Yet another post about speed issues !

So had my infinity for more than 10wks now. Have been told time n time again by customer service, sales and technical help that I should get between 67 and 80 meg but after countless phone calls and apparent 'tweaks' at the exchange I'm still only getting 46 at best. Openreach engineer I spoke to in the street said it leaves the box in the street ( 2 short streets away ) at 80 so surely the problem is been m between the box and my house! Why don't they send someone to check this. One of the tech help dept even told me my line can only support 40meg and that I have been miss led over the speed! ! Though others have said I can get the higher speed. Another call back promised for today did not receive any call!
Think I'll be joining virgin when this year's contact is up, 10 months to go and counting, unless I can get out sooner for miss selling.

mushka wrote:
similar prob as me,, yet john46 keeps copying/pasting same stuff week in week out im sure he works for bt as every one has issues with speed etc and he posts same thing over and over
If it's a similar problem would you not expect a similar answer! The reason you are asked to perform speed tests etc is to try and establish where the problem may be.
As most people can not be bothered or do not search the forum before posting and perhaps finding the answer it is necessary for those people who give up their own time to try and help, to post the same thing time and time again.
I just hope that if you do have a problem it is not the same as somebody else may have had since you don't seem to want a cut and paste answer.

Similar Messages

Wifi greyed out...yet another post about this.

One of a million posts about this same issue. I have iphone 4S with iOS 7. My phone has been going along just fine. On Sunday, I was on it, using wifi,
off and on all day long. Sunday night, my connection to it on my phone was acting a little weird (slow/not connect/or drop in signal). I tried turning my router/modem off and then rebooted thinking it was that. Still acting strange, so I turned my phone off, let it sit for a minute, then turned it back on as that has
worked before. Well, when I did that, now my wifi button is "greyed" out and can't be turned on. I've tried the reset network connection about 5 times----with airplane mode on, with airplane mode off, with cellular data on, with it off, etc etc etc. I won't do the hairdryer/refrigerator trick because I don't want to make it worse. I've had the phone about 14 months so it's clearly out of warranty and I'm not paying $200 to have it repaired. So now, it's no better than a flip phone as I can't use any apps without it going against my data usage. What a crock. I can't believe Apple, whom I've trusted and with the advice of friends, would put out
something that does this. Apparently this is not a new problem as I've seen others' posts about this happening with iOS 6. So any other solutions?

Oh I forgot to mention that on the Easy Access it says my wifi is on but at the top of the phone it still says 4G. So is it on or not?

Yet another post about problems with a Zen Mi

So the deal is everytime i try to put music onto my micro it says it's busy or not connected, but i know it is connected and i know my USB ports are fine, i can however make it work temporarily if i reformat it from recovery mode, but that of course deletes all my songs, im pretty sure i have the firmware i'm supposed to .....02.05..... but im not for sure, and also i did see on one of these threads that someone had bought a new usb cord and that fixed their problems, but i'd rather not waste the money if it wont fix it, any input would be very much appreciated

Well believe it or not, i did do my research and i looked through the FAQ and many many other posts about micro problems, and i know that the computer is not the problem, and for anyone who has made a similar post in the past and fixed the problem please let me know because on pretty much every thread i looked at the problem was not resolved, or at least not posted as resolved, but once again my main question is could it be the USB cord?

Apple Deleted My Post About Antenna Issue

So Apple does not like me posting about the antenna issues in their support form. Sorry Apple you have lost me as a customer and all the business I bring to you, which is significant. Moving to Linux and Google Android.
Just so you know Apple you cannot teach arrogance, you either have it or you do not. And you my former friend have a big case of arrogance! Hope you read this.

Michael710 wrote:
So Apple does not like me posting about the antenna issues in their support form. Sorry Apple you have lost me as a customer and all the business I bring to you, which is significant. Moving to Linux and Google Android.
Just so you know Apple you cannot teach arrogance, you either have it or you do not. And you my former friend have a big case of arrogance! Hope you read this.
Apple DOES read these boards, carefully as a matter of fact- contrary to some posters. I'm with you. Apple has lost me. I'm returning my phone at the end of the 30-day period hoping for a recall in the interim.

Yet another question about super raid - GS70

Yes, another question about Super Raid...I recently picked up the cheapest model of the GS70 on newegg which comes with 1 mSata SSD...just a mediocre one if I remember reading correctly. I'm interested in using MSI's Super Raid once my warranty is over with and have been reading a couple posts here:
1. Walk through of how to reinstall OS
--> https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=167198.msg1224063#msg1224063
2. I'll need a Super Raid card with links to get some, for about $100 each
--> https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=171722.msg1252847#msg1252847
3. I can't get Super Raid unless it originally came with it?
--> https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=171185.msg1249640#msg1249640
So what's the bottom line? Would I still be able to enable super raid in the future or am I SOL since it didn't come with it originally?
thanks!

The GT70 CAN come with an adapter that has 2 (on the older, GT70 0NX models) or 3 (on newer GT70 20X models) sockets for mSATA drives. It's an optional part, that takes place of the primary SATA drive in the notebook, and physically has a different part that connects to the motherboard. If it doesn't come with the SuperRaid adapter, then it just has support for a single 2.5" SATA drive.
The GS70 on the otherhand, has this built into the motherboard and there is no swapping it out for a normal 2.5" SATA drive. You can only use mSATA drives (on those ports). The GS70 is meant to be an ultrabook, and therefore does not have the same ability as the GT70 to house up to 2 full size 2.5" SATA drives.
That's really the main difference here. Without physically seeing a GT70 to see how the SuperRaid adapter works, it's slightly difficult to explain.
But in the end, I wouldn't worry about the SuperRaid....The GS70 should have support for Intel Raid Management Engine, in which case that's all you really need.

Yet another one about key mapping

Oracle Forms 6i.
When I try to copy/paste/cut text with keyboard switched to Russian layout I got the message "FRM-41008: Undefined Function Key"
How can I change key mapping to use Russian keyboard layout as hotkey for coping/cutting/pasting?
How can I change mapping for copy/paste/cut function - what Forms function number?
Thank's

Hi sorry to hear about the issues your having there, i would recommend you contact the mods here: https://bt.custhelp.com/app/contact_email/c/4951
They are a special care team who are very good at getting issues resolved. It takes up to 3 days to get a response from them either by email or phone.
If you want to say thanks for a helpful answer, please click on the Ratings star on the left-hand side If the the reply answers your question then please mark as ’Mark as Accepted Solution

Yet Another quesstion about moving Time Machine backups

I have a NAS drive used to back up 3 Macs. In order to upgrade to a RAID drive, I need to reformat the existing drive (along with the new drive I'm adding to the enclosure) - but that would obviously lose the existing backups. I had planned to move them to another NAS drive that I have, reformat, then move them back.
All the discussions I've seen involve reformatting the target drive (which is not a Time Capsule, but a Buffalo NAS).
I can't do that, because I have lots of archive data (not backed up by time machine) on that disk I'll be using only temporarily.
So, how can I temporarily move the sparsebundle without buying yet another drive?

I recommend doing as I suggested. Cloning is the only correct way to backup a Time Machine backup drive. If you have data on the other drive you don't wish to lose then create a new partition on that drive. See the following:
To resize the drive do the following:
1. Open Disk Utility and select the drive entry (mfgr.'s ID and size) from the left side list.
2. Click on the Partition tab in the DU main window. You should see the graphical sizing window showing the existing partitions. A portion may appear as a blue rectangle representing the used space on a partition.
3. In the lower right corner of the sizing rectangle for each partition is a resizing gadget. Select it with the mouse and move the bottom of the rectangle upwards until you have reduced the existing partition enough to create the desired new volume's size. The space below the resized partition will appear gray. Click on the Apply button and wait until the process has completed. (Note: You can only make a partition smaller in order to create new free space.)
4. Click on the [+] button below the sizing window to add a new partition in the gray space you freed up. Give the new volume a name, if you wish, then click on the Apply button. Wait until the process has completed.
You should now have a new volume on the drive.
It would be wise to have a backup of your current system as resizing is not necessarily free of risk for data loss. Your drive must have sufficient contiguous free space for this process to work.

Yet another 3G battery charge issue/question

All...
Lately my iPhone 3G is draining it's battery much quicker than it had previously. It will not last a full day. Even with no Safari, games, music, etc. Also, when I charge it, it gets hot, more than usual.
Not sure, but I think this all started when I let the battery completely drain. I partially charged then the battery completely drained again.
I've reset shut the phone off then back on with no improvement. I've had the phone for less than a year. Apple replaced my 1st 3G with this phone due to another issue.
I'm going to let the battery completely drain then will completely charge to see if that helps. Otherwise, any ideas?
Message was edited by: Greg Begay

I am having the same problem. It barely makes it through 12 hours now, when previously I was used to about 36 hours. It has only started doing it recently, but I'm not entirely sure what I've done to provoke it.
Have seen similar issues in other threads, with people suggesting restoring/updating etc. I am yet to try this so will give it a go, but not convinced it will help.
Message was edited by: bigtom182

Yet Another MBP Airport Reception issue

My situation:
MBP 2.0 CoreDuo, 10.4.8, all updates and firmware applied.
On the same table, six feet (no obstructions) from an Apple Airport Express (not running Airtunes) and with no security enabled, the MBP will go from 0-2 bars while a MacBook and another MBP, each have 3-4 bars.
I have created a new user and tested, I have deleted the System Config folder, I have deleted and recreated the network prefs, checked for other wireless AP's, changed channels, and enabled/disabled interference robustness, with no effect.
The wild fluctuations are driving me crazy and I am really hoping this isn't a send in your MBP kind of problem.

I am in the same boat and I was able to circumvent this by setting the Linksys WRT54GS Router to 802.11b Only mode.
If I have it on a mixed mode or 802.11g Only mode then I get a weak and unstable signal. Setting it on 802.11b Only mode gives me full coverage around the house and excellent steady signal.
I know that I will not be getting the optimum speeds out of this setting however it beats router crashes and frequent disconnects due to weak signal.
Is there anything that I can do to get the 802.11g back with stable and strong signal? I have tried just about everything mentioned in these forums.
Do I just get another router? Is there a router out there working with a Macbook Pro Intel Core duo running on 10.4.8? AND using a Mixed mode or 802.11g Only mode? I am interested in hearing from you.

Yet another 3G to 1x issue

Duplicate discussion - please see:
3g to 1x
Message was edited by: Admin Moderator

I am having the same problem. It barely makes it through 12 hours now, when previously I was used to about 36 hours. It has only started doing it recently, but I'm not entirely sure what I've done to provoke it.
Have seen similar issues in other threads, with people suggesting restoring/updating etc. I am yet to try this so will give it a go, but not convinced it will help.
Message was edited by: bigtom182

Yet another (different?) battery issue

I have two batteries for my Powerbook, one I keep as a spare and which has only been used about half a dozen times.
Over recent months I have noticed that the original battery (and the unused one) seemed to take an increasingly long amount of time to recharge, but in the past few days it won't seem to recharge at all. The percentage of remaining charge on both batteries will only go down, with one currently at 25% and the other at 37% and no matter which battery I have installed, whenever I click on the battery menu, in the first line it says "10:00 until full"
I've tried all the suggestions that I've seen in responses to other battery issues, including resetting the PRAM both with the four key shortcut and using open firmware and reset-nvram and reset-all. I've also tried resetting the PMU by holding down the power key, until the long bleep and I've just tried the Powerbook G4 Battery Updater, but with both batteries I get the following message "Your battery was not updated. Make sure you have a battery properly installed and then try to update your battery again. Be sure to complete the update process for this battery before starting the update of another battery"
The information in the system profiler for each battery is as follows:
Original battery -
Charge Information:
Charge remaining (mAh): 861
Charging: Yes
Full charge capacity (mAh): 3508
Health Information:
Cycle count: 110
Battery Installed: Yes
Amperage (mA): 10
Voltage (mV): 11320
Relatively new battery -
Charge Information:
Charge remaining (mAh): 1621
Charging: Yes
Full charge capacity (mAh): 4381
Health Information:
Cycle count: 3
Battery Installed: Yes
Amperage (mA): 10
Voltage (mV): 11331
I notice there is a massive difference in the "Cycle Count" for the two batteries (110 and 3) although I haven't got a clue what this means.
Any advice or suggestions would be most welcome, as at present I am worried that eventually I will have run both batteries down and there will be no point in me purchasing a new one if my laptop cannot charge it for some reason.
As ever my utmost thanks in advance to anyone who takes the trouble to get back to me
Kind Regards
Bernard
PS. the charger info in System Profiler is as follows
AC Charger Information:
AC Charger (Watts): 50
Connected: Yes
Charging: Yes
Message was edited by: tdogb

Thanks a million for getting back to me Louie
The ring on the power socket is orange, suggesting that it is charging. However I didn't noticed the 50watts in my System Profiler details for the AC Charger. My Power Supply says that it is a 65w one with the correct model no. for this Powerbook (I think it says A1021 on it but I don't trust my eyesight at this time of night)
Both batteries do appear to be charging but incredibly slowly. For example I have been trying to charge up the battery all week and I had it up to 33% at one stage, before I neglected to plug the power chord in when I turned it on and it slipped back down to 22%. Three days later with it plugged into the power constantly (with me using the computer only during the day and putting it to sleep at night - should it charge when in sleep mode?), it's only crept back up to 30% again.
This battery could be knackered but I hardly have used my spare battery and even that won't seem to charge any quicker
I am also pretty certain that this incredibly slow charging is a recent problem, as I've had that power supply for some time (a year maybe) and I am sure that in the past the batteries have charged up at a more normal rate.
My power supply socket got a little knock recently when I tripped over the cable (as seems to be a common problem on the old non-magnetic sockets) and since then, with the connection not being nearly so snug, it happens quite frequently that I wake the computer from sleep and only realise that the plug is slightly out of the socket when the warning comes up that the laptop will put itself to sleep because the battery is low.
As a result, where previously I was always using the power supply with the battery fully charged and the light on the ring usually green, these days it seems to be permanently orange because I keep running the battery down and in recent weeks it will not seem to charge up because it takes so much time
I am guessing that I must've bought a moody power supply (I guess cheap is cheap, as they say) but I don't think it's the source of my problem because the issue has only manifested itself recently
Many thanks as always for taking the trouble to get back to me
Best Regards
Bernard

Maybe yet another posting for boot noises...

Each and every time I start or reboot my MacBook, I have to endure the harmony of two noises: the everything-is-OK chime, and the spin-up noise of the SuperDrive. I have wasted my time trying to disable them only in vain (
StartupSound Preference Pane did not work). One answer I found this Apple Support Communites was actually smash the SuperDrive (i.e., there is no way).
Why does Apple just give a simple option to disable them for the users who want to do so? It would just take one day to implement the option. I know like 99.9999% time it boots without a problem, why should I hear the chime? I do not use a DVD rom to boot (in fact, Lion does not even come on DVD), why cannot I just set the boot device order like with all other computers?
Yes, there are lots of Apple fans, but these kinds of inablity to customise the system waste lots of people's valuable time around the world, and make people want to use other OSes. Even if like 80% of the users do not care about the boot chime and boot spin-up noise, if an Apple engineer can spend one day and can save 20% the users around the world out of their misery, is this not enough?
P.S. : Yea, I will remove the SuperDrive next time I open up my MacBook.

No.
First, even if it is 2%, not 20%, the option could be easily implemented. 2% of MacBook users could be millions of people. As if one engineer could do so in 2~3 days. If that can benefit a million users, cannot this be justfiable?
Second, giving an option does NOT impact other people. If they are happy with the boot chime, they would NOT turn it off, and it does not make any difference if there is an option for that. If choosing not to boot from a DVD rom is an option (like in most laptops), it would make no difference to people who does not change the option. I know what I am doing, so just give me the options.
I am sorry if this forum is not suitable for my post. I did not want to order Apple to do something. I just wanted to share my feelings on these problems, with other users.
I know MacBook is great laptop. It is like 90 things out of 100 things are good, and 10 things are bad.
People who only talk about the 10 things are Apple-haters.
People who are just too facinated by the 90 things and cannot say no to the 10 things are iSheep.
People like I enjoy the 90 things but also criticise the 10 things so that those could be fixed.
red_menace wrote:
You pretty much hit it right there - Apple (or anyone else for that matter) isn't going to do anything for 20% of the users if it can impact the other 80%. The inability to customize these things also avoids wasting time with service calls, and it would certainly take more than a day to engineer a way to disable these things yet keep them functional - a power on self test won't do much good if you can't indicate the results, now would it? Some of those optical drives are a bit noisy, and not just at startup (later models are quieter), although that doesn't have anything to do with the machine trying to boot from it.
The appropriate place for these kinds of feature requests is http://www.apple.com/feedback/, since no one here can do anything about it.

RV042 WAN Slow (Yep, another post about this)

Hi,
I've searched and read other posts on this here and else where (via google) but cannot seem to resolve the situation.
To help save time I've compiled a list of various tests (including bypassing the RV042) and configuration options.
Tests (via DSL Reports) :
without RV042 (direct connection to T1) 1410 up / 1410 down
WITH RV042 1094 up / 763kb down
Hardware:
new Cisco RV042
Firmware Version: 1.3.12.19-tm
Internet Providers:
WAN 1: Covad T1 via Samsung iBG1000 T1 Router (NAT Disabled, RV042 has been assigned public IP Address)
WAN 2 (Failover): Atlantic BroadBand (via Surf Board Cable Modem)
RV042 Configuration:
MTU has been set to Auto, 1500, and 1492 (currently set to 1500) - speeds remain slow
SPI Enabled & Disabled - no change
Setting for Internet Port Speeds (also tried 1512 up for WAN 2 in case of GUI related error)
Interface
Upstream
(Kbit/Sec)
Downstream
(Kbit/Sec)
WAN1
WAN2
I think that about covers it, please let me know if there is any other info you need me to provide and thank you in advance for any help you can give.
- Jordan

Oh I forgot to mention that on the Easy Access it says my wifi is on but at the top of the phone it still says 4G. So is it on or not?

Yet another Z3C with WIFI issues...

Hello All, So I am not a newbie in the world of smartphones and today I have an issue with my Z3C which is affecting me since I bought it, not long time ago. The wifi, mostly every 10/20 minutes just stop to work. It show activity in Upload but no activity in Download. Which make me mad as I have a 50mbps internet connection that works perfectly with a Moto X, an Alcatel Idol 2 Mini S, a pletora of Laptops and Smart Devices, and one HP VoiceTab 6. All speedtests show me about 40/48mbps download speed, only the Z3C Download speed arrive to 30/40mbps then drastically goes to 2/5mbps 'til it drops to 0. Now, I tried everything, reset, factory reset, safe mode, different routers (I have 2 home and tried in different restaurants and offices), different sims, no sims at all.. it just don't work. So what I did is to use just LTE that it's of course fast and problemsless BUT why do I have to make happy my carrier when I can use the WIFI of home and office? Is Sony going to pay my plan?

Thommo wrote:
I'm not saying this is the reason but some routers have security and when performing speed tests get sent data which maybe deemed as Malware then the router will block connectivityAgree with you, I already tried it. Disabled firewall, security in general.. I made my routers also open gardens! Imagine... The curious part of that is the other devices works perfectly except the Z3C so cannot be the router or a security setting getting crazy with the Z3C and not with Moto X, Alcatel.. HP, Toshiba.. Samsung... and no, I don't want to think about racism and hate of dLink and Arris (Motorola) against Sony! No no..

Yet another question about burners for iDVD 6

It's not my intention to be redundant and the question about which DVD burners are compatible with the most recent release of iDVD has been asked a few times since iLife '06 was released at MacWorld last week. Yet, though Apple has announced it, why have they not posted a list of compatible devices?
Or, is the onus on the manufacturers to certify that their burners are compatible with iDVD 6?
In either case, has anyone determined if this information is available and, if so, where?
Thanks.

Or, is the onus on the manufacturers to certify that their burners are compatible with iDVD 6?
Check with the support sections of the manufacturer's websites - after all, THEY are the ones trying to sell burners.

Yet another post about speed issues !

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