy. Then I started from a clean Win7 upgrade (64-bit Home) using Toshiba's upgrade script. Nope. Installed latest generic drivers from Realtek. Hmm .. some progress, maybe: now with some Sound settings I can get slightly more volume but the mic input is drowned out by white noise-ish hissing. All right, disable any other sound sources I can adjust: disable Chicony webcam driver from Device Manager. Hmm, now mike volume can get fairly high but the hissing still drowns it out.
Toshiba: At some level, this is a problem between Microsoft and Realtek, I know. But you can help us. MS changed the audio model significantly since Win XP, including (god knows why!) giving up the little audio mixer app that used to let you adjust levels for different sound sources. And Realtek's generic driver doesn't provide one either. So just give us a way to adjust levels for different audio inputs! Maybe I haven't Googled sufficiently and some hacker out there has one, but I kinda doubt it ... if it requires driver-level access as I suspect, Microsoft's new DRM-motivated hammerlock limiting us to signed drivers prevents us from fixing this ourselves. (It also means we can't access our ext3 partitions without extreme measures, but that's another rant.) So CAN SOME TOSHIBA ENGINEER PLEASE LET MANAGEMENT KNOW THEY'RE ABOUT TO DESTROY THEIR LAPTOP FRANCHISE OVER AUDIO ISSUES? Just cut, paste, and forward a couple dozen of these threads. Sure, it's a career risk but (wo)man up to it! Audio really matters to laptop buyers nowadays ... without Skype, I'll have do carry Yet Another Device when I'm traveling. Heck, I've personally bought at least 6 Toshiba laptops over the years and I'm starting to shop for a replacement. Anything but Toshiba, I'm sorry to say :-(
Oh, in case somebody has an idea of something else I can try, the specific model is PPM70U-1KC01DB

Maybe yet another posting for boot noises...

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